sailboat and anchor

7 Best Sailboat Anchors

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

As long as it's the right one, your sailboat anchor is the best insurance you'll ever buy.

The right sailboat anchor will depend on the type and size of your sailboat, your planned area of sailing, and the weather conditions that you expect to encounter. So there are no shortcuts but to choose the best sailboat anchors based on these factors.

Anchoring, at its core, is all about securely fastening your sailboat using the best sailboat anchor so that it doesn't float away when the winds or tides start shifting.

And whether you're planning for a day's fishing trip to your nearest lake or going for an offshore voyage, an anchor is unquestionably essential in ensuring the safety of both you and your sailboat.

A good anchor not only gives you the much-needed peace of mind but gives you the ability to securely anchor your sailboat on a nice bay, grab a quick lunch, or explore the nearby reefs.

More importantly, you'll appreciate the importance of choosing the best sailboat anchor for your boat when you have to ride out a storm.

There are lots of excellent sailboat anchors that are a great fit for your boat. The most important is to understand what makes a high-quality anchor so that you can make an informed choice when buying the best sailboat anchor for you and your vessel. This will depend on things like the size and type of your sailboat, where you want to sail to, and the projected weather and the type of bottom of where you'll be sailing at.

Needless to say, there are a lot of sailboat anchors out there that it can be very confusing. In this article, we'll discuss how to choose the best sailboat anchor for your boat. More importantly, we've done thorough research and review the best sailboat anchors just to make the process of choosing the best sailboat anchor for you as easy as possible.

Table of contents

How to Choose the Best Sailboat Anchor

Choosing the best sailboat anchor on various things such as the type and size of your boat, the type of bottom where you're planning to anchor your boat on, the weather conditions, and many more. For example, anchoring a 24-feet sailing boat on a muddy bottom will not be the same when using the same anchor when anchoring a 49-feet sailboat on a rocky bottom. More importantly, choosing the best sailboat is all about finding the right balance in terms of the size of your boat, the type of the bottom where you're sailing at, the climate conditions, and the amount of time that you're planning to be anchored.

Here is what you need to consider.

The Size of Your Boat

The size of your boat will determine the type of anchor that's appropriate based on its weight and resistance. For example, a claw anchor can be great for boats measuring between 16 feet and 50 feet. In essence, having a bigger boat will require an anchor that is bigger and has more holding power. On the other hand, a smaller anchor with less holding power will be ideal for a smaller boat.

Your Anchoring Time

The holding power of your anchor can be affected by the amount of time you are planning to anchor your boat. If you're planning to anchor your boat for longer periods, it would make a lot of sense to have an anchor with high holding power. Differently, you can go with an anchor with less holding power if you're planning to anchor your boat for a few hours.

The Bottom Type

The shape and sharpness of an anchor will determine how good an anchor can hold your boat in different types of bottoms. For example, claw anchors can struggle in rocks and corals but work perfectly in sand and mud. On the contrary, grapnel types of anchors can work great in rocks but don't work in sand or mud. It all depends on the bottom type of the area you're planning to sail at. 

Anchor Material

The type of material used in manufacturing the anchor is of great importance in terms of its functionality, reliability, and durability. Most anchors are galvanized to prevent them from rust and also for a better price. However, stainless steel anchors offer better anchors in terms of quality and aesthetics.

Without further ado, let's jump straight in.

1. Lewmar Galvanized Delta Sailing Anchor

(Best for Larger Boats)

Although several modern types of sailboat anchors have taken the anchor industry by storm, some traditional anchor designs still hold their ground today and the Lewmar Galvanized Delta Sailing Anchor is one of them. It's designed with a single, sharply pointed wedge fluke that has a similar shape to a plow and really gets into the ground. It digs down and holds so secure for larger boats measuring over 21 feet.

This is a superb sailboat anchor that performs exceptionally well on most bottom types save for rocks. You'll love the fact that it holds extremely well in softer bottoms such as sand and mud. This anchor is made from high-grade manganese steel and is galvanized with a protective layer of zinc to prevent it from rusting. It's also more light than most anchors so stowing and transportation shouldn't be a problem.

Having been a hallmark anchor for many years, this anchor guarantees reliability and will hold excellently even in stormy conditions. Launching it is also easy thanks to its ballasted tip and streamlined shank and will set the first time thanks to its self-righting design.

• ‍ Perfect for larger boats
• Very durable
• Approved by several National Lifeboat Associations
• Comes with a perpetual guarantee against breakage
• Easy to launch
• Very secure
• ‍ Quite expensive
• Requires tripping line to release it from the seabed
• Not great for rocky bottom

2. Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor

(Best for Changing Weather Conditions)

As the best-selling sailboat anchor currently available in the market, it's easy to see why the Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor is the most highly rated anchor by multiple independent reviewers. Built for strength and versatility, this anchor works great with a wide range of boats, which is a very unique feature. Coming in sizes ranging from 9 to 606 pounds, this anchor is so versatile and gives you the option of choosing the right size for your sailboat.

This remains the most dependable anchor in the market, especially in the roughest of conditions. It holds all types of the seabed so fast and has a roll bar that's crucial in ensuring that your boat's weight is not only distributed appropriately but the boat sets at the right angle. Its Vulcan design and sharp tip allow it to snug fit on the bow and to get right into the seabed respectively.

This is an anchor that draws the best features from traditional sailboat anchors such as spade and bagel anchors to become one of the best modern sailboat anchors out there.

• ‍ Perfect for stormy conditions
• Great for all types of seabed
• Very versatile and available in a wide range of sizes
• Perfect for all types of boats
• It has an easy storage design
• It's designed by a well-known brand
• ‍ Very expensive
• ‍ Its shank is only perfect for  bigger flukes

3. Manson Galvanized Supreme Sailing Anchor

(The Fastest Setting and Highest Holding Anchor)

If you're looking to purchase the best sailboat anchor from a well-established brand, look no further than the Manson Galvanized Supreme Sailing Anchor. This anchor has been in the market for the better part of the last two decades and still holds its ground as one of the best sailboat anchors out there. The fact that it is perfect for all types of seabed makes it a great option for sailors who are on a budget.

This sailboat anchor has an indisputable reputation all over the world as the fastest setting and highest holding anchor. This is because it's uniquely designed for extreme holding conditions thanks to its standard bow rollers and a dual operation shank that's designed with the utmost versatility in mind. Whether you're looking to anchor in mud, sand, or rocky areas, this anchor will never disappoint you.

• ‍ It has an extremely high holding power
• It's the fastest setting anchor in the market
• It's perfect for all types of seabed including rocky areas
• Its safety is guaranteed as it has passed multiple tests
• It's very durable
• Designed for extreme weather conditions
• ‍ It's heavy, which can bring difficulties in stowing and transportation
• Very expensive

4. Danforth S-600 Standard Sailing Anchor

(Best for Smaller Boats)

At this point, you shouldn't have any doubt that some of the more traditional types of anchors still have a place in the anchor industry today. The Danforth S-600 Standard Sailing Anchor is a traditional fluke anchor that's extremely perfect for smaller boats but can also be used as a secondary anchor for larger boats. Having been developed in the US back in the 1940s, this type of anchor is similar to the modern CQR anchor and doesn't compromise on quality and reliability even in rough weather conditions.

It's lighter than most anchors, so stowing or transporting it shouldn't be a problem. In terms of its holding power, it has an excellent power-to-weight ratio and can hold quite fast in sand and mud. The fact that it is a fluke type of anchor makes it not perfect for coral, rock, or gravel bottoms.

• ‍ Perfect for smaller boats
• It's good for sandy and muddy substrates
• Lightweight and compact
• Has a holding power of about 600 pounds
• Constructed with high-strength galvanized steel
• Quite affordable 
• ‍ Not ideal for rock, coral, or gravel substrates
• Can only be used as a secondary anchor on larger boats (over 27 feet)
• It has moving parts

5. Lewmar Claw Anchor

(Best for All Types of Seabed)

If you're looking for the best sailboat anchor that will serve you perfectly in all types of substrates, the Lewmar Claw Anchor can be an ideal choice. Previously known as the Bruce or Claw type anchor, this anchor has a three-pronged design that enables it to easily set in any bottom. It doesn't matter whether you want to anchor in an area with mud, sand, rock, coral, gravel, or grassy bottom, this anchor will hold its ground.

It can be a great option if you're on a tight budget and want to buy an anchor that doesn't have a complete design while going about its duty quietly. It's so versatile thanks to the fact that it's available in sizes ranging from 4.4 pounds to 44 pounds. What's more; it's made from high-grade steel and it's very durable. If anything, it draws inspiration from the anchors used in securing oil rigs in the North Sea. 

• ‍ Excellent for all types of substrates
• It's very versatile
• It's durable
• It's very affordable
• ‍ Its odd shape makes it difficult to stow

6. Mantus Galvanized Sailing Anchor

(Perfect for Dense Grassy Bottoms)

The level of functionality that the Mantus Galvanized Sailing Anchor brings to the table is unmatched. This is an anchor that offers unparalleled holding power as it can dig a lot deeper than most anchors out there.

It's strongly built but can come apart to make it a lot easy to store and transport. Its sharp-headed nose gives it maximum penetration power, though it may not hold quite well in low viscosity sea beds. This anchor is highly dependable yet very expensive so it might not be an ideal option if you're on a budget. So if functionality is your top priority when going to an area with dense grassy bottoms, it can be your ideal option. 

• ‍ Very functional and dependable
• Perfect for dense grassy bottoms
• Easy to store and transport
• Made from high-quality steel
• Comes with a lifetime warranty against breakage
• ‍ It has moving parts
• It's very expensive

7. Norestar Stainless Steel Delta/Wing Boat Sailing Anchor

(Highest Quality Anchor)

One of the most important things when in the market for a good sailboat anchor is quality. Well, the Norestar doesn't disappoint on this front as it's manufactured using the highest quality stainless steel. This stainless steel is strengthened with micron thick PVD coating that gives it a highly urbane appearance.

Its design is also one of the most popular anchoring systems in the maritime industry today. This is because it offers impeccable security and gives you the peace of mind knowing that your boat is safe at all times.

• ‍ It is self-launching
• Made from the highest quality stainless steel
• It sets easily
• Perfect for most bottoms
• It's lightweight and has no moving parts
• ‍ Not ideal for bottoms with hard sand
• Quite expensive

There you have it; these are the best sailboat anchors in the market. An anchor is one of the most crucial parts of safe sailing. Whether you're looking to moor at the harbor or to explore far-reaching areas in the water, a good anchor is your number safety and insurance while on the water.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Anchoring Made Easy: A Newbie’s Guide to Securing Your Sailboat

What is anchoring?

Anchoring is a fundamental aspect of boating that involves securing your sailboat in a specific location using an anchor and chain.

When you anchor your sailboat, you are essentially creating a stable and secure position for your boat, regardless of the wind or current.

Table of Contents

Can you anchor a sailboat anywhere?

No, you can’t anchor just anywhere.

• First and foremost, you need to be aware of any regulations or restrictions in the area you plan to anchor.

Some harbors, marinas, or waterways have specific rules regarding anchoring, and it’s important to respect these guidelines.

• In addition, you’ll need to consider the bottom conditions.

Anchoring in rocky or weedy areas can make it difficult for your anchor to dig in and secure your sailboat . Ideally, you’ll want to find a sandy or muddy seabed, as these provide better holding power for anchors .

• Furthermore, you should avoid anchoring in areas with heavy boat traffic.

Not only can this increase the chances of collisions, but it can also make it difficult for you to safely drop and retrieve your anchor.

Choosing the Right Anchor and Chain Size

The size and weight of your anchor will determine its ability to hold your boat securely in place, while the chain provides additional weight and strength to keep the anchor in position.

So, how do you choose the right anchor and chain size for your sailboat?

• First, consider the size and weight of your sailboat .

Larger boats require larger anchors and chains to provide adequate holding power.

As a general rule of thumb, it’s recommended to use an anchor that weighs 1 pound for every 2 feet of boat length.

So, if you have a 30-foot sailboat, a 15-pound anchor would be appropriate.

• Next, think about the type of bottom you’ll be anchoring in.

Different anchor designs work better in different types of seabeds, such as sand, mud, or rocks.

For sandy bottoms, a fluke or plow-style anchor is often recommended, while a grapnel or claw anchor is better suited for rocky bottoms.

Picking the Right Spot to Anchor

Choosing the right spot to anchor your sailboat is essential for a safe and enjoyable experience on the water. Whether you’re planning a short stop or an overnight stay, finding the perfect location can make all the difference.

So, how do you pick the right spot?

• First, consider the depth of the water.

You’ll want to find a spot with enough depth to accommodate the draft of your sailboat, plus some additional clearance to account for tides or changes in water levels.

Consult nautical charts or use a depth sounder to determine the water depth in the area you plan to anchor.

• Next, assess the bottom conditions.

Look for a sandy or muddy seabed, as these provide better holding power for anchors.

Avoid areas with rocky or weedy bottoms, as they can make it difficult for your anchor to dig in and secure your sailboat.

• Consider the surrounding environment as well.

Look for sheltered areas or natural features such as coves or bays that can protect from strong winds or currents . These areas will offer a more comfortable and secure anchorage for your sailboat.

• How Many Anchors Should You Have For Your Boat?
• The Power of Anchors: Why You Should Use Them to Keep Your Boat Safe
• Mooring Made Easy: A Step-by-Step Guide to Picking Up a Mooring for Your Boat
• How To Dock Your Boat Like A Pro: Stern-In, Bow-In, And Alongside

Preparing Your Sailboat for Anchoring

When preparing your sailboat for anchoring, there are several important things you need to do to ensure a smooth and successful docking experience.

Here are four essential tasks to complete before dropping your anchor :

1. Check your equipment: Before setting sail, make sure you have all the necessary anchoring equipment on board.

This includes an anchor, chain, and any additional gear such as a buoy or buoy line. Inspect your equipment to ensure it is in good condition and free of any damage or wear.

2. Secure loose items: Stow away any loose items on your sailboat that could become a hazard during the anchoring process.

This includes things like ropes , fenders, or loose equipment. Secure these items in designated storage areas or tie them down to prevent them from shifting or falling during anchoring.

3. Clear the deck: Remove any obstructions from your deck that could interfere with the anchoring process.

This includes items like cushions, coolers, or other personal belongings.

Clearing the deck will provide you with a clean and clutter-free area to work in when dropping anchor .

4. Prepare your crew: Brief your crew on their roles and responsibilities during the anchoring process.

Make sure everyone knows where to be and what to do when it’s time to anchor.

Assign specific tasks to each crew member, such as handling the anchor or controlling the helm, to ensure a coordinated and efficient docking experience.

The Step-by-Step Guide to Anchoring Your Sailboat

Follow these instructions, and you’ll be able to safely and effectively anchor your boat in no time.

1. Choose your anchor location

Before you start the process, select a suitable location to drop your anchor . Consider factors such as water depth, bottom conditions, and nearby hazards.

Once you’ve chosen the spot, approach it slowly and stop the boat when you’re in the desired location.

2. Prepare your anchor and chain

Make sure your anchor is ready for deployment. Remove any tangles or knots in the chain and ensure it’s securely attached to the anchor.

Double-check that the anchor is properly stored and accessible for deployment.

3. Determine the amount of anchor chain

Decide how much anchor chain you need to deploy based on the depth of the water.

A general rule of thumb is to use a ratio of 5:1 or 7:1 for the length of the anchor chain to the depth of the water. For example, if the water is 10 feet deep, deploy 50 to 70 feet of chain.

4. Drop the anchor

Carefully lower the anchor over the bow of your boat while paying out the chain.

Use a controlled speed and avoid letting the chain drop too quickly, as this could damage your boat or the anchor.

Make sure the anchor hits the bottom before releasing the chain.

5. Set the anchor

Once the anchor is on the bottom, put the boat in reverse at idle speed to ensure the anchor is firmly embedded.

Give it some time to settle and check that the boat is staying in position. Use a landmark on shore or your GPS to monitor any drifting.

6. Secure the anchor

Once you’re confident that the anchor is set, cleat off the chain or secure it to a bow cleat to prevent any accidental movement or slippage.

Double-check that the anchor is holding by slowly reversing the boat to put some pressure on the anchor.

• Congratulations! You’ve successfully anchored your sailboat. Remember to monitor your position and the anchor’s holding power throughout your stay. If you need to reposition or adjust the anchor, follow the same steps in reverse order.

How long can you be at anchor for on a sailboat?

In general, you can stay anchored for a few hours or overnight, but it’s important to check local regulations to ensure compliance.

Some areas have time limits for anchoring or require permits for longer stays.

Additionally, you’ll need to consider the weather forecast. If there are strong winds or rough seas expected, it may not be safe to remain anchored for an extended period.

What side of the vessel you should never anchor?

There is actually one side you should avoid at all costs: the bow , or the front of the boat.

Anchoring on the bow can lead to several problems and safety hazards.

Firstly, it can interfere with the boat’s steering and maneuverability, making it difficult to control the vessel in tight spaces or when approaching docks .

Secondly, anchoring on the bow can cause the boat to swing in unpredictable directions, especially when wind or currents change.

This can increase the risk of collision with other boats, docks, or hazards in the water.

To avoid these issues, always anchor your sailboat off the stern, or the back of the boat. This allows for better control and maneuverability, as well as a more stable anchoring experience.

Additionally, anchoring off the stern keeps the bow free for easy boarding and disembarking, making your sailing experience more convenient and enjoyable.

What happens when a sailboat drag anchor?

When a sailboat drags an anchor, it means that the anchor is no longer holding the boat in place.

This can occur for several reasons, such as changing wind or current conditions, a poorly set anchor, or inadequate anchor line length.

As the boat starts to drift, it can potentially collide with other boats, docks, or even run aground.

In this situation, it’s important to act quickly and calmly.

First, assess the immediate surroundings to determine any potential dangers or obstacles.

Then, try to reset the anchor by moving the boat in the opposite direction of the drift and dropping the anchor again.

If this doesn’t work, you may need to find a new anchorage or consider alternative methods, such as using a second anchor or seeking assistance from nearby boaters.

Boat Anchoring Techniques Explained (Illustrated Guide)

The basics of anchoring in calm conditions in an anchorage with good holding aren't difficult to master, and you should start with basic anchoring techniques if you haven't read it already and practiced setting your hook.

This article is for when anchoring isn't so easy, but you still have to stop your boat and stay secure. There are several approaches you can take for anchoring in tricky bottoms, bad weather, or in other special situations where conditions are less than ideal.

Your tools are skills and equipment, and a little advance preparation can give you a lot of options.

On this page:

Solve difficult bottoms with different anchors, dealing with tough anchoring conditions, other situations that may prove difficult, special gear (how & why to use it).

We can solve most challenging bottoms with a different choice of anchor, but that's not always an option since you can't stock your bow locker with every type of anchor on the market. Most sailors have two anchors - a primary all around anchor, and a backup. When choosing your backup anchor, make sure it's different from your primary, since two anchors of the same type don't buy you anything with varying bottom conditions.

With most tricky bottoms, more scope is always better than less. So if your anchorage has the swing space, add an extra helping of rope or chain when you set.

Most difficult bottom: rocks

Rocky bottoms and solid rock are probably the most difficult anchoring, since it's nearly impossible for an anchor to cut into the bottom and set. Solid rock is trickier than a rock strewn bottom, and nearly impossible to get a good holding without a lot of weight. A spade or plow can find something to dig into with a rocky bottom, but not much can hold on solid rock.

Fisherman's anchor

The fisherman's anchor is a good choice for rocky bottoms, since it relies more on weight and catching than on digging in like fluke and spade anchors. Mushroom anchors can work, but both mushroom and fisherman's anchors must be heavy to hold, since the weight of the anchor has to do a lot of the work.

On-shore anchors

As an alternative to anchoring, consider using things on shore like trees and other fixtures with a deep water stern anchor. If you can get a stern anchor to set outside the rocks, you can run a line to shore and keep your boat in place.

Use a trip line instead

And if you know you're anchoring in rocks, consider using a trip line. Or if you have a slotted anchor shank, like you'll find on a Rocna, Manson, or other modern anchor, be sure to move the shackle there before you drop anchor - it will help you recover it and decrease your chances of getting stuck fast.

Anchors don't dig in in soft silt

Anchors tend to just sink into silt and soft mud, then drag through without digging in when you try to set them. Thick silt isn't much thicker than water at the top of it, and your anchor has nothing to catch. Anchoring in a really soft bottom requires patience, since your best technique is to let the anchor settle into the soft mud before you try to set.

Drop your anchor in the selected spot, but when you get some scope out, let it sit for a while. A long while - in some places it can take fifteen to thirty minutes for your anchor to sink through the ooze to reach med think enough to catch.

Once you're gotten your anchor nestled into the silt, try setting it gently. Idling back on it in reverse should help it catch in the thicker mud under the soft stuff. Avoid a final "hard set" with this bottom type unless you're expecting some wind.

Avoid false sets in weeds and grass

Like rock bottoms, your best choice for a weedy bottom is an anchor which works well in weeds. Some anchors can not cut through the tough mat of roots and fiber under a weed bed, or have flukes which tangle in the vegetation instead of digging in.

Roll bar anchors will work

Modern roll bar anchors do pretty well in weeds and grass, but some plow and fluke anchors can be quite difficult to set. If your primary anchor is a CQR, fluke, or other anchor known to fare poorly in grass and weeds, try another anchor if you have one.

One caution - even the best anchors for grass and weeds may "false set" on you. They can catch on the grass and weeds and feel like they've caught bottom, but if they load up or the wind shifts, you may have troubles. Take extra care to back down hard to make sure your anchor is dug into the bottom.

Avoid coral heads if you can

Coral heads or "bommies" are in tropical anchorages all over the world, and some remote atolls give you no choice but to anchor near or among them. Anchoring badly among bommies can cause a mess - your anchor chain will get snaked and wrapped through and around the coral heads. Not only is this hard to get out of, but it is terrible for the coral and you should avoid it.

Set up floats

The first thing to look for around coral heads is a large patch of clear sand to drop your anchor. It may be tough to find, but you don't want to drop your anchor on top of hard coral. You won't be likely to find enough open sand for your whole swing range, so you'll need to rig up some floats to keep your chain out of the coral.

Your goal is to get the last 1/3 of the chain to hold you on the bottom, but use your string of three or more fenders to keep the rest of the chain suspended in the water above the coral heads. Your fenders will almost completely sink while you do this, but they will keep the chain from getting tangled.

Start by making your initial drop on that patch of clear sand and let up from one third to one half your expected rode out. Then tie a fender to the chain with a stout line and let out another 1/3 of the remaining rode. Tie on another fender, and let out another 1/3 of the remaining rode. Tie on a third fender, and let out the remaining rode and snub it.

Anything which reduces visibility and hearing, adds shifting forces on the boat, or increases the loads on your anchor will add a challenge to your successful anchoring. If you plan and practice, you can get through it and get a good set.

Communication is key when you have someone on the bow and someone on the helm, and well-practiced hand signals are a must. Headsets can help, but if you use them, make sure you have hand signals to back them up.

Prepare in case of heavy weather

Anchoring in bad weather is fraught with difficulty. Driving rain cuts visibility, howling winds can make communication near impossible even with headsets, and heavy wind will drive you out of position quickly as you try to get the anchor down to the bottom.

The best first step to anchoring in bad weather is to talk your plan out ahead of time. You may have trouble communicating with the person on the bow, so if everyone on board knows the plan for anchoring, you'll do better if you can't hear each other or see hand signals. Heavy weather anchoring cuts across a lot of the tough conditions in our list, but if you're trying to escape a bad weather system, you may have little choice but to deal with it once you've ducked out of open water into a more protected anchorage.

High wind will make positioning hard

High wind causes several problems anchoring. The first is the effect on the boat - with a lot of wind, your boat's windage is much more pronounced, and as you slow down to anchor, it becomes harder to hold the boat on station and put the hook where you want it. Your bow is much more likely to fall off, and while idling into position you may even get blown to a stop or pushed backwards. If you stop, you lose the ability to steer and the wind may push you out of position.

When holding station to drop anchor, try these tips:

• Use a little more engine power and come up to your anchor drop point with a little more speed to maintain steerage. Not a lot more, but an extra knot can keep your ability to steer.
• You will blow backward quickly, so don't let the boat fall back until you've got enough rode out to hit bottom. Use small pulses of the engine forward to stay in place without overrunning the chain.
• If you have main furling, cheating a tiny amount of sail out can help keep you pointed into the wind, like an anchoring sail on your stern might. You don't want too much sail area, since it may start driving the boat forward or even cause heeling. But a small triangle can help keep the boat in irons so you aren't swinging all over as you drop.

Communication will be harder

The other complication is communication - wind won't affect your hand signals, but wind noise can mess with radios by causing a loud hiss in your microphones that drowns out voices. If you use headsets with foam wind mufflers, make sure they're installed. If you don't have them or are using handhelds, a little piece of cloth can cut that wind hissing right out. A thin sock slipped over a handheld radio looks silly, but does a great job muffling wind noise.

Low visibility requires lights or radar

You can lose your visibility in heavy rain, fog, or darkness. Your solutions for each are a little different, as is the impact.

The primary risk of using hand signals without radios is lost visibility; if you can't see the bow, you can't communicate. In darkness, the fix is easy. Make sure bow and helm people have lights, and shine them on your hands when signaling (and not in each other's eyes!). Headlamps work well for this, since helm and bow both need their hands.

Lights won't help you in driving rain or fog, there you will need to do your best with hand signals or use a waterproof radio on the bow. Fortunately, rain and fog are rarely heavy enough to block vision from the helm to the bow, but if it is talking, your plan out first is critical.

If you have radar, make sure it's on when you come into an anchorage in poor visibility, and zoom it in far enough to distinguish boats and estimate distances. While everyone should have lights, we all know there's no guarantee of it. And judging distance from anchor lights in the dark is difficult. Whether it's fog, rain, or dark, your radar can light up the boats around you and give you a clue about their relative positions as you pick your place to drop anchor.

Tidal currents may cause drag

Dropping in tidal currents isn't difficult, but staying anchored can be. A strong pull in one direction can give you a great set, but when the tide changes and starts ripping a couple of knots in the other direction, it can pull your anchor out and cause you to drag.

When anchoring in a tidal zone, always note where you are in the tidal cycle - how much time until the next high or low, and which way it's moving. For the most extreme tidal currents, consider a Bahamian Moor with your two anchors in line with the current. For more details, see our article on using two anchors .

REMEMBER - most places with tidal currents also have a pretty big tidal swing. When you figure out your scope, you need to calculate your ratio from the top of high tide, so you don't get caught up short if you anchor near low tide.

If you anchor with only one anchor, take care to set extra hard, and use extra scope if there is room. Expect your anchor to reset every tide cycle, so the extra rode will give it time to re-bury itself, or even keep it from resetting.

Avoid anchoring in deep water in bad weather

Anchoring out in deep water always feels like standing on the edge of a cliff; there was never quite enough grip to really rest or feel comfortable. But sometimes, you have no choice - it's all there is, but it may be a little nerve-wracking.

If you have an all-chain rode, you can anchor in water up to about 1/3 of your rode length in calm and settled conditions . The conditions are the key - if you can not get out enough scope for wind and weather, you should not stay in a deep anchorage if bad weather develops.

For more detail, check out our article on deep water anchoring:

How to Anchor a Boat in Deep Water (like the ocean)

Sometimes, anchoring isn't so hard, but once you get settled in, you realize things aren't as comfortable as you hoped. When we dropped anchor at Santa Cruz in the Galapagos, it was comfortable when we arrived. But a few hours later, the ocean swell started coming in, and the wind on our bow kept us pointed across the incoming rollers, resulting in a sickening side-to-side roll as the boat swung at anchor.

This is avoidable.

Roll and Chop

If you're in an anchor with a lot of roll in it, set a stern anchor to point your bow into the roll and chop instead of letting your boat swing in the breeze and roll side to side. The up and down motion is much easier on your inner ear and will let you sleep at night. Don't worry about swinging into the wind unless you're expecting bad weather. But if you're expecting bad weather, an anchorage subject to swell isn't a good place to be, anyway.

The key is to keep the roll from hitting the side of your boat and creating that horrid motion.

Tight Quarters

Anchorages can be tight in two ways - they can be crowded, or they can be small or narrow. For crowded anchorages, look at our specific advice on handling a crowd .

With a tight anchorage, you don't want to risk swinging into shallows or bumping into rocks or other hazards. Fortunately, there are a few ways to deal with this.

• Use a stern anchor
• Try a Bahamian Moor if there is room; it should keep your boat swinging on a single point.
• Tie one or more lines to shore to stop you from swinging.

The goal of these approaches is to keep your boat fixed in position or in a very limited swing radius. The best tool will depend on where you are anchoring and how much space you have with sound things to tie off to.

The market is awash with products to help you anchor more easily, but do they all work? The short answer is that some of them can help you, in some circumstances, but the effectiveness of some of them is debatable. And you can cause difficulties if you misuse them.

A kellet is a weight you attach to a midpoint in the catenary on the anchor rode. The theory is that it pulls the rode down more sharply to the bottom and gives a better angle of attack for pulling loads on the anchor shank. This is supposed to help increase holding power. Evidence and testing shows that once the wind blows hard enough to straighten out the rode, the effect of a kellet goes almost to zero for adding holding power.

That doesn't mean they have no value, especially with rope/chain combination rodes. A kellet can reduce the swinging and dancing your boat does at anchor by holding the rode down. But don't expect it to perform any miracles for you while anchored out in a forty-knot blow.

Anchor swivels eliminate twisting in the rode when you pull up the anchor. Some anchors are prone to spin like propellers when they hauled through the water, and this can put an undesirable twist in chain and rope. Too much twist can cause binding and knotting, and make pulling the anchor up in the right orientation to slide into the bow roller challenging.

If you are experience twist in your rode, look into swivels. Some manufacturers suggest them for their anchors, so heed their advice if you choose their anchors.

But an unnecessary swivel adds another weak point to your anchor rode, so if there is no need for one, don't add it. It's one more moving part to corrode, seize up, or break.

Trip lines are handy ways to get leverage on our anchor from points other than the end of the shank where the rode attaches. Many anchors provide extra loops, rings, and attachment points for a trip line, and they can be very helpful with obstructions on the bottom. Everything from rocks to discarded junk can catch on your anchor, and pulling a plow from the front may be a better way to dislodge it than hauling straight up on the shank.

You can rig trip lines with a float, or a line can be secure to the rode when the anchor is set. Either way, you need to take some care that the trip line doesn't tangle into the anchor or break loose until you need it.

Marker Floats

Marking a trip line with a float is an easy and convenient way to keep your trip line clear of the business end of the anchor, while making retrieval easier since you'll know exactly where your anchor is.

But they will make you very unpopular in a crowded anchorage, and you should only use them when there is plenty of space around you.

Remember - everyone swings together in a crowded field, and there will be times when your boat will swing right over someone else's anchor. If that anchor has a floating ball and a line on it, there's a risk it can bang your boat or get fouled on your rudder or propeller. A marker float increases how much open water you and your boat take up, and few people use them for this reason.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Best anchors: 8 new generation designs suitable for every boat

• Rupert Holmes
• January 27, 2022

Most boats would benefit from upgrading to a better anchor for a host of reasons. We take a look at 8 of the best anchors on the market right now

Securing your anchor do it is ready to drop could get you out of a tight spot when you can't sail out of trouble. Credit: Theo Stocker

Good ground tackle and understanding how to anchor properly opens up the option to stay overnight in stunning bays and creeks, away from costly marinas and expensive harbour moorings. And picking the best anchors is essential in terms of safety too as you may well need it to hold you off a lee shore in the event of engine failure.

However, unless your boat’s anchor has been upgraded recently, the chances are it’s of a type that will not provide good holding power.

What to look for in a good anchor?

Much has changed in the world of anchors in the past 20 years, which led to classification societies such as Lloyds adding a new Super High Holding Power certification category for these anchors in 2008.

Most of the best anchors exceed the requirements for this by a wide margin.

These advances in anchor technology and different types of anchor mean older boats won’t have been equipped with what we would now consider to be decent ground tackle when they were new.

This is also true for most vessels built in the last 20 years. Until recently the latest generation of anchors was relatively expensive, so were generally only fitted as standard equipment to very high quality yachts.

The various brands of today’s very high holding power anchors share a number of key characteristics that make them more effective than older products.

The best anchors tend to have a concave profile akin to the shape of a shovel. This digs more firmly into the seabed without tending to act like a plough when under load.

Another important aspect to look for in a good anchor is the tip weight, as loading as much weight here as possible is a massive help in enabling it to penetrate weed and other difficult types of sea bed.

Typical new generation anchors have 35-45 per cent of their weight on the tip. Some also have roll bars that prevent the anchor landing on the seabed upside down.

Whatever anchor you choose, beware of cheap unbranded copies. These rarely have the precise geometry needed to maximise holding power. Some are also badly cast and therefore weaker than the original design.

At a glance:

Note: we may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. this doesn’t affect our editorial independence., 7 of the best anchors on the market right now.

Rocna Galvanised Anchor

This was one of the first of the new generation of ultra high holding power anchors and quickly gained much acclaim, despite an initially high price tag.

The Rocna is well engineered and has an excellent reputation for digging in quickly and easily. Once set it then offers excellent holding.

A roll bar is incorporated, but a downside of Rocnas is they do not stow neatly on all bow rollers.

To solve this problem the company developed the Vulcan series, which doesn’t have the roll bar and is shaped to fit on a wider range of bow rollers.

Reasons to buy:

– Good quality anchor

– Excellent holding power

Reasons to avoid:

– It is expensive

– Do not stow neatly on all bow rollers

Specifications:

– Size: 96 x 41 x 39 cm

– Weight: Available in 10kg, 20kg and 25kg

Buy it now on Amazon.co.uk

Buy it now on Amazon.com

Buy a Rocna Vulcan on Amazon.co.uk

Buy a stainless steel Rocna Vulcan on Amazon.com

Lewmar Stainless Steel Epsilon Anchor

Read PBO’s Lewmar Epsilon review

The latest model from this UK company offers the benefits of a new generation anchor at very attractive prices.

It has a winged design with concave flukes to maximise holding power in a variety of sea beds, a ballasted tip that enables it to dig in readily and is self righting, even though the roll bar is optional.

The Epsilon is intended as a direct replacement for Lewmar’s long-running plough style Delta anchor.

Although the Epsilon’s shank is proportionately shorter, the two models share the same basic shank geometry. Therefore, if a Delta fits your bow roller then an Epsilon will also fit.

– Easy to handle

– Designed to fit any bow roller that works for the Delta

– It has a shorter shank

– Size: ‎55 x 35 x 30cm

– Material: stainless steel

– Weight: ‎6.1kg

Buy it now on eBay

Buy it now from Amazon

Buy it now from West Marine (US only)

Fortress FX-11

This aluminium anchor is an older design from more than 30 years ago, but still has a number of advantages that makes it an excellent choice in some circumstances.

It’s biggest feature is very light weight relative to the holding power the anchor provides. This makes it a perfect option for performance catamarans and trimarans, as well as for smaller fast motor boats.

The key downside, however, is that the holding power is achieved through the surface area of the flukes, not the weight of the anchor. This means it’s physically larger than other anchors, although it comes apart like the Spade for easier stowage.

A neat feature is that the angle of the flukes can be varied to suit different types of sea bed.

– Perfect for catamarans and trimarans

– Easy to manoeuvre thanks to its light weight design

– Flukes can be adapted to the type of sea bed

– Larger than other anchors

– Holding power is from the surface area of flukes

– Size: ‎73.66 x 15.24 x 7.62 cm

– Material: aluminium

– Weight: 8 pounds

Spade Anchor S series

This is another popular modern anchor, but with an important difference to other brands.

The hollow shank can be removed to make stowage easier. This makes it an excellent choice for racing yachts and other vessels that don’t permanently keep the anchor on the bow, or for occasional use as a kedge.

There’s no roll bar, but the tip loading is close to 50 per cent of the total weight, which helps it to dig in and set quickly.

The main drawback of the Spade is one of cost – it’s more complex to manufacture than other designs, so the price is relatively high.

– Good option for racing yachts

– The hollow shank can be removed

– No roll bar

– Expensive

– Size: S40 to S160

– Material: galvanised steel

– Weight: 6kg to 55kg

Buy it now from Jimmy Green Marine

Knox Anchors

Professor John Knox spent a great deal of his spare time researching the loads on anchors and rodes.

His work in this area over a period of 20 years contributed a huge amount to our understanding of anchoring and precise causes of anchors dragging or breaking out.

It also led him to develop his own design of anchor that would offer significantly better performance compared to the popular models at the time. It was therefore one of the first of the new generation designs.

The Knox anchor has a patented divided fluke with sharpened edges set at an angle that enables it to dig into the seabed quickly and efficiently.

It’s fitted with a roll bar and, while the shank is made of the highest tensile strength steel available.

– Made of the highest tensile strength steel

– Patented divided fluke with sharpened edges set at an angle to dig into the seabed

– We can’t find any

– Material: highest tensile strength steel

– Weight: 6.5kg to 27kg

Buy it now from Knox Anchors

Stirrup Anchor Bugel Anchor

The Bügel was one of the very first new generation anchors and quickly set a new benchmark in the industry.

It has a flat fluke with lower surface area than later designs, plus a roll bar and a shank made of thick plate.

This makes it a relatively inexpensive anchor, which is undoubtedly a key factor behind its enormous popularity, even though later products offer higher holding power.

– Good value anchor

– It features a rollbar and shank

– Other products offer higher holding power

– Size: 66 x 28cm to 86 x 38cm

– Material: Hot-galvanised steel

– Weight: 9 to 16kg

Buy it now from compass24.com

Manson Supreme Anchor

This was the first anchor to receive Lloyds Super High Holding Power certification when the classification was introduced in 2008.

It’s a fabricated design that uses two layers of steel for the fluke and relies on a roll bar, rather than a ballasted tip, to self-right.

The upper slot in the shank is intended for use in rocky sea beds, or anchoring in coral . The idea is that if the anchor becomes stuck the rode can be slid to the shank end of the slot, enabling the anchor to be retrieved without using a tripping line.

The shape of the anchor is designed to fit all conventional anchor rollers.

– Good for use on a rocky sea bed

– The anchor fits all conventional anchor rollers

– Other products offer innovative designs compared to this classical anchor design

– Size: 18′ – 30′ to 40′ – 45′

– Weight: 7kg to 20kg

Buy it now from Marinesuperstore.com

Ultra Marine Ultra Anchor

Read Yachting Monthly’s Ultra Anchor review

Our sister title Yachting Monthly recently tested the new 12kg Ultra Anchor from Ultra Marine over several nights at anchor.

Editor Theo Stocker said: “I was impressed with how quickly the anchor set.

“While our normal 10kg Bruce anchor can struggle in soft sand and weed, the Ultra anchor buried itself almost completely and refused to drag.

“The Ultra’s performance amply delivers on its maker’s promises as is comparable to other stainless anchors,” he concluded.

– Handmade and hand-polished stainless steel

– Ready to dig in

– Not the cheapest option on this list

– Weight: 5kg to 8kg

18 Most Popular Sailboat Anchor Types

Being able to anchor out after having arrived in a cozy and isolated bay to enjoy the rest of the day in complete contentedness or simply anchoring right outside a marina to save a bit of time and money is an amazing luxury to have.

To properly set a sailboat anchor, however, requires a good quality, dependable anchor , so knowing the different sailboat anchor types is a must.

Knowing which sailboat anchor type is best for you depends on which conditions you’ll mostly be using your anchor. If you’re like most people, you’ll only need to choose between a few sailboat anchor types, but it’s always good to know about all the options available to you.

That’s exactly why I put together a list of the most popular sailboat anchor types that you’ll want to consider adding to your sailboat the next time you’re out on the water setting anchor.

However, there has been a resurgence in terms of anchor design over the years, so I’ll be distinguishing between the classic and modern sailboat anchor types.

What Makes a Good Anchor

Before we dive into the many different sailboat anchor types, we should quickly cover what makes a good anchor .

Depending on the circumstances, you’ll want one anchor over another. However, there are certain qualities we want in almost all of our anchors before we set out on a sailing adventure.

• Fast Dig in Time: It’s important that any anchor you use has the ability to dig into the seabed as fast as possible. The sooner the anchor is attached to the seabed, the earlier your chain will lay out.
• Buries Deep into the Seabed: Ensuring your anchor can bury well into the seabed means it’ll be firmly attached to the Earth. The anchor chain does most of the work when keeping your sailboat from moving much, but the anchor’s position must be solid.
• Holds a High Load: There are a lot of different sailboats of different sizes. Making sure the anchor you have has a sufficient surface area, flukes, and holding power is of the utmost importance for ensuring a strong holding power.
• Maneuvers Well During Tide and Current Shifts: There will be times when the tide, currents, and wind move your sailboat around while anchored out. Being confident your anchor can effectively maneuver under these conditions while staying well enough in place is a very important quality.

Classic Sailboat Anchor Types

Let’s take a look at some of the classic types of anchors used in sailboats.

You’ll most definitely see these anchor types in sailboats all over the world, so it’s a good idea to get accustomed to them and understand their advantages and disadvantages.

Fisherman/Admiralty Anchor

Probably the most common image of a sailboat anchor that’s conjured up in our heads is the traditional Fisherman/Admiralty anchor.

This sailboat anchor type is what we see on many coats of arms or similar symbols and can still be found on sailboats all over the world.

• Can be stowed flat.
• Holding power in sand, mud, or other loose seabed is good.
• Less likely to break due to few moving parts.

Disadvantages

• Relatively heavier than other anchors causing difficulty to move them.
• Damage to the sailboat can be caused by the anchor’s flukes when being tossed around.
• Possibility of the anchor chain getting tied up in the vertical fluke.

CQR/Plough Anchor

The CQR or Plough anchor was developed in 1933 in the UK and has been a very popular sailboat anchor type ever since.

Named CQR because it sounds like the word “secure” when being pronounced, it’s a versatile type of anchor since it can secure a sailboat even when tides and currents change all of a sudden.

• Holds very well in soft seabeds such as mud or sand.
• Relatively light anchor that still provides a strong holding power.
• Digs into the seabed well compared to other sailboat anchor types.
• Oddly shaped so stowing can be difficult.
• Moving parts can get damaged and can cause injuries to fingers.
• Sometimes requires a tripping line to remove from the seabed.
• Not ideal for seabed with kelp or hard sand.

Danforth Anchor

The Danforth anchor is a type of anchor for a sailboat that was developed back in the 1940s in the US and specifically designed for WW2 landing craft.

Since then they’ve been used in all kinds of sailboats and are a common sailboat anchor type for those anchoring often in loose seabeds, like sand or mud.

• Excellent hold when in the sand, mud, or other loose seabeds.
• Relatively light anchor that still provides a strong holding power (similar to the CQR anchor).
• Not ideal when anchoring in rocks.

Delta Anchor

Not unlike the design of a CQR/Plough anchor, a Delta anchor is a popular type of anchor for sailboats nowadays.

The main difference between a CQR anchor and a Delta anchor is that a Delta anchor has no moving parts and is thus fixed into one piece. This sailboat anchor’s been around since the 1980s and is a great alternative to a CQR anchor.

• No moving parts that pinch your fingers.

Bruce Anchor

Another popular anchor developed in the UK, the Bruce or Claw anchor was developed in the 1970s and has a reputation of being a good type of sailboat anchor in many settings.

This type of anchor doesn’t have any movable parts and has an effective way of realigning itself with changes in the wind and tide.

• Digs well into the seabed.
• Holds well in soft seabeds such as mud or sand.
• Easy to break out when pulling it in.
• Difficulty in penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

Grapnel Anchor

A Grapnel anchor is well suited for those looking to anchor in more rocky and coral-filled areas where there’s little seabed around that’s soft.

The great part about having a Grapnel anchor is that it can easily catch quickly by using its hooks to grab on to surrounding objects.

• Holds well in hard seabed environments such as rock or coral.
• Not ideal for soft seabeds like sand or mud.

Modern Anchor Types

Now that we’ve reviewed the more classical anchor types, let’s dive into the newer generation of sailboat anchor types that you’ll run into more and more as the years progress.

It’s not unlikely that you’ll find one of these newer generation anchors on your sailboat, so let’s see what they’re all about.

Bugel or Wasi Anchor

The Bugel or Wasi anchor was designed in Germany by a man named Rolf Kaczirek and set the stage for a new approach to anchor design around the world.

This anchor has a roll bar attached to a single delta that’s flat and sharply pointed allowing it to penetrate most seabeds it encounters.

• Digs into a diverse set of seabeds.
• Has a relatively lightweight.
• No moving parts.
• Relatively inexpensive to purchase.
• Roll bar moves weight away from the tip causing potential less digging.
• Not ideal for very large sailboats.

Spade Anchor

The Spade anchor is an innovative sailboat anchor type that was designed in France in 1996. It’s an extremely light anchor that has an effective gripping power that’s quite similar to a Delta anchor but instead compacts the floor much better.

The holding power of a Spade anchor is known to be extremely powerful.

• Very lightweight.
• Digs into the seabed quite well.
• Can be disassembled for easy stowing.

Rocna Anchor

One of the most popular types of anchors for sailboats today, the Rocna anchor is a very good choice for an anchor. It was originally designed in New Zealand in 2004 and has since taken the anchor industry by storm.

By combining the best design feature from the Bugel and Spade anchors, it truly has set itself apart. It’s by far the most popular for cruising sailboat worldwide.

• Very strong holding power.
• Has the ability to dig into almost any seabed.
• Excellent surface area.
• Difficult to stow sometimes due to the row bar component.

Manson Supreme Anchor

The Manson Supreme anchor was designed in 2003 and has become a popular sailboat anchor in recent years due to it being able to have a very high holding weight and ability to settle fast.

Since it has a dual operation shank, it’s able to effectively dig into all seabed types with ease. It even has the rollbar design that the more modern anchors are known for.

• Has been known to be heavy.

Bulwagga Anchor

The Bulwagga anchor not only has a funny-sounding name, but it’s also one of the more uniquely designed anchors in the world. Instead of having the normal three flukes, it has a total of three.

Needless to say, this anchor has been well tested and proven to be a highly effective anchor in many situations.

• Has the ability to dig into almost any seabed, especially in weeds, coral, and rocks.
• Easy to retrieve back onto the ship.
• Difficult to stow sometimes due to having three flukes.

Knox Anchor

The Knox anchor was invented by John Knox in Scottland and has an exceptional holding power similar to the Rocna anchor.

As a matter of fact, this anchor is able to hold 40 times its anchor weight, which is a stunning feat.

• Digs well into many types of seabed.
• Sometimes difficult when penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

Ultra Anchor

Known as one of the most innovative Spade-designed anchors, the Ultra anchor is rapidly becoming one of the most popular anchor types and is often seen as a replacement for the Bruce anchor.

It’s a rather heavy anchor since it’s made out of stainless steel and has lead inside the tip of its fluke. While not cheap, the Ultra anchor is known to work virtually guaranteed.

• Arguably the strongest and most reliable holding power.
• Very heavy to carry and retrieve.
• Relatively expensive compared to other anchors.

Vulcan Anchor

Similar to the Rocna anchor, the Vulcan anchor is almost a carbon copy of the Rocna anchor minus the fact that it doesn’t have a roll-bar.

The main reason for the creation of the Vulcan anchor was to accommodate sailors who found it difficult to stow the Rocna anchor. This is a fantastic choice for any sailor.

• None that could be found.

Manork Anchor

One of the most recent sailboat anchor types designed over the years is the Manork anchors, which were designed in Slovenia by Marko Janjanin in 2017.

It has proven to be an extremely well-designed, well-functioning anchor that can accommodate sailors in many weather and seabed conditions. It’s been heavily tested in strong storms and loose seabeds only to pass with flying colors.

• Has a unique fluke design made for strong holding power.
• Roll bar moves weight away from the tip causing potentially less digging.

Other Anchor Types

More likely than not, you’ll want to opt for one of the more modern types of anchors for sailboats if you have the opportunity.

However, there are several other anchor types that are effective in different environments that may not be the most common, but are useful when needed.

Mushroom Anchor

The Mushroom anchor was invented by Robert Stevenson and is most commonly used in seabeds that are composed of silt or fine sand.

While it’s not likely that you’ll ever be in such an environment, a Mushroom anchor will ensure that you’re safe to anchor in case you ever are. Since it’s shaped like a mushroom and inverted, the head of the anchor effectively buries itself directly into the sand.

They rely heavily on a suction effect between the seabed and the anchor, therefore the seabed must be relatively fine.

Hydrobubble Anchor

Not unlike the CQR/Plough anchor, a Hydrobubble anchor has a similar design but with a slight twist. It has attached to it a buoyancy tank that allows the anchor to safely float down to the seabed without fluttering around and causing an issue when it lands.

This almost entirely ensures that the anchor is in a good position and securely attached to the seabed. All in all, it’s just like a CQR/Plouch anchor but just better at landing in a good position.

Sand Anchor

There aren’t many anchors out there like a proper Sand anchor, mainly since this type of anchor is attached directly to the shore of a beach.

These types of anchors are designed to give your sailboat a firm attachment to sand on land when necessary. Generally, a spike is either driven or screwed into sand for a temporary amount of time.

It’s important to note, however, that these types of anchors are strictly temporary and should be monitored constantly.

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Boat Anchor Types: A Complete Guide

Table of Contents

Last Updated on January 11, 2024 by Boatsetter Team

To live out your boating dreams, it is important to ensure your  safety  and ensure that you have the best anchor. Anchors are essential for any boating activity and crucial for any experienced or amateur boater. By mastering the fundamentals of safe anchoring, you will safeguard your boating experiences from any accidents or anxiety. This guide will help you choose your ultimate anchor and provide tips for choosing which boat anchor is right for you. After choosing the anchor that is your right fit, you will be able to have smooth sails ahead and enjoy a stress-free time with friends and family.

Knowing the Ropes

Knowing your whole anchor system will be essential in shopping for an anchor. The anchor system is comprised of the chain, rope, shackle, and deck cleats along with the anchor. Each of these items must deliver the quality, performance, and strength that you need to anchor your boat .

Your Anchor Line: The Anchor Rode

Using a short anchor chain and three-strand nylon line will greatly reduce loads of shocks on your boat and the anchor system. Nylon is very elastic and helps reduce shockwaves or damage to the boat. Avoid anchor rodes that use all chains because they will lack the shock-absorbing qualities of nylon rope when the winds increase. The chain protects the line from chafing on the seabed.

If regularly anchoring in 25-ft of water or less, use 6 ft of chain. In greater depths, use an additional 6 ft for every 25-ft of water depth.

Holding Power

You have to make sure that the  anchor  you choose will support the boat you are operating and will fit the conditions of the environment you will be boating in. Choosing the right anchor for the type of boat you operate and the type of wind conditions you will be encountering is essential for boating safely. You must be certain that your anchor will be able to hold your boat. Here are three different types of anchors and rules of thumb for the durability of an boat anchor.

• Lunch Hook:  This anchor should hold a boat in a 15- knot breeze.
• Working Anchor:  This anchor should hold up to 30-knots of wind.
• Storm Anchor:  This anchor is for winds up to 42-knots of wind.

It is important to remember that as a general rule, when the wind speed doubles, the holding requirement quadruples. Be mindful of holding power requirements for different wind speeds, and use this information as a rule of thumb!

Know Your Scope

The scope is the length of the anchor line in relation to the distance of your boat’s deck to the bottom of the sea. Understanding scope is critical in anchoring and boating safely. The scope’s ratio should at least be 5:1, length to distance. When the scope increases, the anchor’s horizontal pull will also increase, which can help dig the anchor deeper into the sea bottom. When the scope decreases, the anchor’s pull will become more vertical. This can cause your boat to disturb and dislodge your anchor, especially at the height of a wave or during high tide.

If the scope’s ratio is less than 3:1, you are at risk of giving away a significant amount of control. Remember to set your anchor at a 5:1 initially. Afterward, you may shorten the scope as needed.

Power Setting the Anchor

To ensure that your anchor is thoroughly buried into the sea bottom, it is best to “Power Set” it. When you start setting the anchor into place, begin to lower it slowly into the water. As the anchor begins to descend deeper into the bottom, slowly begin to increase your anchor load with your engine to make sure it is securely buried. Remember that if you back off at any speed, you might not give the anchor a chance to bury itself into the sea bottom and ensure anchoring. You can follow and mimic the force of the wind by using the engine’s thrust to set the anchor to a predetermined load. By matching your boat’s total maximum horsepower and hull type , you can determine to what extent your boat can “Power Set” your anchor.

Anchoring in Soft Mud Bottoms

If you are anchoring in a soft mud bottom, this will greatly reduce your holding power compared to harder soils or sands. If you encounter a problem setting your anchor in this environment, then try setting the anchor at a very short scope at first. This initial scope could be a 2:1 ratio. When the anchor begins to dig in and set, slowly increase the scope to a greater ratio. An example of this could be a 5:1 ratio. Then, try to power set the anchor.

Special “mud palms” can be installed on your anchor, and it is recommended that you permanently install these “mud palms” to set your anchor in any type of bottom.

Retrieving the Anchor

Start by slowly moving the boat into a position that directly hovers over the anchor, pulling in the line as you go. When you are directly above it, shorten the line on a cleat and slowly power backward to pull the anchor out of the bottom. Do not power forward since this will require way more energy and put heavy loads on the anchor and support system.

A Summary of Anchor Types: Choosing the Right  Style  for You!

Claw anchors.

The Claw Anchor is one of the most popular anchors among boaters in North America. This anchor is a dynamic anchor that performs well in many sea bottoms, including mud, sand, rock, and coral. It has more trouble digging into harder surfaces like clay and dense grass. It has a three-claw design and sets and resets easier than other anchors. On the other hand, it has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors.

The Wing and Plow Anchor

The Wing Anchor is a hinged anchor. The Plow Anchor also has a hinged design, but the greatest difference between the Plow and Wing is that the Wing is a one-piece design. The Plow Anchor is one of the most popular anchors among bluewater cruisers despite having low holding power. However, the hinged design makes it more responsive and durable to environmental elements.

Delta Anchor

This anchor is an excellent choice for anchors that are going to be used repeatedly during stormy conditions. The self-righting design allows it to set quickly and the ballasted tip ensures that it stays in place. The Delta anchor can be said to be the most popular anchors among boats today and is the standard for boat manufacturers . Regardless of whether you want a boat anchor for a sailboat or for a pontoon boat, be sure to choose this one.

The Fluke Anchor

The Fluke Anchor is also a popular choice among boaters. The Fluke Anchor is constructed of lightweight, high-strength aluminum. The Fluke Anchor performs well in mud and sand, perhaps better than any other style. On the other hand, if not in mud or sand, The Fluke Anchor is not the best performer.

The Plow Anchor with Roll Bar

There are several Plow Anchors with roll bars that are essentially variations on the plow style anchor. The Plow Anchors with roll bars are a lot sharper than traditional Plow styles. Since the roll bars create a distinct sharpness, they can penetrate the sea bottom much easier than other anchor styles. The roll bar also helps the anchor orient itself when setting. The only downside is that these anchors can be very expensive and difficult to store.

Grapnel and Small Anchors

The Grapnel Anchor is used for small boats such as Kayaks, Canoes, etc. It is a favorite among fishers and is compact and easy to store. Grapnel’s hook onto another object for holding power yields immense holding power but can create difficulty retrieving the anchor.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom Anchors are often used for mooring buoys permanently because of their extreme holding power that can often hold ten times its actual weight. Silt from the sea bottom builds up over these anchors and results in this extreme holding power. However, this anchor type is not useful in temporary anchoring situations and makes more sense for permanent mooring. The exception is smaller versions of the Mushroom that can be used for small boats and anchoring while fishing.

Anchor Materials

The most common anchor materials are mild steel, high-tensile steel, stainless steel, and aluminum. Most anchors are mild/high-tensile steel. High-tensile steel is about twice as strong as mild steel, but that is not to say that it has a higher holding power, just that it is stronger. These are not corrosion resistant and need to be galvanized to prevent rust. All anchors need to be galvanized and can be pre-galvanized to prevent erosion.

Once you identify your needs and what fits best for you and your boat, you will be able to safely anchor at any desired destination!

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Anchor Selection Guide: How to Choose the Best Boat Anchor Type

There are a number of boat anchors available, constructed of different materials, and often with confusing names. This article will discuss the most popular types of boat anchors,  how to choose the best anchor for your boat, the most common material types, and also give an overview of different naming conventions.

Quick Anchor Style Summary

Video: Choosing an Anchor Type

Our video below introduces many of the anchor types discussed here, although the article discusses a few more anchor types and provides some useful links.

Quick Summary Boat Anchor Recommendation

For most boaters , a Bruce or Delta is the best balance between price and performance. Both perform similarly and are similarly priced (Narrowly, the Bruce/Claw is our favorite of the three). If you've used a Danforth in the past , and you have had luck with it, choose a Danforth. If you've never used one before and if your setup allows it, choose a Bruce or Delta instead. If you're a blue-water cruiser , choose a CQR, or consider one of the new generation of anchors discussed below.

Boat Anchor Names: Trademarked Names and Generic Names

A special note is needed on the naming of anchors. Many anchors have a trademarked name, such as a   Bruce   or CQR, and a generic name like Claw or Plow. This is the same as how Xerox is a trademarked name for photocopier and how Aspirin is a trademarked name for pain killer. Trademarks effectively never expire whereas design patents expire after approximately 20-25 years. Therefore, manufacturers are free to clone an anchor design that has an expired patent but cannot use the trademarked name.

Bruce™ Claw Anchor

The   Bruce, or Claw, remains one of the most popular anchors among recreational boaters in North America. This is our anchor of choice as well.

The   Bruce   was developed in the 70s by the Bruce Anchor Group. Once their patent expired in the early 2000s, they stopped production of this anchor but many imitations have come along since.

The  Bruce  is an excellent all-purpose anchor as it performs well in most sea bottoms including mud, sand, rock, and coral. It has a harder time penetrating harder surfaces, such as clay, and bottoms with heavy grass. The three-claw design sets more easily than other anchors. It also resets easily if it is ever broken loose. On the downside, the Bruce has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors, meaning you’ll usually need a larger anchor than say the  Delta/Wing .

Pros:  Performs well in most conditions. Sets easily. Cons:  Awkward one piece design. Lower holding power per pound. Bottoms: Performs well in most bottoms; Struggles in hard bottoms such as clay, or heavy grass.

CQR™/Plow   &   Delta™/Wing Anchor

Both the CQR/Plow and the Delta/Wing are a plow style anchor. The most significant difference between these anchors is the fact that the CQR has a hinged design whereas the Delta is a one piece design.

The   CQR   is one of the oldest styles, dating back to the 30s and to this day, it remains one of the most popular anchors among blue water cruisers. Despite this, it has relatively low holding power and it consistently struggles in independent tests. It’s also rare to find a CQR under 25 lbs lending itself to the saying “There’s no such thing as a small CQR”. Despite these shortcomings, the hinged design makes it more responsive to wind and tide changes as compared to other anchors.

The   Delta   is arguably the most popular anchor on boats today, and is the standard anchor of choice used by most boat manufacturers. It has a good holding power per pound (about 50% more than the Bruce).

Both the   Delta   and the   CQR   perform well in most bottoms, struggling the most in rock.

Pros:   Performs well in most conditions. Fits most bow rollers. Cons:   Hinged design can make stowage awkward. "No such thing as a small CQR/Plow anchor". Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; struggles in rock.

Danforth™/Fluke Anchor

The  Danforth , or Fluke anchor, remains a very popular anchor choice. The Fortress is also a popular Fluke style anchor, different from the  Danforth  in that it comes apart and it constructed of light-weight, high-strength, aluminum.

The Fluke performs well in mud and sand, potentially the best of any anchor style. The downside is that outside of these bottoms, it is not a good performer. Therefore, it is a mud/sand only anchor, which fortunately is what most bottoms are comprised of.

Whether or not it is used as a primary anchor, a Fluke anchor makes an excellent choice as a secondary or stern anchor.

Pros:  Performs well in mud and sand. Stows easily on most bow rollers. Cons:   Does not perform well outside of mud/sand. Bottoms : Top performer in mud/sand. Performs poorly in other bottoms.

Spade Anchors

There are several anchors on the market today that feature a sharp fluke and a roll bar. These include the   Rocna and Manson Supreme.

Each of these anchors are essentially a variation on a plow style anchor. If you look at the plow portion of these anchors, you can see they are a lot sharper than traditional plows like the   Delta/Wing   and CQR. Analogous to a knife through butter, these anchors can penetrate the sea bottom a lot easier and deeper than the other anchor styles, hence the name for these anchors: "spade". The roll bar helps orient the anchor upright when setting.

These anchors have performed   extremely well in third party tests . The biggest downside to these anchors is that because they are still patented, they can be very expensive. The roll bar along with the elongated fluke can also make storing these anchors on bow rollers difficult.

Pros:   Very high holding power for many models. Cons:   Difficult to stow on a bow roller. Expense. Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; less effective in rock

Grapnel   and Other Small Craft Anchors

A  Grapnel anchor  is generally used for small boats such as Kayaks, Dinghies, Canoes, etc. It’s also popular with fishermen.They fold up very compactly and are easy to stow. A Grapnel’s holding power comes from hooking onto another object, such as a rock. When it does hook, it can create immense holding power, which can also make retrieving the anchor difficult.

Pros:  Great for use as a lunch hook. Folds to allow for compact storage. Cons:  Not appropriate for non-temporary anchorage. Bottoms: Rock or other situations when it can hook onto an object.

Mushroom Anchors

Large Mushroom anchors  are often used for permanent mooring buoys. As the silt from the sea-bottom builds up over these anchors, it can result in extreme holding power, up to 10 times the holding power of its actual weight. As a mooring buoy, the mushroom anchor is an excellent choice, however, it is not as useful in some temporary anchoring situations. An exception is that smaller versions of these anchors are good for use in small boats for anchoring while fishing or for a lunch stop over silty bottoms where the mushroom can penetrate.

Pros: If large, great for permanent mooring buoys. If small, good for use while fishing or for a lunch stop. Cons: If large, not appropriate for non-permanent moorings. If small, only good in soft bottoms. Bottoms: Silt, soft mud, unpacked sand.

Boat Anchor Material Types

Boat anchors come in a variety of types, the most popular being mild steel, high-tensile steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.

Most of the traditional steel anchors we are accustomed to seeing are likely either mild or high tensile steel. Mild steel and high-tensile steel are nearly indistinguishable from one another appearance wise. However, high tensile steel is 2-3 times stronger than mild steel. This isn't to say that a high-tensile steel boat anchor has 2-3 times the holding power of its mild steel counterpart, but it will nonetheless be stronger.

Both mild steel and high-tensile steel anchors are not corrosion resistant, and therefore need to be galvanized to prevent rust and other corrosion. All steel anchors (except stainless) should be galvanized. Galvanization has a tendency to wear down over time, but an anchor (as well as nearly any other steel product) can be re-galvanized.

Stainless steel is identical to galvanized steel in terms of holding power but differs significantly in appearance. The shiny gloss is essentially the only difference between stainless steel and galvanized steel. Stainless steel is also very corrosion resistant and will resist most rusting over time. You will often see manufacturers describing stainless steel as either 316 Stainless or 304 Stainless. 316 is a different chemical composition than 304 and is more corrosion resistant. It also more expensive.

There are some anchors constructed from high strength aluminum, such as the Fortress. These anchors are extremely lightweight while still offering high holding power. These anchors rely on bottom penetration for most of the holding power, and therefore, if they are not set, they provide little to no holding power.

Published May 08, 2018

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Welcome to Worry-free Anchoring

When looking for an anchor you want to make sure it digs in the first time, buries deep, has high holding power and holds when winds or currents shift.

For sailboats we have taken every bit of windage, shape and weight distribution into consideration. This all affects how the anchor launches, sets and re-sets.

We have a good range of sailboat anchors to suit all boating adventures, keeping your family safe and ensuring your anchoring experience is stress free.

The right sailboat anchor will depend on the type and size of your sailboat, where you plan to go sailing, and the weather conditions that you expect to encounter. If you are not sure which anchor is right for you, use our simple anchor calculator – link below.

 Sailboat Anchor Range

Supreme Anchor (SHHP)

12 Sizes: 5 - 150lbs

Boss Anchor

11 Sizes: 5 - 150lbs

Racer Anchor

10 Sizes: 2.2 - 35lbs

Plough Anchor (HHP)

17 Sizes: 10 - 300lbs

Ray Anchor (HHP)

Sand Anchor

What size anchor do i need, the manson anchor difference, why buy a manson anchor.

Global Leader

We are the experts in anchoring. We’ve been doing this since 1972, that’s almost 50 years’ experience making anchors. We are the desired anchor brand, chosen by serious boaters all over the world; from the rugged coastlines of Western Australia, to Florida and the Mediterranean. You are in safe hands. 

Largest Range in the World

We understand the unique challenges of anchoring and we know all boats are not equal, so we design and build anchors to suit every situation – from small craft through to superyachts. Don’t settle for a standard anchor. Get the anchor that will be perfect for  your boating needs and keep you and your family safe.

Made in New Zealand

Our anchors are proudly crafted in New Zealand by Lloyd’s Register approved welders using certified Lloyd’s Register approved materials in a specialist facility. They are not  made cheaply in developing countries who have little respect for quality, the environment or what it means to anchor safely. This means you are buying a quality anchor that you can rely on.

We are trusted to make anchors for some of the best shipyards in the world who build exquisite superyachts and sophisticated defense vessels. This means that you’re buying the same brand selected by superyacht owners and their captains. Simply put, you are choosing an anchor from the world’s leading anchor brand. Anchor with the world’s best.

What our customers say about us

FLORIDA, USA

Thanks to my Manson Supreme I survived Hurricane Sally in Florida. As winds reached 110mph there was an incredible amount of force at work, but my 80lb Manson Supreme held my Roberts DS440 steel sailboat, while I watched boats around me sink. I was very impressed and grateful. When the winds subsided, we found we had bent shackles and bent rollers, but the anchor was in perfect condition.

Brian Holloway

New zealand.

We were just starting on our adventure, which turned into the most exciting six month trip I have ever undertaken. We travelled over 4000 nautical miles, completely circumnavigating New Zealand in the wake of Captain Cook. What was interesting in that in the whole of the six months we only spent 15 nights at sea. My aim was to see New Zealand, and we rock hopped visiting everywhere possible, and consequently anchoring most nights. I have a 35lb Manson Supreme holding a 35 foot catamaran, weighing 5 tons. We make a reasonable amount of windage. I felt that a 35lb looked a bit small, but in six months, on very varied types of bottoms there was not one night when we dragged. A marvellous anchor, that I would recommend to anyone.

Aaron Dixon

I have toured the Manson factory on many occasions and have witnesses first-hand the quality of workmanship in full swing. The attention to detail they take in the selection of the metals, fabrication processes, welding and casting is amazing. Any vessel I own will always be fitted with a Manson Anchor.

West Marine

The Boss takes the performance of the Supreme and makes it conform to any bow-roller. The Boss works well on power and fishing boats that don’t work with the bow.

The winglets work as a bow-roller to ensure a reliable and quick setting anchor much like the Supreme.

This is an incredibly fast setting, high holding power anchor.

Colin Goldsworthy

We were caught out at Wangaparpara in what I would call a cyclone. It caught us off guard. We had a lee shore, a short scope, in poor holding with only 2 meters under the keel. We had no time to put down a second anchor.

During the next two days we experienced extreme gusts coming off the hills with swell entering the Harbour. That evening there was 95 knots gusts recorded at Channel Island. Our boat is 48 foot, and has plenty of windage. She sails on her anchor. We would sail up, go broadside and then get laid over with the gusts and swell beam on. Your anchor did not budge. The first night I sat and anchor watched, but the second night I was more confident and I slept.

That night many boats dragged their moorings and ended up on the beach. Your Supreme Anchor is great insurance.

Big Angry Fish

The holding power of the Manson Boss will help you stay on that perfect fishing spot regardless of the conditions.

The Manson Anchor will dig in first time so you can get lines over the side straight away.

The sliding shaft is a great feature that makes it so much easier to retrieve the anchor from foul ground.

It is so important for every fisherman to have a good anchor onboard, we recommended the Manson Boss to everyone!

Brian Bearden

New providence, bahamas.

The Manson Supreme is reliable. Sets quickly, resets quickly, usually no more than the anchors length. Happy in mud, sand, grass. Best anchor we have ever had. Rode out hurricane Joaquin (25 miles west of the eye) anchor didn’t budge in sustained winds of 85 knots. We used this anchor as our main and storm anchor.

Tom McCallum

Auckland, new zealand.

My 15lb Manson Supreme provided a heroic task in holding my 6 ton yacht all night in hurricane conditions in a bay with bad press on its seabed. Needless to say my faith in these anchors is profound and their design and tenacity legendary. I would use no other.

NZ Trade and Enterprise

Manson Anchors took a basic component of every boat, and considerably redesigned it to be not only aesthetically pleasing but a real feature on one of the best yachts in the world. This is a real skill and shows again New Zealanders’ ability to create a design that not only solves a problem but does so very eloquently indeed

Graham McKenzie

Wellington, new zealand.

In the 6 & 1/2 years we have travelled more than 45,000 miles, visited 26 countries, and have anchored at least 1000 times. We have yet to use any other anchor than our Manson Plough. It has been totally reliable in thin coral sands, in mud and in the treacherous grasses of the Mediterranean. Most of our cruising friends changed their anchoring tackle after disastrous anchoring experiences in the Med. Many were using locally made anchors. We never needed to consider a new option. The Manson also coped well in areas with strong tidal flow, such as the amazon with it’s 7 knot current. We have had the chain re-galvanized twice in the course of our travels, but the anchor is only just requiring attention. Thanks to you folks at Manson for an anchor that has truly passed the test of time… and distance.

David Forester

Mississippi, usa.

I would like to tell you that 25LB Manson Supreme held my 23’ Pro Line Walk around like it was nothing. Where I anchored is a lot of sand, the anchor caught right away and the wind and waves that buffeted the boat around did not budge it. The fluke anchor I have would always slip, and I would have to reset the anchorage. I can safely say this is the best anchor I have ever had. I am so impressed I am looking into a smaller one for my stern (second) anchor.

The 5 Best Sailboat Anchors

A good anchor for a sailboat will help keep a vessel stationary and stable in the water in any weather conditions or marine environment.

There are a number of top anchors for sailing boats that can work on sailboats of both small and large sizes of under 20ft to over 100ft.

The best sailboat anchors are:

• Best Overall : Mantus Marine M1 Mantus Anchor
• Best For Holding Boat : Lewmar Claw Anchor
• Best For Price : Seachoice Utility Anchor
• Best For Small Sailboats : Fortress FX-11 Anchor
• Best For Large Sailboats : Rocna Galvanized Anchor

These anchors will ensure the sailboat is anchoring properly in any sailing conditions.

Sailboat owners should choose an anchor based on the size and type of their sailboat as well as the type of marine environment their vessel will be located in.

For example, anchoring a sailboat on a sandy surface is different than anchoring a sailboat on a rocky surface and it will require different anchors.

1. M1 Mantus Galvanized Anchor

The best overall sailboat anchor is the M1 Mantus anchor manufactured by the brand Mantus Marine in Texas, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best overall anchor because it can dig deep into the seafloor and ensure the sailing vessel will not float away.

The M1 Mantus anchor is constructed of hot-dipped galvanized steel with the shank and shank boot welded from top to bottom.

It is a plow anchor shaped with a sharp triangle-shaped nose, a straight shank and a "U" shaped roll bar bolted to a fluke.

This anchor comes in many different sizes from 8lbs to 175lbs. It comes with 4 American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) certified bolts.

The M1 Mantus anchor is used on seafloor surfaces including sandy, gravel, grassy and muddy sea floors. It is not used on rocky sea floors.

The M1 Mantus can be used in different types of locations including rivers, sea and lakes.

Sailboat sizes of 20ft to 65ft can use the M1 Mantus anchor.

The M1 Mantus anchor is priced between $180 for the smallest 8lb anchor to approximately $3,000 for the largest 175lb anchor at most retailers.

The M1 Mantus anchor works to hold a vessel in position in winds of up to 40 knots, highlighting its great holding power abilities.

The benefits of the M1 Mantus anchor are:

• It comes with a great lifetime warranty : The Mantus Marine manufacturer offers a lifetime warranty on this anchor for added peace of mind
• It can be disassembled easily for storage : Simple disassembling bolts make it easy for storing this anchor when it is not in use
• Multiple size options : With anchor size options from 8lbs to 175lbs, sailboat owners of different vessel sizes, from small sailboats of 20ft to large sailboats of 65ft can use this anchor
• It works in multiple marine conditions : This anchor works in multiple marine conditions from calm ocean currents to extremely windy and storm conditions with up to 40 knots of wind speed
• High-performance sharp head nose enables easy penetration of the sea floor : The sharp edge nose of this anchor means it penetrates the ocean floor fast and with ease
• It is hot dipped galvanized for corrosion prevention : This anchor is hot dipped galvanized giving it extra protection against corrosion and wear from corrosive seawater
• It comes with 4 high-quality oversized A.S.T.M. certified bolts : This anchor comes with 4 oversized bolts with a large margin of safety that will help prevent damage

One disadvantage of the M1 Mantus anchor is it is more expensive than other anchors on the market.

M1 Mantas Anchor On Amazon →

M1 Mantas Anchor On eBay →

2. Lewmar Claw Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for its holding power is the Lewmar Claw anchor manufactured by the brand Lewmar in Hampshire, United Kingdom and sold worldwide.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is constructed of high-grade galvanized steel cast in a single piece. This anchor was inspired and designed based on anchors used to secure oil rigs in the North Sea.

The Lewmar Claw anchor comes in sizes from 2.2lbs to 176lbs. It is used on seabed surfaces including sandy, muddy, gravel and grassy ocean floors. It is not used on rocky surfaces.

The Lewmar Claw anchor can be used in different types of marine locations including ocean, lake and river floors.

Sailboat sizes of 12ft to 65ft can use the Lewmar Claw anchor.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is priced between approximately $30 for the smallest 2.2lb anchor to approximately $1,300 for the largest 176lb anchor at most retailers.

The Lewmar Claw anchor can hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 50 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Lewmar Claw anchor are:

• It's fast setting : Depending on the sea depth, this anchor can set and begin anchoring a vessel in under 5 minutes
• It has great holding power : This anchor can help with anchoring boats in position in extremely harsh weather conditions with winds up to 50 knots
• Easy bow roller storable : This anchor can fit and store nicely in most bow roller shapes and styles without any issues
• It's a budget-friendly anchor : The Lewmar Claw anchor is one of the cheapest on the market and it should be within most sailboat owner's budget with the most expensive anchor sold at a price of approximately $1,300
• It's built with strong & high-quality material : The Lewmar Claw is built with high-quality and heat-treated steel with a galvanized finish

One disadvantage of the Lewmar Claw anchor is it does not come with a lifetime warranty.

Lewmar Claw Anchor On Amazon →

Lewmar Claw Anchor On Walmart →

3. Seachoice Utility Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for the price is the Seachoice Utility anchor manufactured by the brand Seachoice in Florida, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best for the price because it offers the most options for the cheapest price on the market.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is constructed of hot-dipped galvanized steel or PVC-coated steel. It comes in 5 different color options including red, black, white, light blue and grey.

This anchor comes in different sizes from 4.5lbs to 8.5lbs.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is priced at approximately $25 for the smallest 4.5lb anchor to approximately $70 for the larger 8.5lb anchor at most retailers.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is used on different seabed surfaces including gravel, sand, grassy and muddy sea floors. It is not used on rocky seafloors.

The Seachoice anchor can be used in different types of marine locations including the sea, rivers and lakes.

Sailboat sizes of 10ft to 30ft can use the Seachoice Utility anchor.

The Seachoice Utility anchor can hold a sailboat in position and keep it anchored in wind speeds up to 30 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Seachoice Utility anchor are:

• It comes with a 1-year warranty : The Seachoice Utility anchor comes with a 1-year manufacturers warranty for added peace of mind
• It comes in multiple color options : Sailboat owners can choose from 5 different anchor colors
• It's easy to retrieve from the seawater : This anchor comes with a great slip-ring design that makes it easy to retrieve it from the water after use
• Sharp anchor fluke design makes penetration easy : The sharp fluke design helps the anchor to easily penetrate the seafloor surface
• It is cheap : The Seachoice Utility anchor is the cheapest anchor on the market with the largest anchor priced at approximately $70

Two disadvantages of the Seachoice Utility anchor are the anchor can only be used on smaller sailboats up to 30ft in length and it can not be used on larger sailboats over 30ft and the anchor can not be used on rocky sea floors.

Seachoice Utility Anchor On Amazon →

Seachoice Utility Anchor On Walmart →

4. Fortress FX-11 Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for small sailboats is the Fortress FX-11 anchor manufactured by the brand Fortress Marine Anchors in Florida, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best for small boats because its lightweight aluminum material is capable of holding a sailboat up to 32ft without the anchor being extra heavy.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is constructed of aluminum alloy material and it comes in a size of 7lbs.

It comes with a pivot adjustment which allows an adjustment of the anchor angle between 32° to 45°.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is used on seafloor surfaces including sand, gravel, mud and grassy surfaces. It is not used on rocky seafloor surfaces.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor can be used in different marine locations including lakes, rivers and the sea.

Sailboat sizes of between 28ft to 32ft can use the FX-11 anchor.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is priced at approximately $200 at most retailers.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor works to hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 30 knots without the vessel floating away.

The benefits of the Fortress FX-11 anchor are:

• It's rustproof : The light but strong aluminum material is rustproof meaning the anchor will not suffer from rusting caused by the corrosive seawater
• It comes with a lifetime parts warranty : The Fortress FX-11 anchor comes with a lifetime parts replacement warranty against damage that might occur to any parts of the anchor
• It is easy to store after use : It can be easily disassembled which means it is easy to store onboard the sailboat after using it#
• Penetrates the seafloor and sets deeper : The sharp edge d anchor allows it to easily penetrate seafloors and anchor a boat

One disadvantage of the Fortress FX-11 anchor is it can only be used on smaller sailboats between 28ft to 32ft and it cannot be used on larger sailing vessels over 32ft.

Fortress FX-11 On Amazon →

Fortress FX-11 On Walmart →

5. Rocna Galvanized Anchor

The best anchor for larger sailboats is the Rocna galvanized steel anchor manufactured by the brand Rocna in British Columbia, Canada and sold worldwide.

The Rocna anchor is constructed of galvanized steel with solid welding from top to bottom.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor was designed by New Zealand sailor Peter Smith.

The Rocna anchor design comes with a roll-bar to ensure the anchor can penetrate the surface at the best angle and one-third of the anchor's weight is on the fluke tip which also helps with the penetration of the seafloor surface.

The Rocna anchor comes in 14 different sizes from 9lbs to 606lbs.

This fluke anchor is the best for larger sailboats because it offers anchors up to 606lbs which will help with anchoring most larger sailing vessels.

The Rocna anchor can be used on all sea surfaces from gravel, mud, sand, clay, kelp and rocks. It can also be used in marine locations including lakes, rivers and the sea.

Sailboat sizes of 12ft to over 300ft can use the Rocna galvanized steel anchor.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor is priced between approximately $220 for the smallest 9lbs anchor to approximately $12,000 for the largest 606lb anchor.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor can hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 40 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Rocna galvanized anchor are:

• It comes with a great lifetime warranty : The Rocna galvanized anchor comes with a lifetime warranty against breakage, manufacturing defects and bending for added peace of mind
• It can be used on all sea surfaces : The Rocna galvanized steel anchor can be used on all sea surfaces including gravel, sand, mud and rocky sea floors and it is not limited or restricted to just a few types of surfaces
• It sets fast : The sharp edge fluke helps penetrate the sea surface and the anchor sets fast as a result of this design

One disadvantage of the Rocna anchor is it is not the cheapest anchor with the cheapest price at approximately $220.

Rocna Anchor On Amazon →

Top Sailboat Anchors Comparison Table

What to consider when buying a sailboat anchor.

The factors to consider before buying a sailboat anchor are:

• Type of material used : The type of material used to create the anchor is an important consideration when buying a sailboat anchor. Most modern anchors are constructed using aluminum steel or galvanized steel
• Durability : How long the anchor can last is a factor to consider when buying a sailboat anchor. Modern anchors come with lifetime warranties and they should last for well over 10 years
• Size Of The Boat : Identifying the proper anchor size for a boat is not a perfect science but the size of your boat is an extremely important factor to consider when choosing a top sailboat anchor. Typically, the larger the boat size, the bigger the anchor that is required
• Price : Price will also play a big role in the sailboat anchor you buy. Anchors come in many different prices for many different budgets

Frequently Asked Questions About The Best Sailboat Anchors

Below are the most common and frequently asked questions about the top sailing vessel anchors.

What Are The Best Sailboat Anchor Brands?

The best sailboat anchor brands are:

• Five Oceans Danforth Style
• Mantus Marine

Are Top Sailing Boat Anchors Expensive?

No, top sailboat anchors are not expensive with some of the best sailboat anchors priced as little as $25 in some instances.

What Are The Different Types Of Sailboat Anchors Available For Sailboat Owners?

The types of sailboat anchors available are:

• Fluke anchors
• Plow anchors
• Claw anchors
• Mushroom anchors
• Grapnel anchors

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How to Pick a Boat Anchor: The Guide to Types, Sizes & Weights

October 20, 2023

Lakes can get choppy, and river currents can drag you along when you'd rather stay put. Having the right anchor on your boat is crucial, especially if you're busy staging for a wakeboard or ski ride .

But what type and size of anchor is best for your setup?

Types of Boat Anchors

Let's look at the most popular types of boat anchors, and look at some charts to figure out what size and weight anchor is right for you.

Fluke Anchors

Also known as a Danforth anchor, the fluke anchor is favored by lake and river boat owners for its lightweight design and excellent holding power in soft bottoms.

Fluke anchors have a rotating bar that connects the anchor to the line. Their forward-heavy profile allows the flukes to drive straight down into sand or mud. As line is laid out, the bar swivels into a horizontal position, providing good scope.

• Boat Size: 30 feet or less
• Best For: Lakes, rivers, mud and sand
• Bad For: Rocks, debris, coral, strong currents

Plow Anchors

Also called a delta anchor, the plow anchor is one of the most popular anchors on the boat market. It's simple and effective, capable of providing reliable mooring in all water conditions and most beds.

Plow anchors dig into the surface below and they provide high holding power. They set quickly, which makes them an excellent choice when strong currents and winds could otherwise quickly move your boat.

But plow anchors' large, flat fins can get stuck in debris and large rocks, so it's best to stick to softer bottoms.

• Boat Size: 70 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass bottoms, strong winds
• Bad For: Rocky bottoms

Claw Anchors

Also known as a Bruce anchor, the claw anchor is similar to a plow anchor: It sets quickly and digs into soft bottoms, providing good holding power against currents and wind -- though not as well as a plow.

Because claw anchors use smaller pins, they're better suited in gravel and rock, affording a lower risk of catching and getting stuck where a plow anchor might get hung up.

Digger Anchors

The digger anchor excels at providing high holding power in gravel and rocky bottoms, even with strong currents and high wind. It uses a rod that partially rotates, while limiting the angle of the anchor line's scope.

As current and wind pull on the boat, the rod's limited angle pulls on the anchor's claws, pushing them further into the bottom. The digger's thin, long claws work great in virtually all bottom, including gravel and small rocks -- just avoid large debris, as the limited angle of the anchor rod prevents it from being pulled back out of a snag effectively.

• Boat Size: 40 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass, gravel, strong winds
• Bad For: Bottoms with large debris

Navy Anchors

The classic, heavy, big navy anchor excels at providing high holding power in all waters and conditions. Its size and shape make it suitable for rocky bottoms and debris fields, as it has little risk of getting snagged.

The only problem with a navy anchor is that its benefits can become problematic for smaller vessels: Because navy anchors are large and heavy, they can be difficult to stow, and they add plenty of weight to the hull.

• Boat Size: 20+ feet
• Best For: All bottoms, currents, and weather
• Bad For: Small, light boats

Mushroom Anchors

The mushroom anchor is made for small vessels in relatively calm waters with soft bottoms. It relies on suction and sinking into sand, dirt, and mud to provide holding power. These anchors are typically found on light, electric motor-powered boats, kayaks, and dingy boats.

• Boat Size: 12 feet or less
• Best For: Soft bottoms free of rock
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents, rocky bottoms

River Anchors

Like the mushroom anchor, the river anchor is also intended for small vessels in lakes and rivers -- but with one exception: The river anchor works well in rocky bottoms and beds filled with debris. The wide, flat flukes work best when they can grab hold of objects on the floor. River anchors work well enough in soft bottoms, albeit with less holding power than a mushroom.

• Best For: rocky bottoms and debris fields
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents

Choosing The right Size Anchor

When selecting a boat anchor, it's important to consider the following factors:

The size and weight of your boat will determine the size and weight of the anchor you need. As a general rule, the heavier the boat, the larger and heavier the anchor should be.

Water and Weather

The type of weather and currents you encounter will influence your anchor choice. Different anchors perform better in different conditions, so it's important to choose one that suits your boating environment.

Conditions of Water Bed

The floor your anchor rests upon can vary wildly. Some lakes and rivers have rocky bottoms filled with debris, while others have soft silt or sand. Picking the wrong setup could mean you wind up drifting, or worse, cutting line because your anchor got stuck at the bottom.

Anchor Weight vs. Boat Size Chart

The chart above is a general guideline for selecting the appropriate anchor weight for your boat. Conditions on the water, and the weight of your boat -- regardless of its size -- could mean you need a heavier anchor.

Anchor Chain vs. Rope

When it comes to anchoring, you'd think chain is far superior to rope. But chain really only provides two advantages: It adds holding power, helping to keep your boat moored in one spot in rough water and strong currents, and it resists chafing -- it won't suffer damage from being dragged along debris and rocks.

Chain is heavy, though, so it adds weight to your craft when not being used. This isn't a concern on large, sea-going vessels. But you probably don't want that added weight when you're cruising around on the river or lake, especially when towing a wakeboard, tube, or skis.

Chain also rusts, even with regular maintenance, and it's expensive. Nowadays, synthetic anchor rope is tough and abrasion-resistant, and it withstands water and sunlight incredibly well. It's also lightweight relative to its strength, and it takes up much less space than chain.

The most effective setup combines a bit of chain near the anchor, with rope making up the rest of the line. Just a few feet of chain is needed to ensure your anchor is properly seated. This bit of chain also improves the scope of your line. "Scope?" You, say? Read on.

It's All About Scope

Rope alone will provide as much holding power as chain, so long as your scope is correct. Scope measures the ratio of the length of deployed rope (or chain) to the height from the ocean, lake, or riverbed to the anchor point on the boat.

The minimum effective scope you need to properly moor your vessel with any anchor and line is 5:1. That means if the depth from your boat's topside to the underwater floor is 5 feet, you need 25 feet of rope laid out below. This affords about 75% of the maximum holding power of your anchor and line.

A scope of 10:1, laid perfectly flat on the bed below, provides 100% holding power. Using the same 5 foot depth, you'd need 50 feet of anchor rope or chain laid out for max holding power.

Need a new anchor setup? Check out our boat anchors and anchor lines !

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Anchoring & Mooring

With so much investment literally riding on your anchor, your boat's anchoring system is no place to cut corners. your choice of anchor depends on the size and type of your boat, and the weather and anchoring conditions you generally encounter..

Boats with heavy displacements or superstructures that present a great deal of wind resistance need heavier gear. The same is true of cruising yachts that brave a wide variety of conditions and may sometimes have to anchor in open waters.

Although not required by Federal Law, it is recommended you carry one anchor of sufficient size and strength to hold your boat for an extended period, like overnight--or in an emergency situation, such as if you run out of gas. When you are thinking or buying an anchor - BIGGER IS BETTER.

Also, there is safety in numbers. No anchor will work for you in every situation, so if you have space carry two anchors--preferably of different types.Many people choose to carry a small anchor, or "lunch hook", and a larger working or storm anchor. The lunch hook is for use in calm weather and when the crew is monitoring the anchor. Working and storm anchors are useful at times when the crew is asleep or ashore, and during heavy weather, when winds are 30 miles an hour and over.

The general name for all of the equipment you need to anchor your boat is "ground tackle". This includes an anchor, chain, line and connecting elements. The anchor line, including chain, is called the rode.

Playing Hooky

Just as boats come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, so do anchors. Choosing an anchor is easy, choosing the right one for your boat can be very difficult. Your first task in choosing an anchor is to have an understanding of three things:

• Your Boat - Your boats' size, weight and design characteristics affect what kind of anchor you will need to use. For instance, a 30 foot 10,000 pound houseboat needs a larger anchor than a 30 foot 6000 pound speedboat.
• Where You're Going - Where you plan to anchor often dictates what type of anchor you should use. Is the bottom rock, or is it soft mud? If you are not familiar with the area, ask around or look at a local chart.
• Local Conditions - Anchoring in a calm protected cove can be quite different than anchoring offshore or on a large open bay. And don't forget the weather--high winds, tides and waves can all make anchoring difficult, if not impossible.

Anchors are rated by "holding power"--which is the ability of an anchor to hold a given weight. Keep in mind that a 10,000 pound boat may only require an anchor with a holding power of a few hundred pounds on a calm day, but may need 1,000 pounds of holding power or more on a stormy day.

Anchor Types

There are several types of anchors and you should choose a style based on the bottom characteristics in the areas you will anchor most often. Then, choose a size based on the size and weight of your boat.

Lightweight or "Danforth" Anchors

Lightweight type anchor with two long pivoting "flukes"; designed to reduce clogging with mud and grass; range from 2.5 pounds to nearly 200 pounds, and are generally made of cast galvanized metal, though some models are machined from a light-weight aluminum composite. When dropped, flukes dig the anchor into the bottom and the anchor buries itself and part of the anchor line.

Commonly used on small recreational boats, as they are relatively light weight for the amount of holding power they provide, especially in comparison to other anchors. Best in hard sand or mud, where flukes can easily dig into the bottom.

Not recommended for very soft or loose mud, which can ball up around the flukes; or on rocky bottoms where the flukes cannot penetrate. Also not recommended for grassy bottoms, which the flukes tend to slip off.

Kedge or Navy Anchors

A more traditional style anchor with arks, flukes and stock. Good in heavy grass, weeds, rocky bottoms or hard sand where one arm can penetrate a crevice. Not good in mud or loose sand, where flukes can't dig in.

Functions differently than previous anchors as it is not a burying anchor; one arm digs into bottom and one lies exposed. Generally only used by very large ships, as it relies on weight for most of the holding power; not really suitable for recreational use other than for a lunch hook.

Grapnels Anchors

Very inexpensive, but not much holding power. Some models are made of bent re-bar, others are made of galvanized metal and have folding flukes. Good for recovering items on the bottom, or for wreck reef anchoring. Commonly used on very small boats such as canoes or jon boats.

Plow or "CQR/DELTA" Anchors

The plow styles' good holding power over a wide variety of bottom types makes it a top choice of cruising boaters. Has either a fixed (Delta style) or a pivoting (CQR) shank.

When dropped in the water, a plow lands on its side, then when pulled, buries itself. Its shape allows it to reset fairly easily should the wind or tide shift the boat position.

Great in sand and on rocky bottoms, weeds and grass. Does not do well in soft bottoms. Generally made of galvanized metal, though they are available in stainless steel.

Claw or "BRUCE" Anchors

Unique shape of the claw allows a 360 degree turn without breaking out. Has similar performance to plow anchors,at a lower weight.

Sets just like a plow, but curved flukes make it easier for a claw to right itself no matter how it lands on the bottom, or how much the boat gets swung around.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom anchors get their name from, as you might imagine, their rounded, mushroom shape. Mushroom anchors are used extensively for moorings, and can weigh several thousand pounds for this use.

The shape works best in soft bottoms, where it can create a suction that can be difficult to break. Decent for very small boats to use as a lunch hook, but not practical for larger boats. Both Buoys and Beacons may have lights attached, and may have a sound making device such as a gong, bell or horn. Both Buoys and Beacons may be called "marks".

Line and Gear

Depending upon the size and type of your boat, and where you anchor--your choices for an anchor line are either an all-rope anchor rode, a combination of rope and chain, or all chain.

Nylon Line in Three-Strand Twist

Three-strand line can absorb shock and the constant tugging associated with anchoring much better than braided line or chain alone. Chain may also be used, especially in anchorages that are primarily rock or coral, which may cut a nylon line. A length of chain should be used between the anchor and a longer length of line. The chain will add weight to set your anchor without making it too heavy to lift manually, while serving to exert a horizontal pull on the anchor to set it.

Nylon Three-Strand line is the leading choice for use as an anchoring line. Lines generally come in a "soft" or "medium" lie. Soft lines are generally softer to the touch, and loosely woven. These aren't as good as medium or hard lines for anchoring, as they are more prone to unraveling and chafing. Tightly wrapped lines are the best choice for anchoring.

Lines that have been treated with a wax-like coating are available. These lines help the line resist water/salt absorption. To help keep your lines in good shape, clean them from time to time by soaking them in soapy water. Never use bleach, as it can break down the line.

Chain may be used instead of nylon line for anchoring. Chain has several benefits, including added weight, chafe and wear resistance, and high strength. It also lowers the angle of pull on the anchor, which helps it to set more firn\mly into the bottom.

Chain is generally found made of galvanized steel, though you can find stainless steel and vinyl coated chain, which is designed to be non-marring to your deck.

Chain comes in three general varieties: "Proof Coil" is the most common, and is adequate for most marine uses. "BBB" ("Triple B" or "3B") chain has thicker, shorter links than proof chain. BBB is slightly stronger than proof chain, and is generally used for windlasses. Finally, "Hi-Test" chain is made of hardened steel, and is stronger and lighter than proof coil. Hi-test chain is favored by those wishing to avoid carrying too much weight.

Combination anchor-rodes consist of both chain and nylon line. You may buy a combination rode, or you may make one yourself. Generally, it is recommended to have either one foot of chain for each foot of boat length, or to have one pound of chain for each pound of anchor length. Which ever method you choose, having more chain than necessary is never a bad idea.

As the saying goes, a chain is only as strong as its' weakest link...Make sure that your anchor and line are attached to each other with adequate gear. Some lines come with plastic thimbles or eyes--but metal, either marine-grade stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized steel, is best. Swivels and shackles should be inspected regularly for wear, and to ensure that the connections are tight and functional.

Scope: Length of the anchor line/ height of the deck cleat to the sea bed.

Before leaving the dock, you will need to determine how much anchor line, or "rode", you will need. It is recommended that you use a scope of 7:1, meaning that for every foot of water depth, you should use 7 feet of rode.

For example, to anchor in 10 feet of water, you would pay out 70 feet of line. Measure the scope as the ratio of the length of the anchor rode to the height of the bow above the bottom. If you're using a lightweight anchor on a small boat in good weather conditions, a shorter scope of 5:1 is sufficient and safe. A prudent boater always has extra line and chain on hand, just in case.

Minimum Working Rode Sizes

Suggested holding sizes assume fair holding ground, scope of at least 5:1 to 10:1, and moderate shelter from high seas.

Boats that operate generally in shallow waters, as on the East Coast of the United States, may get by with shorter rode lengths. As the wind picks up, deploying additional line will help maintain position, as will tossing out an extra anchor.

Setting Anchor

Anchoring can be accomplished quickly and easily by following a few simple steps.

• Check your chart for bottom characteristics and to determine that you are anchoring in a safe and allowable place. If there are rocks, shoals, reefs or other boats to consider, give them all as wide a berth as possible. Remember that other boats will often have different requirements for anchor rode length--larger or taller boats frequently need a great deal of rode. Also, keep in mind a possible swing of 360 degrees about the anchor with wind shifts or current changes.
• If your crew is not already wearing PFDs, have them put one on before going forward to set or retrieve an anchor or mooring.
• Secure the bitter end of the anchor line to a bow cleat. Make sure the line is ready to run free once tossed overboard.
• Head into the wind or current. Reduce speed and reverse the engine. When the boat starts to make a slight sternway through the water, lower - do not throw - the anchor.
• After you've let about a third of your line out, tug the anchor line to see how firmly it's set, and then continue to release the rode.
• Once you let out an appropriate amount of scope, make sure the line is properly tied off on the bow cleat.
• Even if anchoring only in designated anchoring areas, it is always prudent to have the appropriate signal such as an all-around white light on to notify other boats that you are anchored at night. During the day you must display a ball shape which is sized according to the size of your boat.

Staying Put

It's a good idea to take two immediate bearings. Select two items, one off each beam, that form a natural range and watch for any changes in their relationship. You can check these later to determine if you're boat is swinging as expected or if you're dragging anchor.

Picking Up a Mooring

One of the best ways to avoid the hassles of anchoring is to chose a cove or harbor with moorings available for your use. Mooring balls are identified by their white spherical or can shape, and having a blue horizontal band. It may have a number designation, a VHF contact # or name on it. You will typically have to pay a small fee to the harbor master to use a public mooring, but you can count on it being far cheaper than paying for dockage for the night.

Public moorings are professionally maintained and will use a large anchor or helix screw fixture to maintain position. The harbor master will let you know if the weight or length of your boat is too big for that particular mooring. Although moorings are typically more secure than anchors, moorings can and do periodically give way. For this reason, and for the obvious courtesy reasons, you should never pick up and use a mooring that does not belong to you.

Common Anchoring Mistakes

• Letting the anchor go with out securing the line to the boat.
• Letting the anchor go with your foot wrapped in the anchor line.
• Poor communication between the captain and person on the foredeck.
• Approach a mooring from downwind. This will give you better maneuverability as you go to secure your boat to the ball.
• Go slow, so as not to disturb those already moored.
• After putting on PFDs, send a crew member to the bow with a boat hook to grab the eye or the base of the mooring ball.
• Once the mooring ball is at the bow--slow, stop or gently reverse engines to halt forward motion. Use your crew to relay distance information if it is difficult for the skipper to see where the mooring ball is in relation to the boat.
• Loop the mooring line over one or both of your bow cleats. Pay attention to the possibility of chafing. You may want to use your own line to attach to the mooring ball if the one provided is dirty.
• Some moorings may have an antenna like device called 'whip.' This is simply an extension of the ball so you don't have to reach as far to haul in the mooring line.
• Once secure, let the boat drift back and be sure that you are clear of those who have moored or anchored around you. There is no need to 'back down' on a mooring ball.
• Leaving a mooring is easy--just motor or pull up gently to the ball and release the mooring line from your boat. You can then either drift back or maneuver forward to clear yourself of the ball and the associated ground tackle.

Finally, never ever anchor a small boat by the stern! Your engine, and the bulk of the boat's weight rest here. Stern anchoring is likely to result in swamping and flooding.

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Selecting the Right Anchor Size

Holding power increases with weight, but how much is hard to calculate..

Over the years Practical Sailor has conducted dozens of anchor tests, and like many publications, we’ve repeated the common guidance that cruising sailors should buy an anchor that is at least one size larger than what the maker recommends for your size vessel.

During the last two decades, however, the tremendous holding power of some newer generation anchors have caused us to re-think this guidance. Are we paying more for an anchor, rode, and the requisite anchor handling equipment than we need? How accurate are the makers size recommendations? How much insurance are we really getting for the price of a bigger anchor?

For this report we took a range of modern, sometimes called new generation anchors, and their predecessors and averaged their weight vs. vessel size recommendations (see accompanying table). Much to our surprise, the weight recommendations for the new designs, Rocna, Excel, Supreme, etc. are very similar to the weight recommendation for the older, traditional models, CQR, Delta, Bruce etc. In both cases, the recommendation for a 35-foot yacht is approximately a 30-pound anchor. The exceptions are aluminum anchors from Fortress and Spade.

Most of the new generation anchors have been tested to international standards established by the RINA (Registro Italian Naval) or some other internationally recognized society. Rocna, Fortress, Supreme, Excel, Spade have been found to meet standards of Super High Holding Power, SHHP. The older anchors, CQR, Bruce, Delta are rated as High Holding Power. The difference between the two categories is that the SHHP have been tested and found to have a hold, comparing anchors of the same weight, that is two times that of the HHP anchors.

So if we’re getting double the holding power, does that mean we can use an anchor that is half the weight? Not necessarily. Nor can you expect another doubling of holding power by doubling the weight of an SHHP anchor.

Despite the sales pitch that the new anchors have greater holding capacity pound-for-pound, the anchor makers are suggesting that you replace your old CQR with the same weight new anchor. It appears that manufacturers are, in effect, doubling the historic safety factor. And for a cautious sailor, there is nothing wrong with this.

However, consider the advice that is often repeated on internet forums, or the local scuttlebutt, that cruising sailors should increase one size over the makers recommendation. So instead of a 33-pound Rocna for your Tartan 37, you buy a 44-pound Rocna-now with potentially three times the safety factor of an old school anchor. Apart from the added significant expense, this obsession with upsizing – more anchor, more chain, bigger windlass-can also add potentially unnecessary weight and concentrate it in the bow.

So what do we really get with that bigger anchor? There is an idea that if you double weight of an anchor you will double holding power. Except with extra-large commercial anchors and some specific tests, we’ve found no data to support this.

No independent test, as far as we know, has taken a series of different sized anchors of the same design and tested them in the same seabed for ultimate holding capacity. Tests have been conducted on commercial oil rig anchors like the Bruce, and the best scaling is about 90 percent-double weight and you increase hold by 1.8 times.

The only recreational anchor that we are aware of that has undergone some testing to determine the relationship between weight and holding is Fortress (in mud only, see Anchoring in Squishy Bottoms, PS February 2015 ). An analysis of all their tests on a complete range of their anchor sizes suggest that if you triple weight you increase hold by slightly more than two times, approximately an 80 percent efficiency as size is scaled up.

Ultimately, this means that when someone tells you they can calculate the increase in holding power as you move up in size, be careful not to read too much into this conclusion. For one, the ratio used deserves close scrutiny. Surely, the bigger anchor will provide better holding-but how much? This hard to quantify, even with computer modeling. And no matter how accurate your calculation-a ratio based on performance in one type of bottom might not apply in another.

One reason you can’t claim that doubling the weight doubles the holding is that as anchors increase in size, the stress on the construction increases. To compensate for the increase in stress, the steel thicknesses must be increased – and more steel weighs more. So in an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power.

And as we’ve shown in our past tests-anchor dimensions (especially the fluke area) and shape can play a significant role in performance. It might be possible to double weight and double the holding power without beefing up the steel, but the resulting anchor would be less strong relative to its designed holding power.

Weaker construction might not matter on an over-engineered anchor. However, we have seen how the use of inferior materials has resulted in anchors that bend more easily at designed loads (see Anchor Tests: Bending More Shanks, PS May 2013 ).

Anchor Angles

In past reports, we’ve discussed in detail how anchor design can impact holding, especially with the new generation anchors ( see An Inquiry into Anchor Angles, PS February 2017 ). As you consider which design best suits your needs, here are some things to consider.

Fluke/shank angle. The fluke/shank angle is the angle between fluke and shank. It is one of the determining factors in how quickly and deeply an anchor sets. For a simple design with flat plate fluke and a straight shank (like a Guardian) the angle is a line down the center of the shank to the hinge and then along the fluke. In shanks with curves or angles, the first line is usually drawn from the shackle pin to the point there the shank meets the fluke.

For three-dimensional flukes (as found in most new generation anchors), you have to estimate where the top of the fluke plate lies. The ballast chamber or shank support that might protrude from the sole, such as with Spade, or Vulcan anchor should not be used to determine shank/fluke angle.

It is the fluke top surface that is important. In previous tests we reported that in thin mud an anchor with a fluke angle of around 45 degrees will outperform an identical anchor with its fluke angle set at 30 degrees. But a firmer sand seabed is entirely different, and research demonstrates the ideal fluke angle for a typical sand bottom is around 30 degrees (see Small Anchor Reset Tests, PS February 2013 ).

Fluke-seabed angle. This is the angle of the fluke to the seabed during the phases of anchoring-most importantly, during the initial penetration into the bottom, and when the anchor is set.

Penetration angle. When an anchor is aligned ready to set, or engage with the seabed (it might need tension on the rode to achieve this) then the fluke will usually be at an angle of 60-70 degrees to the seabed. Commonly the anchor is on its side.

Setting angle. Once the anchor starts to penetrate it will self align and the fluke plate tend quickly toward its setting angle, usually of about 30 degrees. It is coincidence that the fluke/shank angle and setting angle are similar though most anchors tend to show the similarity of the two angles. Center of gravity can have a great effect on penetration angle. This is why many new generation anchors, like the Ultra, have weighted flukes. Having a 30-degree fluke/shank angle is irrelevant if the center of gravity is in the wrong place.

Shank length

If you imagine a Fortress with a shank/fluke angle of 30 degrees but a shank three times longer than its original design, then you can visualize how the anchor will probably simply slide along the seabed when tensioned. The throat opening will be too small. Similarly if you chop the shank in half, the toe of the anchor will simply scrape along the seabed. In both case the anchor will find difficulty in engaging because the penetration angle will be wrong.

Are the makers of new generation anchors over-stating the need for bigger anchors, thus requiring boat owners to pay much more than they might need in order to be secure at anchor? Possibly. Would going with a larger-than-required anchor actually hurt your anchors performance? Unlikely. As is often the case with our anchor reports, it is hard to come with some firm answers regarding both of these questions. Anchor studies are fraught with variables.

In our view, it is no crime to go up one size over the manufacturers recommended size, if your boat and crew can handle it. The anchor may require more reverse throttle to set, but ultimately, it should provide the holding you require. Likewise, it is reasonable to assume that the anchor makers guidance for sizing is reasonable. However, if an online advocate starts telling you that youll get x times more holding power by going up one size, ask him for the data.

Extra weight in an anchor is your insurance policy. Yes, you can almost always get more security with the heavier anchor, but whether or not you will every need that extra holding power is not conclusive. In our view, conservative sizing is added insurance-but until the data is in, we remain skeptical of any absolute claims that attempt to quantify the advantages of more weight when choosing an anchor.

Based on average recommendations from leading anchor makers, the weight savings of upgrading to a second generation anchor doesn’t really pay off until you get into the larger size vessels.

In an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power. To compensate for the higher loads, the steel must be thicker, resulting in different surface area/weight ratios.

• As fluke size increases, so do the loads. But if the construction isn’t beefed up to handle the loads, the result is failure. Flat plate steel in this Danforth fluke sheered.
• The shaft of an Excel anchor bent during veer testing.
• The flat flukes of the Bugel anchor makes it easy to calculate the shank-fluke angle.
• Here a Rocna anchor is in the initial setting angle, still capsized on one side, with not enough of its toe is dug into the soil to dig in. Bottom shape and center of gravity (some designs are weighted to control CG), helps to determine this angle.
• This Manson Ray anchor has rolled upright and assumed the angle of penetration that will help the anchor to bury into the bottom.

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How to Anchor a Sailboat

Follow These Guidelines to Anchor Safely and Securely

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The Importance of Good Anchoring Technique

Few sailing experiences are as scary as waking in the middle of the night with the wind blowing hard and your boat dragging anchor toward rocks, the shore, or another boat. And one of the most irritating things for most cruising sailors is finding another boat dragging down upon them or getting tangled in their own anchor line.

Good anchoring technique is crucial for safety. Yet all too often even some experienced sailors are in too much of a hurry and skip one of the important steps for anchoring securely. Some new sailors never learn the essentials and just toss the anchor overboard and assume they’ll be fine.

But it is not difficult to anchor correctly and securely in most conditions. Follow these guidelines to help ensure your boat is safely anchored so you can get a good night’s sleep.

1. Prepare in Advance

• Pick your anchorage carefully using an updated chart and paying attention to conditions, including wind direction and speed, likely tidal or other currents, and the forecast. Pay special attention to the chances for a shift in wind direction or speed. If your boat is pulled in the opposite direction during the night because of a reversing tidal current or wind, the anchor may be pulled out.
• The ideal anchorage area should have some protection from the wind and waves and not be against a lee shore in case the anchor drags. The ideal bottom is sand or mud, not rock or heavy seaweed or grass. Most cruising guides and some charts show good anchorages that are protected and have good holding ground. Charts also show bottom characteristics when known.
• Get the anchor ready before making your approach. Whether on a bow roller or lowered by hand from the bow, make sure the anchor rode is free to run. If the anchor rode is not marked at progressive depths with tags or color codes, stretch it out back and forth on deck so that you know how much rode you are letting out when anchoring. To be safe, plan to put out a rode about 7 times the water depth (counting the height of your bow over the water) at high tide.

2. Pick Your Spot Carefully

• After studying the chart and choosing a general protected area, look for a spot with the right depth: from a few feet deeper than the draft of your boat (at low tide) to as deep as 30-40 feet if necessary—if you have at least 200-300 feet of anchor rode.
• Make sure you are well clear of any channel regardless of how the boat swings with wind shifts, and that there are no hazards if your boat were to swing in a full circle around the anchor.
• When other boats are already anchored nearby, follow good anchoring etiquette to stay safe without risking collision or entanglement. The general rule is that the first boat in an anchorage can choose its spot at will and each subsequent boat must stay clear of others already present.
• Calculate how much swinging room you may need if the wind changes, based on how much anchor rode you will pay out according to the water depth. If possible, make sure your swinging circle does not overlap with any other boat’s swinging room.
• In a crowded anchorage where your swinging room may have to overlap another boat’s, choose a spot among similar boats. Most cruising sailboats with a keel will swing in the same direction at the same time and therefore should not collide if not positioned too close together. But a shallow-draft powerboat will swing on the wind differently from a keel sailboat, increasing the risk of collision if their swinging circles overlap.

3. Approach Slowly

• Although you can learn to anchor under sail, most cruising boats lower or furl the sails before making the approach into the anchorage, and anchor under power. Using the engine also gives you more control if a last-minute maneuver is needed.
• Approach your planned spot into the wind, keeping an eye on your depthfinder or chartplotter to ensure you are where you want to be on the chart. If there is a strong current in the area that affects the boat more than the wind, approach into the current instead.
• As you near the spot, slow down to allow the boat to coast to a stop. If you come in fast and have to use the engine in reverse to stop, there’s a good chance the boat may pivot or turn during the reversing, and the boat then will not at first pull directly back on the anchor. There’s seldom any reason to be in a hurry at this point.
• Double-check to make sure you are not too close to another boat and are at the intended depth. If you decide you need to move to either side, circle back around to make your approach again to the new spot upwind or current.

4. Lower, Don’t Drop, the Anchor

• Wait until the person at the helm says the boat has stopped completely and is starting to move backward on the wind or current before lowering the anchor. (Watch your GPS speed if you’re not sure.) If the boat is still moving ahead, you may accidentally set the anchor in the wrong direction by pulling it ahead instead of drifting back to set it.
• It is important to lower the anchor gradually to prevent the anchor rode from falling down on the anchor flukes and possibly fouling the anchor. In that case you may not realize the anchor has not set well, and if the wind comes up later the anchor can easily drag if fouled. Never just toss the anchor over hoping for the best!
• You can tell when the anchor reaches the bottom because of the reduced strain on the rode. Pause a moment to let the boat move back and pull the rode tight. If the boat is floating motionless in the absence of wind and current, tell the person at the helm to put the engine in reverse to start the boat backward. Your goal here is to align the anchor correctly on the bottom, with its shank pulled back in the direction in which the boat will lie at anchor. Otherwise, the anchor chain may foul the shank or flukes and prevent the anchor from setting well.

5. Set the Anchor

• Making sure the anchor is well set (that is, dug in well in the bottom) is the most important part of anchoring. The anchor holds the boat by digging its flukes into the bottom, not by just lying there like a weight on the bottom. If the anchor is not set, the boat may seem well anchored until the wind comes up—when the anchor will then bounce along the bottom as the boat drags toward a hazard.
• As the boat moves backwards due to wind, current, or the engine’s power in reverse, gradually pay out the rode. Always keep a light tension on the line, but don’t yet clinch it tight. (If you tighten the rode too soon, the anchor will be pulled upward and out of the bottom and will not set.)
• Visualize the anchor rode pulling straight back on the anchor shank as the point(s) of the anchor fluke(s) dig in. If your anchor rode is all chain or has a section of chain at the anchor, the pull will be more nearly horizontal along the bottom. This is how anchors are designed to dig in and hold.
• When you have about 3 times as much anchor rode out as the water depth (a scope of 3 to 1), temporarily cleat or cinch the anchor rode at the bow and let it pull tight. Keep a hand on the rode to feel the tension. The boat should stop and the rode feel very tight, indicating the anchor has set. If the anchor has not set, you will feel the tension in the rode come and go or feel its pull changing as the anchor bounces along the bottom.
• If the anchor has set, continue with the next step of paying out scope. If it has not set, you can also continue but must be very careful to ensure the anchor digs in when you have the proper scope. If the anchor has not set yet with about a 3 to 1 scope, many sailors prefer to hoist it now and try again rather than letting out more anchor rode and having to bring it all back up to try again later.

6. Pay Out the Proper Scope

• Continue paying out the rode as the boat moves backward, until you reach the desired scope. Many factors affect the scope needed, including the type of boat, the type of anchor, whether the rode is all chain or a combination of chain and line, the characteristics of the bottom, and the wind predicted.
• As a general rule, most cruisers prefer a scope of 7 to 1 for safe anchoring overnight. For a lunch stop in a calm anchorage, a scope of 5 to 1 or less may be sufficient, assuming someone stays on the boat in case the wind increases dramatically. With higher winds or big waves, a scope as high as 10 to 1 may be appropriate. Remember that the scope should be based on the high tide water depth. If you anchor at low tide in 10 feel of water and the depth 6 hours later is 20 feet, your scope then would be only half of what it was.
• Once you have the proper scope, back down hard on the anchor using the boat's engine to ensure it is well set. The rode should be very tight and not give at all while backing.
• Scope can be adjusted later if conditions change, simply by letting out more rode if desired. This increases your swinging distance, of course, so you should confirm you will remain far enough away from other boats or hazards.

7. Check the Anchor Periodically

• Even when you’re sure the anchor is well set, changing conditions can result in the anchor dragging. Before relaxing completely for the night, make sure you can tell later on if the boat is dragging.
• Your GPS or plotter can reveal changes of position, although small changes may not be noticeable or may be interpreted as just swinging in a different direction. If possible, take sightings on at least two features on shore (choose something that will be visible at night) and note the compass bearings to each. If these bearings change significantly later, you may be dragging. A smartphone or tablet app like My Anchor Watch can also help ensure you know it if your anchor is starting to drag.
• Another technique used by old-timers is to let down a small second anchor or weight from the stern just to the point where it rests on the bottom, and then drape it over the boom and dangle a noise-maker like a bucket or pot tied to the free end. If the boat moves very far, the line will pull the noisemaker over the boom to clang down into the cockpit, hopefully waking you to take action if needed!
• If you suspect you may be dragging, check the anchor rode at the bow. You may feel or see changes in its tension if the anchor is bumping over the bottom. If you have any evidence of dragging, monitor the situation very carefully. In calmer conditions the anchor may reset, but with gusty or heavy winds it will likely not dig in by itself, and you may have to hoist the anchor and move to a new position and start over.
• Finally, in an emergency situation if the anchor is dragging or a gale puts you at risk of dragging—particularly against a reef or lee shore—you can avert disaster by running the engine slowly in forward gear to take some of the strain off the anchor rode.

A common anchoring problem occurs if the anchor's flukes hook under a rock, chain, or other bottom debris and prevent the anchor from being hoisted. Try backing pulling the anchor up from the opposite direction in an attempt to free it. The best solution is to use a  trip line  or the  AnchorRescue  retrieval device to prevent the risk of losing your anchor should it become snagged.

Anchoring involves a number of skills, which improve with experience. Many books have been written on the subject, and when cruising in unfamiliar waters or far from home where you may be caught in a tricky situation, it’s a good idea to have a book on anchoring or seamanship on board to consult for appropriate techniques in unusual circumstances.

Other Articles about Anchoring

• How to Use an Anchor Trip Line
• How to Retrieve an Anchor
• Use AnchorRescue to Prevent Losing a Fouled Anchor
• Correct Scope is Essential for Safe and Comfortable Anchoring
• How to Raise the Mainsail
• Learn How to Sail a Small Sailboat – 1. The Parts of the Boat
• How to Gybe a Sailboat
• Best Sailing and Boating Apps
• How to Heave To a Sailboat
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• How to Tow a Dinghy Behind a Sailboat
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Best Sailboat Anchors of 2024

Stopping to explore nearby reefs and grab a quick bite of lunch, sailors often take for granted the safety and security an anchor provides. But if you’ve ever had to ride out a storm—or dragged anchor at night—you’ll soon learn the importance in choosing the best sailboat anchor for your vessel.

To determine how strong your anchor needs to be, we must first understand the differences between old guards versus new generations. Choosing an anchor takes many factors into consideration, some of which tailor to personal sailing habits, your vessel’s size and even the body of water you frequently sail.

While encouraging you to challenge your seafaring skills, we at The Adventure Junkies want beginner sailors and liveaboards to find safe anchorage during rough seas. Below, you’ll find a breakdown of common anchor types and when to use them.

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out the Best Sailboat Winches .

QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST SAILBOAT ANCHORS

• Manson Supreme
• Manson Boss
• Rocna Original
• LEWMAR Delta Fast-Set
• LEWMAR Bruce-Style Claw
• Danforth S-600

SAILBOAT ANCHOR REVIEWS

Check out the latest price on: Amazon

BEST FOR: Sailors who anchor in all seabed types

MATERIAL: Galvanized steel

BOW ROLLER: Yes

PROS: Self-righting roll bar, new generation anchor, sets in hard and grassy seabeds, lifetime warranty

CONS: Less affordable

MANSON SUPREME

BEST FOR: Larger sailboats who sail in all types of seabeds

PROS: Self-righting, new generation anchor, narrow shank with 2 slots for day use and anchor trip

CONS: Less affordable, comparable to Rocna

MANSON BOSS

BEST FOR: Sailors who want their vessel to be both functional and aesthetically pleasing

MATERIAL: High tensile galvanized and stainless steel

PROS: Self-launching curved fixed-shank, strong surface area to hold ratio, adjustable shackle for fixed eye and sliding shank for anchor trip

CONS: Narrow shank, no self-righting roll bar

ROCNA ORIGINAL

BEST FOR: Vessels that frequent strong winds and tide shifts

PROS: New generation, self-righting roll bar design, plow-style wide fluke, sharp chisel, fits most bow rollers

CONS: More expensive than fluke-styles

BEST FOR: Vessels under 40 foot that frequent strong winds and tide shifts

PROS: Corkscrew plow design that digs deep, holds strong in every seabed condition, ballasted tip

CONS: More expensive

BEST FOR: Vessels that sail in marshy areas with grassy sea bottoms

PROS: Good for bow rollers, pivoting hinge shank, quickly resets

CONS: pinches fingers, hard setting in rocky bottoms

LEWMAR DELTA FAST-SET

BEST FOR: Vessels that sail in sand and grass

MATERIAL: Galvanized manganese steel

PROS: Performs well in grass and sand, one piece construction, performs well on bow roller

CONS: Fixed shank underperforms in mud

Check out the latest price on: West Marine

BEST FOR: Sailors who need a fast-setting anchor in mud or sandy seabeds

MATERIAL: Aluminum

PROS: Similar to Danforth, lightweight, easily stored, good hold to weight ratio, fast-setting

CONS: Does not perform well in rocky and grassy seabeds

LEWMAR BRUCE-STYLE CLAW

BEST FOR: Budget-conscious sailors with sailboats larger than 30 feet

MATERIAL: High tensile steel

PROS: No moving parts to break, lighter than plow, holds well to grass seabeds

CONS: Heavier than most anchors, low holding power, not easy to store, drags in storm conditions

DANFORTH S-600

BEST FOR: Smaller sailing vessels who sail in mud and sandy sea bottoms

BOW ROLLER: No

PROS: Good general anchor for smaller vessels, lightweight, easily stowable

CONS: Doesn’t reset well, not compatible for most bow rollers, pinches fingers

COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST SAILBOAT ANCHORS

8 things to consider to find the best sailboat anchor, monohull vs. multihull vessel types.

A beginner sailor might question which anchor is better for their vessel’s hull type. But to be clear–when it comes to choosing an anchor for either monohulls or multihulls (like catamarans), the type of anchor you choose depends more on your vessel’s size and weight. Vessel types are rarely–if ever–a deciding factor.

LAKES VS. COASTAL WATERWAYS

Lakes and rivers do not require the same strength you would need for coastal waters and open seas. But take your sailboat on the Great Lakes, ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) or to brave a transatlantic journey, and you’ll need something more adequate. All anchors listed here are for coastal waterways, but may also be efficient for smaller bodies of water.

CHOOSING THE CORRECT ANCHOR WEIGHT FOR VESSEL LENGTH

To choose the correct anchor weight for your vessel, you need to know your vessel’s weight and length. Always verify the anchor manufacturer’s specifications and suggested vessel length, but know the numbers are typically inflated. I suggest to always bump up to the next size and sail with a heavier anchor than your vessel requires.

CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS

Anchors are forged from a variety of materials; some metals more modern than others. Keep in mind when you purchase that manufacturers may carry anchor styles in a variety of materials.

Aluminum anchors are lightweight by comparison, but come at a cost. Less affordable than steel anchors, they are also not as strong. But sailor prefer them because–when set correctly–they have high holding power.

GALVANIZED STEEL

Galvanized steel is a very strong and inexpensive metal. This material is perfect for sailors who don’t much care how shiny their anchor appears on the bow roller. But although galvanized metal is corrosive, it can wear over some time. Be sure to look for hot-dipped galvanized steel or plan for it to be re-galvanized.

STAINLESS STEEL

If you want your anchor to appear more aesthetically pleasing, stainless steel is the material of choice. Stainless steel is also more resistant to rust and corrosion, but keep in mind it scratches easily and can make anchors more costly.

HIGH TENSILE STEEL

With nearly 3 times the holding power strength as regular steel, making most anchors with high-tensile steel relatively stronger–as long as the anchor sets well.

MANGANESE STEEL

A newer material offered for anchors is manganese steel. Manganese combines the strength of mild steels with high-impact durability for setting repeatedly in rocky seabeds.

SEABED CONDITIONS

Beneath the water’s surface, you can encounter a variety of seabeds. This is one of the most important deciding factors in choosing a sailboat anchor. For liveaboards who find themselves sailing in a variety of seabeds, a plow style anchor or scoop is universal, whereas fluke anchors are perfect for flat sands and muddy bottoms.

ROCKS, REEFS AND CORAL

Rocky seabeds can secure anchors quite well, if not a little too well. Sometimes, sailors find themselves needing to dislodge anchors which become stuck. In these cases, it’s wise to use anchors with slotted shanks, making it easier to release trip lines.

MUD, SAND AND GRASS

Muddy bottoms and sandy seabeds require fluke-style anchors with wide surface areas. And because mud can disguise underlying sediments, it also helps if the anchor can penetrate. Fortress anchors are great for these seabed conditions.

Sandy seabeds grab anchors very well, but challenges arise during shifting tides. Hinged-shank fluke anchors allow pivoting and non-hinged scoop anchors rotate under the sand.

Grass tends to be slippery, making it difficult for certain anchor types to grasp. In these seabeds, heavier anchors outperform engineered designs.

WEATHER CONDITIONS

Even if you have a nightwatch partner, sudden storms overtake vessels and send them off course. If you want to set anchor without the worry, many new generation anchors have been tested in hurricanes and outperformed old guard anchors in extreme weather.

HOW WELL DOES IT SET?

If an anchor lacks a way to position itself, it may not set as optimally as intended. You want to assure the anchor is engineered to self-right itself into position when it falls on the seabed. Anchors can set by using a combination of factors from roll bars to tip ballasts to chiseled fluke styles.

The new generation anchors are designed with roll bars, reacting to flat seabeds by self-righting and rolling itself over. Originally engineered by Rocna , the design has been further adopted by more anchor manufacturers like Manson .

TIP BALLASTS

In place of roll bars, tip ballasts are simply weighted on one end. It will naturally tilt toward the tip ballasts edge, allowing the anchor to set when it’s dragged. Anchors can have both roll bars and tip ballasts.

DOES IT MOVE WITH CURRENT & TIDE CHANGES?

One challenging skill in dropping anchor is, in fact, getting it out again to reset. With some anchors, setting it on the first try is a matter of luck, especially when you’re unsure of your seabed condition. It’s important to be able to quickly reset, or you may find yourself strapping on a wet suit and goggles to retrieve it in frigid waters.

Sailors should always carry two anchor varieties. This way, after reading a sonar signatures to determine your depth and seabed conditions, you can choose which anchor will best hold as well as the scope needed to reach.

HINGED SHANKS

Hinged shank anchors are needed for sailing in waters where there are tidal changes. If the sailboat turns about, a hinged shank can pivot itself without having to be reset. But moving parts pinch so watch those fingers!

FIXED SHANKS

Fixed shank anchors are fine anchors if you aren’t worried about tidal changes and currents. You may also rely on fixed shanks in muddy seabeds if they are also scoop-styles.

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out these popular buyer's guides:

Sailboat Anchors

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Everything You Need to Know About 8 Major Boat Anchor Types

There are quite a few types of anchors you can use for your boat and they are not all interchangeable so it’s key that you pick the right one. Many boaters carry more than one type as not all anchors work well in all conditions. It’s good to have an anchor that can work on soft, muddy surfaces as well as one that can work in hard or rocky conditions. If you know where you’ll be boating and what conditions are like ahead of time, you can prepare by ensuring you have the right anchor. 

All an anchor needs to do to be functional is hold your vessel in place in the water. But this requires an anchor suited to both the size of your boat and the conditions below the surface of the water.

Let’s take a look at 8 of the most common anchor types to see what they’re good for and how they work.

Fluke Anchor or Danforth Anchor

Fluke is the type of anchor, but Danforth is a trademark name. It’s like tissue versus Kleenex. The name “fluke” is a reference to the pointed parts of the anchor that stick out like teeth.

• Description: Some fluke designs can come apart, and some are solid. Typically, they are made of lightweight aluminum and offer remarkable strength and holding power even when they are rather small and light.  There are several fluke designs, and some may have multiple flukes, but there will be at least two present.  These are great for bass boats, pontoons , and much more.
• Boat Type : Small to medium boats under 30 feet
• Ideal For : Muddy, sandy, and soft seabeds
• Bad For: Rocky bottoms, hard bottoms, coral
• Advantages: The flukes can dig in like a scoop and bury themselves deep, allowing the pressure of the mud/sand and water to push down on the flat parts of the flukes, creating a strong hold to keep your boat in place. This is arguably the best kind of anchor to use in these situations
• Disadvantages: If the ground is packed hard or covered in rocks or weeds, the fluke will be less effective at getting any grip and may not be able to lock into anything at all, making it essentially useless. 
• Cost: Fluke anchors run a range of prices based on size and quality. Some smaller flukes that still perform very well can be purchased for under $25. Higher quality and larger flukes can be found for $100 to $150. 

Claw Anchor or Bruce Anchor

Bruce is the trademark name for a kind of claw anchor.

• Description: Claw anchors resemble plow anchors but with a broader scoop section and typically three teeth or claws that it uses to dig into the substrate to gain hold. 
• Boat Type: Mid-sized boats up to about 60 feet
• Ideal For : Soft bottoms that are muddy but also rock and coral
• Bad For: Loose seabeds like sand are not ideal for the claw, and hard clay bottoms will offer no purchase. Claws do not perform well in weeds, either.
• Advantages: Claw anchors are considered some of the easiest to use. Setting a claw anchor is usually quick and easier than other anchor types. It’s also easy to reset when it comes loose, so many boaters prefer it and consider it a good, all-around anchor for most conditions. It works best when the bottom is soft so it can get some purchase, and it also does well in rock and coral because the teeth or claws can wedge into place.
• Disadvantages: Pound for pound, the claw anchor also has less holding strength than most other anchors so in poor conditions, you may find a claw anchor coming loose on its own far more than you’d like. 
• Cost: The smallest Bruce or claw-style anchors start around $30 to $40 and are best suited for smaller vessels. Larger and heavier claws, especially stainless steel ones, will increase in price to as much as $150 or more. Marine-grade claw anchors that weigh over 40 lbs can even break $500.

Mushroom Anchor

These are more often used for permanent moorings, like for buoys, as their holding power only increases over time as silt and debris builds up on top of it. They work by simply sitting in place and allowing the cup part to fill up over time as the current deposits material inside.

• Description: Mushroom anchors get their name from their shape, which resembles an upside-down mushroom cap.
• Boat Type : Tiny boats or permanent moorings
• Ideal For: Sandy or loose bottoms so the sediment can collect in the mushroom.
• Bad For: Large boats as well as rocky or hard bottoms
• Advantages : Mushrooms are some of the cheapest anchors and they come in small sizes that are ideal for very small boats. Larger mushrooms can hold things in place permanently if they are given time to really take root.
• Disadvantages: Most mushrooms are not ideal for temporary mooring because they need time to become buried and provide resistance. They have very limited holding power for larger vessels, especially for short term anchoring. On a bottom that is hard or rocky, a mushroom anchor will not be able to provide any holding power as they need soft material and silt to fill in the cup and provide resistance. 
• Cost: A cheap, cast iron mushroom anchor made for a small vessel might cost you around $20. Heavier mushrooms, up to 20lbs, that have a vinyl or galvanized coating can cost as much as $70 or more.

Grapnel Anchor Or Grappler Anchor

They are designed to work on a rocky bottom where the hooks can wedge in between and around rocks to form a strong hold.

• Description: These anchors resemble a grappling hook and tend to have four or more hook-like fingers spread out around the central column. The claws usually fold down when not in use, making this one of the most space-saving anchor designs.
• Boat Type: Smaller vessels under 15 feet
• Ideal For: Rocks
• Bad For: Soft or muddy bottoms
• Advantages: Grapnel anchors are best for smaller boats like canoes because of their compact size and holding power. Once set, it’s very hard to release a grapnel anchor so the hold is reliable.
• Disadvantages: These anchors don’t work well without rocks to hold onto. They also tend to come loose easily if the winds and currents change which doesn’t make them ideal for any sort of long term anchorage.
• Cost: Grapnel anchors can be incredibly cheap with dinghy-sized anchors at under $15. Larger galvanized or stainless steel versions can range from about $60 to $90.

Plow Anchor or CQR Anchor

CQR is a trademark name for a kind of plow anchor. These get their name because they look like an old-timey plow you might find in a field. These anchors are very old and, as such, are very common as well.

• Description: Where a fluke has two or more teeth, a plow has that center fluke or tooth that will dig into the bottom to give the anchor the needed hold.
• Boat Type: Medium-sized boats around 60 feet
• Ideal For: Soft bottoms like sand or mud and also weeds
• Bad For: Hard or rocky bottoms, also very loose bottoms
• Advantages: A plow anchor is one of the best anchors for handling changes in wind and current. They are less likely to break free and need to be reset in these conditions. They tend to work well in many conditions and are fairly reliable and predictable as a result.
• Disadvantages: Plow anchors don’t offer as strong a hold as many other anchor types, and, as a result, to get one that works, you may need to opt for a heavier anchor than you would if you used a different type.
• Cost: Galvanized steel plow anchors can be just over $100, while stainless steel plows can get up around $250 or more.

Delta Anchor

This is another kind of plow anchor and sometimes it’s called a wing anchor. Delta anchors are some of the most popular anchors in use today and are solid, all purpose anchors. These are ideal for most sized vessels including larger boats.

• Description: Delta is a single-piece anchor while the CQR is a hinged piece, so the operation is slightly different. Otherwise, this is much the same as a typical plow anchor.
• Boat Type: Up to 70 feet
• Ideal For: Soft, muddy bottoms but also sand and clay.
• Bad For: Rocks
• Advantages: The Delta anchor is reliable in many conditions and, When it does grab hold because it’s one solid piece, it offers a surprisingly strong hold as well, especially when compared to similar anchors.
• Disadvantages: May be too large or expensive for many boats.
• Cost: A Delta anchor for a boat around 30 to 40 feet may set you back $400 to $500. A 22lb stainless steel Delta can be over $700. That said, you can find many Deltas for smaller boats that cost between $100 and $200.

Box anchors are a relatively new anchor design but have proven to also be extremely versatile. They are not designed for any specific size of boat and seem to work well with all kinds. They say you can even anchor a houseboat with box anchors.

• Description: They are designed in a box shape lined with hooks or flukes along the outside edges. It works in any bottom condition by digging into harder surfaces or scraping softer ones to fill the box and add weight. Because of how this anchor sets, you may need less anchor line to use it.
• Boat Type: Potentially any boat, though it may be overkill for smaller vessels.
• Ideal For: Any seabed
• Bad For: May be unnecessary for smaller vessels
• Advantages: The box anchor uses less line than a traditional anchor and can hold a 45-degree angle. The down-facing flukes can dig into the seabed without catching on debris, and the anchor can also reset itself when it comes loose. The box anchor can set almost immediately after dropping it. It offers some extreme holding power with less anchor rode than many other modern anchors, making it one of the more popular up-and-coming anchor styles.
• Disadvantages : Because they’re so new, they are not as well tested or trusted yet, and they can also get a little pricey, especially for casual boaters or those with smaller vessels. 
• Cost : You can get box anchors from about $100 for a basic version up to around $300 for a stainless steel one.

Shallow Water Anchor or Power Pole

Power pole anchors work automatically by using what looks like a hydraulic arm to raise and lower the pole and root it in place. A DIY shallow water anchor can be as simple as a fiberglass pole attached to the hull with a clamp. 

• Description: Unlike a standard anchor attached to a line and dropped overboard, a shallow water anchor is essentially just a pole extending from the side of the hull down to the surface below the water. Because it’s for use in shallow water, it anchors the boat directly to the ground below without requiring a line.
• Boat Type: These anchors are often used on jon boats , flats boats , or any vessel used for fishing in very shallow water.
• Ideal For: Shallow water
• Bad For: Deep water, larger rocks.
• Advantages: With a power pole set up, these anchors can be set into nearly any kind of bottom and then released again in just moments. They also offer an extremely secure hold that roots the boat in place to ensure minimal movement while fishing. DIY poles are often cheap and easy to make, and many video tutorials are online.
• Disadvantages: A Power Pole type boat anchor can be a major investment, and not every boater wants to put that much money into an anchor. By the same token, a DIY version will be cheaper but may take some time and effort to produce, and also you may need to do some trial and error to get it to work.
• Cost: Power Poles can cost over $2000 and also require maintenance. A DIY pole, however, can cost you $20 or $30 depending on the design.

The Bottom Line

There are a number of types of anchors which work with whatever sized boat you have and whatever surface you are trying to anchor in. It’s always important to test your anchor out to make sure it meets your needs, can hold your boat, and is easy for you to both set and release when needed. 

Most anchors don’t cost a lot of money but some larger or more complex designs can set you back a considerable sum of money so make sure you’re investing in something you truly need before committing to any purchase. 

My grandfather first took me fishing when I was too young to actually hold up a rod on my own. As an avid camper, hiker, and nature enthusiast I'm always looking for a new adventure.

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The guide to retrospectives – remote, in person, or hybrid

Master the sailboat retrospective in 4 steps

You want your agile retrospectives to be as valuable as possible, right? Of course you do. We have good news for you: the sailboat retrospective is an engaging way for your team to honestly evaluate your previous sprint and figure out the best way forward. Here’s everything you need to know about this helpful retrospective technique. 

What is the sailboat retrospective?

The sailboat retrospective is a retrospective technique where you and your agile team members will envision the last sprint as a sailboat. It’s a visual way for your team to identify what pushed the project forward, as well as what held it back. 

The 4 steps to a sailboat retrospective

This sailboat metaphor makes for an enlightening sprint retrospective. But how can you implement the sailboat technique on your own team? Start by opening a  sailboat retrospective template  on your Miro board. You'll see a sailboat image, a patch of land, a waterline, rocks, and an anchor below the boat. Here's one we love by Miro user Johanna Tortensson. Next, gather your team and equip them with some  digital sticky notes  in Miro to use during the retro. You can even add their names as tags to the stickies so they know which ones are designated for them. With everything in place, it’s time for your team to brainstorm their answers to the following questions with regard to your last sprint:

What risks did the sprint face?

What delayed the sprint?

What propelled the sprint forward?

Team members will jot their answers to those questions down on individual sticky notes and place them on the appropriate spot on your picture of a sailboat. Then, similar themes can be grouped together, and your team can discuss their findings and vote on what action items they’ll use to improve the next sprint. Make sense? Good. Now, let’s talk a little bit more about the individual elements of the sailboat exercise.  

1. Rocks (risks)

What happens if a boat hits a rock? It gets hung up and damaged. The same is true for your sprint. The rocks represent a potential risk or obstacle for your sprint. These can persist for a long time if your team doesn’t come up with a way to address them. 

2. Anchors (delaying issues)

An anchor keeps a boat in one spot, and that’s why they’re the perfect representation of the things that held your sprint back. What caused major bottlenecks or challenges? What inhibited your agile team from making as much progress as possible? 

3. Wind (helping teams)

Wind propels a sailboat forward, and that’s why it represents what went well with your previous sprint. You’ll identify what was quite literally putting wind in your sails. You might also hear this referred to as the helping team. 

4. Land (the goal)

Finally, the land is where your boat is headed. Using the sailboat metaphor it represents your goal or vision for the sprint. It can include both long and short-term objectives for the agile team. 

Why the sailboat is such a useful retrospective 

The sailboat is a popular retrospective format for a number of reasons. First of all, it’s a fun, visual way to reflect on your past sprint and capture ideas. The use of the sailboat metaphor makes it far more approachable and digestible. A team doesn’t need to be well-versed in agile concepts and terminology to understand how to make this technique work for them. Additionally, many retrospective techniques look mostly at what went well and what didn’t during a sprint. This format digs deeper and challenges teams to identify what is helping and hurting their project, timeline, and their collaboration. This leads to even more continuous improvement. 

Keeping collaboration and confidentiality high with sailboat retrospectives

With a sailboat retrospective, your team is bound to uncover a lot of valuable information – some of which might not be meant for everybody’s eyes. If you complete this sailboat exercise on a traditional whiteboard, you’ll need to remove all of your findings at the end of the retrospective meeting or store your board somewhere safe. And, even further, if some of your team members are remote, there’s no way for them to access that information if and when they need it.That’s why it’s better to use a virtual, collaborative whiteboard like  Miro . You can use all of your favorite retrospective games and techniques, and your team (no matter where they are!) will be able to actively participate and easily refer back to that information later.  Learn more about Miro's online whiteboard tool>>

3 FAQs about the sailboat retrospective

Ask any Scrum master, agile coach, product owner, or team leader, and they’ll be quick to tell you that the sailboat retrospective is a fun way for your team to evaluate your latest sprint. Have more questions about how it could work on your own agile team? We have your answers right here. 

1. Why is the sailboat retrospective so widely used?

Here’s our short answer: because it’s simple. The metaphor makes it highly engaging, and it also makes it incredibly straightforward. Everybody understands a sailboat, so teams can use this technique to generate ideas and brainstorm action items without a lot of training or technical expertise. 

2. Is a sailboat and speedboat retrospective the same?

They’re very similar in that they both use a metaphor as a good starting point for your sprint reviews. There are a number of different retrospective techniques that use a similar system and metaphor, like the sailboat, speedboat, and even the pirate ship. 

3. What do anchors represent in the sailboat retrospective? 

Anchors represent the things that held your sprint or project back. What kept it from moving forward as efficiently as possible? Perhaps you had a lot of siloed communication. Or maybe getting the right feedback and approvals was a bottleneck. Those delays are represented as anchors on your picture of a sailboat.

Ready to get started? Try this sailboat retrospective template for free when you sign up for Miro.

Michael de le Maza, Agile Coach Michael is an industry-recognized Agile & Scrum Coach and consultant who helps companies succeed by supporting company-wide agile transformations.

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Nixon Beach Sandbar

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Key Biscayne, FL 33149

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Nixon Beach (Sandbar) is a popular boating destination spot which is situated approximately a quarter mile south west of Key Biscayne. It's a great place to anchor up for the afternoon and enjoy the weather, scenery and the people you happen to be with. At low tide the water is about waist deep and it's clear blue. It can be a little breezy at times which can cause the boat to rock a bit, but if your use to that then you won't have any problems. You can snorkel and paddle board here and the waters are usually very calm. On the weekends if the weather is nice, it will be packed with day trip boaters, so get here early to secure a nice spot. Now the historical footnote. The sandbar is named after Richard Nixon, the thirty seventh President of The United States. I do vaguely remember him as the President, so I'm aging myself here He vacationed frequently in Key Biscayne during the 1960s and had many political benefactors in the Miami area. Back then, Key Biscayne was more or less a sleepy area with one luxury hotel and a lot of small old Florida style single homes. In 1969, shortly after Nixon became President, he purchased three of these homes on Bay Lane, at well below market prices from Florida Senator George Smathers. The houses were in a compound that had a private beach. The Secret Service & US military had to construct a helipad to accommodate Marine One. The cost of the helipad and security upgrades to the residences was estimated at about 400k. Nixon made fifty trips there during the course of his Presidency (no, there wasn't an audio taping system in the place). Now here is the kicker, after resigning in 1974 he sold the properties, which included the helipad, at a huge profit (no, not a crook ) and was accused of benefiting from taxpayers expense. For you movie buffs Scarface was also filmed on Key Biscayne. The residences were torn down in '04 when a local real estate bought them and built a modern mansion. In addition to taking in the beautiful natural views, you can also admire the multi multi million dollar mansions that are now on Key Biscayne. Mr. Nixon probably should have held on to those properties a little bit longer.

See all photos from Chris H. for Nixon Beach Sandbar

If you haven't pulled up in your boat here during the peak summer months blasting your music then who are you? This is a major spot for boaters searching for a nearby spot to enjoy shallow waters amongst one of the most populated and lively water spots in miami. You can't swim over here so obviously a boat is required but be prepared for a plentiful bunch of party people. With a loaded cooler and plenty of music, you'll fit in just too. It's not for the faint of heart and unless it's on a weekday, I wouldn't label it kid-friendly on most summer weekends. It's not a far drive so arriving here doesn't take much fuel if you're coming from a nearby marina. Don't forget your sunscreen because it's crucial for those days where there's not a cloud in sight.

Ahhhh Nixon! A nice little sandbar just south of bear cut! Don't want to take your boar all the way to Elliot key well Nixon beach is a quarter of a mile south of Key Biscayne. The depth varies from as much as 5 feet to as little as 6 inches (depends on tide and how close you get to sandbar). This is a great place to tie up to a few boats have a BBQ and hang out in the water. He is a cool fact: Nixon beach is named after president Richard Nixon. Why you ask? Well the sandbar runs parallel to his old house on Key Biscayne (just south) so its pretty cool when you anchor up you see this beautiful house on its own little peninsula where a president used to live. FYI! we can rent a party boat its 2500 but its all day! Includes beer and chips! Plus kayaks and a water trampoline! If we get 40 people or so its roughly 70 per person anyone interested?

This was truly a beautiful beach, that had everything that you could ask for. There is the parking lot, Walking deeper in, then the park area where you can barbecue. Further walking you can see the restrooms and showers and then there is your view of the gorgeous beach -Nixon. I had a really great time here since usually I come to Florida for work, this was the only time I came and actually enjoyed the beach. Although it was packed with people, canopy's and full families having reunions full of fun, I found a nice spot for me and my loved ones near the palm trees. * "Sometimes coconuts fall" which is what we were told when we had just sat down , and the beach security asked us to move because we had children in our group, so we did. No biggie. The water was surprisingly clean, I guess since I am used to the muddy-green like waters we have in most spots of New York. I was impressed, the water though was freezing cold!it was a hot day (nearly 90) so it was such a treat to come here. I also noticed that you could drink beer and other alcoholic beverages here as long as they are not in glass bottles. I did not drink on my trip, but that is what I noticed. We stayed until sundown, and then it started to get cold, so we left, but I love that people didn't bother us and there is such a great community over there. I would definitely recommend to go and visit.

Always, nice to get away to the ocean, Nixon Beach is definitely a great spot to relax and enjoy the South Florida sun! Beautiful scenery and clean water with a near by sandbar. I recommend if commuting by boat, to bring some floating devices to attach to your vessel and lay out on the water.

Could not find this beach. Directins took us on a wild goose chase. Found a dumpy area and a neighborhood had to go somewhere else

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14 ' aluminum boat motor and trailer - $2,900 (Germfask)

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14 ' aluminum boat motor and trailer - boats - by owner - marine...

Mirrocraft 14ft aluminum boat with a folding tongue trailer and 20 HP Honda four stroke outboard. Comes with a cover, 2 fishing seats, anchor, and fuel tank.