test of yacht

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How to measure your yacht’s stability

• julianwolfram
• July 27, 2020

Naval architect Julian Wolfram uses some able hands, scales and maths to explain a practical way to calculate your boat's stability

Measuring, and then adjusting your yacht's stability can affect when you need to reef

Have you ever measured your yacht’s stability?

Adding heavy cruising gear will change your boat’s stability, so it is worth checking, although the names and terms, such as ‘Dellenbaugh angle’ and ‘metacentric height’, might be initially off-putting and leave you flummoxed.

These measures of a yacht’s stability or stiffness – used to compare one boat to another, or modifications that might have done on board – are more reliable than the crude and common ballast/displacement ratio, and understanding them will reveal the impact on your boat of all the additional cruising gear that has been added.

A simple spirit level can be used to conduct your stability experiment. Credit: Graham Snook

Ballast ratio is a flawed because it takes no account of the shape or depth of the keel, or of how heavily loaded the boat is.

Rather than ballast ratio, a better way to assess the stiffness is by dividing the position of her centre of gravity, as measured from the bottom of her keel (known as KG), by her draught, as this takes into account her both her draught and the centroid of ballast on board.

For any yacht built after 2002 the designer or builder will have calculated and potentially measured the KG for the minimum operating condition and probably for the fully loaded condition too.

You will need to induce at least 3° if heel for this to work. Credit: Graham Snook

This data is needed to do the required Recreational Craft Directive (RCD) calculations.

It may also be available for many yachts from before then if the builder or designer was conscientious.

Interestingly, this information has to be provided, by law, for a commercial vessel in the form of a stability booklet and there is no logical reason why it should be withheld from a yacht owner – but that doesn’t mean you’ll get it.

If you want to compare the stiffness of your yachts with others and can’t get hold of the KG, you will have to do an inclining experiment to calculate it.

Strips of wood are used to ensure accuracy. Credit: Graham Snook

An inclining experiment is required for all commercial vessels, including sailing yachts used for commercial purposes, charter and sail training, and is usually carried out, or at least witnessed by, a ship or yacht surveyor.

The inclining experiment yields the metacentric height (GM) which is a primary measure of stability.

Once you have GM then KG can be found using the hydrostatic particulars that are calculated from the table of offsets or the lines plan.

If you can’t get hold of these then you will have to get a 3D laser scan of the boat, when she is out of the water, and a naval architect who has a stability software package to do the calculations for you.

However, doing an inclining experiment is still worthwhile and, on traditional vessels built by eye or for which the lines and hull offsets have long since disappeared, it is the only option for assessing stability.

How to carry out an inclining experiment to check stability

Anyone can carry out an inclining experiment on their own yacht if they wish to check its stability.

It is done afloat, and simply involves moving weight from the centreline towards the deck edge and measuring how much the boat heels as a result.

The weights can be of any sort – jerry-cans full of water, baskets of old chain or the like.

Inclining weight(s) must be large enough to give at least 3° of heel – five large crew should be good for a 12m yacht, the smaller the boat, the fewer people are required. Credit: Graham Snook

I once did an inclining experiment on a 19m ferro-cement schooner with a weight that consisted of a bunch of students weighed on bathroom scales. It worked well.

Traditionally the angle of heel is measured using a pendulum (plumb line attached to a mast) and recording the offset to the side when the vessel heels.

The pendulum is usually damped using a bucket of water or oil.

Nowadays a device known as a stabilograph is often used which is more convenient.

Alternatively, I have used a long (1,830mm) spirit level successfully when the heel angle is between 3 and 6° and I think this is the cheapest and most practical way for a boat owner to give it a go.

Needless to say calm conditions are necessary to get an accurate measurement and mooring lines should be slack so the boat heels in a completely unrestricted manner.

Ideally the experiment should be done in the loaded condition but with the tanks no more than half full.

The crew are ideal inclining weights and six crew will weigh nearly half a ton (and maybe more in some cases!) and they don’t have to be lifted onto and across the boat.

Mark lines each side of and parallel to the centreline close to the deck edges.

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The crew will stand facing the same direction with feet together, one foot either side of the line and their weight evenly distributed on both feet.

Ideally there should be one long line marked with chalk or tape on each side of the boat.

That may not be possible, however, and two or more lines may be needed; in which case you will have to note who stands where, as the product of each weight and its distance from the centreline is needed in the calculation.

Start by weighing each of the crew in turn on an accurate set of bathroom scales.

Then put the long spirit level across the cockpit with both ends supported so it is level.

Note the distance between the points of support (x mm).

You should be on the centreline when you are checking the level.

Get the crew on board and along the centreline to start with.

The heel of a yacht has historically been measured using a pendulum. Credit: Richard Langdon

Now get them all to take up positions on one side of the boat and carefully chock up the end of the spirit level so it becomes horizontal.

Pieces of plywood and plastic packers down to 1mm in thickness can be used as you need to measure to the nearest millimetre how much you have chocked up the end of the level (y mm).

Ideally the heel angle will be between 3 and 6° and you will have chocked up the end of the spirit level by at least 100mm.

Take the average of the values as the best estimate of GM. It should be accurate to 1 or 2%.

Typical values of GM range from about 0.8m for a 6m coastal cruiser rising to 1.5m or more for an ocean-going 12m yacht.

Read about what makes a boat seaworthy here

Wide hulls with little freeboard should have higher values; any significantly below this range should give cause for concern.

Knowing GM allows the Dellenbaugh angle, to be estimated.

The heeling arm is the distance between the centre of effort of the sail plan and the centre of lateral resistance of the hull and keel.

These can be estimated from a profile drawing, showing the keel and sail plan and worked out using known measurements.

Once calculated, for a 12m long boat a value of 12° would be considered stiff and 18° tender whereas for a 6m boat 18° would be considered stiff and 26 degrees quite tender.

For those who wish to learn more about this I recommend reading Principles of Yacht Design by Larsson, Eliasson and Orych.

How to measure the stability of your yacht

First you have to wait for Mother Nature to give you a calm day: any wind on the rigging could skew the measurements and drive you mad while you’re trying to get the level correct.

Also consider where you’ll do the test; while it is possible to do this on a mooring, the shelter of a marina is best for accurate results.

You will need to weigh crew to help with your calculations. Credit: Graham Snook

You’ll also need weight: passers-by, friends or relatives will do as long as they can spare you 10 minutes.

If not, jerry cans of spare fuel and water, sails, dinghy and liferaft will be needed.

The bigger the boat, the more weight you’ll need. You’ll also need a spirit level – the longer the better.

If it isn’t long enough to go across the cockpit seats of coaming, use a flat bit of wood long enough to span the gap.

1. Marking and measuring

You need to mark the centreline. Credit: Graham Snook

Marking the centreline on deck, we used masking tape, but a pencil or chalk line would do the trick. Then tape another line parallel to the centreline on deck, remembering to allow room for feet on the outside of the line.

Measure the distance from the centreline to the deck line. Use this measurement (d) to mark a second line on the opposite side. The last measurement you will need is the distance between the supports of your spirit level (x).

2. Prepare the weights

Weights need to be lined up along the centreline. Credit: Graham Snook

Next weigh your helpers or equipment to act as weights – a set of bathroom scales is ideal for this, whether for people or heavy objects. 
Slacken your mooring lines so they don’t affect the way your yacht heels.

Line your weights on the centreline mark and ensure the spirit level is showing your yacht is lying flat in the water. You have to remain on the centreline in the cockpit.

3. The experiment

You need to average the GM figures for both calculations. Credit: Graham Snook

Now move your crew or weights until they are over the deck line; people should stand with one foot either side of the line, weights should be piled up as best as possible. Now pack up the end of the spirit level to bring it level again, then take a note of the thickness of the packing to the nearest millimetre. Repeat the experiment with the weight on the opposite side. Finally, average the GM figures from both calculations.

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• Boating Safety

How to Test a Boat Before Buying

• By Dean Travis Clarke
• Updated: October 1, 2004

Comfort, looks and price are starting points in boat shopping, but no purchase should even be considered before you complete these five sea-trial tests. We test boats for different reasons than a potential buyer would. Mostly, we want to see if a boat has any idiosyncrasies that might get a less-experienced operator into trouble. In other words, we do some of the things our fathers told us, “Don’t you ever do that!”

A prospective buyer should perform some of the same tests we do when taking a boat out for a sea trial:

Safety This is a biggie. Most performance-safety issues concern turning. Conduct this test with no passengers and only after hooking up the red safety lanyard we call the kill switch. In open water, check to see that no other vessels are nearby. Sit down and brace yourself. With your engine trimmed for porpoise-free running at about 30 mph, crank the wheel hard over.

Does the boat power through the turn smoothly, or does the prop lose its “bite” or blow out, dumping speed? If the boat surges and bolts in this maneuver it’s a sign of a poor match among hull, drive system and prop.

Also, some straight inboard vessels can suffer from rudder stall, meaning when you turn the wheel hard over, the boat starts to turn and then just plows straight ahead. This usually means the rudder is poorly designed, and creates turbulence rather than channeling water.

Finally, idle forward, turn the wheel hard over, and then push the throttle to the wall. Some poorly designed boats lay over so far on their beam that water pours over the gunwales. Not good.

Low-Speed Control Things you should be aware of include the following: In which direction does the stern swing on an inboard when in reverse? Most only back up one way. Can you change direction when powering in reverse? Even some stern-drives, when in reverse, lock into a turn and won’t alter direction until you remove the throttle. These factors aren’t cause to instantly reject a boat, but you should be aware of them.

Hull Integrity This is no longer a common problem in American-made boats, but it’s worth a quick check. When out on your sea trial, look for a wave or create one. Then drive over the wave and listen for bulkheads squeaking when you land. After, look around for screws that might have popped loose.

Tracking Ease Center the wheel at idle speed so the boat travels straight, and then take your hands off the wheel. Some boats simply cannot track straight, so you must constantly correct the yawing motion. These boats will become annoying real fast.

Systems Check Ensure that every mechanism on the boat is operational. Does the bilge pump jettison water? Operate the stereo and the CD changer, and make sure all speakers are functioning. Check every gauge, running light and courtesy light. Flush the head, and run the fresh and raw water.

Written Documentation Note anything not operating on paper, and insist that it be operational before closing the deal. It’s easier to get it fixed in the sales line than the service queue.

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Yachting World

• Digital Edition

Is this the best way to test a yacht before you buy?

• Will Bruton
• November 20, 2023

Chartering the type of yacht you are thinking about buying may be the perfect way to test a yacht works for you before you make the leap

A typical first charter holiday, perhaps on a production boat in Greece or Turkey, holds a special place in most sailors’ memories, even if they go on to own their own yacht and sail further afield. A charter gives a taste of the responsibility, freedom and possibilities that owning a yacht might unlock.

The yacht you hire, though, is rarely what you’d choose to own. Charter yachts are often built with mass appeal in mind, packing in berths and cabins, and rarely geared for performance or living aboard full time. However, chartering the model of yacht you are seriously considering buying is very worthwhile, and something many don’t even realise is possible.

Swan is one company which offers charter as a ‘taste’ of ownership. Nicolò Telese, charter manager, says: “Chartering a Swan allows the client to explore a variety of destinations, but also is a way to start the sailing journey. Some of our owners start by chartering a Swan to then build their dream yacht.”

Spending a week or more on board can help you evaluate whether a yacht will fit your needs in the long term, and help specify it to suit.

Nautor Swan offers charter of yachts from 45-130ft across a range of models, both racing and cruising, in locations including the Mediterranean and Caribbean. Photo: Maurizio Paradisi

Changing customers

Victor Jeunemaitre, Outremer’s commercial director, notes that in a changing market inexperienced customers are putting less time into their decisions when commissioning builds. “As a company building high performance catamarans , it’s important to us that customers understand what they are ordering,” he says. “It is not purely transactional at all.

“Ultimately, our relationship extends well beyond delivery, so we want it to be a good relationship, and that means ensuring an Outremer is right for them, both when they sign the cheque and when they are halfway around the world. In some cases, customers have ordered on the basis of chartering another brand of catamaran a couple of times, but the adventure they have planned is much bigger.

“We find that even a good test sail highlights clearly how we are different to most catamaran builders on the market, but also what we are not. For example, we actively encourage a relatively simple specification, while others are keen for owners to specify many options. Our hulls are narrower than most. They are preferences not only leaning towards performance, but also because we know that a good bluewater adventure is often underpinned by a boat that is relatively easy to maintain far from home.”

Photo: Robin Christol/Outremer

Outremer does not have a dedicated charter operation, but instead relies on an ever-expanding network of loyal owners who charter to those that want to try before they buy.

“We don’t have yachts permanently available for charter, instead we direct customers to existing owners who perhaps charter for a few weeks a year. We have a wonderful family of owners who love their yachts.

“A little unusually, charters on an Outremer are always with a skipper on board, partly due to the performance they offer, but that’s a great opportunity to learn and immerse yourself in the boat and how it all works. Particularly, it’s an opportunity to get the boat going fast and to really see what it is capable of.

“Charter can also be invaluable once the contract has been signed to help with final specifications and to get you used to the boat before you even own your own.”

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Thorough evaluation

A similar case is made by Stuart Abernethy, X-Yachts GB’s general manager, based in Hamble. He explains they go to great lengths to encourage a charter:

“We say to serious prospective buyers that we can take them out for a few hours on the Solent, but to understand what an X-Yacht is about, a charter makes for a comprehensive chance to see if it is what they are looking for.

“Our offer of being able to charter at the yard in Denmark means a customer can see yachts in build and then experience a week aboard. It’s also invaluable for shaping the specification later. Also, a charter in Denmark does not always get perfect conditions, which is actually good; you get to see the yacht in the real world.”

X-Yachts Denmark’s charter operation is geared towards prospective buyers rather than the general charter market, meaning that the latest models are available.

The company also offers charters in Greece, which gives current owners the chance to sail somewhere different, or to experience a different model as larger X-Yachts are available.

“In general, the ideal would be to charter prior to purchase and then once the order is placed in order to help specify the yacht. In each case it’s going to make the customer so much more informed about what they are buying.”

A chance to experience sailing with pro crew. Photo: Oyster Yachts

Invaluable insights

Fiona McCarthy spent several years as a general charter broker, but now heads up the Oyster Yachts charter operation. Those considering buying an Oyster often charter first.

“Clients who charter with us that are thinking about buying are generally at two different stages. Either they are thinking broadly about buying a yacht, or they are about to sign –or have perhaps just signed – a build contract with us,” she says.

A charter presents an opportunity to evaluate the reality and what they might like to do with the yacht, as well as get a week or more of insights from a professional captain.

“I had a client quite recently that was considering buying an Oyster with a view to doing the Oyster World Rally. However, their sailing experience was limited to sheltered waters, so they chartered for two weeks in the Caribbean. It gave them the chance to sail in stronger winds, with some offshore conditions, while learning a lot from the crew about the size and model of yacht they were planning to order.

“They left able to make a much more informed decision,” says McCarthy.

For other clients it’s an opportunity to sail a larger yacht than they have before, and prove to themselves they’re up to handling a bigger yacht. “One client chartered a 575. They spent the whole week actively sailing, improving their boat handling skills and by the end of the week were sailing her on and off anchor; helping them make the step up to a bigger yacht,” she adds.

“Also, when it comes to stepping up to a fully crewed Oyster like the 885, charter can demonstrate how a yacht with entirely separate crew accommodation provides the privacy they seek, giving an experience of what the dynamic will be like on board.”

Those chartering with a view to buying are aiming to get a lot out of their time; it is not just a holiday. McCarthy says that getting the most out of it is down to sharing as much information as possible.

“The more you tell us, the more we can plan a charter that’s right for you. We’re well versed in matching the right boat, the right crew and the right itinerary to a prospective purchaser. One real advantage is that our crew know the yachts they run very well, so they have lots to pass on and are passionate about what they do and are happy to share it.”

Magnus Tallqvist ordered an Outremer 52 after chartering multiple catamarans to compare

A try before you buy case study

Magnus Tallqvist recently took delivery of the first Outremer 52, but his journey to signing the build contract involved a lot of chartering to learn exactly what he wanted.

“We were originally monohull sailors, with a 40ft Saare here in Sweden – a great boat. But with a plan to sail further in warmer climes, and eventually to circumnavigate, we started to look more broadly. That included chartering catamarans.

“What really opened our minds to the idea was an article about the Outremer concept, though it would in fact be a while before we sailed one. We started by chartering through Navigare Yachting, who owned quite a lot of different types.”

Tallqvist set up charters in a variety of locations for one to two weeks. “We sailed Lagoons, Nautitechs and Catanas, each for a week or more, often off season. As soon as you are living aboard you start to really learn and figure out if you can see yourself aboard long term. Some of them simply wouldn’t go well to windward.

Less than perfect weather can actually be a positive as it’s a more realistic experience. Photo: Outremer

The Nautitech Open 40 however was a good compromise of space and performance.

“Some had stowage high up in each cabin, which isn’t up to holding the volume or weight you would have when on board long term and easily breaks as the boat gets into heavier weather. On one we found that when it rained the cockpit got soaked because of the way the roof was moulded. These are all things we wouldn’t have learned from a day sail.”

Tallqvist and his wife were weary of hearing existing owners’ views of why their choice was the right option. “Very few people, having spent so much money, are likely to call themselves out for making the wrong decision, or to highlight faults with what they have chosen. There is no perfect yacht and so much about what you choose is down to you personally.

“The Outremer is geared to performance, not internal volume, nor is it as luxurious as many other catamarans in terms of kit on board, so it too is probably not the right yacht for everyone. While the Outremer we ordered was in fact hull No1, we made sure to sail the 45 and 51, finding a builder that made something that was right for us. We had confidence the 52 would be as good or better.

“For anyone thinking about buying, I’d really encourage them to charter as it’s a lot of fun and you learn so much along the way. See it as part of the process. The range of what’s available on the market is huge and it’s hard to differentiate and figure that out without putting the time in to get it right.

“A boat show is a somewhat artificial environment in that sense and, having now sailed quite a few catamarans, there are some I wouldn’t take across the Atlantic. A charter gives you an idea of the range of the market in terms of quality and the level of confidence they do or don’t inspire.”

If you enjoyed this….

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• Apr 29, 2020

How to Test Drive a Boat or Yacht You Want to Buy

By: Richard Crowder

Taking a test drive on a boat you want to buy is always a thrill and often a bit nerve-wracking. Having a plan and knowing ahead of time what you want to accomplish will serve you well in the ultimate enjoyment of your powerboat in the years ahead.

By the time you're ready to test drive a boat, you will hopefully have spent time on board with the people in your life that will be on board ninety-nine percent of the time. That normally means just yourself along with perhaps your spouse, your best boating/fishing/watersport friend, and/or your immediate family.

You should have already determined that the general layout and purpose of the boat , its amenities, seating and/or sleeping and/or entertainment facilities are sufficient and accommodating for the needs of this immediate group that will time on board with you. If any of these items are not suitable, then it’s no use wasting your time or the seller’s time going for a test drive.

In addition to the above, you should also have determined that you are satisfied with the structural soundness of the boat’s construction by means of a hull survey from a recognized and qualified marine surveyor. You should also have determined that you are also satisfied with the boat’s mechanical and electrical systems by means of a mechanical inspection by a recognized and qualified marine technician. You should also have checked with your insurance provider to determine under what conditions they will insure the boat.

In other words, by the time you actually go for your test drive, you should know that all the features and conditions of the boat are acceptable for the price being asked, and that if the test drive is acceptable to you, that you will go ahead with the purchase. Based on the pre-determined features and condition of the boat, you have agreed with the seller that if the features operate as expected on the test drive, and if the boat operates and handles as described by the seller, you will go ahead with the purchase following a successful test drive.

This also means you have pre-arranged how you will pay the agreed price following the test drive. The test drive should be the last item on your boat purchase checklist . If all the other items mentioned above are not in place and pre-agreed with the seller, then you will be wasting your time and the seller’s time by engaging in a test drive which, depending on the complexity of the boat, can be very time consuming.

So now, finally, the boat is in the water and you and preferably only of your boating companions climb aboard. I am recommending a maximum of one other person come along for the test drive. The more people on board with you, the more difficult it will be to concentrate on achieving your objectives of properly assessing the boat. Ask the person with you to listen and observe carefully on your behalf in case you later forget anything and need help remembering details.

The only time you may want more for the test drive is if you normally have that many people on board when operating the boat. And this would only be if you are concerned that the quantity or arrangement of the seating may be inadequate, or that the boat may not perform properly with that many aboard, i.e. to pull up waterskiers or wakeboarders or to get onto plane and cruise at a reasonable speed.

You will have hopefully asked the seller beforehand not to start the engine before arrival so it is cold when you get aboard. Only you and the seller should get aboard and tell anyone else to stay on shore for the moment. Before touching anything else, access the engine compartment and check that the engine is indeed cool to the touch. In the case of an outboard, remove the cover.

Check for any signs of oil or water leakage or any indication it has been recently wiped clean. If an inboard or sterndrive, check the bilge area and note the condition and cleanliness. Check the oil level and condition on the dipstick if a four-stroke engine. Assess the seriousness of any other visible anomalies as indicated on your mechanical inspection results.

Be assured there is sufficient and current safety equipment on board as required by law. Turn the batteries on (if on a switch) and run the blower (mandatory on all but outboard powered boats) for the required two minutes prior to starting the engine. Once the engine is started, check for smoke or a film of oil or gasoline on the water behind the boat. If you see any, make a note and check with a technician as to probable cause and remedy.

Now, with the engine warming up, check the function of all switches on the dash to ensure all pumps, lights, horn, accessories, etc. are working properly. All required safety items at least must be working properly before you will be able to use the boat. Check that all instrumentation and navigation electronics are working properly. Any repairs required for any electrical malfunctions could prove costly. Throughout the test drive, make notes of any problems for later reference.

Now anyone else you brought along can help you untie, cast off, and get aboard. The seller may request to drive and control the boat initially especially if you are unfamiliar with the size or type of boat or the body of water. This is good as you now have an opportunity to observe the seller’s actions and reactions and to ask lots of questions.

Take this opportunity to observe the accuracy of the instruments and to “feel” the boat’s reaction to the water conditions as well as to listen intently for any untoward hull or mechanical sounds. These sounds may include banging, rattling, squeaking, or groaning from the hull and scraping, grinding, clunking, ticking, or vibrations from the engine or drivetrain. All of your senses should be on full alert. Do you smell anything you are concerned about?

When you get the chance to drive, sit in the driver’s seat and relax, observe, and think for a minute. Is the seat comfortable? Can I see forward through the windshield? Can I see out the sides and out the back? Does the steering wheel feel to be in a comfortable position? Can the seat and/or the wheel be adjusted to my liking? Is there too much reflection on the windshield from the dash? Can I easily observe the instrumentation? Do the engine controls fall readily to hand?

Now stand up. Can I stay standing comfortably between the steering wheel and the seat? Can my hands still comfortably reach the wheel and the controls? Can I still see the instrumentation? Can I still see out forward, side, and aft? If there is a forward flip-up seat bolster, does it offer proper support and fit me effectively? Do any of the fixed or canvas enclosures restrict visibility?

Now sit back down in the driver’s seat. Ensure there is no other boat traffic close at hand in any direction. Test the trim system for the drive that it is functioning properly and its action recorded on the trim gauge if any. Slowly move the controls from neutral into forward at idle. There may be a very brief clunk or grinding noise that is expected from cone clutch or engaging gears depending on the drive system, but going from neutral into forward should not create a sudden lurch. If so, the idle speed may be set to high or there could be another problem.

Ensure that the drive unit is fully trimmed down and once underway at idle observe the handling of the boat. Is the steering free but not too loose, and not too much slack on-centre? Then move the throttle slowly forward and repeat the above. Does the throttle move freely? If lots of water around you is available and while at slow speed, move the steering wheel slowly lock to lock. Is the steering smooth and easy throughout the range? Are there any noises like clunking sounds from the drivetrain?

Now point the boat straight ahead, ensure that there is no boat traffic close by and that your passengers are seated and prepared for the next step. Proceed to move slowly but firmly to full throttle and move the boat up onto plane. Does the engine respond positively to full throttle application and accelerate the boat smoothly? Do you need to apply trim tabs (if the boat is so equipped) to assist in getting up and onto plane? Can you properly see ahead while the boat is coming up onto plane?

Once you are up onto plane, throttle back until you find a comfortable and economic cruising speed. This is usually the minimum speed that will hold the boat onto plane without accelerating and without dropping off plane and causing the bow to ride too high.

At this point you may choose to trim up the drive until you feel the hull is running at an efficient angle. You may have to add throttle to hold the boat onto plane and/or you may want to add a bit of trim tabs to bring the bow down. It’s called “finding the sweet spot” and it may take some time after you actually own the boat to experiment and find the most efficient and most comfortable cruising speed and boat attitude. The point is though, are you satisfied with the cruising speed and the attitude (running angle) of the boat? This is where you will be spending a considerable amount of your time aboard.

Until this point you have hopefully been running in a straight line to properly assess the boat’s performance on plane and its optimum cruising speed. Now you want to assess the boat’s performance under normal usage involving different manoeuvres. Check all around to make sure you have no nearby boat traffic and, assuming you have reasonable and acceptable water conditions for the size and nature of the boat, start making long sweeping turns in both directions. Does the boat respond smoothly? Is it holding the angle of the turn or is it slipping or jerking? Is the steering easy to work with and not hard to move? Do you have good visibility throughout the turns?

If the water you have so far been running is representative of the conditions you would normally expect when you own the boat, then you have assessed how the boat handles in terms of noise, wave handling, and comfort and whether that is up to your expectations. If the water so far has been smooth then continue those sweeping turns back into and through your wake to assess the boat’s handling of rougher water conditions. You need to do this coming from both directions into your wake and preferably at different angles too.

Now straighten the boat out again and, as long as the water conditions allow it for your safety and you are experienced enough to do so, slowly take the boat up to full throttle and top speed. Listen and observe to determine that the boat is operating as it was designed and without over-revving, ventilation of the propeller, or exhibiting any signs of hull instability.

Now you can slow down and head back to dock. While at cruising speed and if at all possible, run straight broadside to any prevailing wind and waves to assess the rolling or tilting of the boat and whether the result is acceptable. Along the way, you can also assess the operation of the entertainment system, navigation electronics, depth and/or fish finder, etc. If it is a waterski or wakeboard or wake surf boat, check out on board electronic aids as well as optimum wakes at optimum towing speeds.

Once you get back near to the dock, with the boat at rest, move the controls from forward into neutral and then into reverse and back through neutral again two or three times to assess that docking, which involves these movements, can be accomplished smoothly. Once tied up with the engine turned off, check the bilge area and around the engine and drive unit for signs of water, gasoline, or oil. Check the oil dipstick again for quantity and quality. At this point you should check that the outboard or sterndrive trim works throughout its range, including the trailering position, and properly records this range on the trim gauge.

Now you can examine the condition of the upholstery, any canvas, storage compartments, etc. Check the operation of all additional accessories you may have missed on your initial inspection including pumps, water systems, VHF radio, bilge alarms, livewells, refrigerators, toilets, and in the case of cruisers, all galley appliances, electrical systems, generator, anchor windlass, thrusters, washdowns, etc.

Ensure you know how to work these items and where the controls are located, and where tables, support posts, and spare cushions may be stored. Also ask for any manuals for the boat and its accessories, as well as any additional keys or fobs, remote controls, etc.

If all of the above meets or hopefully even exceeds your expectations then proceed to complete the purchase. Congratulations. You are now a boat owner.

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How it´s done – a Yacht Test

• May 29th, 2019
• On Location

Do you have a monthly subscription for a sailing magazine? I mean, not your regular click on no-frills-sailing.com (of which I am very grateful and proud) but I mean the printed issues of the well-known yachting magazines. I do not have but only because I “have” to have those magazines because of my job. It´s a weird fact but in times of digitalization and the decline of printed “real” stuff the sailing magazines are still around and some of them are enjoying a wide range.

The last days one of these magazines, Europe´s largest yachting magazine, the German “Yacht”, was conducting a big and costly test. As I am part of the Beneteau dealer´s network our newest member of the fleet, the Oceanis 46.1 was selected to take part. Our fleet has been joined by a Bavaria C45 and the Hanse 458, comprising a three-boats test. Jeanneau couldn´t provide a boat for the test as well as Dufour. So I was very excited to being part of this venture and witness such a big test of the 46-feet-class first hand.

The aim of a sailing yacht test

First of all, my aim of this article is neither to convince you dear reader that the Oceanis 46.1 is the best boat of them all – we all know that yachts are always a compromise between so many things and each boat or brand may have strengths and weaknesses in one way or the other. My aim is to show you how the “Yacht” Magazine was conducting this 3-day-test so that you may gain some insight in how it´s done. If you are interested in the very test of Hanse vs. Bavaria vs. Beneteau, you might get a copy of the issue of “Yacht” when the article is published in a few weeks time.

I was keen on getting to know what the purpose of this test was. As the “Yacht”-crew was telling me, it was to show how each boat performs in a broad variety of different angles from which the team was looking onto the boats. Of course, the performance under sails was one major part, sure, but they also looked at the interior, took extensive measurements of all aspects of the boat like berths-sizes, headroom and so on, they had a specialist coming one day who was solely looking at electric installations , one for engines and power generation, one for the interior and building quality and so on. So, as the editor-in-chief told me: “… that the reader may in the end get a broad and full picture of what the boat´s character was.”

Let´s go sailing – a three day yacht test

As the two other boats arrived, we met on the jetty very early that day: Sailing time! There was a good chunk of wind coming in from the West and the photographer of “Yacht” was happy about a perfect lighting situation. That was the first thing I´ve learned: The expenditure in team-size by the magazine. Where other press-dates with tests which I´ve done so far had been done by one or two persons, “Yacht” was arriving with a full complement of 6 people! The team was lead by “Yacht”´s editor-in-chief Fridtjof Gunkel and Michael Good, two very experienced sailors and maybe the spearhead of German yachting journalism.

The boats went out of the marina and off we went. We started with having Fidtjof Gunkel aboard who was taking the helm and appeared to me very introvert and concentrated when he was steering the boat. The other two boats had been manned by another “Yacht”-editor each and we sailed on for one or two hours. The program was easy: Running downwind for a while, the luffing to extreme close hauled and going upwind again. Fridtjof didn´t take any notes but judging from his occasional comments he was clearly completing a multi-staged check with testing the boats on the various points of sail.

When we were preparing the test occasion we decided to hire pro-sailor Tim Kroeger to act as sailing counselor for our boat because we knew that – of course – each of our “contenders” would be also trying to stage a perfect performance for their boats. That meant that on the Bavaria a Danish well-known Elvstroem-pro was accompanying the crew and on the Hanse the Sales Director himself was commanding the vessel. For us, Tim Kroeger was the perfect choice: Not because he is a world-class sailor, but because he is one of the few pro-sailors who understand the production boat market.

As he was putting it: “Production boats will never have the performance of a thoroughbred racing yacht. They are not intended to. Most if not all of the people who own one of these will ever take these boats to their limits – but I think it is important to show what these boats can do and where their limit is set.” This in mind, we were knowingly fitting our Oceanis 46.1 with standard Dacron sails and an in-mast furling mainsail: “It´s this configuration that is sold primarily. People may dream of high performance laminate-sails but reality is that most of them are sailing standard sails.”, says Tim. And we agree: Putting on high-end sails may have meant nicer pictures for the magazines and surely a better performance but would it provide credible and useful information for the readers?

Elaborate testing

So we sailed up and down the whole day. The due process of the test was interesting to observe: After nearly a full hour at the helm, one of the three editors would call by VHF the rib to come in. Seconds later a fast outboard boat dashed from abaft and he would leave the boat. Again, five minutes later the rib arrived back with another editor of “Yacht” boarding our boat with a wide grin in his face saying: “Here I am, let´s sail!” And again, one hour of sailing.

The procedure was interrupted occasionally by the VHF announcing the lead photographer´s instruction that all boats may be lining up in a determined order so sail on a determined point of sail for a couple of minutes alongside: Time to shoot the cover picture. That was the most exciting part of it all, having Bavaria and Hanse in two arm lengths sailing close by. Harder was the part to match our speeds, because both boats did have higher quality sails with the Hanse bearing a performance rigging with a higher mast and much more sail area . Nevertheless, we managed to do it and I am sure the article will later be bristling with great pictures taken that day!

It was also interesting for me to observe how the boats behaved on different points of sail and how the hulls went through the water. Whereas the Hanse is undeniably a very good performing sailing boat upwind (especially with her high powered rig and adorable laminate sails) the Bavaria did maintain a considerable performance under battened furling-main. I could clearly sense the differences between these three boats – upwind- and reaching-optimized boats, full internal volume vs. sleek and chic design, wide open low transoms versus narrow beams. You rarely get to see this in real life that often.

The photographer did an amazing job as well! He was helming the rib dashing in between the boats and seconds later he would jump aboard to take tons of pictures of the boat, details of the sails and rigging only to leave and steer the drone humming over our eyes minutes later. The other day they winched him up high in the mast so that he may take pictures of the boats from bird´s eye perspective just to see him crawling the engine room and sails locker for another detailed shooting of the boat´s properties. A tough job but he was smiling all the time, always ready for a quick joke. Great guy!

In the end, we sailed next to each other back to port after an exciting 7 hours day out sailing. It was both thrilling (as Fridtjof and Tim were trying to provoke our Oceanis to broach – but failed, causing a hearty praise for the sailing abilities of our yacht) and interesting to witness how a yacht test was conducted. And that was only just the beginning – we´ve had two more days to come! On the second day (which I couldn´t attend because I test-sailed another arrival to our fleet, the brand new Oceanis 30.1 they conducted the testing under engines and – as the wind dramatically dropped – light wind sailing with Gennakers . Third day was spent almost solely at the jetty with the crew measuring all berths, cabins and looking at the internal details of the boat. Amazing.

Can a magazine´s yacht test be helpful?

So, in the end, I really do not know what the outcome of this three-day test will be. But will the article help a future owner to decide for which yacht he should go? I think yes and no. As Fridtjof was saying: “The article will try to paint a full picture of the general package of the boat.” For sure, a certain objective assessment of the boats can be assured by the fact that three editors tested by their own and discussed their findings. In terms of decision-making, such an article is indeed very helpful because a test like this, with a six person-crew working three full days to gather all sorts of information must and will cover a great range of items.

But as Tim Kroeger told me: “In the end each buyer or owner-in-being comes with his own set of demands. He dreams his own dream, he brings with him his own set of skills and this makes his boat a different one from maybe another client.” In this matter, a yachting magazine´s test can just be one step. “Buying a boat is a process”, says Tim: “Clearly, magazines provide help but sailing the boat by himself and getting a feeling for how it is sailing, how it is behaving in harbours and – of course – if you are feeling comfortable with its interior can only be found out by physically visiting the yacht: Either on a boat show or, best, when sailing by yourself.”

We conclude the three-day session with a cold beer on the jetty and congratulate ourselves for the perfect weather situation and – at last – for three days of fun whilst sailing our yachts. I am sure the outcome will be a great article and I will most certainly hold this very article very dear – now knowing what efforts had been taken to execute this test, how many people worked for three days (and days to come in the office) to gather information, shoot great pictures and crawled the boats to provide their readers with a proper test. Plus, for myself, I learned a lot for my own yacht tests which you, dear reader, may be experiencing in my articles to come as well.

You might also find interesting to read:

How it´s made: A life jacket for children

Tim Kroeger on yacht racing and how to tackle it

Finest aluminium yachts made in Germany

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Anchor Tests: Bending More Shanks

Exploring the effects of snatch loads on various anchor designs..

Photos by Jonathan Neeves

In the first part of this series on anchor-shank strength ( PS , April 2013 ), we examined how the shanks of anchors that supposedly met the most stringent industry standards could theoretically bend under loads that a typical cruising sailboat could encounter. This month, we wanted to demonstrate how that might happen in a field test. But first, a recap.

In a nutshell, last months article explained how existing anchor tests are aimed primarily at commercial anchors, which have much thicker shanks than recreational anchors. We also lamented the fact that most anchor makers are not widely publicizing the details of materials and construction, and that they seldom offer useful performance criteria to help consumers make an informed purchase.

How can the shank of a supposedly high-tensile anchor bend? Our practical work on loading anchors ( PS, May 2012 ) indicated that a worst-case scenario is a sudden dynamic load, often called a snatch load, a short, sharp loading of a well-set anchor at 90 degrees to the set direction. We found that this type of snatch-loading can be caused by wind gusts and the sailboat yawing and/or sailing at anchor-even without waves.

Add wave action to the impact of a sudden veering wind, and we have perfect conditions to produce high dynamic side-loads on an anchor shank. PS contributor Joe Minicks graphic description of the freak storm that severely damaged his boat in Greece ( PS, April 2013 ) is a good example of the kind of severe, localized weather conditions that can impart extreme loads on an anchors shank.

Another instance when an anchor shank might be exceptionally loaded is on retrieval during strong winds or steep chop. Shortening scope during retrieval further compounds the problem. As pointed out in last months article, the difficulty in breaking out the modern, new generation anchors, poses another opportunity for a shank to bend during retrieval.

The angle of pull matters. Based on our anchor reset test (PS, February 2013), we know that when subjected to a series of gentle tugs at an angle to the set direction (up to about 150 degrees), most well-set modern anchors will slowly pivot around in the seabed. In that test, we noted that new anchors with convex, V-shaped sole designs like the Spade, Kobra, and Anchor Right Excel seemed to encourage pivoting. We also found that once most anchors are loaded at angles greater than 150 degrees, they will pull out, somersault, and reset.

Our tests on rode loads and anchor veering were preliminary fact-finding research, not comprehensive tests. This test is no different. Its principal purpose is to challenge the existing test methodologies and establish a pathway toward future testing.

Based on the findings in our previous work, we concentrated our study on a specific group of anchors and specific type of load. The anchors are regarded as super high holding power (SHHP) anchors-anchors that have demonstrated high holding capacity in a number of published tests. The load was a sudden, snatch (or dynamic) load applied at a 90-degree angle to the direction each anchor was set.

unless otherwise noted

What We Tested

For this test, we narrowed the field to a cross-section of anchor types, in a size recommended for a 35- to 40-foot sailboat. The steel anchors weighed around 35 pounds, and the alloy anchors weighed about 18 pounds.

The anchors used were a 17.6-pound Fortress FX23, a Danforth-style anchor fabricated from a 6060 alloy aluminum; a 35.2-pound Spade anchor, a concave-plough design made of 316 stainless-steel (also available in aluminum and galvanized steel); a 19.8-pound Anchor Right Super SARCA, a convex plough design made from galvanized steel (350 megapascal); a 35.2-pound SARCA Excel, a convex plough design with mild steel fluke and a high-tensile steel (ASTM 514) shank; and finally a 17.6-pound prototype aluminum alloy (5083) SARCA Excel, with a thicker shank than the steel version.

Both Anchor Right and Spade offer anchors in different materials. For Spade, the choices are steel (ASTM A572GR50), stainless steel (316), and marine alloy (AG4 or 5083). Anchor Right uses the ASTM 514 in its steel Excel anchor and 2205 in the shank of its stainless-steel anchors. It is upgrading from 5083 to 6061 in its alloy anchors.

Of the materials used, 316 stainless steel has the lowest yield strength, followed by the aluminum alloys. The ASTM 514 galvanized steel is approximately 70-percent stronger than the 316 stainless steel.

We chose to test five ostensibly reliable anchors generally representative of the styles that are on the market. The anchors are of markedly different designs and materials, except that two of the anchors are identical in design but fabricated from different materials.

Why these anchors? First, we are familiar with these anchors. We have tested all five in a number of seabeds under varying conditions. Our tester has used an alloy Spade, the Excel, and Fortress as primary anchors for a number of extended cruises. All five anchors set exceptionally quickly, and all, when well set, can require some patience to break out.

Why no CQR? Why no Bruce? Why no Delta? Because of the time involved-not to mention the inherent variables of this test-we limited the test to designs that we suspected would have a higher rate of shank failure. In simple terms, we wanted deep-setting anchors with thin shanks. We wanted results. Our intention is to use this data as a baseline for future tests of shank strength in a more controlled setting. Once weve established the loads under which an anchor shank can bend in the field, we have a better picture of what loads to apply in the lab.

The basis of the tests was to try to simulate realistic conditions as closely as possible while still making it practical to carry out the test in a reasonable time frame. For more details on how the tests were carried out, see the accompanying How We Tested.

All of the test anchors pulled out under loads of about 4,500 pounds, except the Fortress, which pulled out at slightly over 3,000 pounds.

The shanks of all anchors, except the high-tensile SARCA Excel, were bent to varying degrees. Based on the results, the galvanized SARCA Excel, with its Bisalloy 80 shank, did very well, and we expect similar anchors that use the same shank material, such as the Manson Supreme, to do just as well.

How did they do? The accompanying photographs (see Testing Snapshot) tell the story:

Not only was the shank of the prototype 5083 alloy Excel bent, but the fluke also suffered severe distortion.

The shank of the Super SARCA was bent near the fluke.

The Fortress shank was mildly bent, near the middle of the shank. The Fortress flukes showed no sign of distortion.

The Spade shank was bent and twisted, and the shank slot in the fluke showed some minor distortion.

We ran more tests, including one on a 22-pound Excel anchor that has a steel shank with a yield strength of 350 megapascals (MPa)-commonly found in cheaper anchors. It bent as expected, further illustrating the value of a high-tensile steel shank. (It should be noted that this anchor was not designed for these loads, and that Anchor Right uses the higher-grade ASTM 514 in its larger anchors.)

The Fortress fluke has a relatively low profile from the side and will have little, or low, resistance to a load at 90 degrees. It effectively cuts sideways in the seabed like a knife, and this might explain the lower load required to pull it out. An implication is that a Fortress will swivel with a change in wind direction much more easily than an anchor with higher-profile flukes that offer greater resistance to pivoting, such as a Supreme or Excel.

Although we do not know the precise load at which each shank bent, we do know that the Fortress shank bent at less than 3,000 pounds. Considering the limited amount of distortion, the shank looks to have bent close to the pull-out load. It seems the shank bent at or near where it emerged from the seabed when set-suggesting the seabed offers support to a shank. (More on this below.) Based on its own and independent tests, Fortress was confident that repeated tests and a deeper set would produce greater pull-out loads.

It was possible to straighten the Fortress shank for temporary use or for use as a spare, but we do not advise this as a permanent solution. This type of deformation, called plastic deformation, permanently weakens the metal. In this case, Fortress replaced the shank under its lifetime guarantee.

The failures of the SARCA and Spade shanks were not severe, suggesting they bent near the 4,500-pound pull-out load.

The severe and catastrophic failure of the alloy Excel suggest that it began bending well below the 4,500-pound maximum, although it still managed to sustain the same amount of load before releasing from the seabed as the steel Excel and stainless-steel Spade.

It would have been possible to straighten the SARCA shank for temporary use, but the complex bend in the Spade shank put it beyond repair.

Our experience with the Spade points to the advantage of a removable shank: The shank is typically an anchors weak point, but a removable shank can be easily replaced. Out of curiosity, we are considering replacing the bent hollow shank with one cut from -inch ASTM 514 steel-a material that has held up well in our testing.

The results indicate that there are two lever actions at work on most of these anchors-excluding the Fortress. There is a lever action parallel to the seabed, trying to re-orient the fluke to the direction of load. This lever action, best seen on the SARCA, stresses the horizontal axis of the shank. All anchors, except the galvanized high-tensile shank Excel, showed a degree of failure in the horizontal.

A second lever action loads the shank on the axis perpendicular to the seabed, effectively trying to twist or roll the anchor onto its side. Both the Spade and the experimental alloy Excel show distortion on this vertical axis.

The vertical portion of the SARCA shank has some support from its roll bar, and this might explain why we found no distortion of the vertical section. The Fortresss straight shank is stressed in one dimension only, having no vertical bend or L shape to its shank.

Benefits of Burying

By comparing these field tests to the controlled, graduated loading tests that we carried out for the April 2013 article, it seems likely that a deeply buried shank will be less prone to bending. Last month, we demonstrated in lab testing that a 33-pound Excels half-inch ASTM 514 shank will start bending under a load of about 1,000 pounds if that load is oriented at 90 degrees to the shank.

This 1,000-pound failure is only about 25 percent of the load applied in our seabed test, which did not cause any failure to the same shank material. We partially attribute this discrepancy to the fact that the directions of load in the two separate tests were not identical; but it also seems likely that the seabed supports and reinforces the shank in the field test. In addition, our graduated load test in the lab applied the load for a much longer period than our seabed test, allowing more time for plastic deformation to take place.

If, as we suspect, the seabed offers support to a buried shank, then a poorly set anchor-an over-sized anchor, for example-might be more prone to shank failure than a well-set anchor with a deeply buried shank (assuming the shank dimensions are roughly equal). Likewise, an anchor with a weaker shank might better resist bending by virtue of its superior ability to bury itself.

The tests were too crude to present any accurate rankings, but it did reinforce our conviction that anchor shanks can bend in real-world circumstances-and that there is a clear difference in yield strengths. For the sake of reporting, the amount of bending, from none at all to severe, was the following: the galvanized Excel (ASTM 514), stainless-steel Spade, Super SARCA, Fortress, and aluminum-alloy Excel.

The results clearly illustrate the significant advantages of a well-engineered shank of high-tensile steel. The failure of the stainless-steel Spade also reinforces our point that using the same template for different material necessarily imparts variability in shank yield strength. (We would not have expected to see the same degree of a failure in the much stronger galvanized or even the aluminum version of the Spade, which has a beefed-up shank to account for the difference in tensile strength.)

Interestingly, even though the Super SARCA failed in our tests, it and the galvanized SARCA Excel (along with larger sizes of the Fortress) meet Classification Society (CS) requirements for holding capacity and for proof testing as super-high holding power anchors. Based on the Spades technical specifications, we would assume that its galvanized version, if tested, would also meet SHHP requirements.

Thus, our findings further support last months conclusion that the proof testing-as it is currently conducted-has limited value to the recreational marine industry, and that buying an anchor based on this stamp of approval might engender a false sense of security.

As mentioned, we think the problem of shank strength is most acute with those anchors that have super high holding power. The relentless pursuit of high holding capacity has produced better anchors, but unfortunately, there hasn’t been a commensurate increase in shank strength. There are better materials than the ones used in many of our tested anchors-ASTM 514, 6060 alloy, and 2205 stainless-and these should be an option. We have good design, now we need better material choice and fabrication.

• Anchor Right
• West Marine

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Thanks for this! Very interesting and informative.

Just a note on terminology: All the anchors you test are alloy anchors. I realise that it’s possible to deduce what you mean when you say “alloy” by reading between the lines in your ninth paragraph. But if I find the article via a web search, or search for an item of interest such as “Excel”, your misuse of the word is a bit frustrating: any comment you make about “the alloy anchor” requires digging around to see how you have chosen to redefine it.

Minor quibble on the report. Great article overall.

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How To Operate A Yachts Anchoring System

SUPERYACHT BASICS

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One of the fundamental skills a deckhand or a crew member will need to know is how to drop and anchor and how to retrieve an anchor. These large yacht have heavy duty windlass anchor systems, and learning how they operate is key to your safety, to not damaging them and to safely securing the vessel to anchor.

The below video will go into great detail the common anchoring systems and protocols for dropping anchor.

How to drop anchor on a yacht, Superyacht Crew basics.

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How to Test a Tachometer on a Boat? – 4 Easy Steps

Written by J. Harvey / Fact checked by S. Numbers

A well-calibrated tachometer can be any boater’s gateway to unlocking the full potential of their marine engine, but what if you suspect it’s not giving you the real rotation speed? No worries, this guide will teach you how to test a tachometer on a boat.

It reveals steps and methods that have consistently worked for me. Overall, you should give them a try if you suddenly find that your boat tachometer is not working.

Tachometer troubleshooting is also not that hard if you already know the order of steps you should be taking. Let’s begin!

Table of Contents

Ways to Test a Tachometer on a Boat

1. perform initial assessments and diagnostics., 2. locate the tachometer’s signal source then check the signal voltage., 3. inspect the tach’s wiring., 4. conduct bench testing., still not getting the right reading.

Analog tachometers typically use analog meters and signals, while their digital counterparts use electronic displays and digital signals that are generated by an electronic circuit.

How you’ll check either one will be dictated by the tachometer type.

• Analog tachs may involve checking for needle movement and voltage fluctuations.
• Digital tachs may need you to verify data inputs and signal processing.

How to Test and Troubleshoot a Boat Tachometer

Whenever I encounter a tachometer not reading correctly, my first instinct is to always give it a thorough assessment first. For one, there could be a multitude of reasons why your tachometer is always reading zero.

You can start by remembering and following these first few steps:

• Determine the tachometer’s type – Is it analog or digital? Knowing this exact information will only aid you in effectively resolving the issue.
• Checking for power – Is it receiving the power it needs to generate a good signal? Ensure that’s the case by checking if the instrument lamp on the tach is working. A lighted lamp indicates a good power supply.
• Inspect the ground connection – Examine the ground connection of the tach and make sure it’s secure without loose or damaged connections.
• Check for tachometer issues – I’ve had a tach that stops working while driving, while a more common problem is that it’s no longer able to read RPMs (i.e. consistently displaying zero).

There’s also the issue of erratic figures every time you read a tachometer. For example, it might show 900 RPM at idle and 3,600 RPM off at full speed.

• Identify where the tachometer receives its signal. In certain boats, it comes from the alternator. Other vessels may have the signal being generated by a magnetic pickup near the flywheel.
• Before you test tachometer signal with a multimeter, see if the voltage between the positive and negative terminals are correct or not. When measured with a multimeter, it will be 12 or 24V DC.
• Next, disconnect the signal wire from the tachometer and set your multimeter to AC voltage.
• Afterward, start the engine and set it to idle. Check for voltage between the signal wire and ground. It should give readings of around 3 VAC if the signal is functioning as it should.

Getting no voltage? Or maybe the reading is fluctuating significantly? Those are tell-tale signs that you have a problem with the signal source or wiring.

Trace the wiring from the signal source (this can be either the magnetic pickup or alternator) to the tachometer. Be on the lookout for loose connections, damaged wires, or signs of corrosion.

If you do discover them, either repair or replace those faulty wiring yourself or have a professional do it for you. If you choose to go for the latter route, take the time to request a more thorough test on the tach signal wire.

To know if the tachometer is bad, you’ll have to remove it from the boat for bench testing. Once you do, you’ll need a good signal source. For example, a 12V AC power supply has worked for me consistently.

Connect the tachometer and observe its readings. If the tachometer responds accurately to the bench test, it may not be the source of the problem.

If you want to know the normal tachometer reading, note that plenty of boat engines hover at a bit over 3,500 RPMs to 4,500 RPMs.

If you happen to have a Faria tachometer, this video goes over some testing procedures that have helped me in the past as well. It also reveals how a working tach should function if there are no hitches:

Even after checking the wiring and signal source, as well as bench testing, and you still get a bad reading or the tachometer’s still not working, it’s high time to consult a professional marine technician or electrician to handle the job for you.

I don’t mind availing of their services, since they can perform deeper diagnostics, as I’ve mentioned, which may be necessary to solve the issue.

In conclusion, the boat tachometer, that seemingly small instrument nestled within your boat’s dashboard, plays a pivotal role in your boating experience.

It’s not just a gauge that tells you how fast your engine is spinning; it’s a window into your boat’s health, efficiency, and performance. As such, it’s only every boater’s responsibility to know how to test a tachometer on a boat.

The actual tweaks and repairs may be best left to more capable hands, though, assuming you haven’t got the technical know-how to do them.

“My intention from the first day establishing Boating Basics Online is to provide as much help as possible for boaters who want to experience a first safe and convenient trip. So feel free to join us and share your beautiful journeys to the sea!”

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Sun Princess Fact Sheet

Sun Princess is the most impressive, luxurious and stunning Love Boat ever created and introduces an innovative ship platform designed exclusively for the world’s most iconic cruise brand.

With spacious yet intimate venues with more room to explore, Sun Princess debuts new eye-catching architectural elements including The Dome, a groundbreaking geodesic, glass-enclosed structure at the top of the ship inspired by the terraces of Santorini. The outward and suspended Sphere, the namesake of this new class of ship, takes the central Piazza hub of the ship into a new dimension. Guests are enveloped with expansive ocean views and an open concept, inspired to deliver the desired lifestyle of relaxed indoor and outdoor living.

Class:  Sphere-Class

Guest Capacity: 4,300 (lower berths)

Crew:  1,600

Tonnage:  177,882

Builder:  Fincantieri Cantieri Navali Italiani, Monfalcone

Length: 1,133 feet

Height:  200 feet

Breadth:  139 feet

Maximum Speed:   22 knots

Number of Decks:   21

Guest Staterooms:  2,157 total, featuring 80 suites

Accessible Staterooms:  51

Connecting Staterooms:  100

Showstopping entertainment in Technically Advance Spaces

Mesmerizing shows and engaging activities are found all over the ship, highlighted by transformational entertainment venues. The Princess Arena, the most technologically advanced Princess Theater design, has three configurations to maximize sight lines and deliver a truly captivating experience. With a pool by sunlight and a stage for shows by starlight, the glass-enclosed Dome, inspired by the hills of Santorini, features acrobatic performances created in partnership with the renowned Cirque Éloize.

• Princess Arena (Capacity: 990)
• Princess Casino
• Princess Live! (Capacity: 200)
• The Dome (Capacity: 250)
• The Piazza (Capacity: 300)

Extraordinary Experience

Following the successful debut of the first extraordinary experience with 360 onboard Discovery Princess and Enchanted Princess, the next in the series is Spellbound by Magic Castle , in partnership with the famed Hollywood icon. The newest extraordinary experience blends the captivating world of magic with the art of mixology. The unique venue features incredible feats of magic from talented magicians, surprises in themed rooms and theatrical cocktails.

The Greatest Foodie Destination at Sea

Sun Princess serves up 30 inviting restaurant and bar venues with an unprecedented collection of celebrity collaborators, high-end ingredients and culinary experiences. Highlights include Love by Britto, an artistic-inspired dining experience celebrating love, in partnership with Romero Britto; The Butcher’s Block by Dario, in partnership with the world’s most famous butcher, Dario Cecchini; Makoto Ocean, in partnership with Master of Edomae-style sushi Makoto Okuwa; and Umai Teppanyaki, where world-class cuisine intertwines with captivating performance.

Celebrity Collaborations

• Good Spirits at Sea – Rob Floyd, celebrity mixologist
• Makoto Ocean – Makoto Okuwa, Master of Edomae-style sushi
• Love by Britto – Romero Britto, world-renowned artist
• Master Winemaker Wine Tasting – Gerard Bertrand, Master Winemaker of the Year
• Royal Afternoon Tea – Darren McGrady, Royal Chef
• SMiZE Cream – Tyra Banks, supermodel and businesswoman
• The Butcher’s Block by Dario – Dario Cecchini, the world’s most famous butcher
• The Catch by Rudi – Rudi Sodamin, Head of Culinary Arts for Princess Cruises

Main & Casual Dining (included in cruise fare):

• The Eatery (Capacity: 742)
• Deck 6, traditional dining (Capacity: 941)
• Deck 7, anytime dining (Capacity: 664)
• American Diner, Deck 8 (Capacity: 326)
• International Café (Capacity: 20)
• Lido Greens
• Lido Coffee & Cones
• Promenade Grill
• Promenade Ice Cream
• Promenade Slice

Specialty Dining* - includes a fee – some are complimentary with Princess Plus or Premier Package :

• Alfredo’s Pizzeria (Capacity: 88)
• Crown Grill (Capacity: 132)
• Love by Britto (Capacity: 68)
• Makoto Ocean (Capacity: 70)
• O’Malley’s Irish Pub (Capacity: 86)
• Sabatini’s (Capacity: 116)
• The Butchers Table by Dario (Capacity: 88)
• The Catch by Rudi (Capacity: 88)
• Umai Hot Pot (Capacity: 57 – shared with Teppanyaki)
• Umai Teppanyaki (Capacity: 57 – shared with Hot Pot)

Signature & Reserve Collection:

• Reserve Collection Restaurant (Capacity: 180)
• Signature Lounge (Capacity: Flexible)
• Signature Restaurant (Capacity: 124)

Bar Offerings:

• Bellini’s Cocktail Bar (Capacity: 55)
• Cascade Bar
• Coffee & Cones (Capacity: 150)
• Coffee Currents (Capacity: 55)
• Crooners (Capacity: 86)
• Good Spirits at Sea (Capacity: 40)
• Lido Bar (Capacity: 150)
• Sea View Bar (Capacity: 60)
• Sun Bar (Capacity: 150)
• The MIX (Capacity:150)
• The Promenade Bars
• Wheelhouse Bar (Capacity: 70)

Room Service*:

• 24-hour Room Service (*carries a one-time delivery fee or complimentary with Princess Plus or Premier Package)

Family & Kids

Park19, the most engaging family activity zone ever featured on a Princess ship, features nine activities for the entire family to enjoy in a newly envisioned space perfect for fun and sun for all generations.

• Coastal Climb
• The Lookout
• Infinite Horizon
• Hammock Area
• Splash Zone
• Recreational Court
• Jogging Track

Age-appropriate activities abound in the Youth & Teen Centers, designed for guests ages six months to 17.

• Firefly Park Kids Club - ages 3-7 (Capacity: 70) *Parents with children six months to 2 years may enjoy the play area under their supervision
• Movies Under the Stars
• Neon Grove Tweens Club - ages 8-12 (Capacity: 100)
• The Underground Teen Lounge - ages 13-17 (Capacity: 100)

Relaxation and Wellness

In these all-new spaces, guests can recharge by simply taking in the ocean vistas around them. The Sea View Terrace sets the tone at the front of the ship, while the new Wake View Terrace features an infinity pool and unparalleled views. The two-story Lotus Spa and Lotus Salon offer relaxing treatments and services for guests to enjoy any time during their voyage.

Outdoor Spaces for Relaxation:

• Sea View Terrace (Capacity: 206)
• Signature Sun Deck
• The Sanctuary* (Capacity: 200)
• Wake View Terrace (Capacity: 100)

Pools & Hot Tubs:

• 5 Pools – 2 Lido-Deck Pools, Dome (indoor/outdoor), Sanctuary Pool and WakeView Pool
• Fitness Center
• Fitness Studio
• Lotus Salon
• Wellness Studio

Guests will experience an extraordinary retail journey in a transformed space that will include over 25 brands available to cruise guests for the first time at sea. Within the more than 5,800 square feet of retail space, spread over two decks, will be a line-up of more than 200 premium brands from fine jewelry and watches to fashion, fused with an evolving blend of lifestyle and experiential activations.

• Deck 8 features The Breitling Boutique , featuring the first-at-sea Breitling Lounge concept and the latest TAG Heuer boutique design, as well as The Fine Timepieces Boutique , which features a selection of signature timepieces for both men and women from Longines, Rado, Tissot, Hamilton, in addition to pre-owned Rolex watches.
• Within The Beauty & Wellness Boutique on Deck 8 guests will find the world’s top cosmetic and skincare brands, such as Chanel, Dior, Lancôme, Estee Lauder, Clinique, and a curated range of sustainable and organic skincare brands including Comfort Zone, Neom Organics, This Works, Rituals and unisex clean skincare by REN Skincare.

For more information visit: Sun Princess

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Contact information for members of the media

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Phone : 1 661 753 1530 Email :  [email protected]

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Contact us at: 1-800-PRINCESS (1-800-774-6237) or 1-661-753-0000

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Middle East crisis — explained

The conflict between Israel and Palestinians — and other groups in the Middle East — goes back decades. These stories provide context for current developments and the history that led up to them.

An aid ship is en route to Gaza, in a test of a sea corridor for the war-torn enclave

Open Arms members carry humanitarian aid for Gaza in a joint mission between NGOs Open Arms and World Central Kitchen at a port of Larnaca, Cyprus, March 9. Santi Palacios/Open Arms-World Central Kitchen/Handout via Reuters hide caption

Open Arms members carry humanitarian aid for Gaza in a joint mission between NGOs Open Arms and World Central Kitchen at a port of Larnaca, Cyprus, March 9.

AMMAN, Jordan — A barge loaded with food is on its way to Gaza from the Mediterranean island of Cyprus in a test of a possible maritime aid corridor meant to help avert what United Nations officials say is imminent famine after five months of war and Israeli restrictions on aid.

Since the start of the war in October, Israeli attacks in Gaza have destroyed most of its infrastructure , while Israel's restrictions on food and medicine entering by truck have left most of the enclave at risk of famine and vulnerable to disease, according to the U.N.

With aid headed to Gaza, risks remain to getting food to its starving population

Israel says it needs to ensure that weapons are not being smuggled into Gaza. But the European Union's foreign policy chief, Josep Borrell, told the U.N. Security Council on Tuesday that starvation is being used as a weapon of war.

Enter World Central Kitchen , a U.S.-based aid organization founded by celebrity humanitarian-chef José Andrés. The organization has partnered with Open Arms , a Spanish nongovernmental aid group that is using its ship of the same name. The United Arab Emirates provided funding for the food while Cyprus provided logistical help.

While WCK and other aid groups are scrambling to find alternative ways to deliver aid to Gaza because of Israeli restrictions, they have also had to rely on Israeli cooperation to pursue the alternate routes and devise a way to offload pallets of aid.

"The most difficult part, the diplomatic technicalities, already is kind of behind us," Andrés says. "The most difficult part ahead is as we speak, we are finalizing the construction of a temporary jetty."

Five months of intense Israeli bombing added to previous destruction and an Israeli blockade of Gaza since Hamas took control there in 2007 have devastated Gaza's infrastructure, including hospitals, water treatment plants, schools and universities.

Israel destroyed Gaza's airport during a Palestinian uprising that began in 2001 and since October has further damaged what remained of Gaza's fishing port.

Jordan has taken the lead in airdropping aid into Gaza, along with the United States and other partner countries. But the airdrops are extremely expensive, and with ongoing fighting, they are difficult to target and almost impossible to distribute on the ground.

WCK has been providing meals in Gaza since the start of the war, and once it builds the jetty, will unload the cargo onto smaller boats to take the aid ashore to be distributed to its network of 64 kitchens.

Israel approved and inspected the goods that will be going into Gaza. Andrés says they were not allowed to bring in machinery, equipment or the concrete blocks requested for the operation, but the aid organizations are improvising with what they have. Israel bars a large range of goods to Gaza, saying they could be used by Hamas, the Palestinian militant group that rules Gaza.

"We have crews working 24-7 and we are really trying to build this 60-meter [yard]-long jetty that will allow us then successfully, if things go well, to start bringing in humanitarian aid in bigger quantities," Andrés says.

Laura Lanuza, communications director for Open Arms, says it has taken three weeks to deal with regulations, restrictions and logistics after the boat arrived in Cyprus.

The Open Arms vessel, carrying almost 200 tons of food aid to Gaza, is seen docked in the Cypriot port of Larnaca on March 9. Iakovos Hatzistavrou/AFP via Getty Images hide caption

The Open Arms vessel, carrying almost 200 tons of food aid to Gaza, is seen docked in the Cypriot port of Larnaca on March 9.

"We had a huge challenge in front of us trying to make this happen," she says.

Lanuza says each box of food was individually scanned under supervision of Israel's Coordinator of Government Activities in the Territories at Larnaca port in Cyprus to ensure it did not have contraband before it was loaded onto the barge and then the entire shipment sealed.

"We have to be cautious and we have to follow all the protocols that we have in order to have a good end to this," she says, adding there is food waiting at the port in Cyprus for an immediate second trip if the first goes well.

The mission, which began Tuesday, is expected to take several days because of the slow speed necessitated by the heavily laden barge, and the logistics of building the floating jetty.

The organizers said they were not disclosing where on the coast the vessel was planning to land for security reasons.

The barge's cargo — roughly 200 tons of food , including lentils, rice and canned meat — is the equivalent of only about 10 trucks of aid.

The main land entry for aid to Gaza through Egypt has 30,000 trucks backed up waiting for entry, says Ahmed Naimat, a spokesman for Jordan's National Center for Security and Crisis Management.

He says some trucks of Jordanian aid have been waiting in a line for two months for approval to enter.

"Israel's military operations are intended to cut off life to Palestinians — especially for medical and food services," Naimat says.

Israel has blamed delays on U.N. agencies. The U.N. has said Israeli forces have not just delayed approval for truck convoys, but turned away key aid to northern Gaza and attacked its staff and facilities .

Jordan, which has a peace treaty with Israel, has accused the Israeli military of deliberately targeting its field hospitals in Gaza. Israel has said it was aiming at Hamas militants.

Humanitarian aid for Palestinians on the Gaza Strip is loaded onto a Jordanian Air Force aircraft in Amman on March 10, amid ongoing battles between Israel and the militant group Hamas. Ahmad Shouraa/AFP via Getty Images hide caption

Humanitarian aid for Palestinians on the Gaza Strip is loaded onto a Jordanian Air Force aircraft in Amman on March 10, amid ongoing battles between Israel and the militant group Hamas.

Jordan and other countries have continued airdrops into Gaza in a desperate effort to save at least some people from starvation despite the considerable risks. Last week, Gaza health authorities said five people were killed when a parachute on one of the pallets dropped by a Jordanian partner failed to open.

The United States insists it is pressing Israel to allow in more aid by land but has announced it plans to set up a floating dock to deliver aid by sea in bigger ships. The project is likely to take several weeks and still faces severe obstacles in widely distributing the aid.

The war has left most of Gaza's 2.3 million people homeless and the U.N. says a quarter of the population is malnourished. The U.N., quoting Gaza health officials, says at least 23 children have already starved to death.

Malnutrition is particularly acute in northern Gaza, which has been largely cut off by Israeli forces over the last five months and where UNICEF says 1 in 6 children under the age of 2 is acutely malnourished.

Last week, the United Kingdom's foreign secretary, David Cameron, told the House of Lords that the amount of aid allowed into Gaza last month was half of that received in January, adding that the patience of Israel's allies with the humanitarian crisis was "wearing thin."

World Central Kitchen plans to use its existing distribution network and to increase to about 100 the number of kitchens it is operating in Gaza to prepare and distribute meals. Andrés says so far the aid organization has provided more than 35 million meals there.

"It will be very easy to solve if we will be able to open other entry points around Israel that can double or triple the amount of trucks reaching Gaza every single day," Andrés says. "But for various reasons this is not happening and this is out of our control."

"The necessity and the urgency are so great that the worst thing we can do is not try new ways," he says.

• World Central Kitchen
• Israel-Hamas war
• Israel-Gaza war
• Palestinian aid
• humanitarian aid
• Jose Andres