bronze sailboat rigging

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Bronze turnbuckles yes or no?

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While the boat hunt is on we came across a boat that might need new standing rigging. It has great bronze turnbuckles that are now coated with great looking patina however if we change the wire can they still be trusted. My only guess would be to have a real pro test them?  

Remember that nearly all turnbuckles are bronze under the chrome. Stainless galls and is typically only used on smaller boats. So probably all of the boats you are looking at have bronze turnbuckles (or at least bronze inserts). Even my F-24 has bronze turnbuckles.  

Bronze turnbuckles are for all intent and purpose lifetime items. If the threads are good and they are not significantly bent out of shape they should be good to go.  

When we replaced our standing rig over a decade ago, the cost of replacing the original chromed bronze turn buckles with new ones was a small part of the whole rig. Why not just do it all at once? Check out the shroud terminations and chain plate structure while the rig is down, as well. Just look at this expense as 'insurance' to keep you and your family safe.  

Come on salty , what boat were you looking at that had unplated bronze turn buckles ?  

Why would anyone want plated turnbuckles when raw bronze says so much about real.  

Its an old 1962 Pearson  

10 years for the wires and 20 years for turnbuckles. Try to find out when they were last changed. I agree to the idea that turnbuckles are only a fraction of the rig change. It is a very good idea tro change the whole rig.  

There is no single correct answer here because the term 'bronze' is not an adequately unique description of a single material. Cheap turnbuckles are cast bronze (often found on many of the original equipment bronze turnbuckles on Asian boats and some 1970's era less expensive US boats). Quality turnbuckles are forged Everdur or silicone-bronze. Similarly the threads can be cast and cleaned, or machined, with machined threads being more durable and structurally sound. Chromed bronze turnbuckles are superior in all ways since hair line cracks in the chroming serves as an indication of whether the turnbuckle is flexing and fatiguing. Most of the guidelines that I have read in recent years generally recommend replacing the standing rigging every 10 years and recommend replacing the turnbuckles at that time. (that recommendation is way down from the 20 year interval that used to be recommended and i don't know why.) But if there is a turnbuckle failure, the barrel on a forged bronze turnbuckle is the part that rarely fails. More frequently, the failure occurs on the studs and so minimally the studs should be replaced. As others have said, the turnbuckle bodies aren't all that expensive in the scheme of things and so ideally should be replaced. Jeff  

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ARCH INSTALLATION TIPS

• Measure where you think The arch feet are going to land on the back of the boat, pick either the front or back leg landing positions and measure the span. Check for backing plate/nut access at these positions.
• Assemble the arch laying on dock and slide the sides into the bridge evenly until the leg span you measured is Approx 5-6” wider than your goal span. Tape the joints at the bridge using masking tape to stop it sliding further in when you are test fitting.
• Measure the “drop” from where you think the forward legs will land and the aft legs will land and trim the forward legs. Accordingly. I usually leave them a couple inches longer than I think they need to be, and do the final trim once I’m at the mocking up stage.
• Assemble the arch feet and install them, using string to secure them to the arch legs using a rolling hitch.
• Use a block and tackle or a truckers hitch to squeeze the legs together to match the span you are aiming for. No more than 6”.
• Hoist arch into position using topping lift or main halyard  (and two people) and test fit. At this point you can measure exactly how much you need to trim off the forward legs to make the arch fit level.
• If the arch needs to sit lower, once you have it level, you can trim both legs the same amount. Keep in mind that as the arch gets shorter the span will narrow slightly due to the geometry of the arch.
• Once you like the position, mark the feet in their positions using sharpie and lower the arch back to the dock. Release the block and tackle and drill/bolt the bridge. Drill and epoxy/bolt the feet into position.
• Hoist the arch again and check all landing positions on feet one final time. Mark bolt holes on gelcoat and move arch out of the way for drilling. Try to pick the forward or aft feet and do them in pairs, pick whichever set you think will allow you to bolt it down securely then pivot the arch back or forward to do the other pair after (check orientation of arch feet for pivot ability).
• Through bolt all feet and tighten. If fitting to an uneven surface, back fill the area behind the plate with thickened epoxy.
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“Common Sense, Compliance with Laws, Consideration Toward Others” (January 1, 2023)

This agreement shall be effective on the date hereunder by and between the undersigned Owner or Agent of the vessel(s) hereinafter (“Vessel Owner”) described below and Salt Creek Marina, Inc. and The Yacht Rigger LLC located at 107 15th Ave SE, St. Petersburg, FL 33701.

8/21/2023 UPDATE – If a hurricane system becomes a named storm and your boat is in one of our wet slips you MUST move it back to its original berth. The boat is not allowed to stay. The owner is responsible for planning with their preferred captain, or The Yacht Rigger has two captains on staff.

1. Fees: The Yacht Rigger and Salt Creek Marina reserves the right to change its rates upon one (1) months’ notice.

• Monohull DIY Dry Storage will be $900 monthly or $225 weekly, with a minimum of 1 week required. After the first 4 weeks, the rate will increase by $50 per week, for the remainder of the boat’s duration.
• Monohull Wet Slip will be $1,100 monthly or $275 weekly, with a minimum fee of $100.
• Catamaran Wet Slip will be $2200 monthly or $550 weekly.
• Haul / Block / Relaunch – One Time Charge $12 per foot
• Emergency Haulout – $25 per foot
• Short Haul – – – Special Haul to be scheduled by The Yacht Rigger or approved contractor only + $175 contractor fee (includes normal haul out rate)

2. Insurance: Vessel owners must provide insurance with Salt Creek listed as additional insurer on their vessel before arrival. Vessels must always be insured.

3. Hurricane & Summer Storm Season: June 1 – November 30 Haul out boats for storage or DIY work on the hard during this time are required to remove all canvas (including but not limited to Bimini, sail covers, dodgers, e.g.) as well as all sails on the boom or furlers. Remove all moveable equipment: canvas, sails, dinghies from davits, cushions, water toys, grills, biminis, roller furling sails, etc. Canvas and sails must be stored below and not on deck. Lash down everything you cannot remove tillers, wheels, booms.

4. Live Aboard – Wet Slip Only (Yacht Rigger Only Rule): Starting January 1st, 2024, customers may NOT stay on their vessel during electrical refit work or other major modifications or upgrades down below. Due to the nature of these projects requiring major upheaval down below within your living space and the need for our teams to work efficiently. Rigging and “above deck” type work will permit liveaboards. As much as we would love to accommodate liveaboards during this time, it is simply too inefficient for us and expensive for you, the customer. For vessels with excessive items on board preventing efficient work, we will provide on-site storage pods at market rates.

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8. Outside Contractors/ Subcontractors With Management approval (determined individually) contractors may work on a storage vessel for a fee of $40 a day in addition to monthly storage/dockage fee. The owner shall be responsible for informing the office of any subcontractor working on the vessel for any purpose whatsoever. The subcontractor shall submit insurance before any work can commence. Salt Creek Marina and/or The Yacht Rigger reserves the right at its sole discretion to stop unsafe work practices and if deemed necessary to order the offending worker(s) to leave the site at the Owner’s/Skipper’s sole risk and expense.

9. Supplies: All paint including but not limited to, bottom paint, primer or barrier paint, haul or topside paint, varnish or otherwise any paint being applied to your vessel must be purchased through the Boatyard or approved by Management. This policy is for safety and environmental protection purposes of all persons operating in the Boatyard. Paint will normally arrive within 24hrs of purchase.

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14. Parking: Park in the designated parking area. Vehicles should be parked clear of travel lift path, not in storage areas, on the seawall or blocking boats. Salt Creek Marina and/or The Yacht Rigger is not responsible for vehicles that are damaged by equipment or conditions in the yard

15. Regarding noise outside of the scope of work not being completed, i.e., radio/stereo volume, please be respectful of neighboring boat owners’ tenants.

16. Salt Creek Marina and/or The Yacht Rigger is not responsible for any theft or loss of items left on or around the vessel.

17. The yard takes no responsibility for accidents, injury, or death to any persons in or working within the yard at any time. All people wishing to enter the boatyard for any reason do so at their own risk.

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• Owners are not permitted to test engines, run water for AC or other purposes while on the hard. All electricity and water shall be for the sole purpose of working on their vessel and disconnected when unoccupied.
• There are to be no mobile AC / Heater Units or Refrigeration Units to be run on the hard.
•  No unfurling of sails will be permitted at any time, under any circumstance.
• There is to be no hot work, flame cutting, welding etc. to be done in the yard.
• Jack stands and blocking may only be used and moved by employees of Boatyard.
• Boatyard reserves the right to move vessels when needed without permission or notifying owners.
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Any modifications outside of these rules will be determined individually by Management. REMEMBER THESE RULES & REGULATIONS ARE FOR EVERYONE’S BENEFIT. PLEASE HELP KEEP THIS BOAT YARD A CLEAN & SAFE WORKPLACE. ** Salt Creek reserves the right to change these rules at any time.

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Sailboat Rigging Tips from a Pro

• By David Bond
• Updated: May 12, 2021

Clive Strickett is a rugged guy, so it takes strong arms to winch him aloft to the masthead. But that’s exactly where you want him: eyeball to halyard sheave, looking for problems. He’s a veteran rigger with a keen eye and a background in ocean racing on the competitive Maxi circuit. On the island of Lanzarote, where I first encountered Strickett, he has a reputation for detail.

We were on the dock at Marina Lanzarote in a fresh breeze of about 20 knots. It was sunny and warm, the sort of weather you’d expect when you’re about 400 nautical miles off the coast of Morocco. These Canary Islands, of which Lanzarote is the farthest north, are a staging area for boats embarking on a trans-Atlantic crossing.

Strickett had just been lowered to the deck of a Bavaria 41 by the boat’s skipper after checking the spreaders, and was now shaking his head. Problems. There are always problems. This time it was mismatched metals. “It’s rare to find a boat that has nothing wrong with it,” he said.

Never mind the Atlantic—the first leg of the trip from the United Kingdom and Europe to the Canaries can be brutal on gear. And that’s before the 3,800-nautical-mile downwind crossing to the Caribbean. It’s wise to have a guy like Strickett check your rig before you leave. “I’ve been doing this for a few years now,” he said. “I might see a problem that the owner missed. They weren’t looking for it, or weren’t looking where they should have been. 

“You never know what’s going to happen on boats. Even on new boats,” he continued. “A friend of mine had a new catamaran, a big one, with a carbon-fiber mast. One of the genoa clutches ripped right off the mast. Brand new boat, right from the factory. We had to get the OK from the factory in France to make a repair. We fixed it, and he crossed the Atlantic.” 

Minor rig problems compound quickly under pressure. Strong winds funneling through these volcanic islands can mimic trade-wind sailing, but that doesn’t mean that every boat is ready for the crossing. According to Strickett, safety lies in the details, and he points out where to look for potential problems in your rig. Here’s what Strickett is looking for as he inspects a spar, from top to bottom.

Masthead: “Be sure the sheave axles are secure. Sometimes the holes elongate or even crack. And then halyards can get mixed up. One boat that came through here from Tenerife was using the wrong halyard. They were using the spinnaker halyard instead of the genoa halyard. When I went up to look at it, the sheave box was completely gone; the rivets were all loose. The holes had elongated because the halyard was at the wrong angle. They didn’t even realize it. It’s tough to see what’s happening aloft when you’re on deck.” 

Working down the mast on a fractional rig, there might be additional sheave boxes fitted for internal halyards. “Make sure all the rivets are tight. Anything fitted with bolts or rivets should be double-checked.”

Spreaders: “Inspect the spreader tips; make sure they’re OK and there’s no corrosion. Whenever you get stainless steel and aluminum together, there’s corrosion. One fleet of charter boats here had put 8 mm stainless bolts into the aluminum spreaders with no protection. Now the spreaders are corroding—the holes get bigger and bigger. But not only that, the spreader was already weakened by putting big holes in it to begin with.”

Shrouds: Broken or damaged wire rigging is the most common problem. “Most cruising boats use 1-by-19 stainless wire. Inside, one strand can let go, then another. When you get up to four broken strands, the wire gets weaker and weaker, and eventually fails. If you’re underway and that happens, then you have a big problem.”

You also don’t want extra weight aloft. “Some people use Dyform, or compacted wire, which uses triangular-shaped strands around a core. If you compare a 10 mm Dyform wire to a 10 mm 1-by-19 wire, the Dyform is stronger. I once changed a 12 mm 1-by-19 wire to a 10 mm Dyform wire. It’s the same strength, but I saved some weight aloft. 

“You can’t take anything for granted,” he continued. “There was a boat getting ready to head to the Mediterranean from here, which is a long slog to windward. He was all ready to go. Just as an afterthought, the owner had me look over the rig. Good thing. I found some broken wires in the forestay. The whole mast could have come down. So have a close inspection just to make sure there are no broken wires, and that the terminals don’t have any cracks in them.”

Boom: “Once again, closely inspect the rivets. Loose padeyes on the boom get looser and can easily rip right out. The same goes for the gooseneck fittings. Check every bolt, every rivet for the slightest elongation of the holes or any loose rivets. I can’t emphasize that enough. The padeye is usually secured to the boom with 5 mm Monel rivets, but those can pull loose after a sharp pull like a jibe. They can get yanked right out of the boom. Then what? As insurance, I usually remove the 5 mm rivets and replace them with 6.3 mm rivets, which are the largest you can use. If you’ve had a big jibe and the boom hits a V1 (lower shroud), it might break or bend the boom. We fix booms at our engineering shop. They’ll straighten it, put a patch on, weld it and then paint it. That makes it strong enough. New booms delivered to Lanzarote come from France, and the delivery fee alone can cost up to $3,500.”

Read More: Check your Boat’s Rig

Turnbuckles: “Some people don’t like to tape turnbuckles; they like to see what’s going on with them. Fair enough. I wouldn’t tape it all the way closed though. Just a little tape around the split pins so that they don’t grab a sail or your ankle. On one boat that I inspected, the guy had taped up the whole thing. When we untaped it, it was all manky, which means pretty disgusting. The dirt will always get in somehow. If it’s all taped up like that, you can’t oil or lubricate it. I tell people: Now and then, service your turnbuckles. Take some turns off the turnbuckle. Make sure it’s clean and then put a little Teflon gel on it, or some MolyKote grease. Then tighten it back up. 

“When you haven’t done it for some years,” he added, “they seize up and you can’t undo them. Especially a small turnbuckle. They’re chrome-plated over bronze, and when you put a big spanner in there and turn it, it’ll snap. And what you don’t want is for a wire to snap when it’s under load. It’s just preventive maintenance. Do it every six months. It takes only a couple of hours.”  

Headsail Furlers: “On some ProFurl furlers, there are four black bolts that go into the furler: two that hold the cage on and two that hold the plate. On the older ones, the bolts are made of titanium, and they seize into the aluminum. I don’t know how many I have had to drill out. But you have to drill them out properly. If it’s a 6 mm bolt, first you drill straight down the middle of the hole with a 3 mm drill, then with a 4 mm, then a 5 mm, then a 5.5 mm. Hopefully it will come out with the heat and friction. ‘Easy-out’ [screw extractors] don’t work. These things are seized together. Even heat doesn’t work.”

Chain Plates: “I inspected one boat with the chain plates so loose, they were actually moving. You could see where they had scratched the paint around the hull. Down below, look carefully at the chain plates. Make sure there’s no cracking in the hull, no movement on the bolts. You can see where a bolt has bent a little, or if it’s been pulled up or down. You’ll see little scratch marks on the hull or the bulkhead.”

Mast Step: “There’s a fine balance between the shrouds being too tight and too loose. There was a good-size catamaran that left here and got into some rough seas, rolling around. The shrouds were too loose, and on one roll, the mast jumped right out of its mast step. It was just for a moment, but in that moment, the mast went overboard.”

With the inspection on the Bavaria completed, as we walked up the gangway toward the marina office, I had one last question: “If something breaks underway, can a rigger or a boatyard be held responsible?” 

Strickett answered, “Sometimes. We have a basic form that says something like: ‘Rig checked. All found to be in good condition at the time of inspection.’ And I sign it. So as far as I’m concerned, everything was OK when I signed it. But if along the way, say it blows up to 40 knots and the crew still has their spinnaker up and the mast comes down, well, they might try to come back to us. So in my opinion, it boils down to this: If you’re not up to sailing the boat, then you shouldn’t be there. You just never know what’s going to happen.”  

David Bond, a regular contributor to CW, is a writer, teacher and cruising sailor currently based in Germany.

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316 stainless steel lockable filler cap marked "WATER". Features a cover flap with O-ring seal to minmise the ingress of saltwater, dust, etc into the keyhole. Made in Australia from high quality marine-grade stainless steel. Takes...

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