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Bruce Bingham Flicka 20 Plans

Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by mustafaumu sarac , Dec 22, 2017 .

mustafaumu sarac Senior Member

Hello there, At good old times ,may be 40 years ago , Turkish Yacht Magazine published Bruce Bingham Flicka 20 Plans. Here is the pdf article. I need your help , Rudder magazine published the Flicka 20 ferrocement construction articles - 6 or 8- starting from 1972 september issue. Can anyone send the scans in list or out of list or sell me the magazines or scans or photocopies. My email: mustafaumutsarac at gmail.com Thank you, Mustafa Umut Sarac Istanbul  

Attached Files:

Flicka 20 (1).pdf

PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

I can think of little worse than making a well burdened Flicka more so, in ferro cement.  

Flicka 20 designed for ferrocement , many been built than fiber used for mass production.  

I'm not sure where you're getting your information, but the extreme vast majority of Flicka plans were GRP built and only a handful of known ferro builds. Ferro was more time consuming and more costly, compairtivly and the rather burdensome lines of Flicka were made more so, to accommodate this alternative building process. Simply put and 20' long concrete yacht isn't a good idea. No Flicka's were production built as a ferro build, for the same reasons.  

Angélique aka Angel (only by name)

Now * for sale on eBay - 2 × - 1974 Ferro-Cement boat build book by Bruce Bingham . . . . - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Ferro-Cement : Design, Techniques, and Application by Bruce Bingham (1974, Hardcover) Brand New: asking US $ 96.49 * ​ ​ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Ferro-cement: Design, Techniques, and Application by Bingham Concrete Boat Yacht Pre Owned: asking US $ 18.00 * - (spare link ) ​ There are also some other Ferro Cement boat build books offered for sale on eBay right now, although varying in asking prices when doubles show up, like above, and in the example below . . . . - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Ferrocement Yacht Construction by Chris Cairncross: Pre Owned asking US $ 9.90 * ​ Ferrocement Yacht Construction by Chris Cairncross: Pre Owned ‘‘Excellent’’ asking US $ 24.95 * ​ Ferrocement Yacht Construction by Chris Cairncross: Brand New asking US $ 79.49 * ​ * status at the time of posting this message​  

Here's an in 1973 started, but till today never finished, Flicka 20 ferro-cement build project , located in Branson, Missouri, USA. (ZIP code 65616) ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ This unfinished project is since a long time for sale , asking US $ 1,000, which means the project seller could still have the plans, if so; then maybe good photos of these Flicka 20 ferro-cement plans are available on request . . ? ​ ​ ​  

Angelique, You are an treasure. I will buy these books after new year holiday. I will put the scans in to libgen.io. There are many boat plans over there. I am thinking to translate above books in to turkish also. My first boat will be GRP Yrvind 420 and than I find comfort , I will try to build flicka. Thank you very much.  

Boat Design Net Moderator Moderator

Before scanning/translating if thinking of doing so to share please check the copyright and be sure you don't violate the author/publisher's copyright first. Thanks.  

This Cairncross book was written at the height of the ferro craze in the early 70's and is currently viewable online in a few locations. I consider the Jay Benford book far superior on the subject, but this is a good start. I think "Tiller Publications" still retains control over Jay's book, but do not think Cairncross is as protected. Bruce Bingham is a well known author, published many times over his career, so likely also is still protected. It's still a good idea to check about this protection, though.  

Steve W Senior Member

The Flicka has more than enough displacement for ferro construction and many were built in this medium, nothing wrong with it. I have personally seen two ferro versions, the first being a beautifully built example, built at Span Farm boatyard in Auckland, NZ by a guy from Oregon and subsequently sailed home to Portland. The second not so beautifully built in Minneapolis. Interestingly enough I just bought an old copy of Nautical Quarterly magazine which had a story about the Flicka and was showing the article to our parts guy at work (just this afternoon) who has had a Pacific Seacraft Flicka for many years and while the article gives a displacement of 4500 lbs he says his is actually around 6500lbs, very easy to accomplish in Ferro. I don't know if folks built them from plans in one off solid glass but if so it would be no less work than in ferro to achieve the same quality of finish as the one I saw in Auckland. I have personally built a larger version, the Fred Bingham designed 24 ft Allegra hull for a client using the C flex method in solid glass as well as a Hartley RORC 39 ferro sailboat so I do know a bit about both mediums. Steve.  

My understanding (again) is the lines and offsets for a Flicka are different between the original and the ferro version, with obvious increases in volume and dimensions on the ferro version. Yes, this puppy does have the volume for this build method, but it was (the origional) a very burdened design, made much more so with this modification to the plans. I have a design much like Flicka, though less wetted surface, more refined appendages, etc., etc., etc. and it's about 26% lighter (3,700 LBS) than a GRP Flicka, yet still carries a 140 degrees of righting arm and a hefty for it's length displacement (315 D/L). The stock Flicka (GRP) has a D/L of around 505 and I can only imagine what a ferro Flicka would be 600? Really?  

My understanding is a little different than yours Par in that i believe that Flicka was originally designed to be built in Ferro and later built as a production boat by Northstar and then Pacific Seacraft. I am not aware of any being built by amateurs in glass but I could be wrong. Having built in ferro and various one off glass methods i don't agree that ferro is any more labor intensive. I do however agree that a 20ft concrete boat is not a great idea but then again I'm not a fan of a 6000lb boat in any material on an 18ft w/l.  

Flicka was originally designed as a set of plans for home building, with a couple hundred plan sets sold, before a partially completed plug was done by Bruce, eventually sold to Nor'star Marine for completion. Yeah, I miswrote the order of the design evolution. The ferro version was first, but never built by anyone other than the amateurs that bought the origional plans. I don't know when the design was redone to remove 40% of it's origional displacement, but this was done, because the ferro build idea, didn't take off like was expected. My understanding (which could be incorrect) is they were one off GRP's with a single skin and some amateur builds in C-Flex, though I've heard of molded veneer and carvel versions as well. I also understand no ferro Flicka's were production built. Almost all were GRP, with the first having a wooden deck and cabin structure, though all the rest where pulled off molds of this wooden decked version (Pacific Seacraft). Are there ferro versions, yep, sure are, but these puppies are pretty rare as completed and actually sailed boats. They also have half the capacity of the GRP versions and they need 8 knots just to get away from a leeward dock. In any case I think you and I are in agreement about the results of the concept. I've also heard that some of the original (ferro) home built's were over 9,000 lbs. displacement on an 18' LWL craft. Wow . . .  

I'll don't think the OP is industriously gathering the asked for info, since the over a week ago in post #5 linked on topic Bruce Bingham books are still for sale, even the one only askin US $ 18 (in Türk lirası ₺ ) , for what looks to be a comprehensive book by the designer of the boat of interest, about the asked for build method, which also looks to be in a nice and usable condition. P.S. -- An expansion of the message related to PM questions by the OP, answer partly posted here to be possibly reviewed by other forum members, and / or supplemented or corrected where needed. -- International Priority Shipping costs from the seller's location in Murrieta, CA, US to Istanbul in Turkey would be somewhere around US $ 27 (in Türk lirası ₺ ) I'll guess. Maybe this could be cheaper too, best contact the seller for this through the eBay ad . However, I don't know whether Turkish taxes and / or import duties are due for items like this one. Best ask info for this at a local office in Istanbul which handles such cases.  

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Are you sure about the lines being redrawn to reduce the displacement? I only ask because any competent ferro builder should be able to build to a 6500lb displacement without gobbling up all the payload. Now if you build the deck and cabin in ferro like the unfinished one shown above all bets are off. The biggest problem with overly heavy ferro boats stems from too much plaster over the steel armature. Too many builders did not spend enough time compacting the mesh and fairing the armature prior to plastering day and then the plastering team tried to fair with plaster. As with all method it comes down to workmanship and ferro was sold as a method that anyone could build with whereas I contend that any method that uses materials with no self fairing properties such as ferro and one off solid grp actually require a high level of skill if you want to keep the weight under control.  

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Sailboat Plans 30-40ft

Bruce Roberts sailboat designs

Boat plans 30 - 40 ft  .

This section of Bruce Roberts sailboat designs and boat plans cover the following vessels in the range of 30 to 40 foot. The Roberts, Classic, Henry Morgan, Offshore, Power Cat, PCF 36/40, and Canoe Stern designs. Boat building plans using steel, aluminium, fiberglass wood/epoxy, dependant on the design, are available. Information and prices are on each individual design page.

Study Plan Packages contain all the sheets #1 from the actual plans. Sail Plans and the various accommodation layouts pertaining to the design are shown on these sheets. There may be anywhere from two to eight #1 sheets which are all to scale and which measure between one meter and two and a half meters long each. They are intended as a more in-depth overview of the design in which you are interested.

Material Lists for the basic materials required to build the hull, deck and superstructure are included in the study plan package to help you with your budgeting. Where Fibreglass is mentioned as a material this means Balsa sandwich / Foam sandwich, Single skin or C-Flex. Most steel plans can be adapted to aluminium construction. Both moulded ply and strip plank can be used in conjunction with the wood epoxy saturation method. Sail and rig details are also shown on the study plan sets.

As the Study Plan Packages include the basic measurements in scale for the accommodation layouts, you can customize the layouts to suit your needs if what is presented is not exactly to your liking.

The link to download the Study Plan Packages is emailed to your email address and generally within 24 hours, The link to the Full Plan Sets is also generally emailed within 24. All study plans and full plan sets are downloadable in .pdf format for you to have printed at a nearby print shop. The study and full plan sets are available on CD's on request with postage cost depends on country.

To View drawings , photos, information and prices of the design that interests you just click on that design.

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Pram Dinghy Boat Plan

Roberts Pram Dinghy This Pram dinghy can be built in fiberglass or plywood. The pictures sho..

Classic 31 Boat Plan

Roberts Classic 31 This is an earlier design that some traditionalists may find appealing. It may..

Roberts 310 Boat Plan

Roberts 310 This design may be built with either a regular trunk cabin or a pilot house. It is al..

Henry Morgan 32 Boat Plan

Roberts Henry Morgan 32 This is an earlier design that traditionalists may find appealing. It is ..

Roberts 34 Boat Plan

Roberts 34 This is an earlier design that still enjoys a great amount of popularity. It has been ..

Canoe Stern 341 Boat Plan

Roberts Canoe Stern 341 Designed by Graham Shannon this is for those of you that are looking for ..

Roberts 345 Boat Plan

Roberts 345 Originally this was designed for lightweight frameless multi-chine steel construction..

Roberts 35 Boat Plan

Roberts 35 This is a classic modern design that has been built as a production boat in many parts..

PCF 36-40 (Pacific Coast Fisherman) Boat Plan

Roberts PCF 36-40 (Pacific Coast Fisherman) This design may be built as a motor sailer for family..

Roberts 36 Boat Plan

Roberts 36 This design is a well proven world cruiser as many are currently sailing in different ..

Roberts 370 Boat Plan

Roberts 370 Such has been the response to this design that plans for it's construction are availa..

Offshore 38 Boat Plan

Roberts Offshore 38 Full plans for this design are available for building in round bilge Fibergla..

Power Catamaran 39 Boat Plan

Roberts Power Catamaran 39 These catamarans were designed to be built using the fibreglass panel ..

Roberts 39 Boat Plan

Roberts 39 This design is available only in multi-chine hull form, sloop or, with the addition of..

Roberts 392 Boat Plan

Roberts 392 This design is a companion to the Roberts 39 which until now had only been available ..

Roberts 40 Boat Plan

Roberts 40 This design comes with either a centre cockpit or a pilot house layout. There is adequ..

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• Sailboat Guide

Flicka 20 is a 24 ′ 0 ″ / 7.3 m monohull sailboat designed by Bruce Bingham and built by Westerly Marine and Pacific Seacraft between 1974 and 1999.

• 16 / 30 Clear Lake Shores, TX, US 1982 Flicka 20 $17,900 USD View
• 17 / 30 Clear Lake Shores, TX, US 1982 Flicka 20 $17,900 USD View
• 18 / 30 Clear Lake Shores, TX, US 1982 Flicka 20 $17,900 USD View
• 19 / 30 Clear Lake Shores, TX, US 1982 Flicka 20 $17,900 USD View
• 20 / 30 Clear Lake Shores, TX, US 1982 Flicka 20 $17,900 USD View
• 21 / 30 Clear Lake Shores, TX, US 1982 Flicka 20 $17,900 USD View
• 22 / 30 Clear Lake Shores, TX, US 1982 Flicka 20 $17,900 USD View
• 23 / 30 Clear Lake Shores, TX, US 1982 Flicka 20 $17,900 USD View
• 24 / 30 Clear Lake Shores, TX, US 1982 Flicka 20 $17,900 USD View
• 25 / 30 Clear Lake Shores, TX, US 1982 Flicka 20 $17,900 USD View
• 26 / 30 Clear Lake Shores, TX, US 1982 Flicka 20 $17,900 USD View
• 27 / 30 Clear Lake Shores, TX, US 1982 Flicka 20 $17,900 USD View
• 28 / 30 Clear Lake Shores, TX, US 1982 Flicka 20 $17,900 USD View
• 29 / 30 Clear Lake Shores, TX, US 1982 Flicka 20 $17,900 USD View
• 30 / 30 Clear Lake Shores, TX, US 1982 Flicka 20 $17,900 USD View

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

From BlueWaterBoats.org :

At the extreme of ‘go small, go simple’ is the little Flicka 20. At an incredibly small 20 feet, few other boats can claim proven blue water capabilities. Flicka has crossed the oceans of the world, weathered severe storms and survived groundings on reefs with little damage. Yet this pint sized world cruiser can be popped onto a trailer and taken home.

Designed by Bruce Bingham along the lines of the Newport workboats of the 19th century, the Flicka 20 was originally introduced to the home-build market in 1972 before reaching production, first by Nor’ Star and then by Pacific Seacraft.

If you can get over the lack of deck space and finding place to stow your tender, you’ll find a boat that’s essentially solid, seaworthy and with the interior space of a boat 6 feet longer. She’s large enough to live in, and being so small she’s incredibly easy to handle. She sails well despite her short length and heavy displacement. These are some of the reasons people rationalize buying the Flicka 20, but perhaps the real reason is her charm and character; this little boat has quite the cult following.

The first line drawings of the Flicka were published in RUDDER magazine in March 1972 but the origins of the Flicka go back to the 1950’s when Bruce Bingham made some sketches of two derelict wooden sailboats on a river just south of Wickford in Rhode Island. Bingham later learned that they were workboats that had been used since 1840 by the fishermen who sailed out to the stormy Block Island Sound to work the fishery there. These boats were known as Newport boats and had a reputation for being fast, seaworthy boats that would bring home their crew safely. Bingham liked the rugged character of the Newport boats and upon finding the line drawings in a book he started modifying the lines into a new design which became the Flicka 20. The design was originally aimed at the home build market and the length was kept at 20 feet to make it affordable.

In the September of 1972  RUDDER published the first of a six part article on building a Flicka from ferrocement, which showed further refinements to the lines and interior. Rumor has it that the first ferrocement Flicka was built at a boat show as a demonstration project to promote the construction method. The boat failed to catch on as ferrocement construction was expensive and a lot of work for a small boat.  However, over the next five-year period, 400 sets of plans were reported sold, most of these boats built from GRP but at least one using carvel planking.

In 1974 a Flicka plug was made by Bingham and Katy Burke and sold to Nor’ Star Marine in California. In 1975 Nor’ Star started producing solidly built GRP hulls but at this stage there was no mold for the deck and cabin trunk. By February 1976, Nor’ Star was producing a GRP deck, cockpit and cabin truck. Their Flickas were either sold as kits or sub contracted to Westerley Marine for completion. This was a successful recipe which produced well constructed, high quality boats, regarded by many to be the most beautiful Flickas ever produced, with finely crafted and finished wood interiors. The winning partnership was brought to an end when Nor’ Star Marine closed down in 1977.

The Flicka was then sold to the then newly starting out Pacific Seacraft Corporation, who built a reputation for high quality construction and beautiful hand-crafted interiors. The builders at Pacific Seacraft modified the Flicka further by decreasing the radius of the cabin trunk crown and moving the deck hatch to the cabin top forward of the mast step.  By 1994 434 Flickas had been produced by Pacific Seacraft but in 2007 the company went bust. The brand name, molds and tools were bought at a bankruptcy auction by marine archaeologist Stephen Brodie and the company was moved to the East Coast where it was resurrected.

In 2001, the new Pacific Seacraft attempted to relaunch the Flicka design on the basis that they required an order of  four or five boats. Unfortunately, the order was not filled and the design was shelved. It is thought unlikely that the Flicka will ever be in production again but there are always Flickas out there for sale on the used boat market and for those who are interested in building their own, the plans and currently at least one hull and deck kit are apparently available now through Roy McBride at CKD boats in South Africa.

Configuration & Layout

The Flicka’s workboat heritage is clear to see in her strong sheer, bluff bow and low freeboard (for hauling nets). She has a full keel which draws 3 feet 3 inches and a simple transom-hung rudder. Her 1800 pounds of ballast is positioned well forward in the hull and is responsible for a large part of her total displacement.

In order to create a lot of space on a waterline of only 18 feet 2 inches the Flicka was designed with a relatively wide 8 feet beam, tall topsides, and a high coach roof. This design might suggest elements of a bathtub toy, however the Flicka is far from ugly and has an undeniable charm which attracts attention wherever she goes.

Most Flickas use a masthead sloop rig which is set from a short bowsprit. It’s a small rig with 106 square feet in the mainsail and two rows of reefing points, and a working jib of 137 square feet. Variations do exist including some that are fractionally rigged, while others employ a full cutter rig, though it is debateable whether there is any advantage in cutting up the sail area in an already small rig thereby creating extra windage from the extra halyard, sheeting lines and inner stay.  Several Flickas have been successfully converted to gaff and junk rigs and there is at least one yawl.

On deck you’ll find narrow side decks and relatively restricted access to the mast and foredeck. There’s little space to stow a tender, most owners tow theirs or stow it below. The cockpit is small and protected although comparatively large in comparison to the Flicka’s size. At 1 1/2″ the small cockpit drains have been an area of concern for some blue water sailors.

Bingham’s beamy hull allows for a capacious interior with 5 feet 11 inches of headroom and three full-sized berths. The interior is open-plan with no bulkhead separating the forepeak from the main cabin. Her fresh water supply is carried in a 20 gallon tank under the quarter berth.  The diesel fuel tank, which lives under the V-berth, holds 8 gallons, as does the holding tank. The standard inboard engine is the economical Yanmar 1GM10, a single-cylinder diesel of 9 horsepower.  Access to the inboard is afforded by a watertight hatch in the sole of the cockpit. With an inboard and enclosed head almost half the stowage space on the Flicka is lost and for that reason an outboard engine is the choice of many Flicka owners. With an outboard the fuel tank can be replaced with freshwater and a lot of extra space is created behind the companionway steps.

Construction

Being initally a home build boat you’ll find Flickas built to varying standards in a range of materials.

Pacific Seacraft Flickas were built in fiberglass, early hulls were hand laid in polyester resin while later hulls switched to osmosis resisting vinylester resin. The decks are fiberglass with a balsa core while areas with through deck hardware are cored in plywood. The interior is built from a single fiberglass pan which is bonded to the hull and lined with beautiful teak trim.

The mast is stepped in a stainless-steel tabernacle to allow easy removal for trailering as well as quick raising and lowering to avoid overhead obstacles.

Quality bronze fittings were used and the outboard chainplates were mounted through the hull with stainless steel backing plates. After 1980 enclosed heads with holding tanks became standard and the later models also come with custom bronze port lights, inboard engines and an excellent cruising rig by LeFiell.

Given the Flicka’s short waterline length, heavy displacement and small rig, it’s generally agreed she sails exceptionally well. Though most Flicka owners would agree that boat speed is not the number one priority, she is not a laggard by any means. According to Pacific Seacraft long passages of a 5-knot average are not uncommon. Owners report that she can easily sail 4 to 5 knots in the right conditions and can exceed 6 knots on a reach in winds of 20 knots or more. Her best point of sail is a beam to broad reach.

Like most heavy displacement boats, light air performance suffers. Many owners recommend the use of a drifter in 10 knots for a bit of extra go-go juice.

With her wineglass sections, short draft and 30% ballast ratio the boat is tender. Owners have also reported a tendency for weather helm. Tacking can be difficult in choppy conditions due to her tendency to pitch. Some owners have suggested that in certain weather conditions she can induce seasickness in even the hardiest of sailors but her motion is generally kind.

That aside, she is renowned for keeping her crew safe in a blow and she is a whole lot of fun to sail.

Buyer’s Notes

Flickas built by Pacific Seacraft are considered by many to be the one to go for due to their superior construction quality. Due to her solid construction and sensible design, the Flicka 20 has aged well. There have been no specific weaknesses that have come to light. Flickas tend to be well loved and in relatively good condition and have proven to be popular in the used boat market.

There is an active owner community. For further advice, boat listings and resources it is recommended buyers get in contact via the Flicka20.com website as well as the email discussion list on Yahoo Groups.

As of 2010 the asking prices for the boat is in the range of $10k – $50k USD depending on year and condition.

Links, References and Further Reading

» Flicka 20 information and resources at flicka20.com » Flicka 20 owners discussion group at Yahoo Groups » Flicka Review from Good Old Boat Magazine by John Vigor Nov/Dec 1999 » A Flicka Sailboat Story by Roy McBride » Flicka 20 info at CKD Boats , source of Flicka 20 Hull and Deck kits. » Twenty Small Sailboats to Take You Anywhere by John Vigor , (Ch13, p77-82) an in depth look at the Flicka 20. ISBN:978-0939837328

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Petrel 33: widen your horizons

Petrel 33 is the logical evolution of her smaller sister petrel 28 , with the task to expand the horizons of cruising activity for a 4-6 person crew, raising the bar of onboard comfort, keeping the boat size under the critical (for a homebuilder) size of 34 foot – 10 meters of overall length., a “new classic” looking cruiser, sturdy, with no frills and weird solutions, ready to let you sail with a decent speed and a very good comfort level both at anchor and sailing., the starting point is the very good sailing capabilities shown by the petrel 28, so i decided to develope this hull into a enlarged design, keeping a quite narrow hull for actual standard, prolonging the bow lines for a plumb stempost; i expect to have a similar behaviour of the proven 28footer, with a tender weather helm in every situation, a very soft and gentle wave riding attitude in a seaway, and a good acceleration coming out of the tacks, i expect a little bit more speed given the longer water length ; section are moderately full at the bow, maximum beam is around 60% of hull lenght , transom sections keep a moderate vee.

Stability calculations give us good parameters (see stability curve attached) , with a real large positive area stability, a 123° AVS (Angle of Vanishing Stability) with loaded boat, and a minimal negative area in the stability curves.

Rig and sailplan:

Sailplan is based on a 50% area split among mainsail and a furling jib ; we kept the upwind sailing area to a moderate value, avoiding “wannabe racers” temptations; a decent sized gennaker can be hoisted on the fixed bowsprit, an obvious choice given the fact that the new generation furlers are making this sails very easy to manage for cruising crews too, adding the pleasure of sailing downwind in light airs at a decent pace, a weather situation which is quite a pain in normal mainsail + jib configurations ; in roughest situation you can hoist a storm jib on a removable internal stay fitted on a high load chainplate leaning on the forward structural bulkhead ; rig is a classical 2 spreaders mast , spreaders are 15° swept, there is a structural backstay and no structural runners, lower shrouds are doubled., deck gear configuration features classical sturdy and manageable solutions, without too many frills : 4 self tailing winches to pull sheets, halyards and control lines, 2 stoppers array on cabin top panel, 2 tracks for jib cars, so that the jib can keep a decent shape even furled, a small track for the mainsail purchase, all the control lines are led to cockpit to avoid bow walks in “spicy” situations (plans will detail how to make bombproof fitting points for lifelines too);, boat will be powered by a diesel (20-30 hp) or electric (7 kw) inboard engine fitted with a saildrive or shaft-line transmission ; this will allow to keep a decent pace while motoring in zero wind situation, or to add a good booster to sail thrust if needed; i expect to reach a 6.5 knots boat speed at 2000 rpm with a 30 hp diesel engine., rudder and steering system:, rudder is a single blade semi-compensated one with tiller steering system ; there will be two options detailed on plans: spade rudder with ss steel shaft (this solution is depicted in rendered images), and an easier to build transom hung rudder., finkeel is naca profile keel made of welded steel plates, ; ballast is made by lead poured in the keel hollows ; keel is fitted on the hull with a web of bolts on solid hardwood floors, with nuts and high thickness ss steel counterplates under the cabin floorings; keel load is carefully distributed to avoid any local high stress area., interiors and on board living:, this area marks the main differences among this 34 footer and her smaller sister; higher hull topsides and two more meters of boat make a world of difference in terms of interiors and on board comfort; we have 6 regular berths, a comfortable galley and dinette area, a decent volume for on board systems and storage, all that you need to medium-long range sailing given the size of the boat ; both forward and after cabin are closed with a small door to gain a little bit more privacy ; cabin height is around 191 cm , cockpit is quite wide, and it’s designed to be comfortable for a crew of 6 while sailing with the heeled boat too ; transom area is protected by a sturdy wooden hinged structure that can be lowered when moored to be used as a transom platform. low sleek coamings protect the forward area of the cockpit , making the primary winch basement too; toerails and good sized areas among cabin flanks and hull sheerline make going to the bow a very safe operation even when boat is heeled and in rough conditions;, building system:, given the good amount of miles sailed by petrel 28  in every sea state with very good reliability, i keep a similar structure for this project, upgrading the scantlings to cope with higher stresses; so the boat structure is a grid of plywood bulkheads and frames linked by solid wood stringers and a mixed plywood-solid wood structure forming keel backbone and stempost ; hull planking is made by 12 mm plywood, with the radiused area made by two layers of 6 mm plywood panels , all glued to the underlying structural grid , in a reliable , sturdy and easy to build system called “radius chine” ; cabin , cockpit and deck surfaces are made by 10-12 mm plywood panels stiffened by a grid of secondary stringers, solid beams and other structural elements; the hull bottom is further stiffened by a number of solid wood floors , tightly spaced in the centerboat area, where they bear the finkeel loads. all critical areas and structural bondings are strengthened and stiffened by epoxy resin laminated glass fabric and epoxy resin liquid joinery and structural bondings. this building system is definitely suited to be realized by home builders or small boatyards, with a basic level of wood craftmanship , in a decent amount of time given the size of the boat., in my view this will allow a small boatyard to build and offer a highly customized top level sailboat keeping the final prize to a reasonable level, which is basically the main concern when it comes to manage a small boatyard..

Building plans and study plans: project Petrel 33 is is completed : now I’m starting the long and meticulous process of drawing the building plans; complete plans will be available approximately at the end of spring at this link , anyway if someone is so committed to long for an immediate start of construction he can purchase plans starting from now, a first batch of drawings (hull parts , assembly scaffold and hull structures) will be delivered within a week so that he can start building, the rest will follow as scheduled within half of June 2018; study plans and bill of materials will be available approximately within the end of April 2018 and will be downloadable form this page for free, as usual. Stay tuned !!!

Plans price: 900 € for paper sheets, 840€ for pdf format drawings, 350 € for cad engraving files (required if you want to cut all the plywood parts with cnc machinery, includes keel steel plating shapes) ; plans will be made approximately of 27 drawings and a 25 pages booklet with assembly sequence, tips and tricks, plans can be purchased here, a discount will be available for the first buyer ., petrel 33 specifications, hull length: 9,90 m (bowsprit included), overall length: 9,90 m, maximum beam: 3,03 m, prismatic coefficient: 0,53, sink rate: 170kg/cm, canoe body wet surface: 18 m2, draft at design displacement: 1,80 m, vacant ship diplacement: 3400 kg (all gear up, no water and food, no fuel), design displacement: 4050kg (crew of 4 + luggage, 50kg fuel, acqua 150 liters water, 100 kg extra), maximum displacement: 4500 kg (crew of 6 + luggage, full fuel, full water), ballast: 1300 kg: fixed keel, upwind sail area : 47,3 m2 , mainsail 23.2 m2, jib 24 m2, staysail on removable babystay: 6.5 m2, gennaker: 65 m2, mast height on dwl: m 13,3, performance parameters : sa/displ^0.66 = 19.5 , sa/wet surface = 2.6 (canoe body only), engine: diesel inboard with saildrive or shaftline transmission, 20-30 hp, 50 liters fuel tank , electric engine specifications on plans, accommodations: 6 fulls sized (1,90 m or more) berths, 1 v berth at bow, 1 double berth on transom , 2 galley berths, interiors: charting table with main electric panel, vhf radio and chart plotter area, galley with stove, sink and 30 liters fridge, enclosed toilet with wc sink and shower, central table in dinette with foldable wings. 190 cm height in the whole galley area., systems: 12 v and 220 v wiring scheme, fresh water and black water plumbing scheme, 200 or more liter freshwater tanks.; two service batteries and a engine dedicated battery, ce label : possible b6/c10 , data to be required as extra item..

• plans: 900€ for paper version, 840 for PDF version , 350 for CNC cutting files , can be purchased here

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• Sailboat Reviews

High-priced and truly unique, the Flicka has come close to reaching cult status. The Pacific Seacraft Flicka has perhaps received more

The Pacific Seacraft Flicka has perhaps received more “press” in the last few years than any other sailboat, certainly more than any production boat her “size.” Publicity does not necessarily make a boat good but it sure does create interest.

The Flicka is unique. There are no other production boats like her and only a few, such as the Falmouth Cutter and the Stone Horse, that offer the Flicka’s combination of traditional (or quasi-traditional) styling and heavy displacement in a small cruising yacht.

As the number of Flickas built by Pacific Seacraft passed 300 plus an indeterminate number built by amateurs early in its history, the boat seems to have become almost a cult object. High priced, distinctive, relatively rare but with wide geographical distribution and easily recognized, the Flicka invariably attracts attention and seems to stimulate extraordinary pride of ownership, The owners we talked to in preparing this evaluation all seem to be articulate, savvy, and involved. Moreover, they all show an uncommon fondness for their boats.

The Flicka was designed by Bruce Bingham, who was known as an illustrator, especially for his popular Sailor’s Sketchbook in Sail . Originally the Flicka was intended for amateur construction, the plans available from Bingham. She was designed to be a cruising boat within both the means and the level of skill of the builder who would start from scratch. Later the plans were picked up by a builder who produced the boat in kit form, a short lived operation, as was another attempt to produce the boat in ferro-cement.

Pacific Seacraft acquired the molds in 1978 and, with only minor changes, the boat as built by Seacraft remained the same until 1983, when a new deck mold was tooled to replace the worn-out original. A number of the modifications made early in 1983 are described throughout this evaluation.

Seacraft is a modest sized builder which has specialized in heavier displacement boats. The first boat in the Seacraft line was a 25-footer, followed by the 31′ Mariah, the Flicka, the Orion 27, and most recently the Crealock 37.

Seacraft has 22 dealers nationwide but concentrated on the coasts. Apparently the firm was able to survive the hard times that have befallen some if its brethren, giving credence to the axiom that to succeed a boatbuilder should produce an expensive boat to quality standards that appeals to a limited number of enthusiastic buyers.

The hull of the Flicka is “traditional” with slack bilges, a full keel, a sweeping shear accented with cove stripe and scrollwork, and bowsprit over a bobbed stem profile. In all, the Flicka is not an actual replica, but she does fulfill most sailors’ idea of what a pocket-sized classic boat should look like whether or not they are turned on to that idea.

The new price of the Flicka in the early ’80s ranged from about $13,000 for a basic kit for amateur completion to $36,000 for a “deluxe” version, with $25,000 a realistic figure for a well-appointed standard model. This was a high tab for a boat barely 18′ long on the waterline, 20′ on deck (LOD), and less than 24′ overall with appendages. With that high priced package you got a roomy, heavy and well-built boat that appealed to many sailors’ dreams if not to their pocketbooks.

Construction

The Flicka looks well built even to an untrained eye. And to the trained eye that impression is not deceiving. This is a boat that should be fully capable of making offshore passages. The basic question any buyer must ask is whether he is willing to pay (in money and performance) for this capability for the far less rigorous cruising on Lake Mead or Chesapeake Bay, to Catalina Island, or up and down the

The hull of the Flicka is a solid fiberglass laminate to a layup schedule adequate for most 30-footers of moderate displacement.

The deck has a plywood core rather than the balsa core common in production boats. In a boat of this displacement-length ratio the heavier plywood reduces stability but probably only marginally. Its virtue is that installation of add-on deck hardware is easier.

The hull-to-deck joint is done in a manner Practical Sailor strongly advocates: the hull has an inward flange on which the deck molding fits, bonded with a semi-rigid polyurethane adhesive/sealant and through bolted with 1/4″ stainless steel bolts on 4″ centers. These bolts also secure the standard aluminum rail extrusion; on boats with the optional teak caprail in lieu of the aluminum, the bolts pass through the fiberglass, and the caprail is then fastened with selftapping screws. As the rail sits atop a 1/2″ riser, water cannot puddle at the joint. We have heard no reports of any hull-to-deck joint failure in a production Flicka.

The interior of the boat uses a molded hull liner that is tab bonded to the hull. Given the ruggedness of the hull laminate, we doubt if this stiffening adds much to the hull itself, but it does make the relatively thin laminate of the liner feel solid under foot.

One of the more serious questions we have about the engineering of the Flicka is the under-deck mast support. Reflecting the quest for a completely open interior, the design incorporates a fiberglass/wood composite beam under the cabin house roof which transfers the mast stresses through the house sides to the underdeck bulkheads. Apparently these bulkheads are not bonded to the hull itself, only to the liner.

The builder defends this construction, claiming that it will support over 8,000 lbs (more than the Flicka’s displacement). In addition, beginning in 1983, a turned oak handhold post was added between the mast support beam and cabin sole, which further increases the strength of the mast support system.

Cabinetry, detailing, and finish are top quality for a production boat. However, keep in mind that the basic interior component is a fiberglass molding. Functionally the ease of keeping a molded liner clean has much to recommend it; aesthetically the sterility of the gelcoat may offend some tastes.

A few other specific construction details deserve note:

• The hardware on the Flicka is generally excellent, whether it is the standard or the optional cast bronze package, provided your taste allows for a mixture of traditional and modern. Since weight has not been a factor, most of the fittings are rugged, even massive. All through hull fittings are fitted with seacocks. Particularly impressive is the tabernacle mast step, a contrast with the flimsy sheet steel versions on cheaper boats. A notable exception to this endorsement are a pair of inadequate forward chocks.

• The scribed “planking seams” in the fiberglass topsides as well as the scrollwork are especially well done. However, any owner of a wood boat who has spent untold hours fairing topsides to get rid of real seams has to wonder at anyone’s purposely delineating phony seams in fiberglass.

• There is a removable section of cockpit sole over the engine compartment that gives superb access for servicing the engine and permits its installation or removal without tearing up the interior. It is a feature many boats with under-cockpit engines should envy given the chronic inaccessibility of such installations. Access to the Flicka’s engine from the cabin is no better than that on most boats even for routinely checking the oil level.

• External chainplates eliminate a common source of through-deck leaks but at the expense of exposing the chainplates to damage.

• There is good access to the underside of the deck and coaming for installation of deck hardware. The headliner in the cabin is zippered vinyl.

• Anyone with a modern boat with its vestigal bilge sump has to appreciate the Flicka’s deep sump in the after end of the keel.

• The ballast (1,750 lbs of lead) is encapsulated in the molded hull, risking more structural damage in a hard grounding than exposed ballast but eliminating possible leaking around keel bolts. Handling Under Sail

In an era that has brought sailors such hot little boats as the Moors 24, the Santa Cruz 27, and the J/24, any talk about the performance of a boat with three times their displacement-length ratio has to be in purely relative terms. In drifting conditions the Flicka simply has too much weight and too much wetted surface area to accelerate. Add some choppiness to the sea and she seems to take forever to get under way.

When the wind gets up to 10 knots or so, the Flicka begins to perk up, but then only if sea conditions remain moderate. With the wind rising above 10 or 12 knots the Flicka becomes an increasingly able sailer.

However, she is initially a very tender boat and is quick to assume a 15 degree angle of heel, in contrast to most lighter, shallower, flatter boats that carry less sail but accelerate out from under a puff before they heel.

In winds over 15 knots the Flicka feels like much more boat than her short length would suggest. As she heels her stability increases reassuringly. Her movement through the water is firmer and she tracks remarkably well, a long lost virtue in an age of boats with fin keels and spade rudders, Owners unanimously applaud her ability to sail herself for long stretches even when they change her trim by going forward or below.

Practical Sailor suggests those looking at—and reading about—the Flicka discount tales of fast passages. While it is certainly true that the boat is capable of good speed under optimum conditions, she is not a boat that should generate unduly optimistic expectations. In short, there may be a lot of reasons to own a Flicka, but speed is not one of them.

One mitigating factor is that performance consists not only of speed but also ease of handling, stability, steadiness, and even comfort. In this respect, the Flicka may not go fast but she should be pleasant enough to sail that getting there fast may not be important.

The Flicka comes with two alternative rigs, the standard masthead marconi sloop and the optional gaff-rigged cutter. Most of the boats have been sold as sloops. The gaff cutter is a more “shippy” looking rig, but for good reasons most modern sailors will forego a gaff mainsail.

If you regularly sail in windy or squally conditions, you might want to consider a staysail for the sloop rig. However, for a 20′ boat an inventory of mainsail fitted with slab reefing, a working jib, and a genoa with 130% to 150% overlap should be adequate. For added performance the next sail to consider is a spinnaker and, if offshore passages are contemplated, a storm jib.

Handling Under Power

Any observations about handling under power raise the question of inboard versus outboard power. In fact, this may be the most crucial issue a potential Flicka owner faces. In making the decision, start with an observation: at a cruising displacement of over 5,000 lbs, the Flicka is at the upper limit for outboard auxiliary power. Then move to a second observation: small one-cylinder diesel engines such as the Yanmar and BMW fit readily into the Flicka, albeit at the expense of some valuable space under the cockpit sole.

Without going into all the pros and cons of one type of power versus another, we suggest installation of a diesel inboard either as original equipment or as soon after purchase as feasible. The Flicka is a boat that seems to beg for inboard power (most small boats do not); she has the space, and weight is not critical. Moreover, cost should not be critical either. Inboard power adds about 10% to the cost of the boat with outboard power, a small percentage of an expensive package. Much of the additional cost is apt to be recoverable at resale whereas the depreciation on an outboard in five years virtually amounts to its original value.

Deck Layout

Any discussion of the livability of the Flicka should be prefaced by a reminder that above decks this is a crowded, cluttered 20 footer and below decks this is a boat with the space of a 26 footer. The Flicka is a boat with enough space below for one couple to live aboard and yet small enough topside for them to handle easily.

Nowhere is the small size of the Flicka more apparent than on deck and in her cockpit. The short cockpit (a seat length of barely over 5′, too short to stretch out for a nap), a high cabin house, sidedecks too narrow to walk on to windward with the boat heeled and always obstructed by shrouds, the awkwardness of a bowsprit, and lifelines that interfere with jib sheet winching are all indicative of the crowded deck plan.

The stern pulpit is an attractive option. However, it makes manual control of a transom-mounted outboard difficult. The pulpit incorporates the mainsheet traveler although the lead for close sheeting is poor. In 1983 an optional roller bearing traveler arrangement which spans the bridge was offered, and it provides a much better lead for close sheeting, at the expense of a certain amount of living space in the cockpit.

For outboard powered Flickas there is a lidded box that permits stowage of the fuel tank at the after end of the cockpit, a sensible and safe feature. For those owners who want propane and have inboard power, this same space fitted with a sealed box and through-transom vents would make a suitable place for gas bottles.

At the other end of the cockpit, the lack of a bridgedeck or high sill is, in our opinion, decidedly un-seamanlike. The Flicka should have at least semi-permanent means of keeping water in a flooded cockpit from going below. One of the 1983 changes was the addition of a bridgedeck.

If we owned a Flicka we would run all halyards (plus a jib downhaul) aft to the cockpit on the cabin top. We would not rig a fixed staysail stay, and we would certainly not use a clubfooted staysail. The boom should have a permanent vang.

The builder has made every effort to keep the interior of the Flicka open and unobstructed from the companionway to the chain locker, a noble endeavor that gives an impression of spaciousness rivaling that of 30 footers. Headroom is 5′ 11″ for the length of the cabin (find that in another boat-shaped 20 footer!). Better yet, height is retained over the galley counter, the settee berth, and the after section of the vee berths. Flicka’s high topsides permit outboard bookshelves and galley lockers, stowage under the deck over the vee berths, and headroom over the quarterberth.

Two notable features of the interior are conspicuous as soon as the initial impression wears off. There is no enclosed head in pre-1983 models, and there is no sleeping privacy. How important these factors are is purely a matter of individual taste and priorities. For a cruising couple a four-berth layout is a waste of space. The manufacturer, taking this into account, made space for the enclosed head offered in 1983 by shortening the starboard settee berth from 6′ 5″ down to 4′ 2″.

Incidentally, this observation about berths is not meant to imply any special deficiency in the Flicka. It is true of too many boats on the market. They are built for a boat buying public that seems to think the number of berths is almost as important as whether the boat will float.

The absence of an enclosed head in a small yacht of the proportions of a Flicka requires a conscious decision from any potential owner. The small space between the vee berths is designed to hold a self-contained head. A “privacy curtain” that slides across the cabin gives a modicum of respectability. Of course, its use is discouraged when anyone is sleeping forward. One owner solves this by lugging the head to the after end of the cockpit at night and encloses the cockpit with a tent, thus creating a privy or outhouse that boasts perfect ventilation. We hesitate to suggest his lugging it another few inches aft.

Less enterprising owners could consider installing a conventional marine toilet plus a holding tank under the vee berths. If sailing is done in waters where a through-hull fitting and diverter valve are permitted, then such a system is far more worthwhile than any self-contained system. Such a unit should make sharing your bed with the head as palatable as it will ever be.

Frankly, the lack of an enclosed head in a boat that otherwise can boast of being a miniature yacht is the most serious drawback to her interior, surplus berths notwithstanding.

Virtually every owner we talked with has added stowage space one way or another. Some have done it by removing the fiberglass bins that fit into the scuttles under the berths, others enlarge the shelves behind the settee berth and over the forward berths and others cut openings through the liner to give access to unused space.

Other modifications owners report having done include fitting the boat with a gimballed stove, adding fresh water tankage (20 gals standard), installing a third battery and/or moving them forward to help overcome a tendency for the Flicka to trim down by her stern, and fitting the cockpit with a companionway dodger.

One feature that does not seem to need any improvement is ventilation. The Flicka has an uncommonly airy interior, although we would add an opening port in the cockpit seat riser for the quarterberth. Her vertical after bulkhead means that a hatchboard can be left out for air without rain getting into the cabin.

Anyone considering the Flicka should ask Pacific Seacraft for a copy of the articles written by Bruce Bingham and Katy Burke on the changes they made to their Sabrina while living aboard and cruising extensively for more than two years.

Conclusions

Buyers put off by the price of the Flicka should consider the fact that this is a 20′ boat with the weight and space of a 26- to 28-footer of more modern proportions. That still may not put her high all-up price tag in crystal clear perspective. It shouldn’t. The Flicka is still an extremely expensive boat. She still has a waterline length of merely 15′, true accommodations for two, a too cozy cockpit, and a lot of sail area and rigging not found on more conventional contemporary boats. Nor does she have the performance to rival more modern designs. (One owner reports a PHRF rating for his Flicka of about 300 seconds per mile, a figure that drops her off the handicap scale of most base rating lists we’ve seen.)

At the same time the Flicka is a quality package that should take a singlehander or couple anywhere they might wish to sail her. There are not many production boats anywhere near her size and price that can make that claim.

The faults with the Flicka have to be weighed against her virtues as is the case with choosing any boat. Fortunately, though, her faults are the type that can be readily seen; they are not the invisible ones of structure, handling, or engineering so typical of other production boats. Similarly her virtues are traditional and time tested, She is built by a firm to whom the owners give high marks for interest and cooperation and the Flickas on the used boat market have maintained their value better than the average production boat. At the bottom line is a boat with much to recommend her.

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Step-By-Step Guide: How to Build a Wooden Sailboat – Complete DIY Tutorial

Alex Morgan

Building a wooden sailboat is a rewarding and fulfilling endeavor that allows you to create your own vessel for sailing adventures. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a woodworking enthusiast, constructing a wooden sailboat requires careful planning, attention to detail, and a love for craftsmanship. This comprehensive guide will take you through the step-by-step process of building a wooden sailboat, from choosing the right design and gathering the necessary materials to assembling the framework, building the deck and cabin, and installing the sails and rigging. We will also discuss the finishing touches and regular maintenance required to keep your wooden sailboat in optimal condition for years of enjoyment on the water. Let’s dive into the world of wooden sailboat construction and embark on this exciting journey together.

Key takeaways:

Key takeaway:

• Choosing the right design and plans is crucial: Research different sailboat designs and select suitable plans based on your skill level to ensure a successful project.
• Gather the necessary materials and tools: Pay attention to wood selection and preparation, as well as acquiring the tools and equipment needed for building your wooden sailboat.
• Attention to detail in the construction process is important: Prepare and assemble the framework carefully, focusing on lofting, laying out the keel, constructing the ribs, and the hull structure to ensure a sturdy and reliable sailboat.

Choosing the Right Design and Plans

When it comes to building a wooden sailboat, one of the crucial steps is choosing the right design and plans. In this section, we’ll take a deep dive into the world of sailboat designs and explore the vast array of options available. From researching different sailboat designs to selecting plans that match your skill level, we’ll guide you through the exciting process of bringing your wooden sailboat dream to life. So, hop aboard and let’s set sail on this exhilarating journey of craftsmanship and adventure.

Researching Different Sailboat Designs

When conducting research on sailboat designs, it is important to take into account a variety of factors in order to select the most suitable design. One of the primary considerations is whether you prefer a monohull or a multihull sailboat. Monohulls are more commonly found and offer superior performance when sailing upwind, whereas multihulls provide both stability and speed.

Another aspect to consider is your level of sailing experience. If you are a beginner, it is advisable to seek out designs that are easier to handle and forgiving. On the other hand, experienced sailors may gravitate towards performance-oriented designs that are ideal for racing or long-distance cruising.

It is crucial to think about how you intend to use the sailboat. Are you looking for a day sailer , a cruiser , or a racing boat ? Each design comes with its own set of distinctive features and characteristics.

Determining the appropriate size of the sailboat is another crucial step, which should be based on the number of people and activities you plan to have on board. You must also decide whether you prefer an open cockpit or an enclosed cabin .

To find the perfect sailboat design that aligns with your sailing goals and preferences, it is imperative to thoroughly research various options and take into consideration all of these factors. By doing so, you will be able to make an informed decision and select the ideal sailboat design.

Selecting Suitable Plans for Your Skill Level

When it comes to building a wooden sailboat, it is crucial to select suitable plans that match your skill level. This is important as it ensures that you have the necessary knowledge and expertise to effectively complete the construction. In order to help you with this, here is a table that outlines the different skill levels and the corresponding plans:

Choosing the right plans for your skill level is essential as it enables you to navigate the construction process smoothly, avoid any complications, and ultimately achieve the desired result. It is crucial to honestly evaluate your woodworking skills and then select plans that align with your abilities. Keep in mind that building a wooden sailboat demands patience , attention to detail , and a willingness to learn and improve your woodworking skills.

As a pro tip, if you are a beginner, it is advisable to start with simpler plans and gradually work your way up to more complex projects. This allows you to gain experience and confidence in your woodworking abilities over time. So always remember to select suitable plans for your skill level and enjoy the process of building your wooden sailboat.

Gathering the Necessary Materials and Tools

When it comes to building a wooden sailboat, gathering the necessary materials and tools is key . In this section, we’ll dive into the exciting world of selecting and preparing the right wood for your sailboat, as well as the essential tools and equipment you’ll need to bring your project to life. So, start sharpening your creativity and let’s sail away into the realm of wooden boat construction!

Wood Selection and Preparation

Incorporating the provided keywords naturally in the provided text:

1. Conduct research on the different types of wood used in boatbuilding, such as mahogany , teak , or oak . This will help you make an informed decision regarding the most suitable wood for your sailboat.

2. Determine the specific requirements of your sailboat design in order to guide your wood selection process. Each design may have different needs and preferences when it comes to the type of wood to be used.

3. Take into consideration the durability and resistance to rot of the wood options available. This is crucial to ensure the longevity and overall quality of your sailboat. Choosing a wood that can withstand exposure to water and other elements is essential.

4. Look for straight , dry , and defect-free wood. This will contribute to the structural integrity of your sailboat. Any defects or irregularities in the wood may compromise its strength and performance.

5. Calculate the amount of wood needed based on the specific design and measurements of your sailboat. This will help you estimate the quantity of wood required for the construction process.

6. Mill or cut the wood into the required dimensions and shapes as outlined in the sailboat design. This step is crucial for achieving the desired structure and appearance of your sailboat.

7. Prior to assembly, it is important to sand the wood surfaces thoroughly. This will remove any rough edges or splinters, ensuring a smooth and safe finish.

8. Apply a protective coating or sealant to the wood in order to prevent water damage. This will help preserve the wood and extend its lifespan .

By following these steps, you can ensure that the wood selected and prepared for your sailboat construction is suitable and of high quality.

Tools and Equipment Needed for the Project

When embarking on the construction of a wooden sailboat, it is crucial to have the appropriate tools and equipment to ensure successful completion.

To accurately measure and obtain precise alignment and dimensions, essential measuring tools such as a tape measure , combination square , and level are indispensable.

For shaping wooden components, cutting tools like a circular saw or table saw , jigsaw , and hand saw are necessary.

Joinery tools, including a chisel set , mallet or hammer , and drill with different-sized bits, are vital for smoothly joining parts together.

To achieve a polished finish, sanding and finishing tools such as sandpaper with varying grits, sanding blocks , and a random orbital sander are crucial.

Additionally, brushes and rollers are required for the application of finishes.

When it comes to safety, it is imperative to prioritize the use of safety goggles , ear protection , a dust mask , and work gloves to ensure personal protection during the construction process.

When selecting tools and equipment, it is essential to invest in high-quality items that are specifically designed for the tasks involved in wooden sailboat building.

By doing so, not only will efficiency be maximized, but the overall quality of the finished boat will also be greatly enhanced.

Preparing and Assembling the Framework

As we delve into the world of building a wooden sailboat, we now find ourselves in the exciting phase of preparing and assembling the framework. In this section, we’ll discover the essential steps that go into setting up the lofting and laying out the keel , as well as the intricacies of constructing the ribs and hull structure. Get ready to immerse yourself in the hands-on process of bringing this magnificent vessel to life!

Setting Up the Lofting and Laying Out the Keel

To properly set up the lofting and lay out the keel for a wooden sailboat, it is important to follow these steps in a systematic manner:

• Firstly, prepare the lofting area by clearing a large, flat space where the plans and measurements will be placed.
• Next, securely attach the keel stock to the lofting platform, making sure it is both level and aligned with the boat’s centerline.
• Using battens, rulers, and pencils, transfer the measurements and lines from the boat plans onto the lofting platform.
• Ensure the accuracy of the waterlines, buttock lines, and other reference lines on the lofting platform by drawing them according to the measurements provided in the boat plans.
• Utilizing the dimensions indicated in the plans, measure and mark the positions of the keel, stem, and transom on the lofting platform.
• Thoroughly examine and adjust all lines and measurements to guarantee their accuracy.
• Identify the locations where any additional frames, bulkheads, or structural elements will connect to the keel, by marking them accordingly.
• Prior to proceeding, double-check all marks and measurements to ensure their accuracy.

The process of setting up the lofting and laying out the keel is an integral step in the construction of a wooden sailboat. It serves as the foundation and reference points for the boat’s overall structure. It is crucial to pay close attention to detail and maintain accuracy throughout the build. By following these steps, you will be on your way to constructing your very own wooden sailboat.

Constructing the Ribs and Hull Structure

When constructing the ribs and hull structure of a wooden sailboat, follow these steps:

– Measure and cut the ribs: Use the plans as a guide to mark and cut the dimensions on the wood. Cut the ribs accurately.

– Attach the ribs to the keel: Position and attach the cut ribs evenly along the keel using marine epoxy and screws.

– Install chines and stringers: Attach the chines to the bottom edge of the boat and install the stringers along the sides for strength.

– Attach the planking: Cut and fit planks to cover the rib and stringer structure, securing them tightly.

– Reinforce the joints: Apply epoxy and fiberglass tape over the joints to strengthen the structure.

– Shape the hull: Use tools to shape and smooth the hull, paying attention to fairing for optimal hydrodynamics.

– Apply a protective finish: Coat the hull and ribs with marine-grade varnish or epoxy for durability.

– Perform a thorough inspection: Check for defects, cracks, or imperfections and make necessary repairs before moving forward.

The process of constructing wooden sailboats has evolved over time, combining traditional techniques with modern materials and tools. Craftsmanship, attention to detail, and an understanding of wood’s properties are still essential in constructing the ribs and hull structure. This blend of artistry and engineering ensures sailboats can withstand the demands of the sea while providing a smooth and enjoyable sailing experience.

Building the Deck and Cabin

Let’s dive into the exciting world of building a wooden sailboat! In this section, we’ll focus on the crucial element of constructing the deck and cabin. Get ready to explore the process of creating the deck framework and adding those essential interior features . From laying the foundation to crafting a cozy cabin space , we’ll uncover the key steps and considerations for bringing your wooden sailboat to life. So, grab your tools and let’s set sail on this exhilarating construction journey !

Creating the Deck Framework

When creating the deck framework for a wooden sailboat, follow these steps:

• Measure and mark the desired deck size and shape on the boat’s frame.
• Cut and shape the wooden planks or panels to match the marked measurements.
• Align the planks or panels horizontally across the frame, ensuring they are straight and evenly spaced.
• Secure the planks or panels to the frame using screws or nails, ensuring tight fastening.
• Add additional support beams or joists underneath the deck for added strength and stability.
• Sand the deck surface to create a smooth and even finish.
• Apply a weather-resistant sealant or paint to protect the deck from moisture and UV damage.
• Install necessary features or fixtures on the deck, such as hatches, cleats or railings.

Pro-tip: Enhance the deck’s strength and durability by adding epoxy or marine adhesive between the joints before securing the planks or panels.

Installing the Cabin and Interior Features

When building a wooden sailboat, it is important to pay attention to every step, including the installation of the cabin and interior features. To install these features, follow the following steps:

1. First, measure and cut the materials for the cabin walls, floor, and ceiling.

2. Next, securely fit the cabin walls in place.

3. Then, attach the floorboards to the cabin base using screws or nails.

4. Align and install the cabin ceiling.

5. If desired, add insulation for extra comfort.

6. Attach interior features such as cabinets, storage compartments, and seating areas.

7. Install windows and hatches to allow for natural light and ventilation.

8. Properly wire the cabin for electricity, ensuring that lights and outlets are installed and functioning.

9. Finish the interior by sanding and applying a protective coat of varnish or paint.

10. Ensure that all installations meet safety standards.

Precision and attention to detail are key when installing the cabin and interior features of a wooden sailboat. By carefully measuring, cutting, and fitting each component, you can ensure a secure fit. It is important to optimize the layout and functionality of the interior features to create a comfortable living space with ample storage. The addition of windows and hatches will enhance comfort and enjoyment by providing natural light and ventilation . If electricity is needed, proper wiring is essential to ensure necessary lighting and power outlets. Finishing the interior with a protective coat of varnish or paint will not only enhance aesthetics but also provide durability.

Remember, the goal is to create a cozy retreat for sailors, so it is important to put in the necessary effort to install the cabin and interior features correctly.

Installing the Sails and Rigging

Set sail with confidence as we dive into the exciting world of installing the sails and rigging for your wooden sailboat. Discover the key considerations in choosing the perfect sails and master the art of setting up and adjusting the rigging. With expert tips and tricks , this section will equip you with the knowledge to navigate the waters with ease and experience the thrill of sailing your wooden masterpiece .

Choosing the Right Sails

When choosing sails for your wooden sailboat, consider the following factors:

– Type of sailing: Determine if you plan to cruise , race , or do both. Different sails are designed for specific purposes.

– Boat size: The size of your sailboat determines the size and number of sails you need. Larger boats require bigger sails , while smaller boats may need fewer and smaller sails .

– Wind conditions: Consider the typical wind conditions in your sailing areas. Different sails perform better in light winds , heavy winds , or various wind conditions.

– Sail material: The material of the sails affects durability and performance. Material choices include Dacron , laminate , and nylon . Each material has different trade-offs between longevity, performance, and cost.

– Reefing options: If you sail in varied or unpredictable wind conditions, choose sails with reefing options. Reefing allows you to adjust the sail area for stronger winds, improving control and safety.

– Manufacturer reputation: Research sail manufacturers for their reputation and reliability. Read reviews, seek recommendations, and consider warranty and customer support.

By considering these factors, you can make an informed decision when choosing sails for your wooden sailboat. Remember, the right sails greatly impact your sailing experience, so take your time and choose wisely.

Setting Up and Adjusting the Rigging

When setting up and adjusting the rigging of a wooden sailboat, it is important to follow these steps to ensure proper and safe rigging.

To start, attach the mast to the deck using a mast step or mast partner for stability and support. This will provide the foundation for the rigging.

Next, secure the standing rigging , which includes the shrouds and stays , to the mast. This will help distribute the forces from the sails and ensure the stability of the mast.

Connect the forestay to the bow of the sailboat. This will keep the mast in line and control the position of the headsail.

To counteract forces from the headsail and maintain rigging tension, attach the backstay to the stern of the boat.

Use turnbuckles or rigging screws to adjust the tension in the standing rigging. This will ensure proper alignment and support of the mast.

Install the running rigging , including halyards and sheets , to control the position and tension of the sails.

Before and during sailing, it is important to regularly check the tension in the rigging to ensure performance and safety.

Make any necessary adjustments to the rigging during sailing in order to optimize the shape of the sails and enhance the performance of the boat.

By following these steps, you will be able to properly set up and adjust the rigging of your wooden sailboat, allowing for safe and enjoyable sailing experiences.

Finishing Touches and Maintenance

When it comes to completing your wooden sailboat and keeping it in top shape, this section has got you covered. We’ll dive into the art of applying exquisite finishes to the hull and deck, giving your sailboat a stunning appearance. And don’t worry, we won’t neglect the nitty-gritty details of regular maintenance and care, ensuring your wooden vessel remains seaworthy for years to come. So, let’s get ready to add those finishing touches and keep your sailboat sailing smoothly !

Applying Finishes to the Hull and Deck

When building a wooden sailboat, applying finishes to the hull and deck is crucial for durability and aesthetic appeal. Here are the steps to follow:

1. Prepare the surfaces: Sand down rough spots, fill in cracks and imperfections, and ensure a smooth and clean surface.

2. Choose the right finish: Consider the type of wood and desired look. Varnish provides a glossy and traditional appearance, while paint offers different colors and styles.

3. Apply the primer: Enhance adherence and create an even surface for the final coat by applying a primer.

4. Apply the finish: Use a brush or roller to apply the chosen finish coat to the hull and deck. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for drying times and application techniques.

5. Allow for drying and curing: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for drying and curing to ensure the finish is fully set and provides maximum protection.

6. Inspect and touch up: After drying, inspect the hull and deck for missed spots or imperfections. Touch up any areas that require additional finish for a seamless and polished look.

By following these steps and applying finishes properly, you can protect and enhance the hull and deck of your wooden sailboat, ensuring it looks beautiful and lasts for many years.

Regular Maintenance and Care for Your Wooden Sailboat

Regular maintenance and care for your wooden sailboat is crucial for its longevity and performance. Here are the steps to follow:

1. Inspect the hull and deck for damage like cracks or rot. Promptly repair any issues to prevent further damage.

2. Clean the boat regularly with mild detergent and freshwater to remove dirt, salt, and grime that can accumulate over time.

3. Apply a protective coating to the hull and deck using marine-grade varnish or paint to prevent water penetration and protect against UV damage.

4. Check the rigging and sails for wear or damage. Replace worn-out lines or rigging components for safe sailing.

5. Inspect wooden components such as the mast, boom, and rudder for rot or decay. Replace or repair as necessary to maintain structural integrity.

6. Keep the interior of the sailboat clean and dry to prevent mold and mildew growth. Use a dehumidifier if needed.

7. Regularly check and maintain the boat’s systems , including electrical, plumbing, and navigation equipment. Address any issues promptly.

8. Store the wooden sailboat in a suitable location, such as a covered boat dock or boatyard, when not in use. Protect it from extreme weather conditions.

Pro-tip: Establish a regular maintenance schedule and keep a detailed record of all maintenance and repairs. This will help you stay organized and ensure your wooden sailboat remains in optimal condition.

Some Facts About How To Build A Wooden Sailboat:

• ✅ Building a wooden sailboat can take approximately 100 hours over a span of 3 months. (Source: Instructables)
• ✅ A wooden sailboat can cost around $1,000 to build. (Source: Instructables)
• ✅ The boat is typically built from 4×8 sheets of plywood and measures 8 feet in length. (Source: Instructables)
• ✅ Various tools such as a pull-saw, table saw, router, sander, and drill are needed for building a wooden sailboat. (Source: Instructables)
• ✅ Fiberglass cloth, epoxy resin, screws, and other materials are used to reinforce and waterproof the wooden sailboat. (Source: Instructables)

Frequently Asked Questions

1. how long does it take to build a wooden sailboat.

Building a wooden sailboat typically takes about 100 hours spread over approximately 3 months.

2. What materials are needed to build a wooden sailboat?

To build a wooden sailboat, you will need 4×8 sheets of plywood, epoxy resin, oak plywood, various tools (such as a pull-saw, table saw, router, etc.), fiberglass cloth, screws, fasteners, and other supplies like glue, clamps, and mixing cups.

3. How much does it cost to build a wooden sailboat?

The estimated cost of building a wooden sailboat is around $1,000, including the materials and tools needed for the project.

4. Can I learn to build a wooden sailboat if I have no prior experience?

Yes, building skills can be learned gradually, and mistakes can be avoided along the way. With patience and guidance from boat building plans, even beginners can successfully build a wooden sailboat.

5. How long is the wooden sailboat described in the reference?

The wooden sailboat described in the reference is an 8-foot long pram, featuring classic lines and made from 4×8 sheets of plywood.

6. Can I launch the wooden sailboat in any body of water?

Yes, the wooden sailboat is designed to be light enough to fit in a small pickup truck or be rolled to a local lake on a dolly, making it suitable for various bodies of water.

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Plans and specifications with material list and complete instructions for building 20-ft. sailboat

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So was able to get one made of the original plywood 20ft sailboat and wish to learn more about it. Never before saw or sail one of them. Get that sailboat from older sailor who really have taken care of it but there is many things I wish to take care of it. Looking for main sail and jib. Going to work this winter just to make sure I will be ready for the sail season of 2018!!

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10 Best Small Sailboats (Under 20 Feet)

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

December 28, 2023

Compact, easy to trailer, simple to rig, easy to maintain and manage, and affordable, the best small boats all have one thing in common: they offer loads of fun while out there on the water.

So whether you're on a budget or just looking for something that can offer ultimate daytime rides without compromising on safety, aesthetic sensibilities, alternate propulsion, and speed, the best small sailboats under 20 feet should be the only way to go.

Let's be brutally honest here; not everyone needs a 30-foot sailboat to go sailing. They come with lots of features such as electronics, entertainment, refrigeration, bunks, a galley, and even a head. But do you really need all these features to go sailing? We don't think so.

All you need to go sailing is a hull, a mast, rudder, and, of course, a sail. And whether you refer to them as daysailers, trailerable sailboats , a weekender sailboat, or pocket cruisers, there's no better way to enjoy the thrills of coastal sailing than on small sailboats.

There are a wide range of small boats measuring less than 20 feet available in the market. These are hot products in the market given that they offer immense thrills out on the sea without the commitment required to cruise on a 30-footer. A small sailboat will not only give you the feel of every breeze but will also give you the chance to instantly sense every change in trim.

In this article, we'll highlight 10 best small sailboats under 20 feet . Most models in this list are time-tested, easy to rig, simple to sail, extremely fun, and perfect either for solo sailing or for sailing with friends and family. So if you've been looking for a list of some of the best small sailboats , you've come to the right place.

So without further ado, let's roll on.

Table of contents

{{boat-info="/boats/hunter-15"}}

The Marlow-Hunter 15 is not only easy to own since it's one of the most affordable small sailboats but also lots of fun to sail. This is a safe and versatile sailboat for everyone. Whether you're sailing with your family or as a greenhorn, you'll love the Hunter 15 thanks to its raised boom, high freeboard, and sturdy FRP construction.

With high sides, a comfortable wide beam, a contoured self-bailing cockpit, and fiberglass construction, the Hunter 15 is certainly designed with the novice sailor in mind. This is why you can do a lot with this boat without falling out, breaking it, or capsizing. Its contoured self-baiting cockpit will enable you to find a fast exit while its wide beam will keep it steady and stable no matter what jibes or weight shifts happen along the way.

This is a small sailboat that can hold up to four people. It's designed to give you a confident feeling and peace of mind even when sailing with kids. It's easy to trailer, easy to rig, and easy to launch. With a price tag of about $10k, the Hunter 15 is a fun, affordable, and versatile boat that is perfect for both seasoned sailors and novices. It's a low-maintenance sailboat that can be great for teaching kids a thing or two about sailing.

Catalina 16.5

{{boat-info="/boats/catalina-16-5"}}

Catalina Yachts are synonymous with bigger boats but they have some great and smaller boats too such as Catalina 16.5. This is one of the best small sailboats that are ideal for family outings given that it has a big and roomy cockpit, as well as a large storage locker. Designed with a hand-laminated fiberglass sloop, the Catalina 16.5 is versatile and is available in two designs: the centerboard model and the keel model.

The centerboard model is designed with a powerful sailplane that remains balanced as a result of the fiberglass centerboard, the stable hull form, and the rudder. It also comes with a tiller extension, adjustable hiking straps, and adjustable overhaul. It's important to note that these are standard equipment in the two models.

As far as the keel model is concerned, this is designed with a high aspect keel as the cast lead and is attached with stainless steel keel bolts, which makes this model perfect for mooring or docking whenever it's not in use. In essence, the centerboard model is perfect if you'll store it in a trailer while the keel model can remain at the dock.

All in all, the Catalina 16.5 is one of the best small sailboats that you can get your hands on for as low as $10,000. This is certainly a great example of exactly what a daysailer should be.

{{boat-info="/boats/hobie-16"}}

There's no list of small, trailerable, and fun sailboats that can be complete without the inclusion of the classic Hobie 16. This is a durable design that has been around and diligently graced various waters across the globe since its debut way back in 1969 in Southern California. In addition to being durable, the Hobie 16 is trailerable, great for speed, weighs only 320 pounds, great for four people, and more importantly, offers absolute fun.

With a remarkable figure of over 100,000 launched since its debut, it's easy to see that the Hobie 16 is highly popular. Part of this popularity comes from its asymmetric fiberglass-and-foam sandwiched hulls that include kick-up rudders. This is a great feature that allows it to sail up to the beach.

For about $12,000, the Hobie 16 will provide you with endless fun throughout the summer. It's equipped with a spinnaker, trailer, and douse kit. This is a high-speed sailboat that has a large trampoline to offer lots of space not just for your feet but also to hand off the double trapezes.

Montgomery 17

{{boat-info="/boats/montgomery-17"}}

Popularly known as the M-17, The Montgomery 17 was designed by Lyle C. Hess in conjunction with Jerry Montgomery in Ontario, California for Montgomery Boats. Designed either with keel or centerboard models, the M-17 is more stable than most boats of her size. This boat is small enough to be trailered but also capable of doing moderate offshore passages.

This small sailboat is designed with a masthead and toe rail that can fit most foresails. It also has enough space for two thanks to its cuddly cabin, which offers a sitting headroom, a portable toilet, a pair of bunks, a DC power, and optional shore, and a proper amount of storage. That's not all; you can easily raise the deck-stepped mast using a four-part tackle.

In terms of performance, the M-17 is one of the giant-killers out there. This is a small sailboat that will excel in the extremes and make its way past larger boats such as the Catalina 22. It glides along beautifully and is a dog in light air, though it won't sail against a 25-knot wind, which can be frustrating. Other than that, the Montgomery 17 is a great small sailboat that can be yours for about $14,000.

Norseboat 17.5

{{boat-info="/boats/norseboat-17-5"}}

As a versatile daysailer, Norseboat 17.5 follows a simple concept of seaworthiness and high-performance. This small sailboat perfectly combines both contemporary construction and traditional aesthetics. Imagine a sailboat that calls itself the "Swiss Army Knife of Boats!" Well, this is a boat that can sail and row equally well.

Whether you're stepping down from a larger cruiser or stepping up from a sea kayak, the unique Norseboat 17.5 is balanced, attractive, and salty. It has curvaceous wishbone gaff, it is saucy, and has a stubby bow-sprit that makes it attractive to the eyes. In addition to her beauty, the Norseboat 17.5 offers an energy-pinching challenge, is self-sufficient, and offers more than what you're used to.

This is a small, lightweight, low-maintenance sailboat that offers a ticket to both sailing and rowing adventures all at the same time. At about 400 pounds, it's very portable and highly convenient. Its mainsails may look small but you'll be surprised at how the boat is responsive to it. With a $12,500 price tag, this is a good small sailboat that offers you the versatility to either row or sail.

{{boat-info="/boats/sage-marine-sage-17"}}

If you've been looking for a pocket cruiser that inspires confidence, especially in shoal water, look no further than the Sage 17. Designed by Jerry Montgomery in 2009, the Sage 17 is stable and should heel to 10 degrees while stiffening up. And because you want to feel secure while sailing, stability is an integral feature of the Sage 17.

This is a sailboat that will remain solid and stable no matter which part of the boat you stand on. Its cabin roof and the balsa-cored carbon-fiber deck are so strong that the mast doesn't require any form of compression post. The self-draining cockpit is long enough and capable of sleeping at 6 feet 6 inches.

The Sage 17 may be expensive at $25k but is a true sea warrior that's worth look at. This is a boat that will not only serve you right but will also turn heads at the marina.    

{{boat-info="/boats/laserperformance-laser-sb3"}}

Having been chosen as the overall boat of the year for 2008 by the Sailing World Magazine, the Laser SB3 is one of the coolest boats you'll ever encounter. When sailing upwind, this boat will lock into the groove while its absolute simplicity is legendary. In terms of downwind sailing, having this boat will be a dream come true while it remains incredibly stable even at extraordinary speed.

Since its debut in 2004, the Laser SB3 has surged in terms of popularity thanks to the fact that it's designed to put all the controls at your fingertips. In addition to a lightweight mast, its T- bulb keel can be hauled and launched painlessly. For about $18,000, the Laser SB3 ushers you into the world of sports sailing and what it feels to own and use a sports boat.

{{boat-info="/boats/fareast-18"}}

As a manufacturer, Fareast is a Chinese boat manufacturer that has been around for less than two decades. But even with that, the Fareast 18 remains a very capable cruiser-racer that will take your sailing to the next level. In addition to its good looks, this boat comes with a retractable keel with ballast bulb, a powerful rig, and an enclosed cabin.

Its narrow design with a closed stern may be rare in sailboats of this size, but that's not a problem for the Fareast 18. This design not only emphasizes speed but also makes it a lot easier to maintain this boat. Perfect for about 6 people, this boat punches above its weight. It's, however, designed to be rigged and launched by one person.

This is a relatively affordable boat. It's agile, safe, well-thought-out, well built, and very sporty.

{{boat-info="/boats/chuck-paine-paine-14"}}

If you're in the market looking for a small sailboat that offers contemporary performance with classic beauty, the Paine 14 should be your ideal option. Named after its famous designer, Chuck Paine, this boat is intentionally designed after the classic Herreshoff 12.5 both in terms of dimensions and features.

This is a lightweight design that brings forth modern fin keel and spade rudder, which makes it agile, stable, and faster. The Paine 14 is built using cold-molded wood or west epoxy. It has varnished gunnels and transoms to give it an old-time charm. To make it somehow modern, this boat is designed with a carbon mast and a modern way to attach sails so that it's ready to sail in minutes.

You can rest easy knowing that the Paine 14 will not only serve you well but will turn heads while out there.

{{boat-info="/boats/wd-schock-lido-14"}}

Many sailors will attest that their first sailing outing was in a Lido 14. This is a classic sailboat that has been around for over four decades and still proves to be a perfect match to modern small boats, especially for those still learning the ropes of sailing.

With seating for six people, the Lido 14 can be perfect for solo sailing , single-handed sailing, or if you're planning for shorthanded sailing. While new Lido 14 boats are no longer available, go for a functional used Lido 14 and you'll never regret this decision. It will serve you well and your kids will probably fall in love with sailing if Lido 14 becomes their main vessel during weekends or long summer holidays.

Bottom Line

There you have it; these are some of the best small sailboats you can go for. While there are endless small sailboats in the market, the above-described sailboat will serve you right and make you enjoy the wind.

Choose the perfect sailboat, invest in it, and go out there and have some good fun!

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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US Army boats head out on a mission to build a floating pier off Gaza’s shore for food deliveries

Soldiers of LLV Monterrey from 7th Transportation Brigade (Expeditionary) prepare to deploy to the Gaza Strip on Tuesday, March 12, 2024, at Joint Base Langley-Eustis in Hampton, Va. (AP Photo/John C. Clark)

A group of soldiers from 7th Transportation Brigade (Expeditionary) wave to the crew of LLV Monterey as it pulls out from port on a humanitarian mission to Gaza, on Tuesday, March 12, 2024, at Joint Base Langley-Eustis in Hampton, Va. (AP Photo/John C. Clark)

Soldiers from 7th Transportation Brigade (Expeditionary), 3rd Expeditionary Sustainment Command, make final preparations on LSV SP/4 James A. Loux before deploying to the Gaza Strip on Tuesday, March 12, 2024, at Joint Base Langley-Eustis in Hampton, Va. The Loux will be supporting the construction of a floating pier off the coast of Gaza for delivery of humanitarian aid. (AP Photo/John C. Clark)

BG John “Brad” Hinson, commander of 3rd Expedition Sustainment Command and Assistant Commanding General (Supply) of XVIII Airborne Corps, speaks during a press conference pertaining to four army watercraft deploying to Gaza for delivery of humanitarian aid on Tuesday, March 12, 2024, at Joint Base Langley-Eustis in Hampton, Va. (AP Photo/John C. Clark)

CW3 Jason West, left, skipper for LSV SP/4 James A. Loux, 7th Transportation Brigade (Expeditionary), stands with his family before deploying on Tuesday, March 12, 2024, at Joint Base Langley-Eustis in Hampton, Va. (AP Photo/John C. Clark)

LSV SP/4 James A. Loux heads down the James River for a deployment to the Gaza Strip on Tuesday, March 12, 2024, at Joint Base Langley-Eustis in Hampton, Va. The watercraft will build and operate a floating pier in support of a humanitarian mission to Gaza. (AP Photo/John C. Clark)

Soldiers from 7th Transportation Brigade (Expeditionary), 3rd Expeditionary Sustainment Command, enter the mess galley on Large Land Craft Monterey on Tuesday, March 12, 2024, at Joint Base Langley-Eustis in Hampton, Va. The Monterey was one of four army watercraft deploying to Gaza for a humanitarian aid mission. (AP Photo/John C. Clark)

Col. Sam Miller, commander of 7th Transportation Brigade (Expeditionary), speaks to media before units from his brigade deploy to Gaza in support of a humanitarian mission on Tuesday, March 12, 2024, at Joint Base Langley-Eustis in Hampton, Va. (AP Photo/John C. Clark)

Soldiers give the crew of the LLV Monterey a box of snack bars before the Monterey leaves for deployment to the Gaza Strip for a humanitarian mission on Tuesday, March 12, 2024, at Joint Base Langley-Eustis in Hampton, Va. (AP Photo/John C. Clark)

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WASHINGTON (AP) — Four U.S. Army boats, loaded with tons of equipment and steel pier segments, left Virginia on Tuesday, heading to Gaza as part of the U.S. effort to expand the delivery of food and other supplies to starving Palestinians as Israel’s war against Hamas drags on.

The ships pulled out of docks at Joint Base Langley-Eustis and headed down the James River toward the Atlantic Ocean for what could be a month-long voyage to the Mediterranean Sea. There, at a yet-to-be-announced location along the Gaza shore, they will build and begin to operate a floating dock to receive the aid.

Since Hamas militants attacked Israel on Oct. 7, Israel’s military has battered the territory, killing more than 30,000 Palestinians, according to the Gaza Health Ministry, and creating a humanitarian catastrophe . The U.N. says virtually all of Gaza’s 2.3 million people are struggling to find food. But getting humanitarian aid to the area has been difficult, due to the ongoing hostilities and struggles to coordinate with the Israeli military, which has blocked routes and slowed deliveries due to inspections.

The latest Pentagon plan calls for the U.S. military to build what is called a modular causeway system. Off shore, the Army will build a large floating platform where ships can unload large containers of aid. Then the aid will be transferred by the Army to a motorized string of steel causeway sections that have been pushed to the shore.

That pier is expected to be as much as 1,800 feet (550 meters) long, with two lanes, and the Pentagon has said it could accommodate the delivery of more than 2 million meals a day for Gaza residents. Officials have not said who will be unloading the containers and taking the aid ashore. President Joe Biden has said there will be no U.S. troops on the ground in Gaza.

On Tuesday, as family members and senior Army commanders watched, about 70 soldiers with the 7th Transportation Brigade (Expeditionary) pulled away from the docks in four U.S. Army vessels: the USAV Wilson Wharf, USAV Matamoros and USAV Monterrey, all Army landing crafts, and the larger USAV SP4 James A. Loux, a logistics support watercraft.

The brigade’s commander, Army Col. Sam Miller, said about 500 of his soldiers will participate in the mission. All together, Pentagon officials have said about 1,000 U.S. troops will be involved.

Calling it a complicated mission, Miller said the transit will take about a month, but it will depend on weather and any possible high seas. The actual construction, he said, will take about a week, but that also could be hampered by weather. Then it will take additional time to get the delivery process coordinated with those providing the aid and the system up and running. Defense officials have said it will take about two months to get the deliveries started.

The Army’s vessels and maritime capabilities are unique and not as well known as the Navy’s. The last time the 7th Transportation Brigade did a similar mission to construct a large pier was in Haiti in 2010. But it has participated in a number of major military exercises.

“The soldiers here are energized, they’re motivated, they’re excited,” Miller said, adding that the new humanitarian mission “gives them purpose and meaning” and highlights the Army’s watercraft. He noted that just 36 hours after Biden ordered the operation, the first Army vessel — the USAV General Frank S. Besson logistics ship — left Joint Base Langley-Eustis on Saturday.

Miller said a larger Maritime Sealift Command ship will also be leaving Virginia in the coming days, and will be carrying some of the bigger equipment and more of the steel pier segments.

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In a boost for EVs, EPA finalizes strict new limits on tailpipe emissions

Camila Domonoske

Michael Copley

Morning traffic fills the SR2 freeway in Los Angeles, California. The EPA released new rules for vehicle emissions that are expected to cut tailpipe pollution and greenhouse gas emissions, which are fueling climate change. David McNew/Getty Images hide caption

Morning traffic fills the SR2 freeway in Los Angeles, California. The EPA released new rules for vehicle emissions that are expected to cut tailpipe pollution and greenhouse gas emissions, which are fueling climate change.

After nearly a year of frantic lobbying and debate, the EPA has finalized strict new rules on vehicle emissions that will push the auto industry to accelerate its transition to electric vehicles.

The EPA expects that under the new rules, EVs could account for up to 56% of new passenger vehicles sold for model years 2030 through 2032, meeting a goal that President Biden set in 2021 .

The regulations are a cornerstone of the Biden Administration's efforts to fight climate change.

Combined with investments the U.S. is making in battery and electric vehicle manufacturing, the auto regulations will help shift the U.S. away from relying on fossil fuels for transportation, a senior administration official said during a call with reporters.

"Three years ago, I set an ambitious target: that half of all new cars and trucks sold in 2030 would be zero-emission," Biden said in a statement, adding that the country will meet that goal "and race forward in the years ahead."

Biden added that U.S. workers "will lead the world on autos making clean cars and trucks, each stamped 'Made in America. '"

The new rules require auto manufacturers to slash emissions of greenhouse gasses like carbon dioxide that are heating the planet, as well as air pollutants that contribute to soot and smog. The administration says the new standards will avoid more than seven billion tons of carbon dioxide emissions and deliver almost $100 billion in annual benefits, including $13 billion in health benefits as a result of less pollution.

"That's going to have immediate benefits in improving air quality, but also improving people's health," Cara Cook, director of programs at the Alliance of Nurses for Healthy Environments, told reporters ahead of the EPA's announcement. "So they're not breathing in dirty air, especially for those who are living near major roadways and highways, heavy traffic [areas]. Those are the ones that are going to really experience a significant amount of benefits from these rules."

Entire fleets, not individual cars, must meet strict rules

The rules cover light- and medium-duty vehicles — cars, SUVs, vans and pickup trucks, but not 18-wheelers — from model years 2027 to 2032.

For light-duty vehicles, the EPA expects the rules will result in an industry-wide average emissions target of 85 grams of carbon dioxide per mile, representing an almost 50% reduction compared to existing standards for model year 2026 vehicles. The agency expects the average CO2 emissions target for medium-duty vehicles to fall by 44%.

The EPA rules are not written as an EV mandate or a ban on the sale of gas cars, like some states and other countries have adopted. Instead, the EPA sets standards that apply across an entire fleet — meaning an automaker still can make vehicles with higher emissions, as long as they also make enough very low or zero-emission vehicles that it averages out.

That means over the next decade, automakers can continue to offer a range of vehicle types, but the "menu" that's available to consumers will shift to be cleaner overall.

The rules will likely drive a shift not just among automakers, but among their suppliers and in infrastructure, says Thomas Boylan, regulatory director at the Zero Emission Transportation Association, which advocates for electric vehicles.

"I think it creates a substantial tailwind in the EV market itself, but I think it's even more pronounced throughout the supply chain" for things like parts manufacturing and charging infrastructure, Boylan said.

"It's really that full supply chain that has an additional level of certainty with these types of rules."

The EPA says consumers will also be able to opt for gas-powered vehicles with particulate filters and gas-electric hybrids.

Electric vehicles have higher price tags, on average, than gas-powered vehicles, although the gap has been narrowing and federal tax credits sometimes exceed the difference. Consumer groups have expressed support for the EPA's rules, noting that EVs save drivers money over the life of the vehicle because it's almost always cheaper to charge than to fuel up. Researchers last year found the proposed rule would save all drivers money , with the biggest savings for lower-income Americans.

The EPA says it expects the new rules will deliver fuel savings to consumers of up to $46 billion annually, plus savings on maintenance and repairs that the agency values at $16 billion annually.

"This is one of the biggest pieces of climate regulation in history," Chris Harto, senior policy analyst for transportation and energy at Consumer Reports, said on a call with reporters.

"It's going to have opponents," Harto added, because the money consumers will save is "coming out of the pockets of the oil industry."

In addition to reducing greenhouse gas emissions, the rules also call for a reduction in other types of tailpipe pollution. A senior Biden administration official said those pollution regulations will reduce hospitalizations and prevent 2,500 premature deaths in 2055.

Auto industry asked for a slower start

The auto industry is in the midst of a dramatic transformation, with virtually all major companies pivoting toward making electric vehicles — albeit at different speeds.

In the U.S., EV sales increased by 50% last year, to just under 10% of new car sales. Automakers are also looking to Europe and China, which have embraced the idea of an electric future, and shifting their global plans accordingly.

But U.S. charging infrastructure is not increasing fast enough to keep pace with EV growth. Most EVs for sale right now are luxury vehicles, with relatively fewer options on the cheaper end of the scale. And, significantly, legacy automakers are making far more money on their gas-powered vehicles than their EVs, some of which are not yet profitable at all.

The Alliance for Automotive Innovation, a trade group representing auto manufacturers, asked the EPA to adjust the timeline for the new rules, dialing down the ambition for the next few years and then cranking up the pace toward the end of the time frame. The United Auto Workers union made a similar appeal.

The approach reflected what the Alliance calls a "Goldilocks problem": automakers see huge risks if they move too slowly or too quickly toward EVs.

Of course, the auto industry is not a monolith. All-electric automakers like Tesla and Rivian encouraged the EPA to set even more stringent rules. Dealers, who have generally been more skeptical of EVs than manufacturers, sharply criticized the EPA's original proposed rules.

The final rules the EPA settled on reflect the input from auto makers, labor unions and car dealers, a senior administration official said. Manufacturers will be able to make more gradual cuts to emissions in the early years, the official said, but the rules will ultimately deliver the same reductions as the agency's initial proposal.

The oil industry is fundamentally opposed

The oil industry, meanwhile, has been an even more vocal critic of these rules and other policies promoting EVs. Rising adoption of electric vehicles is expected to reduce oil demand over time, although it will take decades for the global fleet of vehicles to turn over.

Oil trade groups call the new EPA rule a ban on gas-powered cars, although the regulations allow the continued sale of gas vehicles. The American Petroleum Institute has said the rule "threatens consumer freedom, energy reliability and national security."

The American Fuel and Petrochemical Manufacturers, which has spent millions on ads against the EPA rules and other policies, also criticized the EPA for not considering the environmental impact of manufacturing a giant battery or charging an EV. A large body of research has found that even with those impacts factored in , EVs are still vastly better for the planet than comparable fossil fuel vehicles. It's true, however, that larger, less efficient EVs have a bigger environmental footprint than smaller ones.

But the oil industry's opposition goes even further. The attorney general of Texas has previously filed a lawsuit challenging the EPA's authority to set rules designed to promote electric vehicles. Multiple oil trade groups backed Texas in the case. The auto industry sided with the EPA, noting that carmakers are investing billions in going electric and that reducing greenhouse gas emissions is a "national priority."

In fact, cutting greenhouse gas emissions is a global priority. The world has now agreed that transitioning away from fossil fuels is key to reducing the devastating impacts of climate change that, even in the best-case scenario, will disrupt ecosystems and human lives around the world.

And as the EPA sets rules designed to accelerate the shift away from fossil fuels, carmakers and oil producers are responding very differently.

The auto industry sees a profitable zero-emissions future for itself — if it can figure out how (and when) to get there. The oil industry is fighting to defend its core product.

On a call with reporters earlier this month, Chet Thompson, the CEO of the AFPM, lambasted media reports that the EPA was considering a "compromise" that would give the auto industry a few more years of more lenient standards, buying companies time to prepare for the EV transition.

Thompson emphasized that the EPA rules would still be, fundamentally, aimed at making most cars sold in the U.S. run on batteries.

"At 2032, it's the same outcome," Thompson said, frustrated. "This administration should not be calling that a compromise when in fact, they want to take us to the same place."

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Canada plans to reduce temporary residents, cap future intake

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Reporting by Ismail Shakil in Ottawa; Editing by Nia Williams

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Bulgarian FM Gabriel says no agreement on new government

Bulgarian Foreign Minister Mariya Gabriel, of the centre-right GERB party, said on Sunday no agreement had been reached on forming a new government with the We Continue the Change (PP) party.

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E.U. Finds a Way to Make Russia Pay for Weapons for Ukraine

Using interest earned on frozen Russian assets held in Europe, the bloc plans to raise billions. But other ways to pay for new weapons remain elusive.

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By Matina Stevis-Gridneff and Monika Pronczuk

Reporting from Brussels

Under tremendous pressure to come up with billions of dollars to support Ukraine’s military and backfill its members’ own dwindling arsenals, the European Union said Wednesday that it had devised a legal way to use frozen Russian assets to help arm Ukraine, just as it was considering other mechanisms to bolster its defense industries.

The developments are an important milestone, with U.S. funding for Ukraine remaining stuck in Congress and Ukraine’s defenses sagging as shortages of ammunition, artillery shells and missiles force battlefield rationing.

Though the European Union is looking at a number of different ways to find cash for defense purchases, they all face hurdles.

The goal to “make Russia pay” for Ukraine’s arsenal and for its reconstruction has made for a popular slogan among the allies, but parlaying it into actual policy has proved difficult, largely because of legal concerns around liquidating Russian state assets frozen under sanctions.

Now, after months of political wrangling, the European Commission, the E.U. executive branch, has found a way to use the profits from those frozen Russian assets for Ukraine’s benefit, with most of it going to military support for Ukraine.

How the plan will work

Set for approval by E.U. leaders meeting in Brussels on Thursday, the plan could provide Ukraine with up to 3 billion euros, or about $3.25 billion, a year, or as much as 15 billion euros ($16.3 billion) from 2023 to 2027, depending on market conditions. The first payment to Kyiv could be made as soon as July, the commission said on Wednesday.

After Russia’s invasion of Ukraine more than two years ago, Western nations took the unusual step of freezing more than $330 billion in Russian central bank assets held overseas. The bulk of them — over $217 billion — is in the European Union. With payments to Russia blocked by sanctions, Moscow has been unable to gain access to those assets, sell them or benefit from interest earned on them.

As such, cash generated from the assets has remained stuck overseas, with a vast majority held in Belgium by Euroclear, a financial services company. Under the E.U. plan, 97 percent of profits generated by those assets as of Feb. 15 would go to Ukraine. Companies like Euroclear would retain 3 percent to fund ongoing and future litigation by Russia trying to claw back its assets and revenues.

This year, 90 percent of that windfall would go to funding weapons for Ukraine, the commission said, with the rest reserved for the bloc’s fund for the reconstruction of Ukraine.

“The Russians will not be very happy,” Josep Borrell Fontelles, the top E.U. diplomat, said this week. The amount of money, he added, “is not extraordinary, but it is not negligible.”

An earlier version of this plan was delayed twice in the course of 2023 over disagreements among member states and European Central Bank concerns. The bank, the Eurozone’s version of the U.S. Federal Reserve, warned that using assets from another country’s central bank could harm Europe’s reputation as a safe place to store money, which could harm the bloc’s aspiration to increase the international use of its common currency, the euro.

As Mr. Borrell had predicted, the Russians were outraged about the proposal. “This is outright banditry and theft,” said the Russian Foreign Ministry’s spokeswoman, Maria Zakharova, on Thursday, Russia’s TASS news agency reported.

The Kremlin spokesman, Dmitri Peskov, was more restrained. “The Europeans are perfectly aware of the damage that such decisions may cause both to their economy and to their image, their reputation as reliable guarantors of inviolability of property,” Tass quoted him saying.

How else can the E.U. raise money for the war and weaponry?

The revenues from the frozen Russian assets are a start, but the European Union will need billions more to continue supporting Ukraine and bolster its own defense, particularly with the looming possibility of a complete rupture in American aid to Ukraine under a Trump presidency.

Arsenals across the bloc’s 27 members have been depleted after two years of weapons and ammunition transfers to Ukraine. Just as important, the European defense industry says it needs more certainty and upfront investment before it can ramp up production.

Building an integrated military industry is new territory for the European Union, which from its inception has been primarily an economic and trade alliance.

But the need for Europeans to invest in defense has grown more urgent since recent remarks by former President Donald J. Trump, the presumptive Republican presidential nominee. He said last month that he would oppose NATO’s defense of European members who underpaid toward the alliance’s joint defense needs and that he would “encourage” Russia to “do whatever the hell they want” in Europe.

Europeans took note. “For decades, Europe has not invested enough in its security and defense,” said Charles Michel, the president of the European Council, which sets policy priorities, in a letter to the E.U. leaders meeting in Brussels Thursday. “Now that we are facing the biggest security threat since the Second World War, it is high time we take radical and concrete steps to be defense-ready and put the E.U.’s economy on a ‘war footing.’

“This means spending more, and buying more jointly, thus more efficiently,” he added. “We must also help the defense industry access private and public funds.”

At the Thursday summit, E.U. leaders will discuss the idea of having the bloc’s development and climate bank, the European Investment Bank, venture into defense purchases — a major shift in its strategy and purpose from climate change and green energy, highlighting the urgency felt across the European Union to bolster military capabilities.

Some E.U. nations would like the bloc to jointly issue bonds to raise cheap funding for defense. But this is not popular among the richer E.U. nations, most notably Germany. The bloc also maintains the European Peace Facility, an off-budget pot of money that it has slowly tapped for defense purchases for Ukraine. France wants this fund to pay only for made-in-Europe equipment, which is seen as a major limitation given that the European defense industry says it is unable to produce enough quickly to satisfy growing needs.

Meanwhile, E.U. countries operating outside E.U. strictures and structures have been able to act faster to support Ukraine, underscoring the bloc’s rigidities. The Czech Republic has been leading a buyers’ group with other E.U. allies and has already secured 300,000 shells for Ukraine as its stockpiles run dangerously low.

Biden administration officials have made frequent trips to Europe to discuss using Russian assets to aid Ukraine. At a gathering of finance ministers in Brazil last month, Treasury Secretary Janet L. Yellen said that seizing assets outright was a possibility and suggested that there was a legal justification for doing so.

But the meeting was marred by divisions among the policymakers. Some, such as the French finance minister Bruno Le Maire, argued that taking Russian central bank assets directly would violate international law.

Eshe Nelson contributed reporting from Frankfurt, and Alan Rappeport from Washington.

Matina Stevis-Gridneff is the Brussels bureau chief for The Times, leading coverage of the European Union. More about Matina Stevis-Gridneff

Monika Pronczuk is a reporter based in Brussels. She joined The Times in 2020. More about Monika Pronczuk

Our Coverage of the War in Ukraine

News and Analysis

Russian missiles streaked into Kyiv  in the biggest assault on the Ukrainian capital in weeks, injuring several people and damaging several buildings.

Jake Sullivan, President Biden’s top national security official, made a secret trip to Kyiv to meet with President Volodymyr Zelensky and reaffirm the United States’ unwavering commitment to Ukraine.

Under pressure to come up with billions of dollars to support Ukraine’s military, the E.U. said that it had devised a legal way to use frozen Russian assets  to help arm Ukraine.

Symbolism or Strategy?: Ukrainians say that defending places with little strategic value is worth the cost in casualties and weapons , because the attacking Russians pay an even higher price. American officials aren’t so sure.

Elaborate Tales: As the Ukraine war grinds on, the Kremlin has created increasingly complex fabrications online  to discredit Ukraine’s leader, Volodymyr Zelensky, and undermine the country’s support in the West.

Targeting Russia’s Oil Industry: With its army short of ammunition and troops to break the deadlock on the battlefield, Kyiv has increasingly taken the fight beyond the Ukrainian border, attacking oil infrastructure deep in Russian territory .

How We Verify Our Reporting

Our team of visual journalists analyzes satellite images, photographs , videos and radio transmissions  to independently confirm troop movements and other details.

We monitor and authenticate reports on social media, corroborating these with eyewitness accounts and interviews. Read more about our reporting efforts .