force 5 sailboat trailer

• Force 5 Sailboat Trailering Instructions

Special bunk design required for the Force 5.

Do not trailer your Force 5 without adequate full-width support.

This is a high-performance hull that must be treated with care. Read these important trailering instructions to avoid damage.

• Damage will result if boat is trailered improperly.
• Check your trailer carefully.
• Never Trailer boat without first checking all lights, hitch seating on ball and security of safety chains.
• While Force 5 sailboats are designed and engineered for excellence in sailing performance, care must be taken to insure adequate hull support while trailering.
• Be careful to avoid extreme pressure on hull from bunks or rollers.
• Do not trailer with cockpit load of any kind.

Trailer Wiring Diagrams

4 Way Systems

4 way flat molded connectors allow basic hookup for three lighting functions; right turn signal / stop light (green), left turn signal / stop light (yellow), taillight / license / side marker (brown) and a ground (white).

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Trailex Model SUT-250-S Series Trailers  

All Aluminum, All Bolted Construction, All Adjustable

Trailer weight only 120 lbs Ships UPS, Capacity of 250 lbs, All aluminum, and requires only simple tools for assembly, comes complete with High Speed Wheels, Submersible taillights, locking web strap, safety chains & padded bunks. Never rusts, lightweight and maintenance-free

  Applications

Model SUT-250-S will carry a single Sailboat up to 14'-6" long and 250 lbs

Will adapt to most small sailboats, including, but not limited to:

Escape Sailboat

Force 5 Sailboat

MXRay Sailboat

Megabyte Sailboat

Sunchaser I & II Sailboat

Zuma Sailboat

For longer boats, such as Vanguard 15, see Model SUT-500-S

Click Here for Frequently Asked Questions

Trailex SUT-250M-2 Trailer Video

Trailex SUT-250M-2 Trailer at Paddle Sports Show

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• Sailboat Guide

1983 Force 5 AMF

• Description

Seller's Description

Force 5 AMF, 1983 sailboat for sale Price $1100

13’10” Force 5, 1983 with Galvanized Trailer Smithfield, Virginia

Great Single Handed Force 5 sailboat and galvanized trailer.Length Over All (LOA) 13’10” Beam 4’10” Displacement 145 pounds Sail Area (Standard Rig) 91 square feet Draft 3” board up 3’2” board down

Like a Laser but with all the go fast controls like Boom vang, center traveler, downhaul, outhaul and more sail area.

All lines have jam cleats for ease of handling. An easy boat to sail and very exciting on a full plane. Newer sail used 2 seasons. or phone 757 284-seven-three-five-three

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

The FORCE 5 was designed in 1972 by Fred Scott and Jack Evans of AMF Alcort. By 1974 it was their second best selling boat. Over 12,000 boats were built up until 1989 when AMF Alcort changed hands several times in a short period of time. In 1993, Weeks Yacht Yard became the new builders of the FORCE 5.

This listing is presented by SailingTexas.com . Visit their website for more information or to contact the seller.

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Should I buy a Force 5?

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SailNet Pals: I just joined your community, and it looks like a great resource. Here is my current situation for which I would love some advice: I currently own a 1982 Sailnetics FJ. This boat is a nice boat, but it is not very convenient. Amazingly enough, it requires two to step the mast. I can get the mast into the position, but cannot attach the shrouds and forestay by myself. It is a long story, but suffice it to say, I can't do it myself. Also, the boat is not comfortable for the passenger because of the seat design and line placements. My wife is not comfortable in the boat, and is not that crazy about being in a tippy boat. So, I'm thinking of selling it and getting something a bit smaller that I can handle myself easily, but could occasionally take a passenger. There is a Force 5 for sale here locally that might be nice. I have read some reviews, and it is hard to tell if this boat is easy to rig and sail. I don't plan to race it. I might occasionally want to take a passenger such as a child, or possibly another adult who doesn't mind getting wet. Is this boat a good choice?  

My son has one and it's a great little boat (the price was right) It's easy to rig and the cockpit is large enough for two people. He thoroughly enjoys sailing it  

The Force 5 was introduced by AMF/Alcort in response to the Laser. Very similar to the laser and very fun. Certainly a good boat to have. I liked the mid-boom sheeting on the Force 5, which seems better to me than the arrangement on the Laser. I think the Force 5 is just a bit slower than the Laser, but still plenty fast. You would have a much harder time trying to find any one-design racing on a Force 5. But overall, Sure a great boat! David  

OK, it sounds like this is a good boat. Is it fairly easy to slip the sail over such a long mast? Also, there will be times when I want to leave the boat at a dock or mooring for a few days. Since the boat has no main halyard set up, what do you do with the sail? Can it be furled around the main and tied? Or do I have to take it down each time?  

The sail slips on the mast easily on land (meaning you, not necessarily the boat) It would be pretty tough/impossible to do that if you were standing on the boat while it was floating at a mooring! So, yes, if you are planning on keeping the boat on a mooring, you'd have to take the mast, boom, and sail off first. Really, though, that size of boat is best kept ashore. Don't be shy if you have more questions... David  

Interesting. OK, I am a 48 year old 170 pound guy. Could I get a kid, or another adult in this boat on occasion if I want to? From the pictures of the hull it looks like there is room in front of the thwart seat for another person. I just wonder if it would be comfortable in that spot?  

Good question.. Sorry I was too lazy to bring it up myself.. At 175 lbs, you are the perfect weight for the boat solo. I have had Lasers out in lots of wind, with a crew member that size, and myself at around 150. No problem as long as you are able to move fast during tacking, etc. I used to sail Lasers with my Dad, who weighed about 160, and myself at 80 - 100 lbs. No problem, as long as you position yourself carefully/quickly. So, in summary, no, two people on a Laser/Force 5 isn't a problem, as long as everyone likes each other and can move quickly. If you're looking for a boat to take more than one other person, or someone who is badly out of shape, then you are looking at the wrong boat. You will learn amazingly fast on the Force 5, as long as you don't mind getting wet! David  

I have heard the Force 5 described as "A Laser for grownups". I keep my boat at the yard that is now the manufacturer for the Force 5. See WEEKS YACHT YARD.COM . I can testify that they do good and conscientious work.  

This is very useful advice. I am at cross purposes since the main problem with my current boat is I can't easily single hand it for a variety of reasons. Now, I could get a bigger boat that I can handle myself, such as a Lido 14, or a Catalina 16.5, but part of my problem is finding somebody in my family who wants to sail. So the thought of having a smaller boat that I can handle myself on a moments notice is the idea, but with the possibility of bringing another sailor along occasionally. So, this boat could be the ticket. I haven't seen the one locally here for sale, and won't be able to see it until tomorrow, so this could all be moot if the boat is too much of a project. I don't mind replacing rigging and blocks etc. myself, but if the hull has problems, or the trailer is a mess, then that could be the deal breaker.  

I agree with your thinking.. I have sailed Lido 14s.. Nice boats! But, certainly you could singlehand it. The Force 5 would meet your needs a bit better, I think, if you are primarily going to singlehand it, the Force 5 (or a Laser, for that manner, as they are essentially equivalents, except for the reasons noted above) Will be lots more fun. The boat is probably not a good buy if it has any major problems, as you said. Remember that you are paying "new" prices for anything you have to replace! David  

Well, if the basics of the boat are good, I don't mind replacing lines and blocks as needed. But if the hull has problems, I don't know how to do fiberglass work at all.  

Yep... I'll bet your lines and blocks are fine. On a Laser, a typical hull problem was leaking at the daggerboard trunk. Don't know about the Force 5...  

What I read about the Force 5 is that the older ones leak at the autobailer spot. There is a double hull there, and for some reason they were not sealed that well in the hull with epoxy. The Force 5 website has a whole article on how to fix it yourself which doesn't look that bad. We'll see how this boat looks. Part of my problem isn't just the boat. I tend to trailer fairly far at times, and I want a decent trailer. I am willing to do some work to the trailer, such as rewire it and repack the bearings, but if the trailer is otherwise a mess, that can be a problem. New trailers are darn expensive.  

I've had three Lasers, and cartopped two of them. A pain, but you can do it.  

dndrich said: Yeah, but I really want to avoid that. I plan to single hand it, and lifting a 145 pound boat onto the top of my Honda just won't work for me! So, a trailer is a must. Doesn't have to be pretty, but solid. Click to expand...

I owned and raced a Force Five for many years. I won't repeat much of what others have commented upon as it is mostly accurate. I thought the boat was great but want to mention a couple of additional points. First, the boat is definetely slower than a Laser notwithstanding the larger sail plan of the Force Five. Second, the larger sail plan made the Force Five a bit to handle for a lightweight like myself in a breeze (I'm about 155 lbs). Of course, in a breeze, someone my weight also struggles with a Laser. Third, and related to the second point, putting the mast up in a breeze by yourself can be somewhat of a struggle. Mike s/v Liberty Tartan 34C  

Very useful information. How would you say this boat compares to say, a Zuma or a Hobie Holder 12? Or a Pico? The only thing I don't like about the boats that use a sleeve sail is that it is sure nice to raise a mast, and then raise the sail with a halyard. Also makes it possible to drop the sail while still in the water, such as at a dock or mooring.  

Yep.. The sleeve type sail is a pain... Simple and efficient, but not a s easy to raise/lower.  

last year i had a laser pico which i loved that sounds like would fit your needs perfectly. it is a simple boat that is easily singlehanded with just the main or the main and jib. its slow and the jib doesnt help much, but the second person will feel useful, while having fun. it also has a plastic hull that is indistructable. good luck. -kai  

The Laser Pico or Vanguard Zuma would truly meet my needs. Trouble is, I never see one of these for sale used in my area. So I would have to buy a new one. The Pico would be about $4000 with a trailer, and the Zuma would be closer to $5000 with a trailer. Now, I would have a hard time getting that one past the wife for my toy! But those boats would truly fit the bill for me I think. The Force 5 is available, and I would consider it because if it would work, it is much less money since it is used.  

have you checked craigslist? pico's are rare but zumas are fairly common. they are also not very expensive for a very nice one. ive seen some barely used zumas go for $1000. -kai  

I live in Sebastopol, near San Francisco. I check craigslist every day. I have never seen a zuma for sale here once! Bummer.  

Well if you just moved to MA you would beable to find one. think about it. haha.  

Force 5 OK, I looked at the boat today at the only local sailboat shop here in Sonoma County. The owners are very nice. The boat has been sitting there for years, and shows it. They want $1500 for it with a beat up trailer. The boat will need some work, but not a ton. I will have to take the wood work off and clean and oil. I will have to buff and polish the hull and deck as it is heavily oxidized. The running rigging is in good shape with nice Harken hardware. I will have to take the lines off and soak in Woolite. The tanks were full of water. I suspect the auto bailer, which is apparently a problem in these boats. That should be a reasonably easy fix. He has to find the sail and blades. I suspect they will look fairly old, but who knows. This seems like a very steep price for this boat. If I remain interested, I would offer maybe $1000. Even that might be high. There is a local sail maker that could possibly convert the sail into a zipper style, and then I could attach a fairlead to the top of the mast, and raise the sail with a halyard rather than the sock style. I dunno. Looks like a project. But in this price range I don't think there are too many gems.  

dndrich said: OK, I looked at the boat today at the only local sailboat shop here in Sonoma County. The owners are very nice. The boat has been sitting there for years, and shows it. They want $1500 for it with a beat up trailer. The boat will need some work, but not a ton. I will have to take the wood work off and clean and oil. I will have to buff and polish the hull and deck as it is heavily oxidized. The running rigging is in good shape with nice Harken hardware. I will have to take the lines off and soak in Woolite. The tanks were full of water. I suspect the auto bailer, which is apparently a problem in these boats. That should be a reasonably easy fix. He has to find the sail and blades. I suspect they will look fairly old, but who knows. This seems like a very steep price for this boat. If I remain interested, I would offer maybe $1000. Even that might be high. Click to expand...

dndrich said: There is a local sail maker that could possibly convert the sail into a zipper style, and then I could attach a fairlead to the top of the mast, and raise the sail with a halyard rather than the sock style. Click to expand...

i say dont rush it. the price sounds a little to much. you'll find the right one. -kai  

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1976 Force 5 14 Boonton, New Jersey, United States

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• Force 5 Sailboat Trailer

Force 5 Sailboat Trailer Boats for sale

Irwin 65' Ketch Sailboat - great fiberglass liveaboard or cruising yacht

Emeryville, California

Posted Over 1 Month

Please read the add completely before responding. This boat has a lot of potential but, IT NEEDS WORK! Boat is currently located in San Francisco, CA and for sale for a limited time only. I'm just putting feelers out there to see what the possibilities are for selling this boat by the end of the month. So, if you don't have cash and aren't in a position to close a sale within the next couple weeks please don't waste either of our time. The good, the engine was replaced about 5 years ago with a brand new Perkins 130hp 6-354. It had extensive upgrades made within the last couple years including a new hydraulic autopilot, raymarine radar and color chart plotter, new main breaker panel, most interior lights have been replaced, it has 3-210 watt solar panels, new bilge pumps, new batteries and inverter/charger, new vhf, stereo and speakers, new force 10 propane range, new fresh water pump and holding tank with macerator, new anchor & rhode and 11'6" RIB. I put the hard dodger/pilot house on last year, it is actually only half finished based on my intentions but it is 100% waterproof and serviceable as it is. It is plywood with fiberglass inside and out, I had intended on putting another layer of plywood and fiberglass on the outside. The bad, it has been neglected over the years and the former owner let it get away from him. There is some soft wood in the interior some of which has been removed as I started to replace it and insulate the boat better. The exterior paint is faded with some scuffs and needs to be repainted, the sails are serviceable but the main is undersized as it was bought used, there are also a few soft spots in the core of the aft deck. That being said I sailed the boat 7000 miles 2 years ago from South Carolina through the Panama Canal and up the West Coast to San Francisco and then another 2000 miles up to Seattle and back with few issues. If you want to get more details and the specs I would recommend visiting Yachtworld.com and search for Irwin 65's the specs are all pretty much the same. This boat does have an 8'-8'6" draft as it has the blue water keel configuration. The boat sails great and is very fast. I would possibly consider a partial trade (up to 50% of sale price) for a smaller ocean worthy sailboat in the 35' to 50' range, it needs to be in pretty good shape as I don't have a lot of time to put into it. I would also consider these specific smaller boats, a flicka 20 or dana 24. A diesel pusher motor home or diesel pickup and fifth wheel trailer combination. I will absolutely not deal with any brokers, so brokers please don't waste mine or your time. I hate to sell this boat as it is my dream boat and I had big plans for it but my life has changed and I don't have the time to put into it. If you are serious and want a big boat at a great price, have your cash ready and let's talk. I would also consider delivering it anywhere on the west coast for the right offer.

2016 HUTCHINS Compac Legacy

Nevada City, California

Make HUTCHINS

Model Compac Legacy

Category Sloop Sailboats

2016 HUTCHINS Compac Legacy 2016 Compac Legacy 16.5 Sailboat, like new (used 3 times in fresh water), LOA 16.5 Feet, Loaded, Breakneck Trailer, Fits in Standard Garage, New 3.5 HP Merc. 4 Stroke motor, Health Issues force Sale

2008 Eastern Boats 22 Lobsterman

Westbrook, Connecticut

class="btn btn-large visible-phone" href="#EmbeddedContactForm" data-toggle="modal">Contact Seller 2008 Eastern 22 Lobster Fisherman Westbrook, CT - 180 hours. - One owner Eastern 22 Lobster Fisherman. Boat is in the water at our dock in Westbrook, CT. Boat was a left over brand New Boat purchased new from a Lake Ontario dealer in April 2012. Boat had 12 freshwater hours on motor when purchased in 2012. New boat and 5 year Honda warranty in force until 2017. Boat has been meticulously maintained by owner and professionally winterized and serviced each year by Westbrook, CT Honda Dealer. This is Eastern Boats' most popular model. The 22's hard chine provides a stable platform while its deep-v bow and 7 degree stern lets her handle a rough sea while requiring low horsepower to move her along. Extremely economical Honda 135hp EFI 4 stroke outboard with only 180 hours sips fuel at 2.5 GPH / 3500 RPM / 18 mph. Bottom was prepped (April 2012) with an epoxy barrier coat and 2 coats of Pettit Vivid antifouling paint were applied. Bottom painted again with Pettit Vivid in spring 2014. Also includes fold down rear facing jump seats, Sailboat style cockpit safety rails, Cockpit hoist, dinghy motor rail mount, Garmin 541, fixed mount VHF and a Magic-Tilt dual axel roll-on trailer. The trailer has never been in the water. (We use the marina lift to launch and retrieve boat.) This boat is immaculate. Growing family requires owner to move up to a larger Eastern model. ------------------------------- 2008 Eastern Boats Eastern 22 Lobster Standard Features: ~~ Navigation Lights, Stainless Steel Hardware, Black Rub Rail, Spray Rails, Stainless Steel Bow Eye, Boot Stripe, Self-Bailing, Non-Skid Fishing Deck, Inspection Deck Plates, upgraded (ball type) Scuppers, 52 Gallon Fuel Tank, Fuel Filter & Water Separator, 12V Switch Panel, Sport Console, Wiring for Battery Under Console, Electric Bilge Pump & Auto Float, Sport Console Windshield, Stainless Steel Windshield Rail, Flush Mounted Stainless Steel Rod Holders (pair), Glassed in Mounting Blocks on Each Side, V-Berth bunk and Seating, Hydraulic Steering, 12 Volt Accessory Plug, Compass, 20x20 Cabin Hatch, Hawse Pipes, Seat Boxes w/ Swivel Pedestal Seats, flip down rear seats, Stainless Steel Bow Rail, Anchor Roller, Deck Pipe, Side Curtains, Aft Curtain, V-Berth Cushions, 2008 Honda 135 HP EFI 4 Stroke outboard w/ 180 hours** $36,000.00 or best REASONABLE offer, 860-729-5200

27'7 Sun Yacht Sloop 1978

Glover, Vermont

Call Boat Owner Thurmond 802-525-3386. Basic Decription: Classic sailboat, designed by award winning designer Robert Perry. Teak interior. Custom trailer and cradle built in 2006. 1978: 27 foot Fixed Keel Sloop with fiberglass hull designed by Robert Perry. Custom 2006 PJ trailer with pintle hitch, with steel cradle. Plus 2 heavy duty rachet strap tiedowns Manufactured by Sun Yachts of Washington. Rising Sun; Always used in fresh water but made for ocean sailing. OMC Gas Inboard Zephyr Sail Drive, 15 HP, two cylinder, two cycle 50:1 mix. 16 gallon inboard gas tank. Length 27.5 feet; Beam 9 feet; Draft (fixed fin keel) 4 feet 4 inches. Teak interior with newly upholstered cushions: sleeps 5 with two double berths. Teak rails and fittings topside. Head: sink and RV chemical toilet. Galley: double compartmented ice chest, Princess alcohol stove with two burners, sink with hand pump; kitchen utensils; horizontal dish rack; 5 galley cabinets; two utility drawers and towel rack with indirect lighting; dining area comfortably seats 4 adults. Marine barbecue propane cooker by Force 10, model 83730; with propane tank. Complete set of sails plus 150% Genoa. Two Danforth anchors. Depth and fish Finder. 6 life jackets. Safety main switch for batteries. Two deep cycle batteries in very good condition purchased in 2005; they take a full charge. 12 Gallon plastic potable water tank. New Compass. Windex; 5 bumpers; ropes; boat pole. Carpeted and well lighted cabin. Offset hatch with bridge deck. Forward transparent hatch. Unopened gallon of bottom paint. Two R and W nylon 3-STD mooring pendants 3/4" by 20 feet purchased 2009.

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

El Cajon, California

We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.

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Why did the bunk breach my hull?

• Thread starter SteveNaz
• Start date Aug 23, 2015
• Aug 23, 2015

There's a variety of possibilities - ranging from a rotten interior structure, to strapping it down waaaaay too tight. However......that photograph l ooks like an impact to me. You can see the paint is pushed in there.  

Scott Danforth

Grumpy vintage moderator still playing with boats.

Take a photo from a few feet back  

smokeonthewater

Fleet admiral.

sounds like you have covered the likely causes except for thin carpet... the carpet wouldn't cause it.. generally assuming it's not rot in the hull (and I'm guessing there's nothing to rot in it) this would be caused by not properly supporting the hull.... as you said jamming in.... and or strapping much too tight. if padding is needed closed cell pipe insulation would work well.. I hauled a 20+ year old sunfish on the roof rack of my jeep 1000 miles at 70-80 mph with only some pipe insulation and ratchet straps without issue.... dunno how the structure of your boat compares to a sunfish tho.  

Supreme Mariner

smokeonthewater said: dunno how the structure of your boat compares to a sunfish tho. Click to expand...

• Aug 24, 2015

FWIW - a Force 5 is similar to a Sunfish or a Laser. Anyway, no internal structure of the hull to speak of, just 3/16" (ish) fiberglass. The hull puncture was probably caused by a pressure point, presumably at the end of the bunk and the hull bounced up and down on that point until it weakened and fractured. This can be caused by strapping the boat from the bow and stern, which would be beyond the length of the bunks, making the end of the bunks a pressure point. Usually, sailboat bunks are made to curve with the shape of the hull in order to avoid this sort of thing. When I strap my Sunfish to a bunk trailer, I usually strap it near the middle of its length as well as at the bow and stern so that I am not replying on too much holding force at the ends of the boat. Can you post a few pictures of the boat/trailer setup and how you fasten it down?  

Petty Officer 2nd Class

What weight is the trailer rated for? If the trailer wasn't made for a dinghy, the springs may be so stiff that it effectively has no suspension at all. I have seen unloaded trailers bounce up and down violently and could imagine a the damage it would do to a delicate hull resting on it. Many of the laser trailers support the boat at the gunnels instead of the hull. I don't have one of the fancy purpose built trailers so I haul my laser upside down on its deck is laying across two flat bunks the same way you would support it on roof racks. The biggest downside to this set up is not being able to put the spars on top of the boat. Your damage does look like some road debris may have hit it, was this area resting on your bunk or does the boat sit on the trailer just like it is in your photo? You are probably doing to need to put an access port above the hull puncture so you can patch it from both sides.  

Thank you for all the great feedback. I will try to start at the top. Yes pclkeen there have been some impacts, if you consider hard bounces the like the time my wife gunned it pulling off the ramp and bounced the whole trailer in the air over a bump she forgot about. I sailed one time after that incident with no problem, but the damage may have already started. As for really tight straps, it?s a possibility. I am seriously hoping someone can post some guidance on that topic. My rule of thumb for next time may be to actually put my thumb under each strap and tighten until it starts to feel uncomfortable. The photo above shows another view of the damage from a few feet back. You can see a loosened strap and the boat is pushed aft from the bunk to reveal the damage. (The mast pieces normally ride on a wooden cutout, not directly on the deck!). It also shows a 2-piece leaf spring. The wheels are 12?. Yes, the Force 5 structure is pretty close to a sunfish, almost identical to a Laser. That?s a deck overtop of the hull with lots of volume to take on many gallons of water in-between. My boat is a 1978 by AMF, before ALCORT, and long before Weeks Yachts bought the brand. The other pic is a stock photo that happens to show the little wings rising from the aft bunk. Those wings dictate where the boat should sit, and apparently can make pressure points if you get it wrong. Today I cut the little suckers off (good riddance!) and put an inch of rubber mat over both bunks. I followed the template which was supposed to be a perfect match to the hull, but I probably trailered the boat one or two inches too far forward so a slightly fatter part of the hull sat between the wings. I can post a better picture of the trailer setup tomorrow morning, But you will see the bunks are now covered with fat cushioning, not just carpet. Tpenfield, I wonder about the dynamic loading, since the boat is a few inches wider than the trailer frame and the bunks. I figured the best support would be to put a strap right over each bunk and an extra one in the middle. Granted, they all may have been too tight. Mr. gddavid, I worry that you may be right about the springs being so stiff that I have no suspension. That?s exactly what it feels like sometimes. I have to wonder if it would be advisable (or possible) to remove the shorter spring leaf from each side. And yes, I did slide the boat back to show the damage that occurred over the bunk. Of course, the most frightening thing by far is the suggestion that an access port may be necessary to patch the hole from both sides. Forgive my ignorance, but what happens if I just try to build up the 3/16 inch of fiberglass from the outside and then resolve to never place the repair directly over a bunk? I saw a huge hole getting patched on a laser where they put a board with a rope inside the hole and tied it to a tree. If necessary, I suppose I could put something through the hole and pull the piece back closer to where it belongs. Thanks again for all the thoughtful replies.  

• Aug 25, 2015

Photos are not showing up for some reason. I think you need to have a few more posts to be able to add photos.  

No Title I finally have a camera icon in front of me. Anything you saw previously came from the attachment button. Here are all 3 photos (captioned) plus more.  

Attachments

The impact on the keel does not look like it came from the trailer. However I could be wrong  

I would be putting a lot softer springs on that trailer.  

Tonight that trailer is parked at Interstate Spring & Alignment waiting for a full evaluation. It's in good company surrounded by 18-wheeler cabs, enormous dump-trucks, etc. I explained that the trailer carries less than 200 lbs and I want the springs to move when I step on the trailer. The guy understood the predicament and he will be checking for frozen bushings as well as evaluating the strength of the springs themselves.  

Lieutenant Junior Grade

• Aug 26, 2015

If the breach is anywhere near one of the sharp corners at the outer ends of your carpeted supports, I'd guess the boat bounced into the air, moved a little sideways and landed on the corner of the support.  

HotTommy said: If the breach is anywhere near one of the sharp corners at the outer ends of your carpeted supports, I'd guess the boat bounced into the air, moved a little sideways and landed on the corner of the support. Click to expand...

No Title Yes, HotTommy you may be on to something there.The rear bunk did the worst damage, but the front had problems, too. Here are 4 new pictures after I started working on the edges. Bondo Fiberglass resin calls for sanding off all the color for 3 inches all around each defect. That sounds excessive, but I am inclined to follow their advice. I already know what their answer will be if I call the 800 number. "We recommend extending a 3-in radius around the repair if you want the strongest, longest-lasting repair."  

Repair from the inside with a non stick backer on the outside if you can and don't use anything that says Bondo on it If you can do the repair from the inside then you only need to make the outside look pretty... IE sand and paint if you want. Start a thread in the restoration section and the guys will walk you through step by step.  

• Aug 28, 2015

Yes, these bunks were made from templates supplied by the manufacturer. They specifically warn against using flat bunks along the length of the boat.