30 ft hunter sailboat weight

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Revisiting the Cherubini Hunter 30

CeCe Stoldt

If you grew up sailing in Florida in the 1970s and 80s as I did, you probably spent many hours day dreaming and looking at Hunters, or, if you were fortunate, sailing one. Those memories might not exist at all were it not for bit of luck and perseverance. While the U.S. economy was caught in a global recession, the Hunter plant in Florida was still churning out sailboat hulls by the dozens.

You didnt have to spend a lot of time on these boats to realize that they werent the paragon of craftsmanship. The laminated floor and furniture seemed dated even back then, and the rough glasswork betrayed the boats mission: to persuade the average Joe that even he could still afford a great escape. By the mid-1980s, it seemed as if every third sailboat entering the Biscayne Bays waterborne bacchanalia, the Columbus Day Regatta, was a Hunter. (Escape, as any good boatbuilder knows, can take many forms.)

While Hunters marketing genius is enviable, the true achievement in its early boats like the John Cherubini-designed Hunter 30, which we review in the June issue of Practical Sailor is that theyve managed to endure at all. The Hunter 30 was launched on the wake of the 1973 oil embargo, and the design survived through nine years of stagflation and rising unemployment.

Fortunately, for Hunter and other builders who prevailed in this era, significant improvements in fiberglass construction methods coincided with the need for lower production costs. Laminate schedules were getting thinner, and the higher fiber-to-resin ratio was more economical. Selling sailboats could still be lucrative, but profitability in the mid-price ranges often required a few corners to be cut.

Almost any sailing forum on the Internet has its resident boat snob who compares fixing up and old production boat from the 70s to putting lipstick on a pig. Certainly, the Hunter 30 has some inherent flaws, but none are irredeemable. Just as a vase cracked during firing can hold more charm than the perfect one, an old Hunter 30 can grow on you. The photos submitted by proud owners that accompany the June 2016 boat review are the clearest proof of this.

We stumbled on this inspiring treasure trove by chance. The handwritten surveys in our dusty decades-old file on the Hunter 30 were growing stale, so for this update on the Hunter 30 we turned to current owners for their impressions. A surprising number of owners responded with detailed answers to our questions, and though each had a few quibbles, the overall assessment of the Hunter 30 was overwhelmingly positive.

Of course, I found the tales of customized improvements to be intriguing, but what really moved me were the personal stories behind what might be considered a run-of-the-mill entry-level cruiser. One Hunter 30 had been passed down through two generations, another had sailed to the Caribbean and back, and another had served as an affordable home while its owner pursued a graduate degree.

Browsing the photos of the Hunter 30s featured in the June issue, I was reminded that a boats pedigree is a terrible gauge of a boats true worth. No, a Cherubini-designed Hunter-despite the exotic-sounding name-is not a Morris, a Hinckley, or a Swan. But in the hands of an owner who appreciates his good fortune, a modest Hunter 30 is worth more than the finest megayacht.

See the June 2016 issue for the complete review of the Hunter 30. For an indepth look at more than a dozen classic, entry-level cruising boats that won’t break the bank, you can purchase our two-volume e-book “Entry Level Racer Cruisers” at our online bookstore .

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HUNTER 30 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of HUNTER 30. Built by Hunter Marine (USA) and designed by John Cherubini, the boat was first built in 1973. It has a hull type of Fin with rudder on skeg and LOA is 9.27. Its sail area/displacement ratio 15.99. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Yanmar, runs on Diesel.

HUNTER 30 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about HUNTER 30 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the hunter 30.

HUNTER 30 was designed by John Cherubini.

Who builds HUNTER 30?

HUNTER 30 is built by Hunter Marine (USA).

When was HUNTER 30 first built?

HUNTER 30 was first built in 1973.

How long is HUNTER 30?

HUNTER 30 is 7.85 m in length.

What is mast height on HUNTER 30?

HUNTER 30 has a mast height of 10.42 m.

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• Sailboat Guide

Hunter 30T is a 30 ′ 1 ″ / 9.2 m monohull sailboat built by Hunter Marine between 1991 and 1994.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Updated version of HUNTER 30-2. ‘T’ shaped cockpit.

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How much does the mast weigh???

• Thread starter KandD
• Start date Apr 20, 2010
• Hunter Owner Forums

The rigging replacement question got me thinking... We're hauling/shipping the boat in about a month and I'm looking for ways to minimize the cost. Can I leave the port/starboard stays on the mast, block the step to keep it from shooting forward, and use the jib hallyard to lower the mast aft, with some strong backs to maybe catch it (by that I mean walk it aft)?  

I do not think you can handle the mast on a 40' sailboat without a crane. This mast must weight several hundred pounds. Most of the trailer sailors can have problems with their short sticks on a 26' boat. The cost of replacement is not worth the risk.  

Don´t make it without a crane. I do this every year and with a mastcrane. The weight is more than 250kg and the momentum of the mast with your idea is enormous. You will need at least two strong people to carry tha mast on the gound. Crash and disaster is the result. I have done it "your way" with mast on 20 feet boats and that is ok. Use a crane and fix a rope under the top spreader and lift. Good luck  

Andreas7699

Dont try it.  

Not That Much But try lifting a 2X4 strailght up from the bottom two or three feet. It is the moment of the part of the mast you can not reach that will bite you in the ass. I have seen folks use the halyards from two neighboring boats to lift a mast if you have a couple of freinds on either side of you it may be worth a try.  

Rick Webb said: But try lifting a 2X4 strailght up from the bottom two or three feet. It is the moment of the part of the mast you can not reach that will bite you in the ass. I have seen folks use the halyards from two neighboring boats to lift a mast if you have a couple of freinds on either side of you it may be worth a try. Click to expand

I assumed that would be the response. How much should I budget for this?  

KandD said: I assumed that would be the response. How much should I budget for this? Click to expand

Assuming that you are going to loosen the rigging, I would think that they may charge for the equipment/labor charge. I would think that Vinny's estimate would be good. It should be included in the charge to pull the boat and put it on the trailer, but everyone does these things different.  

Works Fine Vinney So long as the boats are the same size or better a little larger. Each of them put the main halyard around the spreader and raise the mast up then real carefuly an inch or so at a time one at a time lower the mast into the step. Up is easy down require finese. It aint rocket surgery but it does require 5 or 6 guys. Jack showed up after it was done. I can't be the only one who has seen this done.  

Dan Johnson

Rick... When I was a dealer, I saw the consequences when a guy lost control of the mast-lowering on his water-ballast Hunter 26. It ruined the mast and sent him to the hospital. And it had the side struts for bottom support and alignment. A 40 foot boat's mast is tremendously different from a trailer boat's. Don't forget there's the weight of all the halyards, wiring, and masthead hardware that must be considered. A yard near me uses a crane on his travel-lift to set and pull masts. Even he has trouble with the oscillations of the larger ones. It's just not worth DIY on that size boat.  

Rick Webb said: So long as the boats are the same size or better a little larger. Each of them put the main halyard around the spreader and raise the mast up then real carefuly an inch or so at a time one at a time lower the mast into the step. Up is easy down require finese. It aint rocket surgery but it does require 5 or 6 guys. Jack showed up after it was done. I can't be the only one who has seen this done. Click to expand

It Was a 33.er The boat on one side was a 34' or 36' Columbia the boat on the other side was an Oday about a foot larger than the Columbia the boat we lowered and raised the mast on was a Yamaha 33. I was in college at the time and was there as extra muscle. The guys who did it had done it a number of times before it went real smooth I did not now enough to understand the complexity of the operation.  

All I can say is.. Don't even think about it without a crane! Yamaha 33...totally different animal and even then with lots of hands I wouldn't try it. Your mast is close to 4 times the diameter and who knows how many times the weight. I don't mean to sound like an alarmist but doing this without a crane is a recipe for a broken rig, trip to the hospital and damage to your boat and ones near it. One thing you can do to save $$ is to have all the turnbuckles freed up, cotter and clevis pins ready to pull, electrical wires disconnected and all the running rigging tied up against the mast and ready to come with the mast as it's pulled. That way you're only paying for the use of the crane an operator and maybe a yard worker or two for better part of an hour.  

Alex Dare; "electrical wires disconnected" [/quote said: They can not be disconnected until the mast is up a foot or so on this boat. But the rest is good prep. Click to expand

Definitely not. I tried it with a 26 and it was all that three people could to do get it up. 40 is out of the realm of sanity : ) !! I just shippped my 34 a couple months ago. One thing you can do to cut costs is to prep the mast yourself after you pay the yard to take it down. Take the shrouds and stays off, put them inside the boat, bundle it up/secure as necessary. Get some old carpet to protect your mast from the roller furling (if you have one, it's normal to leave those on during transit). I took industrial garbage bags and put them on the ends of my mast, then used duck tape to wrap them up. This keeps all of the lines from getting too much road dirt on them. You can also buy this packing wrap (movers use it for soft furniture like couches) and wrap the whole mast if you really want to protect every inch. I've found that most of the expense comes from the prep more than taking the mast down, as long as you are there to de-rig it yourself.  

I'll disconnect the wires beforehand (PO installed access port). Can I leave the B&R rig on, and just disconnect the stays that hold the mast to the boat, or does it all have to come off? What about the halyards? Should I pull them out (I'll be replacing all the sheaves anyways) or just pull them until a stop knot hits where the base of the mast and coil the rest?  

I took my rigging off the mast (mine has B & R also), but left the rigging attached to the spreaders and coiled it up. I thought about doing what you are talking about, but it was going to take so long to wrap up the spreaders and shrouds that I decided it was quicker to just remove them and bundle the rigging by itself. Plus all of that stuff adds a lot of weight to the mast, which makes it harder to handle when loading/unloading. I doubt that a shipping company will transport your mast with the spreaders and rigging still on. Use tape to mark your shrouds and diagonals before you take it all apart. That will make it a lot quicker to put back together. I usually leave the halyards in, just secure them.  

If you are going to remove the halyards, be sure to replace them with fish lines. This will make it much easier to replace the halyards when you re-step the mast. This goes for the boom too. It can be very difficult to re-thread these lines from scratch.  

David in Sandusky

Mast thoughts Our marina unsteps any size of mast for $160. That includes detaching the stays, lifting the mast with their crane, and setting the mast and stays of a storage rack. Many yacht clubs and some marinas have a mast crane you can use for free. When we were at Mentor Harbor Marina, we used their crane to take down our mast every year since they could not lift a boat with the mast up. The two of us could do the job on our 27 footer. I've taken down the mast on a 40 footer with a crane and 4 guys. I suppose 3 could to it with good organization. I'd suggest you find out what's available in terms of cranes and services at several nearby marinas. Also, talk to other owners about what they do when they need to take down the stick.  

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Hunter horizon 30

The hunter horizon 30 is a 29.99ft fractional sloop designed by david thomas and built in fiberglass by hunter boats ltd. (uk) between 1993 and 1998., 52 units have been built..

The Hunter horizon 30 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is originally very small. There is a short water supply range.

Hunter horizon 30 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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