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Standing Rigging (or ‘Name That Stay’)

Published by rigworks on november 19, 2019.

Question: When your riggers talk about standing rigging, they often use terms I don’t recognize. Can you break it down for me?

From the Rigger: Let’s play ‘Name that Stay’…

Forestay (1 or HS) – The forestay, or headstay, connects the mast to the front (bow) of the boat and keeps your mast from falling aft.

• Your forestay can be full length (masthead to deck) or fractional (1/8 to 1/4 from the top of the mast to the deck).
• Inner forestays, including staysail stays, solent stays and baby stays, connect to the mast below the main forestay and to the deck aft of the main forestay. Inner forestays allow you to hoist small inner headsails and/or provide additional stability to your rig.

Backstay (2 or BS) – The backstay runs from the mast to the back of the boat (transom) and is often adjustable to control forestay tension and the shape of the sails.

• A backstay can be either continuous (direct from mast to transom) or it may split in the lower section (7) with “legs” that ‘V’ out to the edges of the transom.
• Backstays often have hydraulic or manual tensioners built into them to increase forestay tension and bend the mast, which flattens your mainsail.
• Running backstays can be removable, adjustable, and provide additional support and tuning usually on fractional rigs. They run to the outer edges of the transom and are adjusted with each tack. The windward running back is in tension and the leeward is eased so as not to interfere with the boom and sails.
• Checkstays, useful on fractional rigs with bendy masts, are attached well below the backstay and provide aft tension to the mid panels of the mast to reduce mast bend and provide stabilization to reduce the mast from pumping.

Shrouds – Shrouds support the mast from side to side. Shrouds are either continuous or discontinuous .

Continuous rigging, common in production sailboats, means that each shroud (except the lowers) is a continuous piece of material that connects to the mast at some point, passes through the spreaders without terminating, and continues to the deck. There may be a number of continuous shrouds on your boat ( see Figure 1 ).

• Cap shrouds (3) , sometimes called uppers, extend from masthead to the chainplates at the deck.
• Intermediate shrouds (4) extend from mid-mast panel to deck.
• Lower shrouds extend from below the spreader-base to the chainplates. Fore- (5) and Aft-Lowers (6) connect to the deck either forward or aft of the cap shroud.

Discontinuous rigging, common on high performance sailboats, is a series of shorter lengths that terminate in tip cups at each spreader. The diameter of the wire/rod can be reduced in the upper sections where loads are lighter, reducing overall weight. These independent sections are referred to as V# and D# ( see Figure 2 ). For example, V1 is the lowest vertical shroud that extends from the deck to the outer tip of the first spreader. D1 is the lowest diagonal shroud that extends from the deck to the mast at the base of the first spreader. The highest section that extends from the upper spreader to the mast head may be labeled either V# or D#.

A sailboat’s standing rigging is generally built from wire rope, rod, or occasionally a super-strong synthetic fibered rope such as Dyneema ® , carbon fiber, kevlar or PBO.

• 1×19 316 grade stainless steel Wire Rope (1 group of 19 wires, very stiff with low stretch) is standard on most sailboats. Wire rope is sized/priced by its diameter which varies from boat to boat, 3/16” through 1/2″ being the most common range.
• 1×19 Compact Strand or Dyform wire, a more expensive alternative, is used to increase strength, reduce stretch, and minimize diameter on high performance boats such as catamarans. It is also the best alternative when replacing rod with wire.
• Rod rigging offers lower stretch, longer life expectancy, and higher breaking strength than wire. Unlike wire rope, rod is defined by its breaking strength, usually ranging from -10 to -40 (approx. 10k to 40k breaking strength), rather than diameter. So, for example, we refer to 7/16” wire (diameter) vs. -10 Rod (breaking strength).
• Composite Rigging is a popular option for racing boats. It offers comparable breaking strengths to wire and rod with a significant reduction in weight and often lower stretch.

Are your eyes crossing yet? This is probably enough for now, but stay tuned for our next ‘Ask the Rigger’. We will continue this discussion with some of the fittings/connections/hardware associated with your standing rigging.

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The 7 Best Perch Rigs (Rigging & Fishing Guide)

UPDATED 03 NOVEMBER 2023

by Robert Ceran

While small perch are usually easy to catch (and abundant in most lakes), bigger perch over 1 to 2 pounds are much harder to target, and require more skill from the angler. 

But no matter if you want to catch your limit of panfish-sized perch, or if you want to hook a trophy perch or two, it’s essential to know what rigs to use for perch fishing, in order to improve your chances of success.

Table of Contents

Here I’ll cover the best perch rigs that you need to know. I’ll also discuss how to tie each of them, how to use them, and what purpose each of them is ideally suited for.

How do you rig for perch fishing?

The best perch fishing rigs are:

Slip bobber rig

• Drop shot rig

Carolina rig

Perch pounder rig.

Each of these perch rigs comes with its own set of strengths and weaknesses, and we’ll walk you through each of them below.

We’ll also give you a recommendation on what these perch fishing setups are best suited for, so you can decide which rig is best for you.

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This is by far the easiest perch rig to tie, and is usually worth trying out first, since it allows you to get a sense of what the fish are keyed into before you try more complex perch fishing setups.

How to tie it : If you’re using fluorocarbon or monofilament as your main line, you don’t need to tie a leader, and can just tie your main line directly to a 1/8 to 1/4 oz jig head (either plain metal, or a colored jig head is fine).

But if you’re using braid as your main line, you’ll need to tie a 2 foot long 6 to 8 lb test fluorocarbon leader. 

Berkley Power Minnow

My favorite soft plastic bait for perch, pre-rigged onto a jig head (2″ size is ideal for perch).

After tying the jig head to your line, thread on a soft plastic lure, such as a grub tail or paddle tail swimbait. Personally, I like to use Berkley power minnows with this rig, since they have the perfect action.

Another great thing about this perch fishing setup is that you can easily switch out the soft plastic lure to test different shapes, sizes, and colors. 

How to use it : As with all yellow perch rigs, you should aim to keep them very close to the bottom during retrieval.

So after casting your jig with a jigging rod , wait for it to reach the bottom before you start retrieving it, and regularly pause during retrieval to let it sink back to the bottom.

Experiment with different retrieval speeds and cadences, until you find something that triggers bites. 

When to use it : The jig rig is a great search bait, which you can use to cover a lot of water in search of feeding perch.

It’s also a great option if you’re not getting any bites on a live bait rig, or if you’re not sure if there are any fish around.

Keep on moving around until your find a school of fish, and then experiment with different baits and presentation techniques. 

This is one of the best perch rigs for live bait , and also one of the best setups to use from shore. I like to set up a deadstick with a  slip bobber rig, while casting a lure with my active rod.

How to tie it : It’s best to start by threading a bobber stopper onto your line, followed by a plastic bead (which prevents the bobber stop from getting stuck inside the bobber), and then the slip bobber.

Since perch don’t respond well to a lot of resistance when they take a bait, it’s best to use a relatively thin finesse bobber when fishing for perch.

Underneath the bobber, pinch on some split shot weights to stop the bobber from sliding down all the way, and then tie the line to a swivel.

Finally, tie a 6 to 8 lb test fluorocarbon leader to the swivel, and a size 2 to 4 bait hook (or micro jig head) to the other end of the leader.

How to use it : When using the slip bobber rig, it’s important to adjust your depth setting to about 6 inches above the bottom, since this is the primary strike zone for perch.

Once you’ve determined the right depth, bait the hook with a minnow or a worm, cast out your perch live bait rig, and wait for bites.

When to use it : This perch float rig is a great option to use from shore, since you can cast it out and wait for fish to pass by and take your bait.

You can also use this perch bait rig from a boat, but keep in mind that if you’re drifting, the depth of the bottom will tend to change all the time, which makes it harder to keep your bait presentation close to the bottom.

Drop shot rig for perch

The drop shot rig was originally developed as a finesse rig for bass, but has now become one of the most popular perch rigs, since it provides anglers with an amazingly sensitive and lightweight presentation that targets exactly the right depth of the water column.

How to tie it : Start by tying a size 2 to 6 drop shot hook to your line ( here’s a great video tutorial on how to do that). Next, clip on a 1/4 to 1/8 oz drop shot weight to the line underneath the hook, and then add a soft plastic bait to the hook, as shown in the image above.

One of the advantages of this perch rig setup is that you can adjust the position of the weight on the line, which allows you to easily change the depth of your bait presentation.

How to use it : Cast out your rig, and wait for the weight to sink to the bottom. Then use subtle movements of your rod tip to twitch the lure without actually lifting the weight off the bottom.

Do this for a couple of minutes in each spot before reeling in a few feet of line and repeating the process. 

When to use it : The drop shot rig is great when you’ve found a location with lots of fish, since it allows you to fish in one spot until you get a bite, without having to continuously retrieve the lure.

It’s also great because you can key in on a very specific depth where perch are active. 

While the ned rig superficially resembles the jig rig, it has a different and very characteristic action in the water, which makes it highly effective for catching perch.

How to tie it : Tie this perch rig the same way that you would tie a jig rig, but using a mushroom jig head instead of a regular round jig head.

Also, when choosing a soft plastic bait to use with the ned rig, it’s essential to choose one that is specifically designed for ned rigging, and that floats in the water. 

How to use it : Cast out the ned rig, and retrieve it slowly, pausing for a few seconds every time the ned rig reaches the bottom.

The distinguishing feature of the this yellow perch fishing rig is that the combination of using a mushroom jig head with a floating plastic bait results in its tail standing up straight every time you let the ned rig sink to the bottom.

Perch seem to find this action irresistible, and you’ll often experience getting bites when your jig is sitting on the bottom. 

When to use it : You can use this perch rig as a search bait setup, or you can use it on finicky fish that don’t respond to other presentations. It’s especially effective when the perch are pressured, and if they’re not used to seeing a ned rig.

The Carolina rig is one of the most versatile bottom fishing rigs in the world, and works well for a variety of species, including perch.

How to tie it : Thread a bullet sinker onto your main line, followed by a plastic bead, and then tie your line to a swivel. The plastic bead prevents the weight from getting stuck on the swivel, or damaging the knot.

Next, tie on a 1 to 2 foot fluoro leader, and they tie that to a size 2 to 4 worm hook , which is designed for weedless rigging of a soft plastic bait. You can choose from a wide variety of soft plastics, including minnow, shad or worm imitations. 

How to use it : Cast this perch rig setup out and wait for the weight to reach the bottom. Then give it another 10 to 20 seconds before reeling in a couple of feet, and pausing again.

Every time you pause this perch rig, the plastic bait (which doesn’t have any weight except the hook) sinks slowly down towards the bottom, and this is usually what triggers bites.

Perch bites on the Carolina rig can be quite subtle, so you really need to pay attention to soft taps or tugs. If you do feel a bite, reel in until you feel resistance, and then set the hook.

Braided line is the best choice as your main line for this perch rig, since it provides the most sensitivity in terms of being able to feel what’s going on with your hook and sinker.

When to use it : the Carolina rig is a great option for fishing from shore or from boat, and I like to use it when yellow perch aren’t responding to other presentations, since this rig can trigger bites from finicky pressured perch.

The perch pounder rig is ideal for vertical fishing from a boat, and works best in relatively deep water.

How to tie it : Use one piece of leader line to tie the entire rig. Since you don’t want the side arms of this perch rig to constantly get tangled up with the main line, it’s best to use a relatively heavy fluorocarbon line of about 15 to 20 lb test, which is quite stiff. 

Tie a loop in the leader line by folding a loop back on itself and then tying several overhand knots.

After pulling this tight, cut one of the arms of the loop, which results in a straight piece of line sticking out from the leader.

Thread one or two beads onto this line, and then tie on a size 4 to 8 bait hook. 

Next, repeat this process by tying a second loop about 8 inches below the first loop, and also add beads and a bait hook to this one.

Then cut off the leader line about 12 inches below the second hook, and tie it to a heavy 1 oz sinker.

In the last step, cut off the leader above the top hook, and tie it to a swivel, which you can use to tie it to your main line.

How to use it : The best way to use this perch rig is for vertical fishing from a boat in deep water of 50 feet or more, and it is one of the best rigs to target big perch in this kind of setting.

Bait the two hooks with live minnows (which is why this perch rig is also known as the ‘double minnow rig’), and lower the rig down to the bottom from your boat.

When you find a big school of yellow perch, it’s not uncommon to get double hook ups with this perch rig. 

When to use it : The perch pounder rig was originally developed for catching perch in deep water in the great lakes, where conventional setups don’t work so well.

However, it works just as well in any lakes that have deep water where big schools of perch like to hold, and since it’s designed for vertical fishing, it makes a great ice fishing rig for perch as well.

What is the best perch rig?

The best perch rig is the drop shot rig, since it is an ideal all-around setup for targeting perch with a lightweight lure or bait presentation close to the bottom.

Unlike bass, perch tend to require more finesse (especially in pressured lakes), which explains why the drop shot rig is so effective for catching them.

Another advantage of using a drop shot setup is that you can use this rig for both vertical fishing from a boat, or for casting from shore. 

With that being said, each of the perch rigs discussed above can be the best option to use in some circumstances. Also, keep in mind that the simplest rigs are the jig rig and the Ned rig, which are therefore great options to use as search baits to find schools of fish.

Once you find a good spot with a school of perch, you should then go on to experiment with the other perch rig setups, in order to find what rig works best for you.

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Wire Terminals

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• Hi-Mod Swageless Terminals
• Sta-Lok Swageless Terminals
• Swage Terminals

Wire Rigging Fittings

• Turnbuckle Components

Rigging Accessories

• Rigging Chafe Protection
• Headsail Reefing Furlers
• Plastimo Jib Reefing
• Selden Furlex Reefing Gear

Furling Systems

• Anti-torsion Stays
• Straight Luff Furlers
• Top Down Furlers

Guard Wires, Rails and Fittings

• Guard Rail Fittings
• Guard Rails in Fibre and Webbing
• Guard Wire Accessories
• Guard Wires

Standing Rigging Assistance

• Replacing your Furling Line

Fibre Rigging Break Load Comparison Guide

• More Articles and Guides >
• Cruising Halyards
• Performance Halyards
• Dinghy Halyards

Rigging Shackles

• Captive and Key Pin Shackles
• hamma™ Snap Shackles
• Soft Shackles
• Standard Snap Shackles
• Wichard Snap Shackles

Classic Ropes

• Classic Control Lines
• Classic Halyards
• Classic Sheets
• Cruising Sheets
• Performance Sheets
• Dinghy Sheets

Sail Handling

Boom brakes and preventers.

• Lazy Jack Sail Handling
• Rodkickers, Boomstruts
• Sail Handling Accessories

50 / 100 metre Rates - Running Rigging

• 50 / 100 metres - Cruising Ropes
• 50 / 100 metres - Dinghy Ropes
• 50 / 100 metres - Performance Ropes

Control Lines

• Cruising Control Lines
• Performance Control Lines
• Dinghy Control Lines
• Continuous Control Lines

Running Rigging Accessories

• Anti-Chafe Rope Protection
• Lashing, Lacing and Lanyards
• Mast and Boom Fittings
• Rope Stowage
• Sail Ties and Sail Stowage
• Shock Cord and Fittings
• LIROS Ropes
• Marlow Ropes

Running Rigging Resources

• Running Rigging Rope Fibres and Construction Explained
• How to Select a Suitable Halyard Rope
• How to select Sheets and Guys
• Dyneema Rope - Cruising and Racing Comparison
• Dinghy Rope Selection Guide
• Rope Measurement Information
• Running Rigging - LIROS Recommended Line Diameters
• Running Rigging Break Load Comparison Chart
• Colour Coding for Running Rigging
• Selecting the right type of block, plain, roller or ball bearing
• Recycling Rope
• Running Rigging Glossary

Plain Bearing Blocks

• Barton Blocks
• Harken Element Blocks
• Low Friction Rings
• Selden Yacht Blocks
• Wichard MXEvo Blocks
• Wooden Yacht Blocks

Control Systems

• Ratchet Blocks
• Stanchion Blocks and Fairleads
• Snatch Blocks
• Genoa Car Systems
• Traveller Systems
• Block and Tackle Purchase Systems

Ball Bearing Blocks

• Harken Ball Bearing Blocks
• Selden Ball Bearing Blocks

Roller Bearing Blocks

• Harken Black Magic Blocks
• Selden Roller Bearing Blocks

Deck Fittings

• Bungs and Hatches
• Bushes and Fairleads
• Deck Eyes, Straps and Hooks
• Pad Eyes, U Bolts and Eye Bolts
• Pintles and Gudgeons
• Tiller Extensions and Joints
• Harken Winches, Handles and Accessories
• Barton Winches, Snubbers and Winchers
• Lewmar Winches, Handles and Accessories
• Winch Servicing and Accessories

Clutches and Organisers

• Barton Clutches and Organisers
• Spinlock Clutches and Organisers
• Lewmar Clutches
• Harken Ball Bearing Cam Cleats
• Barton K Cam Cleats

Deck Hardware Support

• Blocks and Pulleys Selection Guide
• Barton High Load Eyes
• Dyneema Low Friction Rings Comparison
• Seldén Block Selection Guide
• Barton Track Selection Guide
• Barton Traveller Systems Selection Guide
• Harken Winch Selection Guide
• Karver Winch Comparison Chart
• Lewmar Winch Selection Guide - PDF
• Winch Servicing Guide

Sailing Flags

• Courtesy Flags
• Red Ensigns
• Blue Ensigns
• Signal Code Flags
• Flag Staffs and Sockets
• Flag Accessories
• Flag Making and Repair
• Webbing only
• Webbing Soft Shackles
• Webbing Restraint Straps
• Webbing Sail Ties
• Sail Sewing
• PROtect Tape

Fixings and Fastenings

• Screws, Bolts, Nuts and Washers
• Monel Rivets

Hatches and Portlights

• Lewmar Hatches
• Lewmar Portlights
• Fids and Tools
• Knives and Scissors

General Chandlery

• Carabiners and Hooks
• Antifouling

Flag Articles

• Flag Size Guide
• Bending and Hoisting Methods for Sailing Flags
• Courtesy Flags Identification, Labelling and Stowage
• Courtesy Flag Map
• Flag Etiquette and Information
• Glossary of Flag Terms and Parts of a Flag
• Making and Repairing Flags
• Signal Code Message Definitions

Other Chandlery Articles

• Anchorplait Splicing Instructions
• Antifoul Coverage Information
• Hawk Wind Indicator Selection Guide
• Petersen Stainless - Upset Forging Information
• Speedy Stitcher Sewing Instructions
• Thimble Dimensions and Compatible Shackles

Jackstays and Jacklines

• Webbing Jackstays
• Stainless Steel Wire Jackstay Lifelines
• Fibre Jackstay Lifelines
• Jackstay and Lifeline Accessories

Lifejackets

• Crewsaver Lifejackets
• Seago Lifejackets
• Spinlock Lifejackets
• Children's Life Jackets
• Buoyancy Aids

Floating Rope

• LIROS Multifilament White Polypropylene
• LIROS Yellow Floating Safety Rope

Guard Wires, Guardrails and Guardrail Webbing

Lifejacket accessories.

• Lifejacket Lights
• Lifejacket Rearming Kits
• Lifejacket Spray Hoods
• Safety Lines

Seago Liferafts

• Grab Bag Contents
• Grab Bags and Polybottles
• Liferaft Accessories
• Danbuoy Accessories
• Jimmy Green Danbuoys
• Jonbuoy Danbuoys
• Seago Danbuoys

Overboard Recovery

• Lifebuoy Accessories
• Purchase Systems
• Slings and Throwlines

Safety Accessories

• Fire Safety
• Sea Anchors and Drogues

Safety Resources

• Guard Wires - Inspection and Replacement Guidance
• Guard Wire Stud Terminal Dimensions
• Webbing Jackstays Guidance
• Webbing Jackstays - Custom Build Instructions
• Danbuoy Selection Guide
• Danbuoy Instructions - 3 piece Telescopic - Offshore
• Liferaft Selection Guide
• Liferaft Servicing
• Man Overboard Equipment - World Sailing Compliance
• Marine Safety Information Links
• Safety Marine Equipment List for UK Pleasure Vessels

Sailing Clothing

• Sailing Jackets
• Sailing Trousers
• Thermal Layers

Leisure Wear

• Accessories
• Rain Jackets
• Sweatshirts

Sailing Footwear

• Dinghy Boots and Shoes
• Sailing Wellies

Leisure Footwear

• Walking Shoes

Sailing Accessories

• Sailing Bags and Holdalls
• Sailing Gloves
• Sailing Kneepads

Clothing Clearance

Clothing guide.

• What to wear Sailing
• Helly Hansen Mens Jacket and Pant Size Guide
• Helly Hansen Womens Sailing Jacket and Pant Size Guide
• Lazy Jacks Mens and Womens Size Charts
• Musto Men's and Women's Size Charts
• Old Guys Rule Size Guide
• Sailing Gloves Size Guides
• Weird Fish Clothing Size Charts

The Jimmy Green Clothing Store

Lower Fore St, Beer, East Devon, EX12 3EG

• Adria Bandiere
• Anchor Marine
• Anchor Right
• August Race
• Barton Marine
• Blue Performance
• Brierley Lifting
• Brook International
• Brookes & Adams
• Captain Currey
• Chaineries Limousines
• Coastline Technology
• Colligo Marine
• Cyclops Marine
• Douglas Marine
• Ecoworks Marine
• Exposure OLAS
• Fire Safety Stick
• Fortress Marine Anchors
• Hawk Marine Products
• Helly Hansen
• International
• Jimmy Green Marine
• Maillon Rapide
• Mantus Marine
• Marling Leek
• Meridian Zero
• MF Catenificio
• Ocean Fenders
• Ocean Safety
• Old Guys Rule
• Petersen Stainless
• Polyform Norway
• PSP Marine Tape
• Sidermarine
• Stewart Manufacturing Inc
• Team McLube
• Technical Marine Supplies
• Titan Marine (CMP)
• Ultramarine
• Waterline Design
• William Hackett

Clearance August Race Boat Cleaning Kit £26.00

Clearance LIROS Racer Dyneema £55.08

Clearance Folding Stock Anchor £123.25

Clearance LIROS Herkules £0.00

Clearance Barton Size 0 Ball Bearing Blocks - 5mm £0.00

Clearance Marlow Blue Ocean® Doublebraid £18.48

Mooring Clearance

Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance, chain snubbing promotion, 10% off custom build chain snubbing strops and bridles.

Ends on Thursday July 18th

Solutions for Controlled Gybing and Gybe Prevention

Online Custom Build

Splicing, rigging and sewing service, easy, online export, our intuitive website excludes vat and calculates shipping options in the basket when you enter your export delivery address., shop by brand.

Ropes, Rigging and Safety

Ultra Anchor

AnchoRight Chain Markers - 8 Snooker Ball Colours Set

6mm flexible 7x19 stainless steel wire rope, marlow 3mm excel racing, profurl racing manual reefing system.

Harken Radial Winches

Special Offer Barton 32mm Genoa Car and Track Pack

£271.00 -30%

LIROS 14mm Green Wave 3 Strand Mooring Warps

Jimmy green marine chandlery.

We are a well established family concern offering Reliable, Continuous Service since 1981. We operate our online marine chandlery warehouse from our Splicing, Rigging and Sewing premises on The Meadows, Beer, East Devon supported by our clothing outlet in the main street.

We invite you to Shop Online for Ropes, Rigging, Safety Equipment and Marine Chandlery plus clothing and accessories for sailing and outdoor activities.

About us Environmental Mission Statement Knowledge Centre Beer Tide Times and Weather

Sta-Lok Rigging Terminal Fitting Instructions

Stainless steel wire rigging - custom build instructions, stainless steel wire break load comparison, wire rigging guide, why choose compacted strand for your standing rigging, colligo marine distributor dimensions, colligo marine terminator specifications, fibre rigging - custom build instructions, replacing your standing rigging - a step by step guide, how to identify and specify your standing rigging components, do it yourself standing rigging quotes, insulated 1x19 wire backstays.