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For some of our clients, they gain greater satisfaction in actually building their own ships, yachts and sailboats rather than purchasing a ready-made ship model. Premier Ship Models caters for both collectors of ready–made models and the avid hobbyist who prefer to make their own by providing the services and relevant products to satisfy all of their needs.

Model Boat Kits: Explore Premier Ship Models’ Exquisite Collection

Delve into the world of model boat kits at Premier Ship Models, where our curated collection awaits your exploration. With meticulous craftsmanship and a passion for maritime history, we present an exquisite array of model ship kits to captivate enthusiasts of all levels. From timeless classics to exclusive offerings, each kit in our collection is a testament to our commitment to quality and authenticity. Embark on a journey of creativity and discovery as you peruse our selection of wooden model boats, sailboat kits, and historical replicas. Experience the artistry of model ship building with Premier Ship Models.

There is an extensive range of kits on offer of tall ship building kits and wooden yacht model kits; furthermore, there are different levels of difficulty to choose from to ensure that you pick the right one for you. There are many reasons why someone would want to build their own model. From the feedback that we have received, it seems to be purely for the satisfaction of making something with your own hands that you can be proud of.

Our collection includes sail boats, tall ship building kits, scale model boat kits, historical ships, and wooden yacht model kits. In addition, we will try and source kits for you if you are unable to find a specific one that you are looking for. We have about 200 model kits on offer and all of them are wooden ship model kits. The ship model kits that we offer have been carefully selected to ensure that they are of the finest quality, using the best quality woods and materials.

Featured Model Boat Kits

Step into the world of model boat kits with our curated selection of featured models that capture the essence of maritime history and craftsmanship. From classic sailboats to majestic tall ships, each kit boasts meticulous attention to detail and exceptional quality craftsmanship. Explore our popular model boat kits, including wooden model boats and wooden sailboat kits, meticulously crafted to satisfy your desire for authenticity and beauty.

As a result we have model makers coming back to us with positive feedback where they have been pleased with the quality of our sailboats, yachts and tall ship building kits. As mentioned above we sell kits from the best manufacturers of quality model kits. They are, Artesania, Amerang, Billings, Aeronaut, Amati and Mantua to name but a few. The types of models are; classic, historic, modern ships and wooden yacht model kits and these tend to be vessels from history, stories, and classic yachts, including HMS Unicorn, HMS Victory,La Sirene, Le Mirage, Reale De France and many others.

Over the years, we have found that one of our best-selling and most popular model ship kits is the Scotland Baltic yacht model kit. This particular wooden kit is provided by an Italian manufacturer, Corel S.R.L., famous for making wooden kits over 40 years. Another popular wooden ship model kit by Corel S.R.L. is the HMS Bellona, a famous 74 gun classic British Navy ship.

One of the most elegant ship model kits in our product range is the Blue Nose 11 model ship a great focal point in any room or office. For those of you who are more experienced kit builders, Smit Rotterdam model boat kit is a great choice. This model ship kit is built with bulb stern nozzle and the onboard equipment includes a very modern for component for navigation, steering and radio communication.

Another possibility for a more advanced kit builder is the HMS Bounty model ship kit with laser cut parts. Purchasing a boat model kit online could not be simpler! Our easy and friendly online store makes purchasing sailing boat models, tall ship building kits and wooden yacht model kits easy and convenient.

To make your shopping easier, we have classified our kits according to the manufacturer and level of difficulty (Beginner, Intermediate and Advanced). Kits can be shipped out to you worldwide. Please see our customer testimonials for all those satisfied customers who have purchased from us from 81 countries around the world so far and counting.

New Arrivals

Stay ahead of the curve with our latest arrivals, featuring the newest additions to our ever-expanding inventory of model boat kits. Discover exciting opportunities to embark on fresh building projects and expand your collection with the latest offerings from renowned manufacturers. With our commitment to sourcing the finest ship model kits, you can trust that each new arrival embodies the same level of excellence and precision that defines Premier Ship Models.

At Premier Ship Models, we cater to the unique preferences of every collector. We offer a large selection of ready-made ship models and model ship kits for those who prefer to build their own models. If you find building models relaxing or relish the satisfaction of building something with your own hands, we offer intricate boat and ship models that you would be proud to display in your home.

At Premier Ship Models, we have an expansive selection that includes more than 200 wooden model boat kits. We feature model kits from the best known brands in the industry. We showcase only the best products with the best quality woods and materials to ensure a pleasant experience for novice and experienced model builders alike. Choose ship kits from Artesania, Aeronaut, Billings, Amati, Mantua, and other well-known and respected brands.

Customer Favorites

Join the ranks of satisfied customers who have experienced the joy of building and displaying our customer-favorite model boat kits. With rave reviews and high ratings, these kits have captured the hearts of enthusiasts worldwide, earning accolades for their exceptional quality, authenticity, and attention to detail. Choose from our selection of customer favorites and embark on a rewarding journey of model ship building that will leave you feeling proud and fulfilled.

Models for Every Skill Level & Interest

Do you love a certain type of ship or time period in military or nautical history? Our inventory includes ship model kits of classic, historic, and modern ships. You will find model kits for all types of vessels, including tall ships, wooden yachts, historical ships, sail boats, scale model boat kits, and more. Whether you are looking for a model from a specific time period, type of ship, or modern boats, you will find it here.

Always select a model that is appropriate for the level of skill and experience of the person building it. A kit that is too easy or too difficult will detract from the enjoyment of the activity. We have model sailboat kits for every level of difficulty to satisfy beginners as well as more advanced hobbyists. Read the product description of each kit to learn more about each ship, including the materials included in the kit, photographs, and level of difficulty to make sure that the ship is right for you.

Exclusive Model Ship Kits

Indulge in the luxury of exclusivity with our collection of exclusive model boat kits, available only at Premier Ship Models. Discover limited-edition treasures that exemplify the pinnacle of craftsmanship and design, meticulously curated to offer you a unique and unforgettable building experience. Elevate your collection with these rare gems and make a statement that reflects your discerning taste and appreciation for the finer things in life.

Historical Replicas

Experience history brought to life with our collection of historical replica model boat kits, meticulously recreated to honor the grandeur of maritime heritage. Immerse yourself in the rich tapestry of naval history as you embark on a journey to build iconic vessels from the past. With unparalleled accuracy and attention to detail, our historical replicas are a testament to our commitment to preserving the legacy of maritime craftsmanship for generations to come.

Some model boat enthusiasts take the hobby to the next level with radio controlled boats. We offer prebuilt models and RC boat kits for large RC boats, scale boats, gas powered boats, PC hull boats, race and speed boats. RC boat models are used for recreation or competitive racing, depending on the interests of the individual. Browse through our website to find wooden model ships, sailboats, historic ships, and modern ship model kits that are suited for beginner, intermediate, and advanced model building. We offer fast order processing and worldwide shipping.

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Model Ship Kits

Beginner model ship starter packs, wooden model kits, model ship fittings & accessories, model ship plans, modeling tools, model ship decorations, model tram kits, modeling timbers, new model kits.

Venetian Gondola

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Wooden model ship kits.

HMS FLY – Swan Class 1776

CSS Shenandoah 1864

Featured Model Ship Manufacturer

Modellers shipyard.

Modellers Shipyard has been manufacturing ship model kits since 1986. They are the only manufacturer of wooden ship models in Australia. These historically accurate ship kits are faithful interpretations of the original vessels. All Modellers Shipyard ship model kits are double plank on bulkhead construction and only use the highest quality parts.

Each kit comes with highly detailed English building instructions with color photos which will assist you through the whole building process. Most of their kits have an optional extra DVD set where a master model maker demonstrates the step by step construction of the particular model.

• Modeling Hub

Here at Modelers Central we are passionate about the world of ship model kits. The Modelers Central team are continuously researching new model ship kits, stocking high quality brands and sharing tips and techniques on ship model kit building.

With you, our customer, at the forefront of Modelers Central we strive to provide you with diverse, innovative and enthralling aspects in the pursuit of building ship model kits.

With such a large range of ship model kit products you will be sure to find timber and fittings for the advanced scratch model ship builder, ship model kits for the intermediate modeler and ship model kits for the modeler just beginning in the fascinating area of ship model kit building.

Featured Posts

• Rigging Tips for Building a Model Ship
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• What Tools Do I Need For Model Ship Building?
• What Glues & Paints Do I Need For A Model Ship?
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• How To Plank The Hull of a Sharp Bow Model Ship

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CSS Shenandoah 1864 – Model Ship Kit

Modelers Shipyard have announced the introduction of a new wooden model ship kit to hit the – CSS Shenandoah 1864. Find out more here.

116 Naval Sayings – The Ultimate List of Nautical Sayings & Sailing Terms

The Anatomy of the Ship set of books is a highly acclaimed series providing the finest documentation of individual ships and ship types to be published. We take a look at some of the best in the series for model ship builders and maritime history enthusiasts

Highlights of The Mariners Museum and Park

We take a look The Mariners Museum and Park in Virginia and why it is worth a visit for model ship builders and maritime history lovers alike.

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Billing Boats USA

• Wooden Hull Ship Kits
• ABS Hull Ship Kits
• Limited Editions

Welcome to Billing Boats USA

Billing boats usa is your one stop source for consumers, museums, and hobby shop retailers, nordlandsbaaden viking ship, $ 241.95.

Viking Ship – Roar Ege

$ 145.20.

FD 10 Yawl “Arnanes”

$ 199.10.

African Queen

$ 294.80.

$ 648.99

St. Roch Arctic Patrol Boat

$ 193.60.

50 Piece Knife Set & A5 Cutting Mat

$ 53.57.

15 Pce Craft & Model Tool Set

$ 37.81.

Rotacraft 400 Piece Accessory Set & Case

$ 63.77.

13pc. Model Rail Tool Set

$ 51.60.

18 Pce Hobby and Craft Set

$ 51.61.

Billing Boats USA is a reseller of Billing Boats kits and fittings, Model Craft hobby tools , and various ship modeling accessories. Billing Boats has been a market leader in the USA since 1965 with over 400,000 model boat kit varieties sold.  Billing Boats USA kits are renowned for their authenticity and quality and are highly sought after by model and hobby boat enthusiasts the world over.

Billing Boats model kits include a range of sleek, fast Viking ships , famous wooden sailing ships from history including, Frigates , Man-O-Wars, Clipper Ships, Historically significant ships such as the Mayflower  and HMS Bounty, and a host of old and new boats that have made maritime history!

Beginner Kits

Rainbow Cutter

$ 75.90.

Norden Cutter

$ 138.60.

USCG Rescue Boat

Mini Oseberg Viking Ship

$ 29.70.

Dana Fishing Boat

Waveney Class Lifeboat

Advanced beginner kits.

Henriette Marie

$ 75.00.

The Andrea Gail

Experienced Kits

$ 314.60

$ 326.70

$ 296.99

M/S Mercantic

$ 450.00.

$ 423.50

$ 415.80

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• Billing Boats Kits
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In addition to our authentic “plank-on-frame” construction (exactly the same way that real ships are built), Billing Boats has some model ship kits with ABS (plastic) hulls that are ideal for making these remote control boats !

www.billingboatsusa.com is the one stop source for consumers, museums, and hobby shop retailers interested in purchasing our quality model boats, hobby tools , craft tools , model boat fittings , and accessories . – We’re committed to your complete satisfaction!

Look to Billing Boats USA for frequent special offers, helpful links, “ how-to’s “, tips , and suggestions to help make creating your Billing Boat USA masterpiece most rewarding.

Start with our Beginner level kits and graduate up to our most detailed Experienced , and Expert level model kits . Model boat kit making is a fun, educational, and satisfying activity and is a hobby that stays with you for life!

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Micro Boat Hobby model boats kits

All micro boat hobby models are one of a kind. all boats are set up to be run by radio control. the primary scale is 1:200 for all boats, but many models are available in different scales and sizes, too..

"Granit" in 1:200

A61 "Rmah" in 1:200

T-ATF-172 "Apache" in 1:200

"Sinekura 2" in 1:200

MS "Arkona" in 1:200

"Lewek Kea" in 1:200

Coaster 840 "Orzival" in 1:200

NVG6 "Holstentor" in 1:200

HMCS "Kingston" (MM700) in 1:200

"Anticosti" in 1:200

"Skandi Saigon" in 1:200

"Emilka" in 1:87

"M-22" in 1:87

"Thetis" in 1:200

Lewek Kea Anchor Handling Tug

The "Lewek Kea" and her sister ship "Lewek Kestrel"  are typical examples for modern anchor handling tugs.  Operated by EMAS Offshore Limited, they are used for a variety of tasks, such as anchor handling, towage, safety  services, seismic  exploration and emergency services. Both vessels are therefore equipped with a variety of winches and emergency equipment.

This kind of vessel is a common representative of the most important workhorse of the offshore industry around the world. 

Scale 1:200

Length 24 cm

Width 6.5 cm

RC functions the model is prepared for

• two shafts in kort nozzles
• twin rudder
• bow thruster

Other scales: 1:288, 1:350

Skandi Saigon

Anchor Handling Tug / Supply Vessel

The "Skandi Emerald" and her sister ships (Skandi Atlantic, Skandi Pacific and Skandi Saigon)  are typical large modern anchor handling and supply tugs.  Operated by DOF Group, they are used for a variety of tasks, such as anchor handling, towage, safety services, and to supply offshore operations. The vessels are therefore equipped with a variety of winches and emergency equipment, such as several winches, storage areas and a large open deck space for various kinds of operations.

Length 37.5 cm

Width 8.7 cm

• two shafts in kort nozzles / twin flap rudders 
• twin bow thruster / twin stern thruster
• main crane (lift and rotation)
• smoke stack
• retractable tow pins 

Anchor Handling Tug / UT704

The "Granit" is an anchor handling vessel used in offshore and supply operations, based on the very common UT 704 design. Currently operated by Lotos Petrobaltic (the same company that discovered the wreck of the lost German aircraft carrier "Graf Zeppelin" in 2006), the vessel was built in Poland in 1980. The ship operates largely in the Baltic Sea.

Length 32 cm

Width 7.2 cm

• twin rudders 
• bow thruster 

Other scales: 1:350

T-ATF-172 Apache

Powhatan Class US Navy Tug

The seven Powhatan Class tugs were built and operated by the Military Sealift Command of the US navy since the late 1970‘ies for all kinds of fleet ocean tug duties. In 2014, four were still active with the US navy. Each vessel are used to tow vessels, barges, and gun exercise targets, and they are used for salvage and rescue operations. With their twin diesel engines, they have a bollard pull of approximately 54 tons. Additional equipment includes a ten ton crane, a dinghy and firefighting equipment .

Length 36.5 cm

Width 7.5 cm

• dinghy crane

Other scales: 1:144

MV Anticosti

Offshore supply vessel / Minesweeper

The Anticosti, originally "Jean Tide”, was built as an oil rig supply vessel and later converted by the Canadian Navy to serve as a minesweeper (HMCS Anticosti (MSA 110)). Her sister ship, "Joyce Tide”, was converted to the minesweeper "HMCS Moresby" (MSA 112). With the introduction of the Kingston-class patrol vessels, both ships were retired from active service and later sold to be used again as supply vessels. The Anticosti still is in active service today. Driven by four diesel engines, she employs a total of 4,600 horsepower. In addition, she uses a GillJet thruster to aid maneuverability (also referred as azimuth bow thruster or pump jet). 

Length 29 cm

• azimut thruster (steering / propulsion) ("GillJet")

Coaster 840 ("KüMo 840")

Serie Nordstern

The coastal transport vessels of the type „Kümo 840“, also known as „Serie Nordstern“, were built by the German Democratic Republic in the years 1960 until 1963. In total, 25 units were built, which were mostly used for coastal transport tasks in the Baltic Sea and the Mediterranean. The ships were able to carry 840 tons and had two cranes with a lift capacity of 3 tons each.

Width 5.1 cm

• single shaft with geared motor
• single rudder 

Other scales: 1:160

Multi-purpose coastal transport vessel

The vessel "Sinekura 2" is a  typical multi-purpose coastal transport vessel with high versatility even under difficult conditions. She is operated by Onego Shipping in Russia. The fact that she is equipped with a 25 ton crane makes her somewhat unique. She was built 1988 in Japan. During the first part of her life, she was operated under the name “”Myoho Maru”, she is registered as IMO 8805884.

Length 25 cm

• single rudder
• crane (rotation, lift, hook) 

Supplier NVG 6

NVG 6 was built in 1966 as one of the first supply vessels to support the offshore activities in the North Sea, and it was run by DDG Hansa. Many of the following supply vessels were derived from this design. After 1967, the vessel was named „Holstentor“, and while it was sold later, it was operated until 2012, last as „Marive III".

Length 26 cm

• twin shafts 
• (no rudder, but steering by separately controlled props) 

Other scales: 1:100, 1:350

MM 700 HMCS Kingston

Kingston class coastal defence vessel.

The Kingston class vessels serve multiple roles, both in mine sweeping services, coastal patrol and training. They have a complement of approx. 35 staff on board, and can be equipped for the different purposes using a modular system of different 20 ft. ISO containers that can be stowed on the rear deck. Seven different mission-specific modules are available. The ships use diesel-electric Z-drives with azimuth pods that can be rotated by 360°, giving them exceptional maneuverability. They are armed with a 40mm gun and two 12.7mm machine guns.

Length 27.7 cm

Width 4.7 cm

• twin pods (Schottel drive)

Other scales: 1:96, 1:160, 1:350

A61 Rmah / A62 Alfaq

Uae roro multipurpose auxiliary.

The auxiliaries A61 Rmah and A62 Alfaq were built as multi-purpose vessels / auxiliaries fort he United Arab Emirates. They are designed as RoRo ships (roll on, roll off), but can also be used as minelayers and for other supply tasks. Some sources on the web also suspect a possible ASW (anti submarine warfare) duty that, however, has not been confirmed. Both were built by Nobiskrug shipyard in Germany in 2013 .

Width 5.5 cm

• twin shafts
• twin rudders
• bow thruster (low height)

Futhermore, the ramp, the crane and the radar can be made to work, but not all parts are included. 

German Cruise Ship

The   MS Arkona   was originally built as the   MS Astor   in 1981 and renamed   MS Arkona   in 1985. It is most well-known for its appearance in the German TV Series "Traumschiff" (in 1983/84) and the DFF TV series "Luv und Lee" (in 1990). She sailed from 1985 onwards under a GDR flag until in 1990. In 2002, she was renamed MS Astoria and later sold again, being renamed Quest for Glory and then Saga Pearl II. As a cruise ship, she   could accommodate about 600 passengers, employing a crew of 220 staff. Being much smaller than other cruise ships today, Saga Cruises therefore today promotes it as more of a “yacht like” experience to take a cruise on this ship.

Scale 1:400

Length 41.1 cm

Width 6.3 cm

Other scales: 1:200

Thetis Class ("Klasse 420")

German submarine hunter.

The five units of the Thetis class were originally designed in the early 1960ies as submarine hunters and went through different design stages; the most well-known unit is possibly the "Najade", which had a characteristic superstructure to accommodate a hospital section ahead of the main superstructure. In the German Navy, they were mostly used for anti-submarine duties, for which they were armed with two to four torpedo tubes, an anti-submarine launcher and a 40mm anti-aircraft gun. They also used various mines and depth charges. All units were transferred to the Hellenic Navy of Greece in the early 1990ies , and were kept in service until early this century as gunboats, which were equipped with a second 40mm gun instead of the anti-submarine launcher .

Length 35 cm

Width 4.1 cm

Other scales: 1:100, 1:285, 1:350

Polish Mooring Tug

The "Emilka" was the prototype of a series of small tug boats. Today, she is still in use in Gdansk Harbor, and she has several derived military sister ships that were built after this initial design, all with slight improvements (M-12, M-21, M-22 and M-35) and one civilian sister ship that is still in use ("Nogat", originally M-45, also sightly varying from the original design). One further vessel (M-36) saw its use in the Polish coast guard for a while.  The model of the Navy tug M22 is available through Micro Boat Hobby, too. The vessel was set up to carry seven passengers or up to 2.5 tons of cargo. The derived versions later make no more use of the "cage" that the original boat was equipped with.

Length 12.4 cm

Width 4.5 cm

Polish Navy Tug

The "M22" is one of several small tug boats employed by the Polish Navy to support harbor and mooring activities, such as the quayside positioning of larger vessels when mooring. The M22 and its sister units M12, M21 and M35 are built based on the design of the mooring tug "Emilka", which still serves as a mooring tug in Gdynia / Gdansk and is also available as a model here.  There is also one other civilian sister ship that is still in use ("Nogat", originally M-45). One further vessel (M-36) saw its use in the Polish coast guard for a while. The vessel was set up to carry seven passengers or up to 2.5 tons of cargo. The derived military versions  make no more use of the "cage" that the original boat was equipped with, and their state of equipment and painting has varied over the years.

Model Yacht Racing: A Challenging and Fun Hobby

• By - Kyle Hilson
• Posted on November 14, 2023 November 15, 2023
• Posted in RC Boats

Model yacht racing is a popular hobby that involves miniature sailboats racing against each other. This hobby originated in the 19th century and has since grown in popularity around the world. Model yacht racing is not only fun but also requires skill and strategy, making it a challenging and satisfying activity for participants. Model yachts come in different sizes and designs, ranging from small remote-controlled boats to larger traditional sailing yachts. Some popular types of model yachts include radio-controlled boats, pond yachts, and racing skiffs. Each type of model yacht has its own unique features and requires different skills and techniques to navigate. Model yacht racing has established rules and regulations that vary depending on the type of race. The International Radio Sailing Association (IRSA) governs radio-controlled model yacht racing, while traditional pond yacht racing often has its own set of rules. Most races follow a set course and have different point systems for determining the winner.

Mastering the techniques of model yacht racing.

Model yachts come in different sizes and designs, ranging from small remote-controlled boats to larger traditional sailing yachts . Some popular types of model yachts include radio-controlled boats , pond yachts , and racing skiffs . Each type of model yacht has its own unique features and requires different skills and techniques to navigate.

What techniques and skills are important for navigating and racing model yachts?

Techniques and skills such as good visual awareness, knowledge of wind direction, efficient sail trimming, quick decision making, and precise maneuvering are important for navigating and racing model yachts.

Model yacht racing categories and rules: a comprehensive guide.

There are different categories and classes of model yacht racing , each with its own set of rules and regulations and eligible boats. For example, radio-controlled model yachts are categorized by size and speed, while vintage pond yachts are classified by age and model. Here is a sample table of popular model yacht racing categories.

Most races follow a set course and have different point systems for determining the winner. Model yacht racing has established rules and regulations that vary depending on the type of race. The International Radio Sailing Association (IRSA) governs radio-controlled model yacht racing , while traditional pond yacht racing often has its own set of rules.

What are the different resources available for enthusiasts of model yacht racing?

Enthusiasts of model yacht racing can access different resources such as local clubs, online communities, model yacht shops, and magazines for tips and advice on improving their skills and finding events.

Model yacht racing techniques for winning.

Model yacht racing requires skill and strategy to navigate through the water and outmaneuver competitors.

Techniques such as tacking and jibing are important for turning and changing direction quickly and effectively.

Racing skiffs require different techniques such as shifting weight to maintain stability and speed.

Model yacht racing is not just about having a fast and powerful boat; it also requires skill and strategy to win. Here are some of the essential techniques used in model yacht racing:

– Tacking: maneuvering the boat into the wind to change direction. – Jibing: turning the boat away from the wind to change direction. – Shifting weight: keeping the boat stable and speeding up by shifting body weight, especially when sailing skiffs. – Reading the wind: adjusting sail and rudder angle to maximize the wind impact, especially in races over longer distances.

What are some ways to improve skills and techniques in model yacht racing?

Some ways to improve skills and techniques in model yacht racing include practicing regularly, studying and learning from experienced racers, attending clinics and workshops, analyzing race videos, and experimenting with different boat setups.

Benefits and Joys of Model Yacht Racing

Participating in model yacht racing  can provide numerous benefits to enthusiasts, such as:

• Improving hand-eye coordination : The ability to control the sail and rudder simultaneously requires good hand-eye coordination that gets better with regular practice.
• Developing spatial intelligence : Reading the wind direction , setting sails at the right angle, and maneuvering the boat to get the most wind impact all require spatial intelligence skills that can develop over time.
• Enhancing problem-solving skills : Model yacht racing also challenges the brain to find the shortest course and the fastest way to the finish line, helping improve problem-solving skills .
• Socializing with other enthusiasts: The hobby provides an excellent opportunity to meet individuals with similar interests and network with them while sharing tips, tricks, and stories from one model yacht racer to another.
• Fostering friendly competition : Model yacht racing is a friendly and supportive environment that encourages fair competition while building camaraderie with fellow enthusiasts.

What skills can be developed through participating in model yacht racing?

Skills that can be developed through participating in model yacht racing include hand-eye coordination, strategic thinking, problem-solving, communication, and teamwork.

Model yacht racing offers participants an experience that combines hobby building and competitiveness in a unique and exciting manner. This challenging yet relaxing hobby is enjoyed by people of all ages who share a love for racing miniature sailboats. The beauty and tranquility of natural bodies of water truly add to the ambiance of the pastime. Plus, with each race, a sense of accomplishment and self-satisfaction is achieved, driving people to continue their participation in this hobby for extended periods. Model yacht racing clubs exist worldwide, creating an active community and fostering a friendly atmosphere that encourages individuals to develop their skills and compete with like-minded individuals. Moreover, with the increasing advancements in technology, participating in model yacht racing is becoming more accessible worldwide. One can easily buy affordable yet high-quality models and join local racing clubs. The addition of online clubs and websites has allowed enthusiasts to connect with other racers, exchange news and stories. Model yacht racing is undoubtedly a unique experience that combines competition, skill-building, excitement, and fascination at every turn. It is easy to see why it continues to be a beloved hobby for hobbyists worldwide.

In conclusion, model yacht racing is an excellent hobby that offers a unique combination of skills, competitiveness, and fun. It is ideal for individuals who love both building things and competing with them. The challenges of maneuvering the sailboat through water work perfectly to enhance an individual’s mind’s problem-solving abilities. This engaging sport offers endless opportunities for fun and competition, both in the water and on the shore.

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Introduction to the AMYA

​what the amya does.

Model Yacht Building

Introduction: Model Yacht Building

Model yacht building is a wonderful hobby for boaters who like the many different designs available for full scale yachts that can be made by several techniques. I started carving models of my ideas of boats at the tender age of 9 or 10. With a drawn knife, auger and bits, hammer and chisel, I made beautiful hull shapes emerge out of blocks of soft white pine. It was great fun. At age 11, I was given a Craftsman vibrating jig saw with 5" blades cut plywood frames and then planked them with strips of white pine. One of my first big models was of a Southbay Shore Bird. Its plans were found in "Sailing Craft" by Andrew Schoettle which has many other boat plans that I built from including the Larchmont "O" Boats. Uffa Fox published at leasst 4 large volumes of classic yacht plans with excellent descriptions of their characteristics which was wonderful reading to give me the feel of how things were done in those times. See my website at www.angelfire.com/fl/modelyachts and follow some of the links to learn more about what fun I have had over the years building models of boats I have owned or wished I had owned. I receive e-mails about once per month from those wanting the plans or frames I cut on my Ryobi 9" bandsaw with a 1/8" blade. My favorite yacht modle is the International One-Design 48" model of the full scale 33' 5" yacht class of that name started by the late Cornelius Shields of Larchmont Y.C., Larchmont, NY. I owned his famous "Aileen", IOD 25 which was his first boat of the class in 1935. I restored her in my backyard in Rye, NY and raced her in the Long Island Sound Fleet from 1972 to 1976. Upon retiring to Sarasota, FL in 1994, I started the IOD 48" Class of Vintage Model Yachts. Over 35 fiberglass hulls were made from my mold. I finished 6 models for others and have two on hand for match races in my backyard pond when visitors are interested. The keels had to be 3" deeper than to scale to achieve the stability for a model. They handle just like are real IOD. I started seriously building scale models while at Penn State in 1948 from "Your New Boat" a book by Yachting Editors that had many plans of popular boats of the times. One of my first models was a 36" model of the IOD. I hope whomever owns that model now will offer it back to me for sale. I still have a number of my first models of the Comet, Star, Snipe, Hampton, Blue Jay and Atlantic. I have built full scale Star and Jet 14 Class boats. Now, I have restired a 1970's Irwin 23 #24 to almost new condition. I extended the mast to carry a Star Class mainsail in light airs. The Irwin 23 is like a smaller version of the Pearson Ariel 25' 6" Class that I owned for 10 years. I founded the Ariel-Commander YRA which still flourishes in the San Francisco Bay Area. See my web site at www.angelfire.com/fl4/mft for photos of the Irwin 23 and links to other boats I have owned. Go to www.webshots.com for photos and slideshows of my boats by searching for "Thrasher's Boats". Click on some of the images to go to the slideshows. Join the AMYA at www.amya.org and follow the links to Vintage Model Yachts. There is a large group involved in building large model yachts like my 73" Vanja that had plans published by Popular Mechanics in 1936. I offer copies of Vanja and IOD 48" plans on my websites. I have fiberglass molds for the Vanja 73" and IOD 48". I have made 4 Vanja hulls and will make more for those who are interested in fiberglass copies. Many have ordered the Vanja plans to build from scratch. I have not yet seen finished scratch built Vanaja results from those for whom I made sets of frames. Some IOD 48" model builders have provided excellent photos of their boats which I plan to show on these pages. Stay tuned as I develop Model Yacht Building Instructables as the spirit moves. Sincerely, Milton Thrasher 941 966-9172 or 941 966-9179 for answering machine 4258 Hearthstone Drive Sarasota, FL 34238 [email protected] www.angelfire.com/fl4/mft www.angelfire.com/fl/modelyachts www.angelfire.com/fl5/mft

Step 1: Laser Cut Frames and Decks for Model Boats

Irwin Schuster, Secretary of the Tampa Bay Ship Model Society, ([email protected]) has laid out the IOD frames and decking for laser cutting. I offer them in various sizes on my web site at www.angelfire.com/fl4/mft The smaller sizes (13, 18 and 24) are true to scale. The larger sizes (33.4, 36 and 48) have deeper keels by 3" than the original plans so that they can be sailed by radio control.

Step 2: Solid Models

The best way to make solid models is by the bread and butter method. That is to make layers of wood that conform to the water line levels that as shown on the plans of the boats. They are glued together and then carved to shape. That saves a lot of effort compared to working with a solid block of wood. I offer templates for the layers which are called "lifts" that can be made any size on a copier. Small half models are very easy to make by use of templates. I cut a plexiglass profile and deck of the model on a band saw. I attach these to the lifts for the half model to prevent cutting too deeply when shaping the hull. This allows me to use a sanding machine with very rough grit without fear of cutting below the template.

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Atlantis by Thistle17 - FINISHED - Robbe

• model no 1130

By Thistle17 January 18, 2017 in RC Kits & Scratch building

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I have a client that wishes her late husband's Atlantis R/C model be completed as a static model. Parts are missing and I have just learned Krick has bought out the Robbe business. Can anyone shed light on Krick's intentions to re-release the models and parts?

Alternately, anyone out there have a kit or partial kit for sale?

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• 4 weeks later...

Help from anyone out here! Has anyone had any success contacting Krick Models in Germany? They just don't seem to respond to any of my queries.

• 3 weeks later...

I finally heard from Krick and they do have some spare parts. The masts are available but it proves to be a shipping problem due to their length. I have appealed to Ages of Sail to see if I can piggy back one of their ship ments.

• mtaylor and Canute

I have taken possession of the partially completed model (as of this post) and will begin a more detailed inventory of parts on hand and what is missing. Hopefully Krick Manufacturing will come through on the masts and we will see what else shakes out from their inventory as I progress. This thread will be periodically updated with progress.

The boat model is 54 inches long at the deck level and 13 3/8 inches of beam. The masted height will be approximately 64 inches. The hull is of high impact molded plastic. The keel is weighted with what appears to be lead. At this stage the model weighs about 45 lbs! Of note on closer inspection it has no transom I will finish it off in mahogany most likely. The deck is partially planked and although there is some extra deck material it is not sufficient. Also some of the deck planking has lifted as the adhesive used has dried up. I am planning a strip down of the deck planking and I will begin anew.

Below is a picture of the model as is. I have mounted it on a shop cart as it will necessarily have to be moved around due to it size and work access. The second picture is where I am headed. My client wishes the model to remain static so although there are some RC controls on board they will remain inactive.

(Those dangling ball and claw legs in the background are for a distant project).

• VACorsair , CaptainSteve , Seventynet and 2 others

After 3 1/2 hours of "prying" deck planks up the hull is now ready for re-planking. Some planks were lifted with a finger nail, others came up with a sharp chisel and prying. The deck was sanded down with 120 grit sand paper to flatten the residual glue/wood. I believe CA glue was used but why it didn't work over the entire deck is somewhat mysterious. The original deck planks appear to have been pine. They came as an accessory package. They are 5 X 1.5 mm and 10 inches long.  I am going to use some other material that is more dense and of the patina of boxwood. Oddly the directions do not suggest sealing the final deck surface, rather applying wax is recommended. That doesn't sound at all right to me for a RC model.

I read on another web site that the total cost of this vessel if fully outfitted could cost as much as $1800. The base kit was $700 at the time (circa 2012) and "accessories" were priced in the $90 and up range. The wood deck kit for example was $90! I feel it was a crazy way to market this kit. One would get 'sucked in' to a big expense if they were not paying attention,

Here is a view of the completely stripped down hull. The plastic units atop the hull are actually building forms that the cabin and hatch materials are fastened to. The smoke plastic becomes windows when the outer skin is applied.

I am slowly getting through the inventory of parts supplied by the owner. Many of the deck fittings I find are missing. I will spend a good deal of time tracking down reasonable substitues for this 1:20 scale model. For example there are 28 stanchions, ships wheel, life boat, air vents and more missing.

I have decided that the deck should be re-planked with mahogany or a combination of mahogany and a lighter wood such as box wood. I think since most of the deck furniture is mahogany this will blend well.  I'd like to try the Alaskan Cedar but it is a tad too yellow I think. Since one of my last posts I came across someone who had trouble gluing down planking with CA glue on ABS plastic. It was commented that the bond doesn't hold up. That is likely why I could lift some planks with a finger nail. I am tempted to try the new DAP "Rapid Fuse" 30 second adhesive. I will have to experiment before I commit to this method.

While waiting for the planking material I have moved onto the deck furniture. It is all die cut ply. The curious thing about the parts sheets is that not all of the required parts are on the undisturbed sheets. Not to be outdone, the "plans" do not call them out either. The instruction book is of little help as well. I guess I have been spoiled by the current generation of plans and instructions from our US companies. They are relatively simple structures so I do not anticipate issues.

I do perceive a challenge with the bulkwarks as they are missing. I plan to fashion them out of styrene pieces. The challenge is they have a fancy upper edge molding and a lower edge one a well that sits in the rabbett at the sheer line as seen in the picture above.

In applying the decking (wood) to the hull surface I asked DAP about Rapid Fuse General Purpose adhesive bonding integrity. The return stated that Rapid Fuse General Purpose will adequately bond wood to ABS plastic. I further asked about the bonding property of Styrene and ABS. The answer was that the bond was inadequate. This pretty much removes the plan to make the bulkwarks out of Styrene.

I have been decking this large model in boxwood and mahogany as disclosed earlier. This DAP Rapid Fuse adhesive is growing on me. Small amounts applied to the decking and held for 30 seconds (cure in 30 min) works well. As a matter of fact the adhesive quickly becomes tacky when the planks are laid down. To continue the case for this adhesive, one can lift and reposition the planking, if misaligned, soon after it is laid. No further adhesive is required. If it gets on the topside of the plank it does sand. Otherwise it behaves as CA does  especially on one's skin.

• 5 weeks later...

I have run into a problem with the boxwood planking made from purchased sheet goods. I ordered 3/64" (.047) sheet material and ripped the planking. To simulate the original material that came with the Atlantis I cut the 24 inch planks in half. As I began laying the planks I noticed significant variation in thickness of the planks across the 12" length. At first I thought is was the roughness of the ABS hull after I had sanded it down. I finally measured the plank thickness end to end and found as much as 10 thousands variation. I have learned that the vendor does try to control its variation =/- .005. I have been working with the vendor to try and correct this problem.

I now will measure all stock upon receipt and will be the wiser for doing so. The vendor is sending on a new batch of sheet stock for which I am grateful. In the meantime I have a good deal of sanding ahead of me.

• maaaslo and mtaylor

Been there, done that with the wood supply.  I now mik the wood and run it through a thicknesser before using.  A PITA but it pays off in the long run.

Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build:                                                                                              Past Builds:   La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans  - ON HOLD            Tri ton Cross-Section    

  NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                             HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64                

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                           On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                      Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0  (Abandoned)           

• 1 month later...

Well after more hours than I care to add up I finished sanding  the deck planking. As I mentioned earlier I foolishly laid planking without checking its thickness over length uniformity and as a result had quite a time of leveling the planking especially on the starboard side (that is where I got a bit wiser). In addition to material problems I ran into 2 other problems with the hull. The first is I discovered that the hull 'half's' port and starboard were slightly different. This in combination with plank over plank placement/tolerance build up became a real challenge to give a completely matched deck pattern along the center line of the hull. It came out relatively well but there was a price to pay doing so with a combination of pattern making to nicely fit the planks. Secondly the hull deck (substrate) was slighltly concave just forward of the mid cabin on the starboard side. I managed to get most of it out but there is still a slight depression to my touch.

I am now faced with a dilemma with simulated deck plank length. The material used in planking was 12" long so there are a number of butt ends at non uniform places along the beam. Most modelers I have seen on line ignored how a real boat is built and so paid no attention to where the deck beams might have been. The end result was the planking on other models looks like a herring bone pattern. I am working to scribe in some simulated planks obeying some semblance of uniformity. I have included a picture of results to date. Hard to see the plank ends though.

• Seventynet , mtaylor , Robin Lous and 2 others

Patrick Matthews

Sorry to come to this party late!

But a couple links:

Taylor Sparks' build of Atlantis:  http://sparksstudios.com/boatyard/atlantis.htm   and some others too.

My build of the Robbe Valdivia (with many similar construction features):  https://matthewsmodelmarine.wordpress.com/writings/robbes-valdivia-rc-schooner/

Hopefully you have the complete Robbe instruction set? Used to be available online... I have an e-copy for Valdivia, maybe Taylor has Atlantis.

The hull should be vac-formed ABS (not injection molded styrene).

Valdivia's decking is real teak, with some mahogany trim. The teak planks are a bit overscale in the grain department, but are soft enough to bend sideways. 

Gluing with CA is the plan, but have plenty of CA "kicker" on hand, as the CA is stubborn about setting on the porous wood.

Not sure what was specified for Atlantis, but on Valdivia there were white plastic strips to use as caulking, and instructions on proper joggling and plank-end staggering.

A scraper was the best way to smooth out planks and caulking; avoid sanding, as even light sanding can soften the plastic and drive its dust into the wood grain.

BTW, I waxed my wood deck, never had a problem after sailing. Real boats get wet, no? 

• hexnut , tasmanian and mtaylor

Matthews Model Marine

Model FUNCTION as well as FORM.

Get your boats wet!

Pat I had seen your planking photo on line before. Splendid execution and results. The Atlantis doesn't have teak as best I can tell. It is more like weathered pine and of poor quality. The ends of the planks look like they were chopped and poorly so. I scrapped the material and used box wood and mahogany. I will be putting up the results shortly

 The client apparently lost the bulwarks pieces so I am fabricating them at this very moment. I am using straight grain maple milled to fit the rabbet on the hull and adding a basswood height extension as my maple material was only 3/4". The basswood will also allow me to add a mahogany cap rail to this improvisation when all is said and done. This would have been infinitely easier had the parts been available. I have contacted Krick in Germany who bought out Robbe and they have indicated they will be sending the masts in a shipment to Ages of Sail and then onto me. I hope!!!!!!

Luckily I have the instruction manual and drawings. The drawings are not to scale so I am having to apply some relative size approximation for sizes and adjust for parts I can find on line. The bulkwarks and stanchions are a good example of this.

And thank you for the link to your build. It will help.

• hexnut and mtaylor

ABS is a tough material to glue to, and I'm always leary about things like polyester and epoxy resins' adherence as well. Maybe less of an issue for a display model, but the ABS hull can flex and pop these things loose.

If the defects aren't deep, I'd start with regular or 2-part primer filler as the first coat, then use the appropriate glazing compound to take care of what's left.

But yes- clean, most any primer, and most any top coat.

For gluing: Robbe recommends the 2-part methacrylate adhesive "Stabilit Express"- expensive and hard to find in the US. For joints requiring a wee bit of flex (anything attached to the ABS hull), I find that rubberized CA (aka "tire cement") is perfect. It has a bit of flex, so it won't crack like regular CA; it can be built up in thick layers (use CA kicker to help it cure), yet cures hard enough to grind or sand. I use it when mounting bow thruster tubes through fiberglass or ABS hulls, for example.  

Pat as you observe ABS is a difficult material to adhere to. In terms of glue, I did find that the DAP Rapid Fuse, General Purpose worked well. I used it on the decking and even though the deck does flex the material has stayed put. I had to replace some decking due to thickness problems and the only thing that excavated the plank was a sharp chisel and carefully carving it out.This will be a static model so water, temperature swings and UV will not be problematical. I am curious about the rubberized CA though. Can you direct me to a manufacturer and identity?

In regard to painting, I am about to test paint the rudder so I will feedback the results.

Most any RC hobby shop will carry this or similar:

http://www.bsi-inc.com/hobby/ic_2000.html

The image shows the thick stuff building a fillet on a Robbe Happy Hunter kort assembly, with ABS hull.

Heard some good news yesterday. Krick came through and shipped masts to Ages of Sail and they will in turn provide them to me. Krick could not ship them directly as European post services do not permit packages of that length in their systems. The masts are 1400 mm long. I can't thank these folks enough for being so supportive!!

Guest Tim I.

Great news!

This has been an incredibly busy summer so working on this model has been almost impossible. However yesterday I managed to sneak in some time and decided to work the bulwarks for this huge model. I am driven by the fact that it has to be painted soon and I do not have a spray booth. Given the size and extent of painting required it has to be done out of doors. The bulwarks need to be applied to the hull pre- painting. The work shown  is related to the scuppers. There are 5 each side. I tried hand fashioning but almost knew before I started I wasn't going to be satisfied with the uniformity of each to its neighbor. Luckily one of our club members loaned me his Sherline vertical mill. This machine has made it a breeze. 

Mounted in the table vise is a block of pine rabbeted to accept the stepped bulwarks. The block elevates the bulwark and enables use of the miniature "quick grip" clamps to clear the mill table. Using a 1/8" router bit I am able to carefully mill the scupper slots to a high degree of uniformity. The bulwarks where the machining is taking place is maple and machining produces a clean cutout in-spite of the slower speed of the mill drive. Prudence dictates multiple passes to cut through the material.

I am sold on a vertical mill and plan to acquire one soon.

Just an aside. This mill is a Model 4000 and does not behave well at slow speed. I believe the brushes are worn and the commutator is dirty. Given its vintage the motor must be disassembled as the brushes are internal. Newer models have brushes external.  I will be fixing this for the club member as a thank you for his loan.

The masts (and booms) arrived yesterday via Ages of Sail from Krick in Germany. These folk were so good about following through with my request. It is heartening to know some people still care about customer support!

• 2 weeks later...

The second last step to completing the bulkwarks prior to assembly was to enable the fastening system on the model. Six, 2.2 X 6.5 mm flat head screws were provided for each side. Once again using the Sherline mill, 6 clearance holes were drilled and then counter sunk with a larger drill bit to enable "fill in" so as not to show after painting. The mill proved invaluable in this seemingly simple operation as it enabled accurate depth and alignment control of the machining process.

Looks good Joe!

I have started early stages of painting the hull and bulwark area. I was advised that Tamiya spray should work just fine with ABS plastic. I am told it does not need to be primed. Having no experience with Tamiya paints (spray) and/or ABS I am at the mercy of others at the moment. Anyone out there that can confirm or refute that advice I surely like to hear back.

After altogether too much time and effort I have nearly completed the machining, attachment and refining of the bulkwarks to the model. My lament of course is if I had had the original kit supplied bulkwarks this would have been a non event. I guess I needed to vent.

The actual bulkwark mounting was a lesson in humility and frustration. I read somewhere that the kit version probably had some adhesive backed tape to help mount them. Anything I could think of just didn't seem right so I attached them with the supplied screws countersunk and filled (and filled and filled again - I used auto body Nitro Stan glazing compound which has a tendency to shrink). To further secure them to the hull I applied the inboard section with DAP Inst Cure. The bow section fit was tricky and required not only Easy Sand filler but also spot glazing. The inboard port and starboard, at the bow, sections of the bulkwarks were sanded with a thin scraper with sand paper both sides to get a crisp fit at this junction. To facilitate this the forward most mounting screws were backed off just enough to allow the scrapper/sandpaper sanding.

Once mounted it was obvious there was a void where the bulwarks met the molded rabbet of the hull. I simulated the kit molding by applying doll house furniture chair rail(180 thousands). That disguised the void quite well I believe.

• hexnut , mtaylor and Jack12477

I have primed and painted one coat of the Rustoleum product for plastics. I wiped the hull down with automotive de-greaser/cleaner and sprayed the primer. After it dried I sanded the surface down with 220 wet paper. I used the de-greaser/cleaner again and applied the paint layer.The good news is that it adheres well and dries to a hard finish. The bad news is that spray cans aren't really a good device to spray any paints. Even though I used what I believe are good application practices I found that the smoothness of the painted hull doesn't muster. I will have to spend some time wet sanding and repeating the process to get close to the results I am expecting. I may even have to rub the final product out and spray an overall clear coat.

I have to mask the waterline and the hull body color area for the final hull finish. I am going to use 3M or equivalent automotive masking tape that leaves little to no evidence of ridges at masked area intersections.

An update on painting. I changed the base color of the hull to a pure white as the Navajo White just didn't strike me as the right hull color. Took extra precaution and wet sanded the hull 220 then 400. Wiped the hull down with auto body degreaser/cleaner with a lint free cloth and used all my (limited) skill in painting. The results were better than expected as there was little over spray. It is a low humidity day so that helped immensly. Onto the two tone hull color and waterline painting the client liked. This northeast weather is not only welcome it is a gift since I do not have a paint booth.

• mtaylor and hexnut

The painting saga continues. After painting the hull 48 hours earlier (per manufacturer directions) I observed a wrinkle pattern on the starboard side about 4 inches long. At the time I assumed it was surface contamination but that is not proving out. I sanded the area down and applied the overcoat of a royal blue color just above the waterline. Much to my dismay it repeated the same wrinkle marking. I searched the internet and now find this is not uncommon. I went ahead and called Rustoleum Customer Service and they indicated it was not contamination (as I had described my process). Rather they claim it is due to the under coat material, the creamy white, had not dried completely. I explained there was over a week between old and new coatings. That did not change his recommendations. Here was the advice I got:

1. Dry sand the area of concern, 2. Wash down the area with a little dish soap in a water solution, 3. Wash area with water only, 4. Dry it thoroughly. 5. Repaint.

Not too convinced of this but have no other solution as many on line have also lamented. He also added the best way to use this paint is to apply 2 wet coats in close succession so they paint layers fuse together.

An update: I completed Step 1 above and indeed found that the wrinkle did go all the way through the overcoat of white down into the Navajo White coat. So they certainly did have that part correct. I am somewhat hesitant to just plunge ahead and paint without a light prime coat (lessons learned from my youthful days in auto body painting). As I am running out of fair weather I am leaning to follow the manufacturer advice and repaint. My reasoning is that I have now exposed the paint layer that was still uncured so I should have now exposed it to better drying. We will see. Hope this is useful information to others and helps advoid disappointment.

What a disaster! This is probably the last time I use this paint (Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover). It did it again! Per their instructions I sanded it down, washed it with a little dish detergent and water, waited 5 days and reapplied paint on a 74 degree day with low RH. I am now back to Rustoleum Customer Support for answers. What a set back.

Just curious Joe, would rubbing compound fix it?  Is it in the same spot?  I wonder if there's a defect in the hull right there if is as I used to run into that way back when I did model cars.

• Jack12477 and hexnut

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