model yacht vane steering gear

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BRAINE AND VANE STEERING

Two sheets showing full working drawings for a variety of steering and sail control devices for vintage restored and replica yachts of all types.Most diagrams are fully dimensioned for reproduction by competent model makers.Designed by G W Clark.

SAVE 10% on Selected Plans!

£ 17.00 £ 15.30

Specification

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Featured in July 2001 Marine Modelling International

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Vanes and the Sliding Rig

by A. R. Lassell

On Sailing with Vane and Sliding Rig

A Lassel sliding rig, with the running rigging in color. The main sheet is in red and the jib sheet is in blue . The bowsers were spring clips that slid on the center rod. There was a fairlead on the mast step for the main sheet. The jib sheet had a “vernier” bowser on the very front.

We assume that your model yacht is equipped with vane steering gear and sliding rig, on which the sheets are rove [threaded — Ed.] so that one bowser simultaneously controls the set of the two sails. That bowser has been called the “Synchronous Bowser.” The standing parts of the sheets are sliding with the rig and are attached to either a jamming ring or an adjustment bowser. The main sheet is single-rove, but the jib-sheet is double-rove through a fairleader approximately half the distance to its jib-tack swivel as compared with the corresponding elements of the main sail, which results in both the boom and the club maintaining about the same angular speed as the synchronous bowser is being moved.

The major axis of the pond is assumed to be parallel to the wind, and that we experience a beat to windward at the onset of our adventure in sailing. So, we proceed to set the yacht to sail close-hauled.

Our immediate attention is to set the two sails in a definite relation to each other. The ever-present measuring means, finger-breadth, is used so as to improve on mere guessing. We haul in on the synchronous bowser snug, bringing the boom in about midships, and ease up on the jib sheet adjustment so that there is a space equal to three fingerbreadths between the mast and the clew of the jib, in the case of an “M;” for a “X,” four units and for an “A” more commesurably with the length of its club. This set would be suitable for a 14-mile wind; in stronger winds, haul the synchronous bowser tight, not just snug. In lighter winds, ease up on the bowser in steps corresponding to the gradual decrease so, that in drifting zephyrs, the bowser has moved an inch from its original place.

If the yacht would then be picked up and headed into the wind, the sails should begin to luff at the same time. Preferably, the jib should luff before the main, and, particularly, its upper corner, the head, should have its belly deflated in the first stage of luffing. To maintain that deflation is the ideal of steering; it is the consumamation of the skills in design and yachtsmanship; it is the best possible index of your proficiency. Watch that index!

A parallel aboard a full-rigged ship, as a guide for the helmsman, is the action of the wind at the weather corner of the mizzen royal (the topmost sail on the aftmost mast). The yards are braced around in a high-pitched spiral, so that the higher the sail, the earlier it luffs upon the ship heading into the wind. The helmsman keeps that corner deflated, no more, no less, and days on end, in the South-East Tradewinds, where the winds are constant.

Not blessed with such winds on our ponds, we have to put up with up-drafts and down-drafts. To preserve his assurance, the skipper must evaluate the vagaries of a down-draft realistically. If such a jet is being funnelled down to the surface of the pond, it ruffles up and darkens the pond’s surface, and fans out. Thus if two yachts are sailing in the same lane but some feet apart [and] encounter such a [flow] centering between them, the leader will head up and the other will pay off with reference to the course sailed the moment before. So, that [incident] was just one of those things, and there is no need for new sails, fuller garboards, smaller skeg, or larger rudder.

A detailed drawing of a Lassell sliding rig for the M class “Sun Kiss.” The nearside side horse is not shown. All rods are 1/8-in stainless except for the side horses, which are 3/16. Click on the picture for a (much) larger view. It will come up in most browsers as a blank screen. Don’t panic, just slide the window around until you start finding parts of the drawing.

The next thing to come to our attention is the sliding rig. It is an adjunct to the vane steering gear, which, by no means, all-sufficient. The rig is set to correspond to the lightest wind on the windward board [lap — Ed.] With an increase in the wind, the rig is moved ahead, and the spaces traversed in sympathy with the wind resemble the D-scale of a sliderule [i.e., decrease logarithmic scale — Ed.] The seven-inch scope allotted is rarely enough, the idea being that went the forward end has been reached, it is time to reduce the main sail. Should the rig lack scope in the aftermost position, lee helm must be used, but such an expediency is only justified to [compensate for] this limited deficiency. Lack of scope in the foremost position calls for stepping the jib farther ahead, or, as a last resort, for the sheeting in on this sail for the purpose of tipping the center of effort ahead; in other words: “choking her to death.” However, the sensible thing to do would be to start reefing the main. Equally sensible, perhaps, would be the striking of the jib instead of using lee helm in a drifting match.

The sliding rig affords a quick means of “tuning up,” and re-tuning to conform to the wind changes. The skipper should develop a built in aerometer [wind speed indicator — Ed.] behind his eyes; it gives him assurance. If the jib, by shaking too frequently, announces that the yacht is trying to lie to close to the wind, slide the rig ahead half an inch or so; if it stays “asleep,” slide the rig aft until an occasional deflation takes place.

As our system of sailing has been outlined, it differs from the usual “toyboat sailing” in as much as in this case the jib sheeted so as to tip the center of effort either ahead or aft. This system, although having limited merit, fails when the strength of of the wind requires sheeting the jib flat amidships and, often, easing up on the main. The spectacle, here, is an excessive heel, no snap, and an inordinate induced drag caused by side-slipping.

The Lassel vane with parts marked.

Next the vane has to be set. The self-tacking gear is assumed. It has five “triggers:” the Locking Latch, the Plunger, the Symmetry Adjustment, the Cams, and the Tension Slide on the oscillator arm. [All parts mentioned in this essay are amarked on the accompanying illustration — Ed.]

The latch either locks the “Seattle Bar” (the combined friction clutch and oscillator bracket) to the vane-disc or to the vane-frame. The latch, down and locked to the disc, aligns the Seattle Bar ideally with the center-plane of the yacht and allows the flip-flop of the feather assembly, sot that the leading edge of the feather may look into the wind’s eye over either bow without manual intervention. This ability of the gear to set itself as the yacht is tacked justifies the designation, self-tacking vane.

The latch, hinged up and straddling the lug on the feather frame, locks the latter to the Seattle Bar, which, through its friction clutch, transmits the torque from the feather to the vane-arm. That expediency is used in sailing all courses other than lying close; even preferable in sailing full and by. [On a broad reach, that is, across the wind — Ed.]

The latch, hinged up without straddling the lug, is used in effecting a “quick gye.” In a gye, the yacht heaves about without direct help from her handlers. The procedure is to raise the latch, before turning the yacht about, so that the flip flop of the feather is impeded in its full-amplitude travel, then the yacht is put about low in the wind so that she may gain momentum ample for the maneuver. The quick or short guy will give the yacht eight or ten feet of offing, which may enable the yacht to fetch the finishing line without sailing the width of the pond.

In the middle of the Seattle Bar, there is a screw adjustment that actuates the Plunger. The purpose of it is [to provide] a means of controlling the angular scope in the two and fro movement of the feather frame. At its widest amplitude, the angle is a bit less than 45 degrees on each side of center. Since the apparent wind over the deck has a lesster angle of incidence, the wide amplitude set produces weather helm normally. That’s how it should be, for the need of weather helm means that the center of effort is aft enough to allow the yacht to coast through a dead spot with a reduced chance of yawing (wandering off to leeward). In this situation: no wind and therefore no torque on the tiller; none need since the center of effort takes over the steering.

In order to produce less weather helm, neutral- and finally, lee-helm, the plunger is moved out by backing up on the adjustment screw. If the winds over our ponds were as constant as the South-East Tradewinds, neutral helm would be the thing, and lee helm sailing would the additional charm of a way of checating the sail-area limitation, for the feather, then, would be acting as an unmeasured mizzen sail. When the center of effort is too far forward, lee helm must be used to make the yacht head up. In the absence of steerage way, the yacht can’t head up; the misplaced center of effort takes charge, and she yaws. The vane given control again, she slams into the wind and completes the cycle of aberration by losing steerage once more.

Not much is known of a recommendable minimum angle of seting the vane in close-hauled sailing. However, one certain yacht, using lee helm at a 30 degree vane setting, always lost her race as she paid off in an updraft, while her competitor held her course. Another one, with extreme lee helm (11 degrees), in similar situation, failed to get back on her course for lack of space. Prudence, therefore, would suggest a 3-point (33 degree) minimum.

The symmetry adjustment is provided as a means of making the yacht point equally on both tacks. The sure way of gauging this equality is by observing the lifting of the jib. “Lifting” is the sea-going expression for the deflation mentioned before. The procedure is: if she is sailing low on the wind while on the starboard tack, as compared with lying on port, turn the adjustment screw left-handedly; low on port, righthandedly. Two turns, if the difference is obvious.

After we have achieved symmetry, occasion might arise when a lopsidedness is desirable. Ability to point higher on one tack than the other is brought about by means of the proper Cam, [Check the caption under the drawing on the issue of the Cams — Ed.] on the plunger, being rotated so as to restrict the amplitude of the oscillator to leeward of the outbound tack. Used for gying; particularly, in slowing up the quick gye. Its efficacy, limited.

The Tension Slide on the oscillator functions as a means of attaching one end of one or more rubber bands and of adjusting the tension of these so that, when the inertia of the counterweight becomes disturbed, the elasticity of the rubber causes the yacht to heave about. A heading puff, a wave, or a “dead spot” can be the triggering agent. In the use of this “long gye,” there is always an element of suspense, and the skipper who converts 100 per cent is a wizard. But such wizardry is not dependent on the skipper alone; the yacht has to be designed for it, but MYRAA does not permit recessive leading edges of keels. [Lassel here is referrring to the “non-prognauthous” keel clause of the M Class rules, which forbade any lower part of the keel being ahead of any upper part. In his experiments, Lassel had devised what he called the “finless fin keel,” (see the illustration in the history section) which was much more maneuverable than the traditional fin and skeg mandated by the rules. The restriction was lifted by the AMYA, but is part of the Vintage M Class rules.]

We assume now that the windward passage has been made. The return trip will be done with the latch straddling the locking lug, and with the resulting locked complex rotated so that the leading edge of the feather looks into the wind’s eye 180 degrees from the position that brought the yacht to windward. That generalization does not pertain if the yacht had been tacked, for the new position would be 180 degrees from the [median] of the tacking positions, namely, directly or nearly above the vane-arm. Neither does it pertain to exactitude of any course to be steered, for an “overtrim” is needed, and this depends on the yacht’s behavior characteristics in variations of the wind strength. As a rule, the stronger the wind, the more overtrim.

The vane-disc is calibrated like a compass card. The total number of marks or points is 32; eight to a quadrant. For our purpose, the quadrants must be named, and the designations might just as well be derived from the general course sailed when the latch is over the quadrant. Thus, the latch over the port forward quadrant would be: Port Broad Reach. To this should be added the number of points, counted from the forward center of the disc. As an example: five points, port broad reach. Under certain wind conditions, that would be the setting for a return trip after the yacht had fetched the turning line while lying close on port tack and without having tacked. Four of these points represent the ideal 180 degrees, and the fifth, the overtrim.

The term “on the port tack” means that, if the mainsail were a square sail, it would be necessary to hold down the lower weather corner by means of a tackle on the port bulwarks, when the wind was coming over the port bow. In our specific situation, the boom would be over the starboard counter, and the latch of he vane, theoretically or actually, over [the] “Starboard Close Reach” quadrant. A theoretical 3 1/2 points for close hauled, if the latch were down in the recess; actual 4 points for full and by, and 4 to eight points for close reach, with the latch up.

The sailing at certain angles with the wind, other than lying close, we shall call “sailing courses,” and forget that the term connotes compass courses. For the sake of preserving his poise, the skipper should know how to sail, both in light and heavy going, certain fundamental courses like full and by, wind abeam, the reverse of lying close, and directly before the wind.

For instance, he can expect to have set the vane at 6 1/2 points, close reach, to sail wind abeam in light airs, while 8 points would be indicated in a 20-mile wind. Directly before the wind, if the boom is out on starboard side, one or two points on port broad reach would be the setting. In this case, the kicking strap on the boom should be hooked over to starboard to prevent unauthorized jibing. Should she jibe, her new course would be at least three points off he attempted course.

How are the sails to be set? So that the sails don’t spill the wind, on the yacht getting two points off her course. That, on broad reaching and running. If the skipper must gamble, a full spinnaker gives him that opportunity, otherwise, a flat one is suggested, for it is easier to keep filled.

In order to correct the steering on the leeward board, “Squeeze her to you” is a simple rule to follow. “Her” refers to the feather-bar complex, and “squeeze” to its rotation toward the lee shore and “too you,” in an assumed position abaft the vane. A squeeze amounting to one point is rarely enough, even if the angle of approach was sharp; it is supposed to be a result of the venturi-effect.

The writer was commissioned to write concise instructions without using salty terms. Consiseness does not mean brevity, but implies an unadorned treatment of important points. All arts and sciences have their own terminologies; yachtmanship can’t get along without its.

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Vane Steering

N o less an authority than Don Street claims the first vane steering appeared in the 1930s on model sailboats such as ply the ponds of Central Park. In his 1973 classic, The Ocean Sailing Yacht , Street writes that not until 1955 was vane steering fitted on yachts in the servo-pendulum form invented by Colonel H.D. “Blondie” Hasler, who, Street writes, “should probably be regarded as the father of the vane self-steering gear.”  

There are two fundamental types of vane self-steering, servo-pendulum and auxiliary rudder. In servo-pendulum steering, a windvane links to a paddle immersed in the water. When the yacht veers off course, the windvane deflects and causes the paddle to swerve to one side. The substantial pressure of the water acting on the paddle is transmitted via linkages to lines attached to the wheel or tiller, thus using the ship’s rudder to correct the course. Examples of servo-pendulum self-steering include the Aries, Monitor, several of the Windpilot models and the Cape Horn; there are others as well.

Auxiliary rudder systems use a windvane to turn a separate rudder perhaps a quarter the size of the main rudder. The auxiliary rudder itself steers the yacht, with the wheel or tiller tied off. Hydrovane is the best-known brand of this type, but the Windpilot Pacific Plus also uses an auxiliary rudder.  

Proponents of servo-pendulum gears assert that an auxiliary rudder may be inadequate to keep the boat on course in high winds—that there is no better way to steer a yacht in a gale than with its own rudder. They also claim an auxiliary rudder is prone to damage (to the vane gear or even the transom) if it snags a line, and the auxiliary rudder impedes maneuvering in tight quarters.

Auxiliary rudder fans assert that the separate rudder provides an invaluable back-up steering system because the main steering is locked off, so the considerable wear an ocean passage imposes on steering gear is eliminated, and the system avoids inconvenient lines crossing the cockpit to the wheel.

A visit to the websites and forums shows that each of these points can be argued and counter-argued. Each established vane steering brand has fervent loyalists, each fan avowing that the (fill in the blank) steering system is the best gear I ever bought, it steered us through a ferocious storm,” etc. Brand loyalty aside, plainly, vane steering technology is now highly evolved, to the benefit of the modern blue water sailor.

Many sailors considering vane steering may be persuaded by the prevalence of Hydrovanes in the 2022 Golden Globe race, nonstop around the world via the Southern Ocean. Twelve of the 16 entrants chose Hydrovane, while two fitted Aries servo-pendulum gears and two the Windpilot, also a servo-pendulum.  

In general, vane steering gear functioned well in this brutal test. Simon Curwen dropped out of the Golden Globe when the top mounting of his Hydrovane sheared off in a vicious knockdown. (Hydrovane told me this component had previously failed only in collisions, but in an abundance of caution, “We have since beefed up that casting.”) A bushing on Pat Lawless’s Aries gear failed and could not be repaired at sea.  

The shaft of Damien Guillou’s Hydrovane fractured just above the rudder, a failure the race committee determined, after investigation, was caused by Damien’s having modified the shaft with two additional 7 mm holes (see the report at https://goldengloberace.com/golden-globe-race-windvane-safety-and-ggr-2026-open-for-entries). Ian Herbert-Jones’ drogue warp snagged the Hydrovane Rudder, and the resulting damage eventually caused the rudder to break in half. He anchored, found no other noticeable damage to the Hydrovane, put on his spare rudder and continued—only to lose his boat in a South Atlantic storm. 

Race winner Kirsten Neuschäfer told me she chose Hydrovane for her 36-foot Cape George Cutter because of its reputation, but also because the Hydrovane is mechanically simpler than a servo-pendulum gear, with fewer parts to monitor or fail. She was happy with the choice. “The combination of the long keel and Hydrovane really worked great,” Kirsten said. The gear steered the yacht well in massive seas and winds gusting over 60 knots. At one point, “We took a really huge wave over the stern,” and the Hydrovane rudder was shoved hard to the side. The shaft clamps slipped, temporarily putting the Hydrovane rudder out of alignment with the control head but also, Kirsten believes, saving the gear because the system gave rather than broke.

Kirsten used the Hydrovane successfully while heaving-to, setting the vane so that it tried to steer her yacht into the wind. With the wheel locked off and the yacht abeam to the gale, the vane itself lay right over, which she believed tended to protect the Hydrovane rudder as the yacht surged, the effect of which was to steady the yacht and to keep her on the desired heading relative to wind and seas.  

For Kirsten, one Hydrovane feature stood out. With a servo-pendulum gear, the rudder is tied into the vane system via lines to the wheel, so it is not possible to shift quickly from vane steering to hand steering and back again.   Because the Hydrovane is entirely independent of the yacht’s wheel and rudder, one may, in heavy weather, stay at the wheel and allow the Hydrovane to steer, but when necessary override the Hydrovane by turning the wheel. In bad weather, Kirsten found this technique invaluable.

I had the same experience. Toward the end of my 2023 double-handed transatlantic on Far and Away , our Cabo Rico 34, we encountered a gale. Running in 40 knots and big seas, the Hydrovane seemed capable of safely steering Far and Away and did so hour after hour. However, given the conditions, one of us generally stayed at the wheel, and when an especially awkward sea reared up astern, we used the wheel to ease the yacht’s way. In those instances, we left the wheel brake on, steered the yacht over the brake, and when the dicey moment had passed, put the wheel back in the sweet spot and sat back. The yacht’s rudder will without difficulty overpower the Hydrovane rudder, so there was no need to de-clutch the Hydrovane. It was easy to do, the result was easier on the yacht and her crew, and, as Kirsten found, even if one must stay at the wheel, it is so much less taxing in heavy weather to steer now and again for a few moments than it is to steer continuously for a long watch.  

When we bought Far and Away , she was equipped with a Raymarine autopilot fitted with a powerful linear drive mounted to its own rudder quadrant. It’s a proper setup and serves us well, but we cherish the autopilot for its ability to ease dull hours of motoring, and I had no intention of wearing it out on an ocean voyage. We wanted vane steering. I did my research and settled on the Hydrovane. It was proven, fairly simple, did not clutter the cockpit with steering lines and gave us a spare rudder to boot.  

Installation was easy enough, although detailed planning was required to make sure there was no interference with either the centerline swim ladder or with components inside the transom. We went with the single-strut E bracket for the lower support and a hinged H bracket for the upper support, which means the system is secured to the hull by just four 10mm bolts, two to each bracket. Such an installation must be perfect, and we made several mockups to get there. Hydrovane is adamant that the bolts and their backing plates intersect at right angles, which on our boat required placing the backing plates (we used 5/16-inch aluminum) on a thick pad of epoxy, and likewise beveling and shaping the pads through which the foundation castings bolt to the transom.  

Based on my experience, the Hydrovane is perfectly suited to a moderately sized, full-keel boat with the rudder mounted far aft, which, like Kirsten Neuschäfer’s Minnehaha , is Far and Away ’s configuration. It is also proven to work well in other well-balanced designs, including in boats larger than ours and in those with fin keels and separate rudders. But with some yacht designs, even in some full-keel designs or in larger yachts, the Hydrovane may not do as well. Considering the high percentage of yachts using Hydrovanes in the 2022 Golden Globe race, it is worth bearing in mind that no entrant was over 36 feet long overall.

A friend of mine has a 38-foot, 19,000-pound Aage Nielson design, a beautiful, full-keel yacht with a cut-away forefoot and the rudder mounted on the trailing edge of the keel, but fairly far forward. He reports his Hydrovane worked well on any sort of reach, but while running, the yacht would at unpredictable intervals veer deeply, despite the Hydrovane rudder being at full deflection, straining so mightily to correct the course that the owner worried about mechanical failure. Eventually, this highly experienced sailor removed the Hydrovane from the boat.

One Valiant 42 owner wrote to me that he loved the Hydrovane, but even Hydrovane’s optional stubby vane bumped his solar arch. More critically, he believed the auxiliary rudder was inadequate for the Valiant 42’s big hull, and “the Hydrovane seems [to allow the boat] to wander significantly when in use.” He shifted to the Monitor servo-pendulum type and that has been satisfactory.  

Another sailor has owned three yachts, two with servo-pendulum systems and the third, his Golden Wave 42, with a Hydrovane. This owner wrote to me, “All great, but as wind came abaft the beam, wandered. None good downwind.”  

Because the Hydrovane rudder is a fraction of the size of a yacht’s rudder, the greater forces imposed by a larger, faster yacht may not allow the auxiliary rudder to steer a good course. Hydrovane says as much on its website: “In each case for heavy boats, the customer must help gauge the suitability. The Hydrovane’s steering power diminishes as the size of the boat increases and is challenged at higher boat speeds starting at perhaps 10 to 12 knots.”  

Several years ago, I was crew on a 60-foot staysail schooner when, running in 40 knots of wind with 10 knots of boat speed and a building sea, the plainly overpowered Hydrovane allowed us to broach. There are those who believe the Aries, Monitor or another servo-pendulum type using the yacht’s rudder to steer is better suited to a big, heavy yacht, especially in gale conditions.

But while the “best” model of vane steering is debated and is, in my opinion, a matter of the yacht type, among serious cruisers, the value of vane steering is without dispute. On Far and Away , we’ve had vane steering for three years, and it has transformed our cruising. Double-handed passages, even ocean crossings, are not only do-able but a pleasure.  

The vane has made me a better sailor by forcing me to take care to keep the yacht in balance and by telling me emphatically when I have failed. If you are on the fence about vane steering, do your research, talk to owners of similar boats about their experiences with various vane models and take the plunge. The brand name systems, whether Aries, Monitor, Windpilot, Hydrovane or another, are all proven good, and all have their zealous fans, but before you install your system, you must, as best as you can, ensure that it is a good match for your yacht.  

Then you can go anywhere. 

Nico Walsh is an admiralty attorney living in Freeport, Maine. A former Coast Guard officer, merchant mariner and commercial fisherman, Nico has been sailing for five decades. He and his wife Ellen cruise extensively on Far and Away , their Cabo Rico 34.

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vane self-steering gear

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A method by which the wind, acting on a rotatable vane linked to a rudder, can be set to steer a sailing yacht on a given course. This principle of wind-vane-operated gear was introduced in the mid-1920s to control model racing yachts while sailing downwind. Known as the Braine gear, after the name of its inventor, it proved highly effective, and in the model-yacht-racing world quickly superseded the older hit-and-miss contrivances with weights and springs then in use.

It was first applied to full-sized yachts about 1948. The gear comprised an upright metal or hardboard vane, like a small sail, mounted on a freely turning swivel plate. With the vane adjusted like a weathercock to the wind relative to the desired course, and connected by means of rods and linkage to a servo-tab on the yacht's rudder, or to a separate small rudder mounted right aft, the yacht is made to keep her course whether close hauled, or with the wind abeam, or with a following wind.

These self-steering gears, which are manufactured in a variety of types and sizes, have been widely used by ocean-going yachtsmen, particularly when cruising short handed or solo. See also steering gear.

From:   vane self-steering gear   in  The Oxford Companion to Ships and the Sea »

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Wind Vane Self Steering: The Ultimate Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 20, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer: wind vane self steering

Wind vane self steering is a mechanical device used on sailboats to maintain a desired course without the need for continuous manual adjustment. It utilizes the force of the wind and a vertical axis to steer the boat by adjusting the position of the rudder.

How Wind Vane Self Steering Works: A Comprehensive Guide

Title: How Wind Vane Self-Steering Works: A Comprehensive Guide to Sailboat Autonomy

Introduction: Sailing is the epitome of freedom, embracing the unpredictable elements as we navigate vast oceans. However, when embarking on long journeys or overnight trips, the need for reliable self-steering systems arises. Enter wind vane self-steering! In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into this ingenious system, explaining its principles and mechanics while highlighting its benefits for seafaring enthusiasts. So hoist your sails and embark on a journey of knowledge as we unravel the inner workings of wind vane self-steering.

Chapter 1: The Basics of Wind Vane Self-Steering 1.1 Understanding Sailboats’ Balancing Act: – Explaining the importance of maintaining equilibrium between the sail and rudder configurations. – Highlighting challenges faced when manually helming during long passages.

1.2 Introduction to Wind Vanes: – Defining the wind vane as an autonomous steering mechanism driven by apparent wind direction. – Detailing their various components such as vanes, sensors, gears, and linkages.

Chapter 2: Principles Behind Wind Vanes 2.1 Apparent vs True Wind: – Unveiling the distinction between apparent and true wind direction. – Describing how wind vanes utilize apparent wind to adjust course.

2.2 Weight vs Force Systems: – Distinguishing weight-driven systems (servo pendulum) from force-driven ones (auxiliary rudder). – Discussing pros and cons of each system in different sailing conditions.

Chapter 3: Mechanics of Wind Vane Self-Steering 3.1 Servo Pendulum System: – Unveiling the engineering marvels behind servo pendulum systems. – Analyzing their interaction with changing winds and seas.

3.2 Auxiliary Rudder Systems: – Detailing the mechanism of auxiliary rudder systems, their hydrodynamics, and adjustability. – Discussing how they maintain sailboat course while minimizing yaw.

Chapter 4: Installation and Utilization Tips 4.1 Installing Wind Vanes on Different Sailboats: – Providing step-by-step instructions for mounting wind vanes. – Highlighting considerations for various boat designs and sizes.

4.2 Calibration and Fine-Tuning: – Elaborating on the importance of accurate calibration to ensure precise steering. – Offering pro tips to optimize performance under different sailing conditions.

Chapter 5: Advantages and Limitations 5.1 Benefits of Wind Vane Self-Steering: – Presenting the advantages of autonomy, reduced energy consumption, and enhanced safety during long-haul sailing trips.

5.2 Considerations in Complex Sailing Conditions: – Identifying limitations related to challenging weather patterns or narrow channels, necessitating manual intervention.

Conclusion – Navigating the Open Seas with Confidence: Wind vane self-steering systems revolutionize long-distance sailing by providing sailors with a reliable automated alternative to constant helming. Understanding the principles, mechanics, and installation tips outlined in this comprehensive guide will empower seafarers to navigate vast oceans with confidence, leaving them more time to revel in the beauty of their surroundings. Embrace the freedom that wind vane self-steering offers–the transformative companion for every true sailor!

Wind Vane Self Steering Explained: Step by Step Process

When it comes to sailing, one of the most essential tools for achieving steady and reliable course keeping is a wind vane self-steering system. This mechanism harnesses the power of the wind to effectively steer the vessel autonomously, ensuring sailors can enjoy a smoother and more hands-free sailing experience. In this blog post, we will delve into the step-by-step process of how wind vane self-steering works, unraveling its inner workings and highlighting its benefits.

Step 1: Understanding the Basics

Before we dive into the intricacies, let’s start with the fundamentals. A wind vane self-steering system consists of three main components: a wind vane, a linkage mechanism, and auxiliary steering gear. The wind vane acts as a sensory organ that detects changes in wind direction while transmitting these signals to the linkage mechanism. The linkage mechanism then translates those signals into appropriate movements, which are eventually transmitted to auxiliary steering gear responsible for adjusting sail trim or rudder angle.

Step 2: Wind Vane Sensitivity Adjustment

Once you’ve set up your wind vane self-steering system on board your yacht or sailboat, it’s crucial to fine-tune its sensitivity for optimal performance. By adjusting the weight distribution or adding counterweights to your wind vane, you can achieve precise responsiveness according to prevailing weather conditions. This careful calibration ensures that even subtle nuances in wind direction are accurately detected by the wind vane.

Step 3: Setting Course

Now that your system is finely tuned, it’s time to set your desired course manually using traditional methods such as compass bearings or GPS coordinates. Aligning your vessel towards this designated course provides initial guidance for your wind vane self-steerer.

Step 4: Autonomy Engaged

As soon as you activate your wind vane self-steering gear, you enable an autonomous sailor’s best friend. Once the wind vane starts detecting any deviations from your initial course, it sends signals to the linkage mechanism, instructing it to make corrections. This process ensures that your vessel automatically adjusts its heading to maintain the desired course against external factors such as wind shifts or gusts.

Step 5: Continuous Monitoring

While wind vane self-steering handles most course corrections independently, it does require regular monitoring to avoid any potential issues and make minor adjustments as needed. It is crucial to stay vigilant and keep an eye on how your self-steering system performs with changing wind conditions and other environmental factors.

Benefits of Wind Vane Self-Steering

Now that we’ve dived into the step-by-step process of wind vane self-steering, let’s explore its advantages:

1. Hands-free Sailing: With a properly calibrated and functioning wind vane self-steering system, sailors can free themselves from continuously holding the helm, affording a more relaxed sailing experience.

2. Increased Safety: Wind vane self-steering reduces fatigue in long ocean crossings by maintaining a steady course, minimizing human error risk at times when crew members might be physically exhausted.

3. Energy Efficiency: By utilizing the power of nature (the wind), a wind vane self-steerer requires no fuel consumption or electricity input for operation, making it an environmentally friendly and cost-effective solution for long-distance voyages.

In conclusion, the step-by-step process behind a wind vane self-steering system involves understanding the basics of its components, adjusting sensitivity levels, setting an initial course manually while enabling autonomy through continuous monitoring. This technology not only enhances safety but also allows sailors to enjoy hands-free sailing while embracing Mother Nature’s forces to keep their vessels on track efficiently. So why not embrace this clever innovation and sail away into effortless adventure?

Frequently Asked Questions about Wind Vane Self Steering

Frequently Asked Questions about Wind Vane Self Steering: Unlocking the Secrets to Effortless Sailing

If you’ve ever been on a sailing adventure or have spent any time around seasoned sailors, you’ve likely heard of wind vane self steering devices. These ingenious contraptions have sparked curiosity and interest among many sailing enthusiasts, but like any new concept, questions tend to arise. In this blog post, we will dive deep into the frequently asked questions surrounding wind vane self steering systems and shed light on their working principles. Get ready to unravel the science behind these mechanical marvels!

Q1: What exactly is a wind vane self-steering system?

A wind vane self-steering system is a mechanism designed to keep a sailing vessel on course without manual intervention from the helmsman. This device utilizes the power of the wind to maintain a steady heading even in challenging weather conditions. By harnessing wind pressure and utilizing specially shaped vanes, wind vane self-steering systems elegantly counterbalance forces acting on sails and rudders.

Q2: How does a wind vane self-steering system work?

The operation of a wind vane self-steering system revolves around one fundamental principle—using apparent wind angles and force to steer the boat. Typically mounted at the stern of a vessel, these systems consist of an arrow-shaped vane that reacts to changes in apparent wind direction. As the breeze shifts or fluctuates in intensity, subtle movements in the vane are transmitted via lines or linkage mechanisms to adjust the position of an auxiliary rudder at the boat’s stern.

When the boat begins deviating from its intended course due to shifting winds, turbulence, or waves, this auxiliary rudder automatically adjusts itself according to variations in apparent wind angles detected by the main vane. Consequently, as long as there is sufficient breeze available for propulsion, these systems effectively maintain precise navigation even during extended periods at sea. It’s like having an invisible helmsman tirelessly steering your vessel, allowing you to relax and enjoy the journey.

Q3: Are wind vane self-steering systems compatible with all types of boats?

Wind vane self-steering systems are highly versatile and can be installed on a wide range of sailboats. Whether you have a small, single-handed cruiser or a larger ocean-going yacht, there is likely a system that suits your vessel. The main considerations when choosing the right wind vane self-steering system for your boat include size, weight, balance, and how well it integrates with the existing rigging setup. Manufacturers provide detailed guidelines and support to ensure compatibility with various boat designs.

Q4: Can wind vane self-steering systems handle different weather conditions?

Absolutely! Wind vane self-steering systems are designed to thrive in diverse weather conditions and adapt to changing environments. Whether you’re facing calm seas or rough waters with strong winds, these remarkable devices remain stable and steadfast in their coursekeeping abilities. However, it is essential to learn about any limitations specific to the model you choose based on sailing experience and intended use.

Q5: Are wind vane self-steering systems difficult to install?

While installing a wind vane self-steering system may require some technical know-how, most reputable manufacturers provide comprehensive manuals and guidance materials tailored for DIY installations. However, if you prefer professional assistance or lack the confidence in setting it up yourself, seeking help from expert marine technicians is always an option worth considering.

In conclusion, wind vane self-steering systems offer sailors an unprecedented level of autonomy on their voyages by effortlessly maintaining course while they sit back and take in the panoramic beauty around them. Their ingenious working principles elegantly leverage wind power to navigate through uncharted waters. Embracing one of these marvels on your own sailing adventure might just be the key to unlocking new levels of sailing satisfaction. So, batten down the hatches, set your sails, and let the wind vane self-steering system be your faithful navigator on this extraordinary journey!

Mastering the Art of Wind Vane Self Steering: Tips and Techniques

For sailors navigating the vast blue oceans, wind vane self-steering systems are an invaluable tool. These impressive devices not only alleviate the stress of manual helm control but also empower sailors to sail solo or in small crews with ease. However, mastering the art of wind vane self-steering requires more than just installing the equipment – it demands practice, knowledge, and a cunning understanding of its intricacies. In this blog post, we will delve into the depths of wind vane self-steering, providing you with tips and techniques that will have you sailing like a seasoned pro.

Understanding the Basics:

To begin our journey towards mastering wind vane self-steering, let’s start by unraveling its fundamentals. A wind vane self-steering system essentially functions based on an aerodynamic principle: it utilizes changing winds to adjust your boat’s course automatically. The device consists of a wind vane mounted atop your vessel’s stern along with various lines and connections to your ship’s wheel or tiller.

1. Sail Trim is Key:

Properly adjusting your sails plays a crucial role in maximizing the efficiency of your wind vane self-steering system. Ideally, before engaging the device, ensure that your sails are appropriately trimmed for optimal performance based on existing weather conditions. Fine-tuning this aspect will allow for smoother operation and minimize any unnecessary strain on both boat and gear.

2. Get Acquainted with Your System:

Understanding how every component in your wind vane self-steering system works is vital for seamless operation. Familiarize yourself with all cables, lines, blocks, attaching points, and mechanical adjustments within your setup through careful study of instructions provided by manufacturers. Additionally, consider practicing installation and removal procedures before setting sail to save time during maintenance or repairs at sea.

3. Devise Efficient Linkages:

Connecting your wind vane to the ship’s wheel or tiller requires creating a linkage mechanism that transmits the vane’s signals accurately. Carefully select and adjust mechanical linkages, ensuring that they offer proper responsiveness and minimal play. Remember, any slack in these connections will decrease accuracy and compromise performance.

4. Experiment with Tension:

Fine-tuning the tension on your wind vane’s lines is essential for achieving optimal response. Experiment by adjusting the tension – both tightness and looseness – of these lines based on prevailing conditions such as wave heights, wind strength, course changes, or boat speeds. This flexibility allows you to adapt your wind vane self-steering system according to real-time situations and enhance its efficiency.

5. Observe Nature’s Cues:

Nature can be an exceptional teacher when it comes to utilizing wind vane self-steering systems effectively. Observing how wind shifts affect your vessel’s course during different weather patterns will help you develop a keen sense of understanding impending changes in wind direction. By balancing this observation with data from meteorological sources or barometers, you can anticipate shifts ahead of time, allowing for precise adjustments even before they happen.

6. Make Incremental Adjustments:

Once your wind vane self-steering system is activated, it is essential not to make abrupt adjustments unless absolutely necessary. Instead, opt for small incremental changes when altering course or sail trim. Gradual adaptations ensure smoother transitions without overwhelming the device with sudden demands.

7. Continuously Monitor Performance:

Constant vigilance is key while learning to master your wind vane self-steering system completely. Continuously monitor its performance by observing your boat’s behavior relative to sea conditions (weather helm, leeway). Appropriate awareness combined with timely tweaks ensures efficient operation throughout extended voyages.

8. Seek Expert Advice:

When seeking mastery over any subject matter, there is no substitute for expertise gained through experience and shared wisdom. Engage with sailing communities, forums, or seek advice from seasoned sailors who have honed their skills in wind vane self-steering. Their firsthand experiences and clever tricks will provide invaluable insights to propel your learning curve forward.

In conclusion, mastering the art of wind vane self-steering is a journey that requires practice, experimentation, and understanding. By grasping the basics, fine-tuning sail trim, learning your system inside-out, observing nature’s cues, and making incremental adjustments while monitoring performance attentively, you can unlock the true potential of this remarkable piece of sailing technology. So hoist your sails high and let the wind vane guide you towards a new realm of solo or small crew sailing prowess!

Choosing the Right Wind Vane Self Steering System for Your Boat

When it comes to sailing, there’s nothing quite like the feeling of gliding through the open waters, with the wind in your hair and the sun on your face. However, navigating a boat can be a challenging task, especially when you’re all alone out on the vast ocean. That’s where wind vane self steering systems come into play.

A wind vane self steering system is an invaluable piece of equipment that allows sailors to maintain course without having to constantly adjust their sails or helm. This automated system harnesses the power of the wind to steer the boat, freeing up valuable time and energy for sailors to focus on other important tasks.

But with so many different options available on the market, how do you choose the right wind vane self-steering system for your boat? Here are some key factors to consider:

1. Boat Size and Weight: The first thing you need to take into account is the size and weight of your boat. Wind vane self-steering systems come in various sizes designed to accommodate different vessels. It’s important to choose a system that is specifically built for boats within your size range to ensure optimal performance and stability.

2. Ease of Installation: As a sailor, you want a wind vane self-steering system that can be easily installed without requiring extensive modifications or additional support structures. Look for systems that come with clear installation instructions and minimal hardware requirements.

3. Weather Conditions: Sailors know that weather conditions can change rapidly at sea. Therefore, it’s essential to select a wind vane self-steering system that can handle a wide range of weather conditions – from light breezes to heavy winds and high seas. Look for systems that are durable and capable of maintaining control even in challenging weather scenarios.

4. Sensitivity Adjustment: Every boat handles differently based on its design and load distribution. To ensure precise control, choose a wind vane self-steering system that allows you to adjust its sensitivity to match your boat’s characteristics. This flexibility will enable you to fine-tune the system for optimal performance and responsiveness.

5. Reliability and Durability: When you’re out on the open water, you rely heavily on your equipment. Therefore, selecting a wind vane self-steering system from reputable manufacturers known for their reliability and durability is crucial. Look for systems made from high-quality materials that can withstand the harsh marine environment for years to come.

6. Cost: While cost should never be the sole determining factor, it’s still an important consideration when choosing a wind vane self-steering system for your boat. Evaluate different options and compare their features, performance, and price tags to find the best value for your money.

Now, armed with these essential considerations, you can embark on finding the perfect wind vane self-steering system that suits your boat and sailing needs. Remember to carefully research different products and consult with fellow sailors or experts if needed. With the right wind vane self-steering system onboard your boat, you’ll experience smoother sailing adventures like never before!

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Wind Vane Self Steering

Introduction:

Wind vane self-steering systems are a remarkable solution for sailors aiming to harness the power of the wind to navigate their vessels. By allowing the wind to guide the boat’s rudder, these systems reduce manual effort and provide a more reliable means of steering. However, like any piece of equipment, wind vane self-steering systems can sometimes encounter common issues that require troubleshooting. In this blog post, we will delve into some possible problems and provide professional, witty, and clever explanations on how to overcome them.

1. Lack of responsiveness: One frustrating issue that sailors may encounter with wind vane self-steering is a lack of responsiveness. If your system seems sluggish or fails to react promptly to changes in the wind direction, there are a few potential causes.

Explanation: Just like us humans after an indulgent Thanksgiving dinner, wind vanes can become lethargic too! The most common culprit for unresponsiveness is excessive friction within the system caused by wear or improper lubrication. To tackle this issue, start by giving your system a good inspection. Look for any signs of wear on bearings and joints while applying lubrication generously where needed (Think spa day for your wind vane). If this fails to resolve the problem, it might be worth checking if any foreign objects or debris have made their way into critical components – just imagine trying to navigate gingerly during peak pollen season!

2. Oscillations and instability: Unwanted oscillations or instability in your self-steering system can make sailing feel like riding a bucking bronco! This issue can be concerning and potentially dangerous if left unresolved.

Explanation: Imagine you are attempting to steer straight but your trusty wind vane has gained an affinity for dancing instead – quite embarrassing! The primary reason behind oscillations and instability is often an imbalance between sensitivity settings and sail trim (imagine mismatched dance partners). Adjusting both variables can help find the sweet spot. Additionally, thicker or heavier sails may contribute to excessive oscillations, so it might be time to reassess your sail wardrobe and consider adopting a lighter ensemble for smoother sailing (we all deserve a wardrobe makeover now and then!).

3. Misalignment and wandering: Has your wind vane suddenly decided to become an explorer, sailing in any direction other than the one you intended? Misalignment and wandering can occur due to various factors.

Explanation: Picture this – you want your wind vane pointing north, but instead, it decides it wants to discover hidden treasures in the opposite direction – quite the rebellious spirit! Misalignment is commonly caused by incorrect installation or loose connections between the wind vane and the boat’s rudder. Ensure that all parts are securely fastened with the precision of a complicated jigsaw puzzle (but without the frustration). When resolving misalignment issues, imagine you are showing your wind vane some tough love – tighten those nuts and bolts until they can’t even think about misbehaving!

Conclusion: While wind vane self-steering systems generally offer efficient steering solutions for sailors, encountering common issues is not uncommon. By understanding these challenges and implementing our witty troubleshooting advice, your wind vane will be back in shape in no time. Remember, a witty approach combined with professional expertise ensures smooth sailing both on water and through blog posts!

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Choosing and Understanding Self-Steering Gear

A guide to equipping your boat with an electronic autopilot or windvane: Part II  (published November 2013)

A common piece of equipment found on the modern offshore cruising sailboats is the autopilot. Whether it is an electronic unit, a windvane, or both, the need to relieve the helmsman from steering duty is essential to making safe passages, especially when sailing short of singlehanded.

Continuing our series on choosing and understanding the various self-steering options on the market, the windvane also falls under the category of options that should be considered when making your boat energy efficient offshore.

As stated similarly in Part I (see the October 2013 issue of BWS ) the major choices when faced with the purchase of new self-steering gear are: What conditions the unit is expected to perform in; what are the possible failure modes; what are the challenges when mounting the components to the boat; and last but not least, how much should ongoing maintenance and the expected service life of the gear be considered?

Trim Tab Steering A trim tab windvane, less commonly seen by major manufacturers today, was the forerunner of the modern windvane system and works by affixing a small “trim tab” to the main rudder.  This trim tab is easily moved due to a small surface area, and the windvane’s power is sufficient enough to kick it to one side or the other. As the trim tab swings, it creates a significant water force, causing the ship’s main rudder to move opposite, and this motion of the main rudder is able to steer the vessel. Though this sounds complicated, it works rather well and was a predominant form of steering for many offshore boats until the servo-pendulum was developed.  It had a major drawback, though, in that it could not be fitted to a boat where the trailing edge of the rudder was difficult to access, as in the case of counter sterns.

The servo-pendulum system is the “classic” windvane, with a small servo blade that looks like the windvane’s rudder in the water, and a larger windvane “paddle” in the air.  As the vane tips to one side or the other, the servo blade turns in the water like a mini rudder, but this doesn’t generate sufficient force to steer the boat by itself. Instead, as the rudder turns, the water flowing past it swings it to one side or the other.

For a similar analogy, think of when you stick your hand outside a car window while moving. If you turn your hand sideways and “fly” it like an airplane wing, as you change the angle of your hand the air pushes it up or down. This servo rudder does that same thing in the water, and the force of the water pushing it to one side or the other is surprisingly powerful. This force is then used to turn the main rudder through lines that are affixed to the tiller or wheel of the boat.

The servo-pendulum is rather complicated as it has many moving parts and the constantly moving lines can chafe over long passages. In addition, the variety of moving joints and frequent oscillation cause certain models to have a reputation for breaking down mid-passage; to the immense frustration of their skippers. Thus, it is important to understand the issues facing the specific brand and series of the servo-pendulum you may wish to purchase, as well as to gather a general feel for its reputation in the offshore community as the quality of these devices varies greatly, even from the same manufacturer, as improvements were made from year to year or model to model.

To reduce the complexity of the installation, the auxiliary rudder windvane was invented.

Auxiliary Rudder Vane The auxiliary rudder windvane works on an entirely different principle than the other two types. Instead of the windvane, with its low power, moving a small rudder tab or servo blade to increase power before steering the boat, the auxiliary rudder windvane uses a very powerful vane to directly steer a balanced rudder. There is no connection to the boat’s rudder and typically the boat’s rudder is left centered or angled very slightly to balance the helm. Auxiliary rudder windvanes put a tremendous amount of force on the vane, rudder and boat mounting points, as they are directly steering the boat. This makes it more essential to buy an extremely well made model, as there is very little tolerance for poorly designed gear under these stresses. A well-made system, however, is exceptionally reliable offshore because it only has a few moving parts and no critical lines that can chafe through. A good auxiliary rudder system has the added advantage of being able to serve, in many cases, as a “spare” or “emergency” rudder should something happen to the main rudder or steering system. This feature has helped several sailors return safely to port after catastrophic steering failure offshore.

MAJOR CONSIDERATIONS While windvanes do not require any electricity to operate, and thus tend to be preferred by the offshore sailing crowd, they require a lot of care in mounting, installation, and use. Windvanes are only useful, of course, when the wind is blowing from a consistent direction and with a reasonable amount of force to power the vane. For most systems, five knots is sufficient, but as the wind becomes variable or gusty, the change in apparent wind angle is enough to cause the vane to behave erratically until the wind stabilizes somewhat. As a result, they tend to be most useful in longer passages, particularly in clear air.

Additionally, the mounting of a wind vane system must be extremely strong and rigid, particularly for auxiliary rudder vanes, which exert full rudder forces on their mounting points.  Because of this, the mounting system for most vanes spreads the load across many parts of the transom and can obstruct or prevent the installation of other equipment such as arches, davits, outboard motor mounts or swim platforms. Consult with the manufacturer to get diagrams of the necessary space required and mounting options before committing to a given design.

Also, if you are considering a trim-tab or servo-pendulum system, note that additional modifications to your boat may be required to provide strong and solid fairleads for the control lines, to attach those lines to your wheel or tiller, and in the special case of a trim-tab, to affix the tab to the ship’s rudder. These considerations can be a significant part of the installation effort and expense, so plan your install carefully as these details are often the weak points that bring grief to otherwise solid and reliable vane gear.

Lastly, consider the air you are putting the vane portion of the self-steering into: Is it obstructed by arches, solar panels, dodgers or turbulent air off the mainsail?  In many cases, some of this is unavoidable, so consult with the manufacturer to determine if the obstruction is significant enough to cause an issue with the vane getting clear air to properly steer by. Many vanes stick up far enough to get above deck and cockpit objects, so make sure there is nothing above the vane such as dinghy davits or mizzen sails to obstruct the full range of the vane’s motion.

COMMON FAILURE MODES The windvane is, in general, an exceptionally reliable piece of gear if it is suitable for your boat, and maintained and manufactured properly. However, failures do occur, most notably on trim-tab and servo pendulum systems. Excessive chafe on control lines, control line fairlead breakdown, and screw or retaining pin failure on part of the gear mechanism are the common offshore issues. Fortunately, replacing the lines is not difficult, and spares are easy to carry and refit. If a key vane component goes into the water though, replacing it at sea, even if a spare is carried, can often be impossible in all but the calmest conditions. Therefore, maintaining vane gear and keeping a lanyard or tether on the most critical components is essential.

For instance, with offshore sailors the first and foremost consideration is usually that the unit be able to function at all times in nearly all but the most extreme survival weather and require the least amount of crew interaction necessary. This necessitates that the unit be able to operate independently of electrical systems or engine function, and thus often swings the offshore sailor’s preference in favor of a windvane.

However, if the sailor has a very well equipped yacht, with redundant and ample power supplies, or if he or she expects to motor as much or more than sail, during which electricity is provided by the engine’s operation, an electronic autopilot may make more sense.

For many sailors with the budget, having both a windvane and an electronic autopilot may be a good solution, keeping in mind the situations in which either will be needed. But armed with the awareness of how and where each of the major self-steering types are most useful and in what ways they are often unsuitable, a wise skipper can make the most sensible decision for his vessel and sailing intentions.

Daniel Collins, an ASA certified sailing and navigation instructor, amateur extra class radio operator and small boat racer, enjoys experimenting with marine electronics. He is also actively involved in community-driven social change. Email him at [email protected], or read his blog at www.oddasea.com . He owns Aletheia, an Allied Princess.

Cape Horn Marine Products www.capehorn.com

Hydrovane www.hydrovane.com

Sailomat International www.sailomat.com

Scanmar International products include the Monitor Windvane and Auto-Helm Windvane www.selfsteer.com

Author: Daniel Collins

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Windvane steering: why it makes sense for coastal cruising

• Will Bruton
• October 15, 2018

No electricity needed, built for gale-force conditions and currently experiencing 
something of a renaissance amongst 
cruisers; windvane self-steering makes sense for coastal cruisers as much as 
offshore voyagers. Will Bruton took 
an in depth look at the options 
and how they work.

‘The distance run was 2,700 miles as the crow flies. During those 23 days I had not spent more than three hours at the helm. I just lashed the helm and let her go; whether the wind was abeam or dead aft, it was all the same: she always stayed on her course,’ wrote Joshua Slocum in 1895.

The ability of his long-keeled Spray to hold course without input from the helm was instrumental 
in making her the first yacht to circumnavigate single-handed.

Few modern boats bear these inherently balanced characteristics, so some form of autopilot is necessary to allow the skipper to rest.

Even for crewed passages, it can take an enormous strain off the crew without draining the battery. Some insurance companies even count windvane steering as an additional crew member, such is its contribution to life on board.

Unlike an electronic autopilot, self-steering needs no power

One solution experiencing something of a renaissance, is windvane self-steering.

Requiring no electricity, mechanical self-steering gear was first designed in an age when autopilots were the preserve of large ships and heavy motor cruisers. The principle is relatively simple and pure physics.

What mechanical self-steering cannot do is hold your yacht on a compass course. However, as anyone that’s experienced a sudden wind shift or squall whilst away from the helm knows, steering to a wind angle is preferable most of the time as you are far less likely to crash gybe, and the sails remain correctly set.

Self-steering gear achieves this by presenting a vane directly into the wind. When the wind acts on either side of this vane, it tips, transferring this action through the mechanism below to either a rudder or a servo pendulum which acts on the main rudder, altering the boat’s course.

The two main systems

Servo-pendulum

A derivative of the servo-trim tab principle invented by Blondie Hasler, servo-pendulum self steering gear uses the speed of the yacht going through the water to push against the servo-paddle, creating a substantial force, which is then transferred to the yacht’s own tiller or wheel by control lines.

The wind itself does not provide the power for the steering; rather it adjusts the angle of the paddle, relying on the hydro-mechanical energy of the boat going through the water to do the work of steering the boat.

Popular before the advent of the small craft electronic autopilot, it’s particularly well suited to yachts under 40ft in length, and can be swung out of the water when not in use.

There are now several derivatives, including some available as a self-build kit. Amongst the Golden Globe Race entrants, models included Aries, Monitor, Windpilot and Beaufort systems.

One disadvantage of the servo-pendulum gear is that it uses the yacht’s rudder, meaning it does not double up as an emergency rudder should the yacht’s steering be disabled, although some servo-pendulums can be adapted.

Direct drive systems

Wind vane steering linked to a secondary rudder is the most inherently simple of the mechanical self-steering systems, but relies on a much more powerful transmission of force between a large-surface-area wind vane and the system’s own independent rudder.

Direct drive systems feature a large fully independent auxiliary rudder

This has the advantage of ensuring 
a back up steering method is already on board but also requires a heavy-duty installation to bear the load and strain that will be exerted.

One of the most popular models is the Hydrovane, which is now available in several different sizes and shapes depending on 
the boat it is being installed on.

The size 
and shape of the fabric-covered windvane is directly proportional to the size of yacht, and has been installed successfully on yachts in excess of 50ft in length, including multihulls.

When the boat veers off course, the 
wind hits the vane on one side or the other, deflecting it away from the vertical.

This then acts on a gear that converts 
this sideways movement into rotation to directly steer a relatively large rudder suspended from the boat’s transom via 
the installation framework.

Setting up windvane steering

Balancing the boat.

‘Before doing anything, you have to get the boat sailing well. It demands you take the time to get your boat properly balanced, correctly reefed and with no weather helms; so it actually makes you a better sailor!’ explains Nick Nottingham, who recently fitted a Hydrovane to his Hallberg-Rassy 42, Spellbinder . Nick is about to use the system on an Atlantic circuit.

Self-steering relies on a well balanced boat. As the wind shifts, the mechanism corrects

Self-steering gear works by adjusting the yacht’s course in relation to the apparent wind. The first step to making this work as efficiently as possible is to balance the boat and reduce the amount of input required.

Sailing conventionally, the yacht should be easy on the helm and not overpowered.

Setting the system for the conditions

Whether servo-pendulum or direct drive, most self-steering systems have one or more methods of adjustment for the conditions. In light airs, the wind vane will be exposed as much as possible to the wind, to exert the maximum force on the system, whereas in heavier weather, the vane’s height can be lowered, reducing the force acting on the system.

Some systems, like the Hydrovane, Monitor and Beaufort have different sized vanes that can be swapped, while the Windpilot and Aries allow the vane to be raked aft, presenting a shorter level.

With the wind vane attached, you are ready to remove the locking pin and engage the steering mechanism

On some set ups, the power exerted on the steering system can also be adjusted at the point where the wind vane meets its pivot, just like changing sensitivity on an electronic autopilot. By controlling the rotation of the rudder or paddle created by the windvane, you control how aggressively the system corrects the boat’s course.

Changing the gearing at the point where the wind input creates the steering output achieve an increase or decrease of ratio.

Engaging the system

To engage the system, set the yacht on course and adjust the wind vane so that the wind is flowing over it with the least resistance, like a blade.

If you a using a system with its own rudder, centralise and lock the yacht’s main rudder, simultaneously engaging the self-steering mechanism.

Once engaged, monitor how the system adjusts and double check your sails are trimmed correctly.

As the vane moves it will adjust the steering accordingly.

In heavy weather, reduce the system’s power to ensure the least amount of strain.

Self-steering systems work efficiently in strong winds but most will steer comfortably in light airs as well.

Course adjustments

When the wind vane is vertical, you are on course. When the vane is deflected, the system is adjusting course.

Changing the direction you want to go in is simply a matter of altering the self-steering system’s vane angle relative to the wind.

On most systems this is achieved by a steering line that can be run into the safety of the cockpit, meaning you do not necessarily need to adjust the vane itself directly.

Make small adjustments until the yacht comes onto the desired course, trimming the sails appropriately.

A standalone system?

Whilst self-steering systems offer a much more resilient option than an electronic autopilot for heavy weather, when there is no sailing wind, they cease to be useful.

Here an electronic tillerpilot has been plugged directly into the Hydrovane auxiliary rudder

For this reason, most cruisers also have a conventional electronic autopilot on board to steer under engine.

In the case of systems incorporating a rudder, many also make it possible to easily engage a tiller pilot onto the system’s auxiliary rudder for use under engine.

Self-steering on the Golden Globe Race

If there’s one place that mechanical 
self-steering fandom bordered on the evangelical this year, it was at the start of 
the Golden Globe Race .

50 years previously, Robin Knox-Johnston’s world first single-handed circumnavigation was steered by his own self-steering gear system until it failed 
near Australia.

Restored to her former glory, 
Knox-Johnston’s Suhaili joined the parade; along with Indian competitor Abhilash Tommy’s replica yacht Thuriya , which sports a commercially made Windpilot servo-pendulum system.

Self-steering gear on Suhaili. Credit: Nic Compton/Alamy Stock Photo

With this year’s revival competition using 1960’s technology and electronic wizardry strictly prohibited, mechanical self-steering systems are effectively the only option for competitors. Each has chosen carefully.

Competitors in the race are using a variety of systems including Hydrovane, Aries, Monitor, Windpilot and Beaufort.

Due to the nature of the boats competing being long keeled, they are ideally suited to mechanical self-steering, naturally holding course better than a modern hull. However, should systems fail and prove unrepairable, it will be hard 
for them to remain competitive in the race.

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Self Steering Vane

$ 32.00 – $ 47.00 (USD)

Plans for a wind vane system for self-steering. Suitable for sailboats from 21 to 60ft. System fits most transom type sailboats.

Gear operates an auxiliary rudder. Pictures show the vane gear, fitted to a Hartley Fijian 37.

We need to know the length of you boat so we know we are sending you the right plans. Please select the length of your boat from the list below.

Plans can be shipped folded in a large envelope or shipped in a sturdy cardboard tube (add $15.00 USD)

Meet the best crewmember that never tires, in any seastate.

The aries vane gear has proven itself in countless circumnavigations and hundreds of storms..

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"I recommend this windvane to any sailor who’s doing some serious ocean sailing. After 30.000 it still would have done another 30.000 miles without any work to it."

Mark Slats | Golden Globe Race 2018

About Aries

Born out of need, designed to last..

The origins of the Aries Vane Gear date back to 1964. Englishman Nick Franklin wanted to create a wind-generated autopilot, suitable for a large variety of sailboats, with different transoms and rudder layouts, operated by both tillers and wheels.

The Servo-Pendulum System was a winning formula. The boat is steered by its own rudder, which is the most efficient way to steer a boat. The force needed to steer is generated by the speed in the water and is more than sufficient to get even the heaviest cruising sailboats back on course.

Since the 60’ies, the Aries has been available in multiple models. Now we’re back to one model, suitable for all boats, like the Aries was intended by Nick Franklin. It has a proven track record with many circumnavigations and ocean crossings in bad weather. 

Lean Nelis has taken over Aries in 2015. He brought the company’s workshop to Amsterdam where he is still building and rebuilding every sailor’s favourite crewmember.

Read the Salty Stories...

...about us and sailors who have pushed their aries to the limit..

Got a question? Feel free to send us a message!

We’ll be in touch as soon as possible.

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Get in touch

International

Lean Nelis Aries Vane Gear Zamenhofstraat 118 1022AG Amsterdam The Netherlands KVK 51595362

E-mail: [email protected]

Georg Seifert Schulz-Hohenstein Söhne Nachf. Geibelstr. 9-11 47057 Duisburg Germany

E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.shipshop.de

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Braine and Vane Steering Drawings Model Boat Plan

• Description

Two sheets showing full working drawings for a variety of steering and sail control devices for vintage, restored and replica yachts of all types. Most diagrams fully dimensioned for reproduction by competent model makers. Designed by G W Clark. Featured in: Free Plans MMI July 2001 3 Star Difficulty Rating

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Windy Selfsteering

Tough, strong and reliable self steering

New Windy coming soon

Model Windy (servo-pendulum, currently not available) feedback and nice blog:

Sailblog Yacht Flirtie, Voyager 40 Blog1: https://www.sailblogs.com/member/distantdrummer/483079 Blog2: https://www.sailblogs.com/member/distantdrummer/483286 Blog3: https://www.sailblogs.com/member/distantdrummer/

About ProVane

ProVane is designed for a larger boat with wheel (also suits for tiller) and it has emergency rudder ability. ProVane can be mounted off-center.

It’s rudder is 300x1100mm and also the windvane is large, 520x1000mm. ProVane is stand alone system, auxiliary rudder type, no steering lines in cocpit for the wheel.

Advantages over electric autopilots:

• It does not require electricity for its operation.
• Robust and simple construction. 
• Emergency rudder with tiller.
• Vessels rudder system does not wear on longer trips.

Dimensions PDF:

proVane dimensions

For better understanding user manual is downloadable by this link here (Google Drive):

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Make your sailing experience more enjoyable

Nb no new orders will take new orders in august. apologies.

Text goes here

Text goes here also

Selfsteering equipment idea was born while I was sailing around the world across three oceans on a 31-feet yacht.

On the last leg from South Africa to Cabo Verde, flight home being less than 4000 nm away, the old noname self steering gear broke down when a bigger breaker hit the yacht from the side.

This gave me a reason to start developing a new self steering system that would be stronger. The idea was to build the cheapest windvane on the market that would still keep its strength and quality. By now Windy windvane has successfully sailed across the Atlantic ocean many times.

S/Y Bellatrix

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The Boat Design

Monday, november 18, 2019, model yacht steering gear.

The vane gear fitted to grove pond yachts is a result of two years development. a balsa feather mounted to a friction mounting is counter balanced by a sliding brass weight. this is so the weight of the feather will not effect the steering when the boat heals.. Braine steering gear a j fisher pond yacht. elgin houchins. model sailboats. see more pond yacht" simple steering gear - will it work? | model boats. anthony cardoso. modelos ship. wooden model boats model ships sailboat scale models rigs boat building craft projects project ideas sailing. pond yachts and sailing models. see more what. That a yacht sails, or should sail, primarilv on the "set" of its sails and that the steering gear is an adlunct: verv necessary on some points of sailing but still an adiunct. this leads us to the first instructive section under the title of 'know the parts', in which the various parts of the hull and rigging are described. know the parts.

"pond yacht steering gear and fittings by a.j. fisher | #36505928" sailing yachts rc model wooden boats pond ships model ships rennes veil mockup. rennes enchères. hugh wylam. boats. enjoy the pleasure of wooden model boat building. based on the international star boat this semi-scale star45 can be scratch built by novice or seasoned skipper.. Braine gear. the earliest model yachts had no steering gear whatsoever, and consequently were unable to sail a good course when the wind was anywhere abaft the beam.. Free sailing 1940s mm or half marblehead class racing yacht by grove pond yachts. a small 25in hard chine yacht with a beech ply hull and deck, aluminum mast and cambric cotton sails..

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Out of the Centre

Savvino-storozhevsky monastery and museum.

Zvenigorod's most famous sight is the Savvino-Storozhevsky Monastery, which was founded in 1398 by the monk Savva from the Troitse-Sergieva Lavra, at the invitation and with the support of Prince Yury Dmitrievich of Zvenigorod. Savva was later canonised as St Sabbas (Savva) of Storozhev. The monastery late flourished under the reign of Tsar Alexis, who chose the monastery as his family church and often went on pilgrimage there and made lots of donations to it. Most of the monastery’s buildings date from this time. The monastery is heavily fortified with thick walls and six towers, the most impressive of which is the Krasny Tower which also serves as the eastern entrance. The monastery was closed in 1918 and only reopened in 1995. In 1998 Patriarch Alexius II took part in a service to return the relics of St Sabbas to the monastery. Today the monastery has the status of a stauropegic monastery, which is second in status to a lavra. In addition to being a working monastery, it also holds the Zvenigorod Historical, Architectural and Art Museum.

Belfry and Neighbouring Churches

Located near the main entrance is the monastery's belfry which is perhaps the calling card of the monastery due to its uniqueness. It was built in the 1650s and the St Sergius of Radonezh’s Church was opened on the middle tier in the mid-17th century, although it was originally dedicated to the Trinity. The belfry's 35-tonne Great Bladgovestny Bell fell in 1941 and was only restored and returned in 2003. Attached to the belfry is a large refectory and the Transfiguration Church, both of which were built on the orders of Tsar Alexis in the 1650s.  

To the left of the belfry is another, smaller, refectory which is attached to the Trinity Gate-Church, which was also constructed in the 1650s on the orders of Tsar Alexis who made it his own family church. The church is elaborately decorated with colourful trims and underneath the archway is a beautiful 19th century fresco.

Nativity of Virgin Mary Cathedral

The Nativity of Virgin Mary Cathedral is the oldest building in the monastery and among the oldest buildings in the Moscow Region. It was built between 1404 and 1405 during the lifetime of St Sabbas and using the funds of Prince Yury of Zvenigorod. The white-stone cathedral is a standard four-pillar design with a single golden dome. After the death of St Sabbas he was interred in the cathedral and a new altar dedicated to him was added.

Under the reign of Tsar Alexis the cathedral was decorated with frescoes by Stepan Ryazanets, some of which remain today. Tsar Alexis also presented the cathedral with a five-tier iconostasis, the top row of icons have been preserved.

Tsaritsa's Chambers

The Nativity of Virgin Mary Cathedral is located between the Tsaritsa's Chambers of the left and the Palace of Tsar Alexis on the right. The Tsaritsa's Chambers were built in the mid-17th century for the wife of Tsar Alexey - Tsaritsa Maria Ilinichna Miloskavskaya. The design of the building is influenced by the ancient Russian architectural style. Is prettier than the Tsar's chambers opposite, being red in colour with elaborately decorated window frames and entrance.

At present the Tsaritsa's Chambers houses the Zvenigorod Historical, Architectural and Art Museum. Among its displays is an accurate recreation of the interior of a noble lady's chambers including furniture, decorations and a decorated tiled oven, and an exhibition on the history of Zvenigorod and the monastery.

Palace of Tsar Alexis

The Palace of Tsar Alexis was built in the 1650s and is now one of the best surviving examples of non-religious architecture of that era. It was built especially for Tsar Alexis who often visited the monastery on religious pilgrimages. Its most striking feature is its pretty row of nine chimney spouts which resemble towers.

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• Kontinental Hockey League

Gagarin Cup Preview: Atlant vs. Salavat Yulaev

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Gagarin cup (khl) finals:  atlant moscow oblast vs. salavat yulaev ufa.

Much like the Elitserien Finals, we have a bit of an offense vs. defense match-up in this league Final.  While Ufa let their star top line of Alexander Radulov, Patrick Thoresen and Igor Grigorenko loose on the KHL's Western Conference, Mytischi played a more conservative style, relying on veterans such as former NHLers Jan Bulis, Oleg Petrov, and Jaroslav Obsut.  Just reaching the Finals is a testament to Atlant's disciplined style of play, as they had to knock off much more high profile teams from Yaroslavl and St. Petersburg to do so.  But while they did finish 8th in the league in points, they haven't seen the likes of Ufa, who finished 2nd. 

This series will be a challenge for the underdog, because unlike some of the other KHL teams, Ufa's top players are generally younger and in their prime.  Only Proshkin amongst regular blueliners is over 30, with the work being shared by Kirill Koltsov (28), Andrei Kuteikin (26), Miroslav Blatak (28), Maxim Kondratiev (28) and Dmitri Kalinin (30).  Oleg Tverdovsky hasn't played a lot in the playoffs to date.  Up front, while led by a fairly young top line (24-27), Ufa does have a lot of veterans in support roles:  Vyacheslav Kozlov , Viktor Kozlov , Vladimir Antipov, Sergei Zinovyev and Petr Schastlivy are all over 30.  In fact, the names of all their forwards are familiar to international and NHL fans:  Robert Nilsson , Alexander Svitov, Oleg Saprykin and Jakub Klepis round out the group, all former NHL players.

For Atlant, their veteran roster, with only one of their top six D under the age of 30 (and no top forwards under 30, either), this might be their one shot at a championship.  The team has never won either a Russian Superleague title or the Gagarin Cup, and for players like former NHLer Oleg Petrov, this is probably the last shot at the KHL's top prize.  The team got three extra days rest by winning their Conference Final in six games, and they probably needed to use it.  Atlant does have younger regulars on their roster, but they generally only play a few shifts per game, if that. 

The low event style of game for Atlant probably suits them well, but I don't know how they can manage to keep up against Ufa's speed, skill, and depth.  There is no advantage to be seen in goal, with Erik Ersberg and Konstantin Barulin posting almost identical numbers, and even in terms of recent playoff experience Ufa has them beat.  Luckily for Atlant, Ufa isn't that far away from the Moscow region, so travel shouldn't play a major role. 

I'm predicting that Ufa, winners of the last Superleague title back in 2008, will become the second team to win the Gagarin Cup, and will prevail in five games.  They have a seriously well built team that would honestly compete in the NHL.  They represent the potential of the league, while Atlant represents closer to the reality, as a team full of players who played themselves out of the NHL. 

• Atlant @ Ufa, Friday Apr 8 (3:00 PM CET/10:00 PM EST)
• Atlant @ Ufa, Sunday Apr 10 (1:00 PM CET/8:00 AM EST)
• Ufa @ Atlant, Tuesday Apr 12 (5:30 PM CET/12:30 PM EST)
• Ufa @ Atlant, Thursday Apr 14 (5:30 PM CET/12:30 PM EST)

Games 5-7 are as yet unscheduled, but every second day is the KHL standard, so expect Game 5 to be on Saturday, like an early start. 

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