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In Kenya, Seeing the Sites by Dhow

The wooden boats, whose triangular sails create a distinctive silhouette, are used up and down the East African coast.

By Ginanne Brownell

Reporting from Lamu, Kenya

There’s just something about a lager at sunset.

As we headed toward Pate Island by dhow, the traditional sailboat that is ubiquitous up and down the East African coast, the captain popped open my Tusker, a Kenyan beer, and passed around beef and vegetarian samosas. I settled back on large overstuffed white cushions, munched on the savory treats and reflected that life was always better with a sundowner.

Just about a half hour earlier at Manda Bay , the posh rustic resort on Manda Island where we were staying, I had donned the colorful plaid kikoy wrap I had bought the day before and my partner put on his swim trunks so we could wade out into the Indian Ocean and climb aboard the dhow, which comfortably carried the captain, his mate and the two of us.

Dhows have sailed the Indian Ocean for thousands of years, their triangular sails creating distinctive silhouettes. Made of woods such as teak and mahogany, the vessels vary in size from small fishing boats to spacious versions more than 100 feet long.

As for Manda Bay, the Italian musician Bruno Brighetti originally opened it in the 1960s as the Blue Safari Club. It was sold to Kenyans more than two decades ago. Now its thatched roof bungalows, with wooden bed swings on the porches, line a vast, private sandy beach (beachside rooms are $540 a night for single occupancy).

It takes about an hour to fly from Nairobi to the tiny Manda Island airport, then porters carry your bags out to the dock for a 30-minute boat ride to the resort on the island’s northern shore. Everyone from wealthy South African tech executives to members of the British aristocracy have stayed here over the years. (Lady Viola Grosvenor, a sister of the Duke of Westminster — who owns a good portion of London’s Mayfair neighborhood — married the son of the Kenyan owners in 2022, and part of their wedding celebrations were held at Manda Bay).

Mention a trip to Kenya and most people probably think “safari.” But staying at Manda Bay has a whole different vibe. In addition to dhow cruises around the mangrove-studded archipelago — which includes Manda Island, Lamu Island, Pate Island and the smaller islands of Kiwayu and Manda Toto — there are relaxed days by the pool; snorkeling on a nearby reef; day trips to Lamu Town and the village of Shela, both on Lamu Island; sailboats and kayaks to borrow; and offers of inshore and deep-sea fishing expeditions.

Aside from the fishing, we had just about done everything else during our week here when we decided to take a sunset cruise. During it, we asked to visit Pate Island, home to the ruins of the village of Shanga, which archaeologists say was first established in the eighth century.

Our boat captain explained that the island is most accessible at high tide, which we would miss. Plus, by the time we arrived, the sun would have set, and finding the village in the dark would be very difficult.

But as we sailed near, he pointed out some features and regaled us with tales about the island. One was the story of a Chinese ship , filled with goods including porcelain, that was wrecked off the coast of Pate in the 1400s. Descendants of the survivors are said to still inhabit parts of the island, and the silversmiths in Lamu Town insist that the porcelain set into their necklaces and earrings are fragments that still wash ashore today.

As we watched the pinks and oranges of sunset dance across the shifting cerulean blue sky, we admitted we weren’t heartbroken to miss the Shanga site because we already had seen some ruins the previous evening.

On the way to a hilltop sundowner on the resort’s property, our guide, a gap year student whose paternal great-grandfather was the renowned Kenyan paleontologist Louis Leakey, had taken us past the remains of Manda Town, a settlement said to have been founded in the ninth century. (There are historic ruins up and down this Swahili coast archipelago, including what remains of the village of Takwa, on the island’s southern side.)

Manda Town now is filled with the remains of stone and lime-mortar buildings, including a mosque’s ornate mihrab, the wall niche that indicates the direction of Mecca. In the 1960s, archaeologists determined that some of the structures included bricks likely brought to the area as ballast in ships from Oman.

Walking around the ruins covered in overgrown prickly vegetation, not far from what our guide said was a 1,000-year-old baobab tree, I imagined what this town had been like at its peak in the 13th century, when about 3,500 people are believed to have lived there.

This stay at Manda Bay was my third trip to the archipelago — and my second time traversing its waters by dhow. On my first visit here, in 2019, I stayed at the Italian-owned Majlis Resort , a property on Manda Island designed in the Swahili architectural vernacular and featuring intricately carved wooden doors and beds (a junior suite starts around $530 a night, depending on the season).

I had taken a day cruise on the hotel’s dhow and had been fascinated to watch the junior captain climbing onto a wooden part of the mast to hoist the sail, which had a woman’s portrait painted on one side, and watched as it unfurled and instantly caught a gust of wind. As I lounged at the boat’s bow — this one had red pillows — we passed jovial fishermen on brightly painted boats who showed off their catch.

After we had rounded the southernmost tip of Lamu Island, we stopped by a secluded beach where I snorkeled, and then had a seafood lunch on a beach dotted with a handful of luxury vacation villas . Since the area first became popular with the expat crowd in the 1960s, Princess Caroline of Monaco , Sting, the actor Dominic West , the Dutch filmmaker Anton Corbijn and the makeup entrepreneur Charlotte Tilbury all have owned or rented properties on the island.

After lunch, we spent the afternoon sailing around the rest of the island, passing the small, serene fishing village of Matondoni, which is known as a center of dhow construction and where both of the dhows I have been on were crafted. Soon enough, as we got near Lamu Town, our tranquillity was interrupted by the hustle and bustle of boats dropping off supplies and passengers at the docks and local children jumping in the water for a late afternoon dip.

The day before, the hotel had arranged a guide for my walking tour of Lamu Town. This community of about 15,000 is the best maintained of the Swahili towns along the East African coast, and includes an Old Town that is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

After visiting Lamu Museum and the Donkey Sanctuary (which cares for donkeys that are ill or too old to work), we headed into the maze of alleyways lined with shops selling goods from locally made fabrics to kiti cha jeuri chairs, wooden seats accented with panels of woven string. We ended our tour in the small market square where fruit and vegetable sellers hawked fresh mangos and avocados while local men in bright sarongs and kufi caps caught up on the day’s gossip.

Shela, a small village on Lamu, is less hectic than Lamu Town and has a more cleaned up feel, with a number of small art galleries, a few upscale boutiques like Aman , which sells hand loomed cotton clothing at European prices, and private homes owned by wealthy Kenyans and foreigners that have been lovingly — and expensively — renovated.

It is also home to the storied Peponi Hotel . Opened in the late 1960s by Wera and Aage Korschen, over the decades that hotel has gained something of a bohemian reputation and its cocktail hour is the place to see and be seen. (After my dhow excursion, I enjoyed a cocktail named dawa — Swahili for medicine — made with vodka, honey and lime.) Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall visited in the 1970s and since then Kate Moss, Sienna Miller and the Obamas have been among those who popped by for a visit.

On New Year’s Day every year, the hotel hosts a dhow race that is a social highlight for both holidaymakers and locals. Our dhow captain on my most recent sail told us he came in third among the 11 locally made boats.

We missed the race though, as we were too busy lazily lounging poolside in wooden swings, watching the world go by.

Come Sail Away

Love them or hate them, cruises can provide a unique perspective on travel..

 Cruise Ship Surprises: Here are five unexpected features on ships , some of which you hopefully won’t discover on your own.

 Icon of the Seas: Our reporter joined thousands of passengers on the inaugural sailing of Royal Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas . The most surprising thing she found? Some actual peace and quiet .

Th ree-Year Cruise, Unraveled:  The Life at Sea cruise was supposed to be the ultimate bucket-list experience : 382 port calls over 1,095 days. Here’s why  those who signed up are seeking fraud charges  instead.

TikTok’s Favorite New ‘Reality Show’:  People on social media have turned the unwitting passengers of a nine-month world cruise  into  “cast members”  overnight.

Dipping Their Toes: Younger generations of travelers are venturing onto ships for the first time . Many are saving money.

Cult Cruisers: These devoted cruise fanatics, most of them retirees, have one main goal: to almost never touch dry land .

(Carolyn Van Houten/The Washington Post)

Inside the massive three-step cleanup of Baltimore’s Key Bridge

The cleanup of the wreckage of the Francis Scott Key Bridge is underway. Hundreds of engineers, workers and divers have rushed to the scene of what some predict could be the most expensive disaster in maritime history.

Using massive barges and floating cranes, crews are clearing the hulking pieces of steel and hunks of concrete that have crippled the Port of Baltimore and spread economic pain locally and nationally.

Experts say the road ahead will be long, dangerous and expensive. One analysis predicted insurance payouts from the bridge collapse could total $2 billion to $4 billion.

The task before the crews is daunting. The waters of the Patapsco River are chilly and inky. Twisted steel could suddenly shift, imperiling workers. There are still 764 tons of hazardous materials on the stranded ship. Those are just a few of the challenges.

So far, crews have removed a 200-ton section of the bridge and opened two small channels near the wreckage to allow limited boat traffic to the port. A third deeper water channel will be opened by the end of April, and officials hope to restore normal traffic by the end of May.

Officials say they will proceed with a three-step plan: clear the 50-foot deep, 700-foot wide shipping channel, remove the bridge trusses resting on the cargo ship and float it away, and clear the riverbed of any remaining debris. Work on each step is happening at the same time.

Step 1: Clear the shipping channel

PATAPSCO RIVER

Cargo ship Dali

Bridge wreckage

SHIPPING CHANNEL

loaded onto

Much of the 1.6-mile span of the Key Bridge fell on March 26, when it was rammed by the 985-foot long container ship Dali, plunging thousands of tons of steel and concrete into the Patapsco River.

Officials plan to clear the shipping channel by chopping up the bridge into smaller pieces that can be hoisted by floating cranes, including one with a lift capacity of 330 tons and another that can pull up 650 tons. The latter is the equivalent of lifting roughly six 737 jet planes.

The wreckage is then deposited on to nearby barges to take to shore.

Officials said it took 10 hours to clear the first 200-ton piece of the bridge.

They have to work carefully. The trusses can shift as they are cut. Teams have to reassess the stability of the wreckage after each piece is removed. Authorities are cognizant that the bodies of four of six construction workers who were on the bridge at the time of the collapse are possibly buried in rubble on the riverbed.

Step 2: Float the 95,000-ton container ship

Bridge trusses

Floating Crane

Chesapeake 1000

Even as they work to open the shipping lane, crews are also turning their attention to the Dali. Maryland Gov. Wes Moore (D) said at a recent news conference that 3,000 to 4,000 tons of bridge trusses are draped across the bow of the ship. They have crushed cargo containers like tin cans.

Officials said they will have to stabilize the roughly 4,700 cargo containers on the ship, some of which are hanging precariously overboard.

The Chesapeake 1000 — one of the largest floating cranes on the East Coast that can hoist up to 1,000 tons — will be used to lift pieces of the trusses after they are cut up.

Officials have said the Dali is resting on the bed of the Patapsco, so it will have to be checked for seaworthiness and then stabilized with tugboats and anchors. Some cargo containers will also have to be removed to refloat the ship before it heads back to port. The crew of 21 sailors remains onboard.

Step 3: Remove the remaining wreckage from the Patapsco River

Remaining debris

Cargo container

“Pancaked”

Embedded in bottom

“Pancaked” wreckage

Divers survey

The final step in the cleanup will focus on whatever debris remains on the river bed, which could possibly include fallen cargo containers, trusses or hunks of concrete from the road that spanned the bridge.

Officials said at a recent news conference that 3D imaging shows a jumble of “pancaked” wreckage on the floor of the Patapsco, which will complicate clean up efforts. They said it is difficult to know where to cut the pieces, and some of the steel and concrete is embedded in the muddy bottom.

Divers are surveying the wreckage underwater and slicing it up with guidance from teams on the surface because of low visibility of one to two feet.

Officials said some of the debris will likely be dredged up with bucket scoops .

Reopening a major American port

Officials have declined to offer a timeline for how long the cleanup will take, but some marine salvage experts said it could last months. Time is of the essence because every day the port remains largely closed, thousands of workers remain idle and millions of dollars worth of cargo cannot be offloaded at one of the nation’s busiest ports.

The timeline for rebuilding the Key Bridge is even more uncertain. The original span, which opened in 1977, took five years to build and cost $220 million. Experts have estimated a new bridge could cost billions and take years to construct.

President Biden has pledged the federal government will foot the bill. He visited Baltimore on Friday.

About this story

Due to the uncertainty of the configuration of the debris in the river, renderings may not be to scale.

Edited by Manuel Canales, Tara McCarty and Matt Zapotosky. Copy edited by Dorine Bethea.