sailboat boom vang

What is a Sailboat Boom Vang?

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

A boom vang is a set of blocks and lines or an adjustable pole used to pull the boom down and shape the sail.

The boom vang (or “kicking strap”) is a system used to control the shape of the sail. It counteracts the upward force of the boom jack and the mainsail by pulling the boom downward. This results in the ability to control the shape of the sail.

Table of contents

Boom Vang vs. Mainsheet

What's the difference between the boom vang and the mainsheet? On many sailboats, the boom vang and the mainsheet look similar, as both use a set of blocks to control the motion of the boom.

The easiest way to tell the difference between the boom vang and the mainsheet is location. The boom vang typically begins close to the base of the mast and connects to the base of the boom at about a 45-degree angle.

The mainsheet is much further back and generally vertically-oriented. Sometimes, the mainsheet is located far at the end of the mast and connected to the stern of the vessel. Just remember boom vang forward, mainsheet aft.

What Does a Boom Vang Do?

A boom vang is a simple device consisting of a pole or a set of blocks and lines. The primary purpose of the boom vang is to control the vertical orientation of the boom and to exert a downward force on it.

Without the boom vang, the wind would blow the sail uncontrollably and make it difficult to maneuver efficiently. The mainsheet, which appears to exert downward pressure on the boom, wouldn't be able to adjust the sail effectively without a separate system like a boom vang.

Importance of the Boom Vang

A properly-adjusted boom vang becomes more important as you let out the mainsheet. The further from the centerline the boom travels, the less downward force the mainsheet provides.

This means that you'd lose a tremendous amount of control without a boom vang, especially as you loosen the sheet. A boom vang exerts a constant downward force on the sail regardless of what position the boom is in. This keeps the sail shape consistent in all conditions.

Boom Vang Types

There are two primary types of boom vangs used on sailboats today. The first and most common type is the standard boom vang. Standard boom vangs consist of a block and tackle arrangement that mounts to the base of the mast and bottom of the boom.

The second type is the hydraulic boom vang , which is more advanced and offers unique benefits. The hydraulic boom vang uses a hydraulic piston that looks like an oversized automobile shock or door opener.

The benefit of a hydraulic boom vang is that it holds the vertical position of the boom without assistance. It's rigid in both directions and doesn't require upward force to keep the boom in place.

Hydraulic boom vangs are costlier than traditional block-and-tackle setups. That said, they're easy to install and generally simple to operate. Hydraulic boom vangs are common on newer sailboats, especially those that exceed 30 feet in length.

What is a Boom Gnav?

A boom gnav is one of the most intuitive pieces of sailboat equipment. The word "gnav" is "vang" spelled backward, and it performs the exact same task on the opposite end of the boom.

A boom gnav exerts a downward force on the boom to counteract the upward force of the wind or rigging. A boom gnav pushes the boom down, whereas a boom vang pulls it down. Not all sailboats have a boom gnav, and those that do often use it as a substitute for a boom vang.

Boom gnav systems are most common on small sailboats , where the added lower triangle of a boom vang gets in the way. A boom gnav takes up no extra cockpit space as it mounts atop the boom and to a higher point on the mast.

In other words, the boom gnav operates within the sail area, which is a part of the boat that's already unusable due to the sail. A boom gnav is usually a pole that adjusts by sliding forward and aft on the boom, which changes the angle and downward force.

Boom Vang Maintenance

Maintenance is essential to keep your sailboat in safe and working condition, and the boom vang is no exception. There are a few boom vang parts you should inspect and maintain regularly.

Check the Mounting Points

The mounting points of the boom vang are subjected to a considerable amount of force, and they should be inspected regularly. Look for signs of corrosion (galvanic or otherwise) and bending.

If you notice any deformation, replace the mounting points and hardware with marine-grade hardware. Make sure the aluminum mast is solid, as corrosion can weaken the areas around the mounting holes.

Inspect Blocks and Tackle

For traditional boom vangs, regularly inspecting the blocks and lines can prevent problems down the road. Over time, nylon lines become salt and sun-damaged and begin to fray. If the lines are brittle and leave excessive dust on your hands, it may be time to replace them.

Blocks are generally reliable and don't require a significant amount of maintenance. That said, you should inspect your blocks and make sure they spin freely. If they don't (or they become too loose), they could be failing and should be replaced with high-quality marine blocks.

Hydraulic Boom Vang Maintenance

Hydraulic boom vangs are simpler than traditional block and tackle setups, but they still require regular inspection. A hydraulic boom vang uses a piston and a working fluid instead of lines and pulleys.

On hydraulic boom vangs, the primary failure points are the seals and the mounting points. If your boom vang begins to leak, you'll notice a decrease in stability, and the vang won't hold tension.

Another common failure point is the spring, which can weaken or break and make the vang almost unusable. In most cases, the best option when your hydraulic boom vang fails is to replace it entirely.

What is a Boom Jack?

A boom jack (also known as a lazy jack) is the rigging that exerts an upward force that the boom vang or boom gnav counteracts. The boom jack begins at the boom and reaches up to the top of the mast.

Boom jacks resemble any other rigging on a sailboat. They roughly form the triangular shape of the sail and usually mount to the boom at multiple points.

A typical boom jack begins as a single line at the top of the mast. About 1/4 of the way down the mast, it splits into two lines. At the halfway point, each end of the two lines splits again into four. These four lines run down to the boom and mount evenly-spaced apart.

The purpose of the boom jack is to exert even upward force on the boom. The tension of the boom jack is set as to counteract the tension of the boom vang, which holds the boom at a steady 90 degrees. The boom jack line runs down from the top of the mast to a block or cleat on the opposite end of the boom vang.

Adjusting the Vang

Generally speaking, the boom vang isn't as important when traveling upwind as it is when traveling downwind. This is especially true once you've maxed-out your mainsheet traveler.

At this point, the vang controls the twist of the mainsail. With an improperly-adjusted vang (or lack thereof), you could experience a lot of up-and-down play of the boom. This can cause you to lose control of the mainsail.

A properly-adjusted boom vang can help you keep your mainsail shaped correctly and keep your boom in the proper position. It also gives you precise control of your speed when traveling downwind.

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Control Your Mainsail Shape Better With a Boom Vang

A boom vang is a useful control for your mainsail, especially if the mainsail is older and acting its age. That is, if it’s getting baggy and is difficult to flatten, particularly when you’re pointed off the wind. For better performance and safety, you need to be able to pull excess twist out of the mainsail and flatten the leech. The best way to do that is with a boom vang. It has the added benefit of preventing the end of the boom from raising so high during gybes that it can snag the backstay, a potentially dangerous situation if the wind is strong enough.

Before I continue, a bit of legal housekeeping. This post contains affiliate links. That means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase using those links. Those commissions help to pay the costs associated with running this site so that it stays free for everyone to enjoy. For a complete explanation of why I’m telling you this and how you can support this blog without paying more, please read my full disclosure .

How a boom vang improves mainsail shape

A boom vang is a tackle system attached at a 45° angle between the mast and the boom. Its purpose is to pull the aft end of the boom down when the mainsail is fuller and more twisted than desired. It can be used on any point of sail but is most useful on a reach. For this reason, the lower end of the vang is typically attached near the mast tabernacle so that the vang can rotate with the boom and keep equal tension on any point of sail.

Tightening the vang flattens the mainsail and provides more balance so that the headsail can be trimmed to make more forward power. Easing the vang allows the top of the mainsail to twist and spill air to avoid overpowering the rig. This technique is called vang sheeting and is an effective way to control heeling without adjusting the main sheet.

DIY materials list

You can spend hundreds of dollars on a pre-assembled kit or you purchase standard parts à la carte and save a lot.

What you’ll need:

Two fiddle blocks , one (upper) with a becket and cam cleat. The other (lower) can be standard.
Jaw snap shackles to attach to the ends of both fiddle blocks. These make the vang quick to attach and detach.
Garhauer BT-2 boom tang or equivalent screwed to the boom
Garhauer BB-2 boom bail or equivalent held by the mast step bolt. If your sailboat has a mast step plate with a vang loop built in, you can use that instead.
16′ x 5/16″ New England Ropes Sta Set , tied or eye spliced to the fiddle block becket, 30′ if you want to lead the line through a deck organizer with other lines from the mast.

Installation instructions

To install a boom vang on a C-22 or similar sailboat:

1. The vang should be installed at a 45 degree angle between the mast and boom. Measure the height of the top of the boom above the cabin roof with the mainsail at full hoist. For a Catalina 22, it should be 39″.

2. Measure the same distance along the bottom side of the boom from the aft side of the mast and make a pencil mark. This is where you will attach the boom tang.

3. Attach the boom tang so that it is angled toward the base of the mast as shown below. If the boom tang has straight legs, carefully bend them to fit the combination of the boom curvature and the tang angle. When the fit is good, drill 5/32″ pilot holes and use #10 x 3/4″ pan head stainless steel tapping screws. Leave enough space between the tang and the boom to connect a snap shackle as shown in the following picture.

Upper fiddle block attached to the boom tang

4. If your sailboat does not have a mast step plate with a vang loop built in, remove the mast step bolt, align the boom bail holes with the mast holes, and replace the mast step bolt as shown in the following picture.

Lower fiddle block attached to the mast bail

5. Attach the snap shackles to the fiddle blocks as shown in the preceding pictures.

6. Tie or splice one end of the line to the becket on the upper fiddle block.

7. Reave the line through the fiddle blocks and the cam cleat.

8. Use the snap shackles to connect the lower fiddle block to the bail and the upper fiddle block to the boom tang.

9. Test for smooth operation of the vang and that the boom rotates freely.

You can rig this boom vang in one of two ways. In its simplest form, the fiddle block with the cam cleat and the standing end of the line can hang over the companionway hatch and doesn’t need to be led farther aft. You or your crew can just reach up and trim it as needed.

You can also rig it with the line long enough to lead it aft with other running rigging. For that, lead the standing end outside of the cam cleat, down through a turning block at the mast base, over the cabin roof, through a deck organizer, then aft to a cleat over the bulkhead. The advantage of this setup is that it’s easier to trim on a reach when the boom is swung forward. It’s also easier if you have a bimini that is in the way of reaching the cam cleat.

The longer line also makes the vang more versatile as a utility tackle system. With its 4:1 mechanical advantage and quick release shackles, you can easily detach it and move it to wherever you need some heavy lifting or pulling power such as hauling up a crew member that’s fallen overboard.

To get full control of your mainsail, also see Flatten Your Mainsail Foot with an Outhaul and Control Mainsail Draft with a Boom Downhaul . All three controls work great in combination with each other to flatten the mainsail in medium to heavy winds.

For the complete collection of rigging projects like this one, purchase my ebook Do-It-Yourself Small Sailboat Rigging .

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Let us just focus on the ones that we know best and sell the most of here at The Rigging Company!

Forespar Yacht Rod is a tried and true system and our most popular model yet. It may not be the lightest or sleekest out there, but this vang has earned it’s rank among one of the most dependable in the rigid vang market. It is well suited for just about any racer/cruiser or dedicated cruising boat out there. The yacht rod uses a dependable coil spring as the return. Forespar vangs are adjustable, utilizing a very coarse adjustment (about every 4″) via a fast pin which allows the user a tool-less way to adjust the spring pre-load or boom kick height. The vang is constructed of one smaller anodized aluminum tube and one larger painted aluminum tube with cast anodized ends. Pricing is around the $870 – $1600 range, and they are available in just 3 different sizes. Mast brackets, block and tackles, boom lugs, all sold separately.

Hall Spars Quick Vang has also been around for a long time. Although Hall USA has recently announced its closing of business , I think shoppers will still find an inventory of these super high quality vangs with various distributors throughout the US. The Hall Spars Quick Vang has always had a great reputation, and their most recent iteration is even better. Typically, this vang is found on racer/cruisers and dedicated racing boats. Although there is no reason this couldn’t be found on a cruising boat in my opinion. This vang also offers a coil spring as the return mechanism. The springs pre-load can be finely adjusted to set the boom’s kick height (hex keys required). It consists of completely anodized aircraft grade aluminum tubing with solid aluminum machined ends. These systems can vary in price from $1000 to $2800 and are available in 7 different sizes/configurations. Purchase block and tackles are always included, varying from 8:1 to 60:1 depending on boat size and sail requirements. As with all of these systems, mast brackets and boom lugs are purchased separately.

Selden Rodkicker vangs have also been around a very long time and are rigged on many different styles of boats. It is likely they are equipped on more boats than any of the other manufacturers, from the club racer/cruiser, to the dedicated match racer, to the varying ranges of production cruising boats found in today’s sailboat market. Selden’s approach is slightly different in that it uses a gas spring (much like your gas strut on your hatchback) as the return. They also use a very attractive rectangular extrusion instead round tubing like Forespar and Hall. Selden’s Rodkicker vang does not offer any spring height adjustment. The ends are made of cast anodized aluminum (like Forespar). Price wise these are some of the most affordable systems on the market, ranging from just under $300 up to $1600 (hence their popularity). The Selden vangs come in 4 different sizes, and offer a soft and hard spring option within each size (they also offer the no spring option, but what’s the point? ). Purchase block and tackles, mast and boom brackets must be bought separately.

Hydraulic vang service done the right way. The Rigging Company

Hydraulic Vangs – Amongst the various hydraulic vang manufacturers you will see very similar design, functionality, and construction. It seems that Navtec, who also recently closed their doors , was the grandfather of all sailboat hydraulic system and cylinder design. The three big players left (see links at the top of this article) all have their own unique features and benefits, but are for the most part based on the same (Navtec) design. Whether we are talking about a double acting push pull vangs (reserved primarily for larger yachts with heavy booms) or gas return vangs, the gist is the same. There is a stainless steel piston rod with an aluminum piston that rides inside of an anodized aluminum cylinder/body. This is all accompanied by a series of seals that will need to be serviced/replaced once in while to keep things….sealed. The big deal is that all of these hydraulic vangs require the boat to be plumbed with hoses, a reservoir and a control panel that houses the pressure gauge and pump at a minimum. Besides just a basic vang cylinder (no plumbing, brackets, lugs or panels) costing as much as the most expensive mechanical vang mentioned above, these systems HAVE to be professionally installed thus making them the most expensive, but also the most robust option, by far.

~Some Final Thoughts~

All rigid vangs especially when properly installed and maintained will last a very (very) long time. Keep in mind, typically anything using fluid (and or gas) and seals will require service/ repair over time. One thing that all vangs require, regardless of whether choosing a simple block and tackle, mechanical, or hydraulic system, is for them to be installed properly; ensuring a properly mounted mast bracket and boom lug, rigging the vang in the correct orientation (not upside down), all the while achieving the appropriate boom to vang angle (approximately 30-45 degrees). This will ensure functionality, longevity and ease of use.

Have a question about which system might be right for you? Need your hydraulic vang serviced? Talk to our experienced sales staff for more information.

Thanks for the read. See you next time.

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Do I Really Need a Boom Vang?

We get a lot of great questions through our Ask the Expert portal and sometimes they make for great articles. Here are Quantum's David Flynn's insights for Mark A. and everyone else who's wondered about how to properly use the boom vang.

I’ve barely ever used my boom vang. Do I really need one?

Absolutely! The boom vang can be a misunderstood sail control. It takes over the job of pulling down on the boom once the mainsheet is eased. Upwind, the mainsheet pulls down as soon as the boom is over the traveler. Controlling the boom height determines twist, or the shape of the mainsail leech.

If you don’t use the boom vang in all but the lightest conditions, the boom will rise up as it is eased out and the sail will twist off, spilling power out of the top of the sail. This is okay when you have too much heel and helm, but not when you need power. Not taking advantage of your boom vang also limits how far out you can ease the sail. If the top is twisted off, it will run up against the upper shrouds and wrap itself around the stay, which prevents you from letting out the sail as far as you would like. The golden rule of thumb: Use enough vang to keep the top batten parallel to the boom. If it is too tight, the top telltale will stall.

There are a few exceptions however when it comes to boom vang use. The first has to do with multihull boats, which have a traveler that runs the entire width of the boat. With this type of boat, letting the traveler down allows the mainsheet to continue to do the job of pulling down and controlling twist. The length of the traveler lets the boom go a long way out before it starts to lift. Also, most multihulls have upper shrouds that are quite far aft, which prevents easing the mainsheet very far. A vang still helps, however, as it allows maximum ease on the boom before the shrouds become an issue.

The other exception has to do with high-performance planing boats that use asymmetrical spinnakers (Melges 24s, 32s, and C&C 30s, etc). To promote planing and to match the leech of the asymmetrical spinnaker when reaching high angles, a huge amount of twist is required. With this type of boat, you have to ease the vang (until it is almost off) to induce twist, then overshoot and pump the mainsail to promote planing.

If you’d like to know a bit more about mainsail twist (another sailor had a question about it, too), read more here .

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Boom Vang Sailing Fundamentals

The boom vang is an essential piece of equipment that plays a key role in achieving optimal performance. This often overlooked component significantly impacts sail shape and handling, making it crucial to master. In this blog, we will explore the ins and outs of the boom vangs. We will examine the components, different types, and their functions and use.

Key Takeaways

The boom vang is an essential sailing component that significantly impacts sail shape, boat performance, and handling.
Different types of boom vangs offer various levels of control, support, and complexity. Consider factors like boat size, budget, and intended use when selecting a boom vang.
Proper installation, adjustment, and maintenance of the boom vang are critical for optimizing performance and ensuring safety.
Advanced techniques, such as racing tactics and sailing in heavy weather, require precise control and understanding of the boom vang.

What is a Boom Vang?

A boom vang, also known as a kicking strap or vang, is a device used on a sailboat to control the angle of the boom relative to the mast, thereby affecting the shape of the mainsail. It plays a crucial role in sail trim , impacting the boat’s overall performance and handling.

Basic Components

Before diving into how its works, let’s first look at its basic components. A typical boom vang consists of a line or tackle system that connects the boom to the base of the mast. This system often includes blocks, cleats, shackles, and other hardware, which can be made from various materials such as aluminum or stainless steel. The choice of materials and components often depends on factors like the size of the boat, weather conditions, and personal preferences.

Function and Purpose

Different types of vangs, soft or rope vang.

The soft or rope vang is the simplest and most traditional type. It consists of a line or rope running through a series of blocks, forming a purchase system to provide mechanical advantage. Soft ones are affordable, lightweight, and relatively easy to install and maintain. However, they lack the support and precision that more advanced systems offer, which can be a drawback for those seeking optimal shape control.

Rigid: rod, spring-loaded, hydraulic piston

Rigid provide more support and control than soft, allowing for better sail management. Several types include rod, spring-loaded, and hydraulic piston vangs. Rods are simple and durable, using a solid rod to connect the mast and boom .

Spring-loaded incorporate a spring mechanism to provide additional support and maintain boom height, while hydraulic pistons offer precise control and adjustment using hydraulics. Rigid vangs are generally more expensive and complex, but their benefits often outweigh the additional costs.

GNAV (topping lift replacement)

The GNAV is a relatively new type that replaces the traditional topping lift , a line that supports the boom when the mainsail is lowered. This system uses a rigid rod or strut that attaches to the top of the boom and the mast, providing support and control similar to a rigid vang. GNAV systems are lightweight, low-maintenance, and can improve sail shape but may require modifications to your rigging to accommodate the new setup.

Choosing the right type for your boat

When selecting a boom vang, consider your boat size and budget. Casual cruisers may find a soft vang suitable for their needs, while racers or those with larger boats may benefit from rigid’ enhanced control and support. Additionally, those seeking a low-maintenance option with a clean appearance may prefer the GNAV system.

Pros and cons of each type

Soft are affordable and easy to maintain but offer less control and support than rigid.
Rigid provide increased control and performance but may be more expensive and complex to install.
GNAV systems offer a sleek, low-maintenance alternative but may necessitate rigging modifications.

Installation and Setup

Measuring and determining the proper size.

Before selecting, you will need to determine the appropriate size for your sailboat. Measure the distance between the base of the mast and the boom, where the vang will be attached. Consider the size and weight of your boat and your preferences and conditions when selecting the system.

Installation process

1. Attaching the vang to the mast and boom

Start by attaching it to the mast and boom using the appropriate hardware, such as shackles or bolts . Ensure the attachment points are strong and secure, as the vang will be subject to significant forces.

2. Rigging the tackle system

Next, rig the tackle system using blocks, purchase systems, and cleats, following the manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations. Ensure that the line or rope used in the system is of the proper size and strength for your boat and weather conditions. When rigging a soft vang, route the line through the blocks to create the desired purchase system. For rigid vangs and GNAV systems, follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for connecting the components.

Troubleshooting common installation issues

Difficulty attaching the vang to the mast or boom: Ensure that you use the correct hardware and attachment points, and consider strengthening the attachment points if necessary.
Difficulty routing the line or rigging the tackle system: Double-check the manufacturer’s instructions and ensure the blocks and purchase systems are compatible with your boat and vang system.
Inadequate control: Adjust the purchase system or vang.

Adjusting the Vang

When heading upwind, the vang helps control the leech tension and twist in the mainsail. Adjusting allows you to find the right balance between a tight leech for more power and a loose leech for less heel and weather helm . This balance is crucial for optimal pointing ability and speed.
A well-tuned vang can significantly improve your upwind pointing ability and speed. It allows you to maintain a steady course and maximize efficiency even in changing conditions.
While heading downwind, the boom vang helps control the twist and shape of the mainsail by exerting a downward force on the boom. This prevents the boom from lifting and the sail from twisting, ensuring a more efficient and stable shape. Adjust the vang for wind conditions .
One of the key safety benefits of a properly adjusted vang is its ability to prevent accidental gybes. Maintaining tension on the boom helps keep it in place and reduces the risk of an unexpected and potentially dangerous gybe.

Sail trim adjustments

Keep an eye on your sail shape and performance to identify any signs of poor trim . These may include excessive heel, weather helm, difficulty pointing, or sluggish speed.
Make small adjustments to fine-tune your vang. Be patient and allow time for the boat to react to each adjustment before making further changes. Remember that optimal settings vary with different wind conditions and angles, so be prepared to adjust as needed.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Over-tightening the in light winds can flatten the sail too much and reduce power.
Neglecting to ease the vang when bearing away can cause excessive heel and reduce control.
Failing to adjust the tension as conditions change leads to suboptimal performance.

Maintenance and Safety Considerations

Regular inspection and maintenance.

Checking for wear and tear: Periodically inspect for signs of wear and tear, such as damage or corrosion on aluminum or stainless steel components, frayed lines, or worn mechanical parts. Address any issues promptly to prevent potential failures or accidents.
Lubricating moving parts: Keep moving parts, such as blocks and shackles, lubricated and clean to ensure smooth operation and reduce the risk of jamming or failure. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for lubrication and cleaning products.
Replacing worn components: Replace any worn or damaged components as needed to maintain the integrity and safety of your system. Consult the manufacturer’s guidelines or seek advice from experienced sailors to ensure proper replacement and installation.

Safety considerations

When in strong winds, be cautious when adjusting. Over-tightening the vang can cause excessive force on the boom and mast, potentially leading to equipment failure. Be prepared to ease if the wind strength increases suddenly.
Ensure the boom is securely attached to the mast and vang, and double-check all connections before departing. This will minimize the risk of accidents caused by a loose or detached boom.
Be aware of the hazards of a failure, such as a sudden gybe or loss of control. Regular inspection and maintenance, combined with proper usage, can help reduce the risk of equipment failure.

Emergency procedures for equipment failure

In the event of a boom vang failure, remain calm and follow these emergency procedures:

Secure the boom using the mainsheet or an alternative method to prevent it from swinging uncontrollably.
Assess the extent of the damage and determine if it is safe to continue or if immediate repairs are needed.
If necessary, lower the mainsail and return to a safe location for repairs.

Advanced Techniques

Racing tactics.

1. Shaping for different wind conditions

Precise shaping is crucial for maximizing speed and performance in racing scenarios. Adjusting the boom vang according to wind conditions allows you to harness the power of the wind more effectively. Experiment with different settings to find the ideal balance between power and control.

2. Maximizing speed and pointing ability

A well-adjusted boom vang can significantly improve your speed and pointing ability. By controlling the leech tension and twist, the vang enables you to maintain an efficient and stable sail shape, even in gusty or shifting winds. Monitor your boat’s performance and make small adjustments to the vang as needed during the race to optimize speed and pointing.

Offshore and heavy weather

When in challenging conditions, the boom vang can play a critical role in maintaining sail shape and protecting your rig. Hydraulic and spring-loaded vangs are particularly useful in these situations, as they provide precise control and support to help manage the forces exerted. Using the boom vang can help prevent excessive wear and tear and minimize the risk of equipment failure or accidents.

Final Thoughts

Understanding and mastering the boom vang is crucial for improving their boat’s performance and handling. With the right boom vang setup, you can optimize sail shape, maintain balance, and enhance safety, especially in challenging conditions.

The primary function of a boom vang is to control the shape of the mainsail by adjusting the angle of the boom relative to the mast. It impacts leech tension, twist, and flattening, affecting the overall performance and handling of the boat.

The main types of boom vangs are soft or rope, rigid vangs (rod, spring-loaded, hydraulic piston), and GNAV systems.

Consider your boat’s size, budget, and intended use. Casual cruisers may prefer a soft vang, while racers or those with larger boats may benefit from the enhanced control offered by rigid vangs. GNAV systems are a low-maintenance alternative that may require rigging modifications.

Start by attaching the boom vang to the mast and boom using the appropriate hardware, then rig the tackle system according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Adjust the boom vang for optimal sail shape and performance while sailing upwind and downwind.

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Using a Sailboat Boom Vang in Sailing

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A boom vang is used on a sailboat to pull down the boom on off-wind points of sail when the wind in the mainsail would lift the boom. Proper use of a boom vang helps keep the sail full and drawing well.

When a sailboat sails downwind, the mainsail is let out for best sail trim, and the boom is typically 50 to 80 degrees from the centerline out to the leeward side. Because of this angle, the mainsheet has a little downward pull on the boom, which freely rises and falls with wind changes and when the boat rolls on waves from behind. When the boom rises, the mainsail billows out, twists, and spills wind, then may snap back—over and over. This motion makes the sail less efficient.

A boom vang prevents this motion by pulling downward on the boom regardless of its position in relation to the centerline. A traditional block-and-tackle vang mounts between the base of the mast and mid-boom. The control line is typically led back to the cockpit, where pulling the line exerts force to pull the boom down.

A number of commercial rigid boom vangs are also available. This is essentially an adjustable pole that mounts similarly to hold down the boom. While more expensive than a block-and-tackle vang, rigid vangs have the added function of also holding the boom up when the mainsail is lowered, such that a topping lift is not needed.

How to Use a Boom Vang

When to tighten the vang:

When sailing downwind on a broad reach or a run, tighten the vang to keep the boom down and minimize mainsail twist that spills air from the sail.
If the boat does not have a traveler , which is used to pull the boom down on a beam reach, use the vang even on a beam reach (the wind directly over one side).

When to ease or release the vang to allow the boom to rise:

When sailing downwind in light air, the mainsail generally has a better shape if the vang is not tight. Let the sail bag out some.
When sailing downwind in a strong wind, ease the vang to depower the mainsail by allowing the boom to rise and the sail to spill air high up (mainsail “twist”). Bring in the mainsheet if needed to prevent chafing of the sail against the shrouds and spreaders.
After dropping the mainsail, raise the boom to give more headroom in the cockpit.

Boom Vang as Preventer

If your boat lacks a boom preventer , an important piece of safety gear, it may be possible to improvise with the vang as a preventer when needed, if its lower connection can be easily released and moved forward of the mast.

How to Gybe a Sailboat
Learn How to Sail a Small Sailboat – 1. The Parts of the Boat
How to Raise the Mainsail
How to Use a Mainsheet Traveler
How to Rig a Preventer Line
How to Use a Topping Lift
Simple Reefing System for Sailors
How to Use a Sailboat's Outhaul
When to Adjust Sailboat Sails for Stronger Winds
How to Tack a Sailboat
How to Trim the Jib Using Telltales
How to Tow a Dinghy Behind a Sailboat
How to Use Roller Furling
Choosing a Centerboard or Fixed Keel Sailboat
How to Anchor a Sailboat
How to Heave To a Sailboat

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Solid Vang Showdown

Vang master pushes to the top; steer clear of the ocean vang.

]It’s been more than six years since Practical Sailor evaluated rigid boom vangs. Given the rapid evolution of sailing hardware, it’s high time we take another close look.

In that May 15, 1999 report, we wrote that Hall Spars and Rigging’s QuikVang was the best all-around product, if you were game to ignore prices. Garhauer Marine’s vang was our Best Buy due to its rugged construction and economical price, and Spinlock’s then new Powervang was the product of choice for the racing set. If you owned a larger boat and wanted a lightweight vang, your best bet was Selden’s Rodkicker. As that 1999 test indicated, determining the appropriate rigid vang for your boat and your style of sailing is not a one-size-fits all affair. The process is fraught with conditional answers that only you can supply.

First, you have to determine if you want a rigid vang primarily for supporting your boom. If that’s the case, then the performance of the vang may be less important to you than the cost and the product’s purported longevity. If you want a vang that will allow you to make fairly precise refinements to your mainsail trim as well as support your boom, you’ll be looking more closely at how easy it is to adjust and its range of adjustability. Then, you have different types. Do you favor a spring-loaded, gas-cylinder, pneumatic, or rod vang?

Our evaluation included all four types. It’s important to note that you shouldn’t install a rigid vang on a boom that rotates, as this will compromise the gooseneck fittings on the vang or the boom itself. Also, standard, off-the-shelf rigid vangs like the ones PS evaluated here are not suitable for use with in boom furling. For those applications, you’ll want heavier duty equipment.

The Test For this test, PS amassed a group of eight rigid vangs from seven manufacturers. We asked each company to send a vang that would be suitable for a 36-foot sloop with a 13-foot boom. We told them that we were upgrading from a 4:1-purchase soft vang, that our objectives were convenience and safety, and stipulated that there were no suitable fittings on the mast or boom for attaching the new vang. We also mentioned that the mainsail on this boat weighed 50 pounds, and we described the spars as having rectangular grooves for the attachment fittings.

Selden Masts, which manufactures three different sizes of the Rodkicker, loaned us a mast and boom display mounted on a pallet, and we used this as a test platform for each vang. We looked closely at the vangs as well as the mounting fittings, which can vary according to the type of spar you have. We operated each vang multiple times and examined the construction quality, noted the stroke range, maximum return force, as well as the ease of use, and overall weight.

Vang Master Marine Products Engineering is a small manufacturing firm based in San Pedro, California, that also builds pneumatic actuators for doors, lids, and some other applications. Proprietor and designer Doug Grant has been building vangs for 14 years, and he is the supplier for Melges Boatworks and Ultimate Sailboats. His Vang Masters range in size from from 24 inches to 9 feet.

Grant uses 6061 T6 aluminum tubing that is hard-coat anodized and impregnated with Teflon. The end fittings are also machined from aluminum and hard-coat anodized. Except for the sheave and jaw attachment pins, MPE doesn’t use any stainless steel. These vangs operate with an 8:1 cascading purchase system using Harken blocks (including a ratchet block and cam cleat), the last part of which runs through a sheave in the upper end of the vang.

Grant says he presets the cylinder pressure on each vang, but he also includes a bicycle pump so that an owner can make his own adjustments. To change the pressure, you simply pump the vang up to whatever pressure you need to keep the boom level.

The lightest vang, the Vang Master also provided the smoothest action. This was surprising, because others like the Hall QuikVang or those from Garhauer come with greater mechanical advantage. The Vang Master VM-4 offers 16 to 18 inches of stroke range with up to 500 pounds of return force, and comes with a four-year warranty that covers any breakage under normal use. It sells for $845, including the pump, but not the end fittings ($110 for the boom, $145 for the mast).

Garhauer Marine Known for its rugged, if heavy, products, Garhauer Marine provides deck hardware for Catalina Yachts. The company supplied two vangs for our test: the RV20-1SL with a stainless outer tube, and the deluxe RV20-1AL, with a 6061 T aluminum outer tube, integrated purchase fittings, and a larger aluminum sheave in the head. Both vangs are intended principally to support the boom and both rely on 1½-inch diameter stainless steel springs — four in each case — to offer the resistance.

Garhauer includes in its price custom mast and boom fittings that are polished, beefy 316 stainless pieces with finely welded or machined components. The vangs featured similarly rugged construction. Except for the composite sheaves built into the vangs’ forked ends, all the sheaves in the 20:1 purchase are anodized aluminum, which spin on Torlon ball bearings.

These vangs have a wide stroke range — 8 to 12 inches — and they reliably returned our boom to the same position. Their construction appears to be bullet-proof (they carry a 10-year warranty) and they have the lowest prices of any vangs that passed our test ($374 for the RV20-1SL, and $429 for the duluxe RV20-1AL, including end fittings). Yes, they’re also the heaviest products, but not by much. Their main disadvantage is that, once they are installed, the resting height is not as adjustable as it is in other vangs.

Forespar Forespar’s Yacht Rod is made of a polished stainless steel inner tube and an Awl-Grip coated aluminum outer tube, and anodized aluminum forked ends. The Yacht Rod uses a single stainless steel spring for resistance. It’s marketed as both a device for supporting the boom and for trimming the sail in cruising or racing applications.

The Yacht Rod, which is built in three sizes, has a 4:1 tackle using Harken fiddle blocks and 7/16” line. A section of Spectra line attaches to that and runs through an aluminum sheave in the upper end’s fork to create an 8:1 purchase.

Forespar offers several sizes of mast and boom end fittings for its Yacht Rods (sold as part of the package or separately). The majority of these are fashioned from polished stainless steel. The welds on the fittings that were sent to PS were solid and well executed.

The outer tube has four holes at four-inch increments that accept a fast pin to adjust the boom’s height and allow a wide range of resting positions. This would be a handy feature to temporarily lift the boom in order to raise or lower a dodger or bimini. Forespar’s otherwise excellent installation instructions lacked a detailed drawing of the mast end, which would be a big help.

This vang was simple to install and operated fairly smoothly, but the spring did squeak slightly when compressed. The medium-size Yacht Rod has a stroke range of 7 inches, and provides 600 pounds of return force. It comes with a warranty of three years and sells for $873, including the tackle and end fittings.

Hall QuikVang Roughly five years ago, Hall Spars introduced the pneumatic QuikVang 2000, but, citing “complexities with its use,” has stopped production. Hall plans to introduce a new vang, which we’ll test and present in a future issue. For this evaluation, we looked at the conventional

QuikVang, a top performer in previous tests, and a product that Hall has been building for 20 years.

Marketed principally as a sail-trimming device, the QuikVang has anodized aluminum tubing and end fittings as well as a stainless steel spring. A Delrin plug in the inner tube acts as a piston to compress the spring when the 18:1 purchase system is tensioned. Delrin sleeves between the two tubes reduce friction and snug tolerances between the spring and the outer tubing keep the spring in column. Once installed, you can adjust the vang’s resting height in one-inch increments by loosening the set screws on the adjuster knob.

The purchase system features Harken blocks and Yale Dacron braided line, and includes a ratchet block and cam cleat so you don’t need any additional deck hardware for basic operation. Three parts of the purchase use stainless wire over aluminum sheaves, which are mounted in the jaws of the vang. Hall’s end-fittings are machined from aluminum and then hardcoat anodized.

The QuikVang was easy to install and adjust. It operated smoothly and reliably returned the boom to its initial position. One convenient feature is a ratchet that lets you release the control line under heavy load. And Hall’s booklet of instructions is very complete, including information on installation, operation, and maintenance. This model has a stroke range of 6 inches, 600 pounds of return force, comes with a three-year unconditional warranty, and sells for $906, not including end fittings.

Seoladair’s Boomkicker Seoladair, a small manufacturing firm just outside of Chicago, IL, produces stowable fenders, rolling boom bales, and the Boomkicker. This product is simple and will suit owners who want something to support their boom and work in tandem with an existing soft vang.

The Boomkicker, which is sold in five sizes for boats from 14 to 38 feet, is simply a set of fiberglass rods. The rods are held captive at either end with hardcoat anodized aluminum collars and attach to the mast and boom via durable, machined and anodized aluminum fittings. Users can further customize the Boomkicker by cutting the rods to a shorter length.

PS found the Boomkicker simple to install and easy to use. The 1500 we tested came accompanied by a 4:1 tackle using Harken blocks (and cam cleat) as well as a short section of Spectra run through an additional block to create an 8:1 purchase. Also included was an aluminum attachment tang for the purchase system, as well as a drill bit, stainless fasteners, and a tap to secure the fittings to the boom. (In most cases, the mast fitting uses the luff groove for attachment and no drilling or tapping is necessary.) At 4.5 pounds, the Boomkicker is the lightest in this test. The model we tested offers 600 pounds of return force with a stroke range of up to 16 inches, and carries a five-year warranty. It sells for $309, not including tackle, which we found for $173.

Last year, Seoladair introduced a new sliding boom fitting, which includes a 16-inch section of aluminum track and a car for the upper end. Without this, the Boomkicker drop outs out of the boom when it’s raised well above horizontal. This is to prevent overloading of the fittings. We’d definitely shell out the extra $108 for the new boom fitting.

Selden’s Rodkicker Selden’s Rodkickers come in four sizes for boats from 22 to 60 feet and use gas-pistons for their return force. These pistons are mounted inside rectangular anodized aluminum extrusions that are mated to anodized aluminum end-fittings secured with Monel rivets. This vang came with an external 4:1 block and tackle using Rutgerson fiddle blocks with a cam cleat, which Selden sells as an option. The tackle connects to a large stainless wire that runs over a composite sheave integrated into the vang’s upper end fitting, creating an 8:1 purchase.

We tested the Rodkicker 20, which is rated for boats from 35 to 42 feet. To specify its vangs, the company first looks at righting moment and rig type, and thereafter considers the weight of the boom and sail. The Rodkicker 20 claims a stroke range of seven inches and a return force of 876 pounds using the normal gas piston. The inner extrusion is capped by a composite plug, which acts as a bushing.

It took PS testers about 20 minutes to read the instructions and assemble the Rodkicker 20, which arrived in three boxes. It mounted easily to the machined boom (aluminum) and mast (stainless steel) fittings that the company supplied. The first time we used it, this vang took the most force (roughly 60 pounds) to compress, but it operated smoothly after that. Bernie Beasley at Selden told us that operation of each vang relies on the weight of a full boom and sail resting on it. With that factored in, he said, we wouldn’t have experienced as much initial resistance.

Selden offers a two-year warranty on the Rodkicker. The 20 sells for $685, not including tackle. We were impressed by several aspects of this vang. Where clevis pins are used to connect the vang to the boom and mast, the end fittings have recesses to keep the cotter pins from sticking out and doing damage. And the boom fitting uses three Allen screws for attachment. These can either be tapped into the spar or dogged down for compression attachment. Selden also offers a universal boom bale for booms without an integral track.

Sparcraft Based in France, Sparcraft has manufacturing facilities for mast, booms, and rigging systems there and in the United States at Charleston Spars in Charlotte, North Carolina. The Ocean Vang uses anodized aluminum tubes that compress a stainless steel spring by way of an external 4:1 purchase system to deliver a return force of 300 pounds The vang has sheaves integrated into its end fittings, and there are no external blocks, which simplifies the arrangement, but limits the amount of purchase available. (Some vangs are sold with additional external tackle.) The polished, 316 stainless-steel brackets for mast and boom come in various sizes and configurations.

Installation was simple and straightforward, which was good because the vang arrived with no instructions. You’ll need to lead the the control line to a swiveling, pivoting block mounted on deck because the sheaves in the vang don’t articulate and the line won’t otherwise lead in a fair fashion when the boom is off centerline.

PS found two problems with the Ocean Vang. Its spring was squeaky and it didn’t regularly return the boom to its initial point after we installed it. When we opened the unit, we found that the design doesn’t keep the spring in column. When the spring moves off-center — as is almost certain to occur any time the spring is under load — the spring rubs directly on the outer tube, producing friction and squeaking. We applied some WD 40 and the vang worked more smoothly and squeaked less, though it still didn’t perform satisfactorily.

Jim Kulibert, Charleston Spars’ director of sales, told us that our experience was an anomaly. He says the company has furnished hundreds of these vangs to boats over the years and they never receive complaints of squeaks or binding.

This size Ocean Vang retails for $279, which includes the control line, but not the brackets for the mast ($39) or boom ($42). The vang carries a one-year warranty.

Conclusions For cruising sailors, it’s most important that a rigid vang works to support the boom and secondarily to trim the mainsail. If simple support is what you’re after, almost all of these products are suitable. Factor in ease of operation, and you can whittle that group down by excluding the Sparcraft’s Ocean Vang, which we have given a Don’t Buy rating.

If post-installation adjustment is the next criterion, you can overlook the vangs from Selden and Seoladair, which worked perfectly well in all other aspects. So, you’re left with our selection of vangs from Garhauer, Forespar, Hall, and Marine Products Engineering (the Vang Master). The Garhauers offer limited adjustment pre-installation, the

Yacht Rod adjusts in 4-inch increments, the QuikVang in 1-inch increments, and the Vang Master’s range is virtually unlimited.

If you want a basic rigid boom vang that is well built and functions smoothly for the least dollar outlay, Garhauer is the clear choice. Astoundingly, these rugged vangs are about half the price of those from the other builders, and with a 10-year warranty, they are hands down our Budget Buy.

If you are interested in a smoothly operating vang that you can use to reliably control your mainsail, those from Forespar or Hall fit the bill and earn our Recommended rating. But of all the vangs, the Vang Master from Marine Products Engineering has the best adjustability, the smoothest operation, the longest stroke range, and the longest warranty of these three, and thus, even with it’s high pricetag, it is our Best Choice overall.

Also With This Article “Vang Types” “PS Recommended” “PS Value Guide: Boom Vangs”

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Boom preventers: How to use one and why they’re worth the hassle to rig

February 20, 2020

The two minutes it takes to rig a boom preventer properly can pay off in so many ways, yet still a lot of sailors consider it an unnecessary hassle. Pip Hare begs to differ

boom-preventers-pip-hare-sailing-masterclass

Preventers should be rigged from the end of the boom to avoid damage in an accidental gybe

Rigging a boom preventer will allow you to sail a true downwind course without a constant worry about crew safety. I also use it to pin the boom in its preferred position in light winds with sloppy seas.

When racing short-handed with a symmetric spinnaker it also allows me to use aggressive windward heel to make extra metres to leeward. Here are a few of my top pointers for getting the most out of this valuable set-up.

Fixing point

The preventer should be attached to the outboard end of the boom to avoid damaging the tube in the event of an accidental gybe . Some boom end castings have a designated hole through which a preventer can be attached.

boom-preventers-pip-hare-sailing-masterclass-bowline-loop

A large bowline loop (the red striped line) affixes the preventer to the boom. The knot can be reached without sheeting the boom in to the boat

If this is not the case then a large bowline loop passed around the end of the boom between the clew and the end casting will work just as well. The loop should be long enough so it can be undone from the side deck without the need to re-centre the boom.

Alternatively, to avoid hauling the boom in every time the preventer is required, make a strop around two-thirds of the length of the boom with an eye in both ends. One end can be permanently attached to the boom and the other will be attached to the running part of the preventer.

The strop can be accessed easily from within the footprint of the deck while the mainsail is out. When not in use, the strop can be tensioned with an elastic cord from either the kicker fitting or inboard boom casting.

Article continues below…

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1. The Southern Ocean stormer VO70 MAPFRE buries into a wave at high speed, slows down and when the apparent…

Video – installing and testing a rope preventer and boom brakes to safely manage accidental gybes

A shout, the mainsheet whips through the cockpit and the boom crashes onto the other side of the boat…

Think of the preventer as a part of your running rigging. It works in opposition to the mainsheet and so needs to be accessible from the cockpit and easy to trim in as you let the mainsail out. For maximum resistance to an involuntary gybe the preventer line should lead from the boom end as far forward as possible, then back to the cockpit.

I often use a forward mooring cleat in lieu of a turning block, making use of the fairlead to avoid toe-rail chafe. If you have no mooring cleats available then use a snatch block on the toe rail or mid-foredeck.

The preventer line should be trimmed from the cockpit using a winch. Often the best winches for this function are halyard winches as they tend not to be in permanent use. This may mean feeding your line under a sprayhood.

If you have absolutely no winches free, then it is also possible to take the line back along the deck to a stern mooring cleat. If choosing this option, check for chafe as the line passes down the deck and ensure the preventer leads into the cleat with a fair or open angle so it can be eased smoothly under load.

As soon as your preventer is rigged, make sure your crew are aware of what to do in the event of a gybe, both planned and accidental. For a planned gybe ease the preventer out as the mainsheet is pulled in. Once the attachment point can be reached safely, a crewmember should detach it, working from the leeward side of the boom in case of an early gybe.

Once gybed, set it up again on the other side. Accidental gybing with a preventer rigged can be alarming, especially in the dark, with the noise made by the sail and the windward heel of the boat. In most cases, if the main loads up from behind, the helmsman should gently steer the boat back onto the original gybe. Be aware that the windward heel caused by the backed mainsail will bear the boat away further, so take action promptly.

In the worst cases, boat speed will slow significantly, and steering the yacht back onto the original gybe becomes impossible. In this case the preventer must be eased under control. Make sure all crew are away from the path of the boom and traveller, then gently ease the preventer with sufficient wraps around the winch to maintain smooth control. Pull in the mainsheet as it becomes slack, then gybe the main as normal.

Boom preventer tips

Do not tie off the preventer forward. This would require a crew member to go forward for a release in the event of a gybe, whether voluntary or not.
Resist the temptation to improvise a ‘quick fix’ to avoid pulling in the main by, say, tying vang fittings to the toe rail.
On longer passages regularly check your preventer for chafe, particularly where it crosses the toe rail, or if you are using a mooring cleat as a turning block.
A preventer line should be around 1.5 times your boat length and the same diameter as your mainsheet. Double braid polyester is ideal.

First published in the September 2017 edition of Yachting World.

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A boom vang or kicking strap on a sailboat used to exert downward force on the boom and thus control the shape of the sail. Boom vangs helps control boom height which determines twist, or the shape of the mainsail leech during different wind conditions.

Sailboat Block & Tackle sets come with both of the blocks and a cleat to create a full boom vang system in one product. Simply select the purchase that you need and the working load based on your boat size.

If you are expecting a lot of light wind sailing and want to add some extra shape to your leech, add a rigid boom vang to hold up your boom so you don't have to. Instead of having to install and remove a topping lift, just keep a Sailboat Rigid Boom Vangs on your boom to keep it up even while you are gone.

Hydraulic Boom Vangs are used on larger sailboats and controlled by manual or electric hydraulic pumps.

Find Boom Vangs at MAURIPRO Sailing. We are your go-to online store for all sailboat equipment!

MAURIPRO Sailing, your direct access to Boom Vangs and all your other sailing and boating needs.

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Cruising Boat Spotlight - Hunter Vision 32

Tips From The Teach: The Boom Vang

By: Zeke Quezada, ASA Cruising Tips

Elbert “Ash” Ashbaugh

We all have questions and it seems like a boat is a perfect place to be perplexed by a lack of knowledge even if you are a salty veteran of the sea. Not to worry, our resident expert, Elbert “Ash” Ashbaugh, can help answer your questions and help you spend more time sailing and less time thinking about those pressing issues that are keeping you up at night.

Q: Hi Ash! I have a boom vang that I have never even touched! What am I supposed to do with this thing?

Ash: As a general rule, a boom vang helps shape the sail. On an upwind leg, especially if you’re overpowered, tighten the vang to depower the main by flattening the sail.

On the downwind side of life, before you bear away, ease the vang — this will make the mainsail fuller. Then trim the main so the top batten of the sail is parallel with the boom.

That’s an extremely basic overview, but the boom vang is important, so experiment and learn!

Q: I have to confess, sometimes I hear other boats sounding horns and I don’t know what’s going on. What am I hearing?

Ash: You’re not alone in not knowing what these horn signals mean, but it’s really crucial to know a few of these important ones. If you hear five short blasts that means, “I’m not sure of your intentions.” In other words, you’re making someone nervous and you need to clarify whatever you’re doing.

You might often hear 1 short blast. Keep your head up and understand that the boat you’re hearing is altering its course to starboard. If it is two short blasts, they are altering their course to port.

There you have it. You should know that there are sound signals that are different depending on whether they are in international or US inland waters, but these examples apply to both and are the more common and relevant of the sound signals that you’ll hear in your day to day travels.

Oh, and also be mindful that while it’s usually an actual air horn that you’ll hear, it could also be the sound whistle. Small boats often carry whistles.

Tip From the Text – A Tip from ASA’s Coastal Cruising Made Easy Remember! A stern light arc is 135-degrees. This arc of white light visibility is the same as the overtaking zone. So when you are sailing at night, visualize that area and use it to help determine if you are overtaken or overtaking. Sailing is a thinking person’s game! Always watching, calculating and remembering!

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The Running Rigging On A Sailboat Explained

The running rigging on a sailboat consists of all the lines used to hoist, lower, and control the sails and sailing equipment. These lines usually have different colors and patterns to easily identify their function and location on the vessel.

Looking at the spaghetti of lines with different colors and patterns might get your head spinning. But don’t worry, it is actually pretty simple. Each line on a sailboat has a function, and you’ll often find labels describing them in the cockpit and on the mast.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the functions of every component of the running rigging. We’ll also look at the hardware we use to operate it and get up to speed on some of the terminology.

The difference between standing rigging and running rigging

Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly:

The rig or rigging on a sailboat is a common term for two parts, the standing , and the running rigging.

The standing rigging consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the sails when sailing. Check out my guide on standing rigging here!
The running rigging consists of the halyards, sheets, and lines we use to hoist, lower, operate and control the sails on a sailboat which we will explore in this guide.

The components of the running rigging

Knowing the running rigging is an essential part of sailing, whether you are sailing a cruising boat or crewing on a large yacht. Different types of sailing vessels have different amounts of running rigging.

For example, a sloop rig has fewer lines than a ketch, which has multiple masts and requires a separate halyard, outhaul, and sheet for its mizzen sail. Similarly, a cutter rig needs another halyard and extra sheets for its additional headsail.

You can dive deeper and read more about Sloop rigs, Ketch Rigs, Cutter rigs, and many others here .

Take a look at this sailboat rigging diagram:

Lines are a type of rope with a smooth surface that works well on winches found on sailboats. They come in various styles and sizes and have different stretch capabilities.

Dyneema and other synthetic fibers have ultra-high tensile strength and low stretch. These high-performance lines last a long time, and I highly recommend them as a cruiser using them for my halyards.

A halyard is a line used to raise and lower the sail. It runs from the head of the sail to the masthead through a block and continues down to the deck. Running the halyard back to the cockpit is common, but many prefer to leave it on the mast.

Fun fact: Old traditional sailboats sometimes used a stainless steel wire attached to the head of the sail instead of a line!

Jib, Genoa, and Staysail Halyards

The halyard for the headsail is run through a block in front of the masthead. If your boat has a staysail, it needs a separate halyard. These lines are primarily untouched on vessels with a furling system except when you pack the sail away or back up. Commonly referred to as the jib halyard.

Spinnaker Halyard

A spinnaker halyard is basically the same as the main halyard but used to hoist and lower the spinnaker, gennaker, or parasailor.

The spinnaker halyard is also excellent for climbing up the front of the mast, hoisting the dinghy on deck, lifting the outboard, and many other things.

A sheet is a line you use to control and trim a sail to the angle of the wind . The mainsheet controls the angle of the mainsail and is attached between the boom and the mainsheet traveler . The two headsail sheets are connected to the sail’s clew (lower aft corner) and run back to each side of the cockpit.

These are control lines used to adjust the angle and tension of the sail. It is also the line used to unfurl a headsail on a furling system. Depending on what sail you are referring to, this can be the Genoa sheet , the Jib sheet , the Gennaker sheet , etc.

The outhaul is a line attached to the clew of the mainsail and used to adjust the foot tension. It works runs from the mainsail clew to the end of the boom and back to the mast. In many cases, back to the cockpit. On a boat with in-mast furling , this is the line you use to pull the sail out of the mast.

Topping lift

The topping lift is a line attached to the boom’s end and runs through the masthead and down to the deck or cockpit. It lifts and holds the boom and functions well as a spare main halyard. Some types of sailboat rigging don’t use a topping lift for their boom but a boom vang instead. Others have both!

Topping lifts can also be used to lift other spars.

A downhaul is a line used to lower with and typically used to haul the mainsail down when reefing and lowering the spinnaker and whisker poles. The downhaul can also control the tack of an asymmetrical spinnaker, gennaker, or parasailor.

Tweaker and Barber Haul

A tweaker is a line, often elastic, attached to the sheet of a headsail and used to fine-tune the tension on the sheet.

Barber haul

A barber haul is a line attached to a headsail’s sheet to adjust the sheeting angle to the wind. It is often used to pull the clew further toward the center or outboard than the cars allow.

Boom Preventer

A boom preventer is a line attached to the boom’s end when sailing off the wind. Its function is to hold the spar in place and prevent it from swinging wildly.

If the boat were to get an accidental gybe, it could cause serious damage to the rigging or even harm people on board. It is important for the rigger to be cautious when setting up the boom preventer.

Running Backstay

Running backstays is similar to a normal backstay but uses a line instead of a hydraulic tensioner. Some rigs have additional check stays or runners as well.

Bonus tip: Reefing

The term reefing is used when reducing the effective sailing area exposed to the wind of a given sail. Headsails are usually reefed by partially furling them in, and they often have marks for what we refer to as 1st, 2nd, and 3rd reefs.

The mainsail is reefed similarly with an in-mast furling or in-boom furling system.

On a traditional mast, we use a system called slab reefing. The system has reefing lines running through the boom to reinforced points on the luff and leech, allowing you to pull the sail down to the boom and effectively reduce the sail area.

Having at least two reefing points in the mainsail is normal, but most cruising sailboats have 3. The 3rd is used for the heaviest conditions, giving you only a tiny bit of sail area exposed to the wind.

You want to reef your sails before the wind increases to a point where your boat gets overpowered.

It is essential to practice your reefing technique . You will find yourself in situations with rapidly increasing winds where you need to reduce your sails quickly.

Rule of thumb: If you think setting a reef might be a good idea, do it.

Shaking a reef is the term used when we sail with a reefed sail and want to increase the sail area back to full.

Hardware used for sail handling and the running rigging

Furling system.

Most sailboats have their headsail on a furling system. A furling system is a tube that runs along the forestay from the bottom furler drum to the masthead swivel.

This system allows you to roll the headsail around the forestay, making furling the sail in and out accessible. It is also convenient when reefing the sail when the wind picks up, as you can easily do this from the safety of the cockpit. These furling systems come in manual versions and electric versions.

In-mast furling

In-mast furling is a system that rolls the mainsail in and out of the mast. To unfurl the mainsail, we use the outhaul .

In-boom furling

In-boom furling is a system that rolls the mainsail in and out of the boom. This system has been costly and has mostly been seen on big yachts earlier. They are becoming more affordable and common on smaller boats, though. To unfurl this setup, we use the main halyard.

A Stack pack is also called a Lazy Bag or Lazy Pack. It is a bag with a zip attached to the boom where the mainsail is stored when unused. It protects the mainsail from UV rays from the sun and weather elements. It is a very nice and tidy way to store the mainsail and reefing lines if you don’t have in-mast or in-boom furling.

Lazy Jacks is a system of lines running from the stack pack to the mast. The Lazy Jacks guide the mainsail up and down from the Stack Pack and prevent it from falling down on the deck. It is also possible to rig Lazy Jacks without a Stack Pack.

A block is a pulley with a sheave wheel. Blocks are used to change the direction of a pull on a line or rope and give a mechanical advantage. They have many uses, especially onboard sailboats.

A winch is a metal drum that gives you a mechanical advantage to control and tighten lines. These can be operated by turning a rope around it and pulling manually or by a winch handle to get more force. Most modern winches are self-tailing, which means they lock the line on so you can winch the line without holding on to it. Some boats even have electrical winches operated by a button.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a horizontal track that the mainsheet is attached to through a series of blocks. The traveler enables you to adjust and lock the boom at an angle and also plays a critical part in trimming the mainsail.

Most cruising sailboats have their traveler attached to the top of the coachroof in front of the spray hood. A racing boat typically has the traveler in the cockpit near the helm to give the helmsman better control over the mainsheet.

The cars are basically a pulley or block attached to a track on the port and starboard deck that your headsail sheets run through. Cars are used to control the angle of the sheet between the clew and the deck. The cars are handy when you trim the sail to set the right balance of tension between the foot and leech, depending on your point of sail.

The jammer is used to lock a line in place. Most sailboats use these for locking the halyards, mainsheet, outhaul, reef lines, traveler lines, boom vang lines, etc. You can pull or winch a line through a closed jammer, but it won’t run away if you let go of it unless you open the lock.

As I explained earlier, it is normal to have most or all of the lines led back to the cockpit, and they are usually run through a series of jammers.

The jammers are often labeled with the name of the line it locks, which makes it easier to remember which line goes where.

Spinnaker Pole

A spinnaker pole is a spar used to wing out a headsail when sailing off the wind, particularly the spinnaker. The spinnaker pole should have the same length as the distance between the mast and the forestay measured along the deck. We use a fore and aft guy and the pole’s topping lift to rig a pole correctly.

The rigging varies depending on the layout of the boat, but it usually looks like this:

One line runs from the bow to the end of the pole.
An aft line runs from near the stern to the end of the pole.
A topping lift is used to raise and lower the pole.

Whisker Pole

A whisker pole is similar to the spinnaker pole and is rigged similarly. It is typically built lighter and attached to a track on the mast. These can be found in fixed lengths or adjustable lengths. Ideally, the length should be the same as the foot of the headsail you intend to pole out.

Boom Vang/Rod Kicker

The Boom Vang has a few different names. Rod-kicker, kicking strap, or kicker. It is used to tension the boom downwards. When you are sailing downwind and have the boom far out, the mainsheet won’t pull the boom down as much as inboard, and you can then use the vang to adjust the twist and shape of the mainsail.

Mooring line

A mooring line is a traditional rope lead through a fairlead to the vessel’s cleat and a mooring buoy, key, or pontoon.

Final words

Congratulations! By now, you should have a much better understanding of how the running rig on a sailboat functions. We’ve covered the different lines, their purpose, and the hardware used to operate them. I hope you’ve enjoyed this guide and learned something new.

Now it’s time to take what you’ve learned and put it into practice by getting out on the water, setting sail, and getting hands-on experience with the lines.

Or you can continue to my following guide and learn more about the different types of sails .

Sharing is caring!

Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

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Hydraulic vangs change the height of the boom to help control sail shape. They also function as a topping lift to hold the boom up when reefing, and to keep it level when the sail is flaked. Harken offers a full range of vang cylinders. The HYCV single-acting gas return is the standard vang used for most boats up to approximately 23 m (75'). For larger yachts with heavier booms Harken offers more powerful push/pull double-acting vangs. The standard double-acting vang is the HYCZ push/pull vang. All vangs are made to order. Specify desired PCLC (pin center length closed) in millimeters rounded to the nearest 10th. Standard vangs are black hardcoat-anodized aluminum with rod clevis and cylinder end clevis.

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Regain control with an upgraded boom vang or replacement vang parts or line for your Laser / ILCA sailboat from the experts at West Coast Sailing. We offer the latest 16:1 class legal vang, the classic 3:1 vang, replica options, pre-cut line, and all the recommended blocks, pins, and fittings.

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Race / 16:1 Boom Vang System

This is the current vang set up found on most modern Laser / ILCA sailboats, offering a powerful 16:1 cascade system. It features a vang base unit, double block with becket in the center, and a vang block with key at the top end, using a length of 4mm or 5mm control line with a Dyneema/Spectra primary line.

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This is the vang assembly used on Laser sailboats until 2001. It is a simple 3:1 purchase, using a jam block at the base with a simple turning block with key at the top and a 10 foot length of control line. This set up is great for the casual sailor.

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COMMENTS

What is a Sailboat Boom Vang?
A boom gnav is one of the most intuitive pieces of sailboat equipment. The word "gnav" is "vang" spelled backward, and it performs the exact same task on the opposite end of the boom. A boom gnav exerts a downward force on the boom to counteract the upward force of the wind or rigging. A boom gnav pushes the boom down, whereas a boom vang pulls ...
Boom vang
A boom vang (US) or kicking strap (UK) (often shortened to "vang" or "kicker") is a line or piston system on a sailboat used to exert downward force on the boom and thus control the shape of the sail. The Collins English Dictionary defines it as "A rope or tackle extended from the boom of a fore-and-aft mainsail to a deck fitting of a vessel ...
Boom Vang Systems
The vang allows vertical adjustment of the boom, and is an extremely important tool to shape the main for speed. Tension the vang to tighten the leech, flatten the sail and bend the mast. Cruisers use the vang to keep the boom from rising when sailing downwind and abraiding the main. Typical boat length: Small Boat: 22' - 28' (6.7 - 8.5 m)
It's All In The Twist: Back to Boom Vang Basics
The vang will pull down on the boom and maintain a good upper leech angle, reducing luffing. When you come up to the wind, to 40-70 degrees apparent, the vang can still be in play. If you eventually do ease the mainsheet and traveler to adjust for any reason without touching the vang, the top of the main will twist off.
The Vang
The Vang. Boom vangs provide essential safety and twist control for sailboat mainsails. This article includes explanations and some helpful diagrams to inspire do-it-yourself riggers to design a system that works for them. Cascading block and tackle system: 2:1 wire or single-braid line cascade with 4:1 fiddle block & tackle. 2 x 2 x 2 x 4 = 32 ...
Control Your Mainsail Shape Better With a Boom Vang
Installation instructions. To install a boom vang on a C-22 or similar sailboat: 1. The vang should be installed at a 45 degree angle between the mast and boom. Measure the height of the top of the boom above the cabin roof with the mainsail at full hoist. For a Catalina 22, it should be 39″. 2.
The Vang
The Boom Vang, in its simplest form, is a block and tackle arranged in such a fashion that it applies downward force (also upward force, see rigid vang) to the boom. This will allow the sailor to control the tension of the leech at all points of sail, regardless of the boom's sheet tension. Although more purchase may be necessary, typically ...
Do I Really Need a Boom Vang?
Absolutely! The boom vang can be a misunderstood sail control. It takes over the job of pulling down on the boom once the mainsheet is eased. Upwind, the mainsheet pulls down as soon as the boom is over the traveler. Controlling the boom height determines twist, or the shape of the mainsail leech. If you don't use the boom vang in all but the ...
Boom Vang Sailing Fundamentals
A boom vang, also known as a kicking strap or vang, is a device used on a sailboat to control the angle of the boom relative to the mast, thereby affecting the shape of the mainsail. It plays a crucial role in sail trim , impacting the boat's overall performance and handling.
SAIL Trim Tip: Vang Power
Peter Nielsen. Aug 29, 2017. Vang Power. A boom vang helps to control mainsail shape after the limits of the traveler have been reached. Without a vang, the boom will lift as the mainsheet is eased, opening the leech, and the top of the sail will twist off to leeward, spilling the wind. If you are sailing downwind with the mainsail eased right ...
Ways to Use a Sailboat Boom Vang in Sailing
Let the sail bag out some. When sailing downwind in a strong wind, ease the vang to depower the mainsail by allowing the boom to rise and the sail to spill air high up (mainsail "twist"). Bring in the mainsheet if needed to prevent chafing of the sail against the shrouds and spreaders. After dropping the mainsail, raise the boom to give ...
Solid Vang Showdown
This size Ocean Vang retails for $279, which includes the control line, but not the brackets for the mast ($39) or boom ($42). The vang carries a one-year warranty. Conclusions. For cruising sailors, it's most important that a rigid vang works to support the boom and secondarily to trim the mainsail.
Boom preventers: How to use one and why they're worth the hassle to rig
A large bowline loop (the red striped line) affixes the preventer to the boom. The knot can be reached without sheeting the boom in to the boat. If this is not the case then a large bowline loop ...
Using the Boom Vang: Advanced Sailing Video Lessons
Using the Boom Vang: Advanced Sailing Video Lessons. Part of the series: Advanced Sailing Lessons. Learn how to use the boom vang in this free video on saili...
Boom Vangs
A boom vang or kicking strap on a sailboat used to exert downward force on the boom and thus control the shape of the sail. Boom vangs helps control boom height which determines twist, or the shape of the mainsail leech during different wind conditions. Sailboat Block & Tackle sets come with both of the blocks and a cleat to create a full boom ...
Tips from ASA Sailing Instructor on Boom Vang Use and Horns
On an upwind leg, especially if you're overpowered, tighten the vang to depower the main by flattening the sail. On the downwind side of life, before you bear away, ease the vang — this will make the mainsail fuller. Then trim the main so the top batten of the sail is parallel with the boom. That's an extremely basic overview, but the ...
Master The Running Rigging On A Sailboat: Illustrated Guide
Boom Vang/Rod Kicker. The Boom Vang has a few different names. Rod-kicker, kicking strap, or kicker. It is used to tension the boom downwards. When you are sailing downwind and have the boom far out, the mainsheet won't pull the boom down as much as inboard, and you can then use the vang to adjust the twist and shape of the mainsail. Mooring line
Boom (sailing)
1 - boom, 2 - mast, 3 - gooseneck, 4 - sail, 5 - topping lift... 7 - mainsheet, 8 - boom vang.... In sailing, a boom is a spar (pole), along the foot of a fore and aft rigged sail, that greatly improves control of the angle and shape of the sail.The primary action of the boom is to keep the foot flatter when the sail angle is away from the centerline of the boat.
Boom Vangs
Boom Vangs. Hydraulic vangs change the height of the boom to help control sail shape. They also function as a topping lift to hold the boom up when reefing, and to keep it level when the sail is flaked. Harken offers a full range of vang cylinders. The HYCV single-acting gas return is the standard vang used for most boats up to approximately 23 ...
Vangs
Boom vangs help to optimize sailboat performance. For sailors, there are few experiences that rival being on a powerful reach with perfectly trimmed sails. Of course, that kind of heart throbbing excitement requires the right gear and knowing how to use it. Proper rigging can make a sailor's job easy and when it comes to sail trim, and a ...
Rigid Boom Vangs, Boom Vang Hardware & Fittings
Yacht Rod Boom Fittings. Available in 2 options. $252.76 - $253.56. Special Order Only. 1-15 results of 15. 1. Fisheries Supply is your premier supplier of rigid boom vangs from top brands. We offer a full range of quality boom vangs for sailboats, including the Rodkicker from Selden, the Yacht Rod from Forspar or the Boomkicker - all rigid ...
Laser / ILCA Sailboat Boom Vang & Rigging
Nautos USA. $3.96. 1. 2. Next. Race / 16:1 Boom Vang System. This is the current vang set up found on most modern Laser / ILCA sailboats, offering a powerful 16:1 cascade system. It features a vang base unit, double block with becket in the center, and a vang block with key at the top end, using a length of 4mm or 5mm control line with a ...
Boom Vangs
Dynamic Dollies. Dynamic/Seitech Dollies Compatible Parts. Type 1: Boats up to 250 lbs Dollies. Type 2: Laser, Byte & Invitation Dollies. Type 3: Curled Gunwale Boats Dollies. Type 4.1: Small/Med Bowsprit Boats Dollies. Type 4.2: Heavier Sprit Boats Dollies.

Boom Vang vs. Mainsheet

What Does a Boom Vang Do?

Importance of the Boom Vang

Boom Vang Types

What is a Boom Gnav?

Boom Vang Maintenance

Check the Mounting Points

Inspect Blocks and Tackle

Hydraulic Boom Vang Maintenance

What is a Boom Jack?

Adjusting the Vang

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Do I Really Need a Boom Vang?

I’ve barely ever used my boom vang. Do I really need one?

The Discussion

Boom Vang Sailing Fundamentals

Key Takeaways

What is a Boom Vang?

Basic Components

Function and Purpose

Rigid: rod, spring-loaded, hydraulic piston

GNAV (topping lift replacement)

Choosing the right type for your boat

Pros and cons of each type

Installation and Setup

Installation process

Troubleshooting common installation issues

Adjusting the Vang

Sail trim adjustments

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Maintenance and Safety Considerations

Safety considerations

Emergency procedures for equipment failure

Advanced Techniques

Offshore and heavy weather

Final Thoughts

What is a sea water strainer, and how does it work?

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