best yacht windows

Choice Of Pane Material

Maritech windows can be made with panes of plexiglass, Lucite S.A.R. (super abrasion resistant), tempered glass, or upon special request, Lexan Margard.  All are avail-able in various tint colors as well as clear.  One of our design engineers can assist in the pane and thickness choice best for your particular needs.

Many Standard Configurations

Since Maritech windows have been the choice of various manufacturers as standard equipment, we have many production patterns in stock.  When requesting a quotation, please give us the boat type and length as well as the “block” dimensions so that we can check your windows against our patterns. Because Maritech Industries makes windows as they are ordered, changing the size of your existing windows can be done at little to no extra cost.

Very friendly and informative , estimate and turn around time were exactly as they said, after sending a template , the two windows i ordered installed effortlessly and fit perfectly, I should also mention pricing was more reasonable than 4 other manufactures i spoke with for same product

Cannot believe anyone has not yelped this business yet.  I have an old US Yachts boat.  The original window maker went out of business but somehow that business found its way to Mark Plastics. I dealt directly with Mark  I had just a small single window but you would have thought I was placing a huge order.  Mark spent a ton of time with me on the phone, walked me through what he needed and built me a replacement boat window within a week. Absolutely fabulous and a big shoutout to San Francisco Boat Works for steering me to Mark Plastics.

Mark at Mark Plastics is great! I'm about to place my third order with him, which will be the final batch needed to replace all ports in my old 1976 Islander 36. The new ports were a perfect fit, which was a big relief as I had to lug them on an international flight. Mark's office is low-tech - best to call and leave a message. He always calls back.

Love the new windows and nice to be able to see through the windows now! (old plastic window were crazed and with the sun on them it was like having shades pulled down)! The color tint is perfect! The windows went in easy with just a bit of trimming! The opening galley window sure helps remove the moisture while cooking. Many Thanks for a job well done!! Duane Sheehan

December 2023

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Dynamic window materials

Flexible clear vinyl, shown here, is just one option for boat windows. Polycarbonate and acrylic are the other main choices. Each have their advantages in specific applications. Photo: Sailrite.

Fabricators and boat owners have a world of choices in windows.

When it comes to choosing their windows, most boat owners don’t want to make it too complicated—they want a quality product that will last at a reasonable price.

As fabricators know, however, it’s not quite that simple.

In fact, according to Zach Grant, marketing manager at Sailrite®, a distributor of marine fabrics and supplies for do-it-yourselfers in Columbia City, Ind., boat owners really need to consider at least six different things when looking for windows: clarity, scratch resistance, UV resistance, stain/chemical resistance, flexibility and cost.

“Actually, though,” Grant says, “longevity is what most boat owners are concerned with. But those six factors are what will contribute to how long windows will last.”

“The typical boat owner is concerned with enclosure functionality and durability,” adds Craig Zola, vice president of marketing and distribution for Herculite® Products Inc., a manufacturer of marine fabrics and materials, including Strataglass, located in Fort Lauderdale, Fla. “Windows are expensive and boat owners want clear products that last.”

With all the considerations that go into purchasing windows, boat owners face a myriad of choices. They rely on fabricators to not only sell and install their windows, but to help them wade through the many options and make recommendations based on their individual needs and wants.

This dodger, the work of Dorsal LLC, a canvas shop in Sturgeon Bay, Wis., has an enclosure made of 40 gauge Strataglass, from Herculite Products Inc.

Three main categories

First, there are three main window types: flexible clear vinyl, polycarbonate sheets and acrylic sheets.

Here are the qualities of each, as described by Zola:

Flexible clear vinyl: “This is a great choice for many boat owners because of its breathability, suppleness and recent advances in technology like Strataglass’s scratch-resistant and UV-resistant coatings. This material is clear plastic and is soft and flexible, so it can be rolled up when not in use. It also has excellent stability and durability, and is inherently fire-retardant, waterproof and mildew resistant.”

Polycarbonate: “This is also a super-clear plastic, but it’s semirigid, making it hard and nearly unbreakable. The material can also be coated with UV-resistant technology and is also waterproof. However, it can’t be rolled up like vinyl and it can cost more to replace when damaged.”

Acrylic: “This is another semirigid option that is inherently UV resistant. It’s clear and strong. It’s not as scratch resistant, but scratches are usually repairable. It’s also not flexible enough to be rolled up.”

Given the clear difference in attributes among the categories, the type of vessel a boat owner has (along with personal preferences) may make it somewhat obvious which window type is appropriate. But within the categories, there are important distinctions that may not seem so apparent at first glance.

This Ocean Alexander was done by Dorsal LLC with Clear2sea UV, an acrylic enclosure. Photos: Dorsal LLC.

For example, many leading manufacturers of flexible clear vinyl, such as Strataglass, O’Sea®, Regalite® and CrystalClear, are made using the “press-polish” method.

“Pressed-polished window products are made by taking two layers of clear vinyl, which are heated until on the verge of melting and then pressed together between highly polished chrome plates to ensure a consistent thickness which is smooth and free of flaws,” Grant explains. “That creates one thicker, polished sheet with excellent optical clarity.”

Pressed-polished sheets offer the best tint consistency, clarity and dimensional stability, he says.

Saving with extruded

A less expensive option for flexible windows is extruded clear vinyl. “The raw material is heated and extruded through a series of roller presses to the desired thickness,” Grant notes. “That allows it to be produced quickly at a low cost.”

Boat windows at O’Sullivan Films Inc., Winchester, Va., are produced under the O’Sea® and Regalite® brands. O’Sea is the company’s coated line. Photo: O’Sullivan Films Inc.

The softness and flexibility of extruded vinyl means the surface may be more prone to scratching, he says, but for a boat owner looking at price, it can be an appropriate choice for applications that don’t see prolonged exposure to the environment.

Extruded vinyl has excellent clarity with negligible defects and is a cost-effective alternative for most users, according to Linda Pieta, sales coordinator at Robeco Inc., a Garden City, N.Y., supplier of plastic films and sheeting, including extruded vinyl that is available plain or with a scratch-resistant coating.

There are additional options for the budget-minded, but they come with trade-offs, Pieta says. “When price is a consideration, the least expensive vinyls are calendered and laminated, but they can have imperfections such as gels and flow lines,” she says. “If the customer doesn’t worry about the window being perfect, then they can use those products.”

Coated or uncoated?

As Zola noted, advances in technology have increased the quality and popularity of coated boat windows, but many manufacturers continue to make both coated and uncoated products available, and not just because of price concerns. For example, O’Sullivan Films Inc., Winchester, Va., makes coated products under the O’Sea brand and uncoated products under the Regalite banner, according to Julie Tinsman, the company’s senior sales manager.

“There are people who want only a coated product, but also those who want only uncoated, thinking they might corrode or for some other reason,” Tinsman says. “People have different theories, but it often just comes down to past experience or personal preferences.”

Manufacturers and fabricators both point out that coated window materials help prevent or minimize a number of problems, including scratching. But exposure to the sun may be the most important consideration. “Exposure to UV is the leading cause of clear vinyl failure,” according to Grant. “UV exposure leads to the evaporation of plasticizers, which keeps the vinyl flexible. This leads to the vinyl becoming brittle, cloudy and eventually cracking. Coatings lock in the plasticizers, allowing them to stand up better.”

Tinsman also says that anyone who boats in an “environmentally tough area” should consider coated products. “A plane, for example, can spew fuel that can damage the vinyl on boats,” so if you boat near an airport, coated products can protect against that.

In addition, she says, the O’Sea coated product also makes is easier for wiping off suntan lotion, bug spray or other chemicals that might be used around boats.

There are, however, reasons besides price not to choose coated windows. “Strataglass and O’Sea coated vinyl products will not work with HH-66 (vinyl cement),” Grant says, “which makes it impossible to glue the new vinyl to an old vinyl border. So you can only use it if you are going to sew the material.”

Recent advances in UV- and scratch-resistance are selling points for Strataglass, used on the boat shown here. Fabricated by Marco Canvas & Upholstery LLC, Marco Island, Fla., it features an exclusive See2Sea™ bonded acrylic enclosure with large pin-up front V panel, heat molded corners and Herculite® Riviera Marine Fabric®. Photo: Marco Canvas & Upholstery LLC.

Gauge is a consideration

Thickness is another consideration when choosing windows. “Determining the best gauge is where the fabricator needs to work very closely with the boat owner,” Tinsman says.

Charles Klein, founder and owner of Dorsal LLC, a canvas shop in Sturgeon Bay, Wis., says he generally recommends 40 gauge for forward windows and 30 gauge for side and aft windows. “Side and aft windows are more likely to get rolled up, and 30 gauge is a little more malleable,” he says.

Klein favors acrylic windows for his customers. “It is naturally scratch and UV resistant, without requiring coatings, so if it is scratched, it can be buffed out. Also, the clarity is stunning—clearer than glass.”

Greg Keeler, owner of Oyster Creek Canvas Co. in Bellingham, Wash., uses a polycarbonate, Tuffak® AR (formerly Makrolon® AR), for many of his projects where the windows are not going to be removed. Keeler favors 60 gauge in that application, but will drop down to 40 gauge in some instances. “If somebody wants to replace a window and they want to just get a few more years out of their canvas, 40 gauge is good because it’s easier to work with,” he says.

Longevity is critical

Thicker gauge materials often improve a window’s life span, and that’s often the most critical part of the equation, Klein says.

“Is it worth paying the extra money for a better product?” Klein asks. “Labor can cost significantly more than the cost of materials,” he says. “Some products will last 10 years or more, but others—like extruded vinyl without any UV or scratch-resistant coatings—might give you only three or four seasons. It’s kind of foolish to spend money to come back in three or four years and pay for labor again.”

Fabricators aren’t usually interested in doing projects with inferior materials anyway, Keeler says, and it’s not necessarily because of the money.

“When I build something, it doesn’t have to be top of the line,” Keeler explains. “But when I put the effort in, I want it to be nice and I want it to look good.”

Jeff Moravec is a freelance writer from Minneapolis, Minn.

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How to choose windows for superyacht wheelhouses

Windows play an important role in the design of an efficient superyacht bridge. In addition to the obvious – clear views and safety (in terms of strength) at sea – there are other considerations that must be addressed. Glare, reflections and obscured vision are the three culprits, and, unfortunately, they can ruin a well-designed wheelhouse.

Captain Emile Bootsma of Blue Moon says visibility provided by the bridge’s windows is critical to the vessel’s safe operation.

‘It is the most important consideration in bridge design,’ he says. ‘Navigation by day or by night is still very much a visual exercise, and I have seen too many bridges where the visibility is so poor that you could barely see your own bow, let alone any other ship that may be navigating in your vicinity.

‘Windows need to be as big as possible; the view angle needs to be as large as possible; consoles need to be as low as possible; and bridge furniture needs to be as unobtrusive as possible.’

Traditional windows that slope aft at the top may look more pleasing from an exterior styling perspective, but they become problematic at night by reflecting light from the console, a condition known as backscatter.

An example of the reflection problem can be seen in the 38.4m motor yacht Time , designed by Tom Fexas and built in 1987 by Palmer Johnson.

The boat was avant-garde in many ways and had a state-of-the-art wheelhouse. Unfortunately, the rake of the wheelhouse windscreen was quite severe, and at night, the reflections from the electronic displays (CRTs in those days) and lights from the control panels made night operations difficult at best.

This type of window also results in increased heat gain during the day that adds to the load required for cooling.

The heat gain can be mitigated to some extent by using a longer exterior brow and by installing glass with coatings to reduce thermal transmission. But of the three basic window styles, the direct sunlight will have the greatest effect with this one in terms of thermal loading and in terms of maintenance, unless materials are chosen that will fare well under constant exposure to ultraviolet and infrared light

Another problem can occur with aft-sloping windows, as illustrated by the 44m Heesen L’Aquasition.

In this boat, which had award-winning styling by Gerhard Gilgenast, the acute angle of the windscreen resulted in reduced headroom in way of the wheelhouse console. The solution: the helmsman would remove a teak grate in the sole, allowing him to stand in a recessed stainless-steel pan, thus providing enough headroom to perform his duties without craning his neck.

Although moderately effective, this was an unacceptable issue that should have been resolved early in the design process.

The number and placement of mullions can affect visibility. Put too many panes in a windscreen and the mullions will affect the helmsman’s oblique visibility by obscuring the glass. It should be carefully addressed, because large panes, as desirable as they may be, require greater strength, thus adding significant weight, which results in the need for heavier mullions… and so the design spiral begins.

There is, however, a benefit of aft-sloping glass. Generally, a bridge console that is installed below aft-sloping windows must be positioned farther aft in the wheelhouse to reduce height conflicts between crew and the windows. This means that the consoles are deeper fore and aft and have increased space inside them for equipment, allowing it to be located in close proximity to its control devices.

Vertical (plumb) windows have a far more contemporary look and will reduce reflections from equipment in the console and glare from the sun, but they will create reflections on the panes along the opposite side of the boat. Windows that slope forward at the top, often called ‘cab’ windows, offer exceptional day and night visibility, which is why this style is used almost exclusively on commercial and military vessels.

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Overview of Our Marine Windows Products

Standard Duty Fixed Windows – Series 1150

The Series 1150 are standard duty fixed windows. These frames can be bent to with a 2-1/2” or 3-0” radius corner to virtually any size or shape.

Standard Duty Sliding Window – Series 1200

Standard duty sliding windows offer your choice of front-to-rear (forward open with aft fixed), rear-to-front (forward fixed with aft open) or double-sliding glass.

Heavy Duty Fixed Windows – Series 1250

The Series 1250 is our heavy duty fixed window. Our heavy duty fixed marine windows are glazed with 3/8″ or 1/2″ solid tempered safety glass.

Top Hinge – Vented Windows – Series 1275

The Series 1275 is our heavy duty top hinged window. This window is typically specified for use as an operable option windshield where ventilation or communication with the deck is required.

Houseboat Elite Windows – Series 1600

Features our proprietary “Motion Slider Track” – providing smooth operation and the kind of longevity not found in other windows. The Series 1600 sets the standard for a top-of-the-line single pane window.

Houseboat Elite Dual Pane Windows – Series 1800

Series 1800 Motion Windows incorporate dual pane glass—providing many product benefits including superior insulation, minimal air and wind intrusion, reduced condensation, and noise reduction.

The Motion Windows Advantage

Peninsula Glass Company has been in business since 1975 and is family-owned. In 2005, we received the prestigious Excellence in Family Business Award from Oregon State University.

Gebo Marine Glazing

More over 50 years market leader in the field of marine glazing and industrial solutions for glazing, entry doors and hatches..

Commercial shipping

Commercial shipping requires safe certified and classified marine window products. That is why the professional shipbuilding industry opts for Gebo. Read more about this.

Recreational boating

Yacht owners and ship architects consciously choose Gebo when buying or building a yacht. The high quality and finish guarantee a luxurious, sporty appearance.

Automotive industry

Gebo is also an excellent supplier of quality glazing products in the automotive industry, such as fixed windows, sliding windows, semi-sagging windows and folding windows.

Gebo manufactures high-quality safety doors and hacthes for various industries, including wind farms and oil platforms.

Gebo is a specialist in the field of refit. We will give you free advice and will analyze the best solution to increase the value and comfort of your ship.

Our products

The right choice.

Choosing the right product for a ship, yacht or boat requires a good understanding of available techniques, materials and usage applications. What is the effect of a ship window on the rigidity of the ship’s construction? Which connections are watertight under which circumstances? Which glass thickness matches which wheather condition and isolation requirements? Gebo was founded in 1964. Since then we have gained extensive experience in designing, assembling and the installation of top-quality ship windows, deck hatches and portlights. Gebo is market leader and the expert in the marine glazing industry and has a solution for all your requirements.

Sustainability

Gebo products stand for sustainability. The right choice for ship windows results in a well isolated ship, which is crucial to preserve the interiour such as veneer and lacquer work. Good isolation prevents a common problem in yacht building: weathering paneling and upholstery from the inside. You can prevent high maintenance and repair costs if your yacht builder or repairer chooses ship window products from Gebo such as the Slimline Comfort and Thermic Line series.

3 Reasons why consumers choose only our quality marine windows, hatches and portlights

Gebo marine windows stand for luxury and quality . From luxury river yachts to ultra modern seaworthy (sailing) yachts. Customers in this segment want everything to be perfect. The entire look and feel of the ship must suit the future owner and leave nothing to be wished for.

Gebo stands for safety . Windows, portlights and hatches in a ship or yacht serve primarily to ensure that the skipper and her crew have a good overview at all times. That’s why Gebo produces products which are Ocean Class certified.

Gebo ensures low ownership and maintenance costs . The right quality products prevent high maintenance and repair costs due to damage caused by leakage and weathering.

Yacht builders and owners choose Gebo

Consumers, yacht- and shipbuilders as also marine architects often pay too little attention to marine glazing. All too often this leads to higher costs in construction, maintenance and repair. These costs can be prevented by involving a specialist such as Gebo at the start of a purchase, a new construction or refit project.

Prevent the most common problems in yacht building and refit. Choose Gebo products. Prevent moisture and mold, which leads to higher maintenance costs. Ensure good visibility that is beneficial to your safety and that of others. Maintain the luxurious appearance and quality of your yacht or ship by choosing quality products with high-quality finish.

How Gebo improves your products & services.

Safety above all..

A skipper sails a lot safer with Gebo windows that do not fog up, windows that can be heated and are of a solid quality. This is how Gebo products really contribute on keeping marine professional safe.

Environmentally friendly.

Unlike marine windows made of plastic, we at Gebo take care of the environment. Aluminum marine windows are 95% recyclable. This is one of the reasons Gebo deliberately maintains the production of quality products based on aluminum. In addition, the lifespan of an aluminum ship windows is far much longer than any other alternative.

Quality experience.

Shipbuilders already know. If you want a yacht or a ship with a luxurious appearance and experience high quality with low maintenance costs? You’ll choose Gebo products.

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Gebo as brand was created more over 50 years ago and with a single vision: to supply boatbuilders with glazing products that would enhance the appearance, and the value of the craft in which they were fitted.

Our Address

Gebo Marine Glazing B.V. Versterkerstraat 1, 1322 AN Almere Postbus 60277, 1320 AH Almere Nederland Tel: (+31) 36 521 12 12 Mail: [email protected]

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Marine Windows

For use in:.

• Fishing Boats
• Luxury Houseboats
• Pilot House, Salon, Windshield and Side Windows for Boats

Fixed or sliding windows for boats , houseboats and yachts, are custom built to meet your specific requirements. Whether you need lightweight windows or heavy-duty windows designed to endure the most severe conditions, our craftsmen can build the window for you. Our single pane and insulated windows are available in a variety of widths and can be custom built with either radius or mitered (square) corners. Our window frames are available in your choice of  anodized clear (silver) marine grade aluminum or a selection of powder coat colors.

The design of a Peninsula Glass Coastal Motion marine window is limited only by your imagination. Many choices including glass tint, frame style and shape are options that help you custom build your own window. Glass tints range from clear, solex (green), solar bronze, solar gray, solar cool bronze (mirror finish) and dark gray. We can produce shapes ranging from rectangles, single slopes, squares, parallelograms, and circles. Other choices such as direction of slide, thickness of glass, and the method of mounting are also available.

We view each customer’s requirements with a wealth of experience, a reputation for innovation and an unparalleled level of quality and service. Our team is dedicated to bringing you the highest quality products. Our state-of-the-art manufacturing techniques, consistent high-quality, and on-time deliveries define us as leaders in the market place. Let our experienced staff co-develop a production specific solution for your window needs. Visit https://www.boatwindows.com for more information.

Related: 

Marine Glass: Quick Shopping Guide

What Boat Dock Accessories Do You Need?

Measuring Marine Windows:

How Do I Measure For My New Windows?

Key Benefits

• Custom Sized and Shaped to Meet Individual Specifications
• Clamp Grip Installation
• Fixed & Sliding Configurations
• Tempered Glass, Laminated Safety Glass, Acrylics & Polycarbonates Available
• Anodized Aluminum or Powder Coat Frames
• Select Radius or Mitered Corners Available

Check The Specs:

• Series 1200 (1/4” Sliding)
• Series 1600 (1/4” Fixed)
• Series 1250 (3/8” or 1/2″ Fixed)
• Series 1275 (3/8” vented – top hinge)

We are excited about the opportunity to add you to our family. Please help us describe you needs by getting started here

The Best Materials for Replacement Boat Windows, Screens, And Windshields

Home › News › The Best Materials for Replacement Boat Windows, Screens, And Windshields

Looking for a new or for replacement boat window, screen, or windshield? Getting confused by all the different options? As part of our ongoing commitment to sharing our extensive knowledge of marine and boat plastics, we have put together a new guide.

Today’s guide covers the best materials for replacement boat windows, screens, and windshields.

In this guide we cover:

The different types of marine plastics

• A quick overview of each material – acrylic, Perspex®, polycarbonate
• A summary of the best materials for replacement boat windows, screens, and windshields

Related reading:

Looking to learn more about the different types of marine and boat plastics?

Here are a couple of articles we have recently published:

The Different Types of Marine & Boat Plastics

Replacement Boat Windows and Screens: Acrylic Vs Glass

There are three core materials that are used in the marine industry. They are:

Polycarbonate

Each material is highly suitable for boat windows, screens, and windshields, and offer a wide range of benefits.

A quick overview of each material – acrylic, Perspex®, and polycarbonate

Here’s a quick overview of each material.

Acrylic is a highly durable, versatile material. Acrylic is incredibly difficult to break and is highly weatherproof and waterproof.

It is also resistant to sea and salt spray, making it a favourable choice for boat windows, screens and shields.

For boat owners looking for a new or replacement screen, window or shield, Perspex® is a fantastic choice.

Perspex® is:

• Highly durable
• Weather-resistant
• Shatter-resistant

In addition to boat screens, windshields and windows, Perspex® is often used when manufacturing curved boat windows and screens .

Related reading

If you need a s curved boat window or screen, have a read of our article covering the advantages of Perspex® & acrylic for curved boat screens & windows (link to blog).

Polycarbonate is made from a clear plastic and is an excellent choice for boat owners looking for a new screen, window or shield.

Polycarbonate is

Seasoned seafarers will be pleased to know, that polycarbonate boat windows offer maximum visibility, and are generally considered to be nearly unbreakable.

Furthermore, polycarbonate can be coated with scratch and UV-resistant coatings. This provides additional protection and longevity – perfect for budget conscious boat owners.

A summary of the best materials for replacement boat windows, screens, and windshields.

Hopefully you are now armed with more valuable information now, than you were at the start of this article.

Acrylic, Perspex® and polycarbonate are excellent materials to use when manufacturing a new or replacement screens, windows, or boat windshields.

Whilst each material is unique in form, the core benefits are similar. They are:

• Aesthetically pleasing
• Cost-effective

Looking for a replacement window, screen, or windshield for your boat?

With decades of industry experience, you will be in safe hands with Hampshire Plastics.

Call us today on 023 9248 6633 for free advice, or to enquire about our services.

Related news and insights

New Bespoke Cut Boat Windows

The team at Hampshire Plastics recently worked on new boat windows for a customer nearby.

Glass Look Acrylic Boat Windows

We recently created a custom-made replacement glass-look acrylic screen for a speed boat.

How to create a replacement curved boat window

Creating a curved window from acrylic for a boat involves a few steps. Here’s a general guide to help you get started.

What are boat windows made of?

So, what are boat windows made of? There are many choices, factors include: boat’s size, purpose and budget. Read on to find out more

The different types of boat window materials

When it comes to the different types of boat window materials, there are four key options. Choosing the right boat window material is important.

Case study: A drape moulded yacht flyscreen

We recently helped a customer create a replacement flyscreen for their yacht.

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boat window

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Taylor Made is a leading supplier of tempered safety glass to the marine industry. We provide glass in a virtually unlimited variety of forms, sizes and tints. Our advanced production methods enable us to “bend” glass geometry to even ...

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S/V Violet Hour

Sailing adventures in the pacific northwest.

How To: Replace Frameless Acrylic Windows on a Boat with the VHB Tape Method

Now nearing five years into owning our 1984 C&C , we’re finally getting around to replacing the badly weathered acrylic cabin windows. Our windows weren’t leaking (much) – a common reason to replace fixed ports, but were old enough that they were badly crazed and more translucent than transparent. We have frameless windows, also known as surface mounted portlights.

Acrylic plastic doesn’t last forever, and some say as little as 6-10 years is all it takes before you start getting UV damage in the form of spiderwebbing lines (crazing). Since we live aboard, having windows we can see clearly out of is a big livability improvement. How many people can honestly say they live in a home without transparent windows? Most houses have glass, which doesn’t craze like plastic does.

We try to avoid working on cosmetic projects (although this is more than cosmetic, since it allows us to see better), but now that we’ve finished 3 years worth of higher priority refit items (like the rig, rudder , etc), we have the luxury of spending some time on lower priority things. And this is a good one for our current cruising phase because it’s relatively low cost but high in time requirements. And we had lots of time available this past November / December.

New window to right, old one to left (note: the streaking on the old one is because I washed it with a dirty sponge)

Many C&C owners have done this project already, and my methods were for the most part simply copying what others have already done. There’s nothing incredibly hard here, but the details matter. If you rush this job, it’s likely to have a poor result in the end.

Our existing windows were thru-bolted and sealed with some kind of black flexible sealant. For the new windows we switched to a more modern method: the acrylic is adhered to the hull using adhesive 3M VHB tape (VHB stands for Very High Bond) and sealed using Dow Corning 795 industrial silicone.

There are good explanations of this method here:

• The YouTube show Boatworks Today
• CnC List (C&C owners list)
• Sail Magazine: Replacing Fixed Portlights

From what I understand this method is used on many newer production boats such as Beneteau’s. Still, I took me a while to feel comfortable with whether it would be offshore worthy. A window failure at sea can be catastrophic – if you lose a cabin window while waves are breaking over the boat, you might have no easy way to prevent taking on water.

There are some people who will still disagree, but once I understood the VHB properties I was confident it could hold up to offshore stress. VHB tape is used to bond skyscraper windows to buildings. As long as it’s applied correctly, it has very high bonding strength. And the fact that it’s a flexible tape creating a soft mounting surface is actually an important feature.

Thru-bolting acrylic windows makes them weaker – our old windows had cracks around the thru-bolts in several places. Acrylic expands/contracts with temperature changes, and the boat itself flexes slightly when at sea. So a window is more likely to fail due to flexing and cracking than it is to pop out.

Old window with thru-bolting, cracked in bottom corner

This project takes a lot of time, and is not the kind of project to rush or take shortcuts. For us it took at least 40 hours, plus about 10 hours in prep research and communicating with the plastics shop. About 1/4 of the 40 hrs was in filling the 100+ thrubolt holes and chipping off Plexus, which not all boats will have to deal with.

Per Window, approx 8-10 hours:

• 1-2 hrs: Remove ~30 thru-bolts and pry off old acrylic
• 1 hr: Test fit new window and mask around hull frame with painter’s tape
• 1 hr: Apply VHB tape, test fit again and cut off inner acrylic masking paper where the VHB tape will adhere. Scuff that edge with sandpaper and clean with 50/50 IPA/water. Apply silicone around corner of hull inset, then press in new acrylic.
• 1 hr: Inject and tool silicone into the gap around the new window. Clean-up. Remove acrylic masking paper and marvel at your new view.

Total: 8 hrs/window * 4 windows = 32 hours

Filling and painting ~100 thru-bolt holes: approx 8 hours:

• 45 minutes per epoxy round * 2 iterations/window * 4 windows = 6 hrs
• ~2 hrs for painting over epoxy on interior

The epoxying required many iterations because we were doing one window at a time, and because when you inject thickened epoxy into a horizontal hole (a hole in a near-vertical surface), it’s difficult to get the hole completely filled on the first attempt. In some holes it settled and I had to refill on the next round. There may have been better choices for fill material, but epoxy thickened with sandable filler was popular on a few forums I read.

We used the 5952 VHB tape because it’s a high bond strength designed for these applications and it comes in black (some of the other model #’s are red or gray, which wouldn’t look good under the windows). Some caution is advised picking a supplier. Ebay has cheap VHB tape but is not an official 3M distributor. McMaster Carr, Grainger and others are. 3M informed me Amazon is a 3M distributor. I found a number of complaints on Amazon product reviews, but I believe this may have been for Amazon affiliate stores (if it says “Sold by X” or “Sold by X and fulfilled by Amazon”, that’s *not* an Amazon supplied product).

• Plastic sheeting – we used 3 mil “clear” plastic sheeting to cover the windows while they were out. It literally said clear on the packaging, but the sheeting was not clear at all – more like opaque. It let light in, but we could not see out through it. If you’re living aboard it might be worth finding actually clear plastic sheeting.

• Paint scrapper – rigid style
• Paint scrapper – flexible style
• Painter’s tape
• Fein MultiTool with 80-180 grit sand paper
• Dremel with sanding drum

Getting the old windows off wasn’t terribly hard, but cleaning the surface is. First we had to scrape off all the black sealant, and then found a hard, brown epoxy-like material underneath –  Plexus, aka methacrylate adhesive (Plexus is the brand name of this structural adhesive). Plexus is evil stuff. It’s quite possibly worse than 5200 in regards to removal. It bonds permanently to the underlying gelcoat or fiberglass. It’s what C&C used originally to bed the windows, and nowadays is no longer a recommended method.

Removing remaining Plexus involved hitting a scraper with a hammer to chip it off, which also pulled off gelcoat at times. You can try sanding it, but it will take a very long time to sand if it has any thickness to it. Luckily, not all of our windows had much Plexus – it appears a former owner already replaced the windows and removed some Plexus.

After removing as much Plexus as possible, I sanded using a Fein Multitool with medium grit sanding triangles, and occasionally used my Dremel sanding drum. The Fein is better for getting a flat, smooth surface along the beveled edge. The Dremel can sometimes create diveted / uneven surfaces, since it uses a round sanding drum, so I only used that in small spots where I had stubborn protruding bits of Plexus.

All Windows At Once or One at a Time?

Since we live on our boat, and would be doing this during the cold, rainy Pacific Northwest winter, a big question was whether to do all 4 windows at once or one at a time (or 2 at a time). Most people do them all at once, to make the project go quicker, but most people aren’t doing this while living aboard in the winter.

We were glad we decided to do them in stages (#1, #2, and #3+4 at the same time). It made the project take 4 weeks instead of two, but we realized having all four windows out at once would make life really difficult and unpleasant. After covering the holes with the “clear” 3-mil plastic sheeting, I found the clear sheeting was more opaque than clear. Especially after doubling it up (for better insulation), it was not possible to see through the sheeting. This means less visibility, and having no windows in your cabin in the winter would be really difficult. Seasonal affective disorder is a real risk here in the winter, when daylight hours are short, sun sometimes non-existent, and opportunities to get outside are reduced.

There are two other downsides to having windows out in the winter that we worried about: cold, and rain. These turned out to be not as bad as expected. Covering the window (with the plastic sheeting plus draping a heavy plastic panel from our old full enclosure) reduced heat loss pretty well, and we kept our two electric heaters running to compensate.

And rain never got in through the sheeting – I monitored to make sure the painter’s tape at the top edge and sides was well adhered, and reinforced with duck tape at the corners when adhesion got reduced. Having a Strataglass panel (full enclosure panel) above the window also greatly reduced rain getting on the plastic sheeting.

To Paint the Back Edge of the Acrylic or Not?

One aspect we did differently from some others online is we didn’t apply black paint to the back edge of the new acrylic, where it overlaps the hull inset. Others recommend this, often with Krylon paint, to ensure that the white hull surface doesn’t show through the tinted acrylic. We figured the black VHB tape would take care of this (and a couple others online did it this way as well).

On the 1st window where we used 1/2” width VHB tape, it didn’t completely cover the white hull. We attempted to fill in the rest with the black 795 sealant, but that was a bit messy and so it doesn’t look perfect. But it’s not too bad. On the next 3 windows we switched to 3/4” VHB tape, which completely covered the visible hull surface and looks great.

1st window inset, with the 1/2″ tape

What’s the Worst Vegetable on a Boat? A Leak!

Stuff going wrong is pretty normal in boating, but usually it’s something going wrong with old equipment, not something brand new we’re putting in. It’s really disheartening to finish a project and find you did something wrong (as with the autopilot mount last year ).

So when I found out our brand new window was leaking, I was pretty upset! As a heavy Seattle mist fell in late November (the kind of drippy, foggy rain that isn’t heavy rain but creeps into the tiniest apertures on a boat), a steady drip appeared inside one corner of our 1st new window.

It was very hard to trace the leak, but as far as I can tell it came from one of two possible sources:

• Miniature gaps where the silicone bead had pulled away from the hull or acrylic. These were only a hair’s width thick, but that was probably enough for water to wick in.
• Gel coat cracks along the edge of the hull frame. Our 35 year old boat has plenty of small gel coat cracks around the window ports, caused by hull flexing / normal hull stress. In some cases these hair-width spider lines extend under the silicone sealant and may have been wicking water in.

The 1st window, done with 1/2″ VHB tape

One trick I discovered was using compressed air (the kind you get for cleaning computer keyboards) to push air at the exterior of the sealant joint. When I got to imperfect sealant, even though there might be no visible issue, the air would push through and create bubbles in the water sitting behind the gap. I did this with a headlamp, which facilitates seeing through the tinted acrylic.

I eventually fixed the leak with some reapplications of the Dow Corning 795, but for the next 3 windows we followed more stringent processes.

Tooling the Silicone

From that mistake on the first window, we learned that tooling the silicone requires much greater attention to detail than expected. The sealant around the acrylic needs to be perfect to avoid water seeping through. If the silicone pulls away from the edge – either hull or acrylic – water can wick in through the crack.

So on subsequent windows we did additional prep (filling gel coat cracks with epoxy) and made sure to perfectly tool the silicone into the gap. Dow Corning 795 is pretty forgiving, and we were able to work on it just with a bare finger – no soap or liquid – but you can only run over it once or twice. Repeated attempts to make it neat will likely make it worse. However, if an area wasn’t tooled cleanly in the first pass or two, I found I could apply additional silicone on top of the messy area and then re-tool that.

When we pulled the cover paper off our first new window, a stunned look passed over our faces. Natalie and I couldn’t believe the night-and-day difference it made. For years we had been looking through crazed, foggy windows, and the new one was crystal clear.

For comparison, holding the old acrylic in front of the new one

It was almost like the window wasn’t there at all. We could see our neighboring boat in sharp detail, and can only imagine how much better the views are going to be in the beautiful anchorages we visit once we’re back out to full-time cruising (April).

This project took a lot of time, but relatively little money in boat terms, and turned out to be well worth the effort.

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22 thoughts on “ How To: Replace Frameless Acrylic Windows on a Boat with the VHB Tape Method ”

nice project, where did you get your replacement acrylic windows?

Most plastics shops can cut the acrylic, we used Clear Cut Plastics in Ballard, Seattle.

Thanks for sharing your project, i picked up some great information. Question – what thickness were the acrylic windows – ie” 3/8 or 1/4 inch?

They are 3/8″. Thanks, glad this post has been helping other boaters!

Did you use asolvent for the black sealant that was above the Plexus? What solvent is recommended? Some people recommend a 1/8 inch gap betwwen the new acrylic and the window frame. Do you also recommend this gap? The 795 fills this gap and allows for expansion. When placing the window into the VHB tape,what did you use for spacers to ensure the acrylic window was properly spaced into the window frame? I am considering a number of double stacked washers appropriatley spaced along the bottom of the frame. Your blog has been very helpful. Thank you.

We tried some 3M Adhesive Remover I believe and Goo-B-Gone as well as I think alcohol/soapy water mixture and none of them helped a great deal, they just make the sealant softer/wetter which may make it easier to scrape off. But mostly it was a manual scraping job and then finishing touches with a sander (oscillating Fein or Dremel). I would definitely try for a 1/8 inch gap between acrylic and hull frame dimensions. A couple of our windows didn’t quite have that (maybe only 1/16″) and expansion / flexing caused them to leak a bit after 1 yr. We redid them with a slightly bigger gap (by sanding down the acrylic edges that were tight). To place onto the VHB tape we test fit and then ran duck tape strips along the bottom edge. Then folded down the window, injected sealant into corners not covered by tape, removed the tape cover and carefully placed the window keeping the duck tape taut (2 person job). The stacked washers idea sounds good.

Thank you very much for your quick reply. Xylene did soften the black material to help in removal but did run and discolor the gelcoat.

In one of the articles you linked to, it recommends 3M 4991 which is 2.3mm thick, not 3M 5952 which is only 1.1mm thick. I just used the 5952 that you recommended and there is almost no gap unfortunately. I’m going to do the other set with the 4991 and hopefully it gets closer to that 1/8 in. We’ll see what happens in a year I guess!

Yes, that’s a good point – I think the tape thickness depends on the boat and how your window insets are designed. On our C&C, the thinner tape was best because otherwise the windows would’ve protruded out from the coach roof.

The gap that was filled with sealant was a gap around the circumference of the acrylic window – so that gap was mostly determined by the width/height the acrylic is cut to, rather than the tape thickness. But I agree some custom tweaking is needed depending on the particular boat.

How’s it holding up? Do you still recommend this window conversion?

Yes, they held up well and I know other people that have used the same technique.

I have a C&C 115 (2006) that requires window replacement as well. The originals were bronze colored Lexan polycarbonate (I think). We do some offshore racing. Question: acrylic or polycarbonate for replacement? I’ve heard pros and cons of both.

I recall reading some debates on acrylic vs polycarbonate/Lexan… each has pros/cons but acrylic is easier to source from local shops I think. Here’s an article I found which discusses it: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/portlight_replace/page02.htm

Polycarbonate/Lexan is stronger, but strength isn’t really the issue with windows our size. The author saying polycarb/Lexan scratches easier is a big downside for us since it’s already hard avoiding scratches to acrylic.

What color / tint were your new windows? Looks like you used a dark grey?

It was medium gray, “Acyrlite 2064”.

I’ve seen a few videos now, including two from professional shops, showing two variances from your method: Firstly, they said they weren’t just painting the acrylic for visuals but also to protect the 795 from UV exposure (which seems odd as it’s absurdly hardy), and secondly, they applied the tape and sealant to the window rather than the boat itself… seems more like a technique choice.

Thoughts on the UV thing? Have you noted any cracking or shrinkage with the 795?

UV protection might be a good idea (I’ve seen black tape used on other boats, however I don’t know if they used Dow Corning 795 behind that tape). We didn’t have any issues at all with the sealant deteriorating. Dow Corning 795 claims to be “highly resistant to UV” and “virtually unaffected by sunlight, rain, weather.”

I like what you have done. I am planning on replacing the windows on my boat if I break the windows due to removal. My acrylic is in good shape but they used Sikaflex and it has failed in some areas so it could be difficult to get windows out. If you use the VHB tape to leave a 1/8″ gap around the outside of acrylic, can you just fill that gap in after placing windows in place to create seal. Would 1/8 gap be enough to seal window or should I make it 1/4 inch as I have the room.

I think it might be difficult to inject enough sealant into a 1/8″ gap after placing the window on the VHB tape. It can be difficult to position the window precisely and the gap may end up tighter on one side. 1/4″ would make it easier and also give more expansion room (in some cases it’s the sun heating causing expansion which cracks the acrylic and/or breaks sealant seal). It’s a judgment call though, depends on the situation.

3/16 would be better. Fill around with DowSil 795 using a spoon to carefully contour it.

The windows on my yacht are large 40” x 80” and they can grow by as much as 1/2” depending on the temperature range. From my understanding the VHB tape attaches to acrylic and fiberglass. Will the tape have enough give not to detach from either the acrylic or fiberglass due to expansion or contraction of acrylic compared to fiberglass.

Those are very large windows (looks like you have a catamaran) – over 3’x6′ is about twice the size of what I did. So that’s beyond my expertise, you may need to find someone else with similar sized windows that has done this project. The VHB tape is pliable/stretchy and 3M has a technical specs sheet which may say how much expansion it can tolerate. I suspect it would work out but can’t say for sure.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How to repair yacht hatches and windows

• Duncan Kent
• June 8, 2023

Leaky yacht hatches and windows can make life down below miserable. Duncan Kent explains how to ditch those drippy blues forever

Every boat I have ever owned has had at least one leaking window or hatch at some point and, from experience, no amount of temporary bodging has ever succeeded in fixing it for longer than a few days. In the end, the only way is to do it properly. Despite taking longer, there’s nothing better than knowing you’re leak-free when the skies open or a huge greenie comes rolling down the sidedeck.

Yacht window repairs

Scraping and back-filling will only last a short while, especially when the old sealant holding the glass in the frame has deteriorated beyond all recognition. The typical butyl sealant used for sealing glass into frames and frames to the cabin has a working life of around 20 years maximum. The first bit to go is usually the top strip, where the strong rays of the sun break down the butyl into a crumbly, powdered mess.

Adding sealant after a new hatch has been dropped into place and screwed down

No matter how experienced you might be at removing windows and hatches it always turns into a long, tedious job, so make sure you put aside a few days and do them one at a time to avoid having to tape tarps all over the boat.

If you do plan to remove them all at once, do mark all the components of each window and hatch with numbered tape (including any fixings) as it’s very likely they’ll all be a slightly different size or shape, so you don’t want to muddle them up. Also, mark the orientation of each frame so that it goes back in the same way, ensuring the mounting holes will line up.

Windows will be bedded into a frame which, though also sealed to the coachroof/deck at the end, will almost always be mechanically attached to the boat in some way. Although butyl sealant isn’t particularly adhesive, after 25 years you can guarantee it’ll be well stuck to the coachroof, and it’ll be much worse if someone has used an adhesive sealant on them!

The only way to remove them is by sheer hard graft unfortunately – sliding a sharp blade or sharpened paint stripper blade all around the seal (trying not to damage the boat) until enough of the old seal is broken to allow you to pull/push the window out.

Then a similar process has to be carried out on the frame to remove the glass or Perspex, whichever you have. The frame will usually be in two halves, joined by screws or clips with a backing plate, which will need to be cleaned up and resealed before reassembling.

One word of warning: the frames, commonly aluminium, often distort or even spring apart once you’ve removed the joiners, so it’s best to find a way to retain its shape (template or similar) so that it’ll slip easily back into place once you’ve sealed in the window. I’ve seen people make the mistake of sealing the pane into the frame and leaving it to go off before offering it up to the window aperture, only to find it no longer fits and they then have to either disassemble it all or start grinding out the aperture to match.

Once you’ve dismantled the window and hatch you must remove all trace of the old sealant and clean the frame and glass by rubbing alcohol or a similar non-oil-based product. Beware: some plastic panes, polycarbonate (such as Lexan) or acrylic, for instance, can be damaged when they come into contact with certain solvents, acetone or acids. All components must also be bone dry and solvent-free before you reseal them.

There’s a plethora of different types of adhesive and sealant available today but not all are suitable for every job. For instance, some of the well-known Sika brands of adhesive sealant will stick stuff together forever, which might sound great unless you need to change it a few years later and you have to chisel the component out of the GRP boat!

In rough seas any leaks in the windows will become all too apparent. All windows and hatches will need re-bedding sooner or later

Window and hatch glass is usually bedded in using butyl non-adhesive sealant as it will normally be held firmly in place by a frame, which in turn will be fixed to the boat using screws or bolts.

Butyl sealant is a mildly adhesive blend of butyl rubber and polyisobutylene. It is easy to apply and, remaining flexible, allows plenty of room for adjustment when the surfaces are mated together, unlike some quick-setting products.

In effect, it is used to simply create a waterproof, flexible gasket. Available in both cartridge form or as a tape, it is not unlike putty or chewing gum in feel and appearance, and is easier and far less messy than squirting sealant using a pump gun, although the latter is also available for other jobs.

One advantage of butyl is that it’s fairly easy to remove without the risk of surface damage at a later date, should it need redoing. The not-so-good news is it can be susceptible to UV damage, so in the case of some window areas that are regularly in full sun, it isn’t always the best solution.

An alternative product is silicone, which is an elastic, hybrid polymer. It has all the useful attributes of butyl sealant, while being UV and heat resistant too. Like butyl, silicone doesn’t have aggressive adhesive properties, so it’s important to only use it where there is some form of permanent physical support or fixture.

There are three seals for the opening hatch: the glass to the frame, the frame to the boat, and the rubber opening seal

Yacht window materials

Older boats often had tempered glass window and hatch panes, but these have since been widely superseded by lightweight, shatterproof plastic in most modern production yachts. The most common types used are polycarbonate or acrylic, available in a wide range of thicknesses.

One of the downsides of using plastic panes is that the material isn’t always very UV-resistant, particularly on older boats, leading them to craze over or discolour quite badly. There is no ‘cure’ for this unfortunately, you simply have to replace the panes with new.

Polycarbonate is a resin-based thermoplastic, which is so tough (around 250 times the breaking threshold of glass) that certain types are regularly used in the manufacture of bulletproof windows. It can, however, be scratched fairly easily and can discolour or craze over in constant direct sunlight.

The frames and aged sealant are removed, with old sealant carefully scraped off using a sharp chisel.

Acrylic plastic is part of the vinyl polymer family, also known as acrylates, or simply, acrylics. It is cheaper, less brittle and a little more UV-resistant than polycarbonate.

Neither, however, get on well with solvents, petroleum products such as WD40, or harsh cleaning fluids, preferring instead to be cleaned using warm water and mild washing-up liquid.

he screws were initially nipped up just a little over finger tight.

Both materials can be safely cut, drilled or heat formed into a curve with the correct equipment, although it isn’t that easy for a DIY’er. Frankly, though it’ll add a little to the cost, I would recommend having them pre-cut to fit.

Acrylic is more flexible than polycarbonate and therefore easier to form into shallow curves.

Fitting and resealing

If your pane fits into a U-shaped frame you’ll need to put rubber spacers between the frame and edges of the pane to ensure it is central in the frame and not chafing against it. These will remain in the frame. Then you’ll need similar spacers to ensure an even gap between the frame and pane is left on both sides to fill with sealant. Carry out a dry assembly run first to get the correct thickness of rubber spacers.

Sealant tape doesn’t work too well inside a U-shaped frame so it’s best to use a cartridge or putty knife to force the sealant into the gap, removing the side spacers as you go.

The frame itself can then be sealed to the hull using sealant tape. Clean the window surround thoroughly and then apply the tape to the hull, ensuring you lay tape all around each mounting screw hole as well. The frame should then be pushed gently back in place, lining the screw holes up, and then tightening the screws little by little, moving around the frame by opposing screws to ensure an even spread of the sealant. Do not overtighten the frame as the idea is to use the sealant as a gasket, not to squeeze all the sealant out of the sides!

Leave it a few days, if you can, before cleaning up any excess sealant from around the frames and make sure you don’t use cleaning products that are incompatible with the type of sealant you’ve chosen to use.

Yacht hatch repairs

Re-bedding the frame.

With hatches, the most common areas prone to leakage are the rubber gasket or the seal around the glass where it fits into the frame, so unless you know for sure that the base plate is leaking I’d leave it in place undisturbed. If you do need to remove and reseal the base it’s a good idea to put masking tape all around it before removing it.

This will make it easier to align the frame after applying the sealant, plus it will be in exactly the right place to protect the deck from sealant overspill when you come to replace the base frame, greatly facilitating the clean-up afterwards.

Carefully cutting through the old sealant around the window from below using a craft knife

To remove the base, you’ll have to either slide a sharp blade, paint scraper or a cheese wire around the existing sealant after removing any screws or bolts. You might even need to remove a trim piece or peel back the headlining a little if the nuts are concealed.

Butyl tape is the ideal solution for resealing hatch bases, although a liquid sealant will do just as well provided you carefully create a ring around each screw/bolt hole and ensure the bead of sealant is higher than any frame lip to ensure good contact with the glass.

Once the frame is in the correct position tighten up the screws/bolts just until the sealant starts to squeeze out, leaving it to be fully tightened later once it has cured. This prevents all the sealant being squeezed out by over-tightening the screws when the sealant is molten.

Re-bedding the glass

If it’s just the hatch gasket or the glass-to-frame bond that needs replacing then the base and top part of the hatch can usually be separated by unscrewing the hinges or just knocking out the hinge pin (it might need some penetrating fluid applied first).

On some older models hinge removal can be problematic and getting spare parts for things like knuckle hinges is now nigh on impossible. In which case it’s better to bite the bullet and remove the whole unit. Hatches with riser supports and/or manual clamps are usually simple to dismantle, allowing you to take the hatch top to the workbench to remove and replace the glass or acrylic more easily.

Remove the glass or acrylic by first cutting around the edge seal with a sharp knife. Remove as much of the old caulk as possible, which will make removing the glass easier. Prise the glass out carefully using one or more paint scrapers or something similar with a wide blade. Avoid screwdrivers as they can easily crack the glass.

Once removed, clean the frame and glass thoroughly with a solvent such as acetone, before re-bedding it onto butyl tape or sealant. After waiting for the sealant to dry, you need to caulk the remaining gap between the glass and frame. To make it an easy job to clean up afterwards, always run masking tape around both the glass and frame edges, leaving the gap to be caulked clear.

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Whats the Best Way to Restore Clear Plastic Windows?

Practical sailor tests 27 products that clean, restore, and polish soft vinyl boat windows..

Preserving a clear view through clear plastic on dodgers or enclosures is one of the most challenging tasks in boat maintenance. Restoring a vinyl window is almost impossible, but that doesn’t stop the tide of products that claim to make this job easy. Practical Sailors  eisenglass cleaners test looks at 27 products touted primarily as cleaners or treatments for vinyl windows. The test products were divided into type: cleaners, scratch repairers, polish protectants, and UV protectants. After a week of testing, we found Imar Strataglass Protective Cleaner and Imar Strataglass Protective Polish, distributed by Defender Industries, to be the Best Choice. Collinite No. 845 Insulator Wax and Mer-Maids Plexiglass Plastic Cleaner and Polish were the Budget Buys. The test also included products from the following manufacturers: 303, 3M, Aquatech, Armada, Davies, Marykate, Meguiars. Mothers, Novus, Plexus, Sailors Solutions, Star brite, Turtle Wax, West Marine, and Yacht Brite.

                                                 ****

Preserving a clear view through soft plastic glass on dodgers or enclosures is one of the most challenging tasks in boat maintenance. Attempting to restore an old or sorely neglected soft plastic window is almost impossible, but that doesn’t stem the tide of products that claim to make this job easy.

Practical Sailor

last delved into the world of clear-plastic maintenance products back in February 2003. Since then, a number of new products have hit the market, each making its own specific claims.

Maintaining clear-plastic windows requires special care, and the article on the facing page, “In Search of Clarity,” covers the basic precautions. For a more detailed discussion of maintaining marine plastics, see “Caring for Clear Plastics on Your Boat,” at www.practical-sailor.com, in the Tools and Techniques section.

Although many of the products in this article can be used on hard acrylic or polycarbonate hatch glazing, this article examines their performance only on the soft, flexible clear-vinyl windows, such as those that youll find in a dodger or cockpit enclosure.

Canvas shops use a variety of clear vinyl (PVC) products to make these windows. Ultraclear, Crystal Clear, Seaflex, Achilles, and Strataglass are some common brand names. Practical Sailor will be comparing these and other types of clear plastics (such as Stamoid) in a future article.

All of these materials are very susceptible to scratching, smudging, and wear. Over time, they become brittle as they lose the chemicals that keep them soft and pliable. In addition, ultraviolet rays can quickly damage the vinyl, causing hazing, cracking, and yellowing. The products reviewed here help delay that process.

What We Tested

evaluated 27 products (three were two-step applications) from 18 manufacturers that were advertised, labeled, or recommended primarily as cleaners or treatments for clear-vinyl windows. All are available through marine dealers, chandlers, or the Internet.

For comparison, we broke them down into the following categories: cleaners; scratch repairers; polish/protectants; UV protectants.

Eight claimed to have UV protection, 10 included a formula or fine abrasives to remove light scratches and smudges. and all but two products promised a polished finish.

Products that stood out (for good or for bad) in the field are discussed below. Test results and ratings for all of the products appear in the Value Guide on page 25.

Armadas 210 Plastic Cleaner/Polish, a 14-ounce aerosol, excelled in cleaning and polishing our test vinyl. It provides a clear, lustrous finish with a protective coating that is anti-static and anti-fog. For older or scratched windows, use the Armada 210 Plus, which includes a very mild abrasive compound that does a reasonably good job of removing dirty residues, smudges, and fine scratches.

Bottom line: The 210 Plus is an excellent cleaner with anti-fog and anti-static properties. The 210 polishes well, but aerosol cans don’t keep well aboard saltwater boats.

Step-one in a two-step process, 3Ms Marine Vinyl Cleaner and Restorer removes haze, dirt, and stains with a thick creamy liquid. It is an above-average cleaner. The second step involves applying the 3M Marine Plastic Polish, a thick white cream that cleans and when buffed, yields a protective, high-gloss finish. The formula includes restorative mineral oils, glycerin, and carnauba wax.

Bottom line: The 3M cleaner worked fine, but the polish produced only Fair results.

303 Aerospace Protectant

Often recommended to preserve inflatable dinghies, 303s Aerospace Protectant spray cleans, shines, and leaves a UV protection of SPF 40. Directions call for renewing the finish monthly.

Bottom line: The 303 spray has multiple uses, offers good protection, and is modestly priced.

The Aquatech Clear Enclosure Cleaner and Protectant (No. 750) sprays a light, clear liquid that is designed to clean, without any alcohol, ammonia, or harsh chemicals. The Premier Polish and UV Protectant (No. 201) is a general-purpose polish for gelcoat, paint, and metal. It is a thick, white cream that slowly dries to a haze.

Bottom line: The 750 cleaner and protectant cleans quickly and leaves a slight shine. The 201 adds an excellent polished sheen with UV protection.

The Collinite 845 Insulator Wax is a thick cream designed for marine and industrial applications where a heavy-duty, high-gloss UV protective coating is required. It keeps dirt, dust, and salt from sticking and assures full protection against sun, rain, bugs, and salt spray.

Bottom line: Collinite polishes well and has multiple uses and a good track record at an affordable price. Its our Budget Buy.

Imars Strataglass Protective Cleaner (No. 301) and Strataglass Protective Polish (No. 302) are the only products recommended by Strataglass. The Imar 301 produces a fine, clear mist from a 16-ounce spray bottle. Imar recommends using the product regularly when you wash and rinse the boat. The 302 provides the same UV protection as 301, but the creamy liquid adds a thicker protective coating and brighter shine. Imar recommends reapplying 302 about every three to four months.

Bottom line: Imars 301 ranked high as a very good cleaner. The 302 was one of the better polishers that we tested, beading up best in the water test.

Marykates Glassplex Glass Cleaner (No. 3918) multipurpose glass, acrylic, and vinyl cleaner-a fine, clear liquid delivered through a trigger spray nozzle-does an acceptable job of cleaning oil and dirt. Marykate also makes Clear Vinyl Cleaner and Polish (No. 6414), which we did not test. Neither contains alcohol or ammonia.

Bottom line: Though not a standout, the Marykate 3918 was the most economical of the cleaning products tested.

A Best Buy in 2003, Mer-maids Plexiglass/Plastic Cleaner and Polish is a clear spray that goes on fast and is easy to wipe off. It is reasonably priced, and does a fairly good job cleaning and shining.

Bottom line: Mer-maids product cleaned well, provides anti-static and anti-fog protection, and does not contain alcohol or ammonia. A good bet for routine cleaning.

Testers looked at three products from Meguiars. The Clear Plastic Detailer (No. 18) is a handy one-step cleaner and polish in an 8-ounce spray bottle. It sprays a clear liquid that you wipe and polish immediately. If allowed to dry, it can leave streaks.The Clear Plastic Cleaner (No. 17) helps remove ground-in dirt and small scratches with a non-abrasive cleaning formula. TheClear Plastic Polish (No. 10) is a thick, creamy liquid that can follow the No. 17 cleaner, and provides a static-free coating that repels dust and shines up nicely.

Bottom line: Of the three Meguiars products, the No. 10 polish stood out best in its category.

Mothers Marine Power Plastic is a one-step cleaner, restorer, polish, and UV protectant. It is a creamy liquid in a bright red, 8-ounce plastic bottle that claims to remove light scratches, oxidation, stains, and yellowing. Once dried to a haze, it buffs out to a nice bright finish.

Bottom line: A good do-it-all product for reviving and protecting old windows. When polishing soft, clear vinyl, PS doesn’t recommend using it with a drill-mounted polisher, as Mothers suggests.

The Novus No. 1 Clean and Shine Plastic Polish did an excellent job of leaving a lustrous shine that resists fogging and static, and provides a good protective coating.Despite its name, the Novus No. 2 Fine Scratch Remover is meant as the first step in cleaning, and it does a good job of it. (There is also a more abrasive No. 3.)

Bottom line: These Novus products offer an excellent two-step program, particularly for scratched windows.

Originally developed for airplane windshields, Plexus Plastic Cleaner and Polish is well known for cleaning and polishing a multitude of plastic surfaces. The can sprays out a fine mist of clear liquid that cleans as it polishes and leaves a shiny anti-static protective residue.

Bottom line: This is a good product for well-maintained vinyl, but the metal can will rust.

Sailors Solutions

Sailors Solutions X-16 Plastic Window Polish is a combination cleaner (with extra-fine abrasive), polish, and UV protectant that works well but can separate over time. Follow directions and don’t let it dry too much, or it will be difficult to remove and will leave streaks.

Bottom line: The packaging is cheap (the label and directions smeared after a few uses), but the creamy liquid formula quickly removed some light scratches and left a nice shine.

Star brite has a two-step process for restoring and reviving clear plastic. Star brite Step 1 Plastic Scratch Remover is an ultra-fine abrasive for cleaning and restoring older plastic windows. The Step 2 Plastic Polish/Restorer is a light, clear liquid in an 8-ounce bottle that leaves a thin, polished coating.

Bottom line: This is an inexpensive and effective one-two punch for older vinyl.

West Marine

Packaged in an easy-to-stow 8-ounce spray bottle, West Marines One-step Plastic Cleaner Polish is a light, cream-colored liquid. It does a nice job of both cleaning and removing fine scratches, and it leaves a protective coating.

Bottom line: This cleaner-polish is held back by its higher price.

Yacht Brite

Yacht Brite Serious Shine, a 3-in-1 cleaner, polish and protectant in a 14-ounce aerosol, buffs to a nice shine and leaves a fine film that repels water with UV inhibitors and anti-static properties. It contains alcohol and solvents that are not recommended for some plastics.

Bottom line: This spray is easy to use and performs well, but the rust-prone aerosol can belongs ashore.

Conclusions

Dont put too much stock in claims that hazing, yellowing, or scratches will be eliminated. We found no miracle cure.

Products that included fine abrasives to remove light scratches took several applications and a considerable amount of hand rubbing to slowly eliminate scratches. Since abrasives can do more harm than good, we recommend them only as a last resort. Dont use electric buffers and always test on an inconspicuous area.

When testers had done a good job of cleaning the vinyl with any of the cleaners, a second step of applying and buffing with a good polish obviously improved clarity. Applying a second coat of polish the next day produced a thicker, longer-lasting protective coating that shined and beaded better.

Many products were very effective at improving visibility and preventing staining and dirt buildup. Some were easier to use than others. The clear liquids have a tendency to run, so they should be applied to a cloth first. Creams show where you have been. Sprays are handiest and probably best for a quick retouch. Heres what we found:

Of the products that claimed to only clean, the Imar 301 was the clear winner, and it also is safe for treated vinyl.

For owners of older dodgers with small scratches, the Novus No. 2 Fine Scratch Remover proved to be the most effective, followed closely by the Armada 210 Plus Plastic Cleaner/Polish and Mothers Marine Power Plastic.

Among the polishes, the Imar 302 Protective Polish, Novus No. 1, Collinite No. 845, Mothers Marine Power, and Aquatechs Premier Polish produced the best shine and beading, rating Excellent.

The best one-bottle cleaner, scratch remover, and polish with UV protection was Mothers Marine Power Plastic. Sailors Solutions X-16 also does it all and was rated Good-to-Excellent.

If you prefer a two-step process, then the Imar #301/#302 combo is the way to go. They produced the cleanest and shiniest windows and beaded water the best, earning the Best Choice honors. The Novus and Star brite two-part products were close behind.

• In Search of Clarity
• Practical Sailor Value Guide: Clear-Plastic Cleaners
• How We Tested
• Download PDF Version

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Marine Windows

Through fix windows.

A Through Fix window is where the superstructure or hull is drilled to allow a fixing to pass through the boat window frame, and then into or through whatever the window is being attached to.

With all Through Fixing frames, different trims are available as an optional extra, as are the fastenings.

Clamp-In Windows

Clamp-in windows are fast and easy to fit.

All of the fastenings are incorporated inside the body of the frame. This means there are no external fastening holes, so therefore the common source of leaks has been eliminated.

The Clamp-in window design makes the boat window robust and durable.  It is also pleasing to the eye.

Clamp Shut Slider

‘glass-look’ windows.

Glass-look windows are becoming ever more popular to create a sleek, ‘single panel’ look from ferry’s to superyachts whilst increasing the amount of clear light that gets through. With hidden fixings increasing the water integrity and a range of glazing options available, glass-look windows are perfect for creating the look you want on any vessel.

Hidden Frame

Brand new concealed frame, direct bond, plant-on windows.

‘Opening window in a window’ – Encompassing some of our newest range of windows, plant-on are perfect to create ventilation within direct bond windows.

Horizontal Pop and Slide

Vertical half-drop pop and slide, plant-on hopper (provided in a fixed pane).

Photos, video show collapse of Baltimore's Francis Scott Key Bridge after cargo ship collision

The Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore, Maryland collapsed Tuesday into the Patapsco River after it was struck by a large cargo ship.

The bridge's collapse has prompted huge emergency response, with the Baltimore City Fire Department describing the collapse as a mass-casualty incident, and rescue crews searching for seven people in the river. Maryland Gov. Wes Moore has declared a state of emergency.

Baltimore  Mayor Brendon Scott  said on X that he was aware of the incident and was en route to the bridge. "Emergency personnel are on scene, and efforts are underway," he said.

The 1.6 mile, 4-lane bridge named for the author of the "Star-Spangled Banner," was the second-longest continuous-truss bridge span in the United States and third in the world.

Follow here for live updates → Baltimore's Key Bridge collapses after ship collision; rescue effort underway

Photos show collapsed Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore

Videos show francis scott key bridge's collapse.

The bridge's collapse, which came after it was struck by a container ship, was distributed on social media.

What did the Francis Scott Key Bridge look like before it was hit?

Contributing: Charles Ventura, Thao Nguyen and Susan Miller, USA TODAY .

The Best New Small-Ship Cruises to Book in 2024

A uthentic. It was Merriam Webster's top searched word for 2023 and one that has dominated the travel vernacular in recent years. And while many would not necessarily associate the word with ocean cruising , the growth in popularity of small-ship cruises-particularly sailings with 500 guests or fewer-indicates that in the cruising world, passengers are seeking a more intimate, less crowded, and yes, arguably more authentic sailing experience.

Take expedition cruising , for example. As the number of adventure-focused ships and yachts has exploded in recent years, these cruises are no longer just about extreme voyages in polar regions. They are also about offering a deeper look into the culture, food, history, and environmental fragility of remote wonders of the world.

Although there isn't a huge number of new small ships being introduced, there are a few notable vessels that have either recently launched or are launching this year with a focus on the idea that smaller is not just better, but more sustainable, too. These new small-ship cruises bring with them some exciting and more immersive new itineraries to destinations both warm and wintry that have us ready to pack our bags and sail away.

Sea Cloud Cruises' "Sea Cloud Spirit"

• Suggested itinerary: Reset your mind and body on an eight-night sailing through Spain's Canary Islands and on to Morocco on a special cruise featuring experts in restorative health. Pricing starts at $4,895 per person.

What's more authentic-and sustainable-than setting sail on a tall ship where the sails are hoisted up each day by hand? Although not technically new (it was launched in 2021), the 136-passenger Sea Cloud Spirit and its two sister ships, Sea Cloud and Sea Cloud II , are upping their game in a push to introduce Sea Cloud Cruises' unique product to North American travelers. The German company has traditionally catered to German and British passengers. As part of its effort to expand its reach and appeal, Sea Cloud is adding wellness programs with daily onboard yoga and guest fitness gurus, in addition to special food- and wine-focused sailings with well-known chefs making appearances. Sea Cloud Spirit , the largest of the three-ship fleet with 69 cabins, was meticulously designed to pay homage to the original Sea Cloud , which was the world's largest private sailing yacht when Wall Street broker Edward Francis Hutton had it built in 1931 for his wife, Marjorie Merriweather Post.

The Sea Cloud Spirit combines the experience of decades of traditional seamanship with the modern-day luxuries of a private yacht. Cabins range from 172-square-foot single cabins to 300-square-foot balcony suites with soaking tubs. There's a large fitness center and spa, which has a steam room, sauna, and thermal area for two; indoor and outdoor lounges; and a main dining area, plus a more casual bistro. The action, however, is out on deck, where passengers can stargaze at night or simply gaze in awe at the impressive sails blowing in the wind.

Atlas Ocean Voyages' "World Navigator"

• Suggested itinerary: Go searching for Arctic wildlife on a 12-night cruise from Reykjavík, which sails along the eastern coast of Greenland and to Longyearbyen in the Svalbard archipelago, one of the world's northernmost inhabited areas and home to polar bears, reindeer, arctic foxes, and other Nordic wildlife. Pricing starts at $6,499 per person.

World Navigator , which sailed its maiden voyage in Antarctica this past November, is the third vessel to join the fleet of one of the newest players in small-ship expedition cruising, Atlas Ocean Voyages. The company's 100-cabin expedition yachts are almost identical and provide a hybrid of sorts between traditional expedition and luxury cruising. Cabins are spacious, almost all with balconies, desks, and seating areas. The bathrooms have glass-mosaic tiled showers with rain showerheads, wall jets, and even benches.

Everything on the ship-including the sauna with floor-to-ceiling windows-is designed to provide maximum views. The ships also have spacious pool decks with two hot tubs, a fitness center overlooking the sea, a spa, and water toys like kayaks and paddleboards. There's even extreme camping gear for those willing to brave an overnight under the stars in Antarctica. During North American winters, all three of Atlas's expedition yachts sail in Antarctica. With the addition of World Navigator , the company is launching more Arctic Circle cruises during the North American summers while also adding a host of new epicurean and cultural expeditions in South America, the Caribbean, the Mediterranean, and northern Europe this year.

Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection's "Ilma"

• Suggested itinerary: Spend a little extra time in port on a 10-day sailing from Barcelona to Lisbon, which has three overnight stays, in Palma de Mallorca and Malaga in Spain, and in Lisbon, Portugal, one of Europe's oldest cities. Pricing starts at $10,600 per person.

Another newcomer to luxury small-ship cruising is the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection, which debuts its second ship, the Ilma , this year. With 224 suites, the ship is larger than the original Ritz-Carlton yacht, the 149-suite Evrima , which launched in October 2022. On the Ilma , all the suites will have private terraces, including a two-story suite with soaking tub; the coveted, 1,000-square-foot owner's suite has a private outdoor whirlpool. Even the smallest suites are not all that small, at 300 square feet, and come with a personal concierge and 24-hour room service. The yacht boasts what Ritz-Carlton says is the highest ratio of space per guest at sea.

And you can expect to find the same meticulous service standards that you would find at Ritz-Carlton resorts throughout the world as the line aims to impress hotel guests seeking a luxury hotel experience at sea. Onboard are five dining venues, including S.E.A., a European tasting experience designed by chef Sven Elverfeld of Aqua, the three Michelin-starred restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton in Wolfsburg, Germany; Talaat Nam, featuring Southeast Asian cuisine and a sushi bar; and Mistral, a casual come-as-you-are alfresco grill with a Mediterranean-inspired menu. Light bites are served at the marina at the aft of the ship, where you can also hop on a borrowed paddleboard. Oh, and did we mention there are two outdoor pools, too?

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Asus’ Windows-based Steam Deck rival, the ROG Ally, drops to $399

There’s nothing I love more than curling up on the couch with a handheld gaming device. Whether I’m playing an old classic like The Legend of Zelda: The Minish Cap or a relaxing farming sim like Stardew Valley , it’s one of my favorite ways to unwind at the end of the day. Now you can do it for a lot cheaper than before. Best Buy is currently selling the Asus ROG Ally for $399.99 , which is $100 off of the new $499.99 and $200 off the original $599 price. In our review of the pricier model, we were impressed with the gaming performance as well as the beautiful 120Hz display.

This is the entry-level model of the Asus ROG Ally. It boasts an AMD Ryzen Z1 processor, 16GB of RAM, 512GB of storage, and a 1080p 120Hz touchscreen display. If you want a Windows-based handheld, then this is one of the more compelling options available right now. In terms of price, it’s on par with the Steam Deck entry level model, but the ROG Ally has faster memory and a higher resolution screen — plus, you know, it runs full-blown Windows, unlike the Steam Deck.

If you’re looking to pick up a portable gaming device, then the Asus ROG Ally will definitely scratch that itch. This is a great deal, so you better jump on it now.

Get the Asus ROG Ally for $399.99 at Best Buy

Author: Ashley Biancuzzo , Associate Editor

Ashley is a professional writer and editor with a strong background in tech and pop culture. She has written for high traffic websites such as Polygon, Kotaku, StarWars.com, and Nerdist. In her off time, she enjoys playing video games, reading science fiction novels, and hanging out with her rescue greyhound.

Recent stories by Ashley Biancuzzo:

• Best gaming laptops 2024: What to look for and highest-rated models
• Best monitor deals for October Prime Day: Save big on Samsung, Dell, and more
• Microsoft’s radical TMNT Xbox controller smells like pizza

How-To Geek

How to set up parental controls on windows 11.

The Family app on Windows 11 helps parents and guardians keep children safe when using a PC, especially if they frequently go online.

Quick Links

How to set up a child account, how to link a child's account to a windows device, using the microsoft family app on windows, managing account settings, key takeaways.

• Create a Microsoft account for the child in the Settings app.
• Link the child's Microsoft account to their Windows account so it can appear in the Family app.
• Control the child's screen time, apps, games, and websites visited via the Family app on your Windows 11 computer.

Parental controls help you monitor or limit your child's activity on their Windows PC. That way, you can stop them from gaming too much or visiting harmful websites. You can set these limits in the Family app on Windows 11.

To limit a child's device, you need to add their Microsoft account to your Microsoft Family group in the Settings app. If the child doesn't have a Microsoft account, you can create one for them.

Make sure your Windows computer is connected to the internet throughout this guide.

To do that, press Win + i to open Settings, navigate to Accounts > Family, and click "Add Someone" in the Your Family section.

In the window that appears, click the "Create One for Child" link.

Then, follow the instructions to set up a new Microsoft account for your child. You will create an Outlook email and password for them during these steps.

To make the Family app to show the child's device, link their Microsoft account to their Windows user profile. They shouldn't be using a local account.

If they were using a local account, log in to the child's Windows profile, press Win + i, head to Account > Your Info, and click the "Sign in With a Microsoft Account Instead" link.

Then, enter the child's Microsoft account details to sign in and link it with their Windows device.

If the child uses another PC with a local account, you'll need to sign in with their Microsoft account there, too. If they don't have an account on that PC, you can easily create one and then link the Microsoft account to it.

To do that, head to Settings > Account > Other Users and click "Add Account."

Then, follow the instructions to sign in to the child's Microsoft account.

To complete the link, open the Family app while you're logged into your child's Windows account. To do that, press Win + S to open Windows Search. Enter Family in the Search box, and then click the Family app in the search results to launch it.

Now you're ready to start setting limits on the child's account.

In your Windows account, open the Family app and select the child's account. From there, you can control their screen time, app usage, and the websites they visit.

Limiting Screen Time

First, scroll down to the "Devices" section and click the "Turn Limits On" button on the child's Windows device. This will be the one you linked the Microsoft account to.

You'll see a schedule appear after you turn on the limits, which allows you to set usage limits on any day of the week.

The "Time Limit" column is the number of hours the child can use the computer once they log into their account. For instance, if you set it to five hours, the computer will automatically lock once the child exceeds those hours.

The "Available Hours" column is the number of hours a child can log into their account. For instance, if the "Time Limit" is set from 7:00 AM to 10:00 PM, your child won't be able to log in from 10:01 PM to 06:59 AM.

To edit the time limits, click on a day (i.e. "Sunday" or "Friday") in the Days column. This will open a window where you can adjust the times.

You can use the dropdown in this window to control days individually. Alternatively, you can set it to "Every Day" and adjust the screen times for all the days simultaneously. When finished, click "Done" to apply the limits to the child's Windows device.

Limiting Apps and Games

To limit your child's apps and games, click the "Apps and Games" tab and turn on the "Apps and Game Limits" toggle.

Then, click the three-dot icon next to the app or game and select "Set a Limit" or "Block App."

Blocking the app will prevent the child from using it. But if you choose "Set Limits," you can adjust the active times and available times.

And when you're finished, click "Done" to apply the changes and limit the app.

Blocking Websites

When you block websites in the Family app, the only browser these restrictions apply to is Microsoft Edge. However, that is not a problem since enabling the limits blocks access to all other browsers.

To block the websites, click the "Edge" tab at the top. Then, click the "Turn On Activity Reporting Button" to see what search terms the child is using and the websites they're visiting. This data will inform your decision on which websites to block in the future.

Then, scroll down and turn on the "Filter Inappropriate Websites and Searches" toggle.

If you want, you can also turn on the "Only Use Allowed Websites" toggle to limit the child to only those websites that you approve or educational sites.

To add a blocked site, scroll down to the "Block Sites" section, enter the site's URL in the text box, and click the plus sign.

The child won't be able to access that website now. You can repeat these steps to add as many sites as you want.

You can also apply more restrictions to the child's device by managing their account settings. To access them, click "Settings" in the top right.

Here, you can set things like the minimum age limits for apps or if the child requires your approval to purchase things. That latter is very important if your child is a gamer in the age of microtransactions and gacha video games . You can even choose whether to get weekly activity reports or instantly send yourself an activity report.

Afterward, click "Done" to save the changes you've made.

Even with all these limits, you can still do more to ensure the child is safe on their Windows device. For instance, you can use the Family app to limit their other devices; specifically, their Xbox and mobile devices. Also, you can ensure that the child's PC has the best antivirus and that you've tweaked the right Windows privacy settings .