sailboat cabin roof

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Forward Cabin Makeover

• By Roger Hughes
• Updated: February 3, 2021

I have been messing about on boats for more years than I care to remember, but it still never ceases to amaze me how many new things you learn when you restore an old boat. One example: Who knew that the ceiling on a boat is not the ceiling at all? “Ceilings” are those wooden slats often fitted by manufacturers on cabin sides, most frequently in a fo’c’sle. The correct nautical term for the actual roof (i.e., ceiling) of the cabin is “overhead.”

I learned these archaic snippets (whose only value are in impressing fellow mariners) when I decided to renovate the forward cabin of my 1977 Down East 45 schooner, Britannia. The cabin was still covered with 40-year-old ­faded foam-backed vinyl, much of it in rotten, smelly condition, and all the woodwork needed revarnishing, if not a complete replacement.

Nautical expressions can get somewhat confusing when referring to ceilings, which are really slats, and roofs, which are overheads. So for this article I decided to use common terms. “Roof” means the underside of the fiberglass deck that forms the actual roof of the cabin, and also includes the underside of the lower deck, forward of the bunks. “Slats” are the teak strips on the sides of the hull. “Side” means the sides of the cabin, both the lower sloping sides with the slats, and also the upper sides with the port lights in them.

Teak slats might look nice, but they are extremely difficult to clean behind and can trap dust and mildew. I therefore decided to remove all 22 of these 2-by-½-inch-thick strips from the sides, and replace them with easy-to-clean hygienic plastic sheeting. With six plugged screws securing each slat to the hull ribs, that was a lot of unscrewing—132 screws, to be precise! After the sides had been washed, an immediate improvement was that the cabin appeared larger, even though it had actually been widened by only a little over an inch.

I then cut out all the dirty vinyl covering on the sides and roof, which was glued and stapled to the fiberglass deck. I removed three port lights—two on the starboard side and one to port—then temporarily sealed the outside with duct tape to try to keep any rain out until I could reinstall them after I had fitted the new plastic side coverings.

Anyone who works on boats knows it is usually much easier to strip things out than to rebuild them, and this project was no exception. After cutting out all the dirty vinyl, I then made templates by taping sheets of foam art board together, then cutting and adding bits to form the exact shape of each side. Then I traced the template on a plastic sheet on the marina dock. Plas-Tex plastic sheet comes in 4-by-8-foot panels about 1/16-inch thick. It is very pliable, waterproof and washable, yet easily trimmed with scissors and a box cutter. It is sold by Lowe’s hardware store at $20 per sheet. I used a total of five sheets.

I glued the panels to each side of the hull using contact adhesive on the side ribs and battens that run along the top of the cabin. I used gel-type ­adhesive because it is not stringy and doesn’t drip like the regular sort. This is particularly important when applying glue upside down. I screwed a teak batten along the bottom of the sheet, which stopped it from sagging between the ribs.

With the lower panels in place, I then made templates for the upper sides, which curve around the shape of the deck. These were larger than the lower sides and more difficult to glue underneath. Reinstalling the port lights helped to keep the large side panels in place.

The largest and final piece of Plas-Tex had to be glued to the forward underside of the roof. I made the template by taping the art boards to the roof with masking tape to hold them in place while I trimmed and added pieces where required.

RELATED: Restoring Your Gelcoat

After cutting a plastic sheet to shape, I pre-glued the fiberglass roof and the plastic. Sticking it up after about 10 minutes was a delicate once-off operation because contact adhesive sticks—as its name suggests—on contact. I lay on my back while my wife slid the large sticky sheet over me, and I carefully placed it where I had made marks from the template. It was became a question of “push it up and hope,” and then pressing it in place with arms and legs while the glue made contact. I then made props to hold the sheet in place while the glue hardened.

I had originally trimmed the sheets to overlap each other by about half an inch. This enabled me to score through both overlapping layers at the same time, using a box cutter with a sharp new blade. I then stripped off the top layer and peeled away the inside layer, leaving a perfect butt joint between the two pieces. It was just a matter of cleaning excess glue with solvent.

I cut other teak trim pieces from the slats I had removed, varnished them, then glued them to cover the joints ­between the sides and roof.

There were also two ­sections that needed covering in the roof of the cabin, between the deck beams and around the hatch. For this I used the same tongue-and-groove plastic boards I had used throughout the rest of the boat. It is called plank paneling and is PVC planking used as wainscot panels on house walls. Each board is 7 inches wide and ¼-inch thick and comes in a pack of three boards, each 8 feet long, for $20 from Lowe’s. It’s reversible; one is molded with two strips and the other with three thinner strips. I decided to use the two-strip side. An important benefit, particularly on a boat, is the rot- and mildew-free lifetime guarantee, along with the ability to wash it with soap and water. I had also found that the thickness gave better thermal insulation from the hot deck compared with thin vinyl. I measured and trimmed these panels individually to accommodate any unevenness between the deck beams, then slotted them into the previous panel, and discreetly nailed them to the wooden beads that had supported the original vinyl. I needed only one pack to ­complete this small area.

These improvements made the cabin appear much larger than before because the dark wood slats tended to bring the sides inward. It is also brighter and much easier to clean.

I added a second 12-volt dome light to provide better light into this cabin. I also wired two 120-volt sconce lights and connected both systems to a double switch mounted near the door. This is a much more practical method than groping in the dark for the tiny overhead dome-light switches.

There are two hanging lockers, one to each side, that had been varnished with multiple layers over the years. I removed both locker doors, along with the pin rails around the shelf tops. I also removed the cabin door and the chain locker door and framework, along with four sliding drawers. I took them home to restore in my garage. The locker sides and tops had to be stripped in situ with varnish remover, then scraped down to the original teak. This was then cleaned with teak cleaner and given two coats of satin varnish, which brought out the beautiful golden tones of the wood. The inside of the lockers was then painted white.

As part of the renovation, I wondered what to do about the imitation-teak laminate shelf covering on top of the lockers. These were not scratched or damaged because Formica laminate is very resilient, but they had lost their luster over time. After experimenting with a small section, I decided to varnish them with clear gloss varnish. I cleaned the laminate with soap and water, then slapped on a liberal coat of clear gloss with a 2-inch brush. I then left the tops untouched for a week so the varnish could thoroughly dry to a hard finish. It set to a fine, smooth, shiny finish with the advantage that when it gets scratched—which it undoubtedly will—it will be easy to retouch with a dab of new varnish.

I then reinstalled the freshly varnished pin rails around the edges of the shelves. But instead of the square corners, which the original pin rail had, I made rounded corners out of spare wood. These look much nicer, but more important, they are not as painful when you bump your arm against them as the boat rolls.

We had taken the foam bunks to our home to wash the covers. When everything was replaced, we found ourselves with a pristine new double cabin. It had not cost a lot of money, if you don’t count the effort—but it was all worth it.

Serial DIYer Roger Hughes is a frequent contributor to Cruising World . See more of Britannia ’s renovation projects at schooner-britannia.com .

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This is the height at the centerline of the cabin, which we measure under the cabin-top amidships, usually located just forward of the companionway hatch. If headroom is less than 5' 0", it is sometimes given in brochures or ads as "sitting," whether it is 4' 11" or

3' 6". However, what counts as "sitting" for one observer may be "standing" for another. For example, designer Bob Perry, who is over six-feet tall, asserts that any headroom less than six feet is "sitting." But to the average person (men = 5' 9", women = 5' 4"), anything 5' 10" or more would be "standing." We attempt to ascertain headroom whenever we can, even if approximate, by measuring from plans or by quoting specifications in sales brochures.

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Sixty-Three Boats 14'-19'

Alacrity 19 (18) 19

Alerion Express Cat 19 20

Balboa 16* 68*

Baymaster 18* 68*

Blue Water Blackwatch 19 21

Cape Cod Cat 17 22

Cape Cod Goldeneye 18* 69*

Cape Dory Typhoon 18 (19) 23

Capri 18 25

Commodore 17 -see Skippers Mate 17

Com-Pac 19 27

Com-Pac Eclipse 18 28

Com-Pac Horizon 18 29

Com-Pac Legacy 17 69*

Com-Pac Sun Cat 17 30

Cornish Crabber 17 31

Cornish Shrimper 19 32

Eagle 21 -see Herreshoff Eagle 21 (18)

Gloucester 16 33

Gloucester 19 34

Goldeneye -see Cape Cod Goldeneye 18 Hermann Cat 17 -see Cape Cod Cat 17

Hermann 19* 70*

Herreshoff America 18 35

Herreshoff Eagle 21 (18) 36

Holder 17* 70*

Hunter 18.5 37

Hunter 19 38

Laguna 16 -see Balboa 16

MacGregor PowerSailer 19 39

Mariner 19 -see Rhodes Mariner 19

Marshall Sanderling 18 40

Maxi-Peep 19 41

Menger Cat 17 42

Menger Cat 19 43

Molly Catboat 17 44

Montego 19 45

Montgomery 15* 71*

Montgomery 17 46

Neptune 16 47

Newport 16 -see Gloucester 16

O'Day 19 48

O'Day 192 49

Peep Hen 14 51

Picnic 17 52

Pierce Arrow 18 53

Precision 165 (16) 54

Precision 18 (17) 55

Quickstep 19* 72*

Rhodes Mariner 19* 73*

Sanderling 18 -see Marshall

Sanderling 18 Sanibel 17 -see Skippers Mate 17 Sanibel 18 -see Skippers Mate 17

Seaward Fox II (17) 56

Silhouette 17* 73*

Skipper 20 (18) 57

Skippers Mate 17 58

Slipper Deckhouse 17 59

Snug Harbor 18 -see Skippers Mate 17

Sovereign 5.0/18 (17) 61

Spindrift 19 -see Starwind 19

Starwind 19 62

Vivacity 20 (19) 63

West Wight Potter 15 64

West Wight Potter 19 65

Windrose 18 66

Windrose 5.5 (18) 67

*13 vessels without accommodations plans are grouped together at end of chapter

Continue reading here: Cute but tiny cutter from Texas

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Readers' Questions

What is the headroom in a marshall cat sanderling?

The headroom in a Marshall Cat Sanderling refers to the amount of available volume/power before the sound starts to distort or clip. It is a measure of how loud you can go without losing clarity and definition in your tone. The exact headroom in a Marshall Cat Sanderling may vary depending on the specific model and settings, but generally, Marshall amps are known for having good headroom which allows for high volume levels with minimal distortion.

What is the interior hight of a 40 foot sailboat?

The interior height of a 40-foot sailboat can vary depending on its specific design and manufacturer. However, on average, the interior headroom of a 40-foot sailboat is typically around 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.1 meters). It is important to note that the measurements may differ in different areas of the boat, such as cabin areas or the saloon.

What is the headroom in a 2001 hylas 49?

The headroom in a 2001 Hylas 49 is approximately 6 feet 6 inches (1.98 meters) throughout most of the interior cabin area. However, please note that headroom can vary slightly depending on the specific configuration and any modifications made to the boat.

What is the headroom in a spindrift 24 sailboat?

The headroom in a Spindrift 24 sailboat typically ranges from 5 feet 9 inches to 6 feet 2 inches. However, it is always best to check with the manufacturer or the specific boat's specifications to get the most accurate measurement.

When does hunter sailboats build headroom of 6ft 6in.?

Hunter Sailboats typically build headroom of 6ft 6in in their models that are 40 feet and larger in length. However, it is always best to check with the specific model and year of the Hunter Sailboat you are interested in to confirm the headroom measurements.

What is the cabin headroom on a 1999 monk 36?

I'm sorry, but I couldn't find specific information about the cabin headroom of a 1999 Monk 36. It would be best to consult the owner's manual or contact a Monk boat dealer to get accurate measurements for the cabin headroom on that particular model.

What are the factors that determine cabin height [n a sailboat?

The factors that determine cabin height in a sailboat can vary depending on the design and purpose of the boat. However, some common factors include: Boat size: Generally, larger sailboats tend to have higher cabin heights due to the need for increased headroom and accommodations for extended stays. Design and purpose: Sailboats designed for racing typically prioritize low cabin heights to minimize wind resistance and reduce weight. Conversely, cruising or liveaboard sailboats may have higher cabin heights to allow for more comfortable living spaces. Hull shape: The shape of the hull can also affect cabin height. A sailboat with a sleek, low-profile hull design will typically have a lower cabin height compared to a boat with a more rounded or flared hull shape. Keel configuration: The keel configuration can also impact cabin height. Boats with deep draft keels often have deeper cabin spaces below the waterline, which can result in higher cabin heights. Cost and materials: The choice of materials and construction techniques can influence cabin height. Fiberglass or composite construction methods may provide more design flexibility compared to traditional wooden boat construction. Interior layout: The cabin height can also be influenced by the desired interior layout and accommodations. For example, if the boat includes a raised saloon area or multiple sleeping cabins, it may require higher cabin heights to accommodate those features. Accessibility and safety: Cabin heights may also be influenced by accessibility requirements and safety considerations. Higher cabin heights can make it easier to navigate and move around the interior space of the boat, reducing the risk of accidents or injuries. It's important to note that these factors can vary depending on the specific sailboat design and the preferences of the boat manufacturer or designer. Additionally, personal preferences and intended use can also influence the desired cabin height for individual boat owners.

How does stand up headroom affect a sailboat?

Stand up headroom refers to the vertical space inside a sailboat's cabin or main living area. It is an important factor in determining the comfort and usability of the boat for its occupants. Here is how stand-up headroom can affect a sailboat: Comfort: A sailboat with sufficient stand-up headroom provides a more comfortable living environment for its occupants. It allows them to stand upright without hunching over, making activities such as cooking, changing clothes, or moving around the cabin easier and more pleasant. Accessibility: When sailing, being able to move around the cabin without stooping or crawling contributes to accessibility and convenience. This is particularly important during rough weather conditions when it may be difficult to maintain balance and stability. Having enough headroom enhances safety and minimizes the risk of injuries caused by falling or colliding with low overhead objects. Ventilation and fresh air: A sailboat with ample headroom can accommodate larger windows, hatches, and ports, facilitating better ventilation and natural lighting. This promotes air circulation, reduces condensation, and creates a more comfortable and pleasant living environment on board. Storage capacity: Stand-up headroom also affects the storage capacity of a sailboat. More headroom usually means taller lockers and cabinets where gear, supplies, and personal belongings can be stored. It enables boaters to bring along more items and keeps the living area organized and clutter-free. Resale value: Sailboats with generous stand-up headroom tend to have a higher resale value compared to boats with limited headroom. Many buyers prioritize comfort and convenience when selecting a boat, and good headroom is often seen as a desirable feature. It is important to note that stand-up headroom is just one factor to consider when choosing a sailboat. Other considerations include the overall design, performance, stability, and intended use or sailing requirements.

What is the headroom in theta 26 sail boat?

The headroom in a Theta 26 sailboat is approximately 6’6”.

What is the headroom on a union 36 sailboat?

The headroom on a Union 36 sailboat is approximately 6'2".

How to increase headroom on a sailboat with too low of a cabin roof?

Add a taller companionway hatch. Install an arch-style cabin top. Rearrange the interior layout. Install a pop-top to the existing cabin top. Increase hull depth. Install opening hatches or ports. Install dorades or cowl vents. Install adjustable shutters or louvers on existing hatches. Install a centerboard or keel to increase draft. Raise the floor level of the berth or settee.

Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)

When you first get into sailing, there are a lot of sailboat parts to learn. Scouting for a good guide to all the parts, I couldn't find any, so I wrote one myself.

Below, I'll go over each different sailboat part. And I mean each and every one of them. I'll walk you through them one by one, and explain each part's function. I've also made sure to add good illustrations and clear diagrams.

This article is a great reference for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It's a great starting point, but also a great reference manual. Let's kick off with a quick general overview of the different sailboat parts.

General Overview

The different segments

You can divide up a sailboat in four general segments. These segments are arbitrary (I made them up) but it will help us to understand the parts more quickly. Some are super straightforward and some have a bit more ninja names.

Something like that. You can see the different segments highlighted in this diagram below:

The hull is what most people would consider 'the boat'. It's the part that provides buoyancy and carries everything else: sails, masts, rigging, and so on. Without the hull, there would be no boat. The hull can be divided into different parts: deck, keel, cabin, waterline, bilge, bow, stern, rudder, and many more.

I'll show you those specific parts later on. First, let's move on to the mast.

Sailboats Explained

The mast is the long, standing pole holding the sails. It is typically placed just off-center of a sailboat (a little bit to the front) and gives the sailboat its characteristic shape. The mast is crucial for any sailboat: without a mast, any sailboat would become just a regular boat.

I think this segment speaks mostly for itself. Most modern sailboats you see will have two sails up, but they can carry a variety of other specialty sails. And there are all kinds of sail plans out there, which determine the amount and shape of sails that are used.

The Rigging

This is probably the most complex category of all of them.

Rigging is the means with which the sails are attached to the mast. The rigging consists of all kinds of lines, cables, spars, and hardware. It's the segment with the most different parts.

The most important parts

If you learn anything from this article, here are the most important parts of any sailboat. You will find all of these parts in some shape or form on almost any sailboat.

Okay, we now have a good starting point and a good basic understanding of the different sailboat parts. It's time for the good stuff. We're going to dive into each segment in detail.

Below, I'll go over them one by one, pointing out its different parts on a diagram, listing them with a brief explanation, and showing you examples as well.

After reading this article, you'll recognize every single sailboat part and know them by name. And if you forget one, you're free to look it up in this guide.

On this page:

The hull is the heart of the boat. It's what carries everything: the mast, the sails, the rigging, the passengers. The hull is what provides the sailboat with its buoyancy, allowing it to stay afloat.

Sailboats mostly use displacement hulls, which is a shape that displaces water when moving through it. They are generally very round and use buoyancy to support its own weight. These two characteristics make sure it is a smooth ride.

There are different hull shapes that work and handle differently. If you want to learn more about them, here's the Illustrated Guide to Boat Hull Types (with 11 Examples ). But for now, all we need to know is that the hull is the rounded, floating part of any sailboat.

Instead of simply calling the different sides of a hull front, back, left and right , we use different names in sailing. Let's take a look at them.

The bow is the front part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'front'. It's the pointy bit that cuts through the water. The shape of the bow determines partially how the boat handles.

The stern is the back part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'back'. The shape of the stern partially determines the stability and speed of the boat. With motorboats, the stern lies deep inside the water, and the hull is flatter aft. Aft also means back. This allows it to plane, increasing the hull speed. For sailboats, stability is much more important, so the hull is rounded throughout, increasing its buoyancy and hydrodynamic properties.

The transom is the backplate of the boat's hull. It's the most aft (rear) part of the boat.

Port is the left side of a sailboat.

Starboard is the right side of a sailboat

The bilges are the part where the bottom and the sides of the hull meet. On sailboats, these are typically very round, which helps with hydrodynamics. On powerboats, they tend to have an angle.

The waterline is the point where the boat's hull meets the water. Generally, boat owners paint the waterline and use antifouling paint below it, to protect it from marine growth.

The deck is the top part of the boat's hull. In a way, it's the cap of the boat, and it holds the deck hardware and rigging.

Displacement hulls are very round and smooth, which makes them very efficient and comfortable. But it also makes them very easy to capsize: think of a canoe, for example.

The keel is a large fin that offsets the tendency to capsize by providing counterbalance. Typically, the keel carries ballast in the tip, creating a counterweight to the wind's force on the sails.

The rudder is the horizontal plate at the back of the boat that is used to steer by setting a course and maintaining it. It is connected to the helm or tiller.

Tiller or Helm

• The helm is simply the nautical term for the wheel.
• The tiller is simply the nautical term for the steering stick.

The tiller or helm is attached to the rudder and is used to steer the boat. Most smaller sailboats (below 30') have a tiller, most larger sailboats use a helm. Large ocean-going vessels tend to have two helms.

The cockpit is the recessed part in the deck where the helmsman sits or stands. It tends to have some benches. It houses the outside navigation and systems interfaces, like the compass, chartplotter, and so on. It also houses the mainsheet traveler and winches for the jib. Most boats are set up so that the entire vessel can be operated from the cockpit (hence the name). More on those different parts later.

Most larger boats have some sort of roofed part, which is called the cabin. The cabin is used as a shelter, and on cruising sailboats you'll find the galley for cooking, a bed, bath room, and so on.

The mast is the pole on a sailboat that holds the sails. Sailboats can have one or multiple masts, depending on the mast configuration. Most sailboats have only one or two masts. Three masts or more is less common.

The boom is the horizontal pole on the mast, that holds the mainsail in place.

The sails seem simple, but actually consist of many moving parts. The parts I list below work for most modern sailboats - I mean 90% of them. However, there are all sorts of specialty sails that are not included here, to keep things concise.

The mainsail is the largest sail on the largest mast. Most sailboats use a sloop rigging (just one mast with one bermuda mainsail). In that case, the main is easy to recognize. With other rig types, it gets more difficult, since there can be multiple tall masts and large sails.

If you want to take a look at the different sail plans and rig types that are out there, I suggest reading my previous guide on how to recognize any sailboat here (opens in new tab).

Sail sides:

• Leech - Leech is the name for the back side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Luff - Luff is the name for the front side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Foot - Foot is the name for the lower side of the sail, where it meets the boom.

Sail corners:

• Clew - The clew is the lower aft (back) corner of the mainsail, where the leech is connected to the foot. The clew is attached to the boom.
• Tack - The tack is the lower front corner of the mainsail
• Head - The head is the top corner of the mainsail

Battens are horizontal sail reinforcers that flatten and stiffen the sail.

Telltales are small strings that show you whether your sail trim is correct. You'll find telltales on both your jib and mainsail.

The jib is the standard sized headsail on a Bermuda Sloop rig (which is the sail plan most modern sailboats use).

As I mentioned: there are all kinds, types, and shapes of sails. For an overview of the most common sail types, check out my Guide on Sail Types here (with photos).

The rigging is what is used to attach your sails and mast to your boat. Rigging, in other words, mostly consists of all kinds of lines. Lines are just another word for ropes. Come to think of it, sailors really find all kinds of ways to complicate the word rope ...

Two types of rigging

There are two types of rigging: running and standing rigging. The difference between the two is very simple.

• The running rigging is the rigging on a sailboat that's used to operate the sails. For example, the halyard, which is used to lower and heave the mainsail.
• The standing rigging is the rigging that is used to support the mast and sail plan.

Standing Rigging

Here are the different parts that belong to the standing rigging:

• Forestay or Headstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the bow of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Backstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the stern of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Sidestay or Shroud - Line or cable that supports the mast from the sides of the boat. Most sailboats use at least two sidestays (one on each side).
• Spreader - The sidestays are spaced to steer clear from the mast using spreaders.

Running Rigging: different words for rope

Ropes play a big part in sailing, and especially in control over the sails. In sailboat jargon, we call ropes 'lines'. But there are some lines with a specific function that have a different name. I think this makes it easier to communicate with your crew: you don't have to define which line you mean. Instead, you simply shout 'mainsheet!'. Yeah, that works.

Running rigging consists of the lines, sheets, and hardware that are used to control, raise, lower, shape and manipulate the sails on a sailboat. Rigging varies for different rig types, but since most sailboats are use a sloop rig, nearly all sailboats use the following running rigging:

• Halyards -'Halyard' is simply the nautical name for lines or ropes that are used to raise and lower the mainsail. The halyard is attached to the top of the mainsail sheet, or the gaffer, which is a top spar that attaches to the mainsail. You'll find halyards on both the mainsail and jib.
• Sheets - 'Sheet' is simply the nautical term for lines or ropes that are used to set the angle of the sail.
• Mainsheet - The line, or sheet, that is used to set the angle of the mainsail. The mainsheet is attached to the Mainsheet traveler. More on that under hardware.
• Jib Sheet - The jib mostly comes with two sheets: one on each side of the mast. This prevents you from having to loosen your sheet, throwing it around the other side of the mast, and tightening it. The jib sheets are often controlled using winches (more on that under hardware).
• Cleats are small on-deck hooks that can be used to tie down sheets and lines after trimming them.
• Reefing lines - Lines that run through the mainsail, used to put a reef in the main.
• The Boom Topping Lift is a line that is attached to the aft (back) end of the boom and runs to the top of the mast. It supports the boom whenever you take down the mainsail.
• The Boom Vang is a line that places downward tension on the boom.

There are some more tensioning lines, but I'll leave them for now. I could probably do an entire guide on the different sheets on a sailboat. Who knows, perhaps I'll write it.

This is a new segment, that I didn't mention before. It's a bit of an odd duck, so I threw all sorts of stuff into this category. But they are just as important as all the other parts. Your hardware consists of cleats, winches, traveler and so on. If you don't know what all of this means, no worries: neither did I. Below, you'll find a complete overview of the different parts.

Deck Hardware

Just a brief mention of the different deck hardware parts:

• Pulpits are fenced platforms on the sailboat's stern and bow, which is why they are called the bow pulpit and stern pulpit here. They typically have a solid steel framing for safety.
• Stanchons are the standing poles supporting the lifeline , which combined for a sort of fencing around the sailboat's deck. On most sailboats, steel and steel cables are used for the stanchons and lifelines.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a rail in the cockpit that is used to control the mainsheet. It helps to lock the mainsheet in place, fixing the mainsails angle to the wind.

If you're interested in learning more about how to use the mainsheet traveler, Matej has written a great list of tips for using your mainsheet traveler the right way . It's a good starting point for beginners.

Winches are mechanical or electronic spools that are used to easily trim lines and sheets. Most sailboats use winches to control the jib sheets. Modern large sailing yachts use electronic winches for nearly all lines. This makes it incredibly easy to trim your lines.

You'll find the compass typically in the cockpit. It's the most old-skool navigation tool out there, but I'm convinced it's also one of the most reliable. In any way, it definitely is the most solid backup navigator you can get for the money.

Want to learn how to use a compass quickly and reliably? It's easy. Just read my step-by-step beginner guide on How To Use a Compass (opens in new tab .

Chartplotter

Most sailboats nowadays use, besides a compass and a map, a chartplotter. Chartplotters are GPS devices that show a map and a course. It's very similar to your normal car navigation.

Outboard motor

Most sailboats have some sort of motor to help out when there's just the slightest breeze. These engines aren't very big or powerful, and most sailboats up to 32' use an outboard motor. You'll find these at the back of the boat.

Most sailboats carry 1 - 3 anchors: one bow anchor (the main one) and two stern anchors. The last two are optional and are mostly used by bluewater cruisers.

I hope this was helpful, and that you've gained a good understanding of the different parts involved in sailing. I wanted to write a good walk-through instead of overwhelming you with lists and lists of nautical terms. I hope I've succeeded. If so, I appreciate any comments and tips below.

I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, without getting into the real nitty gritty. That would make for a gigantic article. However, if you feel I've left something out that really should be in here, please let me know in the comments below, so I can update the article.

I own a small 20 foot yacht called a Red witch made locally back in the 70s here in Western Australia i found your article great and enjoyed reading it i know it will be a great help for me in my future leaning to sail regards John.

David Gardner

İ think this is a good explanation of the difference between a ”rope” and a ”line”:

Rope is unemployed cordage. In other words, when it is in a coil and has not been assigned a job, it is just a rope.

On the other hand, when you prepare a rope for a specific task, it becomes employed and is a line. The line is labeled by the job it performs; for example, anchor line, dock line, fender line, etc.

Hey Mr. Buckles

I am taking on new crew to race with me on my Flying Scot (19ft dingy). I find your Sailboat Parts Explained to be clear and concise. I believe it will help my new crew learn the language that we use on the boat quickly without being overwhelmed.

PS: my grandparents were from Friesland and emigrated to America.

Thank you Shawn for the well written, clear and easy to digest introductory article. Just after reading this first article I feel excited and ready to set sails and go!! LOL!! Cheers! Daniel.

steve Balog

well done, chap

Great intro. However, the overview diagram misidentifies the cockpit location. The cockpit is located aft of the helm. Your diagram points to a location to the fore of the helm.

William Thompson-Ambrose

An excellent introduction to the basic anatomy and function of the sailboat. Anyone who wants to start sailing should consider the above article before stepping aboard! Thank-you

James Huskisson

Thanks for you efforts mate. We’ve all got to start somewhere. Thanks for sharing. Hoping to my first yacht. 25ft Holland. Would love to cross the Bass Strait one day to Tasmania. 👌 Cheers mate

Alan Alexander Percy

thankyou ijust aquired my first sailboat at 66yrs of age its down at pelican point a beautifull place in virginia usa my sailboat is a redwing 30 if you are ever in the area i wouldnt mind your guidance and superior knowledge of how to sail but iam sure your fantastic article will help my sailboat is wings 30 ft

Thanks for quick refresher course. Having sailed in California for 20+ years I now live in Spain where I have to take a spanish exam for a sailboat license. Problem is, it’s only in spanish. So a lot to learn for an old guy like me.

Very comprehensive, thank you

Your article really brought all the pieces together for me today. I have been adventuring my first sailing voyage for 2 months from the Carolinas and am now in Eleuthera waiting on weather to make the Exumas!!! Great job and thanks

Helen Ballard

I’ve at last found something of an adventure to have in sailing, so I’m starting at the basics, I have done a little sailing but need more despite being over 60 life in the old dog etc, thanks for your information 😊

Barbara Scott

I don’t have a sailboat, neither do l plan to literally take to the waters. But for mental exercise, l have decided to take to sailing in my Bermuda sloop, learning what it takes to become a good sailor and run a tight ship, even if it’s just imaginary. Thank you for helping me on my journey to countless adventures and misadventures, just to keep it out of the doldrums! (I’m a 69 year old African American female who have rediscovered why l enjoyed reading The Adventures of Robert Louis Stevenson as well as his captivating description of sea, wind, sailboat,and sailor).

Great article and very good information source for a beginner like me. But I didn’t find out what I had hoped to, which is, what are all those noisy bits of kit on top of the mast? I know the one with the arrow is a weather vane, but the rest? Many thanks, Jay.

Louis Cohen

The main halyard is attached to the head of the mainsail, not the to the mainsheet. In the USA, we say gaff, not gaffer. The gaff often has its own halyard separate from the main halyard.

Other than that it’s a nice article with good diagrams.

A Girl Who Has an Open Sail Dream

Wow! That was a lot of great detail! Thank you, this is going to help me a lot on my project!

Hi, good info, do u know a book that explains all the systems on a candc 27,

Emma Delaney

As a hobbyist, I was hesitant to invest in expensive CAD software, but CADHOBBY IntelliCAD has proven to be a cost-effective alternative that delivers the same quality and performance.

https://www.cadhobby.com/

Leave a comment

You may also like, guide to understanding sail rig types (with pictures).

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

The Illustrated Guide To Boat Hull Types (11 Examples)

How To Live On a Boat For Free: How I'd Do It

How To Live on a Sailboat: Consider These 5 Things

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Steps in Building a SCAMP sailboat

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Closing in the Cabin

Now that the side and front decks are glued down I can start closing in the cubby / cabin. There are 2 sides and a roof. It's not really a cabin because it's open at the back.

Checking that the pieces actually fit on.

For the most part the sides fit quite well. I will need to trim them slightly at the top but I'll wait till they are glued on before trimming. I had decided where the portholes were to be located. I tried a few spots and cut the opening using the circle cutter. Here is a link to the porthole construction.

After some tweaking I put several coats of epoxy on the sides.

The front curvey bit gets a drain hole, a notch to allow for the thickness of the front deck, and a doubler. Once I had glued on the doubler and made the notch I was able to check the fit and sand the front end of the cabin side.

After cutting the mast case hole I was able to put the roof on but it was too stiff to bend easily. That is a bit of a problem because it does not have any epoxy on yet.

While I think about how to fit the roof on, I bent it on the bench using clamps. A few days in this position helped a lot but it was still quite stiff.

When I went to the farm supply store to get some bird seed I saw that they had a ratchet set with heavy duty strap on sale for 12 dollars. I grabbed one and it worked very well to bend the roof on enough that I could measure and cut the side support pieces. I had kept a piece of ash for this. I split it down the centre at an angle. This will reduce the amount of planing I will have to do to accommodate the angle of the roof.

Gluing the sides on

I spent some time figuring out exactly how the side rail, cubby and doublers all join in and fit together. It is not complicated but I had a senior's moment reading the manual and looking at the flat pieces.

I also spent some time sanding the inside faces of the side pieces and the front with its doubler. I had to figure out how to clamp the sides on before gluing them on. It does not need a lot of clamping but there is a slight curve.

The sides are glued on and clamped. In the end I used mostly rope through the windows to tighten the pieces together.

I did not worry about getting a perfect glue line. I can reach all the edges and will be doing fillets and smoothing out the glue lines later. Since some of the edges are quite visible they need to be nicely done.

Fitting the side support pieces took a bit of time because I checked the roof curve and made sure that there was a straight line between the second and 4th bulkheads. As it turned out the 3 rd bulkhead was just a bit lower. Well within the capability of epoxy to fill. If it had been higher I would have had to trim it. I used straight pieces of wood to check that the front to back lines were ok and curvy battens to check the curve across the boat. When I was satisfied that the fit was as good as I would get, I marked the glue line and glued on the support beam.

I love using the planes when they are sharp and the wood knot free. It took no time at all to cut the angle of the wood to match the roof angle.

I went on to work on other parts and eventually got back to the cuddy.

I had not glued in the mast ramp onto the mast partner. This is there to help guide the mast in when it is being stepped. Some folks, thanks Simeon, suggested that building up the fitting that sticks out of the roof helps keep rain out of the mast area. It allows for a boot to be fitted to the raised lip of the mast opening. I will likely do this after I've glued the roof on.

I glued a couple of doubler along the top edge of the second bulkhead to give me a wider gluing surface.

I had had to get another strap because I could not get an even pressure across the length. Luckily for me Canadian Tire was having a sale and had them at half price. I'll use them later to attach the boat to the trailer.

With the ramp in place I could finalize the roof opening. I could also see if the roof would fit and could be clamped while it set.

It's a good thing I did another fitting because I found that the roof sort of bulged where the opening is located. I tried putting a couple of 2x4 to push the roof down while tightening the straps but it did not work very well.

When I posted the photo of the mast location opening, Simeon Baldwin suggested that the sides could be raised by about 3/4 of an inch to allow a sleeve to be installed around the mast and fastened to this extension. This would reduce the amount of rainwater coming in through the mast opening.

After some fiddling I decided to screw the top section down temporarily with a stick to even out the pressure. This worked perfectly.

I had prepared 2 stiff sticks to support the outer edge while the straps pulled the roof down. Once I was happy this would work I took it apart again and got ready to actually glue the roof down.

I was quite worried but everything went as planned. I coated the underside of the roof with a heavy coat of epoxy which soaked in quite a lot. Then I put a line of glue on all the top surfaces, side supports, bulkhead tops around the mast opening and the support beams. It was easy to lower the roof and the mast partner aligned the roof.

After screwing the (oiled) screws in I positioned the 3 straps and the 2 pieces of wood for the edge and gradually tightened the set up. I had to reposition the side pieces of wood but otherwise everything went down well.

After adding a couple of clamps where the strap had not pulled quite enough at the edges, I went around and removed extra squeezed out epoxy. I found a few gaps and added some epoxy in there. Got my hair completely gummed up in the process.

I did not make any fillets. I will go around when everything is set and nicely cleaned up and fillet the seams.

The roof gets a doubler just behind the third bulkhead which is the opening of the cuddy.

When I checked the fit of the doubler I realized that the roof would not be long enough for the doubler overhang. I prepared and glued a small extension to the roof and glued it in at the same time as the doubler. It's only short about a quarter inch.

The doubler is the right size and aligns perfectly with the side panels so I'm not changing these dimensions

It took a bit of fitting but went on without much of an argument. I added lots of clamps to get proper connection with the roof.

Even though the roof is only 6mm plywood it's turning out to be quite strong and rigid. I had planned several reinforcements but other than a couple of backing boards for cleats and such I will not add more stiffening and will avoid adding weight. I will put a layer of glass on the roof I think.

I took the clamps and straps off and checked the roof. Everything seems to be solid and where it should be.

The curve of the roof piece turned out to be greater than the curve of the side piece (the one with the porthole). This means that the roof overhangs on the side more in some places than others. It also means that the roof piece does not quite fit. There is about 3/16 missing at the very front of the roof. I don't think that's a problem since I'll be trimming the roof to the dimensions of the support piece of wood along the edge. I can also fill the shortage.

The front extension piece went in well and the extra glue needs to be sanded / scraped flush.

I used my new carbide scraper to even out the top of the roof where there was glue squeeze out where I made the small addition. This scraper is a revelation to me and I keep finding ways of using it.

I used my sander with 40 grit paper to trim the doubler/roof line. It worked really well and now I have to decide how to trim the piece of wood that lines the side of the cabin and supports the roof along the edge. it overhangs front and back.

Using 40 grit paper is not entirely easy, or rather it's entirely way too easy to grind too much. If you try this go with a light hand.

Both front and back of the cuddy roof support needed trimming. The hardest was deciding exactly what angle I wanted the trim to follow. I just extended the roof line.

I used the Japanese saw on both the front and the back.

The roof is trimmed and I've filled various spots that had slight gap around the edge of the roof. When I trimmed the support beam I used a flexible batten to show me the curve of the roof, that means that there was a slight curve on the beam. When I glued on the roof the plywood did not curve as much as the batten and this created a slight gap on the very edge. Not a large gap but noticeable.

After the epoxy set I sanded the filling and the edge of cuts.

I used my sander with coarse grit to round the edge. The darker part is where I filled the back of the roof with epoxy.

I was hard visually to see if I was rounding evenly so I made a sanding block cut in the curve I wanted. Funny photo taken from the edge of the block with sandpaper.

The block allowed me to even out the edge and smooth it. I also rounded the curve at the end of the support beam.

I now need to sand and get the mast opening cleaned up.

Simeon Baldwin suggested to me that a higher lip on the edge would allow a boot to be fitted which would prevent rain from coming in. I though this would be a good idea so I prepared extensions to glue on. These are about 3/4 of an inch. Enough for snap fastening to be fitted.

Before gluing I took photos and when I looked at the photos I realized I did not like the look of the extension. This is one of the first times when I decided not to do something that is actually a good idea.

If I decide it's a modification that I would like, it's not difficult to reach the area in the future. Since this boat will be primarily a day sailor, I am not so worried about rain coming in. Besides a camping tent could have a small extension that would cover the back of the cuddy up to the mast and waterproof that opening.

I sanded and cleaned up the edges. I also went around with thickened epoxy to fill any screw hole I had left. There was a small gap around the edge of the mast opening and I filled that.

I still need to even out the front overhang of the roof and round the front and back edges.

A quick sand of the area and I'm ready to glass the roof.

I dug up the fiberglass and cut a suitable piece. I had to think about how to handle the mast opening and decided to cut around it. The mast case is already glassed and the only piece I still need to do is the little ramp. I'll not worry about it in this session.

I taped the loose edge to that the glass would go around the edge nicely but I think that's overkill.

The roof is glassed and the corners are tidy. I had a bit of a worry. My epoxy is starting to crystallize because of the cold shop. While I was rolling it out I noticed some small lumps. That likely means that there is slightly more hardener than necessary. I took whatever lumps I could off the weave and I'm hoping for the best.

The epoxy has hardened normally with just a few little bumps. These will sand out fine. The glass is trimmed and still too soft to sand.

That's the roof done. A need a bit of glass on the mast box but otherwise that's pretty much done too.

I think I'll start getting the boat ready to turn over. I need some sturdy workhorses to support it. The ones I have are just a bit on the short side.

emails: Christine

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Constructing cabin roof

Discussion in ' Wooden Boat Building and Restoration ' started by EStaggs , Apr 6, 2010 .

EStaggs Senior Member

So here I sit trying to figure out how I'm going to build out my cabin roof. Thought I'd come to the pros to see what ideas they might have. Need to build a hard top over an open cabin. Will have 3 panel windshield, two hard sides, and open aft to the fish deck. This will be built on a 23 foot Clippercraft sportfisher, and needs to have enough strength to not be destroyed by a 200lb person. Typically will only have rods, crab pots, and a radar on it, don't intend it to be a platform for spotting or anything. Walls will be 6mm ply, forward panels as well. Considering doing laminated beams with a 6mm panel over them, laminating 3 6mm panels together and doing a single aft beam on the exterior (to preserve headroom) for support, or possibly foam core with 3mm skins on the outside. Any and all advice/ideas are accepted. This needs to be something relatively quickly built, as I am on a deadline. Here she is in templating stock: The roofline will come down around an inch or two before the final sheets are cut. Thanks for your input. E  

alan white Senior Member

You've got enough crown to laminate a roof from thin plywood. You could laminate plywood or strip-build it. If plywod alone (no beams), try to achieve 1/2"-9/16"" total. If strip-built over a form, use red cedar 1/2" thick and 10 oz fiberglass cloth inside and out. With low headroom, you can run EXTERNAL longitudinal stringers 2"-2 1/2" tall incorporated (bonded) into 3/8" plywood (good mounts for handrails) a foot or so in on each side. This would stiffen up the plywood enough to obviate the need for any internal beams. I like this approach for speed and because the hand rails can be mounted on the external stringers (which can be wider at the base (1 1/2") and angled to a narrower top surface (3/4"), more or less keystone-shaped in section.  

Alan, I was out of town and wasn't able to access this, thanks for posting. So laminating 2 sheets of 1/4" okoume and sheathing it in 6oz woven fabric would be plenty. I had thought about just doing full length hoop style hand holds cut from 2"x4" dimensional lumber. Wasn't sure if I was going to do a longitudinal member underneath it or if it would be enough strength as-is, epoxied down and backed with #12 SS screws. Thanks again. E  

It's impossible to advise without seeing plans, but it's probable that 1/2" would be okay. The problem can be where a hatch is located, the break in the ply tends to straighten the curve leading up to it. Then transverse frames would help. Alternately, as said, strip-building the cabin top will work well in such a situation. You needn't glass plywood---- epoxy alone will be fine.  

mark775 Guest

Alan, I don't see where he said a hatch will be put in it. There are boats here with external frames but I like it internal if necessary. Because it will carry a crab pot, etc., it needs glass fabric. You can get the Shelman Marine ply in Spokane - It has a fungicidal glue and is wonderfully rot resistant. E, I took a peak at your site - Nice ice box but if you dont put a drain with a P-trap, you will be sorry. No big deal, copper tubing with flare epoxied in place. The P-trap keeps the cold from flowing down and out. Tryt not to drain into bilge if you have another place to drain. IMO, the cabin does not look too tall, if fact, when they are cut down too much, they look chopped; Nice work, E.  

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I'd say that without a hatch, plywood will be consistant in curvature, but if there's a sliding type hatch, a single curved frame could be installed externally, located just across the forward end of the hatch. Alternately, two partial frames could be put inside, and the forward hatch frame could sit above the roof and control the curvature of the roof in the middle. That way there's no head-bumper in the middle when going below.  

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My Cruiser Life Magazine

Illustrated Guide to Sailboat Parts [Updated 2023]

The lingo of sailing is baffling to many newcomers. While the actual sailing is pretty easy, it’s hard to wrap your mind around the bookwork when it seems like every little thing on a boat goes by its own nautical term. 

Here are a few names for parts of a sailboat that you might not have thought about before. For even more nautical word play, check out our complete guide to sailing terms .

Parts of Sailboat Hulls

The boat’s hull is its main body. Most are made of fiberglass, but there are a few aluminum sailboat models out there too. Wood is more traditional but more difficult to maintain than these modern alternatives. Sailboat hulls are displacement hulls, which means they sit low in the water and move relatively slowly. The hull’s job is to displace water, so you stay afloat!

Bow The forward “pointy end” of the boat.

Stern The rear end of the boat.

Transom If the stern of a boat has a flat section, it is called the transom. (I wrote about it in detail here: What Is the Transom on a Boat )

Canoe Stern or Double-Ender Some boats lack a transom; instead, their stern comes to a point like a bow. This is a “double ender” or a canoe stern.

Port and Starboard Sides Port is the left side, and starboard is the right side. 

Freeboard This is the height of the sides of the boat above the water.

Deck The upper portion of the boat that you walk on. 

Sheer Sheer is the curve of the deck when viewed from the side. Some boats have none, and some boats have a lot. 

Cabin Coach Roof Most sailboats have a raised coach roof on top of the cabin area.

Bottom of a Sailboat – Keels and Things

There are tons of parts on a sailboat that you only ever see if it’s out of the water. Boats are hauled out at boatyards by giant cranes, or a special machine called a travel lift . 

Keel The boat’s keel is the underwater feature that counters the effects of wind pressure on the sails. It keeps the boat from tipping over, but it also keeps the boat going in a straight line as it moves through the water. If a boat has no keel, the wind will push it downwind. 

A keel is heavy–it is weighted with thousands of pounds of ballast (usually lead). So when someone refers to a “keelboat,” they mean that it is a big boat with a weighted keel built for cruising. The built-in weight of a keel keeps the boat from capsizing. Also, the water flow over the curved surface of the keel helps the boat sail into the wind.

Smaller boats with centerboards or daggerboards are on the opposite end of the spectrum from keelboats. These aren’t weighted and could tip over (capsize) in the wrong conditions.

Types of Keels

Full Keel A classic and time-tested design, full keel boats are favorites among passage-making and ocean-crossing cruisers. They’re stable and comfortable at sea and very safe. However, they have a reputation for being slow compared to more modern designs.

Modified Full Keel The modification is a cut-away forefoot. That means it looks like a full keel, but there isn’t as much keel up near the bow. This reduces the underwater “wetted surface area” and makes the design a little bit faster while preserving the other good things about full keel designs.

Fin Keel The fin keel looks like a shark’s fin pointed downward. Some are narrow and very deep, while others are longer and shallow. Fin keels are bolted to the bottom of an otherwise flat-looking hull design. The fin has a foil shape that creates a lifting force as water flows over it. In addition to its ballasted weight, this opposes the sails and leeway. Most modern sailboats have some version of a fin keel.

Bulb Keel The ballast should be placed as low as possible to lower the boat’s center of gravity. The bulb keel is a fin keel with a lead bulb added to the bottom. The bulb has an efficient shape, making it more efficient than just the fin alone.

Wing Keel Like a bulb, a wing keel works by adding more weight and hydrodynamic force to the bottom of the keel. As a result, the wings look like a little airplane mounted on the bottom of a fin keel. 

Swing Keel A swing keel is a fin that pivots up and into the boat, meaning that you can have a very shallow draft when you are docking or anchoring but also a very deep draft when you are sailing in open waters. This heavy keel requires a powerful and complicated electric or hydraulic-electric system. 

Lifting Keel A lifting keel is similar to a swing keel, only the keel lifts up into the hull vertically. 

Bilge Keels A bilge keel boat has two fin keels mounted at 45-degree angles below the hull. The advantage is that the boat can “dry out.” This makes them very popular in harbors around England, where the massive tidal range means that the harbor is only mud for half the day. 

Centerboard Centerboards look like swing keels, but the “keel” part is just a board. It isn’t weighted with lead or iron, so it doesn’t change the ballast of the boat any. They are often found on smaller sailboats like sailing dinghies, but there are also large cruising boats that have full keels or long-fin keels with centerboards, too. 

Daggerboard A daggerboard is like a centerboard, only it doesn’t swing. Instead, it goes straight up and down like a dagger into its sheath. They’re not only common on very small sailing dinghies but also large cruising catamarans.

Canting Keel Canting keels are some of the latest technology items in racing, so they aren’t found on cruising boats yet. They move from side to side, allowing the crew to precisely control the forces made by the keel.

Types of Rudders – What Steers a Sailboat

As with keels, you’ll see various types of rudders on sailboats. The rudder is one of the most critical parts of a sailboat’s equipment, so the differences in rudders are mostly about how protected it is from damage.

Rudder The rudder is the thing that steers the sailboat. It’s mounted on the back of the boat, sometimes looking a bit like a second keel. When the operator turns the steering wheel or tiller, it moves the rudder one way or the other. That, in turn, turns the yacht’s bow left or right. 

Transom-Hung Rudder The most basic type of rudder is hung on the transom. It’s usually controlled with a tiller instead of a wheel. You can see a transom-hung rudder above the water.

Keel-Mounted Rudder On a full keel boat, the rudder will be mounted on the back edge of the keel. This protects it completely from damage since anything the boat might hit will hit the keel first. 

Skeg-Mounted Rudder The rudder might be mounted to a skeg if a boat has a fin keel. A skeg is a small fixed surface that holds the rudder and supports it. In the case of a full skeg, it also protects the rudder as a full keel would.

Spade Rudder Spade rudders have no skeg, so the entire underwater surface moves when you turn the wheel. Most modern yachts have spade rudders because they are incredibly effective. They are easily damaged, however, which is why some offshore sailors still prefer skeg-hung rudders.

Bottom of Sail Boat – Running Gear

Running gear is the generic name given to all equipment under the boat that connects to the engine and moves the boat under power. It consists of the propeller, prop shaft, and supports. 

Propeller Also called the prop or screw, the prop is what converts the engine power into thrust. The water flow over its blades creates a pushing force that moves the boat. Since the sailboat doesn’t use the propeller when it is sailing, sailboats often have folding or feathering props that stop moving.

Prop Shaft The metal shaft that connects the engine to the propeller is called the prop shaft. 

Cutlass Bearing Where the prop shaft exits the hull, a rubber cutlass bearing keeps it centered and rotating freely. 

Saildrive A saildrive is a common arrangement on modern sailboats that uses a vertical drive leg with the propeller. The saildrive installs on the back of the engine and includes the transmission. It’s like the lower unit of an outboard motor, but you cannot raise it out of the water. 

Up Top – Types of Sailboat Designs

Aft Cockpit The “classic” design of the modern sailboat, if there is such a thing, is called the aft cockpit. This layout has the cockpit in the rear-most section of the hull, behind the cabin.

Center Cockpit The center cockpit sailboat has the cockpit closer to the mast. That leaves a lot of space in the rear of the hull for a huge stateroom. This design means that the cockpit will be closer to the boat’s center, making handling easier. But it is also higher, making more windage and motion at sea. 

Pilot House A pilot house sailboat has a second helm inside a protected area. These are popular in colder climates, where the pilot house provides a warm place to steer the boat from. The rear cockpit is usually smaller than a typical aft cockpit, but it’s still where the sail handling occurs. A pilot house has a raised level, so the salon typically surrounds the interior helm to utilize that space and visibility when not underway.

Deck Salon Like a pilot house, a deck salon has big windows and better visibility than a typical sailboat cabin. But it lacks a true interior helm. Many, however, have nav stations with forward visibility and autopilot controls, making it a comfortable place to sit and keep watch during a passage. 

Flush Deck Most sailboats have a raised coach roof where the interior cabin is. But some designers make their decks flush with the sides of the boat, making a wide open deck that is easy to move around on. 

On Deck Sailboat Components – Sailboat Front

The deck of a sailboat is all about safety at sea. Most modern cruising boats are rigged such that there are few things you might need to go “out on deck” or “go forward” for. Instead, these things are rigged back to the cockpit, so you can stay safe and dry while doing your thing.

Since the wet pitching deck of a sailboat at sea is tricky, many of the things you’ll find there are safety-related.

Handholds Places to grab should be located all over the boat, so there’s never a risk of not having something to hold onto to stabilize yourself.

Lifelines Lifelines run the perimeter of the boat and provide a last-ditch safety device. You can grab them, and they should be high enough that they’ll keep you from going overboard. 

Stantions The stands that lifelines attach to.

Bow Pulpit The solid rail around the front of the boat provides a safe handhold and a starting point for the lifelines.

Stern Pushpit The same, but on the stern of the boat.

Bulwarks The raised edges of the deck on the sides so that you can’t slip overboard on accident.

No-Skid Decks In areas where people will be walking, the deck is treated with a special product to make the deck “no-skid.” That way, it isn’t slippery, even when wet.

Harness Sailing harnesses are designed to clip onto the boat and keep a sailor onboard even if the boat takes a huge wave or the sailor slips. The harness is the staple of offshore safety. 

Jack Lines Jack lines are temporary lines secured on the deck where sailors can attach their harnesses. 

Safety Rails Many boats also have extra rails and handholds located in spots where sailors might work on deck, like around the base of the mast.

At the bow of the sailboat, you’ll find her ground tackle.

Bowsprit The bowsprit is the spar that extends from the deck forward of the bow. They’re used on sailboats to gain more sail area since getting the sail farther forward means you can fit a bigger sail. Some have just a spar, while others have a bow platform that is part of the deck.

Ground Tackle  The generic word for the anchor, chain, and all the equipment needed to use it.

Anchor The anchor is “the hook” that digs into the seabed and keeps the boat in the same place. Anchors are safety devices since they allow you to stop in shallow water. But they also provide access to areas with no marinas since you can anchor offshore and go in on your dinghy. 

Windlass A winch that pulls up the anchor and chain. They can be manual, with a handle, or electric, with a button.

Anchor Rode The generic name for the anchor line. It can be a chain or rope.

Snubber A short length of rope that attaches to the chain to secure it to the boat. 

Cleat A horn-shaped piece of deck hardware used to secure a line or rope. 

Dorade A large vent opening on the deck of a boat which is designed to let air in but not water.

Hatch Hatches are upward-facing windows that you can open to increase ventilation in the cabin.

Locker A generic term for a cabinet or compartment on a boat. 

Going Aloft – Basic Boat Parts of a Sailing Rig

The rig of a boat is the mast and all of its associated parts. If you’re wondering about the many different kinds of rigs that are out there, check out our rundown on sailing terms . There you’ll find definitions for boats with just one mast or multiple masts, like sloop rig and what a boat with two sails in front might be called. It’s a cutter, if you’re wondering.

Spar A generic name for a mast, boom, or any other long pole used to hold a sail. It can be wood or metal or vertical or horizontal. 

Mast A vertical spar upon which a sail is hoisted.

Boom A horizontal pole that holds a sail and gives it shape. 

Standing Rigging The wires or rope that holds the mast upright. 

Stay Standing rigging that goes fore to aft. The head stay runs from the masthead to the bow, and the backstay runs from the masthead to the stern.

Shroud Standing rigging that goes to the sides of the boat. From the masthead to each side runs a cap shroud. Some masts also have intermediate and lower shrouds.

Running Rigging All lines that are used for sail handling are called running rigging. 

Halyard A halyard hoists a sail to the top. Each halyard is named for the sail it hoists, i.e., main halyard, jib halyard, spinnaker halyard.

Sheet The sheet controls the sail. If you ease the sheet, the sail is loosened. If you winch the sheet in, it is tightened. Like all running rigging, each sheet is named for the sail it controls, i.e., main sheet, jib sheet, etc.

Traveler If a sail has a boom, the traveler can be used to adjust it from side to side. The sheet is attached to the traveler. Most main sail travelers are located near or in the cockpit.

Gooseneck Fitting The articulating attachment that holds a boom on a mast.

Topping Lift A line that holds the rear end of a boom up. It runs from the masthead to the boom. 

Vang A control line pulls the boom down and puts pressure on the sail to keep it flatter. Large boats may have hydraulic or solid vangs.

Blocks The rest of the world would call this a pulley, but sailors call it a block.

Fairleads Deck organizers that keep the lines tidy and running in the direction they should go on deck.

Furler Wraps the sail around the stay so that it doesn’t not have to be raised and lowered each time. Instead, you pull on the sheet and the sail unrolls or “unfurls.”

On Deck – Back of Sailboat

On most boats, the cockpit is located at the back. 

Cockpit The main operations center and party central on a sailboat. This is where the skipper sits at the helm, and the linesmen control the sheets.

Coaming The cockpit is protected from waves and splashes by the coaming, the tall walls that enclose it. It also makes the cockpit safe since you are unlikely to get swept overboard from here.

Lazarette The main storage locker in the cockpit.

Helm The station where the skipper steers the boat from. 

Tiller If a boat doesn’t have a wheel, it will have a tiller. A tiller is just a handle connected to the rudder, and the skipper pushes or pulls it to steer. Even if a boat has a wheel, it probably has an emergency tiller in case the steering system breaks.

Winch Winches provide a mechanical advantage to make it easier to haul in lines. In the cockpit, all the sheets have winches.

Rope Clutch A clutch locks a rope in place so it can be taken off a winch, even when loaded.

Jammer A jammer does the same as a clutch, but it’s a simpler device found on smaller boats.

Weathervane Steering A weathervane is used to steer the boat like an autopilot but uses wind direction and mechanical linkages. As a result, they use no power and never complain about their workload. They mount on the stern of the boat and are controlled by simple lines to the cockpit. Windvanes are often referred to by their brand name, i.e., Monitor or Hydrovane

Davits Arms on the back of the boat that lift the dinghy or tender. 

Swim Platform A flat area on the transom that allows you easy access in and out of the water. A standard feature on newer boats but not on older ones that just had long swim ladders.

Catamaran Sailboat Parts Explained

For the most part, the components of a catamaran share the same terms and labels that they would on a monohull. Cats often have a few extra features with other names, however.

Hulls A catamaran is made with two hulls connected together. Each hull has an interior, just like a monohull sailboat does. The cabins and heads are usually located in the hulls, and sometimes the galley is also down below.

Owner’s Version A catamaran layout that is made for private owners. Usually, one hull will be dedicated to the owner’s stateroom with a private door, a huge head with a walk-in shower, and a large berth.

Charter Version It has more staterooms and heads than an owner’s version does. Usually, a charter cat has at least two staterooms and heads in each hull.

Bridge Deck The deck connects the two hulls, which usually has the salon and cockpit. If the design is “galley up,” the galley will be on the bridgedeck with the salon.

Cockpit Just like on a monohull, the cockpit is the operations center. But catamarans have huge cockpits, and there is usually a large outdoor dining table and entertainment area as well.

Forward Cockpit Some designs have lounge seating forward of the salon on the bridgedeck.

Flybridge Some designs have the main helm mounted on top of the salon on an upper level. It’s almost the catamaran equivalent of a center cockpit.

Trampolines Forward of the salon, the bridge deck stops, and a trampoline connects the hulls over the water. This is a great place to hang out, but it’s an integral safety feature for a catamaran. The trampolines allow any water to immediately drain away, not weighing the boat down on the bow. This prevents a pitchpole when a boat capsizes by tipping forward into the water.

Cross Beam and Dolphin Striker Since there is no center bow to mount the head stay and foresail, catamarans use a cross beam that connects the hull. A piece of rigging keeps this in place, and it’s called the dolphin striker. No dolphins were hurt in the rigging of these boats, however.

Anchor Bridle Instead of a single snubber line on the anchor, catamarans use a wide bridle that connects each hull bow to the anchor line.

Parts of a Sail Boat FAQs

What are parts of a sailboat called.

Sailing is a challenging hobby, and one reason it’s so difficult for beginners is because every part of a sailboat has its own name. From each wire and rope to every piece of deck hardware, a beginner must learn the basics before they can even start.

What is the front part of a sailboat called?

The front part of a sailboat is called the bow. Many boats also have a spar extending forward of the hull, called the bowsprit.

What are the 5 basic parts of every sailboat?

Every sailboat has at least these five parts, but most boats have many more.  Hull Keel Rudder Rigging Sails

Matt has been boating around Florida for over 25 years in everything from small powerboats to large cruising catamarans. He currently lives aboard a 38-foot Cabo Rico sailboat with his wife Lucy and adventure dog Chelsea. Together, they cruise between winters in The Bahamas and summers in the Chesapeake Bay.

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10 Best Small Sailboats (Under 20 Feet)

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

December 28, 2023

Compact, easy to trailer, simple to rig, easy to maintain and manage, and affordable, the best small boats all have one thing in common: they offer loads of fun while out there on the water.

So whether you're on a budget or just looking for something that can offer ultimate daytime rides without compromising on safety, aesthetic sensibilities, alternate propulsion, and speed, the best small sailboats under 20 feet should be the only way to go.

Let's be brutally honest here; not everyone needs a 30-foot sailboat to go sailing. They come with lots of features such as electronics, entertainment, refrigeration, bunks, a galley, and even a head. But do you really need all these features to go sailing? We don't think so.

All you need to go sailing is a hull, a mast, rudder, and, of course, a sail. And whether you refer to them as daysailers, trailerable sailboats , a weekender sailboat, or pocket cruisers, there's no better way to enjoy the thrills of coastal sailing than on small sailboats.

There are a wide range of small boats measuring less than 20 feet available in the market. These are hot products in the market given that they offer immense thrills out on the sea without the commitment required to cruise on a 30-footer. A small sailboat will not only give you the feel of every breeze but will also give you the chance to instantly sense every change in trim.

In this article, we'll highlight 10 best small sailboats under 20 feet . Most models in this list are time-tested, easy to rig, simple to sail, extremely fun, and perfect either for solo sailing or for sailing with friends and family. So if you've been looking for a list of some of the best small sailboats , you've come to the right place.

So without further ado, let's roll on.

Table of contents

{{boat-info="/boats/hunter-15"}}

The Marlow-Hunter 15 is not only easy to own since it's one of the most affordable small sailboats but also lots of fun to sail. This is a safe and versatile sailboat for everyone. Whether you're sailing with your family or as a greenhorn, you'll love the Hunter 15 thanks to its raised boom, high freeboard, and sturdy FRP construction.

With high sides, a comfortable wide beam, a contoured self-bailing cockpit, and fiberglass construction, the Hunter 15 is certainly designed with the novice sailor in mind. This is why you can do a lot with this boat without falling out, breaking it, or capsizing. Its contoured self-baiting cockpit will enable you to find a fast exit while its wide beam will keep it steady and stable no matter what jibes or weight shifts happen along the way.

This is a small sailboat that can hold up to four people. It's designed to give you a confident feeling and peace of mind even when sailing with kids. It's easy to trailer, easy to rig, and easy to launch. With a price tag of about $10k, the Hunter 15 is a fun, affordable, and versatile boat that is perfect for both seasoned sailors and novices. It's a low-maintenance sailboat that can be great for teaching kids a thing or two about sailing.

Catalina 16.5

{{boat-info="/boats/catalina-16-5"}}

Catalina Yachts are synonymous with bigger boats but they have some great and smaller boats too such as Catalina 16.5. This is one of the best small sailboats that are ideal for family outings given that it has a big and roomy cockpit, as well as a large storage locker. Designed with a hand-laminated fiberglass sloop, the Catalina 16.5 is versatile and is available in two designs: the centerboard model and the keel model.

The centerboard model is designed with a powerful sailplane that remains balanced as a result of the fiberglass centerboard, the stable hull form, and the rudder. It also comes with a tiller extension, adjustable hiking straps, and adjustable overhaul. It's important to note that these are standard equipment in the two models.

As far as the keel model is concerned, this is designed with a high aspect keel as the cast lead and is attached with stainless steel keel bolts, which makes this model perfect for mooring or docking whenever it's not in use. In essence, the centerboard model is perfect if you'll store it in a trailer while the keel model can remain at the dock.

All in all, the Catalina 16.5 is one of the best small sailboats that you can get your hands on for as low as $10,000. This is certainly a great example of exactly what a daysailer should be.

{{boat-info="/boats/hobie-16"}}

There's no list of small, trailerable, and fun sailboats that can be complete without the inclusion of the classic Hobie 16. This is a durable design that has been around and diligently graced various waters across the globe since its debut way back in 1969 in Southern California. In addition to being durable, the Hobie 16 is trailerable, great for speed, weighs only 320 pounds, great for four people, and more importantly, offers absolute fun.

With a remarkable figure of over 100,000 launched since its debut, it's easy to see that the Hobie 16 is highly popular. Part of this popularity comes from its asymmetric fiberglass-and-foam sandwiched hulls that include kick-up rudders. This is a great feature that allows it to sail up to the beach.

For about $12,000, the Hobie 16 will provide you with endless fun throughout the summer. It's equipped with a spinnaker, trailer, and douse kit. This is a high-speed sailboat that has a large trampoline to offer lots of space not just for your feet but also to hand off the double trapezes.

Montgomery 17

{{boat-info="/boats/montgomery-17"}}

Popularly known as the M-17, The Montgomery 17 was designed by Lyle C. Hess in conjunction with Jerry Montgomery in Ontario, California for Montgomery Boats. Designed either with keel or centerboard models, the M-17 is more stable than most boats of her size. This boat is small enough to be trailered but also capable of doing moderate offshore passages.

This small sailboat is designed with a masthead and toe rail that can fit most foresails. It also has enough space for two thanks to its cuddly cabin, which offers a sitting headroom, a portable toilet, a pair of bunks, a DC power, and optional shore, and a proper amount of storage. That's not all; you can easily raise the deck-stepped mast using a four-part tackle.

In terms of performance, the M-17 is one of the giant-killers out there. This is a small sailboat that will excel in the extremes and make its way past larger boats such as the Catalina 22. It glides along beautifully and is a dog in light air, though it won't sail against a 25-knot wind, which can be frustrating. Other than that, the Montgomery 17 is a great small sailboat that can be yours for about $14,000.

Norseboat 17.5

{{boat-info="/boats/norseboat-17-5"}}

As a versatile daysailer, Norseboat 17.5 follows a simple concept of seaworthiness and high-performance. This small sailboat perfectly combines both contemporary construction and traditional aesthetics. Imagine a sailboat that calls itself the "Swiss Army Knife of Boats!" Well, this is a boat that can sail and row equally well.

Whether you're stepping down from a larger cruiser or stepping up from a sea kayak, the unique Norseboat 17.5 is balanced, attractive, and salty. It has curvaceous wishbone gaff, it is saucy, and has a stubby bow-sprit that makes it attractive to the eyes. In addition to her beauty, the Norseboat 17.5 offers an energy-pinching challenge, is self-sufficient, and offers more than what you're used to.

This is a small, lightweight, low-maintenance sailboat that offers a ticket to both sailing and rowing adventures all at the same time. At about 400 pounds, it's very portable and highly convenient. Its mainsails may look small but you'll be surprised at how the boat is responsive to it. With a $12,500 price tag, this is a good small sailboat that offers you the versatility to either row or sail.

{{boat-info="/boats/sage-marine-sage-17"}}

If you've been looking for a pocket cruiser that inspires confidence, especially in shoal water, look no further than the Sage 17. Designed by Jerry Montgomery in 2009, the Sage 17 is stable and should heel to 10 degrees while stiffening up. And because you want to feel secure while sailing, stability is an integral feature of the Sage 17.

This is a sailboat that will remain solid and stable no matter which part of the boat you stand on. Its cabin roof and the balsa-cored carbon-fiber deck are so strong that the mast doesn't require any form of compression post. The self-draining cockpit is long enough and capable of sleeping at 6 feet 6 inches.

The Sage 17 may be expensive at $25k but is a true sea warrior that's worth look at. This is a boat that will not only serve you right but will also turn heads at the marina.    

{{boat-info="/boats/laserperformance-laser-sb3"}}

Having been chosen as the overall boat of the year for 2008 by the Sailing World Magazine, the Laser SB3 is one of the coolest boats you'll ever encounter. When sailing upwind, this boat will lock into the groove while its absolute simplicity is legendary. In terms of downwind sailing, having this boat will be a dream come true while it remains incredibly stable even at extraordinary speed.

Since its debut in 2004, the Laser SB3 has surged in terms of popularity thanks to the fact that it's designed to put all the controls at your fingertips. In addition to a lightweight mast, its T- bulb keel can be hauled and launched painlessly. For about $18,000, the Laser SB3 ushers you into the world of sports sailing and what it feels to own and use a sports boat.

{{boat-info="/boats/fareast-18"}}

As a manufacturer, Fareast is a Chinese boat manufacturer that has been around for less than two decades. But even with that, the Fareast 18 remains a very capable cruiser-racer that will take your sailing to the next level. In addition to its good looks, this boat comes with a retractable keel with ballast bulb, a powerful rig, and an enclosed cabin.

Its narrow design with a closed stern may be rare in sailboats of this size, but that's not a problem for the Fareast 18. This design not only emphasizes speed but also makes it a lot easier to maintain this boat. Perfect for about 6 people, this boat punches above its weight. It's, however, designed to be rigged and launched by one person.

This is a relatively affordable boat. It's agile, safe, well-thought-out, well built, and very sporty.

{{boat-info="/boats/chuck-paine-paine-14"}}

If you're in the market looking for a small sailboat that offers contemporary performance with classic beauty, the Paine 14 should be your ideal option. Named after its famous designer, Chuck Paine, this boat is intentionally designed after the classic Herreshoff 12.5 both in terms of dimensions and features.

This is a lightweight design that brings forth modern fin keel and spade rudder, which makes it agile, stable, and faster. The Paine 14 is built using cold-molded wood or west epoxy. It has varnished gunnels and transoms to give it an old-time charm. To make it somehow modern, this boat is designed with a carbon mast and a modern way to attach sails so that it's ready to sail in minutes.

You can rest easy knowing that the Paine 14 will not only serve you well but will turn heads while out there.

{{boat-info="/boats/wd-schock-lido-14"}}

Many sailors will attest that their first sailing outing was in a Lido 14. This is a classic sailboat that has been around for over four decades and still proves to be a perfect match to modern small boats, especially for those still learning the ropes of sailing.

With seating for six people, the Lido 14 can be perfect for solo sailing , single-handed sailing, or if you're planning for shorthanded sailing. While new Lido 14 boats are no longer available, go for a functional used Lido 14 and you'll never regret this decision. It will serve you well and your kids will probably fall in love with sailing if Lido 14 becomes their main vessel during weekends or long summer holidays.

Bottom Line

There you have it; these are some of the best small sailboats you can go for. While there are endless small sailboats in the market, the above-described sailboat will serve you right and make you enjoy the wind.

Choose the perfect sailboat, invest in it, and go out there and have some good fun!

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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• For Sale/Wanted
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• Miscellaneous
• DIY Boat Yards
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• Cabin Cruisers
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• Cabin Trunk

Building a Cabin Trunk.

If there is one thing worse than a cabin that leaks, it is one that looks like a box.

While it is worth taking pains over the caulking of joints to make them watertight it is just as important to take care over the shape and looks

The structure also needs to be strong enough to withstand whatever the elements throw at it and to take the weight of crew members walking on top.

• Cabin-to-deck joints

Corner posts.

• Have Your say

Oh, I'm just remembered, there is one type that is the worst of all and that's a nasty, fiberglass cuddy dripping with condensation.

Cabin to Deck joints

There are two methods of fixing the cabin-trunk to the deck .

• Inside the carlines , in which case the callings will need to be shaped or canted to conform to any tumblehome.
• On top of the deck, fixed to a sill which is through bolted to the carline .

There are many variations on both methods.

The first method will make for a neater finish on the inside but will be more prone to leaks and the carlings will require shaping before fitting.

The second method should make for a dryer interior and be simpler to construct.

A simple box shaped trunk is simplest form to construct.

However, that box will ruin the look of even the most elegant hull.

A well shaped cabin-trunk will on the other hand enhance the appearance of any hull shape.

Much of the shaping is needed to counter the optical illusions created by building on a shapely hull and deck.

Sides which are vertically built on a sloping deck will appear to slant outwards.

So the sides need to be built slanting inwards towards the top, just a few degrees is all that is needed to offset this optical illusion.

Many boats however are built with a more pronounced tumblehome.

A flat horizontal roof will appear to be hogged, and look hump backed.

So a small amount of sheer curve is needed and the top will look much better if it slopes slightly up towards the stern.

And a curved top to the cabin will not only look good but drain water away much more quickly than a flat top.

The sides also need to curve in a horizontal plane to reflect the curve of the hole not only for looks but to allow for usable side decks.

Some of the most elegantly beautiful designs have only very subtitle amounts of sheer, tumblehome and curve.

It does make for extra work but the finished look will be very much worth the effort.

The sides, front and back of deck-houses were traditionally built from solid planks of wood.

This is an excellent method particularly if you want a bright natural finish.

However, it does have its drawbacks.

First there is the problem of finding suitable full length planks of sufficient width.

Then, there is the problem of bending the plank to fit the fore and aft curve of the carlines .

Because there is the possibility of warping any wide planks will require vertical stiffeners or drifts run through the width of the plank.

When I came to renovate Mignonne's cabin-trunk, the solid mahogany sides had not only bowed but there were one or two longitudinal splits.

The splits were treated by forcing a gap filling glue into them with a fine blade fortunately they were not wide enough to need filling.

To correct the bowing I through bolted 2inch by 1 inch decorative uprights on the inside with thinner slats on the outsides.

Panels can be made up using tongue and groove or splined, but the joints will have to be perfect and well glued to avoid the danger of splitting.

Another method which has successfully been used to build trunk sides is strip planking.

This can look rather good if done properly.

However, getting it right is rather complicated, and the port-light openings cannot be cut until afterwords.

Plywood is the easiest material with which to build and can be most satisfactory.

Just remember that if you spend a lot of time and effort building that cabin you want it to last, so use Marine grade ply and seal the edges especially around any openings such as portlights.

The thickness of the ply you can use will depend on the amount of bending you need to do.

Trying to bend plywood thicker than ½ inch over a short distance will be difficult and it will induce stresses which could result in damage.

Laminating the sides from  ¼ inch ply will be much easier and result in a stronger panel.

The next problem is how to join the corners.

It is possible to make a 'box' with simple butted corners but this wont be very strong, any exposed end grain will be prone to rot and it will look cheap.

The preferred method is with a nicely radiused, rabbeted corner post.

The best posts are made from a solid piece but this can be tricky as you will have to allow for any desired tumblehome.

It will be much easier to laminate them up from two separate pieces.

The lower end of the post will have to fit the carling and beam and be beveled to allow for the tumblehome.

The top will need shaping to conform to the slope of the top.

Leave some extra material on the outer radius so that it can be fared to the sides after construction.

 Roof.

The cabin-top is another area where the traditional cambered look combines looks withfunction.

But again a certain amount of subtlety and compromise is required.

Too much camber while it will allow more standing headroom below will tend to look too much like a barrel.

And any force pushing down, such as foot traffic will have a tendency to force the cabin sides outwards. This is why church builders had to resort to the flying buttress.

So, a gentle curve well supported at the ends and with supporting beams in-between.

It is unlikely that you will have access to sufficient lumber with the grain running in the correct curve so, forget about sawn beams.

Well made laminated beams can be an extremely attractive overhead feature.

And a cabin-top laminated up from layers of ¼ inch marine grade plywood will have great multi-directional strength.

Mignonne's main cabin had originally been covered with tongue and groove boarding which, had then been covers with canvas.

As the boards, once they were cleaned up looked rather attractive on the inside I retained them but covered the whole on top with painted plywood.

On the aft part which, I had to rebuild I again used tongue and groove as the first layer, for its decorative effect then laminated plywood on top.

Whether you are modifying, restoring or building from scratch, do take pains over the design of the superstructure, dog house or whatever you build on top.

An ugly, boxy, dog kennel stuck on top of an elegant hull will draw everyone's eye including the owners.

I have seen too many that I would love to take a chain saw to.

A well designed cabin will enhance the beauty of any wooden boat and enhance the owner's pride.

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Small Leak in Cabin Roof

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I have a Catalina 22 Capri with a minor problem - slow leak in the cabin roof , around the bolts holding the winches, tracks, etc. I have removed the cap nut from inside the cabin and injected a small amount of 100% silicone caulk but a few leeks remain. Any suggestions? Thank you!  

Klaatu, hopefully that just a minor problem. Deck leaks are common, but should be attended to quickly and effectively. Luckily, it's not hard, and it's not rocket science. Here is an article from a contributor here at SailNet (Mainesail) with everything you'll need to know. CLICK HERE Good luck!  

We ought to have a Mainesail appreciation day. You know, give him the key to the city, free drinks, things like that. Regards  

Kaatu - Leaks around deck hardware are a common problem. However, you should not try to fix the leak by plugging/filling/caulking the leak from the inside of the cabin. If you do, it is likely water will continue to leak in from the deck, but instead of making it's way into the cabin it will go into the wood core of the deck and cause rot. The proper fix is to remove the hardware and re-bed it on the deck using epoxy, 3M 5200 or some other equivalent sealing adhesive. Leave the hardware in the cabin unsealed so that if you develop a leak in the future you'll know about it and can fix it before it causes core rot. Don Casey's book entitled "This Old Boat" provides detailed instructions and advice.  

Silicone caulk has no place on a boat. Over time it is permeable to water, and leaves a film on the fiberglass that is almost impossible to remove. You need to remove all the hardware, remove all silicone caulk (and residue), and re-bed properly. Don Casey's Complete Guide to Sailboat Maintenence is an excellent reference, and one that any sailor should own. I have never read This Old Boat, but I would assume it is similar. While this is a small leak now, do not take it lightly. This can quickly turn into a MUCH bigger problem (rotten core) it not fixed quickly and properly.  

Leak in Cabin Roof Thank you for your advice, I plan to remove the hardware and repair from above - as suggested. I have a month to wait for Spring launch. Klaatu  

Silicone caulk has no place on a boat other than bedding certain types of ports and covering the ends of cotter pins. 5200 has almost as few uses on a boat IMHO. It has far too tenacious a grip and is a pain to unbond if you ever have to remove the hardware in question. Sealing leaks from beneath is a really, really bad idea, since that can trap water inside the hole and lead to serious problems like the core penetration and delamination. Generally, deck fittings on a sailboat should only be sealed from the outside, so that any leaks are fairly apparent and visible on the inside. 3M 4200 is good, SikaFlex 291 is good, butyl tape is good, but it depends on what you're sealing.  

This post has been deleted

captxtina said: Hi-- I just noticed a water droplet on the handrail above our heads that hangs from the cabin ceiling, which means water is getting in from the deck where there's hardware. The obvious culprit is the sister handrail that sits on the deck outside, mirroring the one on the inside of the cabin. However, it could be some other hardware, and the water is simply running down to the next exit point inside the cabin. My question is this: My first thought was: Well, I'll have to re-bed those handrails. But what about the cabin liner? It would be great to remove that so I can get as close to the fiberglass and really investigate where the leak is coming from. However, in order to do that, I have to removed the portlights. (And I already replaced the portlights this winter, so I'm not doing it again -- I wish I had known about the slow leak beforehand). But! I tend to be too meticulous in my maintenance so maybe it's not necessary to involve the liner. Is is okay if I simply remove both handrails, epoxy and caulk (with LifeCaulk or Sikaflex), and be done with it? Thanks! Click to expand...

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VESSEL REVIEW | Sinichka – Electric commuter boats designed for Russia’s Moskva River

A series of three new electric monohull commuter ferries have already begun operational sailings on the Moskva River in the Russian capital Moscow.

Built by Russian shipyard Emperium, sister vessels Sinichka , Filka , and Presnya – all named after rivers in Moscow – are being operated by the Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development (Moscow Deptrans). They are the first units of a planned fleet of 20 vessels that will serve the capital city and other nearby communities. The new ferry system will be the water transport system to be operated on the Moskva River in 16 years.

Each vessel has a welded aluminium hull, an LOA of 21 metres, a beam of 6.2 metres, a draught of only 1.4 metres, a displacement of 40 tonnes, and capacity for 80 passengers plus two crewmembers. Seating is available for 42 passengers on each ferry, and the main cabins are also fitted with USB charging ports, wifi connectivity, tables, toilets, and space for bicycles and scooters. The cabin layout can be rearranged to allow the operator to adjust the distances between the seats and to install armrests of varying widths.

An open upper deck is also accessible to passengers and is the only area on each ferry where smoking is allowed.

The ferries are all of modular construction with each ferry’s wheelhouse, main cabin, and other structural elements being built as complete, separate components. This enables the ferries to be easily dismantled for transport to anywhere in Russia by rail and then quickly re-assembled within seven days.

The ferries are also ice-capable. Recently completed operational trials on the Moskva showed that the vessels can also easily navigate under mild winter conditions with broken surface ice, though year-round operations are planned for the entire fleet.

The ferries are each fitted with 500kWh lithium iron phosphate battery packs that supply power to two 134kW motors. This configuration can deliver a maximum speed of 11.8 knots, a cruising speed of just under 10 knots, and a range of 150 kilometres.

Emperium said the transfer of rotation of electric motors to the propeller is carried out by direct drive. As a propulsion installation, a pulling rotary propeller-steering column with double screws is used. The installation of double pulling screws, with similar power, allows an operator to increase the efficiency of the propulsion system to deliver a slightly higher speed or to reduce energy consumption. This arrangement also provides the ferries with enhanced manoeuvrability necessary for navigating in close quarters.

The batteries themselves have projected service lives of 10 to 12 years and are fitted with safety features such as built-in fire extinguishers and gas vents. Quick-disconnect features allow the batteries to be easily removed for replacement or maintenance.

Some of our readers have expressed disquiet at our publication of reviews and articles describing new vessels from Russia. We at Baird Maritime can understand and sympathise with those views. However, despite the behaviour of the country’s leaders, we believe that the maritime world needs to learn of the latest developments in vessel design and construction there.

Click here to read other news stories, features, opinion articles, and vessel reviews as part of this month’s Passenger Vessel Week.

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Cruising the Moskva River: A short guide to boat trips in Russia’s capital

There’s hardly a better way to absorb Moscow’s atmosphere than on a ship sailing up and down the Moskva River. While complicated ticketing, loud music and chilling winds might dampen the anticipated fun, this checklist will help you to enjoy the scenic views and not fall into common tourist traps.

How to find the right boat?

There are plenty of boats and selecting the right one might be challenging. The size of the boat should be your main criteria.

Plenty of small boats cruise the Moskva River, and the most vivid one is this yellow Lay’s-branded boat. Everyone who has ever visited Moscow probably has seen it.

This option might leave a passenger disembarking partially deaf as the merciless Russian pop music blasts onboard. A free spirit, however, will find partying on such a vessel to be an unforgettable and authentic experience that’s almost a metaphor for life in modern Russia: too loud, and sometimes too welcoming. Tickets start at $13 (800 rubles) per person.

Bigger boats offer smoother sailing and tend to attract foreign visitors because of their distinct Soviet aura. Indeed, many of the older vessels must have seen better days. They are still afloat, however, and getting aboard is a unique ‘cultural’ experience. Sometimes the crew might offer lunch or dinner to passengers, but this option must be purchased with the ticket. Here is one such  option  offering dinner for $24 (1,490 rubles).

If you want to travel in style, consider Flotilla Radisson. These large, modern vessels are quite posh, with a cozy restaurant and an attentive crew at your service. Even though the selection of wines and food is modest, these vessels are still much better than other boats.

Surprisingly, the luxurious boats are priced rather modestly, and a single ticket goes for $17-$32 (1,100-2,000 rubles); also expect a reasonable restaurant bill on top.

How to buy tickets?

Women holding photos of ships promise huge discounts to “the young and beautiful,” and give personal invitations for river tours. They sound and look nice, but there’s a small catch: their ticket prices are usually more than those purchased online.

“We bought tickets from street hawkers for 900 rubles each, only to later discover that the other passengers bought their tickets twice as cheap!”  wrote  (in Russian) a disappointed Rostislav on a travel company website.

Nevertheless, buying from street hawkers has one considerable advantage: they personally escort you to the vessel so that you don’t waste time looking for the boat on your own.

Prices start at $13 (800 rubles) for one ride, and for an additional $6.5 (400 rubles) you can purchase an unlimited number of tours on the same boat on any given day.

Flotilla Radisson has official ticket offices at Gorky Park and Hotel Ukraine, but they’re often sold out.

Buying online is an option that might save some cash. Websites such as  this   offer considerable discounts for tickets sold online. On a busy Friday night an online purchase might be the only chance to get a ticket on a Flotilla Radisson boat.

This  website  (in Russian) offers multiple options for short river cruises in and around the city center, including offbeat options such as ‘disco cruises’ and ‘children cruises.’ This other  website  sells tickets online, but doesn’t have an English version. The interface is intuitive, however.

Buying tickets online has its bad points, however. The most common is confusing which pier you should go to and missing your river tour.

“I once bought tickets online to save with the discount that the website offered,” said Igor Shvarkin from Moscow. “The pier was initially marked as ‘Park Kultury,’ but when I arrived it wasn’t easy to find my boat because there were too many there. My guests had to walk a considerable distance before I finally found the vessel that accepted my tickets purchased online,” said the man.

There are two main boarding piers in the city center:  Hotel Ukraine  and  Park Kultury . Always take note of your particular berth when buying tickets online.

Where to sit onboard?

Even on a warm day, the headwind might be chilly for passengers on deck. Make sure you have warm clothes, or that the crew has blankets ready upon request.

The glass-encased hold makes the tour much more comfortable, but not at the expense of having an enjoyable experience.

Getting off the boat requires preparation as well. Ideally, you should be able to disembark on any pier along the way. In reality, passengers never know where the boat’s captain will make the next stop. Street hawkers often tell passengers in advance where they’ll be able to disembark. If you buy tickets online then you’ll have to research it yourself.

There’s a chance that the captain won’t make any stops at all and will take you back to where the tour began, which is the case with Flotilla Radisson. The safest option is to automatically expect that you’ll return to the pier where you started.

If using any of Russia Beyond's content, partly or in full, always provide an active hyperlink to the original material.

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The Comprehensive Guide to Moscow Nightlife

• Posted on April 14, 2018 July 26, 2018
• by Kings of Russia
• 8 minute read

Moscow’s nightlife scene is thriving, and arguably one of the best the world has to offer – top-notch Russian women, coupled with a never-ending list of venues, Moscow has a little bit of something for everyone’s taste. Moscow nightlife is not for the faint of heart – and if you’re coming, you better be ready to go Friday and Saturday night into the early morning.

This comprehensive guide to Moscow nightlife will run you through the nuts and bolts of all you need to know about Moscow’s nightclubs and give you a solid blueprint to operate with during your time in Moscow.

What you need to know before hitting Moscow nightclubs

Prices in moscow nightlife.

Before you head out and start gaming all the sexy Moscow girls , we have to talk money first. Bring plenty because in Moscow you can never bring a big enough bankroll. Remember, you’re the man so making a fuzz of not paying a drink here or there will not go down well.

Luckily most Moscow clubs don’t do cover fees. Some electro clubs will charge 15-20$, depending on their lineup. There’s the odd club with a minimum spend of 20-30$, which you’ll drop on drinks easily. By and large, you can scope out the venues for free, which is a big plus.

Bottle service is a great deal in Moscow. At top-tier clubs, it starts at 1,000$. That’ll go a long way with premium vodka at 250$, especially if you have three or four guys chipping in. Not to mention that it’s a massive status boost for getting girls, especially at high-end clubs.

Without bottle service, you should estimate a budget of 100-150$ per night. That is if you drink a lot and hit the top clubs with the hottest girls. Scale down for less alcohol and more basic places.

Dress code & Face control

Door policy in Moscow is called “face control” and it’s always the guy behind the two gorillas that gives the green light if you’re in or out.

In Moscow nightlife there’s only one rule when it comes to dress codes:

You can never be underdressed.

People dress A LOT sharper than, say, in the US and that goes for both sexes. For high-end clubs, you definitely want to roll with a sharp blazer and a pocket square, not to mention dress shoes in tip-top condition. Those are the minimum requirements to level the playing field vis a vis with other sharply dressed guys that have a lot more money than you do. Unless you plan to hit explicit electro or underground clubs, which have their own dress code, you are always on the money with that style.

Getting in a Moscow club isn’t as hard as it seems: dress sharp, speak English at the door and look like you’re in the mood to spend all that money that you supposedly have (even if you don’t). That will open almost any door in Moscow’s nightlife for you.

Types of Moscow Nightclubs

In Moscow there are four types of clubs with the accompanying female clientele:

High-end clubs:

These are often crossovers between restaurants and clubs with lots of tables and very little space to dance. Heavy accent on bottle service most of the time but you can work the room from the bar as well. The hottest and most expensive girls in Moscow go there. Bring deep pockets and lots of self-confidence and you have a shot at swooping them.

Regular Mid-level clubs:

They probably resemble more what you’re used to in a nightclub: big dancefloors, stages and more space to roam around. Bottle service will make you stand out more but you can also do well without. You can find all types of girls but most will be in the 6-8 range. Your targets should always be the girls drinking and ideally in pairs. It’s impossible not to swoop if your game is at least half-decent.

Basic clubs/dive bars:

Usually spots with very cheap booze and lax face control. If you’re dressed too sharp and speak no Russian, you might attract the wrong type of attention so be vigilant. If you know the local scene you can swoop 6s and 7s almost at will. Usually students and girls from the suburbs.

Electro/underground clubs:

Home of the hipsters and creatives. Parties there don’t mean meeting girls and getting drunk but doing pills and spacing out to the music. Lots of attractive hipster girls if that is your niche. That is its own scene with a different dress code as well.

What time to go out in Moscow

Moscow nightlife starts late. Don’t show up at bars and preparty spots before 11pm because you’ll feel fairly alone. Peak time is between 1am and 3am. That is also the time of Moscow nightlife’s biggest nuisance: concerts by artists you won’t know and who only distract your girls from drinking and being gamed. From 4am to 6am the regular clubs are emptying out but plenty of people, women included, still hit up one of the many afterparty clubs. Those last till well past 10am.

As far as days go: Fridays and Saturdays are peak days. Thursday is an OK day, all other days are fairly weak and you have to know the right venues.

The Ultimate Moscow Nightclub List

Short disclaimer: I didn’t add basic and electro clubs since you’re coming for the girls, not for the music. This list will give you more options than you’ll be able to handle on a weekend.

Preparty – start here at 11PM

Classic restaurant club with lots of tables and a smallish bar and dancefloor. Come here between 11pm and 12am when the concert is over and they start with the actual party. Even early in the night tons of sexy women here, who lean slightly older (25 and up).

The second floor of the Ugolek restaurant is an extra bar with dim lights and house music tunes. Very small and cozy with a slight hipster vibe but generally draws plenty of attractive women too. A bit slower vibe than Valenok.

Very cool, spread-out venue that has a modern library theme. Not always full with people but when it is, it’s brimming with top-tier women. Slow vibe here and better for grabbing contacts and moving on.

High-end: err on the side of being too early rather than too late because of face control.

Secret Room

Probably the top venue at the moment in Moscow . Very small but wildly popular club, which is crammed with tables but always packed. They do parties on Thursdays and Sundays as well. This club has a hip-hop/high-end theme, meaning most girls are gold diggers, IG models, and tattooed hip hop chicks. Very unfavorable logistics because there is almost no room no move inside the club but the party vibe makes it worth it. Strict face control.

Close to Secret Room and with a much more favorable and spacious three-part layout. This place attracts very hot women but also lots of ball busters and fakes that will leave you blue-balled. Come early because after 4am it starts getting empty fast. Electronic music.

A slightly kitsch restaurant club that plays Russian pop and is full of gold diggers, semi-pros, and men from the Caucasus republics. Thursday is the strongest night but that dynamic might be changing since Secret Room opened its doors. You can swoop here but it will be a struggle.

Mid-level: your sweet spot in terms of ease and attractiveness of girls for an average budget.

Started going downwards in 2018 due to lax face control and this might get even worse with the World Cup. In terms of layout one of the best Moscow nightclubs because it’s very big and bottle service gives you a good edge here. Still attracts lots of cute girls with loose morals but plenty of provincial girls (and guys) as well. Swooping is fairly easy here.

I haven’t been at this place in over a year, ever since it started becoming ground zero for drunken teenagers. Similar clientele to Icon but less chic, younger and drunker. Decent mainstream music that attracts plenty of tourists. Girls are easy here as well.

Sort of a Coyote Ugly (the real one in Moscow sucks) with party music and lots of drunken people licking each others’ faces. Very entertaining with the right amount of alcohol and very easy to pull in there. Don’t think about staying sober in here, you’ll hate it.

Artel Bessonitsa/Shakti Terrace

Electronic music club that is sort of a high-end place with an underground clientele and located between the teenager clubs Icon and Gipsy. Very good music but a bit all over the place with their vibe and their branding. You can swoop almost any type of girl here from high-heeled beauty to coked-up hipsters, provided they’re not too sober.

Afterparty: if by 5AM  you haven’t pulled, it’s time to move here.

Best afterparty spot in terms of trying to get girls. Pretty much no one is sober in there and savage gorilla game goes a long way. Lots of very hot and slutty-looking girls but it can be hard to tell apart who is looking for dick and who is just on drugs but not interested. If by 9-10am you haven’t pulled, it is probably better to surrender.

The hipster alternative for afterparties, where even more drugs are in play. Plenty of attractive girls there but you have to know how to work this type of club. A nicer atmosphere and better music but if you’re desperate to pull, you’ll probably go to Miks.

Weekday jokers: if you’re on the hunt for some sexy Russian girls during the week, here are two tips to make your life easier.

Chesterfield

Ladies night on Wednesdays means this place gets pretty packed with smashed teenagers and 6s and 7s. Don’t pull out the three-piece suit in here because it’s a “simpler” crowd. Definitely your best shot on Wednesdays.

If you haven’t pulled at Chesterfield, you can throw a Hail Mary and hit up Garage’s Black Music Wednesdays. Fills up really late but there are some cute Black Music groupies in here. Very small club. Thursday through Saturday they do afterparties and you have an excellent shot and swooping girls that are probably high.

Shishas Sferum

This is pretty much your only shot on Mondays and Tuesdays because they offer free or almost free drinks for women. A fairly low-class club where you should watch your drinks. As always the case in Moscow, there will be cute girls here on any day of the week but it’s nowhere near as good as on the weekend.

In a nutshell, that is all you need to know about where to meet Moscow girls in nightlife. There are tons of options, and it all depends on what best fits your style, based on the type of girls that you’re looking for.

Related Topics

• moscow girls
• moscow nightlife

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Cabin Top Winches

• Thread starter jorgefife
• Start date May 9, 2010
• Hunter Owner Forums
• The Cherubini Hunters

I know I asked a similar question before, but that was how to bed the 2 winches; that I have done, by filling in the old holes with epoxy to a mayo consistency, and then proceeding with 4200 That's done, I did it just right Now my question: On the cabin top I have a winch (broken self tailer) which I want to remove, and install 2 matching winches on each side of the cabin top, just as you go in; do I put bolts all the way though, or does that circle have a kind of hard area that will allow me to simply screw the bolts in? Of course I will have to close the existing holes, but do I go all the way through? Should I use large washers, or use a teak plate I don't remember who, but someone sent me pictures once, but for the life of me cannot remember who I hop someone reads this As for the other 2 rectangular areas, next to the mast, I presume it is the same, on those 2 spaces I intend using turning blocks, or maybe organizers Last question: I also want to install a rope clutch next to the winch mentioned above; same story? If you are not inclined to repply, please read my sob story under :Hatch Knobs", and maybe that will move you to once again help Enjoy the day, and good health to all Jorge  

sandpiper10471

My H33 also had the two raised areas. From recoring the deck, I discovered the core of the deck was balsa but the raised areas have plywood added on top of the balsa sandwich. I added organizers and line stoppers wherever convenient and the lack of plywood did not lead to any problems. I through bolted everything but because the inside liner is suspended, I drilled 1" access holes in it to get at the nuts and washers.  

I too am doing research on adding a winch to my salon roof. I have fit the winch to the raised pad, drilled down 3/4", and tapped the holes 1/4-20. The winch base was fit and is really secure but once I am sure that the winch is exactily where I want it, I will remove it, add West System 10 epoxy to the entire base, including screw holes, and secure it back in place. Clean up the residual epoxy, let dry and I should be left with a well fitted and secure winch. I'll let you know how it works.  

Thank you dwgiffordWould love to see some pics of the interior of your boat!!!  

dwgifford Did you evr do the winches on the salon top? How did they come? When you can, please send some photos of the interior Thanks Jorge  

DianaOfBurlington

Mounting winches to deck/coachroof The ONLY way to mount these is with through-bolts. A winch in use is constantly under shear load-- the pull of the line wants to shear off the bolts and the winch would then fly forwards towards the sail or the spar. There is also usually a small tensile load-- the winch might want to go upwards as well. Sheet-metal/self-tapping screws (all threads) and wood screws (having a shank) are not made for shear loads; they are made for tensile loads. Only a machine screw (mostly thread) or a bolt (mostly shank) will suffice for this. There is a lot of debate about whether or not to bed the backing plates to the underside of the coachroof for hardware. Theoretically you should have the hardware bedded from the top to keep water out. I say, what can it hurt? --and bedding the backing plates in 5200 from underside is only going to add stiffness to that region of the deck (especially for lifelines stanchions!) AND provide a thicker stratum for resisting the shear load (the machine screws' shanks will get to lean on something thicker, spreading their load over a larger area). Non-bedded backing plates would not help the shear load; and this sort of thing is what 5200 excels at. I am NOT a fan of bedding winches down with 4200 or 5200. I would prefer a relatively soft (40 to 80-durometer) rubber gasket, cut slightly bigger than the diameter of the winch's base, and torquing the mounting bolts up just enough to dent it. (This is how my Whale through-deck pump is mounted and that doesn't leak. Same with the toilet. I'm sort of sold on rubber gaskets for replaceable things now.) And I am NOT a fan of silicone AT ALL. Silicone requires constant compression to work as a gasket. The usual working back-and-forth of a winch in alternating between its shear load and its relaxed state will mean you've got to constantly keep the bolts tightened. Silicone WILL NOT adhere to anything-- it is NOT an adhesive and provides NO strength. It is merely a space-filler. Don't expect it to hold out water forever nor to hold anything down. Don't be afraid to make the backing plates large either. Only weight considerations should restrain you. I've seen many fastidious people making exact-fit backing plates, tracing the piece of hardware onto plywood, cutting it out like a jigsaw piece, etc. There is no point to that. A Lewmar 6 or 8 winch (as on my boat), about 4" in diameter, can have a 6"- or 8"-diameter backing plate. And the exact shape of it doesn't matter-- make it fit the available space. I have some backing plates of G10 impregnated fiberglass. It is expensive and kills every so-called sharpened tool you use on it. (I do not exaggerate. You WILL need new spade bitts.) I also have plywood I saturated with WEST epoxy and stuck on with 5200. In fact my Forespar Marelon seacocks are mounted through the hull on 3/8" plywood backing plates... and it's not even 'marine' plywood, just whatever I got out of the scrap bins at CY. The epoxy and 5200 make it work. Do it right and don't worry about a bit of overkill.  

cabin top winch I did get a winch, Lewmar #10, mounted on the raised pad on my starboard salon roof. I agree that the best way would be to thru-bolt the winch bolts but I chose another way. Like I posted before, I drilled and tapped the raised portion as far as possible without going thru the roof, inserted nutserts for the proper winch bolts, and then epoxied them into the holes. I then added a 3/4" piece of starboard shaped to fit, and routered some groves in the bottom, and fastened it all together with West System 10 epoxy. Then the winch was threaded thru this and using Locktite blue thread locker my system is complete. This also helped to align my main halyard past a vent another owner installed thru my salon roof. Although I will not be competing in any races and will continue to reef "early" I believe my arrangement will perform to my needs. I am now doing the research into "lazy jack" systems and a new mainsail track and I believe I will be able to single hand my boat from the cockpit and have the ability to douse the main withoug getting up on the roof in rough seas. Good luck and good sailing.  

Dear dwgifford, I saw your posting, seems like a very good idea I eventually installed 2 winches: strange enough, the starboard side had wood, steel, FG when I drilled, but not the port side: it went through the roof. But I will install a plate of stainless on the roof, to make it look nice This last week, a day before 4th. July, the tide was so high that my boat was almost at street level Far too much water and waves, got scared, and besides my friend, who has a similar H33, was away I was tempted to go on my own, but reason ( ?) prevailed and I stayed put Will let you know when I finally get my sailing wings! Regards to all Good to hear from you Ed; I hope all goes well with you I will think of something silly to ask just to see you repply And Sam Lust: I got a panel for you, I hope it is adequate; will send you some pictures (hope you see this posting)  

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