yacht fridge compressor

Yachting Monthly

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6 of the best: Marine fridges

• Duncan Kent
• May 4, 2022

Duncan Kent looks at the options for marine fridges on the market and picks out six of the best for your boating needs

Fridges can use a fair bit of power – some more than others. The most energy efficient 12Vdc fridges are the compressor-driven, top-loading type, with thick insulation and good lid seals. Thermo-electric or absorption fridges are the least efficient and can draw up to 200Ah from your batteries in 24 hours.

Many older yachts have simple cool boxes, basically a poorly insulated box with an ill-fitting lid, but they can often be upgraded using an easily available fridge conversion kit, especially those that allow the compressor to be mounted remotely.

Top-entry fridges are ideal for sailing yachts as their contents won’t fall out if opened when heeled. They also retain the cold inside when you open the lid, like a domestic freezer.

As with top-loaders, drawer-style fridges help prevent cold air escaping when opened and keep their contents safe when heeled. They also avoid the need to empty half the fridge out to reach items at the bottom.

Some install domestic 220Vac fridges to save money at purchase against a good quality DC marine fridge. All are front opening, though, and require an inverter to be running permanently when away from your berth, greatly diminishing any savings made.

Commonly, marine fridges have air-cooled condensers, sometimes fan-assisted, which vent into the cabin. Fine in a UK winter, but not in hotter climes so venting them outside will improve efficiency and reduce the cabin temperature. Bluewater cruisers are better off installing a water-cooled condenser, which usually has a bronze cooler plate fixed to the hull underwater.

Best top-opening Marine fridges

Isotherm cruise 41l.

The Isotherm 1410G Cruise is a well-insulated, 41-litre fridge box with a stainless- steel wall liner, a single wire basket and a well-sealed and insulated lid.

It comes with a fan-cooled compressor that can be mounted on the side of the box or remotely within 1.5m of it, making it ideal for retrofitting into an existing cool box area. Clever gas pipe couplings with integral valves enable easy DIY installation and ensure no gas is lost during the process.

Featuring dual fridge and freezer control systems, the fridge is said to draw only 270Wh over a 24hr period and can be set, via the manual thermostat supplied, to operate within a temperature range of between +10° to -10°C.

RRP: £1,090 Buy it now from Cactusnav

DOMETIC COOLMATIC CB40W

The Coolmatic CB40 is a ‘ready to instal’ 40l capacity fridge with a sealed and insulated lid and single wire basket.

The air-cooled, compressor-driven chiller unit features the ubiquitous, low-power Danfoss BD35F compressor with integrated low voltage protection, electronic fuse and automatic polarity protection. The chiller can either be attached to the bottom of the fridge box or remotely within 1.5m of it using integral valve gas pipe couplings.

With a range of cooling from +10°C to -12°C, it comes with a simple to use, built-in manual thermostat.

RRP: £1,053 Buy it now from Dometic

VITRIFRIGO TL43

Available with or without remote couplings for water cooling and with a self-sensing 12/24Vdc compressor, this 43l top-loading fridge box is designed to insert into the existing cool box cavity on a small to medium sized yacht.

The compressor cooling unit can be attached to the box or mounted remotely within 1.4m away and a mechanical thermostat controls the temperature between +10°C to -10°C. The smooth, injection-moulded plastic inner lining also has a small compartment for making ice cubes.

Power consumption is quite miserly at 45W, which at 12V over a 24hr period should only draw around 30-40Ah, depending on the ambient temperature.

RRP: £856 Buy it now from Vitrifrigo

Best front opening marine fridges

On medium to large cruising yachts, it’s often nice to have both top-, and front- opening fridges, the latter often being reserved for use when static.

ISOTHERM CRUISE ELEGANCE

Designed to offer flexibility and efficiency in mobile environments, Isotherm’s Cruise Elegance front-opening fridge comes as standard with smart, brushed aluminium doors that are two inches thick, thereby providing ample insulation where it is most needed.

Unlike most top loaders, this fridge also sports a magnetically sealed freezer compartment for making ice and keeping a limited amount of frozen food in top condition, avoiding the cold air leaking into the general fridge area and icing it up.

As with a domestic fridge, there is space to store tall bottles upright in the door itself. Available in 49l, 65l and 85l capacities.

RRP from: £890 Buy it now from Marine Superstore

KIRAVANS DC50 50L

For those willing to sacrifice a few features to save money, this 50l budget fridge is primarily designed for the caravan/camper market but is equally suitable for small boats.

The main downside being the compressor is permanently attached to the unit and cannot be located remotely, but it fits into the overall box shape so installation shouldn’t be problematic.

The thermostatic controls are almost identical to the more expensive marine models, as are the power requirements (45W @ 12/24V), and they are said to run almost as efficiently.

There’s plenty of room inside for provisions, although no salad box. It also has a large icebox at the top, albeit not double-skinned and sealed like some.

RRP from: £525 Buy it now from kiravans

Best drawer type marine fridges

Drawer-style fridges are not only a great space-saving idea, but they also make finding items much easier than delving into the depths of a top-loader. They can be an expensive option for general use, however.

VITRIFRIGO DW35

The Ocean range of stainless-steel drawer fridges and freezers from Vitrifrigo are elegantly designed with an aesthetically pleasing, brush steel finish.

The DW35 (35l) single drawer fridge or freezer is the latest addition to the range and is ideally sized for a small sailing yacht’s galley. It has a meagre 35W power consumption with autosensing for either 12Vdc or 24Vdc power supplies, plus LED indicated thermostatic control.

They are available in volumes ranging from 35-300 litres, with or without integral iceboxes and a choice of water-, or air-cooled condensers. They also come with a magnetic catch plus a secure latch to prevent them accidentally opening at sea.

RRP from: £1,332 Buy it now from Vitrifrigo

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Refrigeration

Whatever the size of your galley, we have the fridge solution for your sailing boat or yacht, handpicked to give you only the choices we’d want on board. Explore our range of larger  fridge freezers for boats , each with their own innovative functions, or opt for one of our compact  box fridges  – perfect for keeping the drinks chilled. To help wire your fridge in, don’t forget to pick up a  mains rectifier , allowing any compressor fridge to switch automatically between mains and battery power.

Showing all 36 results

Dometic NRX 80C Refrigerator – Fridge / Freezer

Dometic NRX 50C Refrigerator – Fridge / Freezer

Isotherm Refrigerator Cruise Elegance

Dometic NRX 60C Refrigerator – Fridge / Freezer

Isotherm GE80 Fridge Kit

Isotherm 125L Fridge Kit With O Plate

Dometic NRX 35C Refrigerator – Fridge / Freezer

EZA Portable Compressor Cool Box Fridge / Freezer

Waeco CU55 & VD01 Cooling Kit Box

Waeco CU-55 Cold Machine Fridge Compressor

Dometic TropiCool TCX 21

Dometic Waeco Mains Rectifier EPS-100w Cool Power

Trem Portable Fridge Freezer 40L

Dometic VD-15 Air Circulating Evaporator

Dometic Waeco Coolpower MPS 35

Dometic Flush Mount for NRX 80

Dometic Waeco Flush Mount for CRX 65

Dometic Flush Mount for NRX 50 / NRX 35

Dometic Flush Mount for NRX 60

Dometic Waeco Flush Mount Frame CRX 50

Mestic AC UK Mains Adaptor for EZA Portable Fridge

Waeco CRX Fridge Fixing Kits

Waeco CU-54 Compressor Fridge

Dometic VD-07 Fridge O Shaped Evaporator Plate

Waeco CU-85 Compressor Fridge

Dometic Waeco Flush-Mount Frame CRX 80

Dometic VD-02 Flat Shape Evaporator Plate

Dometic VD-05 Flat Evaporator Plate Fridge

Waeco VD-09 O Shaped Evaporator Plate

Dometic VD-18 Flat Plate Evaporator 80 Series

Dometic NRX 115C Refrigerator – Fridge / Freezer

Waeco VD-16 Deep Freeze Air Circulating Evaporator

Dometic Seat For CL-42 Icebox

Dometic Coolbox 55 Litre – CL55

Dometic VD-01 Fridge L Plate Evaporator

Dometic Seat For CL-55 Icebox

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Choosing The Right Marine Refrigerator For Your Boat

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There's no doubt that a way to keep things cold aboard makes your boating life more pleasant. Here's what you need to know.

Having some form of refrigeration aboard your boat is a godsend. It keeps perishables fresh, prevents milk from going sour, and, should you also have the luxury of a good freezer, can store ice cream for delicious relief on hot days.

If you spend a lot of time at the dock where shore power is readily available, or if you have an onboard generator that you use frequently, your best choice may be a 110v AC refrigeration unit. It's relatively inexpensive, dependable, easy to install, and should give you years of trouble-free service. Most boaters don't live at the dock, however. If you spend time cruising and anchoring out, a better option may be to use either a 12v DC unit or an engine-driven refrigeration system.

Here's what you need to know if you're considering adding or replacing a marine refrigerator aboard your boat.

What Is Marine Refrigeration?

Before getting into exactly what refrigeration is, it's important to understand what it is not. It is a common misunderstanding that refrigeration creates cold, but this is not the case. Rather, refrigeration is the transfer of heat from one area to another. Basically, all refrigerators work on the same principle: A gas is compressed and allowed to expand inside an evaporator (the plate that gets cold inside the refrigerator). As the gas expands it absorbs heat which is then dissipated on the outside of the refrigerator, either to air or sometimes through a seawater heat exchanger. The expanded gas then passes back through the compressor and the cycle repeats. Although there are some exceptions, which we'll cover in a moment, most refrigeration systems consist of six principle components: compressor, condenser, expansion valve, evaporator, refrigerant, and thermostat.

Types Of Marine Refrigeration Units

There are three main types of marine refrigeration units: 1. Self-contained units (all-in-one or split systems), 2. thermoelectric, and 3. holding plate systems. Each type has positives and negatives depending on your boat, where you boat, and your marine refrigeration needs.

Self-contained marine refrigeration units. The easiest type of marine refrigeration unit to install is a self-contained unit that looks very similar to one you may have in your home. All the components are typically built into the case with the compressor sitting on a metal tray outside and below the insulated cabinet.

Other self-contained marine refrigeration units are a 12-volt DC split system with the compressor and other components sometimes a fairly considerable distance from the insulated box, which only contains the evaporator plate. Many of these systems are available for DIY installation, with converting an icebox to proper refrigeration a popular upgrade.

The simple installation of only two major components — compressor and evaporator — make these units very popular, and they have greatly improved in recent years. The compressor cycles on and off as the box warms and cools. The amount of time it runs depends on the unit, whether it is raw-water or air cooled, and the amount and type of insulation encasing the cold compartment. While these units draw relatively little current, the total amperage draw over a 24-hour period can be more than the boat's electrical system can handle. A close evaluation of your boat's battery size and recharge capability is in order when installing a 12v DC refrigeration system.

Thermoelectric systems. Thermoelectric refrigeration is the exception to the rule and uses no refrigerant. It is also 12v DC powered but uses what is known as the Peltier effect and has no moving parts except a heat-dissipating fan. These quiet units can last a lifetime, and installation is simple, but they're not for every boat. They're far less efficient than other types, requiring more amps to cool a box. They'll cool the box to 40 to 50 degrees below ambient temperature, which is inadequate for the tropics and other hot weather areas, and possibly not worth the power drain.

Holding plate systems. Engine-driven systems with holding plates are the most powerful system for those wanting deep freezes and lots of ice. The compressor typically runs only once or twice a day for short periods, assuming adequate insulation in the box. However, the initial cost is far more than the cost of a 12v DC unit and it is more complicated, so there's a greater potential for problems. If you consider an engine-driven compressor, factor in the cost of labor of mounting the compressor on the engine itself rather than on a nearby stringer. This allows the compressor to vibrate and move with the engine, resulting in less wear and tear on bearings. Also consider that you will not want the compressor to block access to other components. Usually this type of unit is installed by qualified professionals while other types of 12-volt units are easier to install by a "do-it-yourselfer." Some units have two refrigerant channels in the holding plates with the option of separate AC or DC run compressors for use when plugged in to the dock.

Look for marine-grade construction materials. Most holding plates are made of electropolished or powder-coated stainless steel which is corrosion-resistant and attractive. Water-cooled condensers exposed to seawater should be made of a noncorrosive material such as cupronickel. Marine-grade materials add to the initial cost of the unit, but if you're going to make this kind of investment, buy a dependable unit that will last. Check the manufacturer's warranty — longer is better.

Powering A Refrigerator

There are basically three options when it comes to powering refrigeration: 1. AC units that are powered either from a shore power connection or generator, 2. DC units that run from a boat's battery bank, and 3. engine-driven units that have a compressor powered by a belt running from the engine.

Most 12v DC units come with an air-cooled condenser, although a water-cooled condenser, often an upgrade, is preferable, especially in warmer climates. Water cooling is more efficient, so you get greater cooling capacity with a smaller unit, and they can be installed almost anywhere. Air-cooled condensers must be mounted where they can be ventilated to dissipate the high heat removed from the ice box. For 12vDC running at dockside, simply plug in your battery charger and replace the battery power you're using. Away from the dock, your primary consideration is how often and how long you must run your engine to have ice and cold food. Having a dedicated battery bank for your refrigeration unit is a good idea, but remember that you still have to run your engine, generator, or have a wind generator or solar panel to recharge the battery. You can increase your options with an AC/DC refrigerator or icemaker. The dual-voltage units switch from AC to DC automatically when the AC power source is shut off.

Converting An Icebox

If you plan to convert your existing ice box to a refrigerator and/or freezer using a conversion kit, pay special attention to the box's insulation. Heat loss through leakage can be cut in half by increasing the insulation from 2 to 6 inches. Most refrigeration manufacturers will be happy to provide you with good information for properly insulating and/or building an ice box for use with their units.

Portable units can be a popular alternative for some boats that do not have space for a permanently installed refrigerator. They're a smaller, lighter, and a convenient alternative to hauling that heavy, bulky cooler of ice on every outing. But, typically, they don’t cool as well as a permanently installed unit.

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The Boat Galley

making boat life better

Adding or Changing a Boat Refrigerator

Published on April 29, 2011 ; last updated on June 18, 2020 by Carolyn Shearlock

If you’re installing a boat refrigerator for the first time, or doing a major upgrade on your existing system, you may be overwhelmed by the decisions you’re having to make simultaneously.  Perhaps a few thoughts here will provide a framework.

Like many things in cruising, from your choice of boat to the route you take, there are no universal answers in choosing a boat refrigerator system.  But understanding how one decision will impact others can narrow down the range of appropriate choices for your situation.

Four Parts to a Boat Refrigerator

Adding or upgrading a boat refrigerator isn’t like going out to an appliance store, buying the one you like and having it delivered.  On a boat, you need to consider:

• Power and how you’ll supply it
• Where you’ll install the compressor
• The box – size, location and construction all must be considered
• What brand?

They all have to work together to make having refrigeration pleasant, as opposed to a frustration.

(UPDATE:  Since I originally wrote this article, we purchased an Engel refrigerator/freezer to use as stand-alone freezer and absolutely love it — see the full article on them here .)

For most cruisers, the first questions with regards to refrigeration are “how much power will it use?” and “how can I provide the power?”

Your other choices will determine how much power the refrigerator uses, as will even your choice of how you power it.  If your refrigerator is next to the engine compartment, as is typical on many boats (a serious design flaw), running the engine to provide power – whether via alternator to the batteries or directly for an engine-driven system – actually will heat up the box and cause you to need even more power to cool it down.  The same is true if the refrigerator is next to a generator compartment.

Relatively few boats opt for engine-driven refrigeration any more.  With an engine-driven system, you run the engine a couple of times a day, generally for 30 to 60 minutes at a time, to cool down large chill plates that then keep the box cool until the next run time.  There are several disadvantages to this system:

• You’re tied to a schedule for running the engine – even if you’re at the dock, anchored or sailing along with plenty of wind.
• The temperature in the box fluctuates over the course of the day, particularly in warm climates.
• It’s almost impossible to have a freezer with an engine-driven system.
• If you have a problem with your engine, you’ve just lost your refrigerator as well.
• Fuel cost and engine maintenance add up, not to mention the extra engine hours you’ll rack up.

Read more about the disadvantages of engine-driven refrigeration .

While some large boats opt for 110-volt systems using generators and inverters, and I’ve known a couple of trawlers that used RV propane systems (as did our Gemini catamaran when we bought it; see why we switched to 12 volt ), by far the majority of family cruisers opt for 12-volt systems.  A 12-volt system operates off the main battery bank, and power for it can be generated any way you’d otherwise charge the batteries:  solar, wind, towing generator, alternator, shore power or generator.  Most boats use a combination, and virtually all have to increase their power generation capabilities when they install refrigeration if they haven’t had it before.

Two things to consider with a 12-volt system:

• If you are heading from a relatively cool climate to a hot one (say, going from San Francisco to the Sea of Cortez or Maine to the Caribbean), expect to use a lot more power for your refrigeration than you’re accustomed to.  Lots of boats coming to the Sea of Cortez found themselves scurrying to add solar panels or buy a generator as the weather warmed up.
• Make sure your battery bank is sized for the load you’ll be putting on it.  Every system is different as to how efficient it is (more on this later), but it’s likely you’ll need 100 amp-hours or more a day if you’re in a hot climate.

More and more boat refrigerators are coming as all-in-one units but many still have a separate compressor. If you choose one with a separate compressor, it’s worth taking a bit of time to think about where you can – and where you should – place the compressor.

Yes, you have to find a spot where there is room and that may seriously limit the choices.  But don’t just opt for the first place you find.

In simple terms, most compressors work by transporting heat from the refrigerant to the air around it.   It will operate much more efficiently if there is good air flow around it – and if it is kept as cool as possible and if the air that reaches it is as cool as possible.

Therefore, putting the compressor in the engine compartment is not good.  Nor is putting it in any enclosed location with only small louvers for air circulation.  NOTE:  A few systems use a keel cooler that transfers heat to the water instead of air cooling — with these there is little choice in placement.

You also have to consider distance from refrigerator box, as the refrigerant has to make a full loop from the compressor to the evaporator in the box and back.  Bends in the tubing and also a long distance make for more resistance to circulation of the refrigerant and hence a less efficient system.  Be sure to check the specs before buying a compressor to be sure that it will work in your planned location.

And another important consideration is access for maintenance, recharging the system and other repairs.  Okay, so access is never good on a boat.  But at least don’t put it where you have to stand on your head or dismount the compressor to check a trouble light or recharge the system.

Ten years ago, the “box” for most boat refrigerators was custom made.  Now, far more are drop-in units. Either way, you have a number of choices to make.

Top-loading or front-loading?

If you’re used to a “shore” refrigerator, front loading just seems so much more natural.  And yes, it’s usually easier to see what’s there.  But front loaders have a nasty tendency to have food fall out if the boat moves while the door is open.  And you need to install clear plastic strips to keep as much cold air in the refrigerator as possible when the door is open.  And the opening needs to be either fore or aft facing in a sailboat – otherwise everything will fall out on one tack or the other.

After taking a bit of time to get used to it, I actually preferred my top loader.  With a bunch of bins to keep things organized, I could find things quickly.  And they stayed in place, no matter what tack we were on or how rough the seas.  I was even able to open the refrigerator and make sandwiches while we were riding out a hurricane at anchor and rolling gunwale to gunwale.

On our current boat, a catamaran, we have a front loader and I’m struck by how much more often I have to defrost because every time I open the door, warm moist air rushes in.

Size of a Boat Refrigerator

To some extent, a smaller refrigerator is more efficient as there is less space to cool.  And yes, having a refrigerator full of cold items as opposed to air is more efficient.  But you also need some air space in the refrigerator for that “cool” to circulate.  And if things are so tightly packed that you have to remove half of what’s in the refrigerator to get the item you need out, that’s not efficient, either.

A very deep refrigerator can pose problems.  One of the top gripes for many women is “standing on my head to get things out of the frig bottom.”  (From Mary, on Facebook.)

And let’s face it, you want a refrigerator that’s large enough to hold what you want it to.  And that’s a personal “feeling” — you may want enough meat, drinks and veggies for a month at a time, or just food for a weekend.  Read my related article on Reducing What You Store in the Refrigerator , though, before making a decision on how much space you need.

If you’re just re-doing the refrigerator, you’re probably more or less locked in to a location.  But if you’re re-doing the galley, the top priority should be to keep the refrigerator away from the engine compartment (generator compartment if that’s an issue, too).  Second priority would be to keep the refrigerator away from the hull and the sun heating it up.  The more it’s away from anywhere that sun will beat down on it (such as next to the companionway), the better.

In general, the thicker and higher the R-value, the better.  Materials are constantly evolving, so I won’t make specific recommendations.  Of course, if you have a limited space, the thickness of insulation is a tradeoff with space inside the refrigerator.

General design

A lid that latches down (instead of just being held by gravity or a magnetic strip) with a thick gasket is best for your boat refrigerator – far less cold air will seep out.  The lid won’t fly across the boat in a knockdown, either!

An outside surface (surround) that reflects heat will also do wonders to help your refrigerator run more efficiently.  Que Tal had a teak surround that frequently got warm to the touch in summer – you know that’s not good.

If you decide to put a drain in the bottom for when you defrost, it needs to have a trap in it – and the trap needs to be within the insulated area.  An alternative is to be able to securely close the drain.  Otherwise, hot air from the bilge (well, maybe not hot , but hotter than what’s in the refrigerator) will rise into the refrigerator and you’ll constantly be having to cool it.

There are all sorts of design possibilities for having either a separate freezer or a freezer compartment within the refrigerator.  The size of the freezer determines how much meat you can carry, as well as how many meals you can prepare ahead for a passage.  But it takes a lot of energy to freeze foods in the first place, although not a lot to keep a full freezer frozen.

My freezer was about ½ cubic foot, and I found it adequate (I boned all meat before freezing so as not to waste space on non-edible items), but I would have loved a larger one.  If you want to have ice, remember to allow room for trays (be sure to get the vertical ones) in addition to food.  Note that very few boat freezers are cold enough to keep ice cream.

I now use a Engle Portable unit as a dedicated freezer and love it — and it will freeze ice cream, even on the hottest days.

The Brand of Your Boat Refrigerator

The longer we cruised, the more adamant we became about buying brands – and models within brands – that lots of other cruisers were using or that were composed of generic parts.  Regardless of whether it was refrigeration or another system, we found over and over again that having something that other people – both helpful cruisers and local repairmen – knew of and could get parts for was worth not necessarily having the “latest and greatest.”

Good repair manuals that you can actually get, off the shelf parts, and universal fittings are crucial once you’re away from the original installer.  I also like companies that will respond to technical support questions by e-mail (you don’t want to deal with support issues by sat phone).  The time to think about these issues is before you plunk your money down.

As you work through these questions, you’ll almost certainly have to make some compromises to end up with a boat refrigerator system that works for you.  The trick is to realize the tradeoffs as you’re making them, and not after the fact when things aren’t working the way you envisioned.  For example, a tiny box with thick insulation won’t use much power – but will it give you the food and drinks you want?

A refrigerator is an expensive piece of galley equipment – even more so if you have to add extra batteries and upgrade your power generation.  As brands and models are always changing, I don’t want to recommend specific systems.  But as you talk to sales reps, realize that there are numerous components to the refrigeration system, and choices in each affect the others . . . and your ultimate satisfaction!

And check out our other courses and products

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Reader Interactions

Downeaster32 says

April 3, 2012 at 10:48 pm

Most compressors have a single fan, and this is typically mounted to blow from the cabin on to the compressor and into the locker. I believe a big chunk of efficiency can be gained by adding another fan. The fans do not take much power themselves (small computer case fans). One fan is the intake which draws air over the compressor & cooling coils inside whatever locker they’re mounted. The second fan is an exhaust, which pulls the now-warmed air back out of the locker and into the cabin again. In my setup, the fans are pointed 90 degrees from each other, on each side of a corner locker. I don’t have comparison power measurements, I just notice the fridge seems to run much less and the locker stays much much cooler (and fresher smelling too).

Renato says

August 10, 2012 at 10:47 pm

The most perfect explanation about refrigeration for small boats I have seen yet. Renato, Rio de Janeiro city, Brazil. Thanks a lot !

January 30, 2013 at 2:18 pm

Hi,Thanks for your explanation. Given I am doing a full refit on my yacht your explanation helped in that I have a lot more to think about in what we need to do before I go ahead and make that final decision. Thanks a lot… David “Pelikan” Singapore

June 27, 2013 at 2:13 pm

Nicely done and THANKS!

I’m in the planning stages of building (I hope) a 44 footer to live aboard/cruise full time. I came across your article in doing research and greatly appreciate the explanation given. I had looked at “normal” marine refrigerator/freezers that look similar to home units but run off 12v or 24v when not connected to shore power. Your article has me leaning much more towards a custom built top loading system now, especially since I can add much more insulation in a custom system and therefor use much less power.

Randy Mabry says

December 24, 2021 at 6:56 pm

You can add as much insulation (rigid foam) to a off-shelf front-loading refrigerator as you commit space for. Just attach to the outside of the refrig 3 sides ( sometimes additionally bottom & back sides. I also insulated the Inside of the hull wall in the locker (1″ rigid foam). As suggested earlier. i added a box fan blowing on the refrig coils controled by easily available 12v thermocouple set to come on at locker temp 95 deg.

Billy Forde says

November 15, 2013 at 11:48 am

There is an insulation product called Spaceloft. Search for it on ebay. I wrapped my top loading box in this and could not believe the difference. Its a bit expensive but amazing insulation. It more than halved the time the compressor runs. My box is now more cold and requires less than half the power to keep it that way. The point about the 2 fans is a very good one. I’m going to try that. It makes perfect sense to me to expel the warm air the fan has extracted from the heat exchanger. Also cold air sinks, when you open a top loader very little cold air escapes as colder air naturally falls back into the sealed compartment. When you open a front opening fridge almost all the cold air flows out the bottom like water and warm air rushes in to the top of the fridge so forget about a front opener. Sail on and remember you can never know too much!!

P. Childs says

May 12, 2015 at 10:00 pm

The simplest system with the least power draw is an Engel. No more antiquated 1940 technology components and systems that won’t freeze ice cream. The ONLY system on our boat that is dependable, modestly priced and outperforms day in and day out is our Engel. Small amperage draw, and can be either cooler or freezer, instantly, on your command of the thermostat. it will automatically revert to 110 or 12v when changing from shore to ship power. We love the portable marine unit, but would like to take it a step further and throw the cold plate amp hog nightmare overboard and replace with a drop in Engel or another Engel portable. We could have three more Engels for the amount of wasted money poured into maintaining the antiquity of cold plates, lines, and pumps.

Mike Wilson says

May 13, 2015 at 8:25 am

Could not agree more with regarding junking the hold plates. Mexicolder has been advocating this for years. Portable systems are good put truly lack insulation which is the cornerstone to success and thus the amp draw in super hot climes like the Sea of Cortez….day after day 100F PLUS. Mexicolder has a long proven track record in this respect. We use a double fan cooled condenser, they only way in serious heat as a static coil is not enough.

captain ron says

May 23, 2015 at 6:33 am

Yes i keep 2 of then . one 80 lt freezer witch i run the boat motor until it freezes to minus 10 and have ready made frozen meals already made up and sealed . then i only open it once every few days and take out what i need and put into a 2 nd fride at 3 deg and use at will . the freezer uses very little power when all is frozen . u carnt keep opening it all day long to get out food and drink or it won,t stay frozen .Every months or so i refill it with prepared meals and freeze it down solid again .

Frank Collins says

September 30, 2015 at 7:13 pm

I also found it helpful to purchase a small RV refrigerator fan. The fan circulates the cold air and runs a week or so on 2 “D” batteries. On EBAY the run about $20.. I put the small fan box as close to the freezer as possible

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Fine-tuning Fridge Efficiency

A look at refer controls and marine refrigeration trends..

Right alongside turning lead into gold and the quest for perpetual motion, the sailors hunt for low-energy ways to keep things cold resides in the realm of too good to be true. Yes, sailboat refrigeration systems can be made more efficient, and skippers can reshuffle the way in which cooling-or more accurately, heat removal-takes place. But the fact remains that turning water into ice demands energy, and that energy has to come from somewhere.

In this update to our marine refrigeration tests (PS, April and June 2009), we evaluate a new product and review recent trends in marine refrigeration. We also look at why manufacturers have settled on electrically driven, hermetically sealed compressors and larger battery banks and alternators.

Fridges gobble amps. With large battery banks, you can get away with a weekend amp-hour splurge, and hold off on serious charging until youre back in your boat slip. You might even get away with this for weekends in a row without needing to buy a high-output alternator. But when a long-term cruise is in the cards, trying to manage energy input and output becomes an electron juggling act.

A small DC compressor seems modest in current demand, often rated at around 4 or 5 amps when running in a 12-volt DC system. However, the devil is in the details, and in this case, the killer is the duty cycle, or how long the unit actually runs during a 24-hour period. Ambient temperature, run time, box size, and insulation efficiency help dictate the actual number of watts or amp-hours consumed. Theres a big difference in energy demand between those cruising Maine in May with a well-insulated refrigerator and those roaming around Florida in the summer with a poorly insulated box. The energy demand of the latter can easily double that of the former.

In the days of mechanical refrigeration, when belt-driven automotive air-conditioning compressors were bolted to the diesel, box temperature was like a bipolar mood swing.

At the heart of the problem was the hour or two of engine run time required to freeze the eutectic solution in the holding plate(s). Like metal sequels to block ice, the plates kept the fridge cold while the engine was off. Run time revolved around cooling capacity, and because the process wasnt temperature regulated, freezing the lettuce and melting the ice cream was accepted as part of the excitement of boating.

The upside of the mechanical approach was rapid cooling and low electrical demand of these systems. In a way, mechanical refrigeration was quite a miracle-when it worked. Unfortunately, maintenance costs often surpassed the cost of the unit itself. Multiple belts, brackets, hose connections, and junctions kept so-called freon jockeys in high demand.

The trend today is toward more reliable, electrically driven compressors that automatically cycle on and off. Temperature ranges are more tightly controlled; lettuce doesn’t freeze, and the ice cream stays hard. Impromptu freezer parties have become a thing of the past, but the cost of reliable, temperature-stable refrigeration involves a hefty investment in a battery bank (12- or 24-volt DC) and charging system.

As marine refrigeration guru Mike Adler predicted 30 years ago, Danfosss hermetically sealed compressors (BD35F and BD50F) are now the standard for sailboats. This design, which places the electric motor, drive shaft, and compressor in an airtight canister, eliminates an old Achilles heel-unnerving leaks at the driveshaft seal. Replacing the mechanical commutator with an electronic controller was another big evolutionary step.

These rugged little units get high reliability ratings, but their capacity for heat removal-measured in British thermal units (BTU)-is quite modest. (One BTU equals the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of 1 pound of water l degree.)

When compared with bygone, mechanically driven compressors, the modest Danfoss units perform like a trusty 3-horsepower outboard next to a 9.9-horsepower kicker. Both will get you from A to B, but the former will have to run a lot longer.

Intelligent Control

A new trend toward smart controllers make the Danfoss units even more efficient by automatically conforming to the vessels varied charging routine. This involves altering compressor RPM to make better use of surplus energy. Built into these aftermarket compressor control units is a means to vary the RPM rate. When the controller senses higher voltage associated with charging, it speeds up the compressor, allowing more refrigerant to pass through the evaporator or holding plate.

Danfoss introduced its own automatic control module in 2003, but few fridge manufacturers incorporated it into their systems. More recently, entrepreneurial engineers began tweaking the control algorithms and introducing their own controllers.

In the April 2009 issue, we tested the programmable Sensistat from SCAD Marine ($300), and in the June 2009 fridge test, we looked at the Frigoboat Speed Board ($40), a simple controller that lets you manually adjust the RPM on a Danfoss-compressor. Both products proved advantageous for certain types of cruising sailors.

This month, we look at the $150 automatic Smart Energy Controller (SEC) from Isotherm, a division of Indel-Webasto and a major player in the marine and RV markets. Generally, the controllers functions overlap those of the Sensistat, which has a little more programming flexibility and a digital display. Frigoboat has since introduced the Merlin ($135), an automatic controller similar to the Isotherm SEC.

Isotherms engineers recognize that an alternator puts out its maximum charge rate for a very short period. Once the batteries have reached a certain state of charge, the alternator (or any other DC power source) offers a source of untapped energy. By creating smart refrigeration controllers that can sense these periods of electrical abundance, more efficient cooling can take place.

Conversely, when the batteries arent charging, the smart controller can dial back the RPM of the compressor and use less current. The slowest RPM for a Danfoss BD35F or 50F compressor is 2,000 RPM; the highest is 3,500 RPM. The default setting on most off-the-shelf fridge packages varies, but is usually set around 2,500 RPM. The current requirements of running at the maximum 3,500 RPM are significant. We recorded a 50-percent increase in power usage when the charging voltage rose to 14.6 volts and the compressor automatically jumped from the default of about 2,500 RPM to the maximum. One of our aims was to find out just how much cooling benefit we got from those extra RPM.

Back in April 2006, our evaluation of the Danfoss BD35F and 50F hermetically sealed compressors and evaporator systems showed why these systems have a firm hold on the marine refrigeration market. They are very reliable, efficient and nearly silent partners aboard a sailboat. The aluminum evaporators will corrode, but we have had units go well beyond the decade milestone.

That test was our first experience with the Frigoboat Smart Board. Easy to install, the Smart Board plugged right into male spade connectors on the Danfoss controller box. A potentiometer allowed the user to manually change the compressor from 2,000 to 3,500 RPMs.

As the coefficient of performance (COP) curves for the Danfoss BD50 indicate (see table), theres slightly more efficiency gained at the low end of the RPM range. Running the maximum RPM amounted to approximately a 60-percent increase in BTU removal rate (at 30 degrees), but the jump from lowest to highest RPM results in an 80-percent increase in power demand. Dialing up the RPM manually works, so long as you are paying close attention to the state of your battery.

Like the Smart Board, the Isotherm SEC regulates compressor RPM spanning the 2,000 to 3,500 range. But it does it automatically. At the low end, less current is consumed but less coolant is circulated through the evaporator or holding plate. By changing the resistance in the controller, the RPM can be increased, sending more 134A through the system, and boosting capacity.

In order to determine whether or not the Isotherm SECs automated approach made sense, we looked at co-efficient of performance curves for the BD50F compressor and did our own testing to validate input/output energy ratios. In short, we tracked how power (watts) fed to the compressor linked to cooling changes in the evaporator.

At the end of the day, we found that efficiency is more a matter of timing than compressor RPM. Ideally, every time you need maximum chill to cool down those warm beverages, you have extra amps available. And every time you drop the hook, your fridge is full of frozen peas acting as eutectic solution and slowing down the loss of heat. Fridge temperature, availability of extra charging amps, and efficient thermostatic control can be merged to find a sweet spot.

Isotherm touts at least a 35-percent power savings, up to 50 percent when combined with the cooling effects of stored energy in food and drinks. We found we could increase efficiency by 15 to 25 percent using the Isotherm, and about 35 percent when chilled food or drinks were helping keep the box cold.

As might be assumed, the unit used more power at higher compressor RPM than at low RPM. In the 20- to 45-

degree temperature range, increasing from 2,000 RPM to 3,500-RPM gobbled up roughly 4.5 amps. Looking at the coefficients of performance in this range shows that the energy savings at low RPM and the capacity increase at higher RPM balance out, regardless of RPM. More energy equals more capacity.

As long as extra alternator capacity is available, optimum battery charging and full-power Danfoss operation can coexist. A 20-minute run into or out of the harbor wont be much help. But when motoring through a calm, or enjoying a midday spike in solar-panel or wind-generator output, banking this extra energy as extra coolness in the box will ease the load on the battery bank. These energy-abundant periods are also the time to load up the warm beer or stick some water in trays to make ice cubes.

Insulation is the other side of the efficiency coin, and it involves no moving parts and no electrical consumption to run. We are always surprised by how many new-boat manufacturers tout the cubic footage of the box but fail to mention insulation specs. Some have the refrigerator next to the engine compartment, while others place the refer/freezer up against the black gel-coated hull. Fridge design is worth more serious consideration.

The real villain when it comes to low-energy refrigeration is how much warm stuff to keep putting in the box. It makes sense to avoid loading up the fridge with warm groceries during the time of day with the highest current demand.

Keep in mind that battery bank discharge is not linear, and just because you might be able to draw 5 amps for 24 hours before a fully charged house bank is fully discharged, this doesn’t mean that you can draw 20 amps for six hours. Both scenarios amount to 120 amp hours of current use, but battery capacity is much greater when the rate of energy withdrawal is lower. Therefore, make sure that you stuff in the warm groceries when the other loads on the house bank are at their lowest, or even better, when youre motoring or when alternate energy inputs are peaking.

For the BTU-conscious cruiser who cares about hoarding amps, the $150 spent on the Isotherm SEC can yield returns, but not miracles. Based on our tests, a vigilant cruiser with a well-designed fridge and ample charging capability could do fine with a manual control or none at all, but the key word is vigilant. With so many other systems to track onboard, sometimes its nice to let someone else watch the fridge for us.

isotherm, 800/394-3954, www.isothermengineering.com

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Marine Refrigeration Options for Boats and Yachts: What’s Available? 

Finding the best refrigerator or freezer for your boat or yacht can be a surprisingly difficult challenge. Through our over forty-five years in business as a marine refrigeration manufacturer, Frigibar has recognized that the most difficult aspect of finding the right unit is knowing what’s available from manufacturers, and then deciding what type of option will fit your exact needs.

We’ve put together this list of all of your options for marine refrigeration systems broken down by style. We also highlight companies in addition to Frigibar who manufacture marine refrigeration systems.

Regardless of whether you’re building a vessel from scratch, just looking to upgrade your freezer, or refurbishing a historic beauty back to her original state, this guide will outline the different styles and companies in the industry, helping you to find the perfect fit for your vessel.

Styles of Refrigerators and Freezers

There are nine popular styles of marine refrigerator and freezer systems in all different price ranges and of varying finishes. Choosing the style that will best fit your boat is just the first step in finding the right freezer or refrigerator, but a very important one to make before moving on to the next step of the process, which is finding the ideal size and manufacturer.

Bench-Style

A bench-style freezer is one of the most useful types of marine freezers. They conveniently fit in many locations, including the deck or galley, provide significant storage space, and their short stature keeps them from obstructing views. Bench-style units are also common among fish boxes, dock boxes, and ice chests.

A primary benefit of bench-style freezers is their versatility, as many can be customized to double as a seating option. Frigibar, for example, offers custom cushions as an upgrade to maximize your available seating space.

Bench-style units can range anywhere from 30-80” long and are usually around 20-22” wide and 17”-24” tall. This is the preferred style of freezer at Frigibar due to its versatility, durability, and ease of use.

The upright freezers and refrigerators used in our homes are also manufactured for the marine industry. Pictured is an Electrolux upright freezer. Similar to the ones found in our homes, you can also find combination units that are both freezers and refrigerators.

While they bring the comfort of home to your boat, upright units require a location on your vessel with proper height clearance, are typically located in the galley, and are not designed to be moved from one location on your boat to another. They are not recommended for outdoor use on your dock or bow.

Portable freezers allow greater versatility than other refrigeration options and are among the most inexpensive options. There is a wide variety of portable units in terms of size, price, and quality.

These self-contained units are constructed from durable plastics and there are many styles available. Portable units are easily purchased online and at large marine supply stores like WestMarine.com. Many run off of a traditional outlet plug or a cigarette lighter. A built-in control panel and temperature readouts to make sure your food is kept at a safe temperature are some of the features you may find on higher end portable refrigerator/freezer options.

Pictured above is a portable Koolatron Krusader, which can be used to both cool and warm drinks and food.

Portable options are convenient for day trips and when in a pinch when a little extra space is needed or for a simple specific purpose — like keeping a couple of packs of beer cold while fishing for a few hours. Depending on the brand and intended purpose, their lifespans, power options and power consumption levels will vary.

Compact/Mini-Fridge

Small and compact refrigeration options are popular for vessels due to the limited amount of space that is available. Compact refrigerators and freezers, also known as a mini-fridge, can weigh around 60 pounds and have mounting options to fix the unit onto your vessel. Pictured below is a Dometic CR-1050, and retails for around $1,000.

Similar to portable options, mini-fridges have limited space, but can provide a safe and longer term cooling and freezing option than most portable units. If choosing to go with a compact option, purchase a unit intended for a boat, as it will run more efficiently than household units and traditionally last longer because they are built with materials specifically designed to be on a vessel. This option usually provides a refrigerator compartment as the main storage area, with a small freezer compartment at the top of the unit. There are, however, products in this category that come as a full freezer or only a refrigerator to suit your needs.

Wine coolers or wine refrigerators also fit into this category and are of similar size. They are designed specifically for storing wine at optimal temperatures and are a popular option for yacht owners.

Side-by-Side

Pictured above is a Nova Kool side-by-side refrigerator/freezer. Side-by-side units are often found on houseboats and can be both compact or full size for the galley. They offer more room and versatility than a single compact refrigerator or freezer.

Drawer units are stylish and can be hidden behind an attractive exterior door or paneling. Premium models can provide both refrigeration and freezing options without having to find a large space to place the unit. This option has become increasingly popular and there are many styles of drawer freezer/refrigerators available. The pictured drawer unit is an Isotherm Drawer 65 refrigerator and freezer, and is available at SailorSams.com, which also offers Frigibar freezers.

Conversion Kits

Conversion kits allow you to turn a standard icebox into a refrigerator or freezer. Pictured above are the Frigibar LectricIceman models (“EVH” left, and “A/E” right). The LectricIceman are DC marine icebox conversion kits and are highly efficient.

When purchasing a conversion kit, pay close attention to the maximum size of box the kit will accommodate and if there is a freezer compartment, which our EVH model does not have but the Frigibar A/E LectricIceman does have. There are a few important factors when converting an existing compartment into a freezer or refrigerator. Making sure the conditions of the space you wish to convert meet important requirements will determine how effective this option is for your vessel. View Frigibar’s conversion kits here .

Drop-In Freezer

A drop-in freezer is a fully-functioning freezer system that can be “dropped-in” to an existing space fit for the freezer. Pictured above is an Engel top-opening drop-in freezer unit. Dimensions need to be carefully measured before installation and compressor mounting needs to be considered before choosing a unit that will work for your boat. Top opening freezers and refrigerators are more efficient than front opening units since the cold air does not fall out of the unit when the door is open. If you are limited on space and not able to swing open a front-mounted door, this style of top-opening freezer could be a great solution.

Every boat owner, captain, and crew are unique. To get the most out of your adventures on the water, you may prefer a completely custom marine refrigeration system. Companies like Frigibar have been making custom systems for over 45 years.

The best place to start is by knowing the exact dimensions of the space you have available and what style and material you’d like your custom unit to be. You can then approach builders and manufacturers to get quotes and feedback on what is possible. If considering a DIY project, consult with a certified refrigeration technician to avoid common pitfalls and to make sure you aren’t getting into a time-consuming and costly project you aren’t prepared for.

Pricing/Quality

Ultimately, your decision as to what refrigerator or freezer is best for your vessel will come down to the space you have available , the style of system desired, what you want to use the unit for, and price.

Consider the company you’re purchasing from and their specialized niche. At Frigibar, we’ve focused on marine refrigeration options for the marine industry for over four decades. We know what will function properly on your deck in 100-degree weather out on the ocean and what will best fit your week-long or month-long international voyage or weekend jaunt in the bay.

You should also have a firm grasp on the company’s warranty options and if their units are serviceable by any certified refrigeration technician. At Frigibar we feel the more information you have on the options available, the better decision you will be equipped to make. We are happy to help guide you towards the best solution for your refrigeration needs even if it’s not ours. If you’re looking for additional information and would like to speak with someone directly, Frigibar is here to answer your questions. Call us at 305-757-7697.

Marine Refrigeration Companies

• Frigibar Industries, Inc.
• West Marine
• CoolBlue Marine Refrigeration
• Bowman Refrigeration
• Integrated Marine Systems

Additional Marine Refrigeration Resources on Your Available Options:

• Selecting Refrigeration for Your Boat
• Choosing the Perfect Refrigeration for your Boat
• Marine Refrigeration

Also watch “ What Should I Consider When Looking for a Freezer for My Boat? ”

Best Marine Refrigerators

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

May 4, 2023

‍ ‍ ‍ Key Takeaways

• Most marine refrigerators have reliable energy efficiency and great cooling ability
• Avoid brands that have bad marine refrigerator reviews and poor customer service
• Many brands offer options for a power source and are compatible with a solar panel
• Take measurements of your desired space for a fridge and get one that is space saving
• Some boaters like a silent operation if it is near where they sleep

‍ Long boating trips are best when you can save food with a boat refrigerator. So who makes the best marine refrigerator?

The best marine refrigerators are the Costway Compact Fridge, Alpicool C20, and ICECO VL60. Marine refrigerator brands make various sizes, with different prices, and intended use to compliment your boat. Depending on your intended use will matter to the efficiency of the boat fridge.

In my experience, a boat fridge saves you money with storing groceries and keeping drinks cold on a hot day. If you plan on spending more than a day on a boat then you should try to find the best marine refrigerator for you.

Table of contents

‍ ‍ ‍ The Top 11 Best Marine Refrigerators

The most efficient marine refrigeration system is indispensable to boating enthusiasts who consider life on water their mantra. Marine fridges can elevate the experience of seafarers and dock dwellers alike while also maintaining the palatability of consumables regardless of the voyage's duration.

Optimal marine refrigerators, such as those outlined below, guarantee the sustenance of provisions during extended expeditions. With portable refrigerators or ones you install for boating, your galley is no longer confined to the shore.

Costway Compact Car Freezer

This cost-effective fridge packs a punch and is perfect for extended camping or fishing expeditions with impressive cooling abilities and ample storage capacity even in extreme heat. It can function as a fridge or freezer and operates efficiently with portable solar panels.

The roomy interior can accommodate beverages and fresh ingredients. Some users reported that the AC adapter’s lifespan is a concern and occasional temperature problems have been reported.

• Lower cost compared to other marine refrigerators
• Solid amount of space inside
• Energy efficient
• AC adapter could be better
• Temperature settings can move off of desired number

​​Alpicool C20

The Alpicool marine refrigerator boasts a lot of positives. It offers power-saving with its ECO mode and uses roughly 240 watts over the course of an entire day.

After disconnecting from a power source you can still have it powered through a battery and even use solar if you have that setup. It is a little on the small side but perfect for just one or two people wanting to keep their food cold.

• Does not use a lot of power throughout the day
• Lightweight and quiet
• Great job at providing cold air
• Not as large as other marine fridges
• Some may not want a portable refrigerator

A handful of user reviews have stated that this marine refrigerator is something that they would consider tough and made out of marine grade materials. This is a great option for chilled food items on both land and sea no matter the ambient temperature.

It can withstand the elements but do not leave it out for long periods of time in direct weather ailments. If you are looking for the best marine refrigerator this should be on your list if you are needing more holland capacity.

• Plenty of storage to hold cold food
• No problems keeping cold air and can run off of various power sources
• Quality materials making it very durable
• Fan might be loud for some
• More expensive compared to smaller models

Black + Decker Compact Refrigerator

This top brand mini fridge offers pleasant surprises in its compact form. User reviews noted that it kept food and drinks cool throughout a week-long fishing trip while even accommodating extra bottles with smart use of space.

It runs silently and has long-lasting durability. This makes it worth its 70-watt power usage for consistent cooling and ample capacity.

• Reliable cooling from reputable brand
• Proven to last years
• Has a freezer and is quiet
• Eats more power compared to other competing marine refrigerators
• Some users reported the freezer is too small

Ausranvik 63 Quart Portable Marine Refrigerator

Ausravik brings a quality marine refrigerator to the table with its solid cooling capabilities and slightly less in price compared to other brands. It can be used with a variety of power sources to get the job done.

It also has a great feature that will not slam your fingers down with the lid open. This is perfect for families or if you prefer to save your own fingers. You can also find this in various sizes that can meet your cold air and food capacity goals.

• Quick cooling and has low power consumption
• Good capacity depending on size purchased
• Great idea for the anti-pinch feature
• Temperature readings can be off sometimes
• Materials might not hold up in rough conditions

ENGEL Portable Marine Refrigerator

Engel has a history of making quality ice chests and this is right on par with the other quality items they have made. As a portable marine refrigerator this is an excellent choice.

It is well-designed and sturdy enough to handle tough conditions you might experience on the water. It also performs well as it is energy efficient and a not noisy at all. The only drawback seems to be the latches and they might have to be replaced after years of heavy use.

• Quality brand that was able to make another great product
• Silent and energy efficient
• Users have held onto this for over five years or longer
• Latches might have to be replaced after a few years

Whynter Portable Refrigerator

This marine fridge is perfect for traveling and cruising for long periods at a time. Its low power draw, versatility, and cooling capability make it a reliable choice.

It can run on both 110V AC and 12/24V DC power sources without needing to switch wires. It can quickly cool food items to -10 degrees in an hour in a 90-degree ambient temperature. Its robust construction and quiet operation are also notable.

• Great value for the price
• Quiet and can run off multiple power sources
• Quickly cools to desired settings
• A bit heavy when loaded down
• Temperature settings can be off after years of use

VBENLEM Portable Refrigerator

This portable fridge holds more than plenty due to its dual zone design and also saves energy. The electronic temperature control allows you to easily set the desired temperature.

The fridge even has an app for you to control or check on settings. It is durable and comes with an adapter to plug into various outlets for power.

• Plenty of storage
• An app that you control and easy to operate digital display
• Cools fast and is energy efficient
• Draws power even when turned off
• App may be confusing at times

Dometic Waeco Coolmatic

This adaptable and energy-efficient fridge/freezer outshines some of its weaknesses. It perfectly fits boats that have limited space and it seamlessly shifts between functions while saving power at only 48 watts.

The interior space is disappointing but it makes up for it if you are able to maneuver items in a certain way. The power cord is too short and requires an extension if needing to make it work in a given spot.

• Can use as a freezer
• Great cooling capacity
• Can fit on smaller vessels
• Small interior
• Power cord is short and requires extension

EdgeStar Convertible Refrigerator

EdgeStar’s convertible marine refrigerator is compact, durable, and perfect for cooling and freezing needs. With quick cooling abilities that will not drain your boat’s power it is a great option for short trips.

It also could be a convenient backup freezer for fresh produce since it features insulation that rivals traditional fridges. The locking feature and stainless steel finish demonstrate the care put into its design. The compressor did take up a bit more space than desired.

• Great cooling capabilities
• Solid locking feature
• Better if it had more storage space

Norcold 751

This Norcold marine fridge impresses with its sturdy build and generous capacity. Despite a slightly high power draw the cooling performance is superb after fitting an auxiliary fan.

The modern and minimalistic style fits well with most boat cabin styles. It can easily fit in a center console and perfect on a three-day fishing trip.

• Performs well to cool
• Great amount if interior space
• Modern style fridge
• Handles will likely break after a period of time

How to Find the Best Marine Refrigerators

Finding a marine fridge for you will take some time and patience. There are a plethora of options to consider and you will need to understand the intended use for it.

Most metal or stainless steel products indicate a refrigerator's durability. Some major brands offer a various warranties that help make it less of a concern. Look for marine refrigerators that are both stylish and long-lasting.

Type of Power and Use

Numerous 12V refrigerators can run on house batteries or switch between AC/DC. Power consumption varies based on insulation and compressor cycling.

In long-distance cruising you should aim for efficient systems. A propane marine refrigerator will have a fire/explosion risks and pilot lights must be monitored.

Amount of Space

Check the dimensions of potential ice chests, especially if space is limited. Mini marine fridges are usually compact enough but sailboat refrigeration systems may take up a lot of room.

Ensure your sailboat refrigerator fits the designated space in your cabin by measuring it precisely. You should also consider the additional space that a marine drawer fridge will require when opened.

Intended Use

For tougher environments you should aim for a stronger refrigerator. Determine the required capacity by considering if you will be cooking frequently or only storing drinks.

A regular cooler may be sufficient for drinks and then you can utilize the marine fridge. A marine refrigeration kit can enhance performance and its power consumption.

Ease of Transportation

If marine fridges are heavy then they will be a chore to carry often. Frequent use of a lightweight icebox by travelers and boaters makes it easier to carry along on trips.

How Much Sound

Compressor refrigerators are generally louder than absorption-based ones. Most consumers prefer brands that prioritize low running noise despite using compressors. This becomes especially important if the fridge will be running overnight near where you are sleeping.

Budget always plays a role in everything you do. Most boaters want to be able to get a good deal on a marine fridge without breaking the bank.

If you are able to calculate your finances then you should be able to judge your budget range. Keep in mind that the most expensive options are not always the best and that you should do enough research to best fit your needs.

Benefits to Having a Boat Refrigerator

A marine refrigerator provides the same benefits as a home fridge while out at sea and allows for fresh meals. Investing in a heavy-duty refrigerator can provide long-term health benefits and eliminate the need for constantly adding ice.

Although marine fridges have a high price tag and consume a lot of power they offer uninterrupted cooling and eliminate the need for constant re-icing like with a cooler. A standard cooler is more cost-effective in the long run since marine refrigerators require a continuous power supply.

Having one for a fishing trip is a great idea if you are wanting to harvest the fish soon after catching. You would be able to store them after cleaning in your fridge for safe keeping.

How to Take Care of Your Marine Sailboat Refrigerator

Many of these fridges are self-contained and small but it is wise to seek expert assistance to maintain the refrigerant and compressor. You should also have them checked annually and not left out in the elements if possible.

While you are using them you should inspect the seals for any damage and defrost units with a freezer. This allows you to maintain proper humidity levels and cooling capabilities without having your fridge use too much energy.

You should also look for moisture that could cause unwanted mold, bacteria, and pests. The most common places for mold to grow would be where the door closes. This could mean you have an issues with the seal but that would be an easy fix.

Various Types of Marine Refrigerators

There are a handful of marine refrigerators on the market that cater to specific uses. It is important to know what type you are interested in so that you do not purchase one needing special attention upon setting up.

Portable Units

It is easy to understand why portable refrigerators are so popular among vessels that are mobile. They are easy to install, operate right out of the box, and come with their own batteries or compatible with yours.

They are cheaper and more flexible than conventional marine refrigeration options. Some use isotherm marine refrigeration which is known for boosting cooling efficiency and can even be converted from a standard refrigerator using a boat fridge kit.

Cold and Holding Plates

Marine cold plate refrigeration provides an efficient cooling without needing constant operation. Choosing between eutectic and an evaporator plate involves trade offs such as an eutectic plates cool slowly but keep temperature longer and  evaporator plates cool fast but lose cold quickly.

Choosing holding plate systems to cool your engine efficiently and can also retain temperatures for hours with proper insulation. These offer great ice retention but note their higher cost and power consumption compared to other sailboat refrigeration options.

Thermoelectric and Propane

Thermoelectric systems draw excessive power for modest cooling, struggle with temperature control, and are restricted to certain boat types. They boast longevity even though they are not the best in the other categories.

They typically can last for decades and even the entire lifespan of a vessel. Keep in mind of their enormous amount of power use due to their unconventional refrigerant-free approach.

Propane is considered risky by some boaters but it is still a viable option for many. Proper safety measures ensure reliability as long as you are keeping an eye on things.

Some marine absorption fridges will utilize a cutting-edge technology that eliminates compressors and fans for noiseless operation. An absorption fridge will harness low-grade heat to power most of the cooling and provide a great alternative for energy hogging fridges.

Are Marine Refrigerators Easy to Install?

Installing a self-contained drop-in refrigerator is easy since the compressor is included. Most featured products either have no separate compressor or none at all. Assembly of Isotherm fridges is best done by a professional unless you are confident in tackling that.

These types of refrigerators are commonly portable and ready to use once plugged in without any additional setup required. It is important to consider a variety of factors such as power source, size, location, and loading style when placing built-in fridges.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Refrigeration & Cool Boxes

Compressor Refrigeratiors  | Cooling Units & Evaporator Plates |  Mains Adaptors | Portable Compressor Coolers |  Portable Iceboxes | Portable Thermoelectric Coolboxes |

Having a fridge on board, or even a cool box can transform the comfort you feel when out on the water - knowing you can reach for a cool drink or that your food is fresh. At Force 4 Chandlery we keep a wide range of boat refrigeration systems and solutions, no matter how big or small a space you have in your galley.

Having a fridge on board can be the single biggest drain of battery power, so be sure when you're considering an installation to check out a main rectifier - these allow any compressor fridge installed to switch automatically between battery power to mains power when you plug back in at a marina. 

If you don't have the space for a fridge/freezer to be installed on board, then take a look at the range of insulated cool boxes and portable electric cool boxes. These insulated, top opening cool boxes provide a great option for smaller boats and RIBs, still doing a top job keeping food and drink cool - often just plugged into the boat via 12v socket. Being portable they are also great options for camping and day trips.

Force 4 Guide:  Choose the right Coolbox, Fridge or Freezer for your boat

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Marine Refrigeration

Specialists in every aspect of marine refrigeration, we specify, supply, install and support all of our products globally.

We offer an extensive range of highly efficient marine fridges, freezers, refrigeration kits and systems in 12/24V DC as well as 230V for larger systems.  All our marine refrigeration products can be either air or water cooled using 12V or 24V DC or 115V or 240V AC power.

Most of our marine refrigeration products are available from stock with fast order turnaround. Our range of fridges and freezers include front and top opening, drawer fridges, portable units, ice makers and wine fridges.  We also stock and supply spares and components for all our products.

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Have you thought about drawer fridges?

Take a look at the Vitrifrigo D20 and D30 drawer fridges. These are packed with features including the ability to run as freezers. For more information email us at [email protected] or call: 02392 453430

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How To Choose the Best 12-Volt Refrigerator for Your RV

Many people are attracted to van life because it offers freedom from traditional, crowded campgrounds. But Class B campers aren’t the only kinds of RVs that can be used for extended off-grid camping. 

Whatever RV you choose for boondocking , 12-volt refrigerators are great because they don’t require you to plug into power. You also reduce propane consumption, retaining that resource for your stovetop, oven, water heater, and any other propane-based appliances in your RV. If you’re using solar to charge your batteries, you can keep your refrigerator powered for much longer stays. 

Is a Compressor or Absorption 12-volt Refrigerator Better?

There are two different types of 12-volt camper refrigerators: absorption and compressor. We cover all the basics here , but let’s give you a brief overview. 

Absorption refrigerators typically have multiple power sources: propane, 110/120V AC, and 12VDC. They are commonly referred to as 2-way or 3-way refrigerators. 

However, if you plan to be off-grid and use your battery to power the refrigerator, you’ll want to choose a compressor-style refrigerator because it is much more efficient. You’ll also enjoy more space inside the fridge and a faster cooling time. Unlike absorption-style refrigerators, you don’t have to worry about being perfectly level for them to work properly, either. 

Types of 12-Volt RV Refrigerators

For compressor-style 12-volt DC refrigerators, you can choose from upright and chest. Let’s review which might suit you best.

The most common 12V RV refrigerator style is upright, just like the one in your home and the gas-absorption refrigerators found in most modern RVs. Many prefer this style due to its organization. Once you open the door, you can see all your items for a quick selection. However, there is a downside to this style: You lose a lot of cold air each time you open the door.

This style resembles a traditional cooler , but unlike your standard roll-behind cooler, it has power, also known as an electric cooler . They are increasingly popular due to their convenient shape and added portability, giving you more layout options. 

The one major disadvantage of a chest style is convenience. You can’t always see everything inside from the top, leading to rifling through groceries to find what you need.

What Type of Fridge is Best for Camping?

There isn’t one style that is best for everyone. Yes, the upright style is more organized, but the chest style is also more efficient. Your particular setup and what works best with your layout should be the deciding factor. 

If you’re replacing a gas-absorption refrigerator and want the same organization options, an upright 12-volt refrigerator is your best choice. If you have a camper van with limited space, you might like the mounting options a chest-style 12-volt refrigerator offers.

Does My Refrigerator Need to Be RV Rated?

Yes, you’ll need to be sure the refrigerator you’re using is specifically rated for RVs. You don’t want to use a standard refrigerator because it likely isn’t built to handle life on the road. RV refrigerators are built differently. They have much greater shock absorption, which helps them manage the rough ride and will ultimately last longer. 

Standard home refrigerators will still work inside an RV if you’re willing to rely on AC power from a generator or shore connection. However, these refrigerators don’t have the extra protection for the road, so longevity will always be a concern. This is another reason why RV fridges are typically more expensive. 

Factors for Choosing a 12-Volt Fridge

If you’ve decided a compressor-style 12-volt RV mini fridge suits you, you’ll have some choices regarding size and layout. Let’s go over these in more detail to get the right one. 

Size and Storage

One of the first questions many people have when looking at refrigerators is size. What size do I need? The answer to this question varies, but factors such as how many people will use it and how long you want to stay off-grid are relevant. 

We all have different eating habits and preferences, but for a general guide, one person will need around 70 liters, and two will need around 100 liters. Chest-style refrigerators offer more space, so you can size down a bit.

If you’re replacing or upgrading an RV refrigerator, you’ll need to match your replacement to the dimensions of your current refrigerator unless you want to embark on a larger DIY conversion project. In this guide’s final section, we’ll highlight other RV refrigerator replacement tips. 

Freezer Space

If you’re unfamiliar with RV refrigerators, you may be disappointed in the lacklusterness of the RV fridge freezer. Yes, they are small but what’s most annoying is that they don’t get very cold, enough to store meat but not enough to keep ice cream from melting. In other words, if you have a sweet tooth, you’ll want to look for a unit with a separate adjustable freezer section. 

Energy Consumption

Chances are, if you’re considering a 12-volt RV refrigerator, you’re doing so because of its efficiency. But how do you determine which one is the most efficient? The best way is to find the manufacturer’s specified amp rating. For example, if the refrigerator has a 10 amp rating, you know you can run that refrigerator for about 10 hours with a 100 amp battery. If only the wattage rating is provided, simply divide the watt rating by the volts to get amps. 

Popular 12-Volt Refrigerator Brands for RVs and Van Life

Choosing a brand can be difficult, especially if you are unfamiliar with the product. You want something affordable, well-made, and durable. If there are any issues, you want to be able to get them fixed in a timely manner. Let’s review some popular choices.

The most well-known manufacturer of RV refrigerators, Dometic, has a longstanding reputation as the leader in the industry. They offer multiple options, both upright and chest style.

Everchill is a brand owned by Lippert, which is one of the leading RV suppliers in North America. They have a wide range of upright options.

GE is a very popular appliance manufacturer that has been around for a long time. They offer upright refrigerators in various sizes. 

A small company specializing in RV refrigerators, Norcold offers some great options and a warranty to back them up.

How Long Can You Run a 12-Volt Fridge?

12-volt RV refrigerators are extremely efficient, which is part of the reason they are so popular. With a properly equipped energy storage and management system in your RV, you can run them all day and through the night. However, variables such as the size of your battery bank and the unit’s power demands will impact just how long you can run a 12V RV refrigerator.

Let’s say your fridge draws around seven amps. To run this fridge for 24 hours, you would need about 168 amp hours (Ah). Most off-grid RVs have a battery capacity of at least 200 Ah, leaving some power for other necessities. Add a solar panel to the mix, and you’ll have even more power to spare. 

Do 12-Volt RV Refrigerators Require a Vent?

12-volt RV refrigerators must be vented for proper operation. However, compressor 12-volt refrigerators don’t require an external vent like absorption-style refrigerators. 

Instead, you’ll simply need to ensure adequate space around the fridge as specified in the owner’s manual. This means no additional holes in the outside of your RV, which can become access points for critters and pests.

Keeping Your 12-Volt Refrigerator Running

It doesn’t matter how efficient your refrigerator is; if you don’t have a way to replenish your battery bank, you’ll eventually be left with warm and spoiled food. There are a few options for keeping your batteries charged. If you’re at a campground, you can simply plug into shore power.

However, if you are boondocking, you’ll need to use a generator, solar power, or a mix of the two. Solar is the best option since it’s sustainable and renewable but you may also need a generator for cloudy days, or for powering larger appliances like your microwave and air conditioner. 

What is the Life Expectancy of a 12-volt Refrigerator?

It’s difficult to determine the life expectancy of a 12-volt refrigerator because it is a newer technology in the RV industry. Residential compressor-style refrigerators have proven reliable, but the same cannot yet be said for 12-volt RV refrigerators. 

On the other hand, absorption-style RV refrigerators have proven their durability, with an average life expectancy of 10-15 years. It’s not uncommon to hear of some still kicking even after 25 years of service. 

If reliability is what you value most, you may want to stick with the tried-and-true absorption-style RV refrigerator . However, if you value efficiency most and the ability to use battery power for your refrigerator, it’s worth taking the dive into a 12-volt RV refrigerator. 

Installing an RV Replacement Refrigerator 

If you’ve decided on a 12-volt RV refrigerator replacement, there are some things you’ll need to know. For starters, you’ll want to measure the rough opening to ensure the fridge selected either matches or is less than its length, width, and depth. Because compressor-style refrigerators don’t require an external vent, you’ll also need space around the refrigerator for ventilation. It’s also a good idea to close and seal any existing exterior vents that are no longer used. 

If you have space for your new refrigerator, you can begin by removing the old one. Hopefully, it fits through the doorway, and you don’t have to remove a door or window, but be prepared for this, as it has happened before. To determine the best removal method, measure your doorway and the existing refrigerator. You’re good to go if the refrigerator is smaller than the doorway. Otherwise, you’ll need to begin removing a window or door. This is best left to a professional at one of our service centers .  

Once you have the old fridge removed and the new one in place, you’ll need to route wires from the fridge to the battery. The size of the wire and circuit protection you use is important, so be sure to reference the owner’s manual for this.

There are many benefits of adding a 12-volt refrigerator. Whether you’re looking to replace an old, non-working fridge or upgrade to a more efficient model, we hope you found this guide helpful. If a 12-volt DC refrigerator is not a good fit for you, there are plenty of other options to consider .  

Let us know in the comments below which style of RV refrigerator you prefer!

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