how to clean sailboat standing rigging

How To Clean Sailboat Standing Rigging? A Step-by-Step Guide

Have you ever wondered how to clean your sailboat’s standing rigging? You might think it’s a difficult process, but it doesn’t have to be! In this article, we will provide a step-by-step guide to cleaning your sailboat’s standing rigging, so you can keep your boat in top condition.

We’ll also discuss why it’s important to clean the rigging, as well as the safety considerations you need to bear in mind.

From the tools and materials you need to the steps to take when cleaning and lubricating, this article will provide you with all the information you need to keep your sailboat’s standing rigging in great condition.

Read on to get started!

Table of Contents

Short Answer

To clean sailboat standing rigging, first remove the sail and any other hardware that may be attached.

Then, use a soft brush and soapy water to gently scrub the rigging to remove any dirt and grime.

Rinse the rigging with clean water afterwards.

Finally, inspect the rigging for any signs of wear and tear and replace as needed.

Why Cleaning Sailboat Standing Rigging Is Important

Keeping sailboat standing rigging in good condition is essential for its performance and longevity.

Not only does it provide the necessary support for the masts and sails, but it also helps to protect sailors from potential danger.

Cleaning the rigging regularly is the best way to maintain its condition and ensure it is safe and reliable.

When the rigging is not cleaned, dirt, grime, and salt can accumulate and corrode the metal, which can cause it to weaken over time.

This can lead to the rigging breaking and putting sailors in danger.

Additionally, dirt and salt can cause corrosion to occur, which can damage the metal and reduce the life of the rigging.

Furthermore, dirt and salt can affect the performance of the rigging, making it less efficient and reliable.

Regularly cleaning the rigging is the best way to ensure it is in top condition and will continue to perform its job safely and correctly.

This can be done by using a soft brush and mild soap and water to remove any dirt or mud, followed by a rinse with fresh water and a final drying with a clean cloth.

Finally, the rigging should be lubricated with a corrosion-resistant lubricant to help prevent rust and protect the metal from the elements.

By following these steps regularly, sailors can ensure their sailboat’s standing rigging is in top condition and their sailing experience is a safe and enjoyable one.

Cleaning the rigging is an important part of maintaining a sailboat and should not be overlooked.

Safety Considerations for Cleaning

When it comes to cleaning sailboat standing rigging, its important to always consider safety first.

You should never attempt to clean your rigging while standing on the dock or other platform without proper safety harnesses and lines.

Additionally, you should avoid using any harsh chemicals or abrasive materials that could damage the rigging.

It is also important to ensure that any lubricants used are specifically designed for corrosion-resistant protection.

Finally, you should always make sure that the rigging is free of debris or other objects that could cause it to become entangled or frayed.

By following these safety considerations, you can help ensure a successful and safe rigging cleaning experience.

Step-by-Step Guide to Cleaning

Cleaning your sailboats standing rigging is essential to ensure its longevity and performance. Its an easy process that should be done regularly to keep your sailboat in top condition and your sailing experience safe and enjoyable. Heres a step-by-step guide to cleaning your sailboats standing rigging:

1. Begin by removing any dirt or mud with a soft brush and mild soap and water. This will help to loosen and remove any debris that has accumulated on the rigging.

2. Once youve removed the debris, rinse the rigging off with fresh water. You can do this with a hose or a bucket of water.

3. After rinsing the rigging, dry it off with a clean cloth. Make sure the cloth is lint-free and not too abrasive.

4. Finally, you should lubricate the rigging with a corrosion-resistant lubricant. There are many products on the market specifically designed for this purpose. Be sure to select one that is compatible with the type of metal used in your sailboats standing rigging.

By following these steps regularly, you can ensure that your sailboats standing rigging is in the best condition possible.

Doing so will help to prevent rust and protect the metal from the elements – ensuring your sailing experience is a safe and enjoyable one.

Tools and Materials Needed

Cleaning and maintaining your sailboat standing rigging doesnt have to be a daunting task. With the right tools and materials on hand, you can keep your sailboat in top condition and extend its longevity. Before you begin the cleaning process, its important to have the following tools and materials ready:

-Soft brush: A soft brush is important for removing dirt and mud without scratching the standing rigging.

-Mild soap and water: For a gentle cleaning solution, use a mild soap and water mixture.

-Fresh water: After youve removed the dirt and mud, rinse the rigging off with fresh water to remove any soap residue.

-Clean cloth: Use a clean cloth to dry off the standing rigging after youve rinsed it off with fresh water.

-Corrosion-resistant lubricant: To protect the metal from the elements, use a corrosion-resistant lubricant to lubricate the standing rigging.

Removing Dirt and Mud

When it comes to cleaning your sailboats standing rigging, the first step is to remove any dirt and mud that may have accumulated on the surface.

This is best done using a soft brush and mild soap and water.

Start by lightly brushing the surface of the rigging to loosen any dirt and mud that may have become stuck in the crevices and threads.

Once this is done, use a damp cloth to wipe away the dirt and mud.

Its important to be gentle and not to scrub too hard, as this could damage the rigging.

In addition, its a good idea to wear gloves while doing this, as the dirt and mud can contain corrosive elements which could cause skin irritation.

Once the dirt and mud have been removed, rinse the rigging with fresh water to ensure that all the soap has been washed away.

Finally, dry the rigging off with a clean cloth.

Rinsing with Fresh Water

Rinsing your sailboat standing rigging with fresh water is an important step in the cleaning process.

While many sailors may be tempted to skip this step, it is essential for keeping your rigging in top condition.

Fresh water will help to remove any remaining dirt or debris that has been loosened by the mild soap and brush.

It is important to use fresh water to rinse off the rigging as saltwater can corrode the metal and cause it to rust.

After rinsing the rigging with fresh water, make sure to dry it off thoroughly with a clean cloth.

This will help to prevent any remaining moisture from causing rust or corrosion to your sailboat’s standing rigging.

Taking the time to rinse your rigging with fresh water will help to ensure your sailing experience is a safe and enjoyable one.

Lubricating the Rigging

When it comes to keeping your sailboats standing rigging clean, one of the most important steps is lubricating it.

Lubrication helps to prevent rust and corrosion, and it also helps to protect the metal from the elements.

When looking for a suitable lubricant, you should look for one that is specifically designed for marine use and is corrosion-resistant.

This will ensure that the lubricant will last longer and provide better protection against the harsh marine environment.

When applying the lubricant, its important to make sure that you cover the entire surface area of the rigging.

This can be done by using a soft cloth or brush to spread the lubricant evenly.

You should also take care to avoid applying too much lubricant, as this can attract dirt and debris and cause the rigging to become slick and unstable.

Once youve applied the lubricant, you should allow the rigging to dry completely before reassembling the sailboat.

This will ensure that the lubricant is fully absorbed into the metal and wont be washed away the next time you sail.

Additionally, its a good idea to inspect the rigging every few months and reapply lubricant if necessary.

Following these steps will help you ensure that your sailboats standing rigging is in top condition and your sailing experience is a safe and enjoyable one.

Final Thoughts

Good sailboat standing rigging maintenance is essential for safe and enjoyable sailing.

Following the simple steps outlined in this guide – from removing dirt and mud to lubricating the rigging – will help you ensure your sailboat’s standing rigging is in top condition.

Now that you know how to clean sailboat standing rigging, it’s time to get out there and make the most of your sailing experience!

James Frami

At the age of 15, he and four other friends from his neighborhood constructed their first boat. He has been sailing for almost 30 years and has a wealth of knowledge that he wants to share with others.

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Standing Rigging on a Sailboat: Everything You Need to Know

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 14, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer standing rigging on a sailboat:

Standing rigging on a sailboat refers to fixed lines and cables that support the mast and help control its movement. It includes components like shrouds, stays, and forestays. These essential elements ensure stability and proper sail trim while underway.

Understanding the Importance of Standing Rigging on a Sailboat

Sailboats are marvels of engineering and ingenuity, capable of harnessing the power of the wind to transport us across vast oceans and explore far-flung destinations. As sailors, we often focus on the majestic sails, sleek hull designs, and cutting-edge navigation technology that make these vessels so awe-inspiring. However, there is one crucial component that sometimes goes unnoticed but plays a vital role in keeping our sailboats safe and seaworthy – the standing rigging.

The standing rigging refers to the network of wires and cables that support the mast and allow it to bear the tremendous loads exerted by the sails. It acts as the backbone of a sailboat’s rig , providing stability, strength, and balance. Understanding its importance is crucial for anyone who sets foot on a vessel with dreams of cruising or competing.

Firstly, let’s examine why standing rigging is essential for sailboat safety. Imagine being out at sea when suddenly your mast collapses due to faulty rigging . This nightmare scenario can easily be avoided by regularly inspecting your boat’s standing rigging for signs of wear or fatigue. Frayed wires or corroded fittings could weaken the entire structure, making it susceptible to failure under heavy winds or rough seas . By ensuring your standing rigging is in good shape through routine maintenance and inspections by professionals, you can significantly reduce this risk and ensure your own safety onboard.

Moreover, properly tensioned standing rigging is vital for maintaining optimum sailing performance. The tension in each wire within the standing rig allows for efficient transfer of power from sails to keel through mast compression. If your standing rigging is too loose or too tight, it can negatively impact your sail trim and overall boat handling capabilities. A well-tuned rig will provide better control over sail shape adjustments necessary for different wind conditions while maximizing speed potential – something every sailor strives for!

Beyond safety and performance, understanding the importance of standing rigging requires recognizing its impact on the overall balance of your sailboat. The rigging plays a crucial role in maintaining the boat’s equilibrium by counteracting the forces exerted by the sails. Without proper tension and alignment of the standing rig, a sailboat may become unbalanced, resulting in compromised stability. This imbalance can make steering more challenging, increase the risk of broaching, or even lead to capsizing in extreme cases. Therefore, paying close attention to your standing rigging ensures that your boat remains stable and enjoyable to sail.

Lastly, it is worth mentioning that investing in high-quality materials and professional rigging services will prove cost-effective in the long run . While it may be tempting to cut corners or delay necessary upgrades or maintenance, neglecting your standing rigging will only result in more significant expenses down the line. Inadequate rig tension can lead to excessive wear on other components such as sails or mast fittings, increasing their replacement frequency and cost.

In conclusion, understanding and valuing the importance of standing rigging on a sailboat is essential for sailors of all levels. It directly impacts safety at sea, enhances sailing performance, maintains balance and stability, ultimately contributing to an enjoyable experience on board. So next time you set foot on a sailboat or contemplate owning one yourself, don’t forget to give due attention to this often overlooked but vital aspect – your boat’s standing rigging!

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Inspect and Maintain Standing Rigging on a Sailboat

Title: Cracking the Code: A Step-by-Step Guide to Inspecting and Maintaining Standing Rigging on a Sailboat

Introduction: Ahoy, fellow sailors! Whether you’re an experienced seafarer or a sailing enthusiast ready to cast off, understanding how to inspect and maintain your sailboat’s standing rigging is crucial for smooth voyages on the high seas. In this detailed guide, we will unravel the mysteries of standing rigging examination and upkeep, enabling you to confidently navigate through any sailing adventure. So hoist your mainsail, secure your halyards, and let’s dive into the world of rigging maintenance !

1. Understanding Standing Rigging: Before we embark on our inspection journey, let’s clarify what exactly constitutes standing rigging. Embracing technical jargon like professionals often do, this refers to those sturdy wire cables that provide support to the mast and keep everything in place as your vessel slices through the waves. These cables are under constant stress from wind pressure and oceanic forces; therefore, routine inspections are vital.

2. Assemble Your Inspection Arsenal: Essential tools at hand? Check! Embark upon your quest equipped with binoculars (to assess hard-to-reach areas), a multimeter (for electrical testing), tape measure (we love accuracy!), a notepad (to document findings), lubricant spray can (to combat rust), and some good ol’ elbow grease.

3. Visual Inspection Bonanza: Begin by examining every component of your standing rigging thoroughly. Start from bow to stern – nothing should elude your gaze! Look out for signs of fraying wires, corrosion spots – identified by those elusive green spots -, improperly tightened connections or turnbuckles hanging loose like unfortunate pirate hooks. Pay close attention when checking shrouds and stays around their terminal points.

4. Tension Testing Zen: Employing a multimeter capable of measuring tension is vital for this next step. Like tuning an instrument, each cable must be correctly tensioned to ensure optimal performance . Begin at the base of your mast, working your way up one stay or shroud after another, carefully noting the readings. Adjust tensions as needed, using the manufacturer’s guidelines as your North Star.

5. Get Into Detailing Mode: To maintain a seaworthy craft, meticulousness is key! Start by cleaning every inch of standing rigging with fresh water and mild soap to rid it of salt crystals and other corrosive agents that Mother Nature throws our way. Once dry, inspect terminals for any hidden corrosion potential. Remember to apply lubrication around all fittings where metal meets metal – preserving their longevity on this salty adventure.

6. Diving into DIY Replacements: Sometimes, despite our best efforts, some elements may need replacement eventually. Worn-out or damaged fittings demand immediate action! While there are professionals who can lend a helping hand, attempting minor repairs yourself allows you to save time and money in the long run. Just remember safety first – secure your vessel properly before venturing aloft!

7. Periodic Inspections are Pathway to Peace: As the seasons go by and maritime miles accumulate beneath your hull’s keel, remember that rigging inspections should become regular occurrences in your life as a sailor. Incorporating these tasks into your annual maintenance routine will keep you up-to-date on the health of your standing rigging and reduce unexpected surprises during those thrilling offshore adventures.

Conclusion: With this comprehensive guide in tow, inspecting and maintaining standing rigging on a sailboat will no longer bewilder even the most landlocked soul. Armed with knowledge and armed-still-with tools-of-the-trade in hand – embark upon every voyage knowing that smooth sailing is within reach! Remember comrades: vigilance coupled with clever maintenance ensures many marvelous voyages atop Neptune’s watery kingdom!

The Key Components of Standing Rigging on a Sailboat Explained

When it comes to sailing, understanding the key components of standing rigging is crucial. This system of cables and wires plays a vital role in keeping a sailboat’s mast upright and ensuring the safety of everyone on board. So, let’s dive into these essential elements to unravel their importance and how they work together seamlessly.

1. Mast: The mast, often referred to as the backbone of a sailboat, is a tall vertical structure that supports the sails. It provides stability and acts as an attachment point for various components of the standing rigging.

2. Shrouds: Shrouds are strong steel or synthetic cables that extend from the top of the mast down to its sides, creating lateral support. Usually arranged in pairs, they help prevent excessive side-to-side movement and maintain proper alignment while under sail or at anchor .

3. Forestay: Situated at the front of the mast, directly opposite to where you stand while steering, is the forestay. This forward-facing cable keeps the mast from tipping backward due to wind pressure against the sails when sailing upwind. It ensures that your sailboat remains balanced even in gusty conditions.

4. Backstay: The backstay is another essential component that counterbalances the force exerted by the forestay on your sailboat’s mast when sailing upwind or under heavy loads. Most commonly attached at or near the highest part of your boat ‘s stern (aft end), this cable prevents undue bending or breaking caused by fore-aft pressure.

5. Tangs and Turnbuckles: These small yet mighty components connect shrouds and stays to both the hull and mast with ease and allow for easy adjustment and fine-tuning of tensioning within your standing rigging system. Tangs are fittings attached directly to masts or other structural components using bolts or screws, while turnbuckles provide threaded connections allowing for precise adjustments.

6. Spreaders: Installed horizontally on either side of the mast, spreaders play a crucial role in maintaining the integrity and proper angle of shrouds. They prevent excessive bending or twisting forces by creating a wider stance for the shrouds, ensuring even stress distribution.

7. Standing Rigging Lifelines: These lines, typically made of stainless steel wires or synthetic materials like Dyneema, serve as an additional safety measure by helping to prevent crew members from falling overboard while working on deck. Strategically placed along the sides of the sailboat, they offer stability and support during maneuvering or rough seas.

Understanding these key components is vital not only for sailboat owners but also for anyone interested in sailing . Proper maintenance and routine inspections are essential to ensure optimal performance and mitigate any risks associated with deficiencies within your standing rigging system.

So next time you set sail or find yourself gazing out at a beautifully rigged sailboat, take a moment to appreciate the intricate balance and coordination that these key components provide. It’s truly a remarkable collaboration between technology, engineering, and Mother Nature herself – allowing us to glide through the waves with grace and elegance.

Common FAQs about Standing Rigging on a Sailboats Answered

Introduction: Standing rigging is an essential component of sailboats, playing a crucial role in supporting the mast and ensuring optimal performance on the water. However, many sailors are often perplexed by various aspects of standing rigging, leading to a multitude of frequently asked questions. In this comprehensive blog post, we aim to answer some of the most common FAQs about standing rigging on sailboats, providing detailed and professional insights while adding a touch of wit and cleverness.

1. What exactly is standing rigging? Ah, standing rigging – the unsung hero of every sailboat! Standing rigging refers to all the fixed elements that support the mast in an upright position. These elements typically comprise stainless steel wires called shrouds and stays along with associated fittings like turnbuckles and tangs. Think of it as the sturdy backbone that keeps your mast from taking an inconvenient swim!

2. When should I inspect my standing rigging? Regular inspections are crucial for maintaining a safe sailing experience. We recommend inspecting your standing rigging at least once a year or before embarking on any long voyage. Additionally, keep an eye out for any signs indicating potential problems such as excessive rust, wire deformation, or frayed cables. Remember: It’s better to be safe on land than sorry at sea !

3. How do I know when it’s time to replace my standing rigging? While rigorous inspections can highlight any potential issues, there are certain indicators that suggest your standing rigging might need replacement sooner than later:

a) Age: As a general rule of thumb, consider replacing your standing rigging after 10-15 years. b) Visible damage: If you spot visible signs of wear and tear like broken strands or corroded fittings, it’s time for new gear. c) Elongation: In some cases, constant strain can cause wire elongation over time – if this exceeds manufacturer recommendations or 5%, it’s replacement time. d) Performance decline: Have you noticed reduced boat performance or excessive mast movement? Outdated rigging may be the culprit.

4. Can I inspect and replace standing rigging myself? Inspecting your own standing rigging is indeed possible if you possess adequate knowledge and experience. However, replacing it yourself requires specific expertise, so unless you’re a seasoned sailor with professional background in rigging, we highly recommend entrusting this task to certified riggers who can ensure everything is done correctly. After all, your safety should never be compromised!

5. How much does standing rigging replacement cost? Ah, the golden question! While costs can vary depending on factors like the size of your boat, the material used for new rigging (stainless steel or synthetic fibers), and labor expenses – expect to invest anywhere from a few thousand to tens of thousands of dollars for a complete standing rigging replacement. Remember that proper maintenance upfront can help extend the lifespan of your rigging and save you some precious doubloons!

6. Can I switch from stainless steel to synthetic fibers for my standing rigging? Absolutely! Synthetic fiber alternatives like Dyneema® have gained popularity due to their lighter weight, high strength-to-weight ratio, and lower corrosion risk compared to stainless steel. These materials offer enhanced performance capabilities and are a valid consideration when upgrading or replacing your standing rigging system entirely.

7. What’s the typical lifespan of synthetic fiber standing rigging? While longevity depends on various factors such as usage patterns and environmental conditions, well-maintained synthetic fiber standing rigging systems generally last around 10-12 years before requiring replacement – comparable to their stainless steel counterparts.

Conclusion: Standing rigging on sailboats may seem mysterious at first glance, but by answering these common FAQs with informative yet witty explanations, we hope to shed light on this crucial sailing component while bringing a smile to our readers’ faces. Remember, understanding and properly maintaining your standing rigging will ensure safe and enjoyable voyages for years to come. So, stay rig-ready and sail on!

Upgrading Your Standing Rigging: What You Need to Know

In the world of sailing, upgrading your standing rigging is a vital decision that can greatly impact your vessel’s performance and overall safety. The standing rigging, which includes the various wires and cables that hold the mast upright, plays an essential role in ensuring stability and proper sail control. In this blog post, we will delve into everything you need to know about this crucial aspect of sailing.

Firstly, why should you consider upgrading your standing rigging? Over time, wear and tear can take a toll on this crucial component of your boat . Exposure to harsh weather conditions, continuous strain from strong winds or heavy sails, and even galvanic corrosion can all lead to the degradation of your rigging. As a responsible sailor, it is imperative to regularly assess the condition of your standing rigging and determine when an upgrade is necessary.

When it comes to upgrading your standing rigging, there are several key factors you need to consider. One essential aspect is choosing the right materials for your new rigging. Traditionally, stainless steel has been widely used due to its durability and strength. However, recent advancements in composite materials have opened up new possibilities for sailors. High-tech fibers like carbon or aramid offer impressive strength-to-weight ratios while being less susceptible to corrosion than steel.

It is important to consult with an experienced rigger or marine engineer who can guide you in selecting the most suitable material for your specific sailing activities and vessel type. They will take into account factors such as boat size, intended use (racing or cruising), budget constraints, and local climate conditions before recommending the best material for your standing rigging upgrade.

Another crucial consideration in upgrading your standing rigging is determining whether you want to switch from wire rope-based rigging to rod-based systems or composite products. Rods are known for their superior stiffness and excellent fatigue resistance but may require specialized equipment for assembly and maintenance. Composite systems typically combine carbon fiber or fiberglass with a resin matrix, offering versatility and customization options.

Furthermore, when planning to upgrade your standing rigging, it’s essential to conduct a thorough inspection of the mast and fittings. Any signs of wear and tear, cracks, or deformations in the mast or associated hardware should not be overlooked. Reinforcing these components may be necessary before installing new rigging to ensure optimal safety and performance .

During the installation process itself, meticulous attention to detail is crucial. Proper tensioning and alignment of the rigging are vital for achieving optimal sailing performance . Consulting with professionals in the field will ensure that you avoid common pitfalls such as over-tensioning or under-tensioning your rigging, which can potentially compromise its strength and longevity.

Upgrading your standing rigging not only ensures a safer sailing experience but also presents an opportunity to enhance your vessel’s performance capabilities. By optimizing sail control and reducing overall weight aloft, you can achieve faster speeds and improved maneuverability on the water.

In conclusion, upgrading your standing rigging is an investment that should never be taken lightly. It requires careful consideration of multiple factors such as materials, boat specifications, and local conditions. Seeking expert advice throughout this process will help you make informed decisions that align with your sailing goals while ensuring maximum safety and enjoyment on the open seas . So don’t hesitate – take charge of your vessel’s integrity today by embarking on an exhilarating upgrade journey!

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Standing Rigging on a Sailboat

Title: Navigating the High Seas of Standing Rigging: Deconstructing Common Sailboat Troubles

Introduction: Setting sail on a beautiful day, wind in your hair, and salt in the air – there’s nothing quite like the freedom of sailing. But as any experienced sailor knows, with great freedom comes great responsibility; one must always be prepared to tackle common issues that can arise with standing rigging on a sailboat. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll be your navigational chart through the murky waters of troubleshooting these problems.

1. The Tale of Loose Wires: Picture this: you’re out at sea, enjoying the blissful embrace of nature when suddenly you notice an unsettling amount of slack in your boat’s rigging wires. As panic sets in, take a deep breath and remember that loose wires are not an uncommon predicament. Before jumping ship into despair, consider inspecting your turnbuckles for any signs of wear or corrosion. Often, a simple tightening or lubing can solve the issue and restore equilibrium to your rigging system.

2. Strange Groans from Your Mast: As the wind howls through your sails, does it feel like someone is playing an eerie tune on your mast? Fear not! These disconcerting noises can typically be traced back to halyards rubbing against sheaves or pulleys. Be diligent about inspecting these components and ensuring they are properly aligned and lubricated.

3. The Mystery of Shaky Connections: Imagine cruising along peacefully when you notice unsettling vibrations emanating from various connections within your standing rigging system – another nuisance faced by many sailors. Remember to check bolts and fittings for tightness and wear regularly; sometimes a mere tightening can spare you from enduring an inconvenient wobble during every voyage.

4. Elusive Corrosion Castaways: While corrosion may seem like a mythical creature lurking under layers of saltwater incantations, it sadly isn’t. The corrosive effects of the marine environment can take their toll on your rigging, leading to weakened and compromised wires. To avoid this encroaching villain, regularly inspect your rigging for signs of corrosion, paying extra attention to any dissimilar metals in contact with each other. When identified early, you can tackle this issue head-on through diligent cleaning and application of protective coatings.

5. That Perplexing Sag: No one wants a saggy rig! If you notice an unacceptable amount of slack or downward curve in your wire stays or shrouds when under load, it’s time to put on your problem-solving hat. Begin by ensuring that all turnbuckles are suitably tensioned and that the mast rake is properly adjusted. A little fine-tuning may be all it takes to regain the tautness required for smooth sailing .

6. Stay Seals Against Abrasion: Do you find your stay seals battling against wear and tear? It might be time to beef up their defenses! Insulate vulnerable areas with appropriately sized rubber tubing or durable tape like self-amalgamating tape. This extra layer of protection will help prevent damage from chafing lines or abrasive surfaces.

Conclusion: As sailboat enthusiasts know, standing rigging issues can arise unexpectedly and interrupt even the most idyllic voyages at sea. By keeping these troubleshooting considerations in mind while setting sail , you’ll have a handy compass to lead you through the challenges that come with maintaining a well-maintained rig. So next time the wind whispers trouble into your ears while adrift on your beautiful vessel, fear not – armed with knowledge and wit, you’ll conquer those common issues with ease and go back to enjoying the sublime freedom provided by sailing adventures!

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Maintaining standing rigging

Routine inspections and prompt maintenance should keep the mast where it's supposed to be­-up

Modern standing rigging needs remarkably little maintenance. The days of slushing the mast are long gone, but there are things to pay attention to and a bit of preventative maintenance to be concerned about.

The first thing to take a look at is to see that the rig actually fits your boat. An obvious point is length: Are the wires the correct length? Are the turnbuckles roughly centered up, such that the wire is not so short that the turnbuckle just engages, nor so long that the turnbuckle is totally cranked tight? A more subtle point is to check that the clevis pins match the wire terminals, mast tangs and chainplates. An undersized pin may look OK, but it presents a weak spot in your rig. A properly sized clevis pin is designed to spread the load it carries around the entire pin and what it interfaces to. A pin that is too small will point load and cause the mating surfaces to go oval. The next thing to check is the condition of the wire and terminals. Stainless steel wire and terminals are remarkably durable but they do not last forever. Stainless steel work hardens as it ages, it become more and more brittle, and corrosion is also an enemy. It is important to thoroughly check the wire and terminals at least once a season. Wire typically fails with strands breaking right at the swage. A close examination and luck can catch this as it is breaking, but it is far more likely to see an actual broken strand. Terminals will fail a few different ways, and a classic problem is the swage cracking. But threaded terminals can also fail right at the threads. Terminals on the lower end of the wire typically fail more quickly due the proximity to saltwater and the fact that they are wet more often.

Three types of inspections There are essentially three forms of rig inspection: a quick look at the rig with everything in sailing form, loosening things up and inspecting each terminal and pulling the mast to inspect each component intensively. You should take a quick look several times a year, a more in-depth look at least once a year, and you really should pull the stick to make sure everything is in order every four to five years. Of course, if you store seasonally with your mast down the schedule changes a bit. A great way to inspect rigging is with a handheld microscope. You can get an inexpensive microscope from Radio Shack; model 63-1313 is less than $20 and provides up to 100x magnification. Optically inspecting with a microscope is more practical and less expensive that dye testing or other methods. Assuming the wire all looks good, you'll need to take a look at the chainplates and mast tangs. Again you are looking for any cracking or corrosion. Chainplates will often fail at or below the deckline, as trapped moisture can cause the hidden stainless steel to succumb to crevice corrosion. Be sure to examine the mast tangs and especially the through-bolts. Wire halyards have been known to saw right through mast through-bolts over time.

Tune it up A rig will last much longer, and your boat will sail better, if it is properly tuned. A rig should not be too tight or too loose. A rig that is too tight puts additional static stretch on the wire and everything it is attached to. A rig that is too loose will shock load on every tack as the rig slams from tack to tack. A dramatically over-tightened rig can actually permanently damage the wire, which can stretch beyond its elastic recovery point and fail catastrophically. As I said, standing rigging doesn't last forever, and ideally it should be replaced before it fails. The lifetime of a rig is variable: it depends on the state of tune, the climate, water salinity and more. Worst case, a boat sailed hard in tropical conditions may need a new rig every five to seven years. A lightly sailed boat in fresh water can stretch this lifespan considerably, and 15 or more years is not unreasonable. A large portion of your rig is held together with cotter pins. They secure the clevis pins and hold the position of your turnbuckles. You may be tempted to replace your cotter pins with circular pins, sometimes called cotter rings or ring dings. These seem like a good idea, with no sharp edges and the fact that you can install and remove them without tools, but they are not secure. An errant sheet can snag a cotter ring and easily pull it out, if the ring is in a clevis pin the result could be devastating. A better solution is to use traditional cotter pins. You'll need to tape them to prevent sail and sheet damage, but they will stay put until you take them out. Speaking of tape, rigging tape or white electrical tape does the job, but you can get better tape at a better price at your local Home Depot. 3M Linerless Rubber Splicing Tape does a great job as rigging tape, yes it is black, but think of it as industrial chic. It is thicker, lasts longer and just plain works better. Best of all, a 30-foot roll is less than $15. Maintain the turnbuckles A part of your rig that does need true maintenance is the turnbuckles. Turnbuckles should be cleaned and lubricated periodically, and the procedure varies depending on what the turnbuckles are made of. Turnbuckle bodies are typically made of stainless steel or chrome-plated bronze. Usually traditional style open-body turnbuckles are bronze while the closed-body designs are stainless steel. The cleaning procedure is the same on both: just loosen the turnbuckle all the way and wipe the threads down with a rag dampened with mineral spirits. Lubrication of turnbuckles is a little more complicated. Stainless steel and bronze work well together, so with a plated turnbuckle you only need to reduce friction. In this case the turnbuckle should be lubricated with a dry lube such as McLube's Sailkote or any Teflon-based lubricant. In an all-stainless turnbuckle you need to be careful to avoid galling. Galling is a form of cold welding, where the metals actually fuse together on a molecular level, and it occurs when stainless parts interface without proper lubrication, it can cause turnbuckles threads to tear or in severe cases for the turnbuckle to seize up. You can avoid galling by lubricating the threads periodically. I have successfully used automotive anti-seize compound and Tef-Gel works well too. Use the lubricants sparingly, and you'll need to just be careful to not get the lube on sails and running rigging while in use. An even better solution, if possible, is to swap out the stainless steel body for a plated bronze version. You don't want to worry about your rig, and with a little attention your rig will last for many years. If you neglect things you could be facing a dramatic rig failure. The choice is fairly simple.

Also in Technique

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• Winch servicing
• Repairing delaminated core
• Splicing Dyneema
• DIY custom bug screens
• Anchoring and mooring a catamaran
• Co-owning a boat
• Installing a steering wheel
• Helming skills
• Captain your own charter

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• Tor Johnson
• Learn to Sail Better
• New boat: Aureus XV Absolute
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Yachting World

• Digital Edition

Pip Hare explains when to check and replace your standing rigging

• October 1, 2020

To prepare my IMOCA 60 Medallia for the Vendée Globe race, I have completed a full change of all the standing rigging

If the mast is stepped, the only way to thoroughly inspect rig fittings at the masthead is to go up there... Photo: James Mitchell

This was a ‘no brainer’ decision as my rigging has been around the world once already and I would never take it into the Southern Ocean for a second time.

In some ways it is easier to estimate the life of synthetic rigging, as it comes with a recommended mileage or stated lifespan if it can be UV damaged. For those with stainless steel rigging the decision on when to replace can be a harder one.

The main difficulties boat owners face when assessing the condition of the rig is the inability to see the first signs of wear, partly due to the majority of our rigging being out of sight in the sky, and partly due to the nature of metal fatigue itself.

Professional rig checks often lead to last-minute repairs for transatlantic ARC sailors. Photo: James Mitchell

The fact is that metal fatigue is inevitable and cannot be avoided. The only thing that will vary is the time a component takes to fail. So how can we make a good assessment of when rigging should be replaced?

There are a number of factors that will affect the lifespan of your standing rigging, most notably the initial quality of the rigging used and the type and frequency of sailing that you do.

Rigging quality

The quality of both wire and rod rigging is important because in both the crack initiation and growth phases of the fatigue process can be accelerated by metal impurities or unseen manufacturing defects in the component itself. Using high quality wire rigging from a well known supplier is a bigger initial outlay but the grade of metal used and manufacturing process should prolong the life of your rigging.

Article continues below…

How to prepare your yacht for anything: Preempting chafe, rig and crew problems

This is Part 2 of Vicky Ellis’ guide to preparing your yacht for any eventuality. You can read Part 1…

Ocean damage – tales of chafe, jury rigs and a shark on the rudder in the ARC

Crossing the Atlantic is hard on your gear, as the reports of ocean damage during the annual Atlantic Rally for…

When buying a secondhand boat, find out when the rigging was last replaced and try to get a copy of the invoice detailing who the supplier was – if you’re not sure, ask a rigger to take a look at it.

How you sail

In crude terms, every time your boat is used it is advancing the process of metal fatigue through the application of cyclical loads, so a boat that is raced regularly and hard will be approaching the point at which rigging failure could occur faster than a boat which is cruised intermittently.

This doesn’t mean that lightly used boats will never have to consider changing their rigging; even a dormant boat will be experiencing load cycles in some form when the mast is up. Just the action of the wind on a mast is enough to load up the rigging and any stays left loose will move with wind and wave action.

It’s not unusual for rigging wires to fracture around the swage collar

To minimise the stress caused by these load cycles while sailing it’s important to tune your rig regularly so the rigging is always at optimum tension. This will help ensure that changes in load are less extreme.

If you are not confident to set up your own rig tensions then ask your rigger to help, and later be sure to check your rig throughout the season.

Regular rigging checks

There are a couple of ways to test for early signs of fatigue not picked up by the naked eye; they include dye and NDT (non-destructive testing).

Water can enter swage terminals leading to crevis corrosion. Photo: Rupert Holmes

Both these surveys need to be carried out with the rig down and it may be worth balancing the overall cost of carrying out the test against the additional cost of re-rigging the boat, especially bearing in mind that if any faults or impurities are discovered your insurance may then require you to change the rigging anyway.

Regular visual checks should pick up the first signs of crack growth. Look for rust on T-terminals and at swage ends, check for powdery corrosion where T-terminals insert into the mast and any signs of cracking in the same area.

Run your fingers up and down the last metre of wire above or below the swage, feeling for deformities; if the wire is not uniform the chances are that one of the individual wires has broken, even if you can’t see it, and the stay and its partner should be replaced immediately.

Visual checks for rust and powdery corrosion are your first line of defence. Photo: Rupert Holmes

Checking the head of T-terminals is a harder job as they are inside the mast itself. This will need to be done with the mast removed so a full ‘mast down’ survey carried out by a professional rigger should be scheduled at least every three years.

Picking up early signs of corrosion or replacing select components after a thorough inspection is a worthwhile exercise because it may extend the lifespan of your standing rigging.

Inevitably your insurance policy will play a big part in your decision making about whether to replace your rigging. There has been a general assumption within the sailing community that insurance companies require rigging to be replaced after ten years, but I’ve found this is not actually the case; it’s far less prescriptive than that.

A small crack has developed in this stemhead fitting just above the forestay clevis pin

The IPID (Insurance Product Information Document) with your policy should give you a clear indication of what is covered in the event of a dismasting and may also provide some food for thought on when you should replace.

Insurance companies do not stipulate a timeframe at which your standing rigging should be replaced, but they do stipulate that all parts of the boat should be regularly and appropriately checked and maintained.

In the event of a dismasting claim, the insurance company would expect to see evidence of rigging maintenance and checks carried out at appropriate intervals by a qualified person; DIY inspections will not be accepted.

It is also worth taking note that in most insurance policies a depreciation element will be applied. This normally constitutes a deduction of one third of the new value of a rig and would start to come into play when a rig approaches 10-12 years old.

Emotional cost

There’s a consequential impact of a dismasting which cannot be covered by an insurance claim, and that is the human and emotional cost. In my own sailing career I’ve had two failures of standing rigging components which I spotted while sailing and was able to jury rig for a safe return to port. I’ve also experienced a dismasting, and I can vouch that it’s not a pleasant experience.

As a regular racer I take the health of my rig very seriously, perform checks before every major race and take my rig down annually for a thorough inspection. But this is the schedule that is right for me and the miles I sail, and would be considered overkill for the average sailor. Only you can give a proper evaluation of how often and how hard your boat is used, but that makes you ultimately responsible for setting the maintenance and replacement schedule.

Metal fatigue

Wires can break, unseen, within swaged terminals

Crack initiation starts when the metal first gets put to work and is caused by the cyclical loading of metal components. In the case of standing rigging on a sailing boat, this is the loading and unloading of shrouds and stays. Think about the windward shrouds loading up, while the leeward side relaxes: this cyclical loading causes cell structures to develop within the metal, these cells gradually harden and then develop microscopic cracks.

The crack growth stage follows next and these microscopic cracks will develop into larger ones, which may eventually be visible to the naked eye on the surface of the metal component. The speed of the crack growth phase will alter depending on how often and how hard your rigging is put under load.

Ultimate failure is caused when a crack exceeds a size that results in the component no longer supporting load. Failure will be sudden.

First published in the September 2020 issue of Yachting World.

Solo Challenge

Standing rigging: step by step guide on how to tune it on your sailboat

• Marco Nannini

In this article we will deal with the tuning of standing rigging of a typical sailboat. Speaking of standing rigging we have to open a parenthesis on the types of rigs possible for a sailboat.

Please note this article is a translation and may contain some errors for which I hope you’ll forgive us!

Standing rigging: the evolution of rig types and their tuning

Historically, the most traditional rig type is the masthead one. That is with the forestay and backstay attached to the masthead as fixed standing rigging that create traction in the opposite direction. The spreaders, in this case, are in line, perpendicular to the fore and aft axis of the boat. With a masthead rigged boat, the backstay can be used to increase forestay tension in high winds. At the same time, by vertical compression of the mast, tensioning the backstay causes a bending of the mast that flattens the main. The backstay is both an element of the standing rigging but can also be tuned.

Tensioning the backstay, the central part of the mast advances forward creating a slight “C” shape of the mast seen from the side. This curvature lets you bring the “fat” of the mainsail forward flattening the sail. Therefore, with a strong breeze, we can intervened on the backstay to reduce the forestay sag and flatten the mainsail. Both operations improve upwind performance.

Fractional rigs

For decades now, however, “fractional” rigs with swept back spreaders have been increasingly widespread. In this case the forestay does not reach the masthead but only up to seven eighths or nine tenths of the mast height and so do the attachments of the shrouds. The spreaders are not perpendicular to the fore-aft axis but swept towards the stern on the horizontal plane. The swept back spreaders ensure that the mast can stand up even without the backstay, which is no longer “structural”. That is, it is no longer one of the elements of the standing rigging (albeit adjustable). It becomes simply the means to adjust the mast bend and curvature and would be considered and its control line is therefore part of our running rigging.

This development has become more and more marked with boats with very wide spreaders and without backstay. The evolution started with offshore sailing boats such as the Mini 650s and Class40s and now it is very widespread also among cruising sailboats. By completely eliminating the backstay from the the list of elements constituting our standing rigging, which presented itself as an obstacle to increasing the roach of a mainsail, it is now possible to have all the roach we want and even “square top” mainsails.

Standing rigging tuning on fractional rigs with swept back spreaders

We will talk here specifically about boats with swept back spreaders. We have chosen a Class40, a sister-ship of the boat with which I competed in the Global Ocean Race 2011/2012. It’s a popular model of Class40, a first generation Akilaria RC1, designed by Mark Lombard, from around 2006. The rig of this boat is not particularly “extreme” or delicate, being the Class40s designed for great ocean navigation. The standing rigging is all rod on this boat.

Although the mast is made of carbon rather than aluminium, the rig is the same as that of a Mini 650 Pogo2 from Structures shipyard. The Pogo 2, designed around 2003-2004 is the Mini 650 with most boats built. This type of rig, nine tenths fractional, has two orders of spreaders. There is no backstay at all, which is common on many modern boats. By now, I would say, even on cruising boats it is one of the most common rig arrangements. It is adopted by shipyards such as Jeanneau and Beneteau, even for boats without oceanic ambitions.

This type of rig is fitted with a runner at the mast top and a checkstay at the height of the inner forestay. Runners and checkstays are not structural, therefore are not to be considered part of the standing rigging per se, the mast does not need them to stay up. I jibed without runners in 50 knots of wind and nothing happened. That said, runners and checks play a very important role in stabilising the mast and reducing its stress. When I run my training centre I used to say that they were not part of the standing rigging but that for good practice we would treat them as such.

Standing rigging and structural lazy jacks

As said, the backstay is simply not there, to make room for the “square top” mainsail. This is the same both on Mini 650s and on Class40s. There isn’t even a topping lift to support the boom when reefing. On a Mini 650, to avoid too many lines, and with a boom that weighs a few kilos, nothing replaces the topping lift. This means that when the main halyard is released, the boom falls onto the coach-roof. The boom will rise again when we tension the reef line and this rarely even needs the boom to be helped by hand.

On the Class40, even though the boom is made of carbon, we can imagine how much the boom plus mainsail would weigh especially if full of water. The problem is solved with the introduction of “structural lazy jacks”. What is meant when we say they are structural? Their role is not simply to contain the main when dowsing it. They replace the topping lift and support the boom. Usually they are made with dyneema and not just simple polyester. They are adjustable both to raise the boom in port and to put them at rest during navigation.

Standing rigging and runners and checkstays

On boats with swept back spreaders, runners and checkstays are not structural. Despite the absence of a backstay it’s not runners or checkstays that keep the mast up. That said, they play a very important role – they help provide additional support for the mast. For example, for ocean-crossing boats, runners and checkstays help stabilise the mast and prevent it from pumping or bending. In addition, runners reach the masthead. With a fractional rig they provide extra support, and become partially “structural” in reducing the workloads of the last part of the mast not reached by the shrouds.

That said, on a nine-tenths rig it is unlikely that you could break the mast tip under spinnaker just because you did not set the runner. I am not aware of any such cases among Class40s. Certainly distributing the tension between runner and checkstay greatly reduces the load of the standing rigging. The checkstay, on the other hand, usually points where the foresail forestay attachment is located. In addition to acting as a support for the mast in general, it allows you to decrease forestay sag without adding compression to the mast.

Standing rigging: how to proceed with tuning your standing rigging

After this introduction, let’s move on to a practical case. Let’s consider the mast of a Class40, with two orders of swept back spreaders and its standing rigging. Hence, we have non-structural runners and checks, no backstay and no topping life. When I arrived on this boat to check the mast, there were two problems noticeable with the naked eye. First of all, the mast was not straight, it pulled to the left until the first set of spreaders. Then it made a bend to the right and then back to the left between the second set of spreaders to the masthead.

Seen from the side, the mast showed excessive rake and pre-bend that needed correcting. So we had left-right and fore-aft problems. In addition to this it was clear that when the starboard runners and checkstay were tensioned, the mast deteriorated in shape. In particular, the curvature between the first set of spreaders and the masthead increased. To fix a mast like this, with multiple problems, you need to have a method to get to a satisfactory result.

As for the adjustments to runners and checkstays, I leave them last, as we will see there are various options on how to use them. First we wanted to take care of putting the mast straight and solve the problem of its excessive rake. The rake shifts the sail centre aft and the bend in the mast flattens the sail, both of which we do not want in light winds. Since this boat is sailed in the Mediterranean we must have a good light wind setup and be able to intervene on the shape of the sail as the wind increases.

Standing rigging: how to put straighten the mast

The boat was in the water, we first had to avoid the risk of unscrewing a turnbuckle and accidentally unhooking a shroud. Since it was not me who had mounted the mast, I could not be sure that the turnbuckles had been inserted correctly, i.e. be exactly level with the same number of turns on the upper and lower par. This means that the threads are not screwed in equally. The lazy rigger screws the turnbuckle on deck a few turns so that he has only to hook the vertical shroud, the V1.

So, in order to avoid any dangers, we set the inner forestay (to double up with the forestay). We also set runners and checkstays just for safety. These work laterally to support the mast. We also attached spinnaker halyards one to the left and one to starboard to an eyebolt.

With a bent mast the first thing really is to understand was why it is so. So we measured the total length of the left and starboard turnbuckle system for both the vertical shrouds (V1) and the low diagonals (D1). Differences emerged immediately, the D1 on the left was about 1cm shorter than the one on the right. This explained why the mast started veering to the left. The port V1 was 2cm shorter than the starboard V1. This explained why the head of the mast pointed to the left after the initial bend. The curve to starboard between the first and second set of spreaders was attributable to the upper diagonal D2 on the starboard side, which was tighter than the left one.

Standing rigging: resetting everything to zero

With the boat in the water and not wanting to take any risk, we didn’t want to get to unhook any turnbuckle. This is to avoid the unpleasant situation of having a hard time getting to re-attach one. This could happen if there’s something inherently wrong with the measures taken that would forced you to work at the limit of the available turns. However we had to make some assumption and one was that each pair of shrouds would be the same length. I.e., that the problems were only in the adjustments of the turnbuckles.

When riggers cut rigging in the workshop they are very unlikely to make pairs of shrouds of different lengths. Therefore, except in exceptional cases, starting from this assumption is more than reasonable. By measuring the total length of the turnbuckles and exposed thread, many things could be deduced. In our case it was evident that the port turnbuckle had many more turns than the starboard side, compared to the thread of the V1 above. That is, the turnbuckles had not been hooked and tightened at the same simultaneously on lower and upper thread.

First of all, we unscrewed the turnbuckles of the V1s, whilst holding the upper threaded part integral together with the turnbuckle. This is possible because the rod shroud is free to rotate inside its T-Cup at the spreader. If it does not rotate, spray some WD40 but never twist the rod rigging. With this procedure we were able to restore a situation where the two V1s shrouds were the same length and with the same adjustment. We repeated the exercise for the low diagonals D1s.

Standing rigging: loosen everything

To bring everything back to zero tension, I went up to the first set of spreaders and loosened the D2s which I would then adjusted last. For the moment I wanted to see the mast without no tension in the D2s. Their role is to prevent the mast from bending to leeward between the first and second spreader levels, especially upwind. As we were stationary in port and without sails, I could totally ignore the D2s until the end.

After that I went back to looking at the mast track and, no wonder, the mast was perfectly straight on the left-right axis without any curvatures. This is not to say it was already set right, but we had zeroed the lateral tension errors.

Standing rigging: rake and pre-bend

The rake depends on the relationship between the length of the forestay and the shrouds as a whole. On this boat only the V1s on deck are adjustable, the rest of the shroud is of fixed length. So the rake is controlled by adjusting the stay length and the V1s. The bend instead arises from compression of the mast given by the tension of the V1s, these pull down the mast that bends forward. The tension of the low diagonals D1s controls the angle up to the first set of spreaders of the overall curvature that the mast takes up to the masthead.

To reduce the bend we had to reduce tension of the V1s but also monitor the tension of the D1s. That is, if the D1s are too tight and the V1s too, we can even force in an inverse curvature. I.e the mast will go backwards to the first level of spreaders then stard bending forward from there to the masthead. This especially with loose D2s that do not prevent the section above from bending forward.

We therefore started by loosening the V1s by two full turns, observing a reduction the bend. The overall rake was still excessive. This can be measured by hanging a full bucket of water on the main halyard and letting it hung just above the deck. The distance between the halyard and the mast at the boom is your rake. We had no option but to intervene by shortening the forestay, which in this case was adjustable.

Standing rigging: adjusting the forestay

The forestay turnbuckle in this case, and like on many other boats, was inside the furling drum. Once the sail was lowered and the retaining bolts were unscrewed, it was possible to raise the drum and access the forestay turnbuckle. Before tightening the forestay, however, I wanted to loosen the the V1s a little so as not to induce further compression in the mast. To preserve the left-right adjustment symmetry, we unscrewed the V1s turnbuckles two full turns each side. We took then tightened the forestay by the same two full turns on the turnbuckle.

Each complete turn corresponded to approximately 3-4 millimetres in length. Two full turns lengthened the V1s by 7-8mm and the impact was visible to the naked eye. I could measure the rake with a bucket, but I had somewhat of a historical memory of the setting of that mast. In fact, I had sailed on an identical boat for a total of about 60,000 miles. So in all fairness, I was trusting my eyes. We removed two more turns from the V1s and took them back at the forestay. A change of about 1.5cm that was well noticeable at a height of 20 meters.

For example, when setting the runners, it was noticeable that the working points of the control lines had moved by about 20cm. The de-multiplication of the runner pulleys obviously amplified the effect on the control line. It was clear, however, that we had moved the mast head forward several centimetres and the excess rake was gone. We gave the forestay one more turn and removed a turn from the V1s and we were satisfied. The amount of rake optimal rake is usually provided by the designer so you can do this job with absolute precision.

Standing rigging: pre-bend

The pre-bend, at a given a setting of the V1s, is controlled by the tension of the D1s and D2s. The goal is to give the mast a beautiful shape that does not have strange kinks in its curvature and especially any inversions etc. In our case the mast bent too far forward and the forestay was particularly soft. This meant that the V1s tension encountered no resistance to mast compression. With the D2s completeley loose, the D1s were obviously too soft too. All the vertical tension turned into compression and bend.

By giving the D1s a few symmetrical left-right turns we were able to straighten the lower part of the mast. The curvature was accentuated between the first spreaders and the masthead so I went up to the D2s to give a first rough and symmetrical adjustment. Once on deck I noticed that the mast was much better already, the forestay was tighter, even though we hadn’t touched the V1s at all. But, the overall curve of the three “sections” of the mast was not yet regular. I therefore decided to tighten further the D1s by a turn and the D2s by two.

Looking at the mast from the side you could see a beautiful shape without irregularities that gently curved back. I was satisfied with the shape and only the sea trials could have confirmed the correct setting of the D2. If these are too soft the mast will sag to leeward between the first spreader and masthead. If they are both too tight the mast becomes straight like a telegraph pole losing its beautiful shape.

Standing rigging: the overall tension of forestay and V1s

For a rod of the size we were adjusting we needed a large and very expensive tension measurement tool. The spring-loaded ones suitable for adjusting the shrouds of a Mini 650 are useless. So, I resorted to trusting my “sensorial” memory. Taking V1s and D1s and shaking them,  hitting them, you get a feel for their. Shaking the furled headsail gives an idea of ​​the tension of the forestay. I relied on my historical memory and everything seemed to me in order.

The mast of the Class40s are, pass me the term, quite “ignorant”, and don’t it is not about fine tuning that last half turn. These are boats where you usually an average setting and not touch it before a specific event. This is because upwind mast is fully loaded at just 15-16 knots after which you need to reduce sail. So unless you had to do a short inshore event with light airs predicted changing the setting for each and especially longer races makes no sense.

We had created a perfectly straight mast track, an adequate rake and a pre-bend. It was time to move on runners and checkstays to decide if something needed changing. Before adjusting them, however, we could use them to do a test on the adjustment so far of our mast. I.e. tension them and observe the effect on the mast, which for this type of boats does not have to be significant (I’ll come back to this point). Tightening the left runner-checkstay pair seemed more or less ok. Starboard we clearly had a problem, the mast would bend to windward at the height of the second set of spreaders.

Adjusting runners and checkstays

On this Class40 the runner was attached to the first pulley and therefore its length was a given and could not be adjusted. The checkstay, instead, was tied to the first pulley with a lashing so that it could be adjusted in length. As mentioned, runners can be used in different ways. On some boats a loop with T-bone is is used to shorten the checkstay lashing by a few centimetres. With this expedient you can shorten the checkstay relative to the runner to the point that you set the checkstay and the runner remains effectively loose.

When the T-bone is undone, the runnner has more relative tension than the checkstay as by undoing the T-bone we have effectively lengthened the checkstay. This allows us to run high and increase mast bend with a full mainsail. Once the wind increases and we take the first reef, the runner is no longer needed (especially upwind). So we can put back the T-bone that shortens checkstay and use it as a counter cable for the inner forestay. The inner forstay and the staysail come up in about 16 knots of wind.

This system with T-bone on the checkstay give you maximum flexibility and is obviously suitable for those who know how to use it. However, in long race, especially single-handed, offshore, it has some “human” contraindications. Having to remember this T-bone day and night in every situation is not the best of proposition. We have also said that the mast of a Class40 is not quite so bendable and adjustable. The t-bone extra adjustment will not give you extraordinary gains and advantages upwind as there’s only so much extra bend you can put in with a runner and loose checkstay. All in all it will probably only change your solent to staysail switch point by a knot of wind or two.

A setting for inshore events and one for offshore racing

My personal opinion is that when offshore racing it is best to avoid easily avoidable risks. This T-bone, if forgotten closed, supports the mast only at the level of spreaders, leaving the masthead free. Imagine bearing away, removing the genoa and hoisting a large spi. Suddenly you run the risk that with enough wind the checkstay could even cause the mast to reverse its curvature with the masthead going forward and the lower part held back by the tight checkstay.

Balancing the risks and benefits, at the end of the day, on my boat I decided to eliminate the T-bone and seek for a medium setting. To do this we tighten the runner with the checkstay lashing very short to start with. We progressively lengthen the checkstay lashing until we get to a setting where, when tightening runner and checkstay there is a similar tension on both. If we observe the mast we will also notice that this setting will mean that when tightening runners and checkstay there isn’t much change in mast shape. We forego some fine tuning for safety offshore.

The very fact that the mast remained straight even when runner and checkstay were tightened gave me good confidence that I had already adjusted the D2s correctly. In fact, if the D2s had been too soft, when tightening the checkstay the mast would bend to windward. I can do the reverse test and see if the opposite set causes bend to “leeward”. If the D2s are set correctly setting each pair of runners and checks in turn should not produce any curvature either side from the first spreader to the masthead.

Standing rigging: sea trials

Having worked and checked with runners and checks the sea trial was more for the pleasure of ending the day with some sailing. The wind was not much but enough to load the mainsail close-hauled and verify that the mast remained straight. We had no doubts having already simulated the effort with checkstays. Everything was in order throwing in a few tacks confirmed that the boat made sailed the same angle to the wind on both tacks. This was not the case before, with a perceptible difference of several degrees.

Standing rigging: conclusions

Adjusting the rigging of a sailboat is less complicated than you imagine. But I have seen many badly adjusted masts and not by just a little. If you put your hands on the standing rigging without following a sequence and without knowing what you are doing, you end up like a dog chasing its tail. It is important to understand the influence of stay-V1 on the rake. The influence of forestay-V1 and D1 on the bend of the mast up to the first spreader. Finally, the role of the D2s in counteracting or favouring the bend between the first set of spreaders and the masthead. This on a mast with two sets of spreaders.

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The Standing Rigging On A Sailboat Explained

The standing rigging on a sailboat is a system of stainless steel wires that holds the mast upright and supports the spars.

In this guide, I’ll explain the basics of a sailboat’s hardware and rigging, how it works, and why it is a fundamental and vital part of the vessel. We’ll look at the different parts of the rig, where they are located, and their function.

We will also peek at a couple of different types of rigs and their variations to determine their differences. In the end, I will explain some additional terms and answer some practical questions I often get asked.

But first off, it is essential to understand what standing rigging is and its purpose on a sailboat.

The purpose of the standing rigging

Like I said in the beginning, the standing rigging on a sailboat is a system of stainless steel wires that holds the mast upright and supports the spars. When sailing, the rig helps transfer wind forces from the sails to the boat’s structure. This is critical for maintaining the stability and performance of the vessel.

The rig can also consist of other materials, such as synthetic lines or steel rods, yet its purpose is the same. But more on that later.

Since the rig supports the mast, you’ll need to ensure that it is always in appropriate condition before taking your boat out to sea. Let me give you an example from a recent experience.

Dismasting horrors

I had a company inspect the entire rig on my sailboat while preparing for an Atlantic crossing. The rigger didn’t find any issues, but I decided to replace the rig anyway because of its unknown age. I wanted to do the job myself so I could learn how it is done correctly.

Not long after, we left Gibraltar and sailed through rough weather for eight days before arriving in Las Palmas. We were safe and sound and didn’t experience any issues. Unfortunately, several other boats arriving before us had suffered rig failures. They lost their masts and sails—a sorrowful sight but also a reminder of how vital the rigging is on a sailboat.

The most common types of rigging on a sailboat

The most commonly used rig type on modern sailing boats is the fore-and-aft Bermuda Sloop rig with one mast and just one headsail. Closely follows the Cutter rig and the Ketch rig. They all have a relatively simple rigging layout. Still, there are several variations and differences in how they are set up.

A sloop has a single mast, and the Ketch has one main mast and an additional shorter mizzen mast further aft. A Cutter rig is similar to the Bermuda Sloop with an additional cutter forestay, allowing it to fly two overlapping headsails.

You can learn more about the differences and the different types of sails they use in this guide. For now, we’ll focus on the Bermuda rig.

The difference between standing rigging and running rigging

Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly:

The  rig  or  rigging  on a sailboat is a common term for two parts:

• The  standing rigging  consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the sails when sailing.
• The  running rigging  consists of the halyards, sheets, and lines we use to hoist, lower, operate, and control the sails on a sailboat.

Check out my guide on running rigging here !

The difference between a fractional and a masthead rig

A Bermuda rig is split into two groups. The  Masthead  rig and the  Fractional  rig.

The  Masthead  rig has a forestay running from the bow to the top of the mast, and the spreaders point 90 degrees to the sides. A boat with a masthead rig typically carries a bigger overlapping headsail ( Genoa)  and a smaller mainsail. Very typical on the Sloop, Ketch, and Cutter rigs.

A  Fractional  rig has forestays running from the bow to 1/4 – 1/8 from the top of the mast, and the spreaders are swept backward. A boat with a fractional rig also has the mast farther forward than a masthead rig, a bigger mainsail, and a smaller headsail, usually a Jib. Very typical on more performance-oriented sailboats.

There are exceptions in regards to the type of headsail, though. Many performance cruisers use a Genoa instead of a Jib , making the difference smaller.

Some people also fit an inner forestay, or a babystay, to allow flying a smaller staysail.

Explaining the parts and hardware of the standing rigging

The rigging on a sailing vessel relies on stays and shrouds in addition to many hardware parts to secure the mast properly. And we also have nautical terms for each of them. Since a system relies on every aspect of it to be in equally good condition, we want to familiarize ourselves with each part and understand its function.

Forestay and Backstay

The  forestay  is a wire that runs from the bow to the top of the mast. Some boats, like the Cutter rig, can have several additional inner forestays in different configurations.

The  backstay  is the wire that runs from the back of the boat to the top of the mast. Backstays have a tensioner, often hydraulic, to increase the tension when sailing upwind. Some rigs, like the Cutter, have running backstays and sometimes checkstays or runners, to support the rig.

The primary purpose of the forestay and backstay is to prevent the mast from moving fore and aft. The tensioner on the backstay also allows us to trim and tune the rig to get a better shape of the sails.

The shrouds are the wires or lines used on modern sailboats and yachts to support the mast from sideways motion.

There are usually four shrouds on each side of the vessel. They are connected to the side of the mast and run down to turnbuckles attached through toggles to the chainplates bolted on the deck.

• Cap shrouds run from the top of the mast to the deck, passing through the tips of the upper spreaders.
• Intermediate shrouds  run from the lower part of the mast to the deck, passing through the lower set of spreaders.
• Lower shrouds  are connected to the mast under the first spreader and run down to the deck – one fore and one aft on each side of the boat.

This configuration is called continuous rigging. We won’t go into the discontinuous rigging used on bigger boats in this guide, but if you are interested, you can read more about it here .

Shroud materials

Shrouds are usually made of 1 x 19 stainless steel wire. These wires are strong and relatively easy to install but are prone to stretch and corrosion to a certain degree. Another option is using stainless steel rods.

Rod rigging

Rod rigging has a stretch coefficient lower than wire but is more expensive and can be intricate to install. Alternatively, synthetic rigging is becoming more popular as it weighs less than wire and rods.

Synthetic rigging

Fibers like Dyneema and other aramids are lightweight and provide ultra-high tensile strength. However, they are expensive and much more vulnerable to chafing and UV damage than other options. In my opinion, they are best suited for racing and regatta-oriented sailboats.

Wire rigging

I recommend sticking to the classic 316-graded stainless steel wire rigging for cruising sailboats. It is also the most reasonable of the options. If you find yourself in trouble far from home, you are more likely to find replacement wire than another complex rigging type.

Relevant terms on sailboat rigging and hardware

The spreaders are the fins or wings that space the shrouds away from the mast. Most sailboats have at least one set, but some also have two or three. Once a vessel has more than three pairs of spreaders, we are probably talking about a big sailing yacht.

A turnbuckle is the fitting that connects the shrouds to the toggle and chainplate on the deck. These are adjustable, allowing you to tension the rig.

A chainplate is a metal plate bolted to a strong point on the deck or side of the hull. It is usually reinforced with a backing plate underneath to withstand the tension from the shrouds.

The term mast head should be distinct from the term masthead rigging. Out of context, the mast head is the top of the mast.

A toggle is a hardware fitting to connect the turnbuckles on the shrouds and the chainplate.

How tight should the standing rigging be?

It is essential to periodically check the tension of the standing rigging and make adjustments to ensure it is appropriately set. If the rig is too loose, it allows the mast to sway excessively, making the boat perform poorly.

You also risk applying a snatch load during a tack or a gybe which can damage the rig. On the other hand, if the standing rigging is too tight, it can strain the rig and the hull and lead to structural failure.

The standing rigging should be tightened enough to prevent the mast from bending sideways under any point of sail. If you can move the mast by pulling the cap shrouds by hand, the rigging is too loose and should be tensioned. Once the cap shrouds are tightened, follow up with the intermediates and finish with the lower shrouds. It is critical to tension the rig evenly on both sides.

The next you want to do is to take the boat out for a trip. Ensure that the mast isn’t bending over to the leeward side when you are sailing. A little movement in the leeward shrouds is normal, but they shouldn’t swing around. If the mast bends to the leeward side under load, the windward shrouds need to be tightened. Check the shrouds while sailing on both starboard and port tack.

Once the mast is in a column at any point of sail, your rigging should be tight and ready for action.

If you feel uncomfortable adjusting your rig, get a professional rigger to inspect and reset it.

How often should the standing rigging be replaced on a sailboat?

I asked the rigger who produced my new rig for Ellidah about how long I could expect my new rig to last, and he replied with the following:

The standing rigging should be replaced after 10 – 15 years, depending on how hard and often the boat has sailed. If it is well maintained and the vessel has sailed conservatively, it will probably last more than 20 years. However, corrosion or cracked strands indicate that the rig or parts are due for replacement regardless of age.

If you plan on doing extended offshore sailing and don’t know the age of your rig, I recommend replacing it even if it looks fine. This can be done without removing the mast from the boat while it is still in the water.

How much does it cost to replace the standing rigging?

The cost of replacing the standing rigging will vary greatly depending on the size of your boat and the location you get the job done. For my 41 feet sloop, I did most of the installation myself and paid approximately $4700 for the entire rig replacement.

Can Dyneema be used for standing rigging?

Dyneema is a durable synthetic fiber that can be used for standing rigging. Its low weight, and high tensile strength makes it especially popular amongst racers. Many cruisers also carry Dyneema onboard as spare parts for failing rigging.

How long does dyneema standing rigging last?

Dyneema rigging can outlast wire rigging if it doesn’t chafe on anything sharp. There are reports of Dyneema rigging lasting as long as 15 years, but manufacturers like Colligo claim their PVC shrink-wrapped lines should last 8 to 10 years. You can read more here .

Final words

Congratulations! By now, you should have a much better understanding of standing rigging on a sailboat. We’ve covered its purpose and its importance for performance and safety. While many types of rigs and variations exist, the hardware and concepts are often similar. Now it’s time to put your newfound knowledge into practice and set sail!

Or, if you’re not ready just yet, I recommend heading over to my following guide to learn more about running rigging on a sailboat.

Sharing is caring!

Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

Very well written. Common sense layout with just enough photos and sketches. I enjoyed reading this article.

Thank you for the kind words.

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Inspecting Sailboat Rigging

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Here's how to go over your rig with a fine tooth comb.

Sight up the mast. Is it straight?

If there's one thing production sailboats have in common, it's that nearly all of them use stainless-steel standing rigging, whether wire or rod. There are likely also stainless steel fittings, chainplates and turnbuckles. Stainless steel is a great material for rigging but has its Achilles heel: corrosion. Stainless steel in a saltwater environment will eventually suffer from some form of corrosion, whether it's stress-crack corrosion, fatigue cracking or crevice corrosion. Sailboat rigging in freshwater may also suffer from stress and fatigue cracking (see below). What might appear to be a small crack or area of pitting will degrade the fitting by eating away at the metal. Any cracks or corrosion will weaken the fitting, and the failure of a single fitting can bring down a rig.

Stainless Steel Failures

Stainless-steel rigging under heavy stress can have stress cracking or fractures that will often be identified by hairline cracks. These cracks will lead to stress-crack corrosion and crevice corrosion in the saltwater environment.

Crevice corrosion can also develop in areas of pitting when the stainless steel is devoid of oxygen. This is the most common form of corrosion on a stainless-steel chainplate. This chainplate was cut in half to demonstrate how far the pitting went into the metal.

1. Take a look at the overall rig

Sight up the rig from deck level. How is the geometry? All stays and shrouds should be run without any bends and at even angles. Are there hard spots or kinks where a stay has an awkward bend? Standing in front of the mast, sight up from the base. Is the mast in column (straight)? There should be no bends in the mast side-to-side or facing forward. Walk around to all of the shrouds and stays and give them a pull. They all should feel roughly at the same tension. To be accurate, you would want to use a tension gauge. But when I first start inspecting a rig, I'm mostly trying to get a feel if anything appears to be dramatically out of tune.

Left: Inspect swages carefully for corrosion; this swage has broken strands. Right: This crack was only visible after cleaning off the surface rust.

2. Inspect all the deck fittings and wire.

If the mast is deck-stepped, start at the base, looking for corrosion on the step and cracks in the base of the mast. Then working clockwise to make sure you don't miss anything, inspect all fittings from eye level to deck level including swages/mechanical fittings, turnbuckles, chainplates, and toggles. Start with the wire at eye level, and scan downward, checking for rust and broken strands. For rod rigging, we're looking for cracks or corrosion. Take a good look for corrosion where the wire enters the swage or mechanical fitting. Next check the t-bolts, tangs, turnbuckles, and pins. Clean any rust off with the Scotch-Brite pad. This is important: anything more than light rust staining could be an indication of crevice corrosion, which weakens the metal. You may not be able to remove all of the rust, but you do need to see the underlying metal. Use your magnifying glass to look for cracks and pitting on the fitting. The turnbuckles should be straight without any bend to them. Inspect the condition of the threads of the stud. Ensure the turnbuckles have locking pins. Photograph the fittings, especially where you think you have sighted a crack or pitting. Get up close with the camera on the macro setting and make sure that the area of concern is in focus; this is important when you enlarge the photo later.

This chainplate has a crack just above where it passes through the deck.

3. Pay attention to the chainplates.

Inspect the caulking where it enters the deck; it should not be cracked or peeling. Look for cracks in the chainplates on the edges and especially around the pinholes. For external chainplates, inspect along the edges for cracks and rust blooms. A small amount of rust may be OK; it might just be staining, though it should still be investigated. But significant rust is a sign that there may be crevice corrosion, which is a reason to pull and inspect the chainplates. Unfortunately, the area that is probably affected the most is buried and not visible unless the chainplate is removed. Stainless-steel corrosion happens much faster when there is no oxygen present — like where the chainplates pass through the deck, which is why we'll inspect them belowdecks as well.

Look for peeling paint, which may be a sign of corrosion, and cracks at the gooseneck and other boom fittings.

4. Inspect all attachments to the mast and boom on deck and at eye level.

Inspect the gooseneck fitting for the mast and the vang attachment for corrosion or cracks. Any attachment points on the boom for running rigging also need to be inspected. Again, take close-up photos if you find any problems. Check all blocks to make sure they turn freely. All shackles should be secured with seizing wire. The winches need to turn freely and stop when the direction is reversed. Do the line stoppers stop the line? Give the line a good tug with the line stopper closed. There should be no movement. Inspect each piece of the running rigging for wear. What is the condition of the halyard and the safety line (a second halyard) you will use for going aloft? Don't take chances here.

Check for white powder and pitting on aluminum mast steps and at the base of the mast.

5. Inspect the condition of the mast step.

Mast steps here are often in a damp environment, and a lot of mast steps are made from non-stainless steel on older boats, which can rust. Some boats have an aluminum mast step. If the step or base of the mast is corroding, it will have white powder on it. Remove the powder and look for pitting underneath. If you find pitting here, or on any other aluminum fitting, such as the mast or boom, have a rigger follow up with a professional inspection.

Painting chainplates is a bad idea because it hides corrosion. Once rust is visible through the paint, the corrosion is severe, and the chainplate will need to be replaced.

6. Go below to take a look at the chainplates.

Are there signs of water intrusion on the bulkheads? You might have to remove some cover panels to gain access to the chainplates. Are there signs of rust? Clean any rust with your nylon pad. Use a flashlight and your magnifying glass to inspect the chainplate carefully. Pay close attention to the edges of the chainplate for rust and cracks. Cracks and corrosion can develop behind the chainplate and where it passes through the deck. Again, these are areas that are deprived of oxygen where crevice corrosion will develop. Chainplates don't last forever, and if you want to be absolutely sure you can count on them, I'd recommend replacing them after 20 years of service or if there are any signs of crevice corrosion, which can happen in less than 15 years in harsh environments.

Broken wire at swage fitting on a catamaran mast head.

7. If you found no deficiencies then it is time to go up the mast.

If you are not comfortable, then I recommend having a professional rigger conduct the aloft part of the inspection. Never do this by yourself, even if you have a hoist that allows you to do so. Have someone there to assist you and to manage your safety line. For the aloft portion of the inspection, work your way up from the bottom, rather than starting at the top. This way, if you are at the spreaders and find a cracked swage fitting, you can make the decision to stop. This part of the inspection will be conducted in the same manner as the lower fittings and chainplates, this time also paying close attention to where fasteners are installed into the mast. On an unpainted aluminum mast, we are looking for the white powder and pitting which are signs of corrosion and can lead to hairline cracks. Again, if you clean the powder away and find pitting, you'll need to have a professional rigger take a look. On a wooden mast, you're looking for soft wood and discoloration where the fastener goes into the wood. For carbon fiber you're looking for cracks. Inspect the spreader ends and tips for wear and the condition of the boots.

8. Thought you were finished?

Not yet. Now go find somewhere comfortable and view all of your photos on a tablet or computer. Enlarge them to help find any cracks or pitting. This is why you took your photos in order and made notes about what was what. Discuss any of your findings that concern you with a professional rigger. Save all of your photos in a file so you can compare them the next time you do the inspection.

Now that you've done a bottom-to-top rig inspection, you can feel more comfortable the next time the wind pipes up. At the beginning of each season, take an hour or so to re-inspect the rig, focusing on the areas you might have noted to keep an eye on.

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When should standing rigging be replaced?

• Thread starter Project_Mayhem
• Start date Nov 9, 2020
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Project_Mayhem

I've read that standing rigging should be replaced anywhere from 10 all the way up to 20 years and also simply based on condition. My boat has been in fresh water all its life. To the best of my knowledge it hasn't had a trailer until last year so the mast was up through the winter. Most recent receipt was for lower stays 10 years ago. Overall condition is good with some kinks here and there. No signs of corrosion or stray strands anywhere. Would you replace this?  

If you have (reasonable) evidence that the PO replaced only the worst sections, it's safe to assume that the rest of the rig is getting ancient and failure prone. 20 years is what we go by for fresh water usage, for a max time.... and matter of fact we are now replacing our 2004 complete rig. Be sure to replace the turn buckles also -- not much more $, and it's great to be sure of the integrity of the entire rig.  

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

Standing rigging replacement. Just got home from my first sail with my 7 year grandson on my 47 year old boat. One of his first observations “Granddad that’s a pretty big pole. Is it going to fall down, cause that would hurt.” When and why do you change standing rigging. Easy answer “before it can fall down.” There is sailors knowledge based on observations and experiences that have formed the rules of thumb. 6-10 years for salt water exposed rigging and 15-25 years for fresh water rigging. Rough guides that depend on location of the boats sailing experience, how the boat has been used, and how the boat will be used. On a new to me boat I want to know the condition by inspection of the rigging and all the connections to the mast and hull. If I’m a day sailor with close proximity to repairs and my mast is easily fixed/taken down that is different than if I am planning an extended cruise isolated from repair resources and skilled help. Racing and heavy weather sailing tests the strength of the rigging. Replacement of the rigging components is more frequent and based on inspection. Kinks in wire is like chafe on a line. It requires more careful consideration of condition, usage, and inspection for signs of failure. Proper size and material components for the rig are further consideration. When I refitted my mast and rigging I had the help of a seasoned rigger. He advised that with the size of my mast, the manufacturer was known to have undersized the rigging. Based on my sailing plans he suggested we increase the wire and components one size. I base my decisions on my planned usage and condition of rig more than on a number of years. The reactive answer to your question is a probable Yes it is time. The resulting knowledge of “The Rigging” was new in 2021, is peace of mind and will serve a little should you decide to sell at a future date. Also there is a sense of confidence when that thunderstorm approachs that the rigging is new and solid. It should be one less worry about will we weather the storm. Now those 20 year old sails might be the next issue. Good luck.  

Project_Mayhem said: Overall condition is good with some kinks here and there. Click to expand

Project_Mayhem said: ...I've read that the inner stays rarely snap. Does that mean that replacement time for those is longer? Click to expand

ontherocks83

On our old boat we had the Port Aft lower shroud fail while sailing. The mast stayed up, but it sounded like a gun shot and was scary as hell. On our new boat the PO could not remember when or provide receipts to how old the standing rigging was. When applying for insurance they either wanted proof that the rigging was under 10 years old or to have a rigger inspect it and report its condition. I ended up just replacing all of the standing rigging through rigginonly.com in Fairhaven Ma. They were awesome to deal with and the price was very reasonable. To be honest I feel much more comfortable knowing the age and condition of the rigging especially when the wind picks up. And realistically all of the rigging on a 25' boat should not be expensive at all.  

ontherocks83 said: I ended up just replacing all of the standing rigging through rigginonly.com in Fairhaven Ma Click to expand

dlochner said: For Rigging Only . If you don't live nearby, call them and then send them the old rigging, they will duplicate it. Good service, good quality, nice people. Click to expand

I think another factor to consider is how much of the "life time" of the rigging was spent with the boat in the water and the mast up. A boat in the water is in constant motion and the rigging experiences constant micro shock loads even when sitting in the slip. A boat spending most of the last 10 years on a trailer with the mast in a cradle has only corrosion to consider. It will always be a judgment call. You can't eliminate all risk on a sailboat and how to make that call will be different bassed on an individual's risk tollerance.  

Don't forget that this site will also replace your rigging. Just a FYI. dj  

Step 1 - Hire a professional rigger with a good reputation to do a thorough survey of your standing AND running rigging. Let them know any of your concerns before they get started. Step 2 - Evaluate their recommendations and decide for yourself. I just had a full rigging inspection done and the evaluation split the recommendations into: - "Good" (inspected and no action required) - "Watch" (no immediate action required but inspect regularly and plan to replace in the near future). In one case my VHF antenna's protective cover had UV degraded to the point of compromise and at some point the rigger felt the freezing and thawing of moisture entering the antenna would cause it to fail. I opted to replace now. - "Action now" (potential for failure soon). One example here was my mainsail halyard whose splice had UV degraded to the point the strength was compromised. I opted to replace now. Two other side benefits - if I have a rig failure I have a half leg to stand on with insurance that I did my best to maintain my rigging, having had a recent full inspection by a rigging company and rectified all known problems. Also, piece of mind that I'm not ASSUMING my rig is fine, but I have photographic evidence and expert advice of that (they took 141 photos during the inspection). I bought the 2009 boat in 2018 with no record of any rigging inspection or maintenance, so I figured the time was right at 11 years in salt water for a beefy B&R rig. They also discovered during the inspection that all my bolts on my radar were backing out - some nearly ready to fall to the deck (they fixed on the spot) and found my radar wire seal had popped out of the mast (fixed that on the spot). Worth EVERY BIT of the $150 I spent on it.  

I would think at the first notice of a few broken strands in more than two of the wires. When the rig is tuned the wires are stretched. Before re-tuning the rig the mast base, turnbuckles and stay fixtures should be inspect. A boat with sound supports should not require re-tuning in less than 5 years. Any requirement to re-tune the rig more often than that would point to wires been stretched beyond their tensile strength minimums. The most important determinant would be the boat's use; a boat used for racing or offshore cruising would require the wires to be inspected and replace more often. Boats used for coastal cruising, week ending or day sailing may go longer. I personally take stock of a pleasure boat's components and their age and will not load an older boat's rigging as much as I would a newer one. I have broken more than my share of components in newer boats while a lot less in older boats. I agree with a general average of 20 years for replacing the standing rigging.  

This is some excellent information! I'm on Lake Michigan. I push the boat hard whenever conditions allow and am always a bit leery of its old rigging. I'll pull the standing rigging and as much hardware as reasonably possible (tangs, bolts, pins, turnbuckles, etc) and drop it off to a local rigger. I found some tests that some SBO folks had done many years ago on the O'Day 25's standing rigging. Their solidworks simulations revealed the rigging was on the lighter side. I'll also inquire about upgrading to one size up.  

Benny17441 said: I would think at the first notice of a few broken strands in more than two of the wires. Click to expand

Timm R Oday25

When we brought our Oday 25 home ,I knew judging from the lack of care the previous owner shown the rigging might also be suspect. Every spring I replaced a set of shrouds . It was about $200 each spring. If there is a kink from a shroud or a stay ,it usually happens from stepping the mast .I've learned to not be in a hurry .  

I'll agree that most of the kinks were created during stepping or prepping for storage  

The reason it is a scheduled item is that a visual inspection prolly won't detect defects. Maybe dying or some other high tech test would. But you can't really detect corrosion down into the swage. I recently sailed on a boat that had rust around the wire/swage on all the shrouds. I think the owner needs to replace those but there's a Covid problem. The good news is that after a spirited sail, which was pretty physical, my hip didn't hurt. Every other muscle did but the hip was fine and I think I'm good to go.  

David in Sandusky

It sounds to me that the question is when, not if you will go for new rigging. When I thought about it this way, it seemed easy to give ourselves 20 years of confidence for our Lake Erie boat, rather than take the risk of waiting. We are cruisers who sail around 500 nm per year, and are able to avoid frequent encounters with heavy weather by laying over if storms are in the offing.  

David in Sandusky said: It sounds to me that the question is when, not if you will go for new rigging. Click to expand

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Replacing Your Standing Rigging

Published by rigworks on november 27, 2018.

Question – When should I replace my standing rigging?

From the Rigger – According to industry standards, the anticipated lifespan for stainless steel rigging is 10-12 years for wire and 15-20 years for rod. Of course, a number of factors affect a rig’s lifespan including load, sailing conditions, mileage sailed, age, fatigue from cyclic loading, environmental influences such as salinity and contamination, and frequency of care and maintenance. Many people believe that only heavily used rigging needs to be replaced, but the continuous flexing of loose wire that is not under load can take a serious toll as well. The flogging of a loose shroud can actually be harder on wire than steady pressure.

Unfortunately, there are not always visual clues that your rigging has passed its life expectancy. Things to look for include corrosion, pitting, cracks, and broken strands or “meat hooks” on the wire. Rust and discoloration can indicate the location of a crack or crystallization of the metal. Check your spreaders, chainplates and turnbuckles for cracking, fatigue, missing cotter pins/rings, etc. Check the deck around the chainplates and mast for cracking and delamination. If in doubt, get a professional opinion.

The cost to replace standing rigging obviously varies from boat to boat. Give us a call, and we can give you a rough quote. With proper measurements (wire diameter, pin sizes, wire lengths), we can give you a very accurate price for the standing rigging itself, but there are often unforeseen complications during the job (bad spreaders, corroded mast bases, hardware that is stripped on the mast, frozen pins, chainplates that are failing, etc.). A rig inspection beforehand can minimize surprises.  And word of warning… jobs often get expensive because the customer decides, once the mast is down, to add furlers, masthead units, new sheets and halyards, etc. These additions add up quickly and affect the cost of parts, labor, special order shipping, taxes, etc. We are happy to accommodate your requests, but the cost of your job will escalate quickly.

Although we work closely with the boatyard during the job, you will need to negotiate yard fees (crane, mast lay days, etc.) directly with the yard of your choice. They are not included in our estimate. Driscoll Boat Works and Shelter Island Boat Yard are both within walking distance of Rigworks. Assuming it fits in our racks and we have room, we may be able to avoid mast lay day charges by storing your mast here at Rigworks.

As a quick side note… people often ask if they should switch from rod to wire rigging or vice versa during the re-rig (usually from rod to wire as rod is much more expensive per foot). Be aware that this is not a simple conversion and can be quite expensive. The terminations for wire vs. rod can be quite different and require a lot of customization.

Want to prolong the lifespan of your rigging? Here are a few suggestions…

Maintain your standing rigging! Like your car, your sailboat needs TLC. Perform routine cleaning/polishing to remove corrosives, identify chafe points and other damage, and properly tune your standing rigging (shrouds, forestay, backstay). Stainless does not like to be deprived of oxygen, so keep tape off your rigging to avoid anaerobic corrosion. For more information on rig maintenance, visit our prior ‘Ask the Rigger’ article at https://rigworks.com/maintaining-your-standing-rigging/ and download our rig-care pamphlet at https://rigworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Standing-Rigging-Care.pdf .

Get regular rig inspections! This is a very inexpensive investment (by yachting standards ) to ensure that your rig is in sound condition. Why not schedule annual service as you would with a car? Let us go over your rig from top to bottom and end to end to identify trouble before it gets worse. For more information on rig inspections, visit our prior ‘Ask the Rigger’ article at https://rigworks.com/the-scoop-on-rig-inspections/ . Our riggers can also tune your rig, either at the dock or under sail. Not only will your rig last longer when properly tuned, your boat will sail better, and who doesn’t love that!

Consider pulling your rig every 5-6 years to inspect the mast base, chainplates, turnbuckles, wire, etc. This is considerably less expensive than a full re-rig and, again, may identify issues before they become catastrophic.

And PLEASE do not buy a used boat without a professional rig inspection! We have had many customers who have found a ‘great deal’ on a used boat only to discover that they need to spend a small fortune on new rigging. A boat with bad rigging is at best a pain in the #@$ and at worst a lethal weapon. There is nothing more expensive than a “cheap” boat!

A customer came into our shop the other day to discuss his 33-year old rigging. He said it looked fine. He asked “Isn’t the industry standard just a ploy by manufacturers to sell more wire”. Since we also stand to gain when you replace your rigging, let us say that many insurance companies will not insure sailboats with aged rigging. This should be a warning. If they are not willing to take the financial risk, are you willing to risk yourself and your crew?

Finally, should you decide to sail with that old rigging, consider checking out the ‘Ask the Rigger’ article titled “Rigs Fail… Are You Ready?” at https://rigworks.com/rigs-fail-ready/ .

Safe Sailing!

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Replacing Your Sailboat Rigging

• By Wendy Mitman Clarke
• Updated: March 23, 2020

Whether you’re buying a used sailboat that’s new to you or you’ve owned your boat for decades, the standing rigging is what keeps the mast in place, and thus requires particular attention. How do you know when it’s time to re-rig? There are some obvious answers to this one — for instance, if your wire rigging has broken strands or if it’s suffering from “candy-striping,” i.e., rust-colored streaks swirling down the wire. The latter may indicate two things: one, that it’s simply surface rust, which you should be able to polish off, or two, that as the wire was being manufactured, a strand might have picked up some contamination during the process and is compromised, which is cause for concern. A third visual indicator are cracks in swaged fittings, some of the most common end fittings for wire. Cracks are hard to see (use a magnifying glass), and sometimes marks that look like cracks can be left by the machine used to create the swage. Then there’s just age, and this factor as a reason to re-rig is more subject to a boat’s history than anything else.

“There’s a rule of thumb, but it varies rigger to rigger,” says Steve Madden, co-owner of M Yacht Services in Annapolis and the head of its M Rigging division. “My belief is that you should be replacing your sailboat’s standing rigging every 10 to 15 years.” But this time frame also is variable, depending on the boat’s purpose and use. For instance, for an offshore bluewater boat, Madden recommends 10 years, and for a serious coastal cruiser, more like 12.

“The biggest thing we like to have is the history of the boat: what kind of boat it is, how it’s been sailed and where has it been sailed,” says Jay Herman, owner of Annapolis Rigging. “That history will affect what kind of life you get out of your standing rigging.” Some insurance companies, he says, will require a re-rig if you’re purchasing a used boat that has standing rigging older than 15 years.

Either way, Jimmie Cockerill, co-owner of the Rigging Company in Annapolis, recommends that for a sailboat with wire rigging, the mast should be pulled and all fittings and wire visually inspected every five to six years. And although rod rigging may be able to last longer than wire, it too needs to be serviced every five to six years to get the most life out of it. Sticking to the 10-year rule, Madden says, means that for the most part, any corrosion or failure points will be eliminated with a re-rig.

How the rigging has been tuned is also part of a boat’s story. For instance, Madden says, he recently had a customer whose 46-foot cutter had a rigging failure at six years. The customer had had the boat re-rigged, and during a trip to the BVI, the new wire stretched. The owner didn’t adjust the rigging to compensate for the stretch for several seasons. “That was a case of not knowing that the worst thing you can do to standing rigging is have it loose on the leeward side,” he says. “Sailboat rigging very rarely fails from being overloaded. There’s such a safety margin in rigging. So you’re sailing offshore and you’re looking at the windward shroud that’s taut, and that’s not the one to worry about. It’s when the leeward side starts flopping around that you’re asking for trouble.”

Stainless steel has a finite number of cycles — essentially, movements, whether fore and aft or side to side. “The theory is that it can take 10 to 15 years of cycling, but this continual motion when it’s unloaded is what fatigues the wire,” Madden says. “There’s no real way of measuring that. Die testing won’t pick it up, and it’s rare that a wire will give you warning before breaking.”

So how often should standing rigging be replaced? For all of these reasons, most riggers agree that when your sailboat’s standing rigging approaches 15 years old, it’s a good time to consider replacing it.

Wire or Rod Sailboat Rigging?

Riggers say the question of whether to rig with wire or rod is usually fairly easily answered: Run what you brung. In other words, if your boat already has rod rigging, with all of the end fittings to terminate the rods both on deck and in or on the mast, then sticking with rod will ultimately be less expensive than making the switch to wire. Likewise, if you already have wire with fittings that accommodate your boat and mast, stick with wire. Aside from the relative cost differences between rod and wire (rod is more expensive), what also makes a switch pricey is having to significantly modify the mast to accept the different rigging.

Although rod rigging is more common on racing boats, many well-known cruising-boat builders, such as Valiant, Bristol, J/Boats and Hinckley, have rod-rigged models. The benefits of rod are less stretch, less weight, less windage, and arguably longer life than wire, because there’s less possibility for corrosion of the rod itself.

That said, some sailors prefer wire over rod for a number of reasons. First, it’s easier to fix in remote places and on your own. With a spare mechanical end fitting, wire and the proper tools, you can replace a stay pretty much anywhere. Similarly, it’s easier to find usable replacement parts far from busy ports. Wire rigging is generally less expensive and easier to handle. Finally, rod rigging requires a particular type of terminus — called a cold head — that can be fabricated only with a purpose-built machine, which only a rigging shop will have. You cannot use a mechanical fitting on rod rigging.

In the past, long-distance cruisers typically chose wire rigging with mechanical fittings for all of these reasons. They also would carry a piece of wire as long as the longest stay on the boat — coiled and stowed, which undeniably was sometimes easier said than done — as well as spare end fittings and the tools needed to replace a broken shroud or stay. Today, with the advent of super-strong synthetic line such as AmSteel and Dyneema, the need for that extra wire and gear is eliminated. For instance, the Rigging Company makes a spare-stay kit that can accommodate either wire or rod rigging repairs, Cockerill says. It has a synthetic stay with an eye splice, a toolless turnbuckle (the Handy Lock, made by C. Sherman Johnson), quick-release fast pins with an attached lanyard, several high-strength Dyneema loops, and even a heavy-duty zip tie to fish loops in and out of holes in a mast.

“The idea is you come on deck with this small canvas bag and make it happen,” Cockerill says. “Let’s say you ripped a tang out of the mast; you can use a Dyneema loop to create another attachment point. A smaller loop is a makeshift chainplate attachment — you can attach it to a neighboring chainplate and attach the stay to it. It’s good enough to get you to safety and someplace you can make a more permanent repair.” Riggers say very few sailors re-rig from wire to rod or the reverse, but if switching is on your mind, have a professional make a full assessment first.

There are so many variables in the system — types of end fittings, types of masts, types of attachment points — that each boat will have its own specific requirements that can affect cost. For that reason, it’s difficult to give an accurate estimate of the cost of making the switch, even for an average 40-footer.

End Fittings for Sailboat Rigging

All standing rigging, whether rod or wire, has to end in a fitting that attaches to the deck and mast. The three most commonly used types of attachments are swaged and mechanical fittings for wire, and cold heads for rod. Generally, end fittings fall into a few classes: studs, eyes, forks and hooks, each of which comes in a dizzying array of sizes and configurations. There are multiple combinations and variations: For instance, if your mast has double tangs, most likely the end fitting will be an eye — although it can be a marine eye or an aircraft eye, which differ primarily in shape. All rod rigging terminates in a cold head, which accommodates the end fitting or is encapsulated by the end fitting. This could be a marine eye, a marine fork, a T-head or a J-hook, among others.

A swaged fitting is a terminus that’s attached using a machine called a swager. It rolls the end fitting through two opposing dies and compresses the fitting on the wire so tightly that it can’t pull out. “The theory is that you’ve crushed it so tightly that all the wires inside have just merged into one solid piece of stainless,” Madden says. Swaging must be professionally done, and the result is extremely strong and generally has a long life. Top manufacturers of swaged fittings are Hayn Marine Rigging Products, Alexander Roberts and C. Sherman Johnson.

Mechanical fittings can be applied using a few common hand tools by the mechanically handy DIY sailor, which is one reason they’re popular. The two primary manufacturers of mechanical fittings presently are Sta-Lok and Petersen Stainless, which produces Hi-MOD. Both are located in the U.K., and the products are distributed in the U.S. through vendors like Hayn, West Marine, Defender, and local chandleries and riggers. Generally, they consist of either three or four parts (Sta-Lok has three; Hi-MOD has four), including a sleeve; a cone; in Hi-MOD’s case, a crown wheel; and the terminal (an eye, fork, stud, etc.). If you follow directions, they are fairly straightforward to install, although not especially easy. “The mechanical fasteners are great in that you can terminate and then look inside to be sure it’s formed correctly, so you do have a way of inspecting your work,” Madden says.

However, they generally cost more than a swaged fitting; Herman says while Hi-MOD’s newer mechanical fittings are “definitely more user-friendly to assemble, they’re twice the cost of a swaged fitting.” Some riggers will recommend swaged fittings for the mast end of the rigging and mechanical fittings at the deck level: Corrosion is less prevalent at the top of the mast, and you can more easily and regularly inspect mechanical fittings at deck level, where they’re frequently subjected to salt water

Should You Replace Your Sailboat’s Rigging Yourself?

So you’ve determined your sailboat’s standing rigging needs work. Do you hire a pro or go it alone? Good question. Yes, doing it yourself will theoretically save money. For an average 40-foot boat, Cockerill estimates about $100 per foot to re-rig with wire rigging ($4,000), as well as the round-trip cost to haul and launch the boat and unstep and step the rig (an additional $2,500 or so). By taking on the labor yourself, you’ll probably save as much as $2,000 on the re-rigging cost, he says. Madden says that cost isn’t linear, though; as you go up in size (a bigger boat needs heavier wire and larger fittings), you’ll spend more. He’d estimate more like $4,600 for a 40-foot boat, but all of these numbers depend on how much is involved: Are there furlers? What kind of end fittings? Are the chainplates sound? Depending on the answers to those questions and others, a professionally done re-rig for a 40-footer could be closer to $6,000 or more.

If you go DIY, you will be limited to mechanical end fittings unless you hire a rigger to swage your end fittings. The Rigging Company gears much of its sales to DIY sailors and is beginning an e-commerce site to cater specifically to handy individuals. But Cockerill says it quickly becomes evident whether an owner feels comfortable enough to do the work. “You should be mechanically inclined,” he says, “and the way to find that out is if I start talking all this technical jargon and you decide whether you’re suited to handle that at all.”

Additionally, a DIY sailor needs to do plenty of research, particularly when it comes to wire quality, which is something professional sailboat rigging companies watch like hawks. Although anyone can walk into a local chandlery and buy wire, that doesn’t mean the wire is of the highest quality. Marine-suitable stainless wire is called 316 grade, but even that doesn’t mean you’re necessarily getting high-quality wire. Much depends on where it is manufactured; Herman and other riggers say the best wire today is coming from South Korea through a manufacturer called KOS, making wire to military specifications. It’s imported and sold through distributors like Alps Wire Rope.

“We only sell guaranteed-content, guaranteed-process wire,” Herman says. “There are other wires out there that are cheaper, but they’re not guaranteed.”

As for sources of wire and fittings, there are many, including major chandleries and vendors, like West Marine and Defender, as well as some private riggers, like Annapolis Rigging and the Rigging Company, which will work with you to define what you need and help you source parts and materials.

One thing all the riggers I spoke with expressed emphatically was that stainless steel needs oxygen to create a fine film of oxidation that protects the metal. The fastest route to crevice corrosion is to cover the metal with plastic or leather turnbuckle covers or to coat the fittings in tape. Enough tape to cover a cotter pin suffices; otherwise, leave the metal open to the air. Likewise, if you are re-rigging your sailboatboat, use the opportunity to check your chainplates (easily the subject of another article entirely), since that’s one of the most common points of rigging failure.

Another factor in your DIY decision-making process is simple: peace of mind. “Most of my clients say to me without any prompting, ‘This is one area I feel should be done by a professional,’’’ Madden says. “You’re out there offshore and there’s a squall coming and you start worrying about the craziest of things, and you don’t want to have any unknowns.” That’s especially true of the system that keeps the mast and sails up.

Wendy Mitman Clarke is currently between passages. She’s the director of media relations at Washington College in Chestertown, Maryland, and she and her family continue to pine and plan for the day they can return to the cruising life.

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Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance, replacing your standing rigging - a step by step guide.

Replacing the standing rigging on a sailing yacht, a complete re-rig, in other words, may seem daunting. Still, there is a procedure to follow that can make it a relatively straightforward process for anyone who is reasonably practical.

The first decision is whether to tackle the job with the mast up or down

If you have enough time, together with the availability of a mast lift, then mast down is by far the easier option. The whole project will be more straightforward with the mast horizontal, chocked up on firm ground and accessible for inspection and work. You may even choose to do the upper mast inspection after lowering the mast to save going aloft in a bosun's chair. You can purchase each wire with swaged terminals, finished and ready to fit at both ends. You can order yourself online or with help from the Jimmy Green Rigging Team.

You can take confidence from the fact that there is a good deal of adjustment on the rigging screws to allow for minor measurement errors. It is worth noting that Team Jimmy Green set the turnbuckles at 2/3 open unless otherwise requested and undertake to produce the finished wires accurately to within plus or minus the diameter of the wire.

If the mast has to remain stepped, you need a slightly different approach, generally involving the purchase of each wire over-long with the top terminal swaged. The bottom end will need to be finished in situ by cutting to the exact length and fitting a DIY self-fit swageless (mechanical) terminal. Modern swageless terminals from Sta-Lok, Bluewave or Petersen are reasonably simple to fit so that you can be confident of success.

If you can take down each stay individually and temporarily to measure it accurately, you can order the replacements with swaged fittings at both ends. Each wire should be pulled out taut with some tension to ensure an accurate measurement. It won't be easy to measure a stay accurately while it is still in situ.

Please note that the information in yacht manuals should not be regarded as reliably accurate enough to make up a set of finished rigging.

Rigging Checklist

Rig tune and tension check on existing rigging.

• Consider any design or specification alterations
• Close inspection of all components, including measuring diameters

Take photos

Mark all tension settings, determine any possible improvements.

• Order process for mast unstepped
• Order process for mast remaining stepped

Each step is explained more fully below:

Begin by checking that your current rigging is set up and tuned correctly. This need not be as technical as it sounds - you need to be sure that you will copy a rig that works well. The essentials are mast rake and bend, athwartship vertical alignment and correct tensioning. You may want to ask for some professional advice. Still, if your current setup performs satisfactorily upwind and downwind on both tacks/gybes, it may be best to avoid interfering with the current settings. The aim of the game is to replicate the old rig with a new one within parameters that allow for adjustment and tuning.

Look for extra unnecessary shackles or toggles which may have been added to compensate for the wire being too short, and determine whether they can be omitted from the new rig.

Consider any design or specification alterations.

The next step is to survey all aspects of the rigging, including an assessment of whether the existing is the right design and specification for your anticipated purposes, e.g. Coastal, Offshore or Ocean Cruising, occasional or hard core racing.

Close inspection of all components

Carry out a thorough rigging inspection, including all the wire, terminals and clevis pins. Establish the size of every component and make notes. A good quality pair of callipers is an invaluable investment for producing accurate results.

Once you have confirmed the wire diameter, the approximate length and identified the terminals, top and bottom, it is a simple online exercise to get an accurate estimate of the replacement cost on Standing Rigging . Alternatively, Team Jimmy Green can produce a costing based on the same information.

Take photos of everything, including zoomed-in details of anything you are unsure about and any others that will serve as a reminder when fitting the new shrouds and stays.

Check for any signs of wear or structural damage and identify the probable cause.

Problems can occur for many reasons:

• Misalignment leading to stress at an odd angle
• T terminals that are not seated properly in their mast plate
• T terminals that don't quite match their mast plate
• Fittings that allow unnecessary movement
• Lack of articulation due to missing toggles
• Undersized clevis pins or oversized clevis pin holes

Some of these may be the reason you are replacing the rig, so avoid repeating the issue on the new setup.

Standard pin and hole diameters correspond with the thread size of the studs in the turnbuckles. Each wire diameter has a varied choice of stud/turnbuckle sizes. Components on either side of the standard sizing are denoted as Down Size and Up Size by Petersen Stainless Rigging. Threads are generally UNF or possibly the Metric equivalent. The table below sets out all the relevant sizes for standard, Down Size and Up Size components. If your rigging has unique non-standard characteristics, the Jimmy Green Rigging Team can source bespoke replacements or suggest suitable alternatives.

This chart is a guide only. Please check all dimensions before ordering your rigging.

Please note all the turnbuckle settings before disconnecting any shrouds or stays by marking them with tape or taking photos. It would be best if you loosened all the turnbuckles to disconnect them at deck level.

Remember to return them to their noted settings before measuring. The new rigging can be made to the required length with the optimum adjustment, normally 2/3 open.

One last check to ensure that there isn’t a change of fitting or a tweak in the setup that will make the new rig an improvement on the old one.

Order Process for Mast-Unstepped.

Dependent on the time factor, there are two main options to consider:

Determine the terminals required, measure the wires, make any adjustments, place your order online, or email your requirements for Team Jimmy Green to load the order for you.

N.B. The old wires should be removed from the mast and pulled out taut with a degree of tension to ensure they are straight in readiness for measuring.

Measurements are from  bearing edge to bearing edge of the pins or eyes.

Please refer to our Standing Rigging Custom Build Instructions  for T terminals and studs.

Label the individual stays. You may need them as an aide memoir when you come to fit the new standing rigging.

Check and double-check your measurements and terminal fittings before ordering. Remember the old adage: “Measure twice, cut once”.

Remove the old stays, labelling them carefully and noting any amendments required to length or fittings.

Coil the wires as neatly as possible.

Send them or bring them to Jimmy Green Marine for assessment and a quote.

This option puts the onus on the Jimmy Green Rigging Team to replicate your rigging accurately.

Order Process for mast remaining stepped.

Establish the length of the existing shrouds and stays.

Please look at our Standing Rigging Custom Build Instructions 

Order new wires with the required top terminals swaged on and the wire length appropriately over length for cutting and fitting in situ.

Order DIY swageless terminals for the bottom end.

The wire should be long enough to be cut and fitted with the new swageless terminal to finish at the desired length.

N.B. Replacing the forestay will be tricky if it is fitted with a headsail furler, and you may need professional help.

Take down each shroud individually. N.B. take precautions to stay the mast with a temporary line.

Measure the length accurately and replace it on the mast.

Repeat the process for each shroud or stay.

Measurements are from  BEARING EDGE TO BEARING EDGE  of the pins or eyes.

For T terminals and studs, refer to our  STANDING RIGGING CUSTOM BUILD INSTRUCTIONS .

Jimmy Green Advisory - Check your Order Details Carefully

You must check your order confirmation for any discrepancies, especially for complex orders.

Please pay special attention to orders uploaded to our website for you, e.g. those originating from telephone or email enquiries or Team Jimmy Green pattern measurement.

This will highlight any misunderstanding before the work is commenced.

There is a wealth of information available to help you to a successful conclusion on our website:

Standing Rigging Assistance Shop for Standing Rigging

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How Often Should Standing Rigging Be Replaced? (Minimally)

Standing rigging is the network of wires or rods that support the mast and keep it upright. Over time, it can become worn, corroded, or damaged, compromising your boat's and crew's safety. So, how often should you replace your standing rigging?

Manufacturers recommend replacing standing rigging every 10–15 years, while others recommend a replacement interval of 15–20 years. However, the actual lifespan of your rigging will depend on a variety of factors, including how often you sail, the conditions you sail in, and how well you maintain your rigging.

If you notice that your rigging is showing signs of wear and tear, such as corrosion or rust, it may be time to replace it. Let's see what other signs of wear you need to watch out for.

• If your rigging is made up of synthetic fibers like Dyneema, its average lifespan can be as long as 5–10 years before you replace it.
• If you have carbon fiber rigging, it is known to last for many years, but it can be more expensive than other materials.
• The Royal Yachting Association (RYA) suggests that wire rigging must be replaced every 8–10 years.
• Replace rigging when you see corrosion and rust, cracks and broken strands, loose or damaged fittings, and stretching or deformation.
• Saltwater is corrosive to stainless steel, so rinse your rigging with fresh water after every sail to extend its lifespan.

On this page:

Recommended replacement intervals for standing rigging, when to replace your rigging, recognizing the signs of wear, tips to extend the lifespan of standing rigging.

Here are some general guidelines that can help you determine when it's time to replace your standing rigging:

Time interval to replace standing rigging based on manufacturer's recommendation

Some manufacturers recommend replacing wire rigging every 10 years, while others recommend a replacement interval of 15 years. They also recommend performing a visual inspection of the rigging every year and a professional inspection every 5 years.

This recommendation is based on a number of factors, such as the exposure of the standing rigging to a wide range of environmental conditions like saltwater, UV radiation, and extreme temperatures.

Also, the materials used in standing rigging, such as stainless steel wire or synthetic fibers, can also degrade over time due to stress, fatigue, and corrosion. This can cause the rigging to lose its strength and become more susceptible to failure.

It's always a good idea to consult the manufacturer's recommendations and seek the advice of a professional rigger or sailboat technician if you have any questions or concerns about the condition of your standing rigging.

Time interval to replace standing rigging based on industry standards

The American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) recommends that wire rigging be replaced every 10 years. Other industry standards may recommend different replacement intervals depending on the type of rigging and the specific conditions in which the rigging is used.

For example, rigging that is exposed to harsh weather conditions or saltwater may need to be replaced more frequently than rigging that is used in more moderate conditions. Other recommendations from different associations are as follows:

• The International Sailing Federation (ISAF) recommends that rod rigging be replaced every 5 years.
• The Royal Yachting Association (RYA) recommends that wire rigging be replaced every 8-10 years and that synthetic rigging be replaced every 5 years.
• The Germanischer Lloyd classification society recommends that wire rigging be replaced every 8-10 years and that synthetic rigging be replaced every 5-7 years.

Time interval to replace standing rigging based on expert's opinions

In addition to manufacturer recommendations and industry standards, there are also experts who can provide guidance on when to replace standing rigging, and they usually recommend replacing standing rigging every 10-15 years, while others recommend a replacement interval of 15-20 years.

A sailor who frequently sails in rough seas or high winds may need to replace their standing rigging more frequently than someone who sails in calmer waters.

Carbon fiber rigging is known for its strength and durability, and it can last for many years with proper care and maintenance. However, it can be more expensive than other materials, and it may require more specialized knowledge and equipment to inspect and replace.

Synthetic fibers like Dyneema and Spectra are also lightweight and strong, but they may require more frequent inspection and replacement than other materials. This is because they can be more susceptible to damage from UV exposure, chafing, and other factors.

Replace standing rigging based on real-world examples

Real-world examples can also provide insight into when standing rigging should be replaced. For example, if you notice that your rigging is showing signs of wear and tear, such as corrosion or fraying, it may be time to replace it.

Similarly, if you've been sailing in harsh conditions or have put a lot of wear and tear on your rigging, it may need to be replaced sooner than the manufacturer's recommended interval.

As a responsible sailor, you should always keep an eye on the condition of your standing rigging to ensure that it is safe and reliable. Here are two key factors to consider when determining when to replace your rigging:

Consider the lifespan of rigging

According to industry standards, the lifespan of stainless steel rigging is generally between 15-20 years for wire and 20-30 years for rod. Below are the average lifespan of different rigging materials:

If you are unsure about the condition of your rigging or its age, you can have a professional rigger inspect it for you. They will be able to identify any issues and recommend a course of action.

Consider replacing rigging after heavy weather

When your boat is subjected to strong winds and rough seas, the rigging is put under a lot of stress. This stress can cause microscopic cracks to form in the metal, weakening the rigging over time.

If you have recently sailed in heavy weather, look for any visible cracks or signs of corrosion, and pay particular attention to the areas where the rigging attaches to the mast and deck . If you notice any issues, it's best to have them addressed by a professional rigger as soon as possible to avoid rigging failure.

Here are some signs of wear to look out for which signals that you have to replace your rigging:

Replace rigging when you see corrosion and rust

Corrosion and rust are common issues that can weaken your rigging. Check for discoloration, pitting, or flaking of the metal. If you notice any of these signs, it's time to replace your rigging.

Replace rigging when you see cracks and broken strands

Inspect your rigging for any cracks or broken strands. These can be caused by age, corrosion, or overloading. If you see any signs of damage, immediately replace your rigging before it fails.

Check the overall hardware condition

Check the condition of all hardware, including turnbuckles, clevis pins, and tangs. Look for any signs of wear, such as elongation or deformation. If your hardware is damaged, it can cause your rigging to fail, so try to replace it as soon as possible.

Check for loose or damaged fittings

Check for loose or damaged fittings, such as cotter pins or split rings. If a fitting is loose or damaged, it can cause the rigging to shift or move in ways that it was not designed to, leading to additional stress on other components.

This can cause fatigue and wear on the rigging, which can eventually lead to failure. Additionally, a loose or damaged fitting can allow moisture and salt to enter and corrode the rigging, further weakening the system.

Check for stretchings or deformation

Over time, rigging can stretch or deform, which can weaken it. Check for any signs of stretching or deformation, such as sagging or kinking.

Although rigging is designed to have a certain amount of stretch under load, excessive stretching or deformation can indicate that the rigging has reached the end of its useful life and needs to be replaced. This can occur due to overloading, fatigue, or wear and tear. Additionally, stretching or deformation can cause the rigging to lose its shape and alignment, which can affect its performance and reliability.

Below are some important factors that can help in extending the lifespan of your standing rigging:

Proper maintenance and inspection techniques

Regular maintenance and inspection of your standing rigging can help prevent premature failure. Here are some tips:

• Check your rigging regularly for any signs of wear or damage, such as broken strands, rust, or corrosion.
• Keep your rigging clean and free of debris, which can cause abrasion and wear.
• Lubricate your rigging periodically to help prevent corrosion and ensure smooth operation.
• Tighten and adjust your rigging as needed to maintain proper tension and alignment.

Protective coatings and treatments

Protective coatings and treatments can help extend the lifespan of your standing rigging by preventing corrosion and other forms of damage. Here are some options:

• Apply a protective coating, such as marine-grade paint or epoxy, to your rigging to help prevent corrosion.
• Use anti-corrosion treatments, such as zinc or sacrificial anodes, to help protect your rigging from galvanic corrosion .
• Install UV-resistant covers or sleeves on your rigging to help protect it from sun damage.

Upgrades and replacements of individual components

Here are some options when deciding to upgrade or replace individual components of your standing rigging:

• Replace worn or damaged components, such as turnbuckles, clevis pins, or tangs, with high-quality, marine-grade replacements.
• Upgrade to stronger or more durable components, such as Dyform or Nitronic rigging, to improve your rigging's performance and lifespan.
• Install new hardware, such as roller furling systems or lazy jacks, to reduce wear and tear on your rigging.

Practice routine cleaning

Saltwater can be corrosive to stainless steel, so you might need to rinse your rigging with fresh water after every sail. You can use a hose or a bucket to rinse the rigging and fittings, paying special attention to areas where salt spray may have accumulated. You can also use a soft-bristled brush to scrub away any stubborn salt deposits.

Choose the right rigging for your needs

Choosing the right rigging or your needs ensure its longevity. Here are some factors to consider:

• The type of sailing you do, such as racing or cruising, will affect the type of rigging you need.
• The size and weight of your boat will also affect the type of rigging you need.
• The material and construction of your rigging, such as wire or rod, will affect its performance and lifespan.
• The quality of your rigging, including the manufacturer and materials used, will affect its durability and lifespan.

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Quick and Safe Sail Cleaning

Oxi-clean and dirt cheap diy formula match specialty cleaners. we also learned uv rays during drying time will also help things along..

It can be a rust stain caused by a loop of chain that spent the winter lying on a sail. Perhaps a bird crawled under the sail cover and built a nest, pooping on the sail for weeks. Either way, cleaning a laminated sail presents a particularly vexing problems, since mildew likes the adhesive that bonds the material, resulting in a stain that is sealed between waterproof layers. Some of these just look bad (rust stains), but others can slowly weaken a sail (mildew in the laminate adhesive). But in all cases, overly aggressive cleaning can make things even worse, weakening the sail more than the mildew ever would.

Stains can be removed in three general ways. They can be physically removed, dissolved, or bleached (made invisible). Each requires different chemistry and a different mindset, so it helps to understand the stain.

Photos by Drew Frye

Most stains are linked to moisture. Good ventilation prevents condensation, so consider taking sails home for the off-season. Canvas should be treated with water repellent (see PS February 2014 online ). This is the single most effective way to combat lichen mildew on both the cover and the sail under it.

THREE WAYS TO REMOVE A STAIN

Physical removal requires that the bond be broken. In the case of mildew and algae, this requires that the organism be killed and for some time to pass. Borax, oxygen bleach (sodium percarbonate or sodium perborate), chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite), and quaternary amines (benzalkonium chloride and others) are all effective if given a soaking period. The required dose is not very high, so more is not better. Sunlight works on mildew, though very similar looking black algae are not killed by UV (unless the mildew truly grew in the dark, consider that it might actually be algae).

Surfactants—including both organic soaps and detergents, and inorganics such as trisodium phosphate (TSP), baking sodas, and borax—help by breaking static bonds and emulsifying grease. Again, soaking time helps, followed by gentle agitation. More effective and less damaging, a little light work with a brush, with the sail laid out on a non-abrasive surface, also works. But remember that stains that are between laminate layers or deep in a seam will not be helped by scrubbing.

Dissolving works best on rust, corrosion, and metals stains. The trick is to reduce the pH far enough to dissolve the metal oxide without damaging the cloth. Nylon is vulnerable to strong acids, literally dissolving before your eyes in battery acid, so nothing with a pH of less than 3 should be used. Polyester and other fabrics are less vulnerable, but we like to keep the pH above 3 because nylon thread can always sneak in.

It is always better to soak for longer rather than to use stronger chemicals, since the cloth is not affected by long soaking times at a safe pH, but the stain will slowly vanish. Some products contain chelating agents (EDTA and its relatives) to help dissolve and suspend metal at less acidic pH. The pH values for common cleaning acids such as hydrochloric acid (sold as muriatic acid), oxalic acid (Ospho), acetic acid (vinegar), and lactic acid (CLR brand) can vary by concentration, so if you are going to use an acid cleaner, you may have to dilute it further. Here are the pH levels of common acids used for cleaning (note that the acid concentrations indicated by percentages can vary by product):

Hydrochloric acid (3% acid), diluted with water 20:1, very low pH

Oxalic acid (100% acid), diluted with water 20:1, pH 2-3

Acetic acid (vinegar, about 4-6% acid), used undiluted or diluted with water 10:1, pH 3.3-2.4

Lactic (CLR brand acid is about 15%), diluted with water 10:1 to 20:1, pH 3.5-3.0

Bleaching is a reaction where the reactive chemical (hypochlorous acid in the case of chlorine bleach, peroxide radical in the case of oxygen bleaches) changes the chemical structure of the stain to where it no longer absorbs light, which is what gives it the color. Often, the contamination remains in place, but you simply can’t see it. In the case of laminate sails, there is little hope or removing mildew from between waterproof layers—anything that could do that would leave the sail in ruins. However, we can kill the mildew and then make the remains disappear, which is just as good. The mildew has stopped eating the sail, and we don’t have to look at the stain. What is required is an active ingredient that can permeate through the thin laminate without damaging the cloth or adhesive. What is the most effective ingredient? Oxygen bleach—like Oxiclean—generates an uncharged radical that can permeate through the film faster than the larger hypochlorous or borate ions. Also, it is less aggressive to the fabric than bleach. While properly diluted bleach (no stronger than laundry recommendations) is safe for polyester, Spectra, and Dyneema, it weakens nylon and should be avoided. Chlorine bleach is Kryptonite to Kevlar and all aramids. In testing, exposure to a 30 percent solution of household bleach for 10 minutes can reduce the strength by 70 percent, destroying the sail. Even worse, residue becomes trapped within the laminate and destroys the Kevlar over time.

Permeation is a slow process. It still takes 15-30 minutes for the active ingredients to reach stains inside laminates, and more time to do their work. Warm water helps. Molecules move faster, reactions are faster, and specific to peroxide-based cleaners, they are more effective the hotter the water is, though most have been formulated with tetraacetylethylenediamine (TTEA), which lower the effective temperature to about 105 F (hot-tub temperature). Increasing concentration makes little difference, so it is always better to substitute time for excess concentration. However, there is a practical limit to time. Like epoxies, oxygen bleaches are reactive and after 3-8 hours they become spent. In fact, the active ingredient in oxygen bleaches is not stable in water and any liquid product that claims to include Oxiclean are slightly misrepresenting the facts; they contain enzymes, but no percarbonate or peroxide compounds. They are not stable once dissolved in water.

A final thing to consider is the effect of any residue. Even after rinsing, both laminates and resinated cloth will retain some of the cleaner. It wicks its way deep inside during the soak, and even a vigorous rinsing cannot remove chemicals from behind waterproof layers. First, never exceed recommended concentration. Second, favor cleaners that leave residue that will serve some positive function; borates and BAC-based algaecides, for example, retard mildew growth. Finally, avoid cleaners that contain biodegradable organic components that may become mildew food. Most liquid laundry detergents have this failing and actually encourage mildew regrowth.

SOAK, SCRUB OR MACHINE?

A machine is always wrong, no matter how gentle. A cycle is surely equivalent to dozens of hours of flogging and is sure to break down the resins, fatigue Kevlar fibers, and separate laminates. Some services use floors scrubbers, not much different from carpet cleaners with the vacuum turned down. They save time, but they can damage glue on sail numbers and tell tales. You can do the same by hand, and may need to for small spots, but should obviously be gentle. Worst of all, the chemical does not have time to work.

Finally, there is soaking. This takes time, but if the chemicals are properly selected and diluted, soaking is harmless to the cloth and effective. First, rinse the sail and examine for wear. Then spot-treat for rust or grease. Then soak in oxygen bleach. This is a required step for mildew and brightening.

Because the simplest way to dry a sail is to hoist it, we suggest not cleaning sails when the boat is in storage, but rather when they can be put back on the boat. Alternatively, you may have a dry place you can drape the sail. Putting a sail away wet is an excellent way to restart the mildew cycle.

A stain is not going to hurt anything. Despite ubiquitous statements to the contrary, we failed to find any concrete evidence that mildew and light staining/dirt damages sailcloth. On the other hand, stories abound of sails ruined by attempts to make them white again. We watched a guy scrub a sail with bleach until it was so weakened he put the scrub brush right through it. So long as you have killed the mildew (oxygen bleach or borax), simply learn to ignore it. Sails are the main engine of the boat, not a fashion accessory.

WHAT WE TESTED

For cleaners, we tested CS-530 from Challenge Sail Cloth, Oxi-Clean Powder, Sail Wash by Wash Safe, Mold and Mildew Cleaner by Iosso, a homemade concoction we call Formula B ( Inside Practical Sailor blog, October 13, 2014 ), and Star Brite Canvas and Sail Cleaner.

HOW WE TESTED

Our mainsail became the unfitting home to several families of birds over the years. Those spots needed cleaning. We also recovered some perfectly nasty Sunbrella from the recycle bin, which provided a nice assortment of mildew and rust stains. Finally, we tested a laminated sail with mildew between the layers. We sectioned off each test material (sail or canvas) and cleaned sections with each material, diluting, scrubbing, and soaking according to the directions.

OBSERVATIONS

Our first big project was cleaning the salon cushions of our 20-year-old catamaran. When they were last cleaned we can’t say, but for the 10 years we’ve had the boat, we’ve had kids running all over, spilled food and sunscreen, put our feet up, and sweated all over them.

We sectioned them off and went at them with a scrub brush and each of the sail cleaners in sequence, scrubbing vigorously but briefly, allowing to soak for two hours, rinsing liberally with a hose, and then extracting the liquid with the upholstery attachment on a carpet cleaner. Troublesome spots were re-treated. In the end they all came equally clean.

Some spots went deep into the foam. As the stain was removed, more would migrate to the surface, requiring repeated spot cleaning over a 36-hour period. This was not difficult, only time consuming.

And yet at this point the covers were not quite bright. But all was not lost. We learned you should quit when the canvas is nearly clean. It seems that the oxygen bleach weakens enough bonds that a half-day in the sun can often finish the job to perfection. They need drying time anyway, and the sun will safely finish your work.

We then tackled a sail that had been a birds nest for a few weeks. We tried Formula B and Star Brite Canvas and Sail Cleaner; both removed the surface dirt, but none appreciably affected the underlying stains. We then attacked the stains with CS-530 and Oxi-Clean, using procedures similar to those described for the cushions.

Winds were very light and on the bow, the sail is full batten and does not flog, so we scrubbed the stains right on the spars, hoisting and lowering as needed for access. In all cases, the stains were greatly reduced within two hours, and then vanished completely after several days exposure to the sun while sailing. Again, the lesson is that UV finishes the job, so quit when you are about 80 percent of the way there.

Finally, we sliced a mildewed section of an old taffeta/Mylar/Kevlar sail into squares and treated them according to the instructions. We did not scrub these, as the material would not stand it, and the results were less than perfect. But they were far better than surfactant cleaners, without the vigorous scrubbing. Again, sunlight helped, and the final result should satisfy.

PRODUCT SUMMARIES BY TYPE

Some of the products contain percarbonate, and by releasing hydrogen peroxide, remove stains chemically. These also contain surfactants. Others contain surfactants only.

Percarbonate-Based

We were impressed by all of these but could not determine real differences in performance between them. All are powders and all require 2-8 hours to work. CS-530 Mold and Mildew Cleaner, Sail Wash, and Iosso Mold and Mildew Cleaner all performed well and are recommended. In our view, however, you can do just as well using Oxi-Clean Powder, which is cheaper and possibly already in your laundry room.

Bottom line: Percarbonate-based cleaners are safe and effective when used as directed. You don’t have to buy a specialty cleaner to get the job done.

Surfactant based

For a quick cleaning, with allowing soaking time, these perform about the same as percarbonate-based cleaners.

The home-made Formula B (1 quart hot water, 1 tablespoon baking soda, 2 tablespoons washing soda, 2 tablespoons Borax, 2 tablespoons TSP) is an effective mildewcide with some preventative properties. However, it is not going to penetrate within laminates. It requires a little more pre-soak time than the Star Brite product (give it 10 minutes to work), but the results were similar.

Star Brite Canvas and Sail Cleaner is a good solid fabric cleaner. It removed what was on the surface but had limited effect on stains. Because it contains glycol ethers, we are not sure it is suitable for all laminate sailcloths.

Bottom line: Star Brite’s Canvas and Sail Cleaner is great for quick clean-up of surface dirt. For the budget conscious with a little more patience, Formula B is our Budget Buy.

CLEANING SERVICES

We have not used any cleaning services, although we have received feedback over the years from readers. Most of the users were satisfied, some expected something better, and the time required varies. All services will inspect and offer repairs. These may be required before they will risk washing them; the UV covers on some of the sails we tested were so deteriorated they would not have survived the cleaning process without damage. It is also important to be realistic in your expectations; some minor stains may remain, since the measures required to remove them might damage the sail.

Using the much-advertized LaMauney process, Sail Care cleans and re-seals the sail (using resins) to restore some level of crispness. The process does not affect the shape of the sail. They will not process laminate sails. Nylon sails are only washed. We’ve gotten mixed reviews from readers, and online comments also reflect varied levels of service. Some rave about the crisp sail they got back, others cite expensive repairs and no improvement.

Another company, Clean Sails uses a soaking process very similar to that described in this article.

Bottom Line: We don’t have enough experience to rate these services. We recommend trying some of the DIY techniques first.

CONCLUSIONS

Because stains vary, there can be no single winner. For rust stains, we like CLR. Dilute 20:1 with freshwater, soak for up to 15 minutes, and rinse. For extra measure, you could buy pH strips (at pet or pool stores) to monitor the pH, particularly with nylon. For surface dirt on polyester sails and canvas, we like Formula B; it kills mildew and leaves an inhibiting residue. For mildew and algae stains we like all of the oxygen bleach products, though CS-530 may have a slight edge in soil removal.

Just how clean did the sails and cushions come out?  They were near perfect and we were stunned. The sails came clean too, after a few weeks in the sun. But we would have accepted a few stains rather than use overly aggressive cleaning methods or chemicals.

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