25 foot coronado sailboat

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Coronado 25

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I would love some updates! In my quest to buy aboat, I gave up two deposits and then finally selected a Coronado 25 in fantastic shape, due to both condition and reported forgiving nature to a new sailor. Since you've had her for three years now, an update of your experiences would be wonderful. Also, does anyone know her bridge clearance requirements? Thanks!  

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i need 35' clearance. My mast is 30' and i know it is shorter than full keel version mast (mine is CB)  

I have the full keel version and also need 35'. There was a "Tall" option that you may be thinking of.  

i fond some data a few days ago(as i need new sails) and it sais that full keel mast taller  

Just went under a 35' bridge Saturday with a foot to spare.... not sure what to tell ya.  

measured my mast is about 29'.... would love to see full keel version mast spec(even rough) because i was thinking about getting taller mast  

It would seem I have the "Fin" Please let me know what you find!  

Does anyone hav hull number 1122 or 1736? We were original owners of 1122 and our friends owned 1736.  

I have recently purchased a 68' C-25. It is currently in Idaho and I will be traveling over there in late March or early April to pick it up. I got it from a longtime friend of mine for $1500.00. Boat includes a lot of little extras, motor, main, 2 jibs and a spinnaker. According to my friend, it has been well taken care of. Boat has been rewired, two of the winches upgraded to self-tailing, bottom done with 4 coats of antifouling. Didn’t hurt that it’s been in fresh water all this time. I would appreciate hearing from readers about upgrades and modifications to their Coronados. I will attempt to post some pics when I get the chance. Thanks!  

hi- i have a 25 ft 1969 coranado and was going to take it from FL TO MA IN april. some people say i cant do it in this boat. im going to do it anyways but was wondering if you had any advice about the boat  

... if thats what they tell you, they dont know much about boats.... that is a fairly solid little boat, and treated right, you should be able to go about where you please in it, providing your not considering the southern ocean:eek  

Is the fin keel encapsulated? I'm looking at one in light of my failed effort to acquire an Islander 28. There's one for sale and it looks clean. I'll see her Monday.  

No, it's a bolt-on keel.  

Being new to sailing (I just took classes in the past several months), this will be my first boat. Is it safe to say that there should be a fairly dry bilge, since this boat has an outboard? And would anyone recommend a survey for a boat thats in the $1k range?  

Old thread... But it is alive just like the old Butler 25's. The Solitaire is a '69 Hull from Portsmouth VA Hull# 1194 which we have refit and sailed from Deltaville Va to Boot Key Harbor Fl in the last year. So much for you can't get there from here... Eventual destination is back to Bocas del Toro Panama next year or two. Couple of sites anyone with, or thinking to buy a C-25. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Coronado25/info A yahoo group dedicated to Coronado 25 owners, and sailFar.net a site dedicated to "small boats, long distances". In addition you can head over to S/V Solitaire Sailing Off The Edge | Home to follow the past and future voyages of the Solitaire.... going where many have gone before. In my humble opinion, a solid little boat, cheap (cause there are so many still around) and sea worthy. With a few upgrades, they are worthy offshore boats as long as you are not hung up on the bigger-is-better syndrome. Remember Hugo Vihlen crossed the Atlantic in a 5'-4" sailboat. Of course he did say afterwords... "I don't know who named them swells. There is nothing swell about them. They should have named them awfuls"  

I am looking for a motor for a Coronado 25 and was wondering what people thought. I have never owned a boat so I could use some advice. I noticed in the picture above there was a 9.9 hp, but my Dad thought it might be too heavy for me to lift. Thoughts on motors?  

I raced on one back when they were new and we had a 8 hp two stroke in those days  

really think a new 6hp long shaft would be plenty for that boat. I remember the 8 hp being a much but not long shaft and it did not work good in chop  

The Outboard on a Coronado sits in a Well, and depending on installation, the propeller end may not clear the water if the Outboard is tilted up. (One nice thing about this setup is that a "Long-Shaft" version is not really needed, compared to something hung off the stern.) Mine had a Suzuki 9.9 2-Stroke fixed in place, and thus the lower end was largely Swiss Cheese when I bought it, due to Electrolysis. Even used 2-Strokes can be expensive, and installing one is certainly a two-person job. The mushy rule of thumb is that 1HP per 1000 Lbs. of Displacement is enough, for varying definitions of enough. The Coronado displaces ~4500 Lbs, so size one version up, unless the engine is being used for just getting in and out of Berth. New basic Mercury 4-Stroke 6HP outboards run around $1800. (West Marine.) They weigh around 60 Lbs., and should be reasonably tiltable. Note that the larger 9.9 Honda Cowling in the earlier pic barely fits... The Propeller will need to be sized to the Boat, and may involve experimentation. Cheaper outboards are Manual Pull-Start, and have no means of Charging a Battery. Electric Start is more expensive, and may have some, not much, Charging capability. Smaller Outboards often have Integral Fuel Tanks, but they don't have much range, and refueling a hot one that has run out of Gas, in Chop, in the dark, is more than a little dangerous here. So a larger External Tank is best. But if not used often, be aware that Gas goes bad pretty quickly. If using a 2-Stroke, oil must be mixed with the gas, and if left alone long enough, the oil and gas separates and bad chemistry happens. So, Cheapest is a used 2-Stroke, Pull-Start outboard of a few horsepower, a new fuel tank, fire extinguisher, a fitted Prop, and whatever hardware is needed to put it together. Think how the Batteries are charged, and figure in a Charger as well. A few hundred dollars. Expensive is a new Electric Start Outboard with Installation and wiring, because they don't just bolt in place. $3000 or more. The Coronado, while a bit homely, is a delightful boat to sail. If just puttering around in still waters, an engine isn't even needed. Just "Row" the tiller back and forth, and the boat will wiggle forwards at maybe half a knot, and it won't scare the ducks. ¬Erindipity  

Good day. We are scrapping a what appears to be a Coronado 25 Hull #557. It has everything here including rigging and mast, but the decks are completely rotted. If anyone is interested in parts, please give me a call. We are in Erie Michigan, 3 miles from Toledo, Ohio. All the Best, Bill Four One Nine Nine 0 Two Six 0 Two Three. I hate to see parts go to waist that somebody can use...  

Solitaire is a 69 Coranado 25 and we replaced the old Suzy 6 with a new Tohatsu Sailpro 6 before leaving Virginia in Dec of 2014 All the way to Boot Key Harbor Fl both inside and out with zero issues. 4 stroke has a bit of vibration due to single cyl but great gas consumption. (less than $250 VA to FL) Cowl size makes it a bit of a bear to get in and out of the lazarette, but it fits. Has the gear shift on the front rather than the side and enlarging the existing access port from the cockpit makes her easy to start and control. Can't tip her all the way out of the water, but ya can't have everything... Charging coil while low (5 amp at half throttle) is useful. Best $1400 I ever spent.  

I had hull 325. It was my first boat. Sailed well. I had purchased a cruising spinnaker for the Chesapeake Bay. We spent many weekends as well as weeks at a time on her; the Deja Vu. I had a 9.9 Evinrude. Very fond memories Ernest M Kraus sv Magic Kingdom a CSY 44 w/o cutter  

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• Sailboat Guide

Coronado 25 CB

Coronado 25 CB is a 25 ′ 0 ″ / 7.6 m monohull sailboat designed by Ed Edgar/Frank Butler and built by Coronado Yachts between 1966 and 1975.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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Coronado 25 - Cruising and Racing Sails

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