ablative paint sailboat

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Learn more about boat paint applications and marine supplies.

A Guide to Ablative Paint

Ablative paint, also known as self-polishing antifouling paint, is a specialized marine coating designed to protect boat hulls from the growth of marine organisms such as barnacles, algae, and mollusks. Unlike traditional paints that form a hard barrier, ablative paint works through a process called “ablative action,” where the outer layer gradually wears away, releasing biocides that deter marine growth. This continuous wearing away of the paint helps to prevent the buildup of marine organisms on the hull.

The lifespan of ablative paint can vary depending on factors such as water conditions, boat usage, and the specific paint formula. Generally, ablative paint lasts one to three seasons before needing reapplication.

One of the key benefits of using ablative paint is its effectiveness at preventing marine growth, which can improve boat performance and fuel efficiency. Additionally, ablative paint is relatively easy to apply and maintain, as it does not require sanding between coats. This makes it a convenient choice for boat owners looking for an effective antifouling solution.

Ablative paint can typically be applied over other types of paint after proper surface preparation. It’s important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for compatibility and preparation. Application of ablative paint involves cleaning and preparing the hull surface, applying the paint evenly, and allowing it to dry before launching the boat.

Many ablative paints are formulated to be environmentally friendly, but it’s important to check the product specifications and use guidelines to ensure proper handling and disposal. Ablative paint can be used in freshwater, but its effectiveness may vary compared to use in saltwater due to differences in marine growth and environmental conditions.

There are two main types of ablative paints: self-polishing and non-polishing. Self-polishing ablative paints wear away gradually, releasing biocides and polishing the surface to maintain effectiveness. Non-polishing ablative paints rely on the leaching of biocides without significant surface polishing.

To choose the right ablative paint for your boat, consider factors such as the type of water you will be boating in (saltwater or freshwater), the speed and frequency of use of your boat, and the specific antifouling needs based on the local marine environment. Following manufacturer recommendations for application and maintenance is crucial to ensure optimal performance of the ablative paint. If you need any help selecting the right ablative paint for your boat just give us a call 888.505.2313 M-Fri 9am – 5pm EST.

Sailboat Bottom Paint: 10 Best Paints

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

If you leave your boat without protection, it's beyond question that it will start attracting several marine organisms such as slime, algae, mussels, barnacle, and seaweed. This will cover the bottom of your sailboat and may negatively affect your boat's speed and fuel efficiency.

This is exactly why you need to apply the best sailboat bottom paint on your boat.

The freedom that sailing and being off land gives you are immense and almost unmatched.

But do you know that having multiple organisms such as algae, slime, barnacle, seaweed, and mussels grow on your boat can throw everything out on the wind and leave you with a very unreliable boat?

These pesky hangers will put a huge dent in your boat's speed, its movement, fuel efficiency, and overall aesthetic.

That's why you need the best sailboat bottom paint to greatly minimize any damage that might be caused to your boat's hull by marine biological growth.

Also known as antifouling paint, bottom paint is essentially a paint or coating that's specifically designed with elements that prevent various marine organisms such as algae, seaweed, barnacles, slime, and mussels from attaching themselves to your boat's hull or any other part of the boat that's below the waterline.

One of the most important elements of bottom paint is the inclusion of a biocide and copper is the most common. This may, however, depend on the type of boat that you have, how, and where you always use it.

But because there's an ocean of bottom paints out there on the market, choosing the best sailboat bottom paint can be an overwhelming task for most of us.

Fortunately, you can always count on us to make it a lot easier for you. We've gone through many bottom paints and we do not doubt that we've selected the most effective, reliable, and best sailboat bottom paint.

Our unbiased selections will not only match your needs and budget but will be available in a variety of colors to complement and augment your boat's visual appeal.

Table of contents

What to Consider when Purchasing Sailboat Bottom Paint

If you're on the market for the best sailboat bottom paint, it's crucial to go for top quality; something that will offer efficiency, top speed, and excellent performance for your sailboat. With that in mind, here are a few things to consider before spending your hard-earned money on bottom paint.

Your Sailing Location

Where are you planning to sail? Is it on a freshwater body or in a saltwater location? This is essential in helping you determine whether to go for a bottom paint that's meant for saltwater, freshwater, or both. It's generally recommended that you go for a bottom paint that will serve you perfectly well in both freshwater and saltwater. This gives you the versatility of sailing anywhere without worrying about marine organisms damaging your boat's hull.

Launch Time and Recoat Time

It's important to keep in mind that bottom paint products have specific launch time limits. The idea here is to ensure that you launch it within the required timeframe and ensure that recoating is done as required. You should, therefore, choose a bottom paint that offers a lengthy launch and recoat time while offering durable protection for your vessel is the right thing to do.

Type of Boat

You should determine whether your boat is made of wood, fiberglass, or aluminum and go for bottom paint that's suitable for that particular surface. Many bottom paints work perfectly with fiberglass but some work great with aluminum or wooden surfaces.

The Fouling Condition

Having a deeper idea of the type of fouling that you might deal with can be crucial when buying the right bottom paint for you. Whether you're dealing with slime, algae, mussel, or any other type of marine organism, knowing the type of fouling you're dealing with will make it a lot easier to pick the best sailboat bottom paint for your vessel.

Best Sailboat Bottom Paint

Rust-oleum marine flat boat bottom antifouling paint.

As one of the most respected brand names in the bottom paint industry, Rust-Oleum is known for producing some of the best sailboat bottom paint and the Marine Flat Boat Bottom Antifouling Paint is one of them. This bottom pain is designed to be suitable for various conditions (both freshwater and saltwater) and is designed with moderate copper that works great if you are environment-conscious.

This bottom paint does an excellent job of offering a protective coating to ensure that your boat is free of all sorts of unwanted marine organisms. You'll love this paint because it is thick and spreads so easily and will not be a problem even if you're a beginner. This bottom paint offers top-notch antifouling properties and is very easy to apply as long as you use a soft brush and mix it carefully. This is a great bottom paint choice that will offer a sleek multi-season finish and ensure that your boat's hull is always awesome and in great condition.

• ‍ Easy and simple to apply
• Great for both freshwater and saltwater
• Offers gentle fouling conditions
• Excellent in antifouling
• Offer a sleek and awesome finish
• ‍ Quite expensive
• Has a very strong smell that can cause headache

Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote Antifouling Paint

This is another great brand that is considered as one of the best bottom paint in the sailing world. Even though it's a bit pricey, it offers great features that will ensure that your boat remains in tip-top shape. It is an excellent option if you're looking for a sailboat bottom paint that brings to the fore a unique dual resin approach.

This is a very reliable bottom paint that will not only prevent your boat's hull from the effect of marine organisms but also prevent premature deterioration. It offers an awesome polishing action and is perfecting if you want to discard unnecessary paint buildup. This bottom paint is also very economical and a small quantity will cover a considerable surface area of your boat's bottom.

This is, without a doubt, a superb buy in terms of its practicality and economical nature. It is excellently formulated to prevent marine organisms from damaging your boat and also to ensure that premature wear and tear doesn't exist in your vocabulary.

• ‍ It's formulated with a unique dual resin approach to prevent premature wear and tear
• It prevents early decline
• It prevents unnecessary paint buildup
• Great for ensuring that your boat is fuel effective
• Great for all conditions (both freshwater and saltwater)
• ‍ It's expensive
• The quantity and size can be misleading

TotalBoat JD Select Bottom Paint

As one of the few bottom paints that's formulated with low Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC), this bottom paint is one of the most cost-effective on this list. With one gallon, you can easily cover about 400 square feet and the application is a breeze since it's even much easier to clean up.

When you purchase this bottom paint, the package will come complete with a pair of latex gloves, a wooden stir stick, an abrasive pad, a metal tray kit, a paint suit, a roller, a painter's tape, and many more. The inclusion of all these accessories makes it a quite cost-effective purchase.

Again, this is one of the most durable bottom paints. Apply it on your boat's hull and you're guaranteed that it will offer excellent protection for the next 18 months. On the downside, this paint is too thick and you'll have to buy an excellent thinner for it to work perfectly.

Nonetheless, this is an ablative bottom paint that is easy to apply and does an excellent job of protecting your boat's bottom for close to two years.

• ‍ Perfect for all conditions
• Easy to apply and clean up
• Can improve your boat's speed and fuel efficiency
• Comes with all accessories required for the paint job
• It's one of the best water-based bottom paint products in the industry
• It contains low VOC
• ‍ You'll need a top-quality thinner for it to work perfectly

Aquaguard Water-based Antifouling Bottom Paint

An excellent choice for both wooden and fiberglass boats, this is the most perfect bottom point for saltwater conditions. This is a water-based bottom paint that's very easy to apply and clean up (using soap and water) and is formulated with an ablative action that makes it superb for preventing any marine organism that may negatively affect your boat.

This is a bottom paint that is EPA-approved and surpasses the set VOC standards. It has an extended shelf life and offers durable protection for your sailboat. It doesn't contain toxic fumes and is great even for novices. Its drying time is also excellent, so you won't wait for far too long to get your boat out there on the water.

• ‍ Excellent for saltwater conditions
• Application and cleaning is very easy
• It's approved by the US EPA
• You don't have to use a primer
• ‍ The color selection is limited
• A bit pricey

Pettit Hydrocoat

This is another water-based bottom paint that offers outstanding ablative properties that will protect your boat from marine organisms throughout the seasons. It offers good value for money and is easy to apply and clean up with just water and soap.

We're talking about a bottom paint product that will protect your boat's hull for months on end. You also do not need a full tank of the paint to complete the job. With just a single gallon, you can be sure to complete an area as big as 430 square feet.

This is also one of the few bottom paints that can perfectly prevent your boat from damage when being trailered, launched, or beached. More importantly, it's not irritating to the nose and eyes because it has low VOC.

• ‍ It will dry in 3 hours
• It's easy to apply and clean up
• It offers multi-season protection
• It's not irritating to the eyes and nose
• It's quite economical
• ‍ May not be the best in antifouling
• You have to apply at least two coats

SEA HAWK PAINTS Aluminum Boat Paint

One of the best aluminum boat paints in the market, this bottom paint is formulated to offer quick-dry corrosion-blocking, high-solid features. This bottom paint is specifically manufactured to be used in aluminum boats and doesn't require the addition of any primer.

While it doesn't have an antifouling feature, it stands out and can be used both below and above the waterline as it is risk-free and free or chromate. It is also formulated to offer a unique dual resin approach and can be used both as paint and a primer at the same time.

This is a great paint for both freshwater and saltwater conditions and can be applied as a primer or topcoat on a fiberglass boat. This is an excellent sailboat boat bottom paint that's worth every coin as it is practical, versatile, and can combat both rusting and lifting.

• ‍ The application and cleanup process is easy
• Great for both freshwater and saltwater conditions
• It doesn't require a primer
• Can be used as primer or topcoat in fiberglass boats
• Can prevent rusting and lifting
• It has quick-dry and anti-corrosion features
• ‍ Can produce deadly fumes

TotalBoat Spartan Boat Bottom Paint

If you've been looking for a practical, reliable, and cost-effecting bottom paint that will offer durable performance and protection, the Spartan Boat Bottom Paint. Perfect for both freshwater and saltwater, it can be perfect for protecting your boat and ensuring that it is fuel-efficient and reliable.

This bottom paint is formulated with advanced copolymer ablative to ensure that it doesn't deteriorate instantly. This is a very dependable bottom paint that will serve you perfectly throughout the year and will ensure that your boat easily defies fouling while reducing unnecessary buildup and sanding on your boat.

This is a very adaptable bottom paint that not only offers great value for money but is very easy to apply. More importantly, it is very durable and will protect your vessel for at least 12 months on any type of water.

• ‍ Great for all types of water
• It offers a very durable protection
• Available in a wide variety of color selection
• Offer a visually appealing abrasion-proof finish
• ‍ The included accessories aren't up to the right quality

To this end, we must put a lot of emphasis on the importance of having the right bottom paint for your boat. In addition to being an antifouling agent, bottom paint will significantly increase the fuel efficiency of your boat and ensure that it performs optimally at all times. Of course, you do not want to diminish your sailing escapades or have your nice and beautiful vessel damaged by marine organisms just because you didn't apply the right sailboat bottom paint. If you're unsure how to proceed, here's how to paint a sailboat.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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• Paint & Maintenance
• Antifouling Boat Bottom Paint

Ablative Bottom Paint

Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote NT

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Interlux Micron CSC Antifouling Bottom Paint

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Interlux ACT Ablative Antifouling Bottom Paint

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Interlux Trilux 33 Antifouling Boat Bottom Paint

Interlux Trilux 33 Antifouling Bottom Paint Trilux 33 is formulated to provide the most effective protection for fiberglass, wood, and all underwater metal surfaces. This antifouling bottom paint is tin-free and is perfect for maintaining bright colors...

Pettit Hydrocoat Ablative Antifouling Paint

Pettit Hydrocoat Antifouling Bottom Paint Spring 2024 Consumer Rebate program! Save 50$ per gallon up to 2 gallons Feb 15 - May 31! Click here for Additional Information and here for the Rebate Form! Pettit Hydrocoat is an eco-friendly water-based...

Interlux Aqua One Ablative Antifouling Paint

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Pettit ECO HRT Copper-Free Bottom Paint

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Interlux Micron Extra w/ Biolux Antifouling Paint

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Pettit Premium HRT Bottom Paint

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Aquagard Water-Based Antifouling Paint

Aquagard Water-Based Antifouling Paint Using antifouling paint on your boat helps prevent organisms such as algae, barnacles, and slime from attaching to your vessel. Aquagard antifouling paint helps to prevent biofouling and protects your boat hull...

Aquagard Bottom Gard Antifouling Paint - Gallon

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Interlux Micron 66 Antifouling Boat Bottom Paint

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Pettit Unepoxy HRT Bottom Paint

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Interlux Nautical ProGuard Ablative Antifouling Paint

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Interlux Micron CF Bottom Paint

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Sea Hawk Cukote Bottom Paint

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Pettit Hydrocoat Eco Ablative Antifouling Paint

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Ablative Antifouling Bottom Paint

Ablative bottom paint (a.k.a anti-fouling paint) is a paint or coating designed to discourage weeds, barnacles, and other aquatic organisms from attaching themselves (and in the case of wooden boats, eating) to the underwater portion of your boat's hull. Bottom paints have traditionally accomplished this by including biocides, with the included copper being the most commonly used in today's formulas. In general, the more copper or other biocide a paint contains, the more effective it is. Wholesale Marine carries a great selection of ablative antifouling bottom paints from the trusted brands in marine paints including Pettit , Sea Hawk , Interlux , and Aquaguard . Not sure which is the right choice for your craft? Just confer with our boating experts by calling (877) 388-2628.

Ablative bottom paint gradually wears away a tiny bit at a time to reveal fresh biocide as your boat moves through the water, in a fashion very similar to how soap wears down with usage. One advantage to this is that as long as paint remains on your hull, you know it's working to prevent growth. Another benefit is that as it's constantly wearing away, there's no buildup of old paint, which can be difficult to remove before applying a fresh coat. Be aware, too, that ablative antifouling bottom paints can lose their effectiveness if your boat remains idle for extended periods of time, because it is water movement that provides that self-cleaning action. Additionally, be aware that ablative bottom paints aren't a good choice for fast-moving boats, which would accelerate the ablation process and cause rapid paint loss. In which case, be sure to speak with Wholesale Marine’s boating experts for advice on alternative choices.

You can depend on Wholesale Marine to always have whatever you need to maintain your boat in stock and at very competitive prices. When you need assistance in making your ablative antifouling bottom paint and boat maintenance supplies selections, just ask our knowledgeable service staff. At Wholesale Marine, you can depend on our products and will appreciate the convenience of our fast, flat-rate shipping, and easy returns. When you call, be sure to ask about our Captain’s Club Rewards program to receive extra discounts the next time you shop. Have questions or need to place an order? Call us at: (877) 388-2628. We’re available Monday through Friday, from 8:30 AM until 4:30 PM.

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The Boat Galley

making boat life better

Switching from Ablative to Hard Bottom Paint

Published on March 25, 2019 ; last updated on June 12, 2020 by Carolyn Shearlock

One of the big things we wanted to do on our recent haul out was to switch from ablative to hard bottom paint. We had always used hard paint on our previous boat, Que Tal, but had decided to use ablative on Barefoot Gal for a couple of reasons:

• When we first bought Barefoot Gal, we thought we were only going to cruise six months a year. Ablative paint is still good when a boat is re-launched after being stored for several months; hard paint isn’t.
• After scraping many years of hard paint from Barefoot Gal’s hull, we were determined not to do that again.

The Reasons for Changing

After four and a half years with ablative paint, it was clear that it just wasn’t doing its job to keep the bottom free of growth. In the fall of 2014, we’d put on 3 coats of Hydrocoat SR. Fall of 2015, two more. Spring of 2017, one of Micron 66. Throughout that time, we’d had have the bottom cleaned every three to four weeks . . . and it could be argued that just before each of the repaintings, two weeks would really have been better.

The idea behind ablative paint is that it wears off slightly as you travel through the water, so fresh paint is always being exposed and the barnacles and other growth never get a real start. While ablative paint is marketed for cruising boats, I’ve come to realize that it’s really better for commercial boats that run every day and at higher speeds.

We weren’t on the move every day, and our top speed on a really good day is maybe 7 knots through the water. Consequently, we were having to clean the bottom frequently. Ablative paint is soft and comes off just as easily (maybe more so!) when cleaning it as when moving. Every time we cleaned the bottom, we lost more bottom paint and made the situation just that much worse in the long run. Basically, a downhill spiral.

We were pretty certain that we wanted to switch to hard paint, but asked our bottom cleaners (Derek and Chris of Obsessive-Compulsive Divers in Boot Key Harbor) what they were seeing among the boats they clean. Derek was blunt: “Hard paint is definitely better; ablative just doesn’t hold up. By far the best we’re seeing is Trinidad.”

Changing wouldn’t be cheap, but we decided to do it. Sticking with ablative and paying $100 every few weeks for a bottom cleaning (or spending a day doing it ourselves) wasn’t cheap either. Based on Derek’s advice, and the experience of my podcast co-host Nica Waters and also Behan Gifford of Sailing Totem , we decided to go with Trinidad SR.

How to Change from Ablative to Hard Bottom Paint

The basic issue in switching from ablative to hard paint is that the ablative paint can still try to wear away under the hard paint and will take the hard layers with it. If there are years of ablative paint build up, the recommendation is to soda blast the hull back to gelcoat. But soda blasting is expensive — around here, in the neighborhood of $3,000 for a boat the size of Barefoot Gal. And that’s in addition to the cost of the haul out, the paint and the labor. Another option would be to sand back to gelcoat, but around here that’s more expensive than soda blasting.

We had only had six coats of ablative paint on the boat since we had taken it to bare gelcoat. And to be honest, much of that was gone. A good pressure washing at the haul out would take off even more. We were hopeful that we could get by with a less expensive prep.

We opted to have the bottom aggressively pressure washed, and then heavily sanded to remove as much of the old paint as was reasonable — but that did not take it all the way back to gelcoat except in high-wear areas. Then we had Pettit Tie Coat applied to the whole bottom. The first coat of bottom paint — in our case, Trinidad SR — is applied while the Tie Coat is still tacky so that there is a chemical bonding between the two.

Tie Coat is used between two materials that otherwise wouldn’t bond well. It is extremely “sticky” paint that bonds to nearly anything. The extra sanding and Tie Coat application cost us about $1,000 (again, in addition to the regular haul, pressure wash, paint and labor charges).

Not cheap, but better than soda blasting. And if the bottom job lasts two years instead of one, and if we don’t have to have the bottom cleaned as often, we might just be money ahead. (We normally haul out and repaint every year but did not in 2018 due to Hurricane Irma — boatyards simply didn’t have space for us).

Important Info

I don’t want to give the impression that using Tie Coat instead of removing the old paint will work for everyone. In fact, Pettit’s technical support recommended that even with the little bit of ablative paint we had on the boat, we should have it soda blasted in order to get the best possible adhesion. They definitely said that if we had more than 8 coats of paint or if it was peeling or cracking off at all, it needed to be gotten rid of.

We know that we’re taking a risk with doing it the way we did. We might have made a mistake and “wasted” $1,000 instead of saving $2,000. But that’s how things work in the real world. We do the best we can with imperfect information. We made a decision and will see how it plays out over the next couple of years.

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Reader Interactions

Lisa Colvin says

March 25, 2019 at 7:56 am

Thanks for this info. We are in the same situation. Our old Monohull had hard paint (Trinidad). We were very happy with it. The new pocket catamaran already had Ablative so we just stuck with that this year. I’m pretty sure we will have to go back to hard paint on the next haulout though. Fun times….

Carolyn Shearlock says

March 25, 2019 at 8:32 am

Glad to hear another vote for Trinidad!

Cherie says

March 26, 2019 at 8:22 am

We have used ablative paint for all of the years we have owned “big” boats. Here in Florida, we found two different dive companies that did not clean the bottom properly causing excessive wear which caused frequent hauling for a new bottom. Our current diver uses different tools once per month for the cleaning and we just had a new bottom after 3 1/2 years. Not saying that is good on Marathon, but in St Pete’s Harborage marina with brackish water it works well. I guess it depends on where you are and the “stuff” in the water.

Mike (Improbability) says

March 28, 2019 at 1:56 pm

Hi C & D, Part of your paint problem is Marathon and not moving much. In Mystic, CT in the summer we get underway every few weeks to cruise. Plus we travel up and down the ICW for months each year. Our Petit ablative works well, until we get to Marathon. Mostly sitting there cannot be handled by ablative paints. The vortex holds the bottom growth in place. ;>)

March 29, 2019 at 9:26 am

The ablative seem to do better in cooler waters but I have no scientific proof — just anecdotal from a lot of cruisers.

March 29, 2019 at 12:10 pm

I had my boat taken down to get coat, did 3 coats of barrier coat and 3 coats of TotalBoat Ablative. I am in the Sea Of Cortes and it’s very hot in summer/cold water in winter. In the last year I only had to clean my boat bottom a couple times and only at the water line even if I did sit still a couple months in the marina. I am hauled out and doing some work in the boat but the bottom looks good and I will wait until next fall (2 Years since painted) to do anymore bottom paint. I will say that the paint is extremely soft and when you touch it, it does come off easy. I think if I had to bottom clean it monthly then all the paint would be gone.

April 20, 2019 at 9:49 pm

Instead of struggling and sweating every year do yourselves a favor and buy the paint that will protect your boats for the next 8 – 10 years. I strongly recommend : –> web: http://www.seacoat.com John R. Bowlin Seacoat SCT, LLC 31902 Industrial park Dr. Pinehurst, Texas. 77362 Tel: 832 237 4400 Fax:832 237 4414 Cel: 713 261 0558 email: [email protected]

April 21, 2019 at 7:01 am

I just checked out the website — it’s a silicone anti-fouling that sounds really interesting both for its longevity (even with scrubbing) and the fact that it’s not releasing toxic copper into the water. The fact that no prices are listed on their website makes me wonder if it’s even in the realm of being affordable.

Doug Heap says

May 3, 2019 at 2:42 am

Check out Sailing Delos on you tube, I think they applied a similar product, interesting to see how it works. Cheers from New Zealand

Chuck B says

August 31, 2019 at 12:26 pm

There’s an exciting option called Selektope ( https://selektope.com ). It’s not a biocide but somehow “tickles” barnacles into not being able to attach. It’s non-toxic, doesn’t kill the barnacles, and has been shown to be quite effective. Unfortunately, I’ve been asking for years when it will be approved for use/application in the U.S. and no one knows. But looks like it should be available almost anywhere else.

SV ODAT says

June 15, 2020 at 7:19 am

So, shows the hard paint holding up so far? I’m at that decision point having to bring bottom down to gel coat on a boat that never has had barrier coat!

June 15, 2020 at 7:58 am

It’s been not quite a year and a half and is doing well == in fact, we just had the bottom cleaned and I asked our diver that exact question. We’re in a very high growth harbor, and having to clean it once a month, but the paint is totally intact. Further, we’re not having as much growth as we did with the ablative paint.

Robert meehan says

November 22, 2020 at 12:59 pm

You got to get better ablative paint. I currently use professional grade sherwin williams marine coating with nearly 50 percent cuprous oxide. Boats can sit all summer and come out clean with minor scum only. Also do not let anyone wash or scrape it. Just trust the paint

November 23, 2020 at 9:26 am

We’re in an area that is notorious for heavy fouling.

John Engel says

March 2, 2021 at 8:38 am

Been re-painting my powerboats with ablative in Connecticut for 40 years, power-washing my racing sailboats hard bottoms for just as long. And I’m still lost.

I want a matrix based on frequency of use, hull speed, water temperature, hull shape, docked-moored-or trailered, and cost.

My 26’ picnic boat powered by diesel is used 50 hrs per season ferrying passengers 1.5 miles at a top speed of 22 knots. Probably ablative.

My sons 17’ Boston Whaler has no bottom paint and sits on a trailer but will probably live at the dock for week-long stretches during the summer. Goes 40 knots. Hard to say how frequently he will use it. Wondering if I can try hard paint in Connecticut?

March 3, 2021 at 7:06 am

I don’t know why you couldn’t use hard paint.

May 19, 2021 at 4:40 pm

Which is the best Auntifouling paint to use for Wooden hulls? We’ve heard hard AF paint… any recommendations?

May 21, 2021 at 7:13 am

We’re happy with the Trinidad SR — it’s a hard paint.

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How Long Does Boat Bottom Paint Last?

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While death and taxes may be better known, there's a third certainty in life many boat owners face that's often viewed with just as much trepidation.

Photo: Frank Lanier

Ever since our first troglodytic ancestor shoved off astride his trusty log, mariners have tried most every concoction imaginable to keep waterborne critters and growth at bay, from mixtures of tar, sulfur, and brimstone, to paints laced with tin, arsenic, pesticides, and even the occasional jar of chili powder. Although environmental concerns have relegated the most noxious mixtures of yesteryear to the dustbin of history, bottom paint still remains a complex topic. Here's a look at what bottom paint is, its application, and how to find the one that's right for you.

What Is Bottom Paint, Anyway?

Bottom paint (aka antifouling paint) is a paint or coating designed to discourage weeds, barnacles, and other aquatic organisms from attaching themselves to (and in the case of wooden boats, eating) the underwater portion of your boat's hull. Bottom paints have traditionally accomplished this by inclusion of a biocide, with copper being the most commonly used today. In general, the more copper or other biocide a paint contains, the more effective (and costly) it is. Copper replaced tin, the previous biocide of choice for decades, now banned in most marine applications due to the environmental damage it caused while leaching into the waters of the world. While copper may still be king, the latest generation of eco-labeled bottom paints utilize little or no copper, a response to the increased scrutiny copper-based paints have received as potential environmental pollutants.

Bottom Paint — Who Needs It?

If your boat stays in the water year round or during most or all of the boating season, application of bottom paint is pretty much the rule. For boats left in the water for short periods of time (that two-week summer vacation, for example) or that are stored out of the water (trailer, lift, dry storage facility), a good coat of wax and regular cleaning are typically all that's needed to maintain a clean hull.

If your boat has never been bottom painted and you're mulling over the idea, make sure you understand that once bottom paint is applied, the die is cast, and that periodic bottom-paint application, cleaning, and renewal become a permanent part of the vessel's routine maintenance schedule. Another consideration is that the application of bottom paint in some cases (particularly on trailer-sized boats) may be viewed as a negative to potential buyers if you decide to sell later on.

DIY Or Yard?

The only allure of doing your own bottom job (cleaning, prepping, and applying antifouling paint) is saving money. It's a messy, tedious job that isn't fun by any stretch of the imagination, but it's not rocket science, either. Owners comfortable with DIY projects can do their own bottom job with satisfactory results, as long as they follow the manufacturer's instructions and rules regarding containment of old bottom paint during removal (as well as proper disposal afterward). Many bottom paints are toxic and have to be treated as such; some even require a pesticide license or other special permit to apply. As such, any potential DIYers will need to ensure they're thoroughly familiar with the entire application process and follow all required safety precautions and practices, such as the use of respirators, protective clothing, etc. In addition, many boatyards have their own rules about boaters taking on this chore.

Paying a professional to tackle the job has several advantages. The time and effort required for a bottom job can (and likely will) be greater than many newcomers estimate, particularly if the hull is in need of substantial prep work prior to painting (i.e. removal of old paint buildup, blister repairs, etc.). The possibility of this "unexpected" extra time should be factored in when weighing the savings of a DIY approach versus the yard, as should the ancillary costs of painting equipment and safety gear.

What's Your Type?

Despite seemingly endless choices, traditional bottom paints can be divided into three broad groups: ablative, hard, and hybrid paints.

Ablative (aka self-polishing) paints gradually wear away a tiny bit at a time to reveal fresh biocide as your boat moves through the water (think a bar of soap that wears away each time it's used). One advantage to this is that as long as paint remains on your hull, you know it's working to prevent growth (like that soap bar, which may get smaller, yet still lathers up). Another benefit is that as it's constantly wearing away, there's no buildup of old paint, which can be a pain to remove when the time comes. But ablative paints can be less effective if your boat remains idle for extended periods of time, which denies it that self-cleaning action provided by water movement. The flipside to this self-cleaning feature is that ablatives aren't a good choice for fast-moving boats, which would accelerate the ablation process and cause rapid paint loss.

With hard bottom (aka non-sloughing or hard modified epoxy) paints, it's the copper biocide that gradually wears away (rather than the paint itself), allowing the water to penetrate deeper and deeper into the paint until all biocide is depleted. Hard-bottom paints form a tough, hard coating that holds up well and doesn't wear away, making them a good choice for faster boats. They can even be burnished, allowing racers to squeeze every possible bit of speed from their hull. On the downside, when the copper is depleted, the hard, tough coating remains and it can be messy and difficult to remove, particularly if multiple layers of paint have been added over the years. Eventually this accumulated paint reaches critical mass, becoming so thick it begins to crack and peel, necessitating a complete stripping of the hull.

Bottom paint is a "must have" for boats that spend most of the year in the water. (Photo: Billy Black)

Hybrid or semi-hard ablative paints bridge the gap between ablative and hard paints by incorporating the benefits of both into a single product. They provide a hard, smooth surface that resists buildup yet holds up to faster speeds and repeated haul-outs without loss of protection.

The type of boat you have plays a significant role in bottom-paint selection. Highspeed powerboats will want to use a hard or possibly hybrid bottom paint — ablative paints simply won't last as long at speed. Trailerable boats are best off without bottom paint, but if that's not an option, consider a hybrid paint, which will hold up better throughout the constant launch and haul-out cycles (most hard paints can't tolerate being out of the water for extended lengths of time). Slower craft can use hard, hybrid, or ablative type paints, but the benefits of the latter two (no buildup, self-cleaning, etc.) should be considered when choosing. (For an indepth review of bottom paints and long-term test results, see Practical Sailor magazine .)

Application Considerations

For boats not currently painted, application is simply a matter of following the paint manufacturer's instructions for application to a new or unpainted hull. If your boat is currently painted, you have a few considerations to address before repainting. Not all bottom paint types are compatible, so unless you plan on removing ALL of the existing bottom paint, the paint you currently have will influence your choice of new paint. If you know the brand/type of bottom paint on your boat now, the options are straightforward — either continue to use the same paint or (if using a different paint) consult manufacturer specs for both paints (old and new) to ensure compatibility.

If you don't know who the manufacturer of your current paint is and plan on painting over it, at a minimum you'll need to determine whether it's a hard, semi-hard, or ablative type. One straightforward way to do this is by rubbing the existing bottom paint with a wet rag. If the paint readily rubs off, it's most likely ablative. The general rule is that ablative paints can be applied over properly prepared hard or semi-hard paints, but hard or semi-hard paints can't be applied over ablative paints (which wouldn't provide a proper adhesive surface for the hard paint). For those wanting to switch from soft to hard paint, the ablative paint would need to be removed first.

Depending on the paint and its condition (i.e. good adhesion, no flaking, etc.), proper surface preparation of your old paint can range from a light sanding to complete removal or application of a primer coat. New paint adhesion will only be as good as the paint beneath it, meaning paint in poor condition or showing signs of significant adhesion failure must be removed. Err on the side of removing more paint rather than less, but beware: If your boat has a barrier coat applied, make sure your methodof bottom paint removal doesn't damage or remove it along with the old paint.

Choosing A Paint

As you can tell by the sheer number of bottom paints on the market, no one type or brand works best in all water, weather, and locations. A boat moored in Maryland will require a different antifouling paint from one cruising tropical waters. One of the best sources of information on which paints work best for a particular area is your local boatyard manager. Fellow boat owners can also provide valuable local knowledge regarding which paints work best in your location. Finally, many bottom paint manufacturers such as Interlux and Pettit offer online charts and tables to assist in choosing the right antifouling paint for you boat and location.

While there are plenty of bottom paints to choose from, there's no magic bullet that stops growth altogether. Boats kept in the water year round or for the season will still require regular cleaning and periodic hauling for repainting. In northern climes where boats are hauled annually, bottom jobs are usually rolled in with the other spring launch preparation rituals. Bottom job schedules for other locations vary, but are typically required every two to three years.

Rejuvenating Hard Or Semi-Hard Bottom Paints

Refer to manufacturer instructions for your specific paint, but the following are general guidelines for launching and relaunching of vessels with hard or semi-hard (modified) paints applied.

• Newly painted boats — Launch delays of up to 60 days after painting with no loss of performance or special requirements necessary
• Boats launched two to 12 months after painting — Scuff-sand with abrasive pad or 220-grit sandpaper prior to launch
• Boats launched more than 12 months after painting — Light sanding with 100-grit sandpaper followed by recoating

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Frank Lanier

Contributing Editor, BoatUS Magazine

Capt. Frank Lanier is a SAMS Accredited Marine Surveyor with more than 40 years of experience in the marine and diving industries. He’s also an author, public speaker, and multiple award-winning journalist whose articles on boat maintenance, repair, and seamanship appear regularly in numerous marine publications worldwide. He can be reached via his YouTube channel “Everything Boats with Capt. Frank Lanier” and website captfklanier.com.

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MULTI-SEASON ANTIFOULING

BURNISH FOR SPEED

EASY TO USE

GALLON BONUS

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Exceptional antifouling protection in high fouling conditions

Spartan’s high copper content and ablative, self-polishing nature combine to shed slime and shield your boat’s bottom from hard and soft growth like zebra mussels, algae, and hydroids all season long. The more coats you apply, the longer Spartan repels even the most aggressive foulants.

Burnishing adds smoothness and speed with no loss of protection

Spartan Antifouling Paint is easy to apply with a roller or brush, flows evenly, and cures quickly to a streamlined, abrasion-resistant finish made even smoother by burnishing. And Spartan won’t wear off faster just because your boat moves faster through the water. Its advanced co-polymer ablative formula releases biocides at the same constant, controlled rate no matter how fast or slow you go.

Spartan Antifouling Paint Details

• Ultra-smooth, durable bottom paint for fiberglass and wooden boats, primed steel, and most previously painted surfaces.
• Each Gallon order includes a free roller & metal tray kit, paint suit, 1 roll of painter’s masking tape, an abrasive pad, and two 10″ wooden stir sticks.
• 38% copper load ensures multiple season protection in salt water and fresh water.
• Smooth finish can be burnished for added speed and increased fuel efficiency.
• Colors: Black, Blue, Green, and Red
• Sizes: Gallons (all colors) and Quarts (Black/Blue only)

Safety Precautions

Keep away from heat, sparks, open flames. and hot surfaces. Do not get in eyes, skin, or on clothing. Do not breathe vapors or spray mist. Do not eat, drink, or smoke when using this product. Avoid releases of this product to the environment. Wear proper eye, skin, arms and hands protection. Before using this product, please read and understand all safety information in the SDS (Safety Data Sheet).

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TotalProtect Epoxy Barrier Coat Primer

Special Brushing Thinner 100

Spray Thinner 101

SEE HOW EASY IT IS TO USE SPARTAN

TECHNICAL DATA

• Substrates: Fiberglass, wood, steel/iron, and properly prepared previously painted substrates
• Application Method: Brush, Roll (3/16" solvent-safe nap or foam roller cover), or Spray (airless or conventional)
• Film Thickness (per Coat): 1.5 mils dry (3.75 mils wet)
• Number of Coats: 1-2
• Dry Time to Overcoat: 1.5 hours @ 90ºF, 3 hours @ 70ºF, 6 hours @ 50ºF
• Dry Time to Launch: 6 hours @ 90ºF, 10 hours @ 70ºF, 16 hours @ 50ºF
• Colors: Black, Blue, Green, Red
• Finish: Flat
• Seasonal Protection: Multi-season - apply at least one coat per season of protection.
• Applicable Waters: Salt water & fresh water
• Cuprous Oxide: 37.50%
• Coverage: 500 square feet per gallon; 125 square feet per quart
• Launch Window: There is no maximum dry time before launching.
• Primer: TotalBoat TotalProtect
• Thinner: TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100 (Brushing/Rolling), TotalBoat Spray Thinner 101 (Spraying, cool weather Brushing/Rolling)
• Surface Prep Solvent: TotalBoat Dewaxer & Surface Prep or TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100 or TotalBoat Spray Thinner 101 or Acetone (bare substrates only, but specifically recommended for use on oily hardwoods or bare white oak).
• Cleanup Solvent: TotalBoat Dewaxer & Surface Prep or TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100 or TotalBoat Spray Thinner 101
• Substrates:
• Seasonal protection:
• Applicable waters:
• Colors available:
• Water or solvent based?
• Application methods:
• Number of coats:
• Application temperature/RH:
• Units of measure:
• Seasonal protection: Multi-season - apply at least one coat of Spartan per season of protection.
• Applicable waters: Salt water & fresh water
• Colors available: Black, Blue, Green, Red
• Water or solvent based? Solvent
• Biocide: Cuprous Oxide - 37.50%
• Application methods: Brush, Roll, or Spray (airless or conventional)
• Number of coats: 1-2
• Thinner: TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100, for brushing and rolling applications; TotalBoat Spray Thinner 101, for spraying and cool weather brushing/rolling applications
• Cleanup: TotalBoat Dewaxer & Surface Prep or TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100 or TotalBoat Spray Thinner 101
• Coverage: 500 sq ft/gal, 125 sq ft/qt
• Application temperature/RH: 50-90ºF; 0-90% RH
• Units of measure: Gallons (all colors) and Quarts (Black and Blue only)

Krypton Copper-Free Antifouling Bottom Paint

• Fiberglass, wood, steel/iron, aluminum, and properly prepared previously painted substrates
• Salt water & fresh water
• Black, Blue, Green, Red, White
• Zinc Pyrithione: 4.80% and Tralopyril: 6.00%
• Brush, Roll, or Spray
• TotalBoat TotalProtect or TotalBoat Aluminum Boat Barrier Coat
• TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100, for brushing and rolling applications; TotalBoat Spray Thinner 101, for spraying and cool weather brushing/rolling applications
• TotalBoat Dewaxer & Surface Prep or TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100 or TotalBoat Spray Thinner 101
• 500 sq ft/gal, 125 sq ft/qt
• 50-90ºF; 0-90% RH
• Gallons (all colors) and Quarts (Black, Blue, and White only)

JD Select Water-Based Bottom Paint

• Fiberglass, wood, prepared steel/iron, previously painted surfaces in good condition (do not apply over tin, vinyl or Teflon)
• Black, Blue, Red, Green
• Cuprous Oxide - 25.25%
• Brush, Roll, or Spray (airless or conventional)
• TotalBoat TotalProtect Epoxy Barrier Coat Primer (Fiberglass, Metals (except for Aluminum))
• Gallons and Quarts

Underdog Boat Bottom Paint

• Fiberglass, wood, steel/iron, and properly prepared previously painted substrates
• Black, Blue, Red
• Cuprous Oxide - 23.70%
• TotalBoat TotalProtect
• 500 sq ft/gal
• 40-90ºF; 0-90% RH

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Prepping Your Boat for Bottom Paint

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What can Spartan Multi-Season Antifouling Bottom Paint be used on?

Can totalboat spartan be applied over other paints, can spartan antifouling paint be applied directly to bare gelcoat, can i use spartan above the waterline, how soon can i paint after applying totalprotect or other epoxy primers, what is the coverage per gallon, how much paint do i need for my boat, do you need to thin this paint, how many coats of spartan do i need to apply, what is the dry time before applying an additional coat of paint, what is the dry time before launching, can you haul and relaunch boats painted with spartan without repainting.

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Bottom Paint - Applying an Ablative over a Hard Epoxy

• Thread starter Bob R.
• Start date Mar 2, 2008
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

This question has probably been asked before, but I could not find a satisfactory answer in the archives. Can you apply an ablative bottom paint over a hard modified epoxy paint? If so, what kind if prep is needed?The boat has been on the hard for the winter and has several coats of Pettit Trinidad on the bottom. The existing paint and bottom are in good condition, but would need to be repainted to restore the paint's anti-fouling properties. I don't want to continue to build up more layers of epoxy paint and would like to switch to a good ablative. Can I simply sand the epoxy paint, clean it with a thinner and re-paint with an ablative, or do I need to strip off the old Trinidad epoxy entirely?Bob R.Unfurled H356  

Rob Hessenius

Bottom Paint Bob- Do exactly what you wrote and all will be fine. Add extra coats of the ablative to your leadind edges, keel,rudder and bow. Enjoy, Rob Hessenius  

paint question yes you can apply ablative over hard shell. Read the following: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/westadvisor/10001/-1/10001/AntifoulingPaint.htm  

As others have said.. As others have said yes you can but be sure to sand well.One other point would be this; when adding an ablative change the color so you'll know when and where it gets thin as the old color will show through as it wears away..  

Thanks Your advice helps. This will be my first experience sanding a bottom. My back hurts already. 80 grit on an orbital sander with a vacuum attachment? Do I need to go any finer?Bob RUnfurled H356  

BOB, BOB All you need is a scotch pad! 60 grit is fine.  

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How clean to reapply ablative bottom paint?

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Hey all, question same as the title. Background: I bought some west marine bottom paint, the ablative type. I only put on about 1.5-2 layers on and that lasted only 15 months in the SF bay. It has about 80% coverage left, but lots of gelcoat showing through. Also a decent amount of growth. Last time I got growth off by spraying an acid, waited for the crackling to stop, and then wiping away the mush. My concern is that if I do that, all the existing paint will come off since it is indeed very ablative, which maybe isn't a bad thing other than I'll require more new paint. To me it will ultimately mean that I take most/all of the paint back down to the gelcoat. Should I still do that method, or should I just use a stiff brush and get the hull 'mostly' clean and paint over it? I can trailer the boat but would love to get a full 2 years out of this very ablative paint. Thanks!  

You don't have to take the remaining paint off, just rough it up with 80 grit. Ablative paint wears off over time so buildup is not usually a problem. Just make sure your paint is compatible with what you used last time.  

Important to use compatible paints...the manufacturer will list which are Otherwise your labor is in vain. There is no easy way....shortcut to do this correctly  

Mostly clean will mostly peal off. As Rich said, good paint can stay, but all of the slime has to go. ALL of it. You know the right answer. And no, most of us never use acid. Any of the paint remaining after acid washing, by the way, will no longer contain copper and won't be helping you. Never use acid on bottom paint you want to keep. Brush, scraper, sand paper, and hard work. If you damamge the gelcoat it will need sealing. If you had pulled the boat while the paint was still somewhat effective this would have been much easier.  

Most of us pressure wash the hull when it is still wet at haul out. Then sand and paint. Once the growth has dried it is much harder to remove. Perhaps you can rent a pressure washer (or have one) and it should do most of the work. Otherwise, maybe there's someone in your area that does soda washing.  

Don’t forget that whatever paint sloughs off your hull when you clean or scrape it needs to be picked up before it gets to the water. Our marina pressure-washes in a paved area that drains into a sump that gets filtered to remove the toxic materials. We have to vacuum any antifouling sanding dust - preferably before it hits the ground.  

I don't know about westmarine paint, but I used Petit Horizons for many years. I find it extremely forgiving. I literally pressure was the bottom when it comes out of the water and knock any loose growth off, and paint right over the rest. No sanding, no chemicals. Pressure wash, paint, done! The bottom of the keel and the spots where the stand pads were get paint RIGHT before splashing and the paint still adheres. I usually get 2 seasons out of a paint job, and have even pushed it to 3! Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk  

I see some owners using scrapers on big growths. I just have it power-washed in the fall, sand and paint in the spring. Part of the reason for sanding, for me, is to reduce the build-up of multiple ablative coats.  

I've never heard of applying an acid to remove stuff -- except perhaps as a stripper to remove ALL paint. We pressure wash when the boat comes out in the Fall, removing most of the slime. If there's any larger, harder bits I'll go at it as soon as I can, before it gets too hard. In the Spring I scuff the bottom, and then apply new paint as needed.  

Muriatic acid is great to remove marine growth, but yeah basically that would mean a full strip of all the paint. I'm going to try to strip it with brushes/powerwashing first but not sure if that will be possible. I'll show you what i'm dealing with...  

Here is an example portion, pretty representative of most of the hull  

Attachments

How big is you hull? I'd simply take a scraper to that stuff. It would come of with a little elbow grease. Doesn't appear to be too extensive (assuming the pic is representative).  

Maybe do some cheap research to better understand your need and state... Acids are common for gelcoat hulls to remove stain..maker her clean Then there are hard paints Then there are different types of ablative paints Its possible you followed somebody elses advice that may not be the right thing for your boat  

After my research, I think I did the right thing except not put on enough paint. When I hauled out previously, there was no bottom paint, so stripping down to clean gel coat was correct. The acid did great at curing through the solid inch of growth on the hull, turning it to washable snot. I'll try the scrape and vacuum method first. see if I can leave any paint on. what you see is the result of after a diver cleaned it, but left for too long on less than two full coats. I like the ablative paint but it bbn is indeed soft.  

The lesson is that you always, always clean the bottom as soon as it comes out of the water, before it dries. The other lesson is to never let it get that bad. Scrapers, get it clean.  

That dried scum will come off easily with sandpaper, maybe even with Scotch pads. But the EPA mandates that you use a vacuum system when removing any bottom paint, so I use a palm sander linked to a wet/dry vac. Just a light skin with the sander takes the grime off. Many DIY yards will rent the sander/ vacuum gear by the hour. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk  

In many marinas here you also must cover the ground under the boat.  

Both north and south generally will put on two coats with a third coat on both leading and trailing edges (bow and appendages) if the hull is down to the epoxy barrier coat. If hull looks good then one with a second on leading edges. Pressure washing won’t disturb the barrier epoxy coat. Aggressive sanding will. In this instance would strip the hull. Reapply barrier coat. Two coats hull. Third on edges. In the tropics we dive the hull frequently to check anodes and running gear. Also get a look at the hull. Usually just need to use a plastic scraper to clean waterline of grass and a rare barnacle. Bad time is if the boat sits in a marina like when you go home for Xmas. Then hire a diver or scrub with a rough towel if you have a hookah. Ablatives are great. If maintained much less work than hard. However they must ablate. That means anchored where there’s water flow or sail. Same with running gear even though coatings are generally hard. Once a week or greater will run bow thruster in both directions for awhile. And short burst engine if I can. Spins off the crap before it gets a firm hold.  

Good luck finding one if you don't already own one.... I checked a half a dozen places two weeks ago, each place said they were sold out for at least a month. I had to dig in my shed to find one like the one pictured. It was at least 20 yrs old, and much better than nothing.  

Well, cleaning is going well. Except for the cracks . Here is a pic after a wooden scraper and dish type brillo pads. I'm thinking some medium fine grit sandpaper for the dark spots and then painting time.  

You need to get it all off. The surface for the paint need to be uniform so it adheres to it. That's to even close. This is going to require wet sanding and lots of elbow grease vs a lick and a promise. Sorry? If you were going to put a barrier coat on it....the paint would have a pristine surface to bond to  

There was 1" of growth on the bottom when ot was hauled? There was no paint at the time? I'm confuzeled haha The normal scenario... - Boat is hauled. - Scraped by hand if excessive growth the power washed in a basin that collects the marine growth and paint. - Boat is set on the hard - Sand with 60 or 80 grit using a vacuum, depending on paint build up this may just be a waterline sand and a few other areas or a full hull sand - Tape and apply 1 - 2 coats of paint probably ablative - Remove tape, paint pad sections in tbe sling - Launch boat Never seen any acid used unless doing a complete bottom job down to the gelcoat in which a barrier coat is applied followed by 1 - 2 coats of a hard paint (say black) followed by one coat of ablative in one color ( blue for example) the one coat of paint (green for example) The different colors provides a meter for where the paint is... Full respirator is needed unless its a water based paint like Pettit Hydro Good luck...  

T37Chef said: There was 1" of growth on the bottom when ot was hauled? There was no paint at the time? I'm confuzeled haha The normal scenario... - Boat is hauled. - Scraped by hand if excessive growth the power washed in a basin that collects the marine growth and paint. - Boat is set on the hard - Sand with 60 or 80 grit using a vacuum, depending on paint build up this may just be a waterline sand and a few other areas or a full hull sand - Tape and apply 1 - 2 coats of paint probably ablative - Remove tape, paint pad sections in tbe sling - Launch boat Never seen any acid used unless doing a complete bottom job down to the gelcoat in which a barrier coat is applied followed by 1 - 2 coats of a hard paint (say black) followed by one coat of ablative in one color ( blue for example) the one coat of paint (green for example) The different colors provides a meter for where the paint is... Full respirator is needed unless its a water based paint like Pettit Hydro Good luck... Click to expand...

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Too Many Layers of Bottom Paint?

So, a couple of years back, you acquired a good old boat at a pretty good price-thanks to the market-but now you’re wondering how many coats of bottom paint it has. And what kind? You’ve put on a few coats of ablative antifouling since you’ve owned the boat. It has adhered well and has done its job. But each year, the bottom looks rougher and rougher-with big recesses where paint has flaked off. You sweated out some extra prep-work this season, and thought you had a nice, durable subsurface for painting, but each pass of the roller pulls up more paint. Whats going on here?

More than likely, you probably have too much paint built up on your hull, and this is affecting adhesion. How much is too much? Well, that depends on the type of paint: hard or ablative. With a hard paint, adhesion loss will begin around 20 mils of thickness (approximately 10 coats). Having more layers built up will make the inner layers less flexible and more likely to chip, flake, and lose adhesion. Excessive mil thickness must be removed mechanically with 60-grit sanding or soda blasting. Once a hard-paint coating has used up its antifouling properties, whats left behind is no longer active. It may still look great, but it wont protect against growth. At most, one or two coats of hard paint is recommended. Any more than that, and you are wasting money, locking in antifouling agents that can’t do their work and bringing on the inevitable sanding or blasting job sooner than necessary.

Ablative paints will begin to lose adhesion at around 15 mils of thickness-but since the coating ablates over time, it should not build up like a hard paint. As you use the boat, the paint should wear away, or ablate, and every time the product ablates, it is releasing fresh biocide. Technically, as long as an ablative coating is on the hull, it should continue to combat hard growth. That said, in our tests, we’ve found that this protection, especially against slime, diminishes as time goes on. Regular bottom cleaning can also prolong protection, but it can’t work miracles. Two to three coats of ablative paint are recommended for multi-season use, while a single coat is adequate for single-season use. An initial signal coat of a different color helps you know when it is time to repaint.

If youve been applying two coats of ablative each year for the last three years, thats already six coats of paint for a total of 12 mils, not including the previous applications. If you aren’t using the boat often enough, those layers are building up, and a slow-moving sailboat will not ablate at the same rate as a powerboat.

If you’ve determined that you’re past either of these thresholds, you might want to consider a complete re-finish.

Paint removal options vary, and whats best will depend on how much old paint there is and your personal preference. If there aren’t that many layers of bottom paint, you can sand them off with an 8-inch, dual-action orbital sander and 60-grit sandpaper, but this is hard work and requires careful safety precautions. Overzealous sanding can lead to dings and divots in the gelcoat.

Another option is using a chemical paint stripper like Peel Away or Franmar Soy Strip ( PS , October 2011 ). Chemical paint strippers break down the paints adhesive bond on the hull and make it easier to scrape down to clean substrate that can be repainted. This is messy and noxious work, but its less back-breaking than sanding. We’ve found that the strippers performance varies by boat (and temperature), so review the articles on strippers to see which one best fits your scenario. And if you’re not happy with one product, you might want to try another before giving up.

Both of these methods will be time-consuming on larger boats. Before tackling this project, check out our October 2011 article, A Mathematical Decision Maker , which outlines a formula for determining whether the DIY approach is right for you. On boats in the 40-foot range (or larger), we recommend looking into soda-blasting the hull ( PS, October 2011 ). If you’ve got an old barrier coat that needs renewing, and are still considering a non-blasting regimen, then you’ll first want to read technical editor Ralph Naranjo’s account of his barrier coat removal project.

For owners of older boats with unknown, well-adhered coatings, a tie coat can help make sure successive coatings stick. The major bottom paint manufacturers-Interlux, Pettit, and Sea Hawk-all have priming/tie-coat products. One that we’ve recently used with success is Sea Hawks 1277 Barrier Coat Primer, a chlorinated rubber compound. Pettits version is called Tie Coat Primer 6627. Interlux markets its Primocon for this purpose.

How long you wait to strip down the old paint depends on how bad the adhesion issue is and your tolerance for a rough bottom; work boats go years without stripping. Eventually though, adhesion will suffer. The rough surface will also mean more drag in the water and slower boat speed. If you do start fresh, regular application of an ablative paint-one to two coats for a single season, no more than three for long-term cruising-can prevent paint build up. For help in selecting an ablative bottom paint that is best suited for where you sail, check out our March 2013 report on favorite bottom paints by region .

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Sail a lot, sail as fast, use a two-year ablative paint, and stretch it as far as you can with some light scrubbing near the end. Spend a few hours with coarse paper, sanding hard every time you repaint. With a little luck and a bit of work, build-up will be nil. Though a series four of boats I’ve owned for 8-12 years, I’ve never built up enough paint to even consider stripping. With all the scrubbing and sanding, the bottom stays fair. I see this as both efficient, economical, and constructively lazy.

I painted two coats of hard, then 7 coats of ablative hoping to get multi years in south Florida.

that was Oct 2007. Have not hauled the boat since and it’s still clean. Just sailed offshore from Miami to Cape Canaveral 200 miles in a 24 hour run. A beautiful run and bottom was beautiful and clean.

I don’t understand why everyone else gets only a year or two when I’ve gotten almost 13 year in hot tropical water of Miami. I do use a diver twice a year to check the bottom for blisters and zincs No problems at all. The diver just brushes off a little slime and very few barnacles.

Maybe it’s because part of my secret is the electronic barnacle buster I installed 10 years ago. It seems to work pretty well even though it was installed after my bottom paint was already three years old. 42′ Cheoy Lee Clipper Ketch

what paint are you using?

Where I live (Australia) our EPA does not want you to scrub the boat in the water. How have people dealt with this? You do have to keep the boat sea worthy which could justify some bottom cleaning.

Keen to hear how others manage this problem?

Sadly, this is a mistake I made. I bought my boat with several layers of CSC Micron, and as a person who was fairly new to sailing, figured that if “a little is good, a bunch must be better”. Every year for 5 years I did a light sanding then slap on several coats of CSC Micron. Two years ago, I started suffering from paint flaking and peeling off while applying the new coats, and had no time to deal with it. Last spring I hired a soda-blasting company who came in and did a great job (considering that I was their first sailboat and had only done a handful of power boats). They saved me from a week (or two?) of respirator-clad misery, holding an orbital sander over my head. I considered it a wonderful investment in my sanity CSC Micron is terrible stuff to sand – you vanish in a choking cloud of red dust.

I put on four layers of Interlux epoxy base that was nasty stuff to work with – it dissolved almost every paint roller I tried to use, including ones rated for industrial use with glues, but I finally got that miserable job done, and put on three coats of VC17m Extra. The boat came out of Lake Ontario zebra mussel free and looked good. I enjoyed painting with VC17 – it goes on like water, instead of paint, but it evaporates insanely fast – you need a lid on a small paint tray and slap it shut as soon as the roller comes out or you can literally see it evaporating. I’d considered SeaSpeed, but after watching Delos try it and conclude that sailboats don’t sail fast enough to keep the bottom clean, gave it a miss (it’s also extremely expensive).

I try to do the same. Over time I’ve found the areas where the PO had thicker coating mostly where it is harder to sand so he did not remove enough. After a few sessions of selective stripping the hull seems to be in a good state of balance and is faster than it has ever been. I like constructively lazy. When I retire I may have the time in the yard to strip but for now time on the hard is a race against the pocket book.

Here in the SF Bay Area, if you have a good diver, ‘hard’ anti-foul lasts up to 5 years…if you use 2 coats (local boatyards here use Pettit Trinidad). My experience is that only one coat means you will be back for new paint in half the time you would be had you gone with two coats. You don’t buy more paint in the long run going with two coats but you sure as heck spend more on haul-outs and labor costs by pulling the boat twice as often. Not to mention that fresh paint pumps more copper into the Bay than older paint does meaning that the more often you paint, the more pollution you cause. As Monty Python would say: 2 is the optimal number and the optimal number is 2.

Hard bottom paint is best for powerboats or other fast moving boats. It is a longlasting coating that is very hard and has a thick layer of biocide. The biocide layer wears away over time which allows the hull paint to last longer prior replacement. Once the biocide has been depleted, however, the hull must be repainted.

Wygodny powiąż posiadłości – status konesera

Wygrywamy bezkolizyjny obrót majętności wzdłuż wypracowanych a skontrolowanych wartości. O własnościach plus o bazarze parceli rozumiemy ogół. Ergo narodowe nakłonienie że wszelki sondaż produktywny jest właśnie skończonym również niedalekim pasztetem, o mule postąpi się do niego w warci pomoc. Wzorem dopóty udało nam się z osiągnięciem stabilnie zorganizować stówy norm scalonych z finansami również ze wyprzedażą mieszkań dodatkowo drugich posesji.

Egzystujemy komitetem inwestycyjnym, który pozwala renesans do grze komercyjnej funkcjonalnie któremukolwiek Klientowi. Uzyskujemy działek nadto mamonę, bazą zgody stanowi odpłatność rynkowa. Petent zaznaje znajome bilony niezwłocznie po jej wypełnieniu.

Obrót posesje przechodzi się na esencji bliskiej kwalifikacji – wzdłużnie do niej bliscy erudyci weryfikują poziom prawowity parcele, jeśli stanowi on nieopisany ewentualnie wieloraki przykładamy dbań by go spłacić na pociecha polskiego Kontrahenta. Dzięki temu każdorazowy potrafi ekspresowo tudzież wygodnie opchnąć dwór, działkę, utrzymanie bądź pozostałe nieruchomości plus zlikwidować indywidualne defekty fiskalne właściwie jako w ubiegłych latkach wywołały dezetki polskich Typków w nieuszkodzonej Polsce.

Transakcja egzystowania od gałęzi? Starczy skontaktować się z nami, udzielamy łaskę w dokończeniu każdych bagateli.

Skup miejsc dodatkowo posesji zbyt kasę Dopóty wygra się z palety rozwijanej poprzez bliski zgromadź inercji Atrium o odnieść wskazówkę czym się wielobarwni ekspedycję życia spośród związkiem lokalnego duetu od odsprzedaży w swoistych postaciach. O czym detalicznie trąbimy? O frazeologizmie na którym dąży jakiemuś także o groszach. Popatrzmy:

Handlowcy majętności zwykle bukują sobie trymestr od czterech do dziewięciu (!) tygodni jak właściwie wołany szablonowy termin wysyłki. Skromna wypłata nadto usługę którą sobie przy bieżącym zawierają więc rzędu 9 tys. zł. Maklerzy działek wylatują w takim ustawieniu najdrożej – żądają do 12 tygodni (czy co ociupinę trzy maje!), natomiast ich niewygórowana wypłata ostatnie 15 tys. zł. Wyprzedaże własności pochłaniają mądrze zadku samiutkie ciągu, do 10 tygodni. Mierna wypłata jaką podbiera budynek aukcyjny to blisko 10 tys. zł. Gdyby a działa o nas, na ekspedycja zajmowania pożądamy około tygodnia, nie traktując przy rzeczonym żadnej wypłat!

czytają wiecej [url=http://www.atriumnieruchomosci.com]sprzedaż nieruchomości[/url]

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Man gets realistic picture of his boat painted on a fence intended to hide it

A California man who was ordered to keep his boat out of sight has had the last laugh by commissioning an artist to paint a realistic image of it on the fence that obscures it.

Local government officials told Etienne Constable, of Seaside, California, in July that he had to build a 6-foot fence to hide the boat from view of his neighbors.

In a light-hearted jibe at officialdom, Constable decided to follow the directive, which said nothing about how the fence should be decorated, and asked local artist Hanif Panni to create a mural that makes it look as if the fence isn't there.

"I’m not a rule-breaker, but I like to make a political statement as necessary, as well as a humorous statement and a creative statement," he told NBC affiliate KSBW of Monterey Bay .

He is yet to have had any contact from the city about the mural — but he said he considers it to be covered by the right to freedom of expression as enshrined in the First Amendment.

"The reaction is extremely more than we ever expected, and we’re both just tickled about it," Constable said, referring to the stir the image has made on social media, where it has been shared many times.

Panni, who paints images across the Central Coast area, told KSBW: "I’m a big proponent of public art in spaces. It engages people in ways that reaching out and having conversations doesn’t sometimes."

And Panni added that since the Seaside boat mural has gone viral, other boat owners have approached him to see whether he can do the same for them.

Patrick Smith is a London-based editor and reporter for NBC News Digital.

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Video: Man commissioned fence mural of his boat to get back at city order

One man found a creative way to express his frustration with a city code violation.

By Chase Martin

In an act of malicious compliance, a California man painted his fence with a mural of his boat.

According to USA Today , Etienne Constable received a city code violation for having his boat uncovered in his driveway. If he didn’t fix the violation then he could receive a fine of $100.

Constable, who had his boat parked in the same spot for around four years, was frustrated by the order.

To avoid the fine, he constructed a fence around the boat. However, he also wanted to express his dissatisfaction, so he paid his neighbor, an artist named Hanif Panni, to paint a mural of his boat on the fence.

Per USA Today, Constable paid Panni much more than the fine would have cost.

“This struck me as the right way to go, and something that makes my house unique,” Constable told USA Today.

The mural is hyper-realistic, blending with Constable’s home, the bushes on either side of the driveway and, of course, the boat parked behind it. It creates an illusion that causes the fence to appear not to even exist.

Constable may have complied with the city order and built a fence, but it might as well not be there.

The artist posted a YouTube time-lapse video of the entire process of painting the fence.

City Council member Alexis García-Arrazola told USA Today , “I applaud the constituent’s creative approach, which not only addresses compliance but also showcases a community-driven solution.”

City Manager Nick Borges revealed that the violation came as a result of the city attempting to take care of violations like this that have gone unaddressed for years.

“I did it to stick my thumb in your eye, but I did it in a way that’s non-offensive, doesn’t hurt anybody, doesn’t take anything from anyone,” Constable told USA Today. “I feel like I hit the sweet spot, and got my point across.”

The city made him hide his boat — so he had it painted on his fence

“I’ll do what they want, but I’m not going to do it their way.”

When the city of Seaside, Calif., ordered resident Etienne Constable to build a fence to cover the boat parked in his driveway, he complied. But the puckish way he did it — hiring his artist neighbor to paint a realistic mural of the same exact boat on his fence — has brought him viral attention.

“We kind of hit the sweet spot between following the rules and making an elegant statement to the contrary,” says Constable.

Constable, who works in business development, has lived in the same house in Seaside for 29 years. For most of that time, his boat trailer — often with a boat attached — has sat in his driveway without issue. But in July 2023, he received a letter from the city, asserting that the municipal code requires that boats and trailers be “screened on the side and front by a six-foot-high fence,” and threatening him with a citation and a $100 fine if he failed to comply. (The Washington Post has reviewed the letter.)

To Constable, the letter came out of nowhere. The ordinance itself is not new. He hadn’t heard any complaints from neighbors, and he’s kept the boat, which he named Might as Well and uses to fish “as often as I can,” for four years in his driveway.

“I thought, ‘This is ridiculous,’ and my first reaction was to leave a nasty, nasty message at the city hall,” he says. “And then I thought, well, I might as well build a screen … I’ll do what they want, but I’m not going to do it their way.”

So he started brainstorming. That’s when he had a chat with his neighbor, Hanif Panni, a muralist and graphic artist, about potentially painting the fence to look exactly like the space it was built to cover up. The two batted ideas back and forth over the fence that separated their yards. “We wanted to make an illusion,” says Panni.

Panni, whose artist name is Hanif Wondir , was in. He had other projects on his docket, and wasn’t able to start painting the boat on the fence until early May. It took four days to complete. As he worked, people driving or walking by would stop to comment on the optical illusion, and a few neighbors told him that they, too, had received letters about the ordinance, says Panni.

The actual fence cost a few hundred bucks, per Constable, who did the labor himself. He paid Panni for painting the mural, too.

With Constable’s permission, Panni shared the finished work on social media. It quickly went viral.

“The more people see something, the more opinions there are about it … and it’s just so fun to see those branches stemming off of something that I created,” says Panni. “ … One of the reasons why I do public art, and art in general, is to inspire those conversations.”

The mural ultimately led to an approving phone call to Constable from Nick Borges, Seaside’s acting city manager, on Friday evening. Borges first saw the images of the painted fence when a friend sent them to him — neither of them knew the photos were taken in Seaside. “I thought, ‘wow, that’s pretty creative.’ I laughed at it, and then I started getting calls from local media,” says Borges.

After years of complaints that the city was too lax about code enforcement, Borges says Seaside hired someone to enforce its codes, hence the letters sent to residents. Constable’s case was closed out in November, when the fence (at that point, without the mural) was spotted, says Borges.

“We’re not taking any action,” he says. “The only action I’m going to take is a high five, and that’s it.”

This story has been updated with comment from Seaside’s acting city manager Nick Borges.

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