steel hull sailboat for bluewater

Messing about in boats since 1975.  Online Since 1997.

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METAL BOATS For Blue Water Introduction | Which Metal...? | Aesthetics & Hull Form | Design Features Scantling Calcs & Framing | Advantages of NC Cutting | Corrosion Protection | Conclusion   Introduction This essay is intended to bring to light a few of the issues surrounding the use of metal for boats. You can access any of the specific topics via the links above. While the pros and cons of various metals expressed here are quite relevant to one's choice of hull material, they are also central to the actual process of designing and building in metal, whether one chooses in favor of steel, aluminum, copper nickel, monel, stainless, or what have you... The following is therefore not solely aimed at potential metal boat owners, but also at boat builders and designers who may wish to make better use of metal as a structural material for boats.   Which Metal...? One of the primary choices one will face when considering metal is just which metal to use, where to use it, and what metals are best suited to each vessel type . To begin the discussion, here are a few brief thoughts with regard to steel versus aluminum. If an existing boat design is being considered, in other words a vessel that already has a fixed hull shape, then we can very generally observe the following: In terms of sea kindliness, some boats may be better if built in steel, due mainly to the extreme lightness of aluminum, which in some hulls may result in a more active / harsh motion. This is the case to a greater degree with larger boats or very beamy boats. Provided that the design has adequate displacement and stability to carry the added structural weight, boats in general will have a more gentle motion at sea if built in steel. This is not only due to the additional weight, but also to the distribution of that weight towards the perimeter, resulting in a greater roll moment of inertia. On the other hand, somewhat narrower or lighter displacement boats will often be best if constructed of aluminum. They'll generally have a narrower waterplane, and so less inherent shape stability. Therefore, due to having a relatively narrower waterline, they will react less avidly to the water's surface contours (waves), and will have a relatively easier motion at sea. In order to have sufficient stability, weight must be kept down, favoring an aluminum structure. It is usually a simple matter to adapt a steel vessel design to being built in aluminum, since the resulting vessel will have a lower center of gravity and enhanced stability (less structural weight, more ballast). But a design that has been optimized for aluminum construction will not ordinarily be able to be built in steel, due to the substantially greater weight of structure. The exception is an aluminum vessel that has been designed with relatively heavier displacement than needed. If we were to start from scratch and create a new design, we have the chance to optimize the hull form to take best advantage of the preferred material. With steel , we must design a hull with sufficient displacement to carry the structure. At 490 pounds per cubic foot, the weight of a steel structure adds up very quickly indeed. For smaller vessels, say below around 35 feet, this makes for a fairly heavy displacement. In larger sizes, say above 40 feet, one can make excellent use of steel. Above 45 feet and steel structure begins to come into its own. Above around 50 feet, a steel hull can actually be quite light for her length (by traditional cruising vessel standards). I have somewhat arbitrarily given the lower limit of a good steel vessel as being around 35 feet of length. This is of course not a fixed limit. The boundary of what can be built in steel is less a matter of boat length than it is a matter of shape and displacement. With proper design, one can successfully create a steel boat for coastwise or blue water sailing down to around 28 to 30 feet LOD.  Smaller is actually possible but compromises must be made...! Adequate displacement must be maintained to carry the structure, and thus draft and beam may not be decreased below a certain point. Therefore, roughly below around 30 feet the boat will require rather heavy displacement, likely resulting in a less graceful shape in order to carry the structure. There will be that much less carrying capacity remaining for fuel, water, and the desired number of sandwiches and beer...! For small vessels of say less than around 40 feet, one can make a very convincing argument in favor of aluminum . At 168 pounds per cubic foot, we can easily make use of greater plate thickness without much of a weight penalty, and still have a light weight structure.   When built to the same strength standard as a steel vessel, a bare aluminum hull "as fabricated" will weigh some 30% less than an equivalent steel hull. As an added bonus, the lighter weight of aluminum will permit a given hull form to be built with much greater strength than the same hull in steel. In other words, given the same weight budget an aluminum structure will be able to increase scantlings in order to have a considerably higher strength than the same design in steel. What other materials can be considered...?  Any design optimized for steel construction can be readily adapted to being built in Copper Nickel or Monel without having to make changes to the hull shape. The overall weights will turn out to be within a similar range and the placement of internal framing will usually be identical or extremely similar. We can also say that any design that has been optimized for aluminum construction could be adapted to the use of Titanium for the hull structure without requiring any hull shape changes. A titanium structure having an equivalent strength to a steel structure will be approximately 40% lighter than the steel structure, and roughly 10% lighter than an aluminum structure. Since we know from experience that "form follows budget" the choice of materials for a boat's structure ultimately comes down to a question of cost, which we will consider below.   Steel Mild Steel: Due to fabrication issues, one cannot readily make use of less than 10 gauge mild steel plating (0.134 inch, or 3.5 mm). Even 10 gauge mild steel plating can be very problematic to keep fair. It will have much greater distortion levels while welding than plate of a greater thickness. Even so, with a few essential metal boat building tricks learned, it is not much trouble to avoid distortion altogether in a 10 gauge steel hull.  With a few innovative approaches to the arrangement of structure, even less thickness is possible, down to say 12 gauge mild steel.  For an amateur builder however, working in 10 gauge mild steel without knowledge of a few essential tricks, the result will often be excess distortion. The natural temptation then is to use greater plating thickness, but there must be adequate displacement to carry the greater weight. A design intended for 10 gauge steel will be grossly over-weight if the plating is arbitrarily increased to, say, 3/16 inch, and it will neither float at the intended waterline, nor be able to carry the required amount of ballast, and as a result it will not have the intended stability. It turns out that in the battle against distortion, it is better to use a few more strategically placed longitudinals. Other tricks will also ordinarily be employed to preserve fairness, such as temporary external long's, etc. In general it is possible to design and build very fine steel boats down to around 35 feet (give or take a few feet), these smaller vessels will necessarily make use of 10 gauge mild steel plate and they will therefore necessarily require much greater skill in building. If the vessel can be large enough, say over 45 feet, or of sufficiently heavy displacement, then 3/16 inch mild steel plating can be used to advantage (just under 5 mm) and will be far easier to keep fair. For boats above 60 feet, 1/4 inch plate can be used and the boat will still be lighter than one could achieve with traditional plank on frame wood construction. Corten Steel: For smaller steel vessels that must use 10 gauge steel for plating, one can make a very good case for using Corten steel. Corten has about 40% greater yield strength than mild steel. This means that 10 gauge Corten plate will resist welding distortion and denting more or less the same as 3/16" mild steel plate. The higher yield strength is the primary justification for the use of Corten steel for metal boats, rather than imagining there to be any possible corrosion benefits. Although Corten tends to rust much more slowly than mild steel, whether a boat is built of mild steel or of Corten steel it still must be sandblasted and painted everywhere both inside and out. Corten is just as easy to weld and cut as mild steel, so aside from the slightly greater cost of Corten, it is to be recommended for all steel vessels having a steel plate thickness of less than 3/16 inch. "Cor-Ten A" is also known as ASTM A-242, which is an older specification for the current ASTM A-606 (usually for sheet under 3/16") and ASTM A-588 (usually for plate over 3/16" thickness). ASTM A-588 is also known as "Cor-Ten B" and is the more commonly encountered current spec for Cor-Ten, with a minimum yield strength of 50k psi in plates of greater thickness. An alloy sometimes specified for low temperature applications is "Tri-Ten" also known as ASTM A-441. An alternate (newer) spec for this alloy is A-607 when referring to sheet, or A-572 and A-572-M when referring to plate. "Tri-Ten" alloys contain a small amount of vanadium (A-572), or they may contain both vanadium and manganese (A-572-M). The addition of these alloying elements allows these steels to achieve greater strength by producing a more refined microstructure as compared with plain carbon steel (mild steel). The alloying elements provide a smaller crystalline grain size and a fine dispersion of alloyed carbides, thus providing higher yield strength without sacrificing ductility. High Strength Low Alloy (HSLA) Steel Common Names & Properties HSLA STRUCTURAL STEELS ASTM A572-50 EX-TEN 50 Offers 50k PSI minimum yield. ASTM A441 TRI-TEN Offers 50k PSI minimum yield. Resistance to atmospheric corrosion twice that of carbon steel. ASTM A242 COR-TEN A Resistance to atmospheric corrosion four times that of carbon steel. Excellent paint adhesion. ASTM A588-A COR-TEN B Similar to A242. Modified chemistry offers 50k PSI minimum yield. Resistance to atmospheric corrosion four times that of carbon steel.

In General:  The advantages of steel can be summarized as follows...

• Steel is more rugged than aluminum, being tougher and much more abrasion resistant.
• The various HSLA steels are even more so.
• Welds in steel are 100% the strength of the surrounding plates, whether mild steel or Corten.
•  Steel is more "noble" than aluminum, making steel less prone to electrolysis and allowing a steel hull to use regular copper bottom paint.  

Aluminum is light, strong, corrosion resistant, non sparking, conducts electricity and heat well, and is readily weldable by MIG or TIG processes. In terms of ease of construction, aluminum is excellent. It can be cut with carbide tipped power tools, dressed with a router, filed and shaped easily, and so forth. Aluminum is light, clean, and easy to work with.

Aluminum is therefore faster to fabricate than steel and welding aluminum is a very quick process, both resulting in a labor savings. In terms of thickness, 3/16 inch (around 5 mm) is generally considered the minimum plate thickness for MIG welding. However, if pulsed MIG welding is available then 5/32 inch plating (4 mm) can be used, particularly for deck and house structures.

Pound for pound, the cost of aluminum is much greater than steel. In 2012, aluminum in the 5000 and 6000 series costs between USD $3.00 and $3.50 per pound and pre-primed steel plate costs round USD $0.80 per pound.

Since the weight of an aluminum structure will be some 30% lighter than an equivalent steel structure, considering only the cost of materials an aluminum structure will still be roughly 2.5 times that of the equivalent steel structure. That aluminum is faster to fabricate and weld does help to reduce that ratio after labor costs are factored in.

Since aluminum is much lighter than steel, there is the option to use much greater plate thickness within a given weight budget, which means that not only can the overall strength be greater than with steel, but the distortion levels can be much more easily managed. In so doing, of course the cost will be proportionally greater.

Aluminum alloys for use on boats are generally limited to the 5000 and the 6000 series. These two alloy groups are very corrosion resistant in the marine environment due to the formation of a tough aluminum oxide. These alloys are subject to pitting, but the pitting action slows as the oxide film thickens with age.

Aluminum alloys are subject to crevice corrosion, since they depend on the presence of Oxygen to repair themselves. What this means is that wherever aluminum is in contact with anything, even another piece of aluminum or zinc, it must be cleaned, properly prepared, and painted with an adhesive waterproof paint like epoxy, then ideally also protected with a waterproof adhesive bedding such as Sikaflex or 3M-5200 to prevent water from entering the interface.

Paint preparation is critical. Thorough cleaning, and abrasive grit blasting will provide the best surface for adhesion of paint or bedding. Alternately, a thorough cleaning and then grinding with a coarse 16 grit disk will provide enough tooth for the paint to stay put.

Aluminum is anodic to all other commonly used metals except zinc and magnesium, and must be electrically isolated from other metals. A plastic wafer alone as an isolator is not sufficient. Salt water must be prevented from entering the crevice, which means that properly applied epoxy paint, adhesive bedding, and a non-conductive isolator should all be used together.

In aluminum, welds done in the shop are at best around 70% of the strength of the plate (in the 5000 series). Usually, one will compensate for the reduced strength in the heat affected zone either by providing a backup strip at any plate joint, and welding the plate joint thoroughly on both sides, or by providing additional longitudinal members to span any butt welds in the plating.

Ideally, plating butts will be located in the position of least stress. For most general plating, this is ordinarily at one quarter of the span between frames. In other words, with proper engineering and design, the reduced strength of aluminum in the heat affected zone is a non issue.

Aluminum hulls require special bottom paint. Organo-tin based anti-fouling paints can no longer be used as bottom paint except in such diluted formulations as to be nearly useless. Currently, the best antifouling paint for aluminum hulls is called "No-Foul EP-21" made by the E-Paint Company (800-258-5998). 

No-Foul EP-21 is an update of the original "No-Foul ZDF" both of which make use of a controlled release of hydrogen peroxide to prevent fouling. Practical Sailor Magazine did a controlled study of a large variety of anti-fouling paints over several years, during which they discovered that No-Foul ZDF outperformed ALL other antifouling paints during the first year of immersion in all waters. They also discovered that No-Foul ZDF performs significantly less well than the other AF paints during the second year... The conclusion? Refreshing the No-Foul coatings annually will result in a top performing system, as well as frequent inspection intervals for the hull.

The new formulation for No-Foul EP-21 is considered to be an improvement due to the addition of an environmentally preferred booster biocide that helps control slime and grass. Another improvement is the change from a vinyl binder to an epoxy. This makes the paint harder, and allows it to be applied over a wider variety of existing paints.

Other non-copper based anti-fouling technologies continue to appear, and they all should be considered provided that there are no metals present that are more noble than aluminum.

A big savings with aluminum is that it is ordinarily not necessary to sand blast or paint the inside of the hull. Generally, due to its very good conductivity one must insulate an aluminum hull extremely well. The most common insulation is blown-in polyurethane foam, although our present recommendations have drifted away from those materials.  In combination with a light primer or mastic, one can make an excellent case for the use of cut-sheet foams, such as Ensolite and Neoprene, where it is desirable to lightly blast the aluminum, and provide an epoxy primer or other barrier coating prior to insulating.

Various coatings for the interior of an aluminum boat are available which provide sound deadening and insulation. Two products in particular are Mascoat DTM for insulation, and Mascoat MSC for sound attenuation. Our preference is to use Mascoat MSC at 20 mils thickness throughout, with an additional 60 mils thickness in the engine room for sound attenuation. Then to apply Mascoat DTM at 120 mils thickness throughout over that as insulation. With this system it is not necessary to pre-paint the surfaces, nor to use additional insulation, although for colder waters a cut sheet foam can be added.

On the exterior , except on the bottom or locally where things are mounted onto the hull surface, it is completely unnecessary to paint an aluminum hull. This represents such a large cost savings that if the exterior is left unpainted, building in aluminum will often cost LESS than building the same vessel in steel. More or less, the cost difference amounts to the cost of painting the exterior of the aluminum hull...

We have already seen that a point in favor of aluminum is that a much lighter weight boat can be built than would be possible in steel. This is a performance advantage as well as a cost advantage. Not only will the lighter displacement boat be relatively less costly to build, it will also be much less costly to push through the water. Lighter weight means less horsepower is needed for the same speed, which means less fuel will be used to achieve the same range, both of which augment the overall savings in weight.

One might argue that with a lighter boat there will possibly be less room below, the lighter boat being narrower on the waterline, and possibly less deep. With proper planning, this need not be an issue.

On the plus side, even if an aluminum boat costs slightly more than a steel vessel to build (if painted), an aluminum boat will have a much higher re-sale value than a steel boat.  

Stainless Steel

I am occasionally asked, "What about building a boat in Stainless?"

A structure built in stainless will weigh approximately the same as one built in mild steel, although on occasion one may be able to make use of somewhat lighter scantlings due to the somewhat higher strength of stainless. There are several major drawbacks to the use of stainless, not the least of which is cost. Stainless of the proper alloy will cost nearly six times the price of mild steel!

Even if it were not so costly, stainless has numerous other problems:

• Stainless is quite difficult to cut, except by plasma arc.
• Stainless work hardens when being formed and can become locally tempered such as when being drilled.
• Stainless deforms rather extremely when heated either for cutting or for welding, meaning distortion will be very difficult to control.
• Stainless, even in the low carbon types, is subject to carbide precipitation in the heat affected zone adjacent to the weld, creating an area that is much more susceptible to corrosion as well as to cracking.
• Stainless is subject to crevice corrosion when starved of oxygen. This can be prevented only by sandblasting and painting the surfaces wherever an object is to be mounted onto the stainless surface. The same applies to the back side of any stainless fittings which are applied to hull surfaces.

If the above issues with stainless can be properly accounted for in the design and building of the vessel, then stainless can be a viable hull construction media.

Type 316-L stainless is generally the preferred alloy. Type 316-L is a low carbon alloy, and is used in welded structures to help prevent carbide precipitation in the heat affected zone. When available, the use of type 321 or 347 stainless will be of considerable benefit in preventing carbide precipitation, since there are other alloying elements (tantalum, columbium, or titanium) which help keep the carbides in solution during welding.

In my view, as a builder the main battle one will face is the rather extreme distortion levels when fabricating with stainless. Stainless conducts heat very slowly and has a high expansion rate. Both of these characteristics conspire against maintaining fairness during weld-up. Short arc MIG welding will be an imperative. In fact Pulsed MIG will probably be desired in order to sustain the right arc characteristics while lowering the overall heat input.  

Copper Nickel

Another material which should be considered along with steel, stainless, and aluminum is Copper Nickel. One can ignore paint altogether with CuNi, inside, outside, top and bottom. Copper Nickel acts as its own natural antifouling. In fact, bare Copper Nickel plate performs better than antifouling paint..!  Being a mirror-smooth surface, any minor fouling is very easily removed.  

Besides not having to paint CuNi and its natural resistance to fouling, CuNi is also easy to cut and weld, it has relatively high heat conductivity, it is extremely ductile, and it is therefore very favorable with regard to distortion while welding.

There are two alloys of Copper Nickel which are the most common: 70/30 CuNi, and 90/10 CuNi. The numbers represent the relative amounts of Copper and Nickel in the alloy. Having a greater amount of Nickel, 70/30 CuNi is the stronger of the two and also the more expensive of the two.

In the US as of February 2007, 90/10 CuNi was priced around USD $8.50 per pound, and 70/30 CuNi around USD $13.00 per pound, both based on a minimum order of greater than 15,000 pounds. In other words, roughly ten to fifteen times the cost of the same structure in steel. I have not investigated current (2015) prices for CuNi, but we can be certain they are higher (i.e. the value of the dollar less) thus the ratio of costs vs. steel much higher.

The issues with CuNi are not only those of cost, but also of strength. For example, the ultimate strength of 90/10 Cu Ni is about one third less than that of mild steel, and the yield strength about half that of mild steel. In practice, this means that a hull built of Cu Ni will have to use heavier scantlings. CuNi, being slightly heavier than steel per cubic foot, the CuNi hull structure will end up being slightly heavier than an equivalent steel hull structure.

In most materials, we usually "design to yield." This means that the ultimate failure strength of a material is more or less ignored, and the yield strength is instead used as the guide for determining scantlings. For example, if we were to desire a 90/10 CuNi structure having the same yield strength as there would be with a similar steel structure, we would be tempted to actually double the scantlings. Naturally this would result in quite a huge weight penalty, BUT....

In practice, a CuNi structure need not be taken to this extreme. Using the ABS rules to calculate the scantlings, an all 90/10 Cu Ni structure will have around 25% more weight than a similar structure in steel. It is best to use the same plate thickness as with steel, and compensate for the lower yield strength by spacing the longitudinals more closely.

It is unlikely that one would choose CuNi for the internal framing, primarily because of its cost, its relatively low strength, and the relatively much larger scantlings and weight that would result. In other words, there is no reason not to make use of CuNi for the hull skin in order to take full advantage of its benefits, but it is possible to use a stronger and less expensive material for all the internal framing.

What is the best choice for the internal framing...? Probably type 316-L Stainless . As long as the various attributes of stainless are kept in mind, this is a combination having considerable merit. Here is why...

• Stainless can be readily welded.
• One can easily make a weld between stainless and Cu Ni.
• Scantlings of stainless internal framing would not need to be increased, in fact they would be less than those required for mild steel.
• The weight of stainless internal framing would therefore be roughly 10% less than with mild steel, or approximately equal to the weight of a Corten steel internal structure.
• 316-L Stainless costs (February 2007) around USD $4.50 per pound based on a minimum order of 10,000 pounds. Therefore the cost of stainless is roughly half that of 90/10 Cu Ni, and about one third the cost of 70/30 Cu Ni... Combined with there being much lighter scantlings, the overall cost factor would be reduced considerably.

With this strategy the weight can be kept to roughly the same as an equivalent mild steel structure.

And to further reduce costs, NC plasma cutting or water jet cutting can be used for all plates and internal structure.

Are there still more options to reduce costs...?

Fiberglass...! Compared to the weight and cost of an all CuNi / Stainless structure, both cost and weight can be reduced by using fiberglass for the deck and house structures, or possibly just for the house structures. A cold moulded wooden deck and / or superstructure is also a possibility.

Even with GRP or composite wood for the house structures, it probably would be most advantageous to plate the deck with Cu Ni. In so doing, one could then use CuNi for all the various deck fittings: stanchions, cleats, bitts, etc. Pipe fittings are readily available in either alloy of CuNi, so this would be a natural. The resulting integral strength and lack of maintenance would be an outstanding plus.

While the expense of Copper Nickel may seem completely crazy to some, given a bit of extra room in the budget and the will to be completely free from ALL requirements for painting, this is the bee's knees....! The savings realized by not having to paint the entire vessel inside and out - EVER - will go quite a long way toward easing the cost differential.  

Per existing research on a number of commercial vessels, their operators have shown a very favorable economic benefit over the life of a Copper Nickel vessel. This is due to there being a much longer vessel life; far less cost for dry docking; zero painting costs; no maintenance; no corrosion; few if any repairs; etc. 

Per the Copper Alliance, and organization that has studied the economic benefits of CuNi for boat hulls, the cost saved on a commercial vessel's maintenance routine pays for the added cost of the CuNi structure within 5 to 7 years.  And... if the resale value of a CuNi boat is considered, the ROI is further enhanced.  

Monel 400 is an alloy of around 65% Nickel, around 30% Copper, plus small percentages of Manganese, Iron and Silicon. Monel is extremely ductile, and therefore will take considerable punishment without failure. Monel is easily welded, and Monel has extraordinary resistance to corrosion, even at elevated temperatures.

Monel is much stronger than mild steel, stronger than Corten, and stronger than the usual varieties of stainless. As a result of this greater strength, Monel could be used for the entire structure. As compared to a similar steel structure, Monel will therefore permit lighter scantlings and would allow one to create a lighter overall structure than with steel. Alternately one could use the same scantlings in order to achieve a vessel having greater strength .

To reduce costs even more, one could use the same strategy as with CuNi, i.e. use Monel just for the plating, and then use 316-L Stainless for the internal framing. This is probably the sweet spot, offering light scantlings and extraordinary freedom from on-going maintenance costs.

If cost is not an important factor, an all Monel structure may well be the ultimate boatbuilding material of all time.  

Titanium has been used in the aircraft and aerospace industries for quite a long time. As well, several Russian submarines have been built using Titanium. With very high strength alloys available, extreme nobility on the galvanic scale, virtual immunity to corrosion in sea water and in the atmosphere, and about half the weight of steel, there are only a few considerations that stand in the way of Titanium being the "perfect" hull material, not least of which is cost .

Cost :  Due to the higher cost of titanium as compared to, say stainless or aluminum, the choice in favor of using titanium for a fabricated structure such as a boat must be made on the basis of the resulting structure having lower operating costs, longer life, or reduced maintenance in order to justify its use.  In other words, titanium will only be chosen if it is perceived to have a lower total life cycle cost.

Plastic Range: Among the Commercially Pure (CP) grades of Titanium, and with most Titanium Alloys there is little spread between the yield point (the point at which a material is deformed so far that it will not return to its original shape when released) and the ultimate failure point. Thus most grades and alloys of titanium have a very limited plastic range. 

Elongation :  The percentage of elongation before failure is on par with mild steel, and is roughly twice that of aluminum.  Thus most grades of CP Titanium and most alloys are readily formable, and have a fatigue resistance on par with steel.

Stiffness: Another characteristic is "stiffness" which is expressed by the modulus of elasticity. For steel, it is 29 million psi. For aluminum, it is 10 million psi. For Titanium, it is 15 million psi. This indicates behavior that is somewhat closer to aluminum in terms of material rigidity.  In other words, Titanium will flex about twice as much as steel, but about 50% less than aluminum. Interestingly, Ti has about the same modulus of elasticity (stiffness) as Silicon Bronze, but Ti has less stiffness than copper nickel, which has an elastic modulus of 22 million psi.

Welding: Yet another consideration is the welding of Titanium, which is somewhat of a mixed bag due to several of the material's properties.

The melting point of Titanium (3,042 deg F) is well above that of steel (2,500 deg F) and about three times that of aluminum (1,135 deg F). Titanium forms a very tough oxide immediately on exposure to the air, and is highly reactive with nitrogen, therefore welding must be done only after thorough cleaning of the weld zone, and the welding process must assure a complete inert gas shroud of the weld zone both on the side being welded and on the opposite side. The weld zone must then continue to be shielded until the metal cools below 800 degrees.

These factors may provide considerable difficulty, but they are surmountable by thorough attention to detail, good technique, and aggressive measures to assure post-weld shielding. These factors however dramatically increase fabrication costs over that of other metals.

Among the other material properties that contribute to ease of fabrication of any metal are its heat conductivity, and its thermal expansion rate. Aluminum expands twice as much as steel per degree of temperature change, and is three times as conductive thermally. The thermal conductivity of aluminum is a big help, but the expansion makes trouble in terms of distortion. As a benefit though, an equivalent aluminum structure will have greater thickness and thus locally greater yield strength, so the score is more or less even between steel and aluminum, with aluminum having a slightly greater tendency toward distortion while welding.

With Titanium, this latter consideration will be the overriding factor in determining the minimum practical thickness for plating. Thermal conductivity is given as 4.5 BTU / Sq Ft / Hr/ Deg F / Ft for Titanium. For steel, it is 31, for aluminum it is 90. Thermal expansion is given as .0000039 in / in / deg F for Titanium, about 50% the expansion of steel and about 30% that of aluminum. These figures seem to indicate that the material would be fairly stable while welding, but that welds would take a much longer time to cool as compared to steel and vastly longer compared to aluminum. In other words, the heat would not dissipate - it would remain concentrated in the weld zone.

Industry consensus is that Titanium is slightly more prone to distortion due to welding as compared to steel. Considering these factors along with its much higher strength, as a very rough guess a thickness of around 3/32" may possibly be the minimum practical thickness for a welded structure in Titanium, with 1/8 inch thickness being a more likely lower practical hull thickness limit. As a comparison, the minimum thickness for other materials (mainly due to welding ease and distortion issues) is 10 gauge for mild steel (.1345"), and 5/32" for aluminum, although 3/16 inch thickness is a more practical lower limit for aluminum boat structures.

Corrosion:  Titanium is extremely corrosion resistant due to the immediate formation of a tenacious Titanium Dioxide on exposure to air or oxygenated water.  This means it is practically immune to corrosion in sea water, but there is one catch...  Like aluminum, Ti depends on free access to oxygen, therefore it can be susceptible to crevice corrosion wherever it is deprived of free access to oxygen and cannot form a protective oxide.  Crevice corrosion can be prevented in the same way as is done with aluminum, and some grades of Ti are more resistant to crevice corrosion than others. 

Titanium Grades:  Titanium Grade 2 is the most commonly available Commercially Pure (CP) grade, having 40k psi yield, 50k psi ultimate strength and a 20% elongation before failure.  It is highly formable and weldable, and is available in most shapes, i.e. plate, bar, pipe, etc.  These are highly favorable properties for hull construction.

Titanium Grade 12 includes Mo and Ni for a higher strength alloy having superior resistance to crevice corrosion, with 50k psi yield, 70k psi ultimate strength and an 18% elongation before failure. The 20k psi spread between yield and failure is a highly favorable property.  It is a highly formable grade, readily weldable and is available in a variety of plate sizes, pipes and bar shapes.  All of these are highly favorable properties for hull construction, making Grade 12 one of the best choices to be favored for boat structure.

Titanium Alloys :  An interesting Titanium alloy is the experimental Alloy 5111 (5% Al; 1% SN; 1% Zr; 1% V; 0.8% MO) with 110k psi yield, 125k psi ultimate strength and a 15% elongation before failure.  Described as "a near alpha alloy having excellent weldability, seawater stress corrosion cracking resistance and high dynamic toughness." It has a high elongation before failure, a "medium" overall strength of about twice that of mild steel, and has a slightly greater spread between its yield point and failure point than the "high" strength Titanium alloys. It is favored for submarines, but its high strength is not especially necessary for boats or large yachts.

Another Titanium alloy is the proprietary ATI Alloy 425 being made by Allegheny Technologies Inc. (ATI) who are targeting this alloy at ship structures.  With 132k psi yield, 152k psi ultimate strength and a 13% elongation before failure, its use is likely to be relegated to applications requiring very high strength.  Its low elongation before failure is an indication that it could be prone to cracking, and it is unlikely to be a candidate for typical boat structures (i.e. non-military usages).

Light weight, high strength, immunity from corrosion in sea water... sounds ideal.  Although it is obvious that Titanium would be an outstanding hull material, it requires extreme care during construction, thus labor costs would be high. If those factors can be mitigated or if cost is not an issue, then Titanium may possibly be the "ultimate" boat hull material...! 

Despite its immunity from corrosion in sea water, a titanium hull will still require paint below the WL in order to prevent fouling.  

Relative Cost

If we ignore the cost of the hull materials themselves for a moment and consider what may impact costs in other ways, we can observe the following... Vessel construction costs will vary more or less directly with displacement, assuming a given material, and a given level of finish and complexity in the design. Since displacement varies as the cube of the dimensions, we can see that the costs for a vessel will increase exponentially with size.

With regard to the complexity of a vessel the same can be said. Complexity in whatever form affects cost perhaps to the fourth power...! Assuming a given budget, a simpler boat can just plain afford to be made larger!

Estimating actual construction costs is relatively straightforward but it does require a detailed look at every aspect of the process. A reliable construction cost estimate must consider the hull material, degree of finish, complexity of structure, building method, whether the structure is computer cut, the complexity of systems specified and the degree of high finish for the joinery. This is only possible with a well articulated vessel specification, a complete equipment list, and a detailed set of drawings that show the layout and the structure.

Assuming we are considering vessels of equal size and complexity, when all is said and done, and if painted to the same standard on the exterior, an aluminum vessel may possibly be around 10% more expensive to build than the same vessel in steel. If the aluminum vessel is left unpainted on the exterior except where necessary, many yards can build for less in aluminum than in steel, or might quote the two materials at parity. This has been verified by several yards via actual construction estimates for boats of my design.

As compared to a steel boat, maintenance will be less costly on an aluminum boat and resale value will be higher. Taken as a whole, any increased hull construction costs for an aluminum hull will shrink into insignificance in the context of the entire life of the boat.

Of course a Copper Nickel, Monel, or Titanium vessel will be considerably more costly than one built in steel or aluminum, however in terms of longevity a boat built with any of those metals will provide the ultimate as a family heirloom...

For more information, please review our comprehensive web article on Boat Building Costs .  

The materials of construction need not dictate the aesthetics of a vessel. Much can be done to make a metal boat friendly to the eye. On the interior for example with the use of a full ceiling and well done interior woodwork, there will generally be no hint that you're even aboard a metal boat.

On the exterior, if metal decks are preferred for their incredible strength and complete water tightness, one can make the various areas more inviting by devious means. An example would be the use of removable wood gratings in way of the cockpit. Fitted boat cushions made of a closed cell foam work equally well to cover the metal deck in the cockpit area, and some will prefer to laminate a cork or teak deck over a painted and protected metal deck.

Many metal boats we encounter seem "industrial" in their appearance. In my view, classic and traditional lines, if attended to faithfully, will completely eliminate that industrial look. With a bit of classic gracefulness introduced by the designer, a metal boat will be every bit as beautiful as a boat of any other material.

My design work often tends to be drawn toward fairly traditional aesthetics, which some may regard as being somewhat old fashioned. What I have done in these designs however, is to take maximum advantage of up to date materials and current knowledge of hydrodynamics, while retaining the look and feel of a classic boat. In so doing, my overall preference is to provide a boat that is very simple, functional, and rugged, while carrying forth a bit of traditional elegance.

Everyone's needs are different of course. When considering a new design, nearly anything is possible. The eventual form given to any vessel will always be the result of the wishes of the owner, the accommodations the boat must contain, the purpose for which it is intended, and the budget that is available for its creation.  

Regarding Hull Form

Efficiency and performance are high on the list amongst the myriad considerations that go into shaping a hull. With metal hulls, there is always a question of whether a vessel should be rounded or "chine" shaped.

Assuming two vessels are of equally good design, whether the hull is rounded or single chine will not have much impact on their performance, i.e. they will be more or less equivalent. Here are a few considerations that may be of some benefit when considering the choice between rounded or single chine hull shapes...

• If one were to take a single chine hull form and simply introduce a fairly large radius instead of the chine, the newly rounded vessel's wetted surface would be less; displacement would be less; and initial stability would be less, and the comparison somewhat skewed.

In terms of interior hull space, a chine hull form will often be slightly less wide at sole level and slightly wider at the waterline level, so possibly a bit less room to walk around but larger seats and berths. The single chine hull form will have slightly greater initial stability (greater shape stability), and will therefore have slightly greater sail carrying ability at typical heel angles under sail. The single chine hull form will have greater roll dampening (faster roll decay). The rounded hull form will have a slightly more gentle rolling motion. The chine hull form will have slightly greater wetted surface. This implies that the rounded hull form will have slightly less resistance at slow speeds where wetted surface dominates the total resistance. The chine hull can be designed to equalize or reverse that resistance equation at higher speeds due to wake differences resulting from the chine hull being able to have a slightly flatter run.

Aside from these generalities, relative performance would be difficult to pre-judge. We can however observe the following:

• Given the same sail area, when sailing at slow speeds in light airs, one might see the rounded hull form show a slight advantage due to having slightly less wetted surface.
• When sailing fast , a chine hull form will be more likely to exhibit greater dynamic lift, especially when surfing.
• Especially in heavier air, one might even see a slight advantage to windward with the chine hull.

Given that those observations do not reveal any special deficiency with regard to a single chine hull we can additionally observe the following:

• When creating a new design, wetted surface is one of the determining factors of sail area.
• Having slightly greater wetted surface, a single chine hull should therefore be given slightly more sail area, so its slightly greater wetted surface will become a non-issue .
• If the chine hull is given slightly more sail area, it will therefore be subject to a slightly greater heeling force.
• However the single chine hull form will have inherently greater "shape stability" in order to resist that heeling force.
• One can therefore expect the sail carrying ability to be essentially equalized .
• Therefore with good design, there is no performance hit at low speeds, and there is ordinarily a performance gain at high sailing speeds.

Among the above considerations, the one factor that seems to favor the rounded hull form most definitively is that of having a slightly more gentle rolling motion. In other words, a slower "deceleration" at the end of each roll. On the other hand, rolling motions will decay more quickly with a single chine hull form. Even these factors can be more or less equivocated via correct hull design.  

Rounded Metal Hulls

As we have seen, one cannot claim that a rounded hull form is inherently better in terms of performance without heavily qualifying that claim. The primary trade-offs between a rounded hull and a chine type of hull form for metal boats therefore turn out to be purely a matter of cost and personal preference.

I have designed several rounded hulls for construction in metal. These are true round bottom boats designed with the greatest ease of plating in mind. Some are double ended, some have a transom stern, others have a fantail stern, and still others have a canoe stern where stem nicely balances the shape of the stern.

Having an easily plated shape, any of these rounded hull forms can be economically built. These rounded shapes require plate rolling only in a few places and are elsewhere designed to receive flat sheets without fuss. These are not "radius chine" boats. They are simply easily plated rounded hulls.

With any of these types, the keel is attached as an appendage, there being no need when using metal to create a large rounded garboard area for the sake of strength, as would be the case with a glass or a wooden hull. This achieves both a more economically built structure, as well as a better defined keel for windward performance under sail and better tracking under sail or power.

Plating on these rounded hull types is arranged in strips having a limited width running lengthwise along the hull. Usually the topsides can be one sheet wide, the rounded bilge one sheet, and the bottom one larger sheet width.

Examples of these rounded hull types among my designs are Jasmine , Lucille 42 , Lucille 50 , Benrogin , Greybeard , Fantom and among my prototypes such as Josephine and Caribe . While these might be imagined to have a "radius" chine shape, they are in fact true rounded hull forms. In other words, the turn of the bilge is not a radius but is instead a free form curve between bottom and topsides. Both bottom and topsides have gently rounded sectional contours that blend nicely into the curve at the turn of the bilge. With the exception of the turn of the bilge, all of the plating on these designs is developable and will readily bend into place making these vessels just as easily constructed as any radius chine shape. In other words, 85% to 90% of the vessel is able to be plated using flat metal sheets without any pre-forming.

What's the difference between this and a radius chine...?

In my view the visual difference between radius chine and rounded hull forms is very apparent, strongly favoring the rounded shape, yet the labor required and the consequent cost is the same. Due to the gentle transverse curvature given to the surfaces above and below the turn of the bilge, the appearance is a vast improvement over the relatively crude radius chine shape.  

Radius Chine Metal Hulls

Looking around at typically available metal boat designs we quickly observe that the "radius chine" construction method has become fairly common. Here, a simple radius is used to intersect the "flat" side and bottom plates. Although the radius chine shape takes fairly good advantage of flat plate for most of the hull surface, it is not a more economical construction method than the easily plated rounded hull shapes described above - nor is it nearly as attractive.

One reason for the popularity of the radius chine is that nearly any single chine boat can be converted to a radius chine. This is often done without any re-design of the hull by simply choosing an appropriate radius, and using rolled plate for that part of the hull. Radius chine construction does add quite a few extra hours to the hull fabrication as compared to single chine hull forms.

In my experience there is no benefit whatever to employ a radius chine shape over that of an easily plated rounded hull form. The radius chine hull will always be easily recognized for what it is... a radius chine shape rather than a true rounded hull. By contrast a gently rounded hull form will be vastly more appealing visually.  

Chine Hull Forms

A single chine can be quite appealing, especially when used with a more classic / traditional style. A few single chine examples among my sailing designs are the 36' Grace , the 42' Zephyr , the 44' Redpath , the 56' Shiraz , along with a number of others such as the prototype designs for a 51' Skipjack , or the 55' Wylde Pathaway .

As supplied, metal plate is always flat . When building a boat using flat sheet material, it makes the most sense to think in terms of sheet material and how one may optimize a hull design to suit the materials, without incurring extra labor. I am attracted to the single chine shape for metal boats. In my view the single chine shape represents the most "honest" use of the material.

In this regard I feel traditional styling has much to offer, keeping in mind of course the goals of seakindliness, safety, and of excellent performance. As with many traditional types, there is certainly no aesthetic penalty for using a single chine, as is evidenced by reviewing any of the above mentioned sailing craft.

Assuming that by design each type has been optimized with regard to sail area and hull form, it becomes obvious that the typically pandered differences between the performance of a rounded hull form versus that of a single chine, unless heavily qualified, are simply unsubstantiated.

In fact, since costs are significantly less using single chine construction, one can make an excellent case in terms of better performance via the use of a simpler hull form....!

How is this possible...?

With metal boats, labor is by far the largest factor in hull construction, and as we have observed greater complexity pushes the hours and the cost of labor up exponentially. Therefore dollar for dollar, a single chine vessel can be made longer within the same budget .

This means that in terms of the vessel's "performance per dollar" the single chine vessel can actually offer better performance (i.e. greater speed) than a similar rounded hull form...!

By comparison, a multiple chine hull form offers practically no advantage whatever. A multiple chine hull will require nearly as much labor as a radius chine hull. The only savings will be eliminating the cost of rolling the plates for the actual radius. In my view, multiple-chine shapes are very problematic visually, and they are much more difficult to "line off" nicely. There will be just as much welding as with a radius chine shape, and in general a multiple-chine hull will be considerably less easy to keep fair during construction.

If you look at the designs on this web site, you'll soon discover that there are no examples of multiple-chine vessels among my designs, whether power or sail....

Basically, multiple chine shapes cost more to build, and in my view multiple chine shapes are not as visually appealing. As a result the preference has always been to consider the available budget and to make a graceful single chine boat longer for the same cost, and realize some real speed, comfort and accommodation benefits...!

In the end what ultimately defines a good boat is not whether she is one type or another, but whether the boat satisfies the wishes of the owner.  

Keel Configuration

The keel of any vessel, sail or power, will be asked to serve many functions. The keel creates a structural backbone for the hull, it provides a platform for grounding, and it will contain the ballast.

In a metal boat, the keel is not just "along for the ride." In a metal vessel the keel can contain much of the tankage including a meaningful sea water sump, and the keel can serve as the coolant tank for the engine essentially acting as the "radiator." It is usually convenient to allow at least one generous tank in the keel as a holding tank.

A metal hull can take advantage of twin or bilge keels without any trouble. It is an easy matter to provide the required structural support within the framing. Often, bilge keels can be integrated with the tanks, allowing excellent structural support.

An added advantage with both sail and power boats is that the bilge keels can be used as ballast compartments. Having spread the ballast laterally becomes a big advantage in terms of the vessel's roll radius, providing an inertial dampening to the vessel's roll behavior.

Bilge keels can also be designed to permit a good degree of sailing performance to a power vessel which has been set up with a "get-home" sailing rig. Aboard a power vessel, when faced with the choices involved with having an extra diesel engine as a "get-home" device in the event of failure of the main engine, I would very seriously consider the combination of bilge keels and a modest sailing rig.

Bilge keels will usually make use of a NACA foil section optimized for high lift / low drag / low stall. With metal, this is easily accomplished.  

Integral Tanks

Integral fuel and water tanks are always to be preferred on a metal boat. Integral tanks provide a much more efficient use of space. Integral tanks provide added reinforcement for the hull and ease of access to the inside of the hull. Integral tanks are very simple to arrange for during the design of the vessel. If the tank covers are planned correctly there will be excellent access during construction as well as in the future for maintenance.

The one exception to this generality is that polyethylene tanks may be preferred for black or grey water storage, since they can be readily cleaned. This is especially so in aluminum vessels, due mainly to the extremely corrosive nature of sewage. In steel vessels, when properly painted there will always be an adequate barrier, and integral black and grey water tanks again become viable. For aluminum construction, if integral holding tanks are desired the tanks must be protected on the inside as though they were made of mild steel... and the coatings must not be breached...!

Please see my article on Integral Tanks for more on this question...  

Scantling Calcs

Hull size, materials of construction, and the location of the specific region of the structure in question will each have a bearing on the results of the scantling calcs. The method of calculating the hull structural scantlings is usually processed as follows, assuming first that the vessel data is already given (hull length, beam, depth, freeboard, weight, etc.).

Select plate material according to owner preference, available budget, and desired strength or other material properties Select preferred plate thickness according to availability, suited to vessel size and displacement Calculate local longitudinal spacing to adequately support the plate Select frame spacing to satisfy the locations of interior bulkheads or other layout considerations Calculate scantlings required for longitudinal stringers to satisfy their spacing and the span between frames Calculate scantlings required for transverse frames according to the depth of long'l stringers and the local span of the frames.

Per item 3, when considering an alternate material it is possible that due to a difference in plate yield strength as compared to the original design material (say steel), that the long'ls will be placed slightly more closely (say for the same thickness of plate, but a plate of lesser strength).

Generally, since the long's support the plate, they are the primary variable when plate thickness, or strength, or location is changed. It is no big deal to the structure, to the overall weight, or to ease of the building of the vessel (as compared to say steel) to have a tighter long'l spacing. This is the proper strategy to accommodate plate of different strength or thickness.

Once the plate is adequately supported, then scantlings of items 5 and 6 can be calculated according to their spans and the material strengths for the chosen framing materials.

It becomes obvious from the above that it is an advantage (in terms of weight) to select a relatively lesser thickness of plating, and a relatively more frequent interval for internal framing. On the other hand, it is usually an advantage in terms of building labor to select plate of a slightly greater thickness and a less frequent framing interval (so simpler internal structure).

Please see my article on Using the ABS Rule for a more detailed look at how scantlings are determined.  

Frameless Construction...?

There is quite a lot of misleading and incorrect information associated with the implied promise of "frameless" metal boats, a notion that is pandered by several offbeat designers and builders. The concept of "frameless" metal boats is attractive, but flawed.

If one applies well proven engineering principles to the problem of hull design as detailed above, one quickly discovers that for the sake of stiffness and lightness, frames are simply a requirement. For example, in order to achieve the required strength in a metal vessel without using transverse framing will require an enormous increase in plate thickness. Even with light weight materials such as aluminum alloy this would automatically result in a substantial weight penalty..

With light weight materials such as aluminum, one can certainly gain some advantage by the use of greater plate thickness, primarily in terms of maintaining fairness during fabrication, and in terms of ruggedness in use. Still, as strong as metal is, even with light weight materials there is definitely a need to support the plating and to reinforce and stiffen the structure as a whole using frames and stringers.

In general, the most suitable arrangement for internal structure is a combination of transverse frames and longitudinal stiffeners. Framing may sometimes be provided in the form of devious strategies... For example framing may be in the form of bulkheads or other interior and exterior structural features, placed in order to achieve the required plate reinforcement. Many so-called "frameless" boats do indeed make extensive use of longitudinals in combination with bulkheads or other internal structure to reduce the span of the longitudinal stiffeners.

While it is true that many metal boats are successfully plated , and their plating then welded up without the aid of metal internal framing during weld-up, in order to provide adequate strength in the finished vessel, frames must then be added before the hull can be considered finished. Even on a hull that will eventually have substantial internal framing this construction sequence can provide a big advantage when trying to maintain fairness during weld-up.

Experienced metal boat builders and designers have often come to recognize the potential benefits of building a metal boat over molds which do not hold the boat so rigidly as to make trouble during the weld-up. However, the competent among them also know that to leave the boat without internal framing is quite an irresponsible act.

Please see my articles on Framing and Frames First for more on this subject.  

Framing Systems

Framing systems are several, but can roughly be categorized into

Transverse Frames Only Transverse Frames with Longitudinal Stringers Web Frames with Longitudinal Stringers.

Among those, the Transverse Frames Only system is fairly common in Europe. In the US, the most commonly system used is the second system, where transverses are used in combination with longitudinal stringers.

In terms of scantlings, typically, long'ls will be half the depth, but approximately the same thickness as the transverse frames. It is an ABS requirement that transverse frames be twice the depth of the cut-out for the long'l.

Among some light weight racing yachts, a system of Webs with fairly beefy Long'l Stringers is the preferred approach, or alternately Webs with smaller Intermediate Transverse Frames, in combination with Long'l Stringers..

A somewhat generalized walkthrough of the usual design sequence is as follows:

For any given vessel size, plating will need to be a certain minimum thickness suited to that vessel size. For that given minimum plating thickness (for that particular boat) the long'l stringers will need to be a certain distance apart in order to adequately support the plate. The dimensions of the Long'l Stringers are determined by the vessel size, the spacing of the long's and the span of the long's between transverse frames. Finally, the dimensions of the Transverse Frames are determined according to the vessel size, the frame spacing, the span of the frames between supports, and by the requirement that the frames be no less in height than twice the height of the long's.

In other words, by this engineering approach the transverse frames are considered to be the primary support system for the long'l stringers, and the long'l stringers are considered to be the primary support system for the plating.

When a long'l member becomes the "dominant" member of the structure (usually locally only), it ceases to be referred to as a long'l stringer, and becomes instead a long'l "girder" (an engine girder for example).

If long'l stringers are not used, then the frames are the only means of support for the plating. They must therefore be more closely spaced in order to satisfy the needs of the plating for adequate support. In general though, long'l stringers are to be considered highly desirable, primarily because they contribute considerably to the global longitudinal strength of the yacht.

When calculating the strength of any beam, there is a benefit when the beam gains depth (height). Beams of greater height have a higher section modulus. Just as with beams of greater height, when calculating a vessel's global longitudinal strength it is the height of the vessel that makes the greatest contribution. Small and medium sized power and sailing yachts usually have very adequate height , so long'l strength calculations are less critical. For larger yachts or for yachts which have a low height to beam ratio, there it is necessary to consider long'l strength very closely. Witness the catastrophic failures of several recent America's Cup vessels....!

As a general guide to the boundary of acceptability, the ABS rules consider that a vessel must be no more than twice as wide as it is high (deck edge to rabbet line), and no greater than 15 times its height in overall length. Beyond these limits, a strictly engineering "proof" must be employed rather than the prescriptive ABS Section Modulus and Moment of Inertia requirements for calculating the strength of the global hull "girder."

The ABS Motor Pleasure Yachts Rule, 2000, is a very suitable scantling rule for boats of any material. Originally created for "self propelled vessels up to 200 feet, the scope of the Motor Pleasure Yachts Rule has been subsequently restricted to vessels between 79 and 200 feet. In that size range, the ABS Rules for Steel Vessels Under 200 Feet, and the ABS Rules for Aluminum Vessels may also be applied, in particular to commercially used vessels. For sailing craft of all materials, the ABS Rules for Offshore Racing Yachts is applicable to sailing vessels up to 79 feet.

The most appropriate means of assessing the adequacy of structure is to assure that a vessel's scantlings comply with the applicable ABS rule, or alternately the applicable rule published by Lloyd's Register (England), German Lloyds (Germany), Det Norske Veritas (Norway), Bureau Veritas (France), etc.

As we can see from the above, framing is highly desirable for any metal yacht. Without framing, plate thickness would become extreme, and consequently so would the weight of the structure...  

Computer Cutting

The labor involved in fabricating a metal hull can be reduced by a substantial amount via NC cutting. What is NC...? It simply means "Numerically Controlled." Builders who are sufficiently experienced with building NC cut hull structures estimate that they can save between 35% and 55% on the hull fabrication labor via computer cutting.

As an example, a fairly simple vessel of around 45 feet may take around 2,500 hours to fabricate by hand, complete with tanks, engine beds, deck fittings, etc. ready for painting. If one can save, say 40% of those hours, or some 1000, then at typical shop rates the savings can be dramatic. By comparison, the number of design hours one must spend at the computer to detail the NC cut files for such a vessel may amount to some three to four man-weeks, or perhaps some 160 hours.

With this kind of savings, the labor expended to develop the NC cut files will be paid for many times over. In fact, the savings are sufficient that NC cutting has the potential to "earn back" a fair portion of the cost of having developed a custom boat design...! Where there may be any doubt, please review our web article on how we use CAD effectively to develop our designs for NC Cutting .

Anymore, it is inconceivable to build a commercial vessel of any size without taking advantage of NC cutting. While this technology has been slow to penetrate among yacht builders, these days it is plain that builders and designers who ignore the benefits offered by computer modeling and NC cut hull structures simply have their heads in the sand. A possibly entertaining editorial on this is subject is Are We Still in the Dark Ages ...?  

Paint Systems

Small metal boats are not designed with an appreciable corrosion allowance. They must therefore be prepared and painted in the best way possible in order to assure a long life.

Current technology for protecting steel and aluminum boats is plain and simple: Epoxy paint .

When painting metal, a thorough degreasing is always the first step, to clean off the oils from the milling process, as well as any other contaminants, like the smut from welding, which have been introduced while fabricating.

The next important step is a very thorough abrasive grit blasting on a steel boat, or a somewhat less aggressive "brush blast" on an aluminum boat. The process of sand blasting a metal boat is expensive and can in no way be looked at with pleasure, except in the sense of satisfaction and well being provided by a job well done.

While there is no substitute for grit blasting, there are ways to limit the cost of the operation. When ordering steel, it is very much to a builder's advantage to have it "wheel abraded" and primed. Wheel abrading is a process of throwing very small shot at the surface at high speed to remove the mill scale and clean the surface. Primer is then applied. Having been wheeled and primed, the surfaces will be much easier to blast when the time comes.

In terms of the paint system, aluminum boats are dealt with more easily than steel boats. Aluminum must be painted any place a crevice might be formed where things are mounted, and should also be painted below the waterline, if left in the water year-round. The marine aluminum alloys do not otherwise require painting at all.

On an aluminum boat, any areas which will be painted should receive the same aggressive preparation regimen used on steel: thorough cleaning, sand blasting, and epoxy paint. Aluminum is less hard than steel, so sand blasting aluminum is relatively fast compared to steel. The blast nozzle must be held at a greater distance and the blast covers the area more quickly.

On a Copper Nickel or Monel vessel, there would simply be no need for paint anywhere.  

Many schemes are used to insulate metal boats. Insulation is mentioned here in the context of corrosion prevention mainly to point out that regardless of the type used, insulation is NOT to be considered an effective protection against corrosion. As with anywhere else on a metal boat, epoxy paint is the best barrier against corrosion.

Sprayed-on foam is not to be recommended. While popular, sprayed-on foam has many drawbacks that are often overlooked:

• Urethane foam is not a completely closed cell type of foam. With time, urethane foam will absorb odors which become difficult or impossible to get rid of. This is especially a problem when there are smokers aboard.
• Nearly all urethane foam will burn fiercely, and the fumes are extremely toxic. Blown in foam should therefore be of a fire retarding formulation, and should additionally be coated with a flame retarding intumescent paint.
• Sprayed-on foam makes a total mess, requiring extensive clean-up. The clean-up process actually further compromises the foam due to breaking the foam's surface skin.
• Sprayed-on foam requires that an intumescent paint be applied, both for the sake of fire suppression, and in order to re-introduce the seal broken by the clean-up of the spray job.

A much better insulation system is to use a Mastic type of condensation / vapor barrier such as MASCOAT, which adheres well to painted steel surfaces, as well as unpainted aluminum surfaces. It creates a barrier to water penetration, and an effective condensation prevention system. Applied to recommended thicknesses of around 60 mils, it is effective as insulation. Further, it is quite good at sound deadening, is fire proof, and will not absorb odors. Mascoat DTM is used for insulation, and Mascoat MSC for sound attenuation, very effective on engine room surfaces and above the propeller. Both are effective whether on a steel or an aluminum boat.

These mastic coatings can be painted if desired. In more severe climates the mastic coatings can be augmented by using a good quality flexible closed cell cut-sheet foam to fit between the framing. The best choices among these flexible cut-sheet foams are Ensolite and Neoprene. There are several different varieties of each. The choice of insulation foam should be made on the basis of it being fireproof, mildew proof, easily glued, easy to work with, resilient, and if exposed, friendly to look at. Ensolite satisfies all these criteria. Ensolite is better than Neoprene in most respects, but is slightly more expensive. One brand offering good quality flexible foam solutions for boats is ARMAFLEX.

Styrofoam or any other styrene type of foam should be strictly avoided. Go get a piece at your local lumber yard and throw it onto a camp fire.... You will be immediately convinced. The same applies to any of the typical rigid or sprayed-on urethane foams. They are an extreme fire hazard and cannot be recommended.  

Zincs are essential on any metal hull for galvanic protection of the underwater metals (protection against galvanic attack of a less noble metal by a more noble metal), as well as for protection against stray current corrosion.

In the best of all possible worlds, there would be no stray currents in our harbors, but that is not a reality. Regardless of the bottom paint used or the degree of protection conferred by high build epoxy paint, zincs must be used to control stray current corrosion, to which we can become victim with a metal boat, even without an electrical system, due to the possible presence of an electric field in the water having a sufficiently different potential at one end of your boat, vs the other end...!

The quantity of zinc and the surface area must be determined by trial and error by observing real-world conditions over time. However as a place to start, a few recommendations can be made. As an example, on a metal hull of around 35 feet the best scheme to start with would be to place two zincs forward, two aft, and one on each side of the rudder. With a larger metal boat of say 45' an additional pair of zincs amidships would be appropriate. As a vessel gets larger the zincs will become more numerous and / or larger in surface area.

Zincs will be effective for a distance of only around 12 to 15 feet, so it is not adequate to just use one single large zinc anode. Zincs will ideally be located near the rudder fittings, and near the propeller. The zincs forward are a requirement, even though there may be no nearby hull fitting, in order to prevent the possibility of stray current corrosion, should the paint system be breached.

Using the above scheme, after the first few months the zincs should be inspected. If the zincs appear to be active, but there is plenty left, they are doing their job correctly. If they are seriously wasted, the area of zinc should be increased (rather than the weight of zinc). During each season, and to adjust for different marinas, the sizes of the zincs should be adjusted as needed.

Good electrical connection between the zinc and the hull must be assured.  

Bonding is the practice of tying all of the underwater metals together with wires or bonding strips. It is done in order to 'theoretically' bring all of the underwater metals to the same potential, and aim that collective potential at a single large zinc. It is also done in order that no single metal object will have a different potential than surrounding metal objects for the sake of shock prevention.

However for maximum corrosion protection, metal boats will ideally NOT be bonded. This of course is contrary to the advice of the ABYC. Keep in mind though that the ABYC rules represent the consensus of the US Marine Manufacturers Association, and are therefore primarily aimed at satisfying the requirements aboard GRP vessels, about which the MMA is most familiar. Naturally, aboard a GRP boat the boat's structure is electrically inert and not subject to degradation by corrosion, therefore aboard a GRP boat there is no reason to recommend against bonding - except perhaps the fact that bonding all underwater metals using a copper conductor invites the possibility of stray current corrosion of those underwater metals due to the possible potential differential in the water from one end of the boat to the other.

Little by little though, the ABYC is learning more about the requirements aboard metal and wooden vessels, and recommendations for aluminum and steel boats have begun to appear in the ABYC guidelines. Even so, the corrosion vs shock hazard conundrum aboard metal boats is not 'solved' since the solutions are not as simple as they might at first seem. For an introduction to some of the issues with regard to bonding, please see our " Corrosion, Zincs & Bonding " booklet.  

Electrical System Considerations

Aboard a metal vessel, purely for the sake of preventing corrosion the ideal will be to make use of a completely floating ground system. In other words, the negative side of the DC power will not permitted to be in contact with the hull nor any hull fittings, anywhere. With a floating ground system, a special type of alternator is used which does not make use of its case as the ground, but instead has a dedicated negative terminal.

This is contrary to the way nearly all engines are wired. Typically, engines make use of the engine block as a mutual ground for all engine wiring. Also, the starter will typically be grounded to the engine, as will the alternator. And typically the engine is in some way grounded to the hull, possibly via the coolant water, or possibly via a water lubed shaft tube, or the engine mounts, or even a direct bonding wire, etc.

Needless to say, for the sake of preventing corrosion, there should not be a direct connection between the AC shore power and the hull. This includes that insidious little green grounding wire. This whole issue is avoided if a proper marine grade Isolation Transformer is installed, which has as its duty to totally isolate all direct connections between shore power and the onboard wiring. This is done by 'inducing' a current in the onboard circuits, thus the electrical energy generated has been created entirely within the secondary coils, and is therefore entirely separate from the shore side power.

The purpose of the green grounding wire is to return any leakage current back to ground onshore, rather than to leak away through the hull and its underwater metals into the water, seeking an alternate path to ground. If a leakage current of greater than 10 milliamps exists onboard (not at all uncommon), it presents an EXTREME hazard to swimmers nearby. This is especially dangerous in fresh water where a swimmer's body provides much less electrical resistance than the surrounding water, and the swimmer thereby becomes the preferred path for any stray currents in the water. With a leakage current above 20 milliamps, death can (and has) become the result. Above 100 milliamps, and the heart stops. Serious business.

The shore side green grounding wire must be brought aboard and connected to the primary side of the Isolation Transformer. It creates a 'fail safe' return path for the AC current seeking ground. But on the secondary side of the Isolation Transformer it serves no purpose onboard because the secondary side will have created an entirely independent electrical system, generated onboard , and not tied to shore power.

Separately, there should ideally be a green grounding wire in the onboard electrical system, however it should not be tied to the shore side green grounding wire. Recommendations differ here, and the Isolation Transformer should be chosen on the basis of providing COMPLETE isolation of the onboard electrical system from the shore power system... What this means is that if a particular Isolation Transformer's wiring diagram recommends connecting the shore side green grounding wire to the onboard green grounding wire (effectively defeating its very purpose) that Isolation Transformer should be rejected as a candidate for placement onboard.

Other "black box" devices should be avoided, including "zinc savers" or impressed current systems, etc. On a military vessel, commercial vessel, or large crewed yacht where these systems can be continuously monitored, such "active" protection schemes may have some merit. However on a small yacht, which may spend long periods with no-one aboard but which may still be plugged into shore power, an "active" system will not be attended to with any regularity, and could easily fail and develop a fault that could potentially cause rapid corrosion, resulting in considerable damage.

The ideal electrical system onboard will be entirely 12v or 24v DC, energized via a large battery bank. All installations should have an Isolation Transformer on the shore power connection. Onboard, the secondary side of the transformer can then be connected to marine quality battery chargers. Some battery chargers are available that have a built-in isolation transformer, but they should be screened on the basis described above. Then onboard if the only thing the Isolation Transformer connects to onboard is a large battery charger, then there is no real connection between the onboard DC system and the shore side AC system.

Using such a system, it is possible to have onboard AC power provided by inverters, directly energized by the large battery bank. This provides yet another barrier between the onboard AC electrical system and the shore power system. It also provides other considerable advantages.... For one, some types of isolation transformer can be switched in order to accept either 110v AC or 220v AC, and to output either voltage , depending on what the onboard equipment requires (essentially just the battery charger in this case). Since the isolation transformer and the battery chargers are also frequency agnostic, if all onboard AC is generated by inverters, you then have a truly shore power agnostic system. All onboard equipment will either be DC, or will be AC generated onboard by the inverters at the requisite frequency and voltage required by the onboard equipment.

Where this scheme gets defeated rather quickly is where there must be an air conditioning system, and / or a washer / dryer, all of which are very power hungry. But we can still keep from bringing shore power onboard to directly serve those items by using the above described system (i.e. shore power > isolation transformer > battery charger > battery bank > inverter > onboard AC system) in combination with an onboard AC generator. In this way, all AC current onboard will be generated onboard, either via the inverters for low current draw items, or by the generator when high current draw items are used, and frequency / voltage suddenly become a non-issue...

The whole point is to keep shore power OFF the boat by limiting its excursion only to the Isolation Transformer, where it stops completely. With all onboard power being created entirely onboard, there is no hazard to swimmers posed by stray currents attempting to seek ground onshore, because the onboard "ground" is, in fact, onboard...

I know there are those who will disagree with the above statements about electrical systems. Whether you agree or disagree, please don't come all unglued over these matters and instead, for much more complete information on these topics, please see the resources mentioned below...  

We can see that metal can make considerable sense as a hull building material. On the basis of strength, ruggedness, ease of construction, first cost, and ease of maintenance, there is plenty of justification for building a metal hull, whether steel, aluminum, Copper Nickel, or Monel.

Steel wins the ruggedness contest. Aluminum wins the lightness contest. Copper Nickel and Monel win the longevity and freedom from maintenance contest.

Part of the equation for any vessel is also resale. In this realm, aluminum does very well, albeit in this country not as well as composite construction. This is mainly a matter of market faith here in the US where we are relatively less educated about metal vessels. As for resale, a vessel built of Copper Nickel will fare extremely well. After all, the Copper Nickel or Monel vessel will have essentially been built out of money...!

Metal is an excellent structural material, being both strong and easily fabricated using readily available technology. In terms of impact, metal can be shown via basic engineering principles and real world evidence to be better than any form of composite. If designed well, a metal boat will be beautiful, will perform well, will be very comfortable, and will provide the peace of mind achieved only via the knowledge that you are aboard the safest, strongest, most rugged type of vessel possible.

It is said among dedicated blue water cruisers in the South Pacific that, "50% of the boats are metal; the rest of them are from the United States....!" Although this statement may seem so at times, it is fortunately not 100% true!!

It is my hope that the above essay will be of some value when considering the choice of hull materials. If you are intending to make use of metal as a hull material you may wish to review the article " Aluminum for Boats " that first appeared in Cruising World magazine, and the article " Aluminum vs. Steel " comparing the relative merits of both materials. Also, in defense of steel as a very practical boat building medium check out the article on " Steel Yachts ."

In addition, there are two excellent booklets available on our Articles and Other Links page. The first of them, the " Marine Metals Reference " is a brief guide to the appropriate metals for marine use, where they will be most appropriately used. It also contains welding information and a complete list of the physical properties of marine metals. The second booklet, " Corrosion, Zincs & Bonding " offers a complete discussion of electrical systems, corrosion, zincs, and bonding.  

Other Articles on Boat Structure

Metal Boats for Blue Water | Aluminum vs Steel | Steel Boats | Aluminum for Boats Metal Boat Framing | Metal Boat Building Methods | Metal Boat Welding Sequence | Designing Metal Boat Structure Composites for Boats | The Evolution of a Wooden Sailing Type  

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43 of the best bluewater sailboat designs of all time

• January 5, 2022

How do you choose the right yacht for you? We highlight the very best bluewater sailboat designs for every type of cruising

Which yacht is the best for bluewater boating? This question generates even more debate among sailors than questions about what’s the coolest yacht , or the best for racing. Whereas racing designs are measured against each other, cruising sailors get very limited opportunities to experience different yachts in real oceangoing conditions, so what is the best bluewater sailboat?

Here, we bring you our top choices from decades of designs and launches. Over the years, the Yachting World team has sailed these boats, tested them or judged them for European Yacht of the Year awards, and we have sifted through the many to curate a selection that we believe should be on your wishlist.

Making the right choice may come down to how you foresee your yacht being used after it has crossed an ocean or completed a passage: will you be living at anchor or cruising along the coast? If so, your guiding requirements will be space, cabin size, ease of launching a tender and anchoring closer to shore, and whether it can comfortably accommodate non-expert-sailor guests.

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All of these considerations have generated the inexorable rise of the bluewater catamaran – monohulls can’t easily compete on these points. We have a full separate feature on the best bluewater multihulls of all time and here we mostly focus on monohulls. The only exceptions to that rule are two multihulls which made it into our best bluewater sailboats of 2022 list.

As so much of making the right choice is selecting the right boat for the venture in mind, we have separated out our edit into categories: best for comfort; for families; for performance; and for expedition or high latitudes sailing .

Best bluewater sailboats of 2022

The new flagship Allures 51.9, for example, is a no-nonsense adventure cruising design built and finished to a high standard. It retains Allures’ niche of using aluminium hulls with glassfibre decks and superstructures, which, the yard maintains, gives the optimum combination of least maintenance and less weight higher up. Priorities for this design were a full beam aft cabin and a spacious, long cockpit. Both are excellent, with the latter, at 6m long, offering formidable social, sailing and aft deck zones.

It likes some breeze to come to life on the wheel, but I appreciate that it’s designed to take up to five tonnes payload. And I like the ease with which you can change gears using the furling headsails and the positioning of the powerful Andersen winches inboard. The arch is standard and comes with a textile sprayhood or hard bimini.

Below decks you’ll find abundant headroom and natural light, a deep U-shape galley and cavernous stowage. For those who like the layout of the Amel 50 but would prefer aluminium or shoal draught, look no further.

Allures 51.9 price: €766,000

The Ovni 370 is another cunning new aluminum centreboard offering, a true deck saloon cruiser for two. The designers say the biggest challenge was to create a Category A ocean going yacht at this size with a lifting keel, hence the hull had to be very stable.

Enjoyable to helm, it has a practical, deep cockpit behind a large sprayhood, which can link to the bimini on the arch. Many of its most appealing features lie in the bright, light, contemporary, clever, voluminous interior, which has good stowage and tankage allocation. There’s also a practical navstation, a large workroom and a vast separate shower. I particularly like the convertible saloom, which can double as a large secure daybed or pilot berth.

Potentially the least expensive Category A lift keel boat available, the Ovni will get you dreaming of remote places again.

Ovni 370 price: €282,080

There’s no shortage of spirit in the Windelo 50. We gave this a sustainability award after it’s founders spent two years researching environmentally-friendly composite materials, developing an eco-composite of basalt fibre and recycled PET foam so it could build boats that halve the environmental impact of standard glassfibre yachts.

The Windelo 50 is an intriguing package – from the styling, modular interior and novel layout to the solar field on the roof and the standard electric propulsion, it is completely fresh.

Windelo 50 price: €795,000

Best bluewater sailboat of 2022 – Outremer 55

I would argue that this is the most successful new production yacht on the market. Well over 50 have already sold (an equipped model typically costs €1.6m) – and I can understand why. After all, were money no object, I had this design earmarked as the new yacht I would most likely choose for a world trip.

Indeed 55 number one Sanya, was fully equipped for a family’s world cruise, and left during our stay for the Grand Large Odyssey tour. Whereas we sailed Magic Kili, which was tricked up with performance options, including foam-cored deckheads and supports, carbon crossbeam and bulkheads, and synthetic rigging.

At rest, these are enticing space ships. Taking one out to sea is another matter though. These are speed machines with the size, scale and loads to be rightly weary of. Last month Nikki Henderson wrote a feature for us about how to manage a new breed of performance cruising cats just like this and how she coaches new owners. I could not think of wiser money spent for those who do not have ample multihull sailing experience.

Under sail, the most fun was obviously reserved for the reaching leg under asymmetric, where we clocked between 11-16 knots in 15-16 knots wind. But it was the stability and of those sustained low teen speeds which really hit home  – passagemaking where you really cover miles.

Key features include the swing helms, which give you views from outboard, over the coachroof or from a protected position in the cockpit through the coachroof windows, and the vast island in the galley, which is key to an open plan main living area. It helps provide cavernous stowage and acts as the heart of the entertaining space as it would in a modern home. As Danish judge Morten Brandt-Rasmussen comments: “Apart from being the TGV of ocean passages the boat offers the most spacious, open and best integration of the cockpit and salon areas in the market.”

Outremer has done a top job in packing in the creature comforts, stowage space and payload capacity, while keeping it light enough to eat miles. Although a lot to absorb and handle, the 55 offers a formidable blend of speed and luxury cruising.

Outremer 55 price: €1.35m

Best bluewater sailboats for comfort

This is the successor to the legendary Super Maramu, a ketch design that for several decades defined easy downwind handling and fostered a cult following for the French yard. Nearly a decade old, the Amel 55 is the bridge between those world-girdling stalwarts and Amel’s more recent and totally re-imagined sloop designs, the Amel 50 and 60.

The 55 boasts all the serious features Amel aficionados loved and valued: a skeg-hung rudder, solidly built hull, watertight bulkheads, solid guardrails and rampart bulwarks. And, most noticeable, the solid doghouse in which the helmsman sits in perfect shelter at the wheel.

This is a design to live on comfortably for long periods and the list of standard features just goes on and on: passarelle; proper sea berths with lee cloths; electric furling main and genoa; and a multitude of practical items that go right down to a dishwasher and crockery.

There’s no getting around the fact these designs do look rather dated now, and through the development of easier sail handling systems the ketch rig has fallen out of fashion, but the Amel is nothing short of a phenomenon, and if you’ve never even peeked on board one, you really have missed a treat.

Photo: Sander van der Borch

Contest 50CS

A centre cockpit cruiser with true longevity, the Contest 50CS was launched by Conyplex back in 2003 and is still being built by the family-owned Dutch company, now in updated and restyled form.

With a fully balanced rudder, large wheel and modern underwater sections, the Contest 50CS is a surprisingly good performer for a boat that has a dry weight of 17.5 tonnes. Many were fitted with in-mast furling, which clearly curtails that performance, but even without, this boat is set up for a small crew.

Electric winches and mainsheet traveller are all easy to reach from the helm. On our test of the Contest 50CS, we saw for ourselves how two people can gybe downwind under spinnaker without undue drama. Upwind, a 105% genoa is so easy to tack it flatters even the weediest crewmember.

Down below, the finish level of the joinery work is up there among the best and the interior is full of clever touches, again updated and modernised since the early models. Never the cheapest bluewater sailing yacht around, the Contest 50CS has remained in demand as a brokerage buy. She is a reassuringly sure-footed, easily handled, very well built yacht that for all those reasons has stood the test of time.

This is a yacht that would be well capable of helping you extend your cruising grounds, almost without realising it.

Read more about the Contest 50CS and the new Contest 49CS

Photo: Rick Tomlinson

Hallberg-Rassy 48 Mk II

For many, the Swedish Hallberg-Rassy yard makes the quintessential bluewater cruiser for couples. With their distinctive blue cove line, these designs are famous for their seakindly behaviour, solid-as-a-rock build and beautifully finished, traditional interiors.

To some eyes, Hallberg-Rassys aren’t quite cool enough, but it’s been company owner Magnus Rassy’s confidence in the formula and belief in incremental ‘step-by-step’ evolution that has been such an exceptional guarantor of reliable quality, reputation and resale value.

The centre cockpit Hallberg-Rassy 48 epitomises the concept of comfort at sea and, like all the Frers-designed Hallberg-Rassys since the 1990s, is surprisingly fleet upwind as well as steady downwind. The 48 is perfectly able to be handled by a couple (as we found a few years back in the Pacific), and could with no great effort crack out 200-mile days.

The Hallberg-Rassy 48 was launched nearly a decade ago, but the Mk II from 2014 is our pick, updated with a more modern profile, larger windows and hull portlights that flood the saloon and aft cabin with light. With a large chart table, secure linear galley, heaps of stowage and space for bluewater extras such as machinery and gear, this yacht pretty much ticks all the boxes.

Discovery 55

First launched in 2000, the Discovery 55 has stood the test of time. Designed by Ron Holland, it hit a sweet spot in size that appealed to couples and families with world girdling plans.

Elegantly styled and well balanced, the 55 is also a practical design, with a deep and secure cockpit, comfortable seating, a self-tacking jib, dedicated stowage for the liferaft , a decent sugar scoop transom that’s useful for swimming or dinghy access, and very comfortable accommodation below. In short, it is a design that has been well thought out by those who’ve been there, got the bruises, stubbed their toes and vowed to change things in the future if they ever got the chance.

Throughout the accommodation there are plenty of examples of good detailing, from the proliferation of handholds and grabrails, to deep sinks in the galley offering immediate stowage when under way and the stand up/sit down showers. Stowage is good, too, with plenty of sensibly sized lockers in easily accessible positions.

The Discovery 55 has practical ideas and nifty details aplenty. She’s not, and never was, a breakthrough in modern luxury cruising but she is pretty, comfortable to sail and live on, and well mannered.

Photo: Latitudes Picture Library

You can’t get much more Cornish than a Rustler. The hulls of this Stephen Jones design are hand-moulded and fitted out in Falmouth – and few are more ruggedly built than this traditional, up-for-anything offshore cruiser.

She boasts an encapsulated lead keel, eliminating keel bolts and creating a sump for generous fuel and water tankage, while a chunky skeg protects the rudder. She is designed for good directional stability and load carrying ability. These are all features that lend this yacht confidence as it shoulders aside the rough stuff.

Most of those built have had a cutter rig, a flexible arrangement that makes sense for long passages in all sea and weather conditions. Down below, the galley and saloon berths are comfortable and sensible for living in port and at sea, with joinery that Rustler’s builders are rightly proud of.

As modern yachts have got wider, higher and fatter, the Rustler 42 is an exception. This is an exceptionally well-mannered seagoing yacht in the traditional vein, with elegant lines and pleasing overhangs, yet also surprisingly powerful. And although now over 20 years old, timeless looks and qualities mean this design makes her look ever more like a perennial, a modern classic.

The definitive crossover size, the point at which a yacht can be handled by a couple but is just large enough to have a professional skipper and be chartered, sits at around the 60ft mark. At 58ft 8in, the Oyster 575 fitted perfectly into this growing market when launched in 2010. It went on to be one of the most popular models from the yard, and is only now being superseded by the newer Rob Humphreys-designed Oyster 565 (just launched this spring).

Built in various configurations with either a deep keel, shoal draught keel or centreboard with twin rudders, owners could trade off better performance against easy access to shallower coves and anchorages. The deep-bodied hull, also by Rob Humphreys, is known for its easy motion at sea.

Some of the Oyster 575’s best features include its hallmark coachroof windows style and centre cockpit – almost everyone will know at first glance this is an Oyster – and superb interior finish. If she has a flaw, it is arguably the high cockpit, but the flip side is the galley headroom and passageway berth to the large aft stateroom.

This design also has a host of practical features for long-distance cruising, such as high guardrails, dedicated liferaft stowage, a vast lazarette for swallowing sails, tender, fenders etc, and a penthouse engine room.

Privilege Serie 5

A true luxury catamaran which, fully fitted out, will top €1m, this deserves to be seen alongside the likes of the Oyster 575, Gunfleet 58 and Hallberg-Rassy 55. It boasts a large cockpit and living area, and a light and spacious saloon with an emphasis on indoor-outdoor living, masses of refrigeration and a big galley.

Standout features are finish quality and solid build in a yacht designed to take a high payload, a secure walkaround deck and all-round views from the helm station. The new Privilege 510 that will replace this launches in February 2020.

Gunfleet 43

It was with this Tony Castro design that Richard Matthews, founder of Oyster Yachts, launched a brand new rival brand in 2012, the smallest of a range stretching to the flagship Gunfleet 74. The combination of short overhangs and centre cockpit at this size do make the Gunfleet 43 look modern if a little boxy, but time and subsequent design trends have been kind to her lines, and the build quality is excellent. The saloon, galley and aft cabin space is exceptional on a yacht of this size.

Photo: David Harding

Conceived as a belt-and-braces cruiser, the Kraken 50 launched last year. Its unique points lie underwater in the guise of a full skeg-hung rudder and so-called ‘Zero Keel’, an encapsulated long keel with lead ballast.

Kraken Yachts is the brainchild of British businessman and highly experienced cruiser Dick Beaumont, who is adamant that safety should be foremost in cruising yacht design and build. “There is no such thing as ‘one yacht for all purposes’… You cannot have the best of all worlds, whatever the salesman tells you,” he says.

Read our full review of the Kraken 50 .

Wauquiez Centurion 57

Few yachts can claim to be both an exciting Med-style design and a serious and practical northern European offshore cruiser, but the Wauquiez Centurion 57 tries to blend both. She slightly misses if you judge solely by either criterion, but is pretty and practical enough to suit her purpose.

A very pleasant, well-considered yacht, she is impressively built and finished with a warm and comfortable interior. More versatile than radical, she could be used for sailing across the Atlantic in comfort and raced with equal enjoyment at Antigua Sailing Week .

A modern classic if ever there was one. A medium to heavy displacement yacht, stiff and easily capable of standing up to her canvas. Pretty, traditional lines and layout below.

Photo: Voyage of Swell

Well-proven US legacy design dating back to the mid-1960s that once conquered the Transpac Race . Still admired as pretty, with slight spoon bow and overhanging transom.

Capable medium displacement cruiser, ideal size and good accommodation for couples or family cruising, and much less costly than similar luxury brands.

Photo: Peter Szamer

Swedish-built aft cockpit cruiser, smaller than many here, but a well-built and finished, super-durable pocket ocean cruiser.

Tartan 3700

Designed as a performance cruiser there are nimbler alternatives now, but this is still an extremely pretty yacht.

Broker ’ s choice

Discovery 55 Brizo

This yacht has already circumnavigated the globe and is ‘prepared for her next adventure,’ says broker Berthon. Price: £535,000 + VAT

Oyster 575 Ayesha

‘Stunning, and perfectly equipped for bluewater cruising,’ says broker Ancasta International. Price: £845,000 (tax not paid)

Oyster 575 Pearls of Nautilus

Nearly new and with a high spec, this Oyster Brokerage yacht features American white oak joinery and white leather upholstery and has a shoal draught keel. Price: $1.49m

Best bluewater yachts for performance

The Frers-designed Swan 54 may not be the newest hull shape but heralded Swan’s latest generation of displacement bluewater cruisers when launched four years ago. With raked stem, deep V hull form, lower freeboard and slight curve to the topsides she has a more timeless aesthetic than many modern slab-sided high volume yachts, and with that a seakindly motion in waves. If you plan to cover many miles to weather, this is probably the yacht you want to be on.

Photo: Carlo Borlenghi

Besides Swan’s superlative build quality, the 54 brings many true bluewater features, including a dedicated sail locker. There’s also a cockpit locker that functions as a utility cabin, with potential to hold your generator and washing machine, or be a workshop space.

The sloping transom opens out to reveal a 2.5m bathing platform, and although the cabins are not huge there is copious stowage space. Down below the top-notch oak joinery is well thought through with deep fiddles, and there is a substantial nav station. But the Swan 54 wins for handling above all, with well laid-out sail controls that can be easily managed between a couple, while offering real sailing enjoyment to the helmsman.

Photo: Graham Snook

The Performance Cruiser winner at the 2019 European Yacht of the Year awards, the Arcona 435 is all about the sailing experience. She has genuine potential as a cruiser-racer, but her strengths are as an enjoyable cruiser rather than a full-blown liveaboard bluewater boat.

Build quality is excellent, there is the option of a carbon hull and deck, and elegant lines and a plumb bow give the Arcona 435 good looks as well as excellent performance in light airs. Besides slick sail handling systems, there are well thought-out features for cruising, such as ample built-in rope bins and an optional semi-closed stern with stowage and swim platform.

Outremer 51

If you want the space and stability of a cat but still prioritise sailing performance, Outremer has built a reputation on building catamarans with true bluewater characteristics that have cruised the planet for the past 30 years.

Lighter and slimmer-hulled than most cruising cats, the Outremer 51 is all about sailing at faster speeds, more easily. The lower volume hulls and higher bridgedeck make for a better motion in waves, while owners report that being able to maintain a decent pace even under reduced canvas makes for stress-free passages. Deep daggerboards also give good upwind performance.

With bucket seats and tiller steering options, the Outremer 51 rewards sailors who want to spend time steering, while they’re famously well set up for handling with one person on deck. The compromise comes with the interior space – even with a relatively minimalist style, there is less cabin space and stowage volume than on the bulkier cats, but the Outremer 51 still packs in plenty of practical features.

The Xc45 was the first cruising yacht X-Yachts ever built, and designed to give the same X-Yachts sailing experience for sailors who’d spent years racing 30/40-footer X- and IMX designs, but in a cruising package.

Launched over 10 years ago, the Xc45 has been revisited a few times to increase the stowage and modernise some of the styling, but the key features remain the same, including substantial tanks set low for a low centre of gravity, and X-Yachts’ trademark steel keel grid structure. She has fairly traditional styling and layout, matched with solid build quality.

A soft bilge and V-shaped hull gives a kindly motion in waves, and the cockpit is secure, if narrow by modern standards.

A three or four cabin catamaran that’s fleet of foot with high bridgedeck clearance for comfortable motion at sea. With tall daggerboards and carbon construction in some high load areas, Catana cats are light and quick to accelerate.

Sweden Yachts 45

An established bluewater design that also features in plenty of offshore races. Some examples are specced with carbon rig and retractable bowsprits. All have a self-tacking jib for ease. Expect sweeping areas of teak above decks and a traditionally wooded interior with hanging wet locker.

A vintage performer, first launched in 1981, the 51 was the first Frers-designed Swan and marked a new era of iconic cruiser-racers. Some 36 of the Swan 51 were built, many still actively racing and cruising nearly 40 years on. Classic lines and a split cockpit make this a boat for helming, not sunbathing.

Photo: Julien Girardot / EYOTY

The JPK 45 comes from a French racing stable, combining race-winning design heritage with cruising amenities. What you see is what you get – there are no superfluous headliners or floorboards, but there are plenty of ocean sailing details, like inboard winches for safe trimming. The JPK 45 also has a brilliantly designed cockpit with an optional doghouse creating all-weather shelter, twin wheels and superb clutch and rope bin arrangement.

Photo: Andreas Lindlahr

For sailors who don’t mind exchanging a few creature comforts for downwind planing performance, the Pogo 50 offers double-digit surfing speeds for exhilarating tradewind sailing. There’s an open transom, tiller steering and no backstay or runners. The Pogo 50 also has a swing keel, to nose into shallow anchorages.

Seawind 1600

Seawinds are relatively unknown in Europe, but these bluewater cats are very popular in Australia. As would be expected from a Reichel-Pugh design, this 52-footer combines striking good looks and high performance, with fine entry bows and comparatively low freeboard. Rudders are foam cored lifting designs in cassettes, which offer straightforward access in case of repairs, while daggerboards are housed under the deck.

Best bluewater sailboats for families

It’s unsurprising that, for many families, it’s a catamaran that meets their requirements best of increased space – both living space and separate cabins for privacy-seeking teenagers, additional crew or visiting family – as well as stable and predictable handling.

Photo: Nicholas Claris

Undoubtedly one of the biggest success stories has been the Lagoon 450, which, together with boats like the Fountaine Pajot 44, helped drive up the popularity of catamaran cruising by making it affordable and accessible. They have sold in huge numbers – over 1,000 Lagoon 450s have been built since its launch in 2010.

The VPLP-designed 450 was originally launched with a flybridge with a near central helming position and upper level lounging areas (450F). The later ‘sport top’ option (450S) offered a starboard helm station and lower boom (and hence lower centre of gravity for reduced pitching). The 450S also gained a hull chine to create additional volume above the waterline. The Lagoon features forward lounging and aft cockpit areas for additional outdoor living space.

Besides being a big hit among charter operators, Lagoons have proven themselves over thousands of bluewater miles – there were seven Lagoon 450s in last year’s ARC alone. In what remains a competitive sector of the market, Lagoon has recently launched a new 46, with a larger self-tacking jib and mast moved aft, and more lounging areas.

Photo: Gilles Martin-Raget

Fountaine Pajot Helia 44

The FP Helia 44 is lighter, lower volume, and has a lower freeboard than the Lagoon, weighing in at 10.8 tonnes unloaded (compared to 15 for the 450). The helm station is on a mezzanine level two steps up from the bridgedeck, with a bench seat behind. A later ‘Evolution’ version was designed for liveaboard cruisers, featuring beefed up dinghy davits and an improved saloon space.

Available in three or four cabin layouts, the Helia 44 was also popular with charter owners as well as families. The new 45 promises additional volume, and an optional hydraulically lowered ‘beach club’ swim platform.

Photo: Arnaud De Buyzer / graphikup.com

The French RM 1370 might be less well known than the big brand names, but offers something a little bit different for anyone who wants a relatively voluminous cruising yacht. Designed by Marc Lombard, and beautifully built from plywood/epoxy, the RM is stiff and responsive, and sails superbly.

The RM yachts have a more individual look – in part down to the painted finish, which encourages many owners to personalise their yachts, but also thanks to their distinctive lines with reverse sheer and dreadnought bow. The cockpit is well laid out with the primary winches inboard for a secure trimming position. The interior is light, airy and modern, although the open transom won’t appeal to everyone.

For those wanting a monohull, the Hanse 575 hits a similar sweet spot to the popular multis, maximising accommodation for a realistic price, yet with responsive performance.

The Hanse offers a vast amount of living space thanks to the ‘loft design’ concept of having all the living areas on a single level, which gives a real feeling of spaciousness with no raised saloon or steps to accommodation. The trade-off for such lofty head height is a substantial freeboard – it towers above the pontoon, while, below, a stepladder is provided to reach some hatches.

Galley options include drawer fridge-freezers, microwave and coffee machine, and the full size nav station can double up as an office or study space.

But while the Hanse 575 is a seriously large boat, its popularity is also down to the fact that it is genuinely able to be handled by a couple. It was innovative in its deck layout: with a self-tacking jib and mainsheet winches immediately to hand next to the helm, one person could both steer and trim.

Direct steering gives a feeling of control and some tangible sailing fun, while the waterline length makes for rapid passage times. In 2016 the German yard launched the newer Hanse 588 model, having already sold 175 of the 575s in just four years.

Photo: Bertel Kolthof

Jeanneau 54

Jeanneau leads the way among production builders for versatile all-rounder yachts that balance sail performance and handling, ergonomics, liveaboard functionality and good looks. The Jeanneau 54 , part of the range designed by Philippe Briand with interior by Andrew Winch, melds the best of the larger and smaller models and is available in a vast array of layout options from two cabins/two heads right up to five cabins and three heads.

We’ve tested the Jeanneau 54 in a gale and very light winds, and it acquitted itself handsomely in both extremes. The primary and mainsheet winches are to hand next to the wheel, and the cockpit is spacious, protected and child-friendly. An electric folding swim and sun deck makes for quick fun in the water.

Nautitech Open 46

This was the first Nautitech catamaran to be built under the ownership of Bavaria, designed with an open-plan bridgedeck and cockpit for free-flowing living space. But with good pace for eating up bluewater miles, and aft twin helms rather than a flybridge, the Nautitech Open 46 also appeals to monohull sailors who prefer a more direct sailing experience.

Made by Robertson and Caine, who produce catamarans under a dual identity as both Leopard and the Sunsail/Moorings charter cats, the Leopard 45 is set to be another big seller. Reflecting its charter DNA, the Leopard 45 is voluminous, with stepped hulls for reduced waterline, and a separate forward cockpit.

Built in South Africa, they are robustly tested off the Cape and constructed ruggedly enough to handle heavy weather sailing as well as the demands of chartering.

Photo: Olivier Blanchet

If space is king then three hulls might be even better than two. The Neel 51 is rare as a cruising trimaran with enough space for proper liveaboard sailing. The galley and saloon are in the large central hull, together with an owner’s cabin on one level for a unique sensation of living above the water. Guest or family cabins lie in the outer hulls for privacy and there is a cavernous full height engine room under the cabin sole.

Performance is notably higher than an equivalent cruising cat, particularly in light winds, with a single rudder giving a truly direct feel in the helm, although manoeuvring a 50ft trimaran may daunt many sailors.

Beneteau Oceanis 46.1

A brilliant new model from Beneteau, this Finot Conq design has a modern stepped hull, which offers exhilarating and confidence-inspiring handling in big breezes, and slippery performance in lighter winds.

The Beneteau Oceanis 46.1 was the standout performer at this year’s European Yacht of the Year awards, and, in replacing the popular Oceanis 45, looks set to be another bestseller. Interior space is well used with a double island berth in the forepeak. An additional inboard unit creates a secure galley area, but tank capacity is moderate for long periods aboard.

Beneteau Oceanis 473

A popular model that offers beam and height in a functional layout, although, as with many boats of this age (she was launched in 2002), the mainsheet is not within reach of the helmsman.

Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 49

The Philippe Briand-designed Sun Odyssey range has a solid reputation as family production cruisers. Like the 473, the Sun Odyssey 49 was popular for charter so there are plenty of four-cabin models on the market.

Nautitech 441

The hull design dates back to 1995, but was relaunched in 2012. Though the saloon interior has dated, the 441 has solid practical features, such as a rainwater run-off collection gutter around the coachroof.

Atlantic 42

Chris White-designed cats feature a pilothouse and forward waist-high working cockpit with helm position, as well as an inside wheel at the nav station. The Atlantic 42 offers limited accommodation by modern cat standards but a very different sailing experience.

Best bluewater sailing yachts for expeditions

Bestevaer 56.

All of the yachts in our ‘expedition’ category are aluminium-hulled designs suitable for high latitude sailing, and all are exceptional yachts. But the Bestevaer 56 is a spectacular amount of boat to take on a true adventure. Each Bestevaer is a near-custom build with plenty of bespoke options for owners to customise the layout and where they fall on the scale of rugged off-grid adventurer to 4×4-style luxury fit out.

The Bestevaer range began when renowned naval architect Gerard Dijkstra chose to design his own personal yacht for liveaboard adventure cruising, a 53-footer. The concept drew plenty of interest from bluewater sailors wanting to make longer expeditions and Bestevaers are now available in a range of sizes, with the 56-footer proving a popular mid-range length.

The well-known Bestevaer 56 Tranquilo  (pictured above) has a deep, secure cockpit, voluminous tanks (700lt water and over 1,100lt fuel) and a lifting keel plus water ballast, with classically styled teak clad decks and pilot house. Other owners have opted for functional bare aluminium hull and deck, some choose a doghouse and others a pilothouse.

Photo: Jean-Marie Liot

The Boreal 52 also offers Land Rover-esque practicality, with utilitarian bare aluminium hulls and a distinctive double-level doghouse/coachroof arrangement for added protection in all weathers. The cockpit is clean and uncluttered, thanks to the mainsheet position on top of the doghouse, although for visibility in close manoeuvring the helmsman will want to step up onto the aft deck.

Twin daggerboards, a lifting centreboard and long skeg on which she can settle make this a true go-anywhere expedition yacht. The metres of chain required for adventurous anchoring is stowed in a special locker by the mast to keep the weight central. Down below has been thought through with equally practical touches, including plenty of bracing points and lighting that switches on to red light first to protect your night vision.

Photo: Morris Adant / Garcia Yachts

Garcia Exploration 45

The Garcia Exploration 45 comes with real experience behind her – she was created in association with Jimmy Cornell, based on his many hundreds of thousands of miles of bluewater cruising, to go anywhere from high latitudes to the tropics.

Arguably less of a looker than the Bestevaer, the Garcia Exploration 45 features a rounded aluminium hull, centreboard with deep skeg and twin daggerboards. The considerable anchor chain weight has again been brought aft, this time via a special conduit to a watertight locker in front of the centreboard.

This is a yacht designed to be lived on for extended periods with ample storage, and panoramic portlights to give a near 360° view of whichever extraordinary landscape you are exploring. Safety features include a watertight companionway door to keep extreme weather out and through-hull fittings placed above the waterline. When former Vendée Globe skipper Pete Goss went cruising , this was the boat he chose to do it in.

Photo: svnaima.com

A truly well-proven expedition design, some 1,500 Ovnis have been built and many sailed to some of the most far-flung corners of the world. (Jimmy Cornell sailed his Aventura some 30,000 miles, including two Drake Passage crossings, one in 50 knots of wind).

Futuna Exploration 54

Another aluminium design with a swinging centreboard and a solid enclosed pilothouse with protected cockpit area. There’s a chunky bowsprit and substantial transom arch to house all manner of electronics and power generation.

Previous boats have been spec’d for North West Passage crossings with additional heating and engine power, although there’s a carbon rig option for those that want a touch of the black stuff. The tanks are capacious, with 1,000lt capability for both fresh water and fuel.

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Home » Blog » Bluewater sailboats » The best bluewater sailboats (we analyzed 2,000 boats to find out)

The best bluewater sailboats (we analyzed 2,000 boats to find out)

By Author Fiona McGlynn

Posted on Last updated: May 16, 2023

We analyzed two-thousand bluewater sailboats to bring you a list of proven offshore designs

What are the best bluewater sailboats?

This was a question we asked a lot of experienced cruisers when we decided to sail across the Pacific. We needed a boat after all, and we wanted to buy the best bluewater sailboat we could afford.

We heard a lot of strong opinions.

Some sailors thought it was reckless to go offshore in any boat that didn’t have a full keel.

Others prioritized performance, and wouldn’t dream of going anywhere in a slow boat like the Westsail 32 (a.k.a. a “Wet Snail 32”).

Opinions like these left us feeling confused like we had to choose between safety and performance.  

If we learned anything from these conversations, it’s that what makes a bluewater boat is a hotly debated topic!

However, there’s a way to cut through all the opinions and get to the bottom of it. The solution is….

We analyzed just under 2,000 boats embarking on ocean crossings (over a 12 year time period) and came up with a list of the ten best bluewater sailboats.

Where did we get our data?

The data for our best bluewater sailboats list comes from 12 years of entries in the Pacific Puddle Jump (PPJ), an annual cross-Pacific rally. We took part in 2017 and had a ball!

You can read about the methodology we used to analyze this data at the bottom of the post.

What do we mean by “best”?

We know, that word is overused on the internet!

Simply, based on our data set, these were the most common makes and models entered in the PPJ cross-Pacific rally. There were at least 10 PPJ rally entries for every make of boat on our top 10 list.

So, these boats are 100% good to go?

No! A bluewater boat isn’t necessarily a seaworthy boat. Almost every cruiser we know made substantial repairs and additions to get their offshore boat ready, adding watermakers , life rafts, solar panels, and more.

Also, you should always have a boat inspected by a professional and accredited marine surveyor before buying it or taking it offshore.

But my bluewater baby boat isn’t on this list!?

There are hundreds of excellent bluewater yachts that are not on this list. For instance, we sailed across the Pacific in a Dufour 35, which didn’t even come close to making our top 10 list.

Choosing the right boat is very much an individual journey.

Where can I find these bluewater boats for sale?

We recognize that a top 10 list won’t get you very far if you’re shopping for a bluewater boat (especially if you’re looking in the used market).

So, to help you find your perfect boat, we’re going to create a big list of bluewater boats that you can use to refine your search on Yachtworld, Craigslist, or any other places to buy a used boat .

Sign up for our newsletter to get our big list of bluewater boats list as soon as it comes out.

We’re also working on a series of posts by size class. For example, if you’re looking for a smaller boat, you can narrow it down to the best bluewater sailboats under 40 feet .

Takeaways from our analysis

There were no big surprises on an individual boat level. All of these makes are considered good cruisers, some of them are even best-selling designs! However, there were a few things that caught our eye.

“Go simple, go small, go now” still holds water

We were thrilled to see the smallest boat in our roundup at the very top of the list! Westsail 32 owners can take pride in their small but mighty yachts (and ignore all those snail-sayers).

While undoubtedly there’s been a trend towards bigger bluewater cruisers in recent years, small cruising sailboats seem to be holding their own. 60% of the monohulls on this list were under 40 feet (if you count the Valiant 40 which sneaks just under at 39.92 feet).

Cat got our tongue

So, we knew catamarans were a thing, but we didn’t fully appreciate HOW popular they’d become!

50% of our top 10 bluewater boat list consists of catamarans—a good fact to toss out the next time you’re trying to garner a happy hour invite on the party boat next door (which will undoubtedly be a catamaran).

Still got it!

We’ve got good news for all you good old boat lovers! 60% of the boats on our list were first built before 2000.

While these older models are less performance-oriented than modern designs, cruisers value these boats for their ability to stand up to rough seas and heavy weather. It just goes to show that solid bones and classic looks never go out of style.

Alright, without further ado, let’s dive into our list of the 10 best bluewater boats!

The 10 best bluewater boats

1. Westsail 32

The Westsail 32 is one of the most iconic bluewater cruisers and 19 have set out to cross the Pacific in the PPJ rally since 2009.

In 1973, this small cruising sailboat garnered a 4-page spread in Time magazine. The article inspired many Americans to set sail and the Westsail 32, with its double-ender design, set the standard for what a real bluewater cruiser should look like.

There were approximately 830 built between 1971 and 1980.

This small boat has taken sailors on ocean crossings and circumnavigations. Though considered “slow” by some, the heavily-built Westsail 32 has developed a loyal following for her other excellent offshore cruising characteristics.

If you’re interested in small bluewater sailboats, check out our post on the best small sailboats for sailing around the world .

2. Lagoon 380

The Lagoon 380 is a reliable, solidly built catamaran and considered roomy for its size. We counted 18 of them in our data set. With over 800 boats built , it may be one of the best-selling catamarans in the world. Like the other boats on this list, the Lagoon 380 has proven itself on long passages and ocean crossings, winning it many loyal fans.

3. Lagoon 440

18 Lagoon 440s have set out to cross the Pacific in the PPJ rally since 2009.

Why leave the comforts of home, when you can take them with you? The Lagoon 440 is a luxurious long-range cruiser, offering beautiful wood joinery, spacious accommodations, and a deluxe galley. Oh, and you have the option of an electric boat motor !

SAIL and Sailing Magazine have both done in-depth reviews of the Lagoon 440 if you want to learn more.

4. Amel Super Maramu (incl. SM 2000)

If you follow the adventures of SV Delos on YouTube, you probably know that the star of the show (SV Delos— in case the title didn’t give it away ) is an Amel Super Maramu. These classic bluewater sailboats can be found all over the world, proof they can go the distance.

We counted 16 Amel Super Maramus and Super Maramu 2000s in our list of PPJ entries.

Ready to join the cult of Amel? Read more about the iconic brand in Yachting World.

5. Valiant 40

When I interviewed legendary yacht designer, Bob Perry, for Good Old Boat in 2019, he told me that the Valiant 40 was one of the boats that most defined him and marked the real start of his career.

At the time, heavy displacement cruisers were considered sluggish and slow, especially in light winds.

Perry’s innovation with the Valiant 40 was to combine a classic double ender above the waterline, with an IOR racing hull shape below the waterline. The result was the first “performance cruiser”, a blockbuster hit, with over 200 boats built in the 1970s.

It’s no surprise we counted 16 Valiant 40s in our data set.

Cruising World magazine dubbed it “a fast, comfortable, and safe cruising yacht,” and there’s no doubt it’s covered some serious nautical miles.

It’s worth noting that there were blistering problems with hull numbers 120-249 (boats built between 1976 and 1981). Later models did not have this problem. Despite the blistering issues, the Valiant 40 remains one of the most highly thought of bluewater designs.

6. TAYANA 37

The Tayana 37 is another hugely popular Perry design. The first boat rolled off the production line in 1976 and since then, nearly 600 boats have been built. Beautiful classic lines and a proven track record have won the Tayana 37 a devoted following of offshore enthusiasts.

12 Tayana 37s have set out to cross the Pacific in the PPJ rally since 2009. Read more about the Tayana 37 in this Practical Sailor review .

7. Lagoon 450

If this list is starting to sound like a paid advertisement, I swear we’re not on Lagoon’s payroll! This is the third Lagoon on our list, but the data doesn’t lie. Lagoon is making some of the best cruising sailboats.

The 450 has been a hot seller for Lagoon, with over 800 built since its launch in 2014. While not a performance cat, the Lagoon 450 travels at a reasonable speed and is brimming with luxury amenities.

At least 12 owners in the PPJ rally chose the Lagoon 450 to take them across the Pacific. It’s no wonder SAIL had so many good things to say about it.

8. Fountaine Pajot Bahia 46

There were 11 Fountaine Pajot Bahia 46s in our data set.

Fountaine Pajot released the Bahia 46 in 1997, a sleek design for traveling long distances. Its generously-sized water and fuel tanks along with ample storage for cruising gear are a real plus for the self-sufficient sailor.

According to Cruising World , “Cruising-cat aficionados should put the Bahia 46 on their “must-see” list.”

9. Catalina 42 (MKI, MKII)

10 Catalina 42s (MKI and MKII) have set out to cross the Pacific in the PPJ rally since 2009.

The Catalina 42 was designed under the guidance of the legendary yacht designer and Catalina’s chief engineer, Gerry Douglas.

One of Catalina’s philosophies is to offer “as much boat for the money as possible,” and the Catalina 42 is no exception. According to Practical Sailor , Catalina aims to price its boats 15% to 20% below major production boats like Hunter and Beneteau.

Practical Sailor has a great in-depth review of the Catalina 42 .

10. Leopard 46

Since 2009, 10 Leopard 46s have embarked on Pacific crossings in the PPJ rally.

Leopards have won legions of fans for their high build quality, robust engineering, and excellent performance.

The Leopard 46 also boasts something of a racing pedigree. It was built in South Africa by Robertson and Caine and designed by Gino Morelli and Pete Melvin, who came up with the record-breaking catamaran Playstation / Cheyenne 125 .

Read more about the Leopard 46 in this Cruising World review .

Methodology

What the data is and isn’t.

The PPJ data was a real boon because it reflects a wide range of cruising boats: small, big, old, new, expensive, and affordable. We think this may be because the PPJ is a very financially accessible rally—the standard entry cost is $125 or $100 if you’re under 35 (age or boat length!).

We did look at data from other (pricier) rallies but found that the results skewed towards more expensive boats.

Needless to say, the data we used is just a sample of the bluewater boats that crossed the Pacific over the last 10+ years. Many cruisers cross oceans without participating in a rally!

Entries vs. completions

The data we used is a list of the PPJ entries, not necessarily the boats that completed the rally. In instances where we saw the same boat entered multiple years in a row, we assumed they’d postponed their crossing and deleted all but the latest entry to avoid double counting.

Boat make variations

The world of boat building and naming can get pretty complicated. Sometimes a manufacturer changes a boat’s name a year or two into production, other times the name remains the same but the boat undergoes a dramatic update.

For the most part, we’ve used SailboatData.com’s classification system (if they list the boats separately, then we have also), except where there are two separately listed models that have the same LOA, beam, and displacement.

Fiona McGlynn is an award-winning boating writer who created Waterborne as a place to learn about living aboard and traveling the world by sailboat. She has written for boating magazines including BoatUS, SAIL, Cruising World, and Good Old Boat. She’s also a contributing editor at Good Old Boat and BoatUS Magazine. In 2017, Fiona and her husband completed a 3-year, 13,000-mile voyage from Vancouver to Mexico to Australia on their 35-foot sailboat.

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7 Legendary Solo Bluewater Sailboats Worth Considering

When setting out to explore the open seas solo, you'll have to choose the right bluewater sailboat from so very many available options. The perfect boat for sailing single-handed is one that's not only safe and seaworthy, but also easy to handle on your own. In this article, we've handpicked the top 7 legendary solo bluewater sailboats worth considering for their excellent track records.

The most legendary solo bluewater sailboats are the Contessa 32, Westsail 32, Hallberg-Rassy 42F, Pacific Seacraft 37, Island Packet 38, Tayana 42, and Amel 54. These boats have it all: from robust designs to a world-renowned reputation for performance and reliability. They are known for their seaworthiness, durability, and comfort.

We understand the importance of balancing comfort and performance when spending prolonged periods at sea. Each of these sailboats has been proven to provide a harmonious blend of these attributes. Let's get to know them more below.

• Solo bluewater sailboats are designed to be sailed by a single person, making them ideal for solo circumnavigation or long-distance cruising.
• You can get the Contessa 32 and Westsail 32 for as little as $30,000.
• The maintenance and repair costs of the seven boats range from $5,000 to $50,000 per year.
• Marina fees and insurance can range from $5,000 to $20,000 per year.
• Factor in upgrades and equipment costs that can reach up to $100,000.

On this page:

The best solo bluewater sailboats, what makes a good solo bluewater sailboat, cost considerations when choosing a sailboat, maintaining your bluewater sailboat, contessa 32 is a classic, compact, and seaworthy sailboat.

Contessa 32's sturdy construction and excellent sailing performance have earned it a legendary reputation among sailors. With a well-designed interior layout, it has space for living aboard during your solo adventures. The Contessa 32 is a classic bluewater sailboat designed by David Sadler in the 1970s. It is known for its excellent balance, seaworthiness, and speed. It has a full keel, moderate displacement, and a classic design that has stood the test of time.

Westsail 32 is known for its rugged construction

The Westsail 32 gained fame as an affordable, rugged, and capable long-distance cruiser. Its full keel and sturdy hull ensure a comfortable ride in rough seas. The practical, function-driven interior makes it easy for solo sailors to maintain and navigate the vessel while providing essential amenities for an extended voyage.

Westsail 32 is another classic bluewater sailboat that was designed by William Crealock in the 1970s. It is known for its rugged construction, spacious interior, and excellent performance in heavy weather. The Westsail 32 has a full keel, heavy displacement, and a classic double-ender design.

Hallberg-Rassy 42F is known for its top-notch craftsmanship

The Hallberg-Rassy 42F is another superb choice for single-handed bluewater sailing. This Swedish-built yacht is well-renowned for its top-notch craftsmanship, stability, and comfort. It offers a spacious, well-lit interior, ensuring you'll enjoy your time below deck while cruising the open seas.

Hallberg-Rassy 42F is a modern bluewater sailboat designed by German Frers in the 1990s. It is known for its luxurious interior, excellent performance, and high-quality construction. The Hallberg-Rassy 42F has a fin keel, a spade rudder, and a modern design that combines comfort and performance.

Pacific Seacraft 37 is designed for serious cruising

Pacific Seacraft 37 is a sturdy and reliable boat for solo sailors. Its moderate displacement and full keel provide excellent stability, while the well-thought-out interior layout includes abundant storage and comfortable living quarters. Its reputation as a proven bluewater cruiser makes it a top choice for solo sailors. The Pacific Seacraft 37 is another classic bluewater sailboat designed by Bill Crealock in the 1970s. It is known for its excellent balance, seaworthiness, and comfort.

Island Packet 38 is known for its spacious interior

Island Packet 38 is a popular choice among solo cruisers, thanks to its stable full keel design and living space. Its build quality, comfort, and performance make it well-suited for long-distance sailing. The spacious interior and practical layout ensure you have everything needed for a successful solo journey. Island Packet 38 is a modern bluewater sailboat designed by Bob Johnson in the 1990s. It 38 has a full keel, moderate displacement, and a modern design that combines comfort and performance.

Aside from bluewater sailing , there are other types of sailing discussed in this article.

Tayana 42 is known for its excellent balance, seaworthiness, and comfort

Tayana 42 is a comfortable, sea-kindly sailboat, ideal for single-handed offshore cruising. Its balanced performance, easy handling, and well-equipped interior ensure a safe and comfortable journey. It is well-regarded among sailors for its proven bluewater capabilities and timeless styling. The Tayana 42 is another classic bluewater sailboat designed by Bob Perry in the 1970s. It has a full keel, heavy displacement, and a classic design that has stood the test of time.

The Amel 54 is known for its luxury and exceptional build quality

This French-built vessel offers a spacious and comfortable interior with top-of-the-line amenities, making it an excellent option for solo sailors seeking a bluewater cruiser to explore the world in style and comfort. Its easy-to-handle design with advanced sailing systems allows you to sail solo with confidence and ease. The system includes electric winches, furling sails, and a self-tacking jib, which make it easy to handle the boat in all conditions.

To learn more about bluewater sailing , here's our comprehensive article on it.

These factors will ensure not only your safety but also your comfort and ease during your sailing adventure.

Size and stability of a solo sailboat

A boat with a wide beam and short waterline provides more stability, making it easier for you to handle the vessel on your own. Some popular sailboat models known for their size and stability include the Westsail 32 and the Hunter Channel 31.

A good solo bluewater sailboat should be large enough to provide adequate storage space for supplies and equipment, while also being stable enough to handle rough seas and high winds. It should also have a well-designed hull shape that provides good stability and balance, and a keel that provides good tracking and prevents the boat from capsizing.

Ease of use and maneuverability of any solo sailboat

Features like roller furling and an electric windlass can make handling the sails and anchor much more straightforward. Also, hydraulic bow/stern thrusters with remotes can help you maneuver your boat easily and safely. Make sure to look for these features when choosing your bluewater sailboat.

A good solo bluewater sailboat should be easy to handle and operate by a single person. It should have a sail plan that is easy to adjust and control, and a steering system that is responsive and easy to use. It should also have a well-designed cockpit that provides good visibility and protection from the elements.

Durability and seaworthiness for long-term safety

A well-built sailboat with a history of proven offshore performance should be at the top of your list. Some of the best and most famous bluewater sailboats include the Alberg 30 and Hanse 371.

A good solo bluewater sailboat should be built to withstand the rigors of extended ocean voyages. It should have a strong, well-built hull that is capable of withstanding heavy seas and high winds. It should also have a well-designed rigging system that is strong and durable, and a keel that is designed to provide good stability and balance.

To learn more about the best keel design for bluewater sailing , here's our article on it.

Comfort and livability of a solo sailboat

Consider the layout and features of the boat, ensuring that it has a comfortable sleeping area, a well-equipped galley, and ample storage space. A good example is the Valiant 40, known for its excellent layout and seaworthiness.

A good solo bluewater sailboat should be comfortable and livable for extended periods of time. It should have a well-designed interior that provides adequate storage space, comfortable sleeping quarters, and a functional galley and head. It should also have good ventilation and lighting, and be well-insulated to provide protection from the elements.

Affordability and availability determine the sailboat's practicality

Set a budget and research suitable sailboats within that price range. Some budget-friendly options include the J/109 and Westsail 32. A good solo bluewater sailboat should be reasonably priced and readily available. It should be affordable for most sailors who are interested in long-distance cruising, and should be available for purchase or charter in most parts of the world.

If you're looking for bluewater sailboats under 40 feet , here's our article where we picked the top 13 most famous ones.

You'll be faced with a range of solo bluewater sailboat options, from budget-friendly to luxury models. Let's explore some factors you should keep in mind to make the best decision for your needs and budget.

Initial purchase price : This is often the first thing people think of when it comes to the cost of a sailboat. There's a wide range in prices, depending on factors like age, size, and brand. For example, a used Alberg 30 might cost between $10,000 and $15,000, while a new Amel 54 could be in the range of hundreds of thousands of dollars. It's important to find a balance between quality and affordability that suits your needs and financial capabilities.

Maintenance and repairs : Owning a sailboat comes with ongoing expenses to keep it in good sailing condition. Regular maintenance tasks like painting, replacing worn rigging, and inspecting safety equipment can add up over time. Be prepared to allocate a portion of your budget for these essential tasks, as neglecting them could lead to more expensive repairs down the line.

Marina fees and insurance : Depending on where you plan to keep your boat, you may incur costs for marina or dockage fees. Additionally, securing insurance coverage for your sailboat is a must to protect your investment. Both of these costs can vary widely, so make sure you factor them into your overall budget.

Upgrades and equipment : To ensure your sailboat is well-suited for solo bluewater sailing, you might need to invest in upgrades to improve its safety and performance. For instance, you may want to add a roller furling system, wind vane, or more advanced navigation equipment. These enhancements can amount to a significant investment, so it's wise to plan financially for any desired upgrades.

Here are some essential tips to keep your boat in top shape, and ensure its long life and performance during solo journeys:

Regular inspections : Make it a habit to perform a thorough inspection of your sailboat periodically. Examine the rigging, sails, hull, and all mechanical components. Routine inspections allow you to detect any signs of wear, damage or potential problems before they escalate.

Cleaning : Keep your sailboat clean by washing it regularly with freshwater and appropriate cleaning solutions. This simple practice prevents the buildup of dirt, salt, and other debris, which can cause corrosion and damage to your vessel over time.

Checking the bilge : Ensure that your bilge pump is working efficiently and that there's no water accumulating in the bilge area. If there are any signs of water accumulation, investigate the source and address any leaks or issues promptly.

Servicing the winches : Winches play a crucial role in your sailboat’s performance, so it’s essential to inspect, clean, and grease them regularly. This practice will guarantee their smooth operation and prolong their lifespan.

Sail care : Inspect your sails frequently for any tears, wear, or damage. Repair or replace them as necessary. To protect your sails from the sun’s harmful UV rays, always use a sail cover when not in use.

Keeping records : Maintain a logbook to document all maintenance tasks, inspections, and repairs. Not only will this help you keep track of what has been done, but it will also provide valuable information if you decide to sell your sailboat in the future.

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Editor’s Choice: 18 Bluewater Sailboats We Love

Advantages of bluewater sailboats, factors to consider when buying a blue water sailboat, allures 51.9, contest 55cs, discovery revelation 480, grand soleil 42 lc, hallberg-rassy 48mk ii, island packet 349, j/boats j/45, najad 395 cc, outbound 56.

Looking to sail the open seas? Bluewater sailboats are your answer. With their sturdy construction and ability to handle rough conditions, these boats are designed for serious offshore sailing adventures. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the world of blue water sailboats and provide you with everything you need to know. From their unique features to their advantages and considerations, we will explore it all.

Bluewater sailboats are known for their strength and durability. Built to withstand the challenging conditions of ocean crossings, these boats offer stability and safety on long voyages. Whether you’re planning a solo trip or setting off with a crew, a blue water sailboat is an excellent option to explore the depths.

We will discuss the key characteristics that make blue water sailboats stand out, such as their hull design, rigging, and navigation systems. Additionally, we’ll explore the various types and sizes available to help you find the perfect fit for your sailing aspirations.

So, if you’ve ever dreamed of embarking on a thrilling ocean adventure, join us as we navigate the world of bluewater sailboats and uncover everything you need to know.

Bluewater sailboats are designed to withstand the demanding conditions encountered during long ocean voyages. They possess several key characteristics that set them apart from other types of sailboats. 

1. Sturdy Construction

Bluewater sailboats are built with robust materials and construction techniques to ensure their strength and durability. They feature reinforced hulls made of fiberglass, aluminum, or steel, which can withstand the impact of large waves and adverse weather conditions. These boats are designed to handle the constant stresses of offshore sailing without compromising their structural integrity.

2. Seaworthiness

One of the defining characteristics of bluewater sailboats is their seaworthiness. They are designed to handle rough seas and strong winds, providing a stable and comfortable ride even in challenging conditions. The shape of their hulls, with a deep V or modified full-keel design, allows them to cut through waves and maintain stability, minimizing the rolling motion commonly experienced on other types of sailboats.

3. Self-Sustainability

Bluewater sailboats are equipped with systems that enable self-sustainability during long voyages. They typically have large water and fuel tanks, allowing sailors to carry ample supplies for extended periods at sea. In addition, these boats often come equipped with renewable energy sources such as solar panels or wind turbines, reducing the reliance on external power sources.

Bluewater sailboats offer numerous advantages for sailors looking to embark on offshore adventures. Here are some of the key benefits of choosing a blue water sailboat for your next sailing journey.

1. Safety and Stability

When sailing across vast oceans, safety is paramount. Bluewater sailboats provide a high level of safety and stability, thanks to their sturdy construction and seaworthiness. These boats are designed to handle adverse weather conditions and rough seas, ensuring the safety of the crew and the vessel. The robust hulls and well-balanced designs make them less prone to capsizing or taking on water, providing peace of mind during long voyages.

2. Long-Distance Capability

Bluewater sailboats are specifically designed for long-distance sailing. They have the capacity to carry ample supplies, including food, water, and fuel, allowing sailors to embark on extended journeys without the need for frequent resupply stops. With their self-sustainability features and efficient hull designs, these boats can cover long distances efficiently and comfortably.

3. Comfort and Liveability

Living aboard a bluewater sailboat for an extended period requires comfort and practicality. These boats are designed with spacious interiors, allowing for comfortable living quarters during long voyages. They often feature multiple cabins, a well-equipped galley, and ample storage space for provisions and personal belongings. The layout and design of blue water sailboats prioritize functionality and convenience, ensuring a comfortable living experience even in the middle of the ocean.

And now… it’s time to discover together our selection of 18 Bluewater sailboats we love!

The Allures 51.9 innovates with its full-beam aft owner’s cabin. This model disrupts the codes of the yard also outside with its cockpit of 6 meters long with sunbath and swim platform for comfort; the navigation space can be protected by a hardtop to navigate in any security. The boat has a length of 51.9 feet (15.8 meters) and a beam (width) of 15.4 feet (4.7 meters). It is equipped with a fixed keel and a composite hull, which provides good stability and seaworthiness. The Allures 51.9 is available in a variety of configurations, including a three-cabin layout with a spacious owner’s cabin and two guest cabins, or a two-cabin layout with a larger owner’s cabin and a smaller guest cabin. It is also equipped with a well-equipped galley, a large saloon, and a navigation station.  Allures official website .

In a dynamic evolution and complementary to their range,  Amel  launched a larger model, with a higher specification and built with attention to details. Riding on the success of the  Amel 50 , the Amel 60 is an enhanced version of the new Amel design . The brand’s fundamental characteristics are well represented in this large yacht, with an additional 10 feet increasing her volume as well as her interior and exterior living spaces, while still ensuring ease of use for a small crew. 

Signed Berret-Racoupeau, the generous volumes of this large yacht have been designed to allow owners and their guests to fully enjoy life on board, while preserving everyone’s privacy: a large living space in the saloon, an ultra-equipped high-end galley three cabins each with a bathroom, an even larger protected cockpit, opening onto sunbathing areas ideal for relaxation.

The  Dutch specialist  in semi-custom constructions Contest Yachts presented the brand new 17-metre Contest 55CS at Boot Dusseldorf 2020. Don’t call it “simply” a  bluewater  yacht. The stunning lines both above and below water from star designers Judel/Vrolijk shall ensure a real sporty character. A newly conceived interior styling now features an even bigger flowing corner radius to the exquisitely finished timber work. There are also now more optional hull windows in up to four stations along the yacht’s length.

Discovery Yachts  presented the new Revelation 480 at  Boot Dusseldorf 2020 . This is the first model of the new Revelation line and differs from the Southerly line for the fixed keel and the lowered saloon. Yes, the Revelation 480 is a lowered saloon boat based on the well-known Southerly 480. The Revelation 480 combines bluewater capability with a low, sleek coachroof that contributes to an interesting aesthetic. Down below, the single level interior is extremely light and exquisitely furnished.

The Grand Soleil 42 LC is  Cantiere del Pardo ’s latest entry model of the bluewater line. Comfort and sailing autonomy are the main features of this 12-meter, designed by Marco Lostuzzi together with Nauta Design and Cantiere del Pardo’s Technical Office.

The 42 LC is available in two versions; standard or sport. The former is equipped with aft benches, and a carbon arch over the cockpit, designed to keep this area free of the mainsheet traveller. The GS 42 LC’s hull guarantees great stability thanks to greater hull volume. The well-proportioned sail plan optimizes the high-performance sailing standards. As with the rest of the Long Cruise range, the Grand Soleil 42 LC is designed to provide greater and more luxurious comfort on board.

The interior layout is available with either two or three cabins, to meet the client’s needs. Both versions include two heads with a shower. In the saloon, a three-seater sofa is found on the starboard side, while the central seat can be transformed into a chart table.

The Hallberg-Rassy 48 MK II is a true bluewater cruiser that offers more natural light, more comfort and more elegance than ever before. With three double cabins and a vast saloon, she offers great space for modern comfort aids. Known far and wide for sturdy construction, superb craftsmanship and signature seaworthiness, Hallberg-Rassy boats are globally respected for their elegant lines and spirited performance.

Hylas Yachts has collaborated with German Frers for over 40 years and built a reputation for yachts that combine ocean sailing capability, classic lines and exquisitely finished interiors.  Now the company is staking out new territory with the H60. Still ocean capable, still with an exquisite interior but also embracing some of the contemporary demands of today’s cruising sailors. 

Longtime Hylas fans will not be disappointed by her performance. Built using the most advanced construction technologies, the H60 has been designed to excel in all conditions with excellent seakeeping ability. A plumb bow and broad transom make the most of her waterline length underway, providing speed with optimal comfort.

The builder partnered with Milan-based firm  Hot Lab , known for their elegant designs in the superyacht world, to offer interiors that immediately set the new Hylas on a new level.

The project of the ICE 70 by  ICE Yachts  has been realized using the most advanced modeling and analysis software available today. “ Thanks to the new virtual reality ‘tools’ ,” explains  Felci Yacht Design , “ we have been able to make the owner and the shipyard participant of many geometric and stylistic choices. It is a yacht with high technological potential, starting from the design of the hull and the appendices “. With this sporty bluewater sailboat, the Italian yard wanted to create a technologically avant-garde boat with large, comfortable indoor and outdoor spaces, which is easy to sail and entirely safe at sea. Like all ICE Yachts models, the ICE 70 is a semi-custom product with which the owner has many possibilities for customization and equipment. ICE Yachts official website

With this model, iconic Island Packet has returned to the Solent-style rig as standard, featuring a mainsail with a working jib and an optional lightweight 170% reacher or asymmetrical that mounts on the integral bow platform and furled with Harken systems. The working jib is fitted with a Hoyt Boom that is self-tending and improves performance with its close sheeting and self-vanging feature, while the large optional reacher or asymmetrical boost performance in light air or when off the wind.

The fully battened mainsail is equipped with a low friction Battcar system and drops easily into a stack pack with an integral cover and lazy jack system.  This rigging offers ease of use and versatility in the varied wind or sea conditions and increased speed and maneuverability.

The J/Boats J/45, is a true  bluewater sailing yacht, designed and built for the sea by life-long sailors. The  J/Boats  and  J/Composites teams have collaborated to create a special design for discerning sailors seeking an exceptional sailing experience. The J/45 can be sailed solo, cruised by 2-3 couples or large family, and pleasure sailed or raced with room for the whole crew. This is an investment-grade sailboat that won’t require a professional crew to sail, handle or maintain. J/Boats official website

The Kraken 50 is designed to be the short-handed bluewater cruising yacht. Due to her steady motion and stability, her crew will be equally comfortable at sea or in the anchorage, and special consideration has been given in the K50 layouts above and below deck to allow for short-handed ocean passage making. The Kraken 50 features the renowned integral  Zero Keel  and fully skegged rudder.

N395 CC (centre cockpit) is part of the all-new Najad 395 range, designed in a joint venture by Najad, Farr Yacht Design, and Ken Freivokh Design – superyacht stylist, architects, and interior designers. The N395 CC is characterized by a well-protected large cockpit located close to the center of gravity. It has a well-designed interior and a very comprehensive options list that includes all equipment necessary to tailor the yacht to any individual needs. This model is available in two or three cabin layouts with one or two large heads.

Welcome aboard the newest addition to Outbound’s impressive line of offshore passage makers. The new Outbound 56, built from German Frers timeless and proven design continues to fulfill our single mission of building great offshore yachts.  Fast, accommodating and gorgeous, the 56 will take you anywhere your heart desires in style and comfort.

The entry level yacht for the ‘G6’ range of seven models up to the Flagship Oyster 118.  Using the latest generation of Oyster hull shapes, developed with Humphreys Yacht Design, the Oyster 565 is designed for family sailing without professional crew.

A generous sail locker and lazarette, headroom and bunk lengths to match the larger Oyster Superyachts, the 565 can be configured with many different cabin layouts – and for the first time in Oyster Yachts – can have the master cabin forward and a dinghy garage in the transom.

The Brittany based yard is well known not only among ocean sailors but also to those who love short-handed sailing and are looking for seaworthy and easily driven bluewater sailboats, both safe and comfortable. This last aspect is where Fora Marine has made great progress in the last few years, shedding some of the spartan image that characterized their products for many years.

What has not changed, and what is still the RM range’s defining characteristic, is the twin-chined hull, made of Okumé plywood impregnated with epoxy resin (the deck is in fiberglass sandwich). Below the hull, the yard offers two options, a single deep keel or double shoal draft keels. The RM are designed by Marc Lombard, probably one of the architects most able to transform the fashionable chine into an important element in cruising design. A chined hull, when properly drawn, gives both better hull shape and interior volumes. ( Read our test )

The Rustler 42 is a classic looking yacht which combines style that is traditional yet modern. Her cruising layout results in a live aboard yacht that has stability and elegance with the same unique sea-kindly characteristics as the Rustler 36. Below the waterline, she looks conservative with a deep canoe body, long fin keel and a big skeg hung rudder.

Below the decks, this yacht has a spacious open plan saloon. The large, finished saloon table can comfortably seat eight. The aft cabin has standing headroom, a full-width double berth and plenty of storage within lockers and a vanity unit with seat. The aft head incorporates a shower unit and a ‘wet lilies’ locker. At the forepeak the grand master cabin has a 6 ft 6 in double V berth.

Signed by  German Frers , the Swan 58 needs to combine the spaces of bluewater sailboats with a fast cruiser performances. Key details include a deck featuring soft and rounded shapes, a new cockpit design, a redefined coach-roof style and large swimming platform. The concept is easy: to give the maximum comfort and liveability at rest, together with maximum efficiency for short handed sailing, without losing the capability to race with a full crew. 

The interiors of the new Swan 58 , which is fitted with European oak, have been conceived as a combination between luxury and comfortable living spaces, storage and volumes for systems and safety features; we find here a large saloon, a galley with a 360 degree layout and three heads. Various interior styling layouts are available varying woods and materials. 

Designed by Tartan naval architect Tim Jackett, the 395 comes out of the Tartan factory in Fairport Harbor and is the perfect example of bluewater sailboats. Her hull shape is an evolution of tried and true concepts proven to deliver great stability and high interior volume while maintaining comforting manners throughout a wide range of sailing conditions. On deck Tartan 395 sports hallmark Tartan design elements such as a traditional cabin house fitted with functional polished stainless steel rectangular portholes.

Like her smaller sister 345, 395’s handcrafted interior is built in maple as standard, with cherry a no-charge option. The lighter maple opens up her interior in ways the darker cherry simply cannot.

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Choosing a Blue Water Yacht – Hull Construction

Posted Monday 27th July 2015

Over the last few weeks,  Grabau International has taken you through a variety of subjects which encompass choosing the right yacht for blue water adventures. This guide is not written to dictate what to choose, or to supply a comprehensive encyclopedia of every option and variable, but simply a basic explanation of the main options and some guidance on what to look out for. Finding a yacht will always be a battle of your head over your heart, so the purpose of this guide is to give your head some questions to ask in the hope that an amicable compromise can be made with your heart.  Part 5 of this guide looks at the question of hull construction .

Hull Construction

With the vast majority of production yachts constructed from GRP laminates, choosing a hull construction type is not usually something a buyer has to consider. However, for those looking to venture into high latitudes, those who have differing requirements in terms of maintenance or even for those lucky enough to be in a position where they can embark upon a project from the drawing board upwards, there are plenty of tried & tested alternatives to the ubiquitous glass fibre.

Italia Yachts 13.98 in construction

Universally adopted by production manufacturers and very much the ‘easy option’ thanks to simple re-use of a female mould allowing multiple identical hulls to be quickly and efficiently produced. Traditionally overbuilt, but with often with questionable material quality, GRP production is now seriously advanced with advanced vinylester or epoxy resins and lamination techniques such as vacuum infusion almost completely removing the risk of osmosis (which in itself is never as bad as tradition made out), dry spots or hull voids. Usually allied with some form of core material such as balsa or closed-cell foam, the structure is both strong in tension, but also stiff and well insulated against heat and noise. Solid laminate hulls are still quite common and are popular amongst those with the ‘keep it simple’ attitude, but even here, core materials are usually added in the deck and superstructure areas.

Traditional GRP hand laminate construction

Carbon/Composite

Very similar to GRP construction but using more advanced fibres such as Carbon or Kevlar to create extremely light, stiff and strong hull shapes. Carbon and Kevlar are usually combined as Carbon on its own has very little impact resistance, whereas Kevlar has plenty. Many GRP yachts are also reinforced with Kevlar in the bow section for this very reason (Kevlar is often referred to as Aramid or Twaron after its manufacturer’s name).

A composite weave of glass and Aramid (Kevlar) fibres

Extremely strong but quite heavy. Steel hulls are liable to rust unless well protected from water. Whilst it is relatively easy to monitor the paint system on the outside of the hull, it can be very difficult to see what is happening in the deepest, darkest recesses of the bilge, so most problems with steel hulls manifest themselves from the inside out. Steel is however cheap and very easy and low tech to work with, so for a rugged solution that can be maintained anywhere on the planet, steel certainly has a place.

Steel hull construction

One of the lightest materials for building large yachts, aluminium construction also enjoys a healthy market in smaller craft. For those wanting the security of a metal hull, aluminium will allow the closest match to a GRP hull in terms of weight, stiffness and feel. Traditionally the preserve of specialist manufacturing skills, aluminium welding and construction skills can now be found in most parts of the world, so it is fairly safe to assume that repairs can be made almost anywhere. The downsides are corrosion, both below the waterline and above where imperfections in the paint system can lead to rather unsightly blistering. Many manufacturers side-step this problem by simply not painting their hulls. Electrolysis is also an issue so it is important that the yacht is correctly wired and most well constructed yachts have a double poled system.  When exposed to oxygen in the air, aluminium will develop a very thin layer of oxidization which will then protect the material from further corrosion.

Allures 51 in construction with an alloy hull and a GRP superstructure (photo courtesy of Allures)

Traditional Wood

The original boat building material and in some eyes, still the best. Naturally buoyant, easy to work with and excellent at cutting out vibration and noise, wooden hulls can be an absolute delight. Rot is always a concern, but this can be mitigated by using woods containing natural preventative chemicals (such as teak, magohany and cedar).  Construction methods vary from traditional clinker construction found in smaller dinghies to the more common carvel construction found on larger yachts.

Traditional wooden boat building

Worthy of a separate section of conventional wooden construction, wood epoxy or cold-moulded construction allies wood (usually cedar or mahogany) to epoxy resins and fiberglass resulting in a hull with very few downsides yet with all the benefits of GRP and wood rolled into one. As each hull is in effect a one-off rather than simply laminated in a female mould, wood epoxy contraction is more unusual in the production market (although the French builder RM Yachts and English build Spirit Yachts are two notable exceptions).

A classic Dargon one design in cold moulded (wood epoxy) construction (photo courtesy of Petticrows)

Further considerations.

Hull Colour

Not a construction material, but a process which can have a profound effect on both the aesthetic of your yacht and in some cases the construction material beneath. Very simply put, dark coloured hulls can get hot. A stunning flag blue hull will heat up more in the Caribbean sun than a white hull. This could potentially cause a number of problems for a GRP hull such as post-cure shrinkage of the gelcoat or even delamination, but fortunately these problems are extremely rare and not a reason to avoid dark coloured hulls if you have a hankering for them. The biggest issue with a coloured hull is keeping it looking good. Colours will fade over time and whilst polishing them will bring them back, ultimately, there is only so much polishing you can do before it is time to repaint the hull. If you are happy with this limitation, then there are few things in life as pretty as dark blue yacht, and the manufacturers love dark colours as they create the useful visual illusion of slimming the topsides. Another more modern option is to apply a vinyl wrap to the original topsides. This allows total fleixbility over colour and design and can be removed at any time. The vinyl wrap can also do a good job of preserving the gelcoat or paint finish beneath.

The faded blue topsides of a motor yacht receiving a new lease of life via a blue vinyl wrap (photo courtesy of MBY)

In many instances there will be little choice as to whether the yacht has teak laid decks or not. High-end Scandinavian or British built yachts will almost always have circa 12mm of teak glued and/or screwed to the sub-deck. Teak has its advantages in terms of aesthetic, grip when wet, and insulation against heat and noise. On the downside, teak is expensive to source sustainably and very labour intensive to restore properly. An 8-12mm teak deck should have decades of serviceable life if looked after and not aggressively scrubbed. Even when the caulking is failing and screw fastenings are showing through, there should generally be enough teak left to re-caulk and refasten the deck. This is in effect, a mid-life refit for the deck. The key with a teak deck is to keep it watertight. Missing caulking or exposed screw fastenings can allow water to penetrate through to the sub-deck which can then cause problems within the deck core. Keeping a small tool kit with caulking and fastening materials aboard the yacht will allow continual maintenance to be carried out and the hopeful avoidance of a big bill – or at least will enable you to put off the evil day.

Teak decking on a modern Italia Yacht

Synthetic decks

Increasingly common on cruising yachts where an alternative to teak is desired, a synthetic ‘fake’ teak deck can provide the much of the look and insulation properties of teak without the cost, maintenance and wear implications.  Manufacturers such as Amel and Allures, have made such deck finishes a trademark and there are many products in the market which can be fitted in place of teak very easily.  The finishes available are improving all the time.

Modern synthetic teak decking

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Yachting Monthly

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Monohull or multihull: which is best for blue water?

• Chris Beeson
• March 29, 2016

As former editor of Yachting World, David Glenn has plenty of experience of both monohull and multihull cruising. Here he weighs up the pros and cons

One hull, or two? Your choice will define your life afloat Credit: David Glenn

Through the binoculars I could see masts off Basil’s Bar on Mustique. Their lack of movement suggested a fine anchorage, sheltered from the tradewind-driven swell that builds up in the channel between Mustique and Bequia. It soon became apparent that most belonged to cats, immune from the rolling monohulls like ours would endure if we were to stop in this otherwise enticing bay.

More anchorages in a multi

Cats galore off the Soggy Dollar Bar, Jost van Dyke: too shallow for a fixed keel monohull of similar size

Stability is one of the truly great advantages of a cruising multihull. Not just at sea where the tiresome business of heeling is something that simply doesn’t – or shouldn’t – happen to any great extent, but at anchor too. It dramatically widens one’s choice of anchorages to include those affected by swell – not uncommon in the Caribbean, for instance, where a subtle change in wind direction can make a previously flat calm anchorage unbearable in a monohull. Its comparatively shoal draught widens the choice still further.

I grew up with monohulls, own one, and frankly wouldn’t consider a multihull for the sort of sailing I do. In northern European waters, marina berthing is a regular necessity and completely safe open anchorages are few and far between.

No rolling or heeling, 360° views and one-level living, as here on a Lagoon 52, appeal to many

But if I were to undertake some serious blue water cruising and I wanted family and friends genuinely to enjoy being afloat, particularly those less experienced, a multihull would have to be a consideration. I would have to put aside the question of aesthetics – let’s face it, they’re ugly beasts – and forego that unique and satisfying sensation of a yacht sailing well, because to date I have not experienced it in a cruising multihull. And that’s quite a sacrifice.

More space in a multi

My attitude changed after chartering catamarans in the Caribbean and Mediterranean. The need to accommodate two families comprising largely of teenage children made the choice of a multihull a no-brainer. In a 46-footer we could accommodate a party of 10 in comfort and the paraphernalia demanded by youth, like surfboards, windsurfers, kites and snorkelling kit, without feeling jammed in.

One-level living makes a big difference when sailing as a famly

The cavernous berths in the ends of the hulls, the wide saloon-cum-galley with its panoramic view and the inside/outside lifestyle made possible by the juxtaposition of the big aft deck and the same level saloon, got the entire crew onside instantly.

As an outside living space, with a trampoline at one end and a massive aft deck at the other, there is simply no comparison with a monohull of the same length. So space, linked to stability, makes for an experience that everyone, even the timid and novices, will find hard not to enjoy.

No speed difference

A multihull, like this Moorings 46, has abundant stowage on deck and below, but filling it all will slow her down

Load-carrying ability is a double-edged sword. On the up side there is room for a big crew and its kit, much more fresh water tankage than a monohull, eliminating the need for an expensive, temperamental watermaker, and finding space for a generator should be easy.

On the down side the temptation to overload will probably cancel out any perceived performance advantage. Multihulls can be relatively quick in the right offwind conditions, but if they are heavily laden – as they will be for blue water cruising – there really is no significant speed advantage.

The Gunboat 66 Phaedo 1 piles on the speed, but for blue water cruisers, comfort and stowage is more important than pace

Some new designs such as Gunboat and Outremer have concentrated on performance, but most clients aren’t overly concerned about outright speed and are happy to trade performance for the considerable comfort offered by brands like Lagoon, Broadblue, the Fontaine Pajot stable, Leopard, Catana, Privilege and others.

Mono sails better

Monohulls, like this Amel 55, sail better upwind, and her ballast keel adds displacement, which means comfort when it’s rough. Multihulls can develop an unpleasant motion in a big sea

Upwind, most cruising multihulls won’t point like a monohull with a deeper keel, and when it gets lumpy and fresh, the motion can become distinctly unpleasant. You have to keep a particularly careful eye on sail area too, but more of that in a moment.

In 2011 I was involved in a test of three cruising catamarans and among my fellow judges was multihull design legend Nigel Irens. He pointed out that catamaran buyers have voted for accommodation (which means weight) over performance, so the dilemma of mixing the two has largely disappeared. With it went the spectre of capsize because, relative to their displacement and beam, the modern cruising catamaran is under-canvassed. But that doesn’t mean that sailors can simply set sail and go in any weather.

‘Speed limits’ on a multi

On a multihull, it’s more important to know when to reef. Set speed limits and stick to them

Also on the panel was Brian Thompson, the lone Brit on board the 130ft French trimaran Banque Populaire V that sailed around the world in under 46 days. He told me that the tell-tale signs for knowing when to reef are far more subtle on a multihull. Apart from instinct, Brian suggested monitoring boat speed closely and having a speed limit to trigger reefing. It is easy to overlook a building breeze when bowling along downwind in a multihull, which is going faster and faster. ‘Keep your boat speed within safe limits you should not get into too much trouble,’ he said.

People often ask about anchoring a multihull, which is important as a multihull will spend a lot of time at anchor. Squeezing into a marina can be nigh on impossible, and expensive if you can get in. An essential piece of kit, which should be standard with a new boat, is a bridle that runs from either hull and keeps the anchor cable on the centreline. In many ways this is easier than anchoring a monohull as it prevents the ground tackle from fouling the hulls.

If you do get alongside a marina pontoon you will soon discover another modern cruising multihull issue: excessive freeboard. It’s worth investing in a portable ladder for those marina moments. Of more concern is MOB recovery. There are bathing platforms on both hulls of most new boats, but it’s not the place to be if a yacht is pitching in a heavy sea. So considerable thought needs to be applied to retrieving an MOB if the worst happens.

The recent and dramatic increase in numbers of multihulls going blue water cruising is certainly testament to their appealing ‘lifestyle’ attributes, but one must bear in mind that they are not a fix for all liveaboard cruising challenges. It’s just a different way of doing things. The elements remain the same and can inflict just as much punishment for the unwary on a multihull as they can on a monohull.

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Best Blue Water Sailboats Under 40 Feet

19th jan 2023 by samantha wilson.

What is a blue water sailboat?

What to look for when choosing a cruising sailboat under 40 feet, what are the advantages of small blue water sailboats, what are the disadvantages of small sailboats.

• Best blue water sailboat models under 40 Feet

The term blue water sailboat doesn’t refer to a specific style of boat in the same way that a ketch or schooner does. In fact, a blue water sailboat could be either of those and many more. But when we talk about blue water sailboats, they have shared characteristics that make them suitable for, you guessed it, blue water sailing. Making long, open sea voyages such as crossing the oceans requires a boat that is solidly-built and can tackle heavy seas and inclement weather conditions. Blue water sailboats are able to be self-sufficient and lived on for extended periods of time, and to offer safety and comfort.

In a previous guide we looked at the different types of sailboats , focusing on identifying them by their hull type, rigging and uses. In general, smaller blue water sailboats under 40 feet tend to be cutters , sloops or ketches . Catamarans and trimarans too are becoming increasingly popular as long cruising vessels, although these tend to be larger than 40 feet. In fact, while there are manufacturers producing some excellent, sturdy and compact blue water sailboats under 40 feet, they tend to be a minority and most ‘small’ sailboats designed for long-range cruising are usually above 50 feet. 

So what other characteristics should you be looking for in a small ocean sailboat? 

Construction:

The material of the hull is probably the most crucial aspect, as it needs to be solidly built and able to withstand harsh seas as well as any collisions with floating objects. Hulls made from steel, strong fiberglass or carbon fiber tend to be the most popular. With a brand new sailboat you can be assured of a sound hull, however when buying a used sailboat under 40 feet the most important aspect is to ensure that the hull is strong and durable. 

The type of keel also makes a big difference, as deep V hulls with an encapsulated keel will make your boat less likely to capsize or lose its keel. Keel sailboats under 40 feet with skeg-hung rudders are considered the best small sailboats for open ocean cruising. While in the past it tended to only be monohull boats which were used for blue water sailing, there are now several manufacturers offering catamarans and trimarans which are strong enough to cross oceans. 

While the rig itself doesn’t necessarily denote whether a sailboat is more blue water worthy, it needs to be able to be manned by the number of crew on board as well as less crew if anyone is injured. The most important aspect is to think of the manageability of the rig. 

Ocean-going sailboats tend to have small cockpits to keep water out. While traditionally they used to have an aft cockpit there are more center cockpit blue water sailboats around these days. They need to have good drainage as well as offering the helmsman easy reach of the headsail, staysail and mainsail sheets.

Self-steering:

Whether you’re sailing solo or with a small crew, having the ability to set an auto-pilot is an important characteristic of a blue water boat. From tiredness to accidents or illness, there might come a time when you need to set the autopilot when under power or windvane when under sail. 

A compact cabin, galley and head with plenty of handholds and safe storage are vital to spending long stretches of time at sea. There needs to be enough space to ensure you are able to be self-sufficient for long periods of time. This includes everything from provisions to safety equipment , power systems, water makers, fuel storage and two anchors. 

Ability to heave-to:

The act of heaving-to involves pointing the bow into the wind and fixing the helm and sail positions. This essentially stops the boat in the water and is a hugely important maneuver during storms to prevent capsizing and allows the crew to take shelter inside. Some sailboats are more able to perform this than others. 

Having a way to communicate an emergency is vital, and your blue water sailboat should have a satellite phone and radio installed. A radio will allow you to connect with passing vessels, while the satellite phone is your only means of true contact with land. On deck, safety is paramount, and additions such as granny bars by the mast, safety rails and of course a harness mean you’ll be staying on board in lively conditions. 

Ability to Store or Make Water:

Water water everywhere and not a drop to drink is not a phrase any sailor wants to utter. So it’s imperative that your sailboat has enough storage capacity for long voyages, as well as the ability to make fresh water for drinking and washing in. Consider that two people on a three week voyage will require around 50 gallons of fresh water (allowing for a 20% contingency). Space – and weight considerations - is always a premium on small sailboats, so you need to make sure there are enough water tanks. You’ll also want a water maker which are powered by motors and generators. AC water makers can produce around 20 gallons a day, while DC water makers which use a lot less power, produce around 12 gallons of water a day.

Good Navigation Systems:

Ok, we’re going to say how important navigation systems are on your boat, and that’s true, but in fact you don’t want to reply on electronic navigation systems alone if you’re out in the middle of the deep blue. Having paper charts on board (in digital format preferably to save on space in a small boat) and knowing how to navigate using them is imperative. 

There are thousands of models of liveaboard sailboats under 40 feet on the market, but certainly not all of them are suitable for crossing oceans. We’ve seen the general characteristics of what to look for when choosing a blue water sailboat, but what are the pros and cons of a smaller boat versus a larger model?

Affordability:

Smaller tends to mean cheaper and so affordability is a major factor when buying a blue water sailboat . Whether you’re in the market for a new or used blue water sailboat under 40 feet, there are some excellent deals to be found. It means that long-held dream of sailing across the world can happen now, rather than saving for years. The other bonus is that smaller, simpler pocket cruisers will be cheaper and easier to maintain. 

Easier to Sail:

The simpler the rig and the less systems on board the easier the boat will be to sail (and to care for). You’ll need a smaller crew meaning cruising boats under 40 feet tend to be popular with couples and solo sailors. 

Less Spacious:

It goes without saying that smaller boats have less space. While manufacturers are finding ever-more ingenious ways to equip small sailboats with everything their larger counterparts have – and there are some clever ways you can maximize storage space in a boat – realistically space will be at a premium, meaning the number of crew and the amount of comforts you can have on board will need to be minimal.

They Tend to be Slower:

As a general rule, the smaller the sailboat, the slower it will be. While this isn’t always a bad thing if you’re in no hurry to get anywhere, it’s worth considering that out-running bad weather can be trickier in a small boat. 

Less comfortable:

A smaller boat can make for a less comfortable ride, especially in bigger seas. 

Best blue water sailboat models under 40 Feet

If you’re in the market for a cruising sailboat under 40 feet the options can seem dizzying. With so many to choose from it’s hard to know where to start. There are thousands of excellent used boats on the market, with reputations for reliability, safety, comfort and build. Here however we’re going to take a look at some of the manufacturers making the best bluewater sailboats in 2023 . With a solid reputation and excellent craftsmanship, they make a good place to start your search. 

Beneteau’s Oceanis 40, Oceanis 38.1 and Oceanis 34.1.

Beneteau’s reputation shines through in this smaller range of ocean-going yachts. At the top end of the under-40 foot range is the Oceanis 40 , with a hull designed by Marc Lombard and a huge amount of deck and interior space for its size. The Oceanis 38.1 offers surprising comfort and speed, with the ability to be sailed with a small crew, while the smallest in the range is the Oceanis 34.1 pocket cruiser, with cleverly designed spaces and a modern hull design. 

Beneteau sailboats for sale

Photo credit: Beneteau

Jeanneau’s Sun Odyssey 349 and Sun Odyssey 380:

For over 60 years Jeanneau has been crafting motor and sailboats which push the boundaries and the Sun Odyssey range is the perfect example of that. The Sun Odyssey 349 and Sun Odyssey 380 are the smallest in the range, offering high performance sailing you would expect of a much larger model. With an iconic inverted bow, huge interior spaces and fine-tuned handling, they are popular models for long distance cruising. 

Jeanneau sailboats for sale

Photo credit: Jeanneau 

Hallberg-Rassy 340, 372, 40 and 40C:

The range of Swedish-built Hallberg-Rassy small blue water yachts is one of the most impressive of any manufacturer. Boasting four yachts under 40 feet, they put their nine decades of expertise into both center cockpit and aft cockpit ocean-going cruisers and have the awards to show for it. From the Hallberg-Rassy 340 , which manages to pack everything you could need in a long-range cruiser into an ultra-compact package, to the award-winning 372 which manages to be even faster than the already fast Hallberg-Rassy 40 . They offer incredible handling, expansive oak interiors, generous cockpits and modern rigs.  

Hallberg-Rassy sailboats for sale

Photo credit: Hallberg-Rassy

SeaWind Catamarans’ 1160, 1190 and 1260:

It’s uncommon to find blue water catamarans under 40 feet, but SeaWind has crafted no less than three compact, sturdy cats that can cross oceans in safety and comfort. With huge interior spaces across its double beam, you get much more living space than you would in a monohull of the same size, as well as robust seaworthiness, great sailability and all at an attractive price. 

Seawind sailboats for sale

Photo credit: SeaWind  

Written By: Samantha Wilson

Samantha Wilson has spent her entire life on and around boats, from tiny sailing dinghies all the way up to superyachts. She writes for many boating and yachting publications, top charter agencies, and some of the largest travel businesses in the industry, combining her knowledge and passion of boating, travel and writing to create topical, useful and engaging content.

More from: Samantha Wilson

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Best Bluewater Pocket Sailboats

Last Updated by

Jacob Collier

December 28, 2023

Looking for a pocket sailboat that can also give you the experience of liveaboard sailing? The best bluewater pocket sailboat is what you need.

Bluewater Pocket sailboats are affordable small yachts that are trailerable to your choice of destination but have the amenities of a full-size sailboat, all without breaking your bank. Unlike other small boats, they are capable of offshore voyages.

The best bluewater pocket sailboats include the Andrews 28, Ranger 26, Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20, Pacific Seacraft Allegra 24, Pearson 35, and the Catalina 275 Sport. There are several others you can find on the market. But these are the top bluewater pocket sailboats.

Many sailing enthusiasts prefer pocket sailboats instead of larger ones. One of the reasons for this is that you can enjoy the experience of sailing offshore while not breaking the bank and spending less on maintenance as well. Pocket sailboats are generally heavy to maintain stability in rough waters but roomy enough that you can spend a few days along with your friends and family.

We are a bunch of sailing enthusiasts spending most of our weekends trailing our pocket sailboats traveling to various offshore destinations. With this knowledge and experience, we have drafted a list of the best bluewater pocket sailboats and discussed them in detail, so you can make an informed decision before buying your pocket sailboat.

Table of contents

‍ Our Top Picks

{{boat-info="/boats/andrews-28"}}

If you want a complete package of a sailboat, you should look no further than the Andrews 28. It is the one-stop solution for a comfortable, fast, roomy, easy to sail, and easy to trail pocket sailboat.

This sailboat is designed by renowned designer Alan Andrews, famous for designing speedy sailboats without compromising comfort and reliability.

Despite being only 28 feet long, the below-deck space is open and airy and has six berths. A galley, head, and navigation area with super spacious built will make you feel like on a full-sized sailboat.

The hull and deck construction is a robust yet luxurious one with fiberglass, closed-cell PVC core, and high-density foam. These materials ensure there is no chance of water absorption, and your ride remains reliable. The keel is made from stainless steel and fiberglass shell to keep it from rusting for a long period.

Moreover, the keel is retractable, so it is quite easy to haul the sailboat for trailering. Thanks to the carbon pole, Andrews 28 gives a breezy and light air performance that makes the boat's handling easy.

Maneuvering Andrews 28 is enjoyable and requires less work when faced with eight knots of winds.

The best thing about Andrews 28 is that it is one of the newer generations of sailboats, so the accommodations are more comfortable than most older ones.

A 5' 10" headroom in the cabin, leather-padded seats, stove, a counter and sink in the galley, and more features ensure a comfortable sailing experience.

You can get the Andrews 28 from  Sylvana Yachts .

Specifications

• Hull Type: Lifting keel
• LOA: 28 ft.
• LWL: 25.75 ft.
• Beam: 9.82 ft.
• Displacement: 3,750 lbs.
• Ballast: 1,290 lbs.
• Sail Area: 412.31 sq. ft.
• Fuel: 18 gallons
• Fresh Water 20 gallons
• Engine: Yanmar
• First built: 2007
• Last built: 2010
• Developer: Sylvana Yachts (CAN)
• Designer: Alan Andrews

{{boat-info="/boats/ranger-26"}}

Regarded well for safety and comfortable sailing experience, Ranger 26 is the perfect design satisfying the expectations from the short-lived yet highly prosperous designer, Gary Mull. Ranger 26 is a sporty boat that won the  1970 IOR North American Half-Ton Cup .

Overall, Ranger 26 has a fine profile with all the aspects you can expect from a pocket sailboat and then some.

Ranger 26's comfort level is unmatched. Although designed in 1969, it depicts the modern design of sailboats. A hand-laid hull and a balsa-cored deck add a touch of luxury to the boat. However, good looks and speed are not the only attributes this sailboat offers.

A seven-foot long deck offers ample space for a couple of companions. A sufficient cabin height and freeboard give a good under-deck experience.

Storage space is another benefit of the 26-footer sailboat. The lack of quarter births provides extra storage space under the cabin seats. However, the well-balanced construction between the above and under the deck has left little standing headroom of about five feet.

Going forward, the side decks narrow to only 12-inch wide, so it's important to keep wary of your footing. If you go for this fast and comfortable boat, ensure to check the iron keel and its bolts, which are prone to rust.

You can buy the Ranger 26 from  Ranger26.com .

• Hull Type: Fin w/spade rudder
• LOA: 26.25 ft.
• LWL: 21.75 ft.
• Beam: 8.67 ft.
• Displacement: 5.860 lbs.
• Ballast: 2,050 lbs.
• Sail Area: 321.75 sq. ft.
• First built: 1969
• Last built: 1975
• Developer: Ranger Yachts
• Designer: Gary Mull

Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20

{{boat-info="/boats/pacific-seacraft-flicka-20"}}

Pacific Seacraft Flicka is the most convenient and trailerable sailboat on our list, with an overall length of 20 feet. If you like a minimalist lifestyle and want the same in your bluewater pocket sailboat, this one's for you.

A functional galley with a sink and a counter and a small sink, toilet, and shower provides you with the basic amenities you and a couple of your friends and family need for a few days offshore.

There's more to the accommodation you can expect from this 20-footer sailboat. This boat has four berths, including a v-berth so sleeping comfortably or stretching your legs occasionally is not an issue. A pop-up dining table and a chart table within the cabin make eating and other activities doable.

Nevertheless, most people underestimate the Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20's ability to handle offshore rigidity, and they are often surprised at what this boat has to offer. A full-ballast keel, hull shape, manageable rig, and a self-draining cockpit ensure a fine offshore performance by the littlest contender.

Moreover, we find its outstanding standing headspace as one of the boat's best features. Unlike other pocket sailboats, the Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20 has a six ft. headspace. You don't have to duck every time to save your head banging against the roof.

The Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20's size and its minimalistic yet fulfilling features are why this boat's demand remains high. With only 400 of them ever made, you will have to dig deeper and longer to find one worth buying. Due to this, the price of this boat is also slightly higher.

You can buy the Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20 from  Yacht world  for $29,900.

• Hull Type: Long keel
• LOA: 24 ft.
• LWL: 18.75 ft.
• Beam: 8 ft.
• Displacement: 6,000 lbs.
• Ballast: 1,750 lbs.
• Sail Area: 261.89 sq. ft.
• Fuel: 12 gallons
• Fresh Water: 20 gallons
• First built: 1974
• Last built: 1994
• Developer: Pacific Seacraft
• Designer: Bruce Bingham

Pacific Seacraft Dana 24

{{boat-info="/boats/pacific-seacraft-dana-24"}}

Despite the minimalistic functionality, you might want a sailboat a notch larger than the Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20. If so, check out the Pacific Seacraft Dana 24. You can expect a similar design and capabilities from the same developers, with an additional four feet of space.

While such a small amount of extra space might feel very little, even an extra foot is a lot for a sailboat.

The extra four feet space allows more room on the cockpit, including an additional settee on the deck. It also adds to the galley space, making it more comfortable and easy to utilize. While the 24-footer adds space to the boat to make it roomy, it still boasts the qualities of one of the smaller sailboats we have on this list.

It is ideal for a pair, especially couples who do not look for much except spending quality days offshore with the basic amenities on hand.

Technically, the Pacific Seacraft Dana 24 leaves behind its close nemesis Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20. Despite being the larger one, Dana 24 is faster, catches up its hull speed quickly, and gives a fine performance in light winds.

A high bow flare and freeboard ensure the deck remains dry unless high tides take charge. Like all best bluewater pocket sailboats, this one also has a sufficient standing headroom of six feet one inch.

However, no one knows how many boats remain in existence because many of the Dana 24 were sold as kits and bare hulls. Due to this, you might also find slight differences in the build from boat to boat.

You can get the Pacific Seacraft Dana 24 from  Yacht World  for $49,000.

• LOA: 27.25 ft.
• LWL: 21.42 ft.
• Beam: 8.85 ft.
• Displacement: 8,000 lbs.
• Ballast: 3,200 lbs.
• Sail Area: 361.22 sq. ft.
• Fresh Water 40 gallons
• First built: 1948
• Last built: 2007
• Designer: W.I.B Crealock

O'Day 28

{{boat-info="/boats/oday-28"}}

The O'Day 28 is a popular sailboat, and you can find one easily as there are over 500 vessels of this super comfortable sailboat. Although produced for a short time between 1978 and 1986, O'Day 28 made its mark quite well as one of the best bluewater pocket sailboats.

Fortunately, O'Day is one of the larger sailboats on this list. So you are in luck if you want to buy a sailboat with ample room and amenities for less money.

Performance-wise, the O'Day 28 is as smooth as they come. It gives a smooth offshore sailing experience among the pocket sailboats thanks to its huge displacement of 7,300 lbs.

However, the larger displacement means you will need to slow down slightly to maneuver the ship comfortably. It could also use a heavier ballast since the factory-installed capacity is limited to 2,550. Although it is enough for a boat this size, there is little room for improvement.

On the bright side, smaller ballast means more room for the cabin and water and fuel capacities. Compared to boats of similar sizes, O'Day can hold 25 gallons of water and 18 gallons of fuel, aiding longer offshore voyages.

You can also install more tanks for extra water capacity in the storage spaces.

O'Day 28's cabin is as roomy as they come. Once you are in the cabin of this sailboat, it won't appear to you that you are inside of a pocket sailboat. This is mainly due to the wide beam of O'Day 28.

Besides that, the cabin is loaded with the basic needs to spend a few refreshing days off the shore. It has multiple berths, a large center table, padded settees, and an icebox — O'Day 28 has all.

Moving upwards, you will find a handful of similarities in the features of this boat and one of a larger boat. A few of them are a raked stern, helm, and a hidden rudder that keeps up the stands. However, O'Day 28 is a lot more than comfort and features.

A large modern-type fin keel keeps the boat stable around the anchor, and the firm beam keeps the boat cruising like the wind against 15 knots.

It will give you decent performance for up to 18-20 knots. Overall, the O'Day 28 is one of the finest pieces of craftsmanship you can find for a bluewater pocket sailboat.

You can get the O'Day 28 from  Yacht world  for $12,500.

• LOA: 28.25 ft.
• LWL: 22.92 ft.
• Beam: 10.25 ft.
• Displacement: 7,300 lbs.
• Ballast: 2,550 lbs.
• Sail Area: 370 sq. ft.
• Fresh Water: 25 gallons
• Engine: Universal
• First built: 1978
• Last built: 1986
• Developer: Bangor Punta Marine (USA)
• Designer: C. Raymond Hunt Associates

Easy handling, low cost of maintenance, minimalistic designs, basic amenities, all while going offshore — these are the main selling points of the pocket sailboats. All the boats mentioned above will serve you well if you are looking for the best bluewater pocket sailboats. Choose wisely!

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Born into a family of sailing enthusiasts, words like “ballast” and “jibing” were often a part of dinner conversations. These days Jacob sails a Hallberg-Rassy 44, having covered almost 6000 NM. While he’s made several voyages, his favorite one is the trip from California to Hawaii as it was his first fully independent voyage.

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BLUEWATER SAILING YACHTS QUALITY CRUISING SAILBOATS FROM THE WORLD’S TOP BUILDERS.

BLUEWATER CRUISING SAILBOATS FOR SALE

2019 Outbound 56

Specifying and building Outbound 56 BAREFOOT was a labour of love for her owners. They wanted to build the best quality and most practical cruising yacht that they could sail easily, as a couple, and that would carry them and their young children in safety and comfort, even to remote areas. The yacht is a very highly specified and much improved version of the well-known Hylas 56. Even after delivery the owner continued to improve and upgrade the yacht – including changing out the main engine. No cost has been spared to produce this wonderful yacht. With her hydraulic in-mast furling main, hydraulic furler to both of the headstays, electric furling gennaker, electric sheet winches - all controlled at the cockpit – she may be sailed single-handed (and has been). The interior provides a delightful aft “stateroom”, a double cabin forward and a versatile third cabin that may be used as a single or double and serves as a stowage area and workbench.

1988 Sparkman & Stephens Custom 50

The Stephen Custom 50 was conceived by the renowned yacht designers Sparkman & Stephens who have designed and built some of the worlds leading cruising and racing sailboats. They did not miss the mark with this 1988 classy cruiser. This stable yacht is designed and optimized for long term cruising and is a true blue-water sailboat. A solid glass hull and full skeg make Brizo a smooth ride even in rough seaways and give assurance. Built at the Queen Long yard in Taiwan, a precursor to the fabled Hylas yachts, her build quality is unquestioned. The quality craftsmanship and fine joinery is apparent throughout the interior of this well-conceived design. A deck saloon and a three-cabin layout make this yacht perfect for cruising couples or families. If you are seeking a boat that can carry you far and wide with speed, safety, and comfort, Brizo is a must see.

2006 Oyster 56

Renown as one of the world leading sailboat builders, Oyster is the epitome which other boats strive to measure themselves against. Ambrosia a great example of quality, function and form. These deck saloon boats boast bright comfortable interiors, practical sail handling from the helm and rigid construction. A perfect family boat or couples cruiser this boat is optimized for long term cruising in comfort and style.

2014 Bestevaer 66 Custom

A very unique yacht that is ready to sail the world for new adventures. Anabel is a very seaworthy yacht that has been built for unlimited cruising and a unique design which is totally “Custom built”. Only one owner from new. Built in the prestigious KM shipyard in Holland and designed by Dykstra Naval architects, it is made to the specifications of its owner who is a very experienced sailor. All on this yacht is thinking of safety, seaworthiness but not leaving aside the maximum comfort it provides for life onboard. There are no other boats like this on the market this is the reason for its customization.

All Bluewater Cruising Sailboats For Sale

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2009 Outbound 44

2006 Outbound 46

1999 Marten Custom Bill Tripp 72

1993 Robert Perry Custom 63

1990 Little Harbor 59

1989 Windship 60 Cutter

1989 Little Harbor 54

1988 Little Harbor 46

1983 Mason 53

Featured bluewater sailboat brands.

HYLAS COLLECTION

The premier collection of pre-owned Hylas bluewater sailing yachts that are currently available on the market. Collection Yacht brokers have sold more Hylas sailboats in the last decade than all other yacht brokerages combined.

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OYSTER COLLECTION

Oyster is one of the world’s top bluewater cruising sailboat brands. Built in the UK, Oysters are finely crafted seaworthy yachts that capable of ocean passages and circumnavigation, with their most popular models being in the 50-70ft range. The Oyster Collection features current Oyster yachts for sale as well as videos, reviews, and guides.

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PASSPORT COLLECTION

Built to meet the style and taste of the American sailing market, Passport yachts are admired worldwide for their hand-crafted quality, proven passage making abilities, and well-thought out designs. While the award winning Passport 545 is perhaps the most popular model, the entire line is built to the same standards and respected for its sailing performance, fine interior woodwork, and beautiful detailing inside and out.

View Passport Collection

Bluewater Cruising Sailboat Reviews, Guides, & News

Passport 545 Aft Cockpit Walkthrough Video

Passport yachts gives us a closer look at the interior and exterior of the Passport 545 Aft Cockpit sailboat.

Promo Video of the All New Oyster 565

A great promo video that Oyster has released highlighting features of the all new Oyster 565.

Oyster 725 Review

The 725 was built, as many Oysters are, to sail anywhere her owners wish to go. She is the first boat in the range to have exceptional and dedicated crew quarters.

Oyster 625 Review

The Oyster 625 is a powerful sailboat that can be handled by an experienced couple but also has ample space for a captain and crew if that is the desired cruising mode.

OYSTER YACHT SALES EXPERTS

Collection Yachts, based in the yachting capital of the world, Fort Lauderdale, is proud to represent buyers and sellers of Oyster Yachts. Traveling with clients across the globe to find the best Oyster Yacht has resulted in long lasting relationships and many sales. Like Oyster, Collection Yachts provides top quality service for as long as a client owns their Oyster.

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Better Sailing

Pros and Cons of Steel Sailboats

What is better, a Steel or a Fiberglass sailboat? This is a common question that does not have an easy answer. Both Steel and fiber have their advantages and disadvantages and depend mainly on the size and use that we will give to our boat.

Pros and cons of Steel boats versus fiberglass boats (Glass Reinforced Plastic or GRP):

Steel sailboat hulls are much stronger than fiber or GRP boats. In general, Steel allows stronger structures to be equal in weight. A Steel boat is much more robust, and its structure is more rigid, so a Steel boat will better withstand bumps and rubs. In the event of an impact, the Steel bends while a fiber boat breaks, this as long as it is not a very violent or large blow. Steel has a high ductility or ability to withstand permanent deformations without breakage, and in this way, a Steel boat can be stranded on a beach, resisting the chafing of these abuses.

Steel hulls, if the right alloy is used, resist saltwater corrosion better than steel boats and do not require any special paint. They also suffer from galvanic or electrolytic corrosion that can be avoided with a well-insulated electrical installation and placing sacrificial anodes. Fiber boats do not suffer the effects of corrosion, although they can be affected by the phenomenon of osmosis and suffer from the sun’s ultraviolet rays.

Steel is a lighter material than fiber, this makes the construction of a Steel sailboat a lighter vessel. Therefore it will be faster and will need less power/wind to move the same distance as a fiber boat, which also means a lower consumption boat.

Manageability

Fiber boats being heavier are also more stable and solid at high speeds, and when the state of the sea begins to get choppy and complicated. A Steel boat at high speeds can feel more nervous and rough with a choppy sea.

Steel boats are louder than fiber boats, especially at high speeds and with bad seas. It is is a better transmitter of temperature, and therefore and if it is not well insulated in its construction with a thick layer of polyurethane or other insulators, it will be hotter in hot and cold places in the winter. Steel boats also suffer from condensation problems more than fiber boats. Therefore a fiber boat can be somewhat more comfortable than a Steel boat.

• Maintenance

Steel boats because of corrosion require greater maintenance, a problem to be monitored are the galvanic pairs of material, a corrosion effect that occurs when pieces of different metals are put together. We must be careful with the quality of any part or screw we use as it could cause us a serious problem. We must also clean the boat thoroughly with fresh water after each use.

Fiber boats do not have rivets, welds, or corrosion to worry about, although possible osmosis problems must be monitored every year, which, if not treated in time, can cause serious problems. However, osmosis problems with the new resins can be. They have palliated a lot with respect to helmets of 20 or 30 years ago. The anti-fouling that is a painting that is given to the live work of the boats to prevent different types of algae, barnacles, and snails from being embedded in the hull, is much more expensive for Steel boats than for boat fiber.

Small dents in a Steel boat are easy to repair, but when the damage is in large areas of the hull, repairs are more difficult and expensive than in fiber boats. Welding in Steel is a very specialized and complicated job, finding professionals trained to repair fiber is easier and cheaper. However, a large and partial repair in a fiber hull does not guarantee the original strength since the structural tension will no longer be the same at all points.

Fiberglass boats have a more beautiful, polished, and shiny finish. The surface finish of the Steel boats leaves the marks of the interior reinforcements marked. For these boats to look good, it is necessary to paint them with special and very thick paints. They are actually covered with putty to hide the inevitable buns and construction defects. This layer of putty must be polished by hand so that it is finished with a good finish and should be done in a controlled environment with dust extraction. It is definitely a complicated process, very expensive, and that greatly increases the price of this type of boats.

It is true that the GRP burns faster and easier, so in the event of a fire, a Steel boat will always be safer. Fiber or GRP boats are built with petroleum products and therefore are combustible. Also, before an impact with a rock, it is easier to make a waterway in a fiber boat than in a Steel one.

Residual Value

The wear and tear of fiberglass boats are greater over the years, exposure to sunlight and osmosis do not affect Steel boats. They also better resist the encrustation of seaweed and marine crustaceans. The greater rigidity and structural strength also make Steel ships stand up better over the years, and for all this, they depreciate less than fiber boats.

Fiber boats allow serial construction from a first mold or design, this leads to faster manufacturing and lower construction costs. For this and as we have explained before, Steel ships are generally much more expensive than GRP ships.

Pros and Cons of Steel Sailboats – Summary

In general, Steel allows for stronger structures, but it is much more expensive to build than in GRP. For small boats, which is the case of recreational boating, in which there is no need for large structural resistance, the GRP is undoubtedly a good choice. As the ship grows in size, the thing gets complicated, since the GRP is not able to give the required resistance to the ship without an already significant weight gain.

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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Steel Hull Sailboat Boats for sale

1-15 of 109

Miami Beach, Florida

Make Beneteau

Posted Over 1 Month

ngine hours (total): 500 length overall (LOA): 39 make / manufacturer: Beneteau propulsion type: sail year manufactured: 1991 length overall (LOA): 39 make / manufacturer: 1991 Beneteau Oceanis 390 propulsion type: sail year manufactured: 1991 Beneteau oceanis 390 owners version building 1991 powered by Universal diesel very good and clean boatThe BENETEAU Oceanis 390 (39')Owner's Version (Special Layout Design) is the two cabin layout, two head arrangement with separate walk in shower, A large L-Shaped sofa and large folding teak table, galley is to starboard entering from the cockpit, there is also a starboard entrance to the aft cabin, there is a large double berth, a sit down navigation station then aft a head, the main salon is very light and features center line teak table drop-leaf with L-shaped convertible settee at starboard, going forward the head is also starboard with hanging locker to port. The spacious salon is large enough for everyone. Boats for Sale Search YachtWorld United States (change) 1991 Beneteau Oceanis 390 Owners Version Boat Name NOBLE AMBITIONS Specs Builder: Beneteau Dimensions LOA: 39 ft 0 in Beam: 13 ft 5 in LWL: 36 ft 8 in Maximum Draft: 4 ft 6 in Bridge Clearance: 54 ft 5 in Engines Engine 1: Engine Brand: Universal Year Built: 1991 Engine Model: 3m20 Engine/Fuel Type: Diesel Engine Hours: 568 Tanks Fresh Water Tanks: (40 Gallons) Fuel Tanks: (45 Gallons) Holding Tanks: (1 Gallons) Accommodations Number of twin berths: 2 Number of cabins: 2 Number of heads: 2 Layout & Accommodations Salon: Headroom: 6'5 Lockers under berths with rigid water tank (40 gal.) Table with fiddlers, bottle rack Anodized aluminum mast support Deck liner with wooden panels, access to mast wires, sliding shutters Opening deck hatch Opening port in coach house Fixed porthole Bar and shelf along the hull Fluorescent light above table Cushions and backrests with removable covers Grab rail Teak and holly floorboards Forward Cabin: Double bed Lockers on the hull Stowing space under berth Seat with stowing space Shelf, drawer & mirror Hanging locker Two fixed ports Ventilation through dorade Ceiling light Two reading lights Curtains Wooden paneling and vinyl lining Forward head: Formica laminated bulkhead Marine toilet with holding tank Stowage with mirror and door Wash basin with hot and cold pressurized water with shower Opening deck hatch Ventilation through dorade Fluorescent light Accessories: glass with holder, towel holders, toilet paper holder Aft cabin: Double bed Shelf along the hull Hanging locker with mirror Vanity Drawer Settee with stowage Two opening ports on coach roof and cockpit Ceiling lamps Reading lamps Ventilation through dorade Access to back of engine, stern gland, engine water intake and electrical bilge pump Aft marine head with separate stall water Aft head: White Formica laminated bulkhead USCG Marine head with holding tank Washbasin with hot and cold pressurized water Mirror & Shelves Stowing space under washbasin Opening port Fixed port in hull Ceiling light Ventilation through dorade box Accessories: glass with holder, towel holders, toilet paper holder Separate shower Galley The well ventilated functional galley will bring out the cook in everyone. Designed for extended cruising, this vessel offers a large refrigerator/icebox, 3 burner stove with oven and hot &cold pressurized water, stainless steel sinks and stowage space. Hot/Cold pressure water in showers and galley, Immersion Heater & Calorifier , 12v Refrigerator , Cooker/Oven/Grill, Radio (VHF), Cockpit cushions, Showers with self-activated pump-out Electronics & Navigation Chart table with stowing space for charts Shelves under chart table Bookshelf Panel for navigation instruments Electronic panel, 16 functions, hinged for easy access to wiring Fluorescent light Chart reading light Electrical, Power & Plumbing 12v / 120v including shore supply, Hot/Cold pressure water in showers and galley , Immersion Heater & Calorifier , 12v Refrigerator , Cooker/Oven/Grill , Radio CD-Player ,Speakers in saloon and cockpit (with fader), Showers with electric pump-out Deck & Equipment Bow stemhead fitting with anchor roller, fast track attachment, and 2 fairleads with built-in rollers (patented) Self bailing anchor well with mooring eye Mechanical windlass One opening hatch for lighting and ventilation of front cabin and head Pulpit with navigation lights Opening aft push pit with horseshoe buoy support and teak flag pole Anodized aluminum toe rail with 4 fair heads in-corporating built-in rollers (patented), 2 aft and 2 amidships Stainless steel profiled stanchions Double s/s lifelines with opening gates Four dorades with s/s guards Genoa tracks with adjustable car Two teak grabrails Mainsail traveler with adjustable car One winch Lewmar 30 S/T or equivalent for main sheet with cleat One winch Lewmar 30S/T or equivalent for main halyard and reefing lines Two Footblocks Two Lewmar 46 S/T (or equivalent) genoa sheet winches with cleat Four blocks for reefing lines with jammers Two genoa turning blocks Slatted teak seating in cockpit Cockpit table Teak cockpit grating Steering wheel (leather covered) with pedestal compass Two sail lockers with life raft storage in cockpit One gas bottle locks One bathing platform, teak laid, with 2 lockers Rubber protection at base of transom S/s chain plates for shroud, forestay, baby stay and backstay One winch handle holder One double action manual bilge pump One aft self-bailing anchor well One aft anchor roller Swim ladder Companionway step/locker Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

32' CATAMARAN SAILBOAT HULL / LARGE PROJECT SAILBOAT

Dayton, Ohio

Relisting do to non-paying low feedback Buyer..... Up for sale is a 32' Catamaran sailboat hull in need of a total rebuild. This open water sailboat is in poor condition but the hull is ridged and strong. I purchased this sailboat from a marina in Waukegan IL in 2008. The marina did provide me with a clear title. The hull is thick fiberglass and we considered it a good candidate for a full rebuild. The hull is the only thing we considered usable on the entire boat. Lower hull is all glass and very ridged. One thing that will need to be fixed, there is a steel skid runner that extends the entire length of the bottom of the hull, (it is a piece of like 1.5" x 1.5" angle iron that they bonded to the bottom of the hull). This runner should have been out of stainless or aluminum but it was done in steel and it is rusting. A line of fiberglass around it has split. You will want to simply cut out all of this steel skid runner and either replace it or simply remove it as it is not needed. There was an inboard engine and drive but I parted that out some time ago as it was not going to be part of the rebuild I had planned. There is also a large aluminum mast with roller furler included but the mast was damaged while in storage, (yard maintenance guy drove over it about 4' from the top). This catamaran hull will need a total rebuild and is sold AS/IS. Do not buy this boat if you are thinking you can just paint it and throw some sails on it. Transport is of course the issue. There is no trailer. Beam is a little over 14', (we permitted at 14' for transport). I personally, would think about sectioning the boat right down the center for transport. I have done this before to a 45' boat that we were reconfiguring. It can be done in a day with a common circular saw. It can then easily be pulled with a gooseneck trailer and a p/u truck. Another possible transport strategy would be to find a carrier who can haul the boat on a 45degee angle on a low deck trailer. We can crane load from our location on to your transport or you can possibly just back the trailer under the elevated twin hulls. Loading and transport is obviously at buyers expense. I am sorry, I simply do not have the time to get involved with transport estimates and logistics. Good luck bidding and please, no zero feedback or low feedback buyers unless you contact me first. ****The Ohio River is less than 50 miles away from our location. There have been Ebayer's suggestions that possibly some basic hull repair is done on location and then the cat is towed down the Ohio River. This is a possible transport solution.

43' Steel Sailboat Hull for finishing and bluewater cruising.

Palatka, Florida

Make Custom

Model George Sutton Dished Steel Cutter

Category Cruiser Motorcycles

Length 43.0

43 foot LOD Dished steel, George Sutton designed Custom made by a professional shipyard. This vessel has never been launched and is awaiting completion. Interior stringers are predrilled for easy bolting of interior. Wear points, Chainplates, Stanchion bases, Hatch hinges, and mooring cleats are all welded stainless steel to prevent rust staining by lines etc. wearing through the paint. I purchased the vessel from the welder. vessel was white blasted prior to having 5 + coats of epoxy sprayed. I rolled on over 20 gallons of additional epoxy coats. In addition to Spars, sails, rigging and interior woodwork, the Vessel needs engine (Designed for 85=100 HP diesel), needs prop and prop shaft. I have a transmission that probably needs rebuilt. Also it has 10,000 pounds of lead ballast in keel, 200 gallons of fuel tankage also built into the keel. Engine bed mounts welded in over the bilge. Bronze steering quadrant. Stainless Steel destroyer wheel.This hull is very well built and would make an ideal bluewater cruiser or circumnavigator. Priced at under half of the cost of a new hull build out, this boat is a great project.

2013 MACGREGOR 26M SAILBOAT BLACK HULL

Springfield, Virginia

Make Macgregor

Category Sailboats

Length 26.0

I bought this boat brand new in 2013 and with full factory equipments that factory had to offer at the time. My wife does not like it so I ended up buying another 24' jet boat and I have to sell this one. It is currently at my slip at Washington Sailing Marina. I only sailed for one hour with my instructor and used the motor approximately less than 3 hours to run around a little bit and that was it. I spent most my time on my 24' jet boat. I enjoyed the time with this sailboat mostly on installing electronic equipments, stereo system, bow thruster. That's right, I installed Sideshift bow thruster to help make it much more maneuverable and easier to moving in and out of slip under any condition. Sideshift is the only best company making add-on bow thruster, a very high quality thruster. You can visit them at www.sideshift.com. Black hull is rare and it is awesome to look at. In fact, I have many good comments from bystanders. There is absolutely nothing wrong with this boat. You can have a peace of mind and never have to wonder if anything is wrong with it; just like buying a used car and wonder if it has ever been in an accident. I also have this boat listed locally, so I preserve the right to end this listing early if someone bought it. If you are in the market for an excellent used Macgregor sailboat, then this is it. My lost if your gain. Please make an offer only you are serious about it then we can arrange a sea-trial; otherwise, lets not waste each other time. My contact is [email protected] . Here the list of items on this boat, I might miss a few thing. sideshift bow thruster SS230 serie. Visit www.sideshift.com for more details on this awesome bow thruster. Extremely useful in maneuvering tight spot and under severe whether condition. A must for any 26’ boat. Aluminum trailer with deluxe trailer upgrade: include brake actuator, disc brakes, galvanized torsion bar axle, aluminum brake caliper housings, and since plated brake discs.Black Hull gelcoat with white stripes and underbodyEvinrude E-tec outboard 60 hp engine white color, this engine also have built-in diagnosis system to check itself every time you start the engine. Top speed about 20 mph, 7000 rpm, winterize this engine take about one minutes, it basically winterize itself. Outboard linkage: links the engine and rudder so the steering wheel will move both the outboard engine and rudder at the same time.Transom ladderGarmin 547xs chartplotter/fishfinder combo with transom mount transducerNMEA 2000 network cable added so that the garmin 547xs can read and display the engine critical data.Genoa sail with CDI furling systemBoom vangMain sail furling system to raise the main sail up and down with ease, very nice feature.Mast raising systemSony marine amplifier and Kicker subwoofermarine CD/MP3 head unit 2 sony marines 6 1/2” speakers2 clarion marine 6 1/2” speakersAlcohol and electric stovecockpit filler cushionscockpit black bimini to match with black hull2 stainless steel cockpit cup holder1 LED cockpit light to light up the cockpit at night6 LED courtesy lights inside cabin120 V power inverter. cabin fananchorsolar power exhaust fan to suck out moisture 200 Walt solar power panel to recharge battery while sailing out there.Total of 4 deep cycle batteries bank on board2 gas tank for a total of 17 gallons.

1987 Bruce Roberts Sailboat Ketch Rig

St Paul, Minnesota

Make Bruce Roberts Sailboat

Model Ketch Rig

1987 Bruce Roberts Sailboat Ketch Rig BRING YOUR OFFERS - Bruce Roberts Ketch Rig Sailboat. Steel hull construction. 50% completed.  47,000 lbs displacement, 17,000 ballast, 1135 square feet sail area. Includes onboard sauna for two, full galley with gimbaled stove.  A36 grade steel used throughout construction, 3/16 inch thickness on the hull and bulkheads, 4 Onboard tanks (use them for fuel or water storage). Perkins 50 HP diesel inboard (with less than 2 hrs SMOH) with extra injectors Exterior has 2 coats of Rustoleum primer for protection from the elements (Entire top deck covered with heavy duty tarp which makes boarding a challenge yet has kept the harsh weather away. We would strongly recommend sandblasting the entire exterior, and then completing the finish prior to launch (once this is in the water, it will likely stay in the water). For completion, this is preliminary list of items that it will need. Winches, rigging, standing rigging, pilot house fabrication, running gear completion, etc. custom 55' mast (recycled street light pole (octagonal) with a 25' boom  custom 35' mizzen mast Call Jason today to arrange a tour of this unique vessel. NOTE:  this boat has never been in the water and is located at Watergate Marina.  Due to it's overall height, and width, it is not able to be transported over land from it's current location.  The keel is 17' long, 4' deep, 2' wide The rudder is 4' wide overall and 5' tall From the bottom of the keel to the deck is 13' (add another 4' for the cabin top and pilot house) Launching the boat will take significant time, effort and money

46' Motorsailer Yacht: FISHER 46 - Powerboat / Sailboat - Estate sale

Bellingham, Washington

Make 46' Motorsailer Yacht Powerboat Sailboat

Model FISHER 46

Length 46.0

46' Motorsailer Yacht: FISHER 46 - Powerboat / Sailboat - Estate sale Due to unique circumstances, and the passing of her longtime owner (31 years), we are offering this beautiful Fisher 46 motorsailer yacht for immediate auction sale. This situation offers a great opportunity for a new owner to acquire this very rare, and desirable vessel, and pilot her on many more happy voyages into the future. PLEASE NOTE: We are not mariners, or boat experts, but we have tried to describe this yacht to the best of our ability. Read on to, discover more about legendary Fisher yachts, and the fascinating story behind The Meretune! The Meretune: This beautiful yacht features a distinctive design large displacement hull that offers ample room down below, with 2 cabins, and 2 washrooms. It also offers a neat galley, and large saloon with couches, and ample storage. The over-sized Pilot house with large sunroof that makes a warm enclosed area above deck, that can comfortably seat the whole crew, which is very much appreciated in the evening, or in cooler or windy weather. It is equipped with an inline 6 cylinder 6.2 liter Ford Diesel engine, located directly below the pilothouse, and accessible from both a hatch in the pilothouse floor, and from alongside in the passageway down below. It has a front and rear private cabin, 2 heads (full washrooms), and a well equipped galley. The saloon area with couches on each side can be used as a lounge, for dining, or additional sleeping area. Ceiling height is a very comfortable 6' 6". Pictures of the Meretune - Fisher 46 HULL: DECK: PILOT HOUSE: BELOW DECK: SALOON: FORWARD PRIVATE CABIN: GALLEY: FRONT WASHROOM: PASSAGEWAY TO AFT: ENGINE ROOM: REAR PRIVATE CABIN: REAR BATHROOM: The Fisher legend: Considered to be one of the best designed Motor-Sailers ever built, the Fisher Sailing Yachts strength is renowned for being able to deliver her crew safely to any destination in the world. The Fisher Sailing Yacht line is easy recognizable: The professional looking wheelhouse and a hull resembling a North Atlantic fishing boat with rounded stern and high freeboard. The double masts with Ketch sailplan is another distinctive feature of the larger yachts in the Fisher line. They have always revered for their seaworthiness and the ability to remain unflustered in extreme weather. Fishers were built in a number of different sizes, with only about a dozen built in the largest size: The Fisher 46 The Meretune Story: The Meretune started life in 1977 in a boatyard, in Chichester England. The heavy solid fibreglass hull was built around a long shallow 10 ton cast iron keel. After the major construction work was completed she was christened "The Meretune of Chichester" before being moved to Sri Lanka for woodwork finishing in exotic hardwoods there by Neil Marine. The early part of her life just after being built is a bit unclear, but at some point she was sold to her first owner in 1978 at at some point made it across the Atlantic and ended up in Florida where she was purchased by her second owner in 1984. She was brought through the Panama canal in the early 1990's, and has explored the coastlines, and islands of the Pacific Northwest ever since. Specifications: Length: 46 Feet Beam: 15 Feet Draft Minimum: 6' 6" Displacement: 49.999 Lbs Headroom between decks: 6' 6" Fuel Capacity: 400 Gallons (2 stainless steel tanks) Fresh water Capacity Capacity: 300 Gallons (2 tanks) Engine: Ford 6.2 Liter inline 6 Cylinder diesel - 140 HP Engine cooled: Fresh water Steering: Wheel Drive: Shaft Prop: Bronze 3 Blade Rigging: ketch rigged with aluminum spars, and stainless steel rigging. Fuel consumption (approx): 1.3 Gallons/ Hr. at cruising speed (according to sales brochure) Cruising Speed: 9 Knots Batteries: 3 x 12 Volt Deck Gear: 3 halyard winches, 3 sheet winches, Electric Francis Marine 400 Windlass Anchors: Danforth and Plow - 328 feet of chain Safety gear included: Life jackets, Search Light, Danbouy, Horn, Emergency rudder steering. Bilge pumps: 3 electric Heads: 2 manual, with handbasin and shower. Cabin: Heating and dual A/C Fresh Water: Pressurized. Hot Water. Galley / Kitchen: Sink, Oven, Icebox Disclaimer?: The particulars detailed herein are intended to give a fair description of the vessel but their accuracy cannot be guaranteed, these particulars are not a part of any contract or offer and are supplied to give the best general description of the vessel possible, as basic reference only. Recent Restoration & Refurbishing (completed a year and a half ago): About 3 years ago the Meretune was brought ashore for some extensive restoration work that included all new windows throughout, all exterior finishes were redone, with considerable reworking of the scuppers. The interior has had considerable refinishing too including most of the woodwork, and paneling. Sadly the long time owner passed away before the work was completed. The work went on and was finished, and took over a year to complete. She has been sitting for about a year and a half in a boatyard ever since. She has not returned to the water, but is looking for a new owner now to take charge of her, and pilot her onto future adventures. Approximately $90,000.00 was spent on this extensive exterior, and interior restoration work. See photos below: A partial Marine Survey was done around a year and a half ago focusing mainly on electrical systems, with some minor look at mechanical points too. It was determined that some of the electrical systems should be brought up to date, as most of them are original. We will leave this up to next owner to decide how to proceed with this. Update to your specifications, or continue to use her as-is. This survey is available as a PDF file by email for your reference. We will cooperate fully with any current complete Marine Surveys that you wish to have done (at your expense). Pricing and Terms: Although offered by broker recently at 249,000USD we are offering it direct for $199,999.00. A non-refundable $2,000.00 deposit is due immediately, payable by Paypal. Balance must be paid in full within 7 days of sale. The boat is sold as-is, where-is, and it will be the new owners responsibility to do any final fitting and adjustments, and pay to have it moved back into the water at the boatyard, and any applicable taxes etc. Replacement cost on a yacht like this is $800,000.00, and possibly much more, depending on fittings, and accessories. This is a superb vessel. In the right hands, with minor finishing, it can deliver many more years of faithful service and enjoyment. With the reputation Fisher yachts have, and with only about a dozen made in this largest size, these are not available often. The new owner of this beautiful yacht won't be disappointed! Inspection arrangements and reimbursement: We recommend you visit the Meretune firsthand located in a boatyard in Bellingham WA. I am available to show prospective bidder/buyers this beautiful Yacht, and can meet them in the area, or pick them up at the Bellingham airport if they are flying in to see it. Reimbursement of travel expenses (regular air & hotel) will be deducted from purchase price on a completed transaction. Contact Info: Click here - if you have any questions you would like answered by email Or, call or text Paul at cellular: 604-377-3225 if I can give you any support, or to arrange an inspection or purchase of this beautiful yacht. Links: Fisher Yachts International Fisher Owners Association - UK based Fisher Owners Group (FOG) - North America

Offshore Sailboat

Toronto, Ontario

Make Murray 33

Length 33.0

33 ft Ted Brewer designed cruising Cat-Ketch (Steel Hull) with 2 unstayed 50ft carbon fiber masts, fully battened sails. Professionally finished, 28 HP Volvo diesel, isolation transformer, 1500 Watt inverter, 30A battery charger, high output (120A) alternator with 3 stage regulator, Propane stove w. Oven, Propane sniffer, 2 external 20lb Propane tanks, Microwave, 12V fridge/freezer, Lavac head, VHF, Stereo w. 10CD changer, GPS, Autohelm, Raymarine A57D Depthfinder/GPS/Chartplotter with all Canadian Charts, Radar, 200W solar panels, Watermaker, 1 fresh & 1 saltwater pressure pump, 1 electric & 1 manual bilge pump, macerator pump for pumpout, bilge alarm, 3 solar vents (24 hr. type) SS Davits, SS Bow & Stern pulpits, SS bow roller, SS Stanchions & lifelines, 2 aluminum boom vangs, 3 Anchors(Delta, Bruce, Danforth), Parachute anchor, Muir “Cheetah” electric windlass, Pedestal Steering, Laptop hookup to GPS, 17” remote LCD colour display in cockpit, 2 self tailing Anderson F405T winches, Hard (Fiberglass) Dodger, Sunbrella Bimini, cockpit cushions, complete cockpit enclosure, Leecloths, SS Boarding Ladder. Commissioned in 1998. Sailed in Lake Ontario only. Loc’n: Lake Ontario, Whitby, ON Specs: LOA 33ft, Beam 10Ft 11in, LWL 27ft Depth 5ft10”, Displ. 15 000 lbs, Ballast 5200 lbs, Headroom 72.5” V-berth: LxW 74”x63.5” Q-Berth: 77” Stbd Berth:78.25” Port Berth (Double- drop table): 72” Cockpit: 6 ft Registration # : 822460 This is a custom built vessel (Cost $200 000+) and has been well maintained. With modern epoxy paints, a well maintained steel hull will easily last 100 years or more. The boat has only been sailed in Lake Ontario. No salt water exposure. One owner, excellent condition, will assist with delivery (help to sail her to her new home to assist new owner with getting to know boat and equipment, if so desired, or arrange for trucking). Have enjoyed sailing this boat safely and comfortably since 1998 and would sail her anywhere with complete confidence.

Cruising Sailboat

Canastota, New York

Asking $45,000 Call or e-mail to arrange a visit: [email removed] or leave a message on my skype phone at 315-254-2452. The boat is located near Syracuse, NY. For full ad go to: https://persephone37.wordpress.com/ Dreaming of living aboard and sailing off to the islands? Persephone is a beautiful, well-maintained, fully equipped, self-sufficient, center cockpit sloop ready for cruising. As a well equipped and comfortable long-term live aboard yacht, she has taken her current owners to the Caribbean and back to upstate New York a number of times- and now she’s ready to take you to your dream destinations. “Persephone” was designed as the perfect coastal cruising vessel… large enough to be very comfortable yet simple enough to be able to sail her by yourself… a perfect combination of comfort and function. Through years of cruising, thoughtful upgrades and enhancements, her current owners have produced an exceptional live aboard vessel. Her extensive upgrades and refurbishing over the years makes her the one of the best equipped cruisers you will find in this price range on the market. Seasoned sailors will immediately appreciate the new Awl Grip on the hull, and on deck the Lewmar 65 winches and deep comfortable center cockpit protected from the elements by a dodger and bimini. Her windlass makes anchoring simple, and after the anchor is down, a cold beverage from the custom refrigerator will be appreciated. Worried about your beverages warming up at anchor? Never fear- her solar panels and wind generator output provides more than enough power. Down below, she has a spacious salon with center folding dinette, 6' headroom that leads forward to a head and V-Berth. LED cabin lights and aluminum Lewmar port lights keep brighten the interior, day or night. Her two staterooms and two heads offers plenty of room, lots of privacy, and an abundance of storage. When the winds dies, she is equipped with a 32 hp Universal diesel engine, 2 fuel tanks with Racor filters, and two 100 gallon water tanks. Main Salon ***Pictures Below***** The main salon features settees, port and starboard, and a centerline table with folding leaves and storage. There are plenty of opening ports, and an overhead hatch to provide wonderful ventilation. There is a navigator’s station aft of the starboard settee and the galley is aft of the port settee. A large custom made marquetry sailboat scene graces the forward bulkhead to port. Master Stateroom The O’Day 37 has a unique aft cabin master stateroom entered from the cockpit. It is completely private with a wonderful queen size custom pillow-top spring mattress berth. There is a hanging locker to port with storage shelves adjacent to the locker and berth. Additional storage is provided by more shelves and drawers to starboard. Five opening ports, together with the aft cabin companionway, provide wonderful ventilation. A private ensuite head contains a manual head and a vanity sink as well as a single opening port and overhead hatch. Guest Stateroom The guest stateroom is forward in the forepeak and consists of a comfortable v-berth with filler, storage under and in drawers and on shelves. An overhead hatch and an opening port allows for great ventilation. There is a full-size hanging locker aft of this cabin and opposite the head. Galley The spacious well laid out u-shaped galley is to port forward of the companionway and opposite the navigation station. It features 2 deep sinks with a butcher block lid, 3 burner stove with oven, a microwave, and plenty of easy access storage. The large, sensible, easy access refrigerator/freezer has a stainless steel holding plate and is just aft of the navigation table. Cockpit By far, the most comfortable cockpit you’ll find. Deep coamings with just the right angle to sit back and enjoy the sailing or the sunset. The teak table provides room for entertaining and dining all under the shade of the bimini. 2 huge lockers provides storage for everything! The helm has superior visibility while underway. “Persephone” 1981 O’Day Center Cockpit Sloop Builder: O’Day Designer: C. Raymond Hunt Dimensions LOA: 37' LWL: 30’4? Beam: 11’3? Displacement: 14,000 lbs Draft: 5' Bridge Clearance: 47' Ballast: 6,000 lbs Engine: Universal Diesel HP: 32 Tankage Fuel: 50 gals in 2 tanks Water: 185 gals in 2 tanks Holding: 15 gals Rigging & Sails New Rigging – New Stayloks – New Turnbuckles New Fully Battened Mainsail – 8.4 oz. Contender Cloth, 2 reef points Profurl Roller Furling 120 roller furl jib 90/Yankee 9 oz. roller furl jib Barient #10 main halyard winch Barient #18 mainsheet winch Barient #18 jib halyard winch Harken Lazy Jacks Lewmar Boom Vang Oversized Main & Jib Halyards – 9/16 Sampson Yacht Braid All Running Rigging – Samson Yacht Braid 2 Lewmar 65 primary self-tailing winches with Sunbrella covers Schaeffer oversized jib cars Electronics Raymarine 5000 Autopilot with below deck linear drive Standard Horizon DSC VHF Mic WHAM capable New Garmin 740 Touchscreen Color Chartplotter GPS (2012) has US Coastal + Alaska & Hawaii and Bahamas Explorer charts Standard Horizon DS 45 Depth Sounder Standard Horizon Speed Log Standard Horizon Wind Meter JRC 24 mile radar LaCrosse Weather Station Mast VHF Antenna Electrical 12v/110v systems with clearly labeled electrical panel and breakers 12 Volt Ships Power System 30 Amp Shore Power System 3 Siemens 75 watt solar panels on custom built arch 12v lighting Masthead Tri-Color Light/Anchor Light Class 2 Running Lights which are larger & have more visibility range 4 Interstate Deep Cycle Golf Cart Batteries (400 amp hour) New 2008 New Alternator 2009 Aerogen 6 Wind generator 2000 watt Inverter 12 volt bilge pump Propane shutoff solenoid switch for safety in galley Galley U-shaped galley with lots of storage Isotherm stainless steel holding plate DC refrigeration system with bronze March pump and digital Carel Controls Hot/cold pressure water Shurflo freshwater pump Hillerange LPG 3 Burner Stove with oven Microwave Oven 2 deep stainless steel sinks Cabinets, drawers and top loading dry storage locker Butcher block sink cover for added counter space Force 10 stainless steel 6 gallon hot water heater engine exchange Accomodations New LED lighting in main cabin 15” Flatscreen television with DVD player AM/FM stereo with 2 speakers Teak Interior with Teak & Holly Sole Large Framed Marquetry in Salon Sckandvik Faucet/Shower – Forward Head New Jabsco Toilets (2009) (3) opening hatches, (16) opening Lewmar aluminum ports Screens for some ports Engine 3 Engine room lights Rebuilt Universal diesel fresh water cool engine with easy access from front and back with 2 New water pumps and heat exchanger PSS Dripless Shaft Seal Hurth Transmission new 2004 Groco Bronze Sea strainer Dual Fuel Tank System with Dual Racor Filters – 50 gallon capacity AWAB 316 Stainless Steel hose clamps used throughout – Superior Non-Perforated – Lasts forever Deck New vinyl covered stainless steel double lifelines with opening gates each side Foam vinyl covered custom cockpit cushions Dodger with attached Bimini Anchor Locker Propane Locker on Aft Deck 44 lb Bruce Anchor with new (2012) 110’ oversized 3/8” chain and 120' 5/8” rope rode Fortress FX 23 with 50’ 3/8” chain & 80’ 5/8” rope rode Lewmar 2000 Electric Windlass Polished Stainless Steel Engine Controls 28” Stainless Steel steering wheel Stainless Steel Ritchie Compass at Helm Stainless Steel Bow Pulpit Stainless steel Stern Rail with opening gate Stainless steel built-in stern swim ladder Brushed stainless steel custom-built stern arch with dinghy davits Manual bilge pump Keel stepped mast Performance fin keel Stainless steel bow chocks 3 Bow Cleats Mainsail Cover Custom made companionway washboards with Lexan windows Edson Pedestal with Pedestal Guard Teak folding cockpit table with 4 cup holder Outboard Motor storage board Lifesling with Sunbrella cover Force 10 BBQ propane grill with custom cover Additional Davis radar reflector USCG safety equipment Boat hook, lines, fenders Emergency Tiller

Classic Collectible1938 Hull #1 24' 6" Typhoon Wooden Sailboat - Winthrop Warner

Port Hueneme, California

1938 Hull #1 24' 6" Typhoon Wooden Sailboat Designed by Naval Architect Winthrop Warner / Built by Whitaker Marine This is Hull #1 documented as "Typhoon". She is a beautiful example of a compact, full keel, blue water yacht. Her distinctive lines and fine workmanship is evident throughout. Typhoon was restored. She yearns for an owner who can fully appreciate her legacy, with a strong desire to sail her often and continue to giver her TLC as she needs it! Specs 1938 Winthrop Warner 24' 6" Wooden Sloop Sailboat - recently restored Boat Name: Typhoon (Documented, same name as plans) Hull Year: 1938 Hull#: 1 (The first, the original and the construction was overseen by Winthrop Warner) Manufacturer: Whitaker Marine Company (East Hartford Conneticut.) Model: Typhoon Length 24' 6" Feet * Lying In Oxnard , California * Hull Material: Stem White Oak, Double Planked w/ Philipine Mahogany Wood Fiberglass + Epoxy Glue Barrier * Engine/Fuel Type: Single Diesel (Rebuilt < 200 hrs.) Additional Specs, Equipment and Information: Builder/Designer Builder: Winthrop Warner (Naval Architect) Dimensions LOA: 24' 6" LWL: 20' 4? Beam: 9' (Tip to Tip 33' 6" - Boomkin to Bowsprit) Displacement: 11,500 lbs Draft: 4' 10? Bridge Clearance: 5'5" Ballast: 3,500 lbs (Iron Keel) Engines Engine(s): Yanmar Engine(s) HP: 30 Engine Model: 3GM30F Hours: Est.140 Cruising Speed: 5 kts Recently rebuilt. $6000+ invested. No expense spared. Injectors, fuel pump, crank turned, professional complete assembly all new Yanmar parts! All receipts on boat Mechanical Bilge Pump: Manual Urchin & Electric Rule 1500 w/ float switch Steering - Wooden Wheel Worm Gear Fuel System Fuel: 25 Gallons Diesel (Tin Lined Copper) Shut-off valves under lazerette. Single Racor Fuel Filter. Marine Grade Fuel Hoses. Cabin Sole Solid Teak, professionally installed in 2005. Galley Fuel Shipmate Wood, Charcoal. Stove w/ Alcohol Adapter is not included in sale. No dinghy included. Fresh Water System Water: 15 gallons (Copper) Manual Original Bronze Sink Hand Pump. Bronze Seacocks. Sanitation System Toilet Jabsco, discharge for overboard . Shower / Hanging Wet Locker with with manual overboard pump. (5' headroom) Accommodations The interior is very spacious for a boat this size due to her generous 9' beam. My wife and I have found her to be a comfortable cruiser for both costal and offshore adventures. She has an impressive amount of storage and we recently purchased a brand new Shipmate wood stove which includes a bronze alcohol burner to bring her back to her original glory. Typhoon features a traditional yacht interior, white paint and varnished Mahogany througout. Her sole is soild teak She also has ample ventilation. * Sleeps 4 in 3 berths * Bronze opening ports - (6) * Cockpit cushions (blue) Galley Equipment Galley is located on the port side and is offers ample space for serious chefs. * Large Icebox * Original Bronze Handpumps (working perfectly) * Stainless Steel sink Electronics * Yanmar Engine Instrument gauges Electrical Battery Switch. Batteries: House: (2) 12v Group 27 AGM (100 Amp hours each 200 total) Engine: (1) 550 Cranking Amp Lead Acid Starter Charger: ProTech 1220i 20amp Xantrex Link Pro Battery Monitor Horizon VHF Radio Control Panel: Perko12v DC OCR LED Mastlight w/ strobe and photo diode ABYC Approved Wiring Deck Hardware and Rigging Sloop rigged double spreader New 1×19 Stainless standing rigging w/ New Nav-Tec Norseman SS end fittings and bronze turnbuckles Bronze Chainplates The deck is teak w/ marine plywood which was replaced. Solid Fir spars (varnished) 20# CQR Anchor + 15' 5/16" Chain & 250' 3/4" Line Jib Sheet Track Winches: 3 Merriman Bronze Mahogany fordeck and lazarette hatches; sliding Mahogany companionway hatch Lifeline Stanchion sockets Bronze bolted to deck & bulwarks Sails (376 Sq Ft.) * Working Jib - Good * Yankee - Condition Good * Mainsail - Condition Good *All Recently Professionall Repaired Photos *Shipmate Stove and heat shield not included in sale! *Shipmate Stove and heat shield not included in sale! Typhoon and the people we met treated us like royalty, rolling out the Red Carpet. Major 86's Restoration She had a major restoration on her in 1986 and received new mahogany shear planks, mahogany transom planks, deck beams, teak over plywood deck, mahogany gunwale planks, reinstalled bowsprit, new dawg house, and interior. Detailed Condition Report Some time in early 2000’s she was improperly stored inside a warehouse on the east coat for wintering, and it was to warm. She showed signs of plank separation as would be expected. At that point a decision was made (not by me, some other owner?) to lay a fiberglass sheath over the planks. I don’t know why they didn’t simply repack the planks and float her. Important: I drilled a new thru hole for the Bronze Depth transducer in 2007 and the wood was perfect. No water damage, no sogginess, no mold it was like brand new wood. I have never had a problem with her, and amazingly enough she is drier than the newer plastic boat I own. If you wanted to, you could remove the fiberglass barrier which was attached with Epoxy glue and restore her original wood planking finish. I considered it myself, but never got around to it. Shipping If you decide to ship her, we can assist you in hauling the boat out, stepping the mast, securing all items and supervise her loading on a properly setup and permitted delivery truck. There would be 2 sets of costs which are not included in the auction! 1) The first set of costs are the boat yards. This includes the haul out fees, and crane fees required to load the boat on the truck, plus removal of the mast which requires a crane and one additional hired, qualified boat hand. Estimated $1200. 2) The second set of fees is for the Owner's agent to supervise and assist in the complete process. $600 The acutal hiring / contracting of the shipping company would be soley the buyer's responsibility. Those costs vary, but shipping it back to the East Coast will most likely cost about $5K when all is said and done. Survey If you require a survey with a haul out, the yard fees will be an estimate $400 for the first day, then additional fees for layaway days thereafter. Although if the surveyor is scheduled correctly, it shouldn't require more than one day. There will also be a $250 fee for the captain reuired to move the boat to the haulout ramp, and back. The cost of the surveyor can vary, estimated cost of at least $300 - $500. The whole proposition estimated $1000 -1200. Generally the buyer selects a surveyor to ensure there is no bias to the owner in the report. The survey is paid for by the potential buyer. Special Notes The Shipmate Wood Stove & Heat Shield are not inlcuded in the sale and the oil lamp featured in the pictures is not included. A simple inexpensive alcohol or propane stove can be installed if you desire. Sale & Payment Terms The boat is sold as is with not warranty, and all sales are final. We accept a bank check, cashiers check or cash. The deposit must be paid at the completion of the auction through Ebay via CC or PayPal. The final payment will be held until the payment clears. A personal check can take up to 14 business days. A cashier's check will now require a 3 day hold due to the massive fraud using them. Upon completion of payment clearance, we will issue the buyer the Federal Documentaion with our authorized notary required, via Fed Ex mailer. If our assistance is required to haul the boat, step the mast, and assist the truck driver, these fees can be included in the initial payment or you can wait until after you receive the Federal Title Docs, and then issue another payment to cover these costs. All yard fees are to be paid directly to them. Our preferred yard is Channel Islands Boat Yard. They have pulled Typhoon many times, and are the cheapest, closest yard in town. Slip Fees The boat is currently on a county slip in Oxnard. It is possible they might allow it to be transfered to the new owner, but no guarantee. You will have to fill out all the appropriate applications, etc. The current slip rent is $372 per month. We can assist you and leave it under our name, if you continue to make the additional monthly payments until you can successfully apply, or have the boat moved. If the sale occurs before the next month's payment is due, there is no charge to you until the next month's payment is required. We also pay $30 a month to have the bottom cleaned, and $20 per month to have the topside cleaned. You can continue paying this fee, or we can cancel it, it is up to you once the boat is yours.

38foot pilothouse sailboat

Fort Pierce, Florida

Make Mariner

Model Pilothouse Cutter Rigged Sloop

Length 38.0

1980 Mariner Pilot House 38’ 12’ beamLocated in Fort Pierce FloridaFor Sale by owner $43,500 Rugged Cutter rigged with self tending boom with Pilot house! Great sailing and live aboard vessel with comfortable accommodations and layout. One of only eight New Hampshire built 38 Mariners built. Fast and seaworthy! Can be controlled from within the pilot house or the cockpit.Fuel DieselHule Material Fiberglass Draft 5 FeetEngine Perkins 4108 DieselEngine Hours 20This vessel has a recent refit over the last 2 years included in the list below . .replace bearings in roller furling new CQR anchor and Danforth 4 0 Lb. New anchor rode replace all halyards all wiring inspected replaced and re-fastened / secured as needed (old wiring not in use removed) this was done by a licensed electrician 4 new 6 volt batteries and cables etc.New CEN-Tech 1200 watt power inverter New plumbing hoses etc. for the toilet and waste disposal tankNew deck pump out for waste disposal New waste macerator and through hullNew fresh water plumbing installed in bathroom area sink and showerRebuilt hydraulic steering pumpNew seat cushion covers New hatch cover gasketsNew port window screens, glass, and gaskets Perkins 50 hp engine Rebuild all new cylinders, pistons,rings, main and rod bearings, crankshaft polished, cylinder head, Coast Guard approved hoses, new water pump and heat exchanger, new thermostat, new clutch plate, rebuilt starter, rebuilt sea strainer. New gauges tachometer, oil pressure, amp, water temp. depth sounderRebuild rudder New Stainless steel shaft and cutlass bearing and stuffing box seals.Recondition 16” dia. Maxie-Prop variable pitch propRecondition Racore water separator Recondition cock pit compassRebuilt Windless motor

Sanibel 18 Sailboat

Inglewood, California

Make International Marine

Model Sanibel 18

Length 18 Feet

Wonderful Pocket Cruising Sailboat Easy to Launch beach-able Sleeps 4 spacious cockpit Premium Blue Water Lay-up Cloud White Hull and Deck Composite High Performance Kick-up Beaching Rudder Porta-Potti Screened Opening Ports (2 pair) Screened Forward Hatch Fabric Covered Cabin Cushions Stainless Steel Bow Pulpit Stainless Steel Transom Boarding Ladder Stainless Steel Cleats and Chocks Aluminum Backing Plate for Engine Adjustable Motor Mount Mast Raising System (allows a single person to step and raise the mast) Trailer – Included Galvanized Baja Trailer Trailer Tongue Jack with Wheel Trailer Guides and Mast Crutch Sails and Handling Equipment – Included 6 Oz White Mainsail with One Set of Reef Points 6 Oz White 110 % Lapper Jib On Boom Jiffy Reefing System Boom Vang Mast Topping Lift Backstay 12 Volt Electrical System – Included Bow and Stern Running Lights with Panel Cabin Interior Dome Light Masthead Combo Anchor/Steaming Light Marine Battery Box Optional Items can be offered factory installed

Crusing Catamaran Sailboat

Slidell, Louisiana

Make Fountaine Pajot

Length 38.5

Cha Ching is a very well maintained and upgraded cruising catamaran. She sails fast and points to wind better than most catamarans. The large centrally located helm station allows for visibility at all four corners of the vessel, and features two entrances to the salon. The galley up configuration and ample 6 seat dining table makes entertaining fun for everyone. This fine vessel is offered at $165,000, which is significantly less than the last appraised value (appraisal available upon request). Owner has purchased a new catamaran and is motivated to sell. Bring all offers! Reliable low cost delivery of vessel by licensed captain available. DIMENSIONS: LOA- 38.5 ft. BEAM- 21 ft. DRAFT- 4’2 MAST HEIGHT- 58.5 ft. MANUFACTURER: Fountaine Pajot 1990, Model- Fiji NUMBER OF CABINS: 4 (2 Heads with showers) TANKAGE: Fuel- 55 gallons upgraded stainless tanks, Water- 120 gallons main tank, 45 gallons reserve (aluminum). Two holding tanks with macerator pumps (one each hull). ENGINES: 2 Inboard Diesel- Volvo Penta, Model- 2002 Approximately 1500 hours each TENDER: 12 foot AB hard bottom inflatable with 15 HP Evinrude (2 stroke) ELECTRONICS: All new Garmin Electronics in 2014 including Garmin 546-S Chart Plotter with blue chart chips, GMI-10 (one at nav station and 3 at helm), GHC 10 autopilot with GHC10 wireless remote, Standard Horizon VHF with DSC connected to GPS at nav station, with Ram 3 microphone at helm, ICOM M802 Single Sideband Radio, JRC 1500 MK II Radar, West Marine Submersible hand held VHF radio, Pioneer DH 2200 UB with Ipod and Iphone connectivity. MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL: Pressurized hot and cold water to heads and galley. Hot water produced from heat exchanger on Stbd. Engine. Hot and cold shower on transom at cockpit. Fully air conditioned with Cruiseair STX-16 (16,000 BTU reverse cycle unit new in 2012) and one 6000 BTU unit in each hull. House Batteries- 8- 6 volt golf cart batteries new in 2015, and one starting battery 12v new in 2015. All LED nav lights installed 2014. Halogen salon lights replaced with LED lights, courtesy rope lights for “mood lighting”. 2 automatic and manual electric bilge pumps, one manual bilge pump in cockpit. 6 solar panels mounted on bimini with charge controller, Kiss wind generator on davits. Set up for water maker under Stb. forward berth with electrical and plumbing connections installed. New Barber Adler refrigerator (new compressor installed 2015) and Engle refrigerator/freezer in Port forward cabin. New 2000 watt charger inverter installed in 2014 with AC outlets in each cabin, head, galley, and nav station. ENO brand Propane 3 burner stove and propane grill at transom. Yamaha 3200 EFI gas generator powers AC system. DECK AND SAILING EQUIPMENT: Fractional rig aluminum Z-Spar mast and boom, with 3 Lewmar winches at mast base. Mainsail new in 2010 (heavy cruising main with 3 reefing positions). Boom vang installed 2010. Genoa on roller reefing with UV protective canvass and padeyes for downwind sailing. 2 large Lewmar 45 winches at cockpit and 2 smaller Lewmar winches for traveler. 65 lb. CQR anchor on crossbeam roller with 200 foot 5/8” chain rhode. Goiot electric windlass. Large plow anchor with 100’ chain and rope rhode, and one mud anchor. 6 aluminum mooring cleats. Crossbeam reinforced and compression post added in 2012. Dinghy on stainless davits with stainless steel chain, anchor, etc. Fully enclosed cockpit with custom canvass enclosure that allows for operation of vessel while deployed (with spare set of new forward dodger windows) ADDITONAL NOTES: This vessel has sailed all over the Caribbean and proven herself more than capable for longer offshore bluewater cruising. The boat is equipped with spares like fresh water pump, engine parts (alternator and starter motor, impellers, gaskets, relays, etc.). Other amenities like custom made sunscreen that fits over the entire bow and salon of vessel is included. The vessel recently had all bottom paint removed by soda blasting and new epoxy barrier coat installed along with new Trinidad SR bottom paint (high copper content). The large roomy cockpit comes equipped with 2 large storage lockers, and newly varnished teak benches and drain boards. Aft of the cockpit is a 2 foot varnished teak dinghy dock with plenty of room for generator, large cooler and space for shower and rinsing snorkel equipment. All bilges were sanded and repainted in 2014. New holding tanks and macerator pumps installed 2015. The boat comes with a newly certified 6 person valise life raft which was purchased in 2012. You must see this vessel in person to fully appreciate the level of maintenance and upgrades that have been done to this boat. She is truly ready to sail away.

1998 MURRAY 33 SAILBOAT

Omaha, Nebraska

1998 Murray 33. 33 ft Ted Brewer designed cruising Cat Ketch Steel Hull with 2 unstayed 50ft carbon fiber masts, fully battened sails. Professionally finished, 28 HP Volvo diesel, isolation transformer, 1500 Watt inverter, 30A battery charger, high output 120A alternator with 3 stage regulator, Propane stove w. Oven, Propane sniffer, 2 external 20lb Propane tanks, Microwave, 12V fridge freezer, Lavac head, VHF, Stereo w. 10CD changer, GPS, Autohelm, Raymarine A57D Depthfinder GPS Chartplotter with all Canadian Charts, Radar, 200W solar panels, Watermaker, 1 fresh and 1 saltwater pressure pump, 1 electric and 1 manual bilge pump, macerator pump for pumpout, bilge alarm, 3 solar vents 24 hr. type SS Davits, SS Bow & Stern pulpits, SS bow roller, SS Stanchions and lifelines, 2 aluminum boom vangs, 3 Anchors Delta, Bruce, Danforth , Parachute anchor, Muir Cheetah electric windlass, Pedestal Steering, Laptop hookup to GPS, 17in remote LCD colour display in cockpit, 2 self tailing Anderson F405T winches, Hard Fiberglass Dodger, Sunbrella Bimini, cockpit cushions, complete cockpit enclosure, Leecloths, SS Boarding Ladder. Commissioned in 1998. Sailed in Lake Ontario only. Loc’n: Lake Ontario, Whitby, ON

Traditional Beetle Cat Sailboat

Rochester, Massachusetts

Traditional beetle cat sailboat. Hull number 1024 which means it is from the late sixties. Made of wood and in very good shape. Hull has been refastened with stainless steel in the recent past. Needs new canvas and some deck repair. There was a hole in one plank and a Dutchman repair was started. It needs the new piece installed. I cannot stress what good shape the hull is in. I would keep it but I need the room. Some hardware and centerboard included. Willing to negotiate.

2004 Bavaria 49 sailboat

Christiansted, US Virgin Islands

Make Bavaria

Category Sloop Sailboats

Length 49.0

This is an excellant vessel ready to sail the world ,never a charterboat,US Documented ,long range fuel and equipment,sailed from the Med to the Caribbean,this is a divorce sale but not a giveaway,just a good deal. Recently surveyed at $240,000Please contact me any additional information and for full picture gallery of vessel Thanks Specs Builder: Bavaria Flag of Registry: United States Hull Shape: Monohull Dimensions LOA: 49 ft 0 in Beam: 14 ft 9 in LWL: 42 ft 6 in Maximum Draft: 6 ft 6 in Engines Total Power: 75 HP Engine 1: Engine Brand: Volvo Engine Model: TMD 22 Engine/Fuel Type: Diesel Engine Power: 75 HP Cruising Speed: 7 knots @ 2000 RPM Maximum Speed: 8 knots Tanks Fresh Water Tanks: 2 (150 Gallons) Fuel Tanks: 2 Stainless steel (185 Gallons) Holding Tanks: 1 (40 Gallons) Accommodations Number of cabins: 3 Number of heads: 3 Vessel Walkthrough (3 Cabin / 3 Head) Starting in the forward master cabin, most forward is a centerline queen berth with extra seating to port and starboard, aft followed by hanging lockers. The ensuite head has the toilet and shower to port and the hand basin and vanity to starboard. Aft of the forward cabin is the main salon. The port side dining area includes a C shaped settee with loveseat inboard to maximize the seating capacity around the dining table. There are shelved units above the settee outboard. Opposite the dining area is the U shaped galley to starboard. Forward in the galley is the fridge/freezer unit followed by the stove and the double sinks are aft. There are cupboards above the countertop. Aft of the galley is the forward facing navigation station with separate seating. A Shelved unit and cupboard are above the chart table in the navigation station. Aft of the dining area to port an aft head. This head has the shower area forward followed by the sink basin outboard and the toilet facing inboard aft. Opposite the companion way to starboard is an additional aft head. This head has the shower area and sink basin most forward followed by the forward facing toilet. Two mirrored aft cabins with double berths have hanging lockers forward of the bed followed by single settees outboard. Galley & Water Systems (3) Jabsco manual heads (3) Interior showers, (1) with separate stall Deck shower Double stainless steel sinks 12v Isotherm refrigerator/freezer Corian countertop Pressurized fresh water Manual fresh water Water heater Electrical Systems (5) Full River 105 house batteries 105 amps hrs (2012) 110v or 220v Outback 2812 remote mate inverter Shore power cord Full River 105 engine battery with 105 amp hrs(2012) Kyocera 130 solar panels (2007) with Blue Sky solar controller Outback battery charger Electronics & Navigation Raymarine 60 with Lewmar drive autopilot Raymarine C30 chartplotter (2006) Standard VHF radio Dual compasses Aquatics stereo speakers Raymarine ST60 depth sounder with speed and distance logs Raymarine ST60 Wind direction and speed indicator and rudder angle indicator Aquatics stereo Sylvania television Sails & Rigging Selden aluminum mast with in mast furling. Stepped on deck Boom vang Spinnaker pole Roller furler for main Harkin winches Elvstrom furling genoa (very good condition) Second Elvstrom furling genoa (good condition) 1 x 19 Stainless steel wire standing rigging Manual back stay adjuster Mainsheet traveler Reaching strut Roller furler for genoa Doyle Main sail furling excellent condition (2008) Deck & Hull Deck awning 44lbs Delta primary anchor with 150’ chain (2008) Bow anchor roller Bimini top Cockpit awning Life jackets Propane tank Fenders & dock lines Scoop swim platform Vented propane locker Carib dinghy (2006) Viking life raft (2006) Danforth secondary anchor Side stanchions & lifelines Dodger Cockpit table Life ring Life sling Navigation and spreader lights Swim ladder Vetus anchor windlass 4 HP Yamaha outboard engine (2009) Mechanical Equipment One Electric Johnson bilge pump Propane shut off Emergency tiller Crusair 16000 Air conditioner USCG safety package Lewmar Manual steering wheel Bronze feathering propeller Bow thruster Fire extinguisher Raw water sea strainer Halon fire extinguishing Fuel shut off Engine alarms Fresh water cooling Excellent engine long range fuel

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2022 Glen L classic runabout

Fort Lauderdale, FL

2012 SeaArk 2072

Orange Springs, FL

1981 Cobalt Boats Condesa 232

Kansas City, MO

2007 Four Winns 358 Vista

2004 Sea Ray 270 Sundeck

Phoenix, AZ

2019 MasterCraft X-24

Kimberling City, MO

2015 Boston Whaler 240 Dauntless

New Orleans, LA

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