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Rolex Bracelets, Bands & Straps: Ultimate Guide

While it is often overlooked, the strap or bracelet on your Rolex is almost as important as the watch itself. Rolex makes some of the most iconic and recognizable bracelet designs of all time; however, there exist several different bracelet styles in Rolex's catalog – in addition to a small handful of different strap options.

Although the case, dial, and bezel arguably draw the most attention, a Rolex watch's look is not complete without its bracelet or strap. In fact, we'd venture to say that switching out a strap changes the look of a Rolex watch completely. That's not necessarily true with other parts of the watch. Take a look at our in dept Rolex bracelet and straps guides for tips on how to wear and adjust your watch to your needs.

Rolex takes its straps and bracelets very seriously. It is not an afterthought but rather an integral part of its famous timepieces. For instance, the Rolex Day-Date's famous nickname is the "President" in part because of its bracelet. The other part is because it's the go-to luxury watch of countless political and business leaders.

Speak to any Rolex fan and they’ll tell you how comfortable and well-made most Rolex bracelets and bands are. Additionally, not only does Rolex continuously improve upon the bracelets they already have, but the company also introduces new ones. Rolex unveiled a completely new bracelet, the Oysterflex, a few years ago. Such an important timepiece component deserves some attention, so sit back, strap in, and read our ultimate guide to Rolex bracelets, bands, and straps.

Learn How to Change straps and Bracelets on a Rolex Watch Here

The Rolex Oyster Bracelet

We'll start with the most ubiquitous Rolex band - the Oyster bracelet. It may come as a surprise to learn that the Oyster bracelet has been a staple in the Rolex collection for more than seventy years. Rolex first patented the Oyster bracelet design in 1947 and presented it to the public the following year in 1948. However, it's important to note that the origins of the Oyster bracelet date back to the Bonklip style Rolex bracelets that were outsourced to bracelet manufacturer Gay Frères during the 1930s/1940s.

The links of the Oyster bracelet have always been flat and the links have evolved over the years. There have been riveted links, folded links, and solid links. Over the years, the "rivet" style links would be replaced by a thicker "folded" style, before finally being phased out in favor of solid links, which give the bracelet its modern character. However for many, those hollow links from the early days have a certain charm that pure functionality cannot beat.

Evolution of Oyster Bracelet Links

Today, the Oyster bracelet is the most widespread band style found in Rolex’s lineup, available in almost all Rolex collections. It is the bracelet of choice of famous Rolex sports watches like the Submariner and the Daytona, as well as, quintessential dress watches like the Datejust and Oyster Perpetual—and plenty in between. Of course, there are also different sizes of the Oyster bracelet depending on the watch. From the smaller Lady-Datejust timepieces to the larger GMT-Master pilot watches to the jumbo Deepsea dive watches, the versatile Oyster bracelet is always a great fit. 

Oyster Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model

In addition to being the most prevalent Rolex band, the Oyster bracelet is also available in every metal Rolex uses. Additionally, there are Oyster bracelets set with diamonds for some ultra-special Rolex jewelry watches. The last number in any Rolex bracelet code denotes the material.

• 0 = Steel and/or 904L Oystersteel
• 1 = Everose Gold & Steel
• 3 = Yellow Gold & Steel
• 5 = Rose Gold
• 6 = Platinum
• 8 = Yellow Gold
• 9 = White Gold

Depending on the model, the Oyster bracelet comes equipped with a range of clasps. Here's a list of the type of clasp used on current-production Rolex watches with Oyster bracelets. What's the difference between the Oysterclasp and Oysterlock? Aesthetically, the former has the Rolex coronet embossed into the clasp whereas the latter includes the coronet as part of the opening mechanism. Mechanically, the Oysterclasp is constructed with a folding clasp with a cover while the Oysterlock is built with a folding safety clasp, a cover, and a safety catch. The Easylink extension system permits the wearer to extend the bracelet by 5mm while the Glidelock can lengthen the bracelet by 20mm in 2mm intervals. Furthermore, the Fliplock extension links allow the band to be adjusted by an additional 26 mm to fit over thicker diving suits.

Oyster Bracelet Clasp Type

The rolex jubilee bracelet.

Dressier than the Oyster bracelet, the Jubilee bracelet made its debut in 1945 on the then-new Datejust timepiece. Its five-piece links construction includes three thinner interior links flanked by larger links. These two different link sizes are especially noticeable on two-tone Rolesor versions when the interior links are in yellow or Everose gold. It is one of Rolex’s dressier bracelet styles, available in a bevy of metal options and sizes. 

While the overall look of the Jubilee bracelet has remained largely the same since its introduction, a closer look at the links reveals some notable modifications over the years. There have been folded links, oval links, D-shaped links, and solid links. Before Rolex became the vertically integrated giant it is today, the company outsourced the manufacturing of certain parts to specialists—standard practice in horology back in the day. Some bracelets were even manufactured in the USA and Mexico and these bracelets had distinct oval-shaped links. 

The Jubilee has continued as a mainstay in the Datejust collection however, the current steel versions of the sporty GMT-Master II watch are also paired with the Jubilee bracelet.

Jubilee Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model

The Jubilee bracelet is fitted with a concealed folding Crownclasp, which has a Rolex coronet lever that opens the bracelet to reveal folding blades. The concealment of the clasp allows the intricate pattern of the Jubilee links to run seamlessly around the wrist.

The Rolex President Bracelet

The Rolex President bracelet was first introduced on the inaugural Day-Date watch in 1956. Its signature semi-circular three-piece links are instantly recognizable and highly sought-after. Rolex only ever produces the President bracelet in precious metals—never in steel. There are yellow, white, and rose gold, as well as, platinum versions of the President bracelet. For ultra-lavish versions, there are also some diamond President bracelets available too.

The President bracelet is exclusive to all Day-Date watches—Day-Date 36, Day-Date II, and Day-Date 40—as well as some precious metal Lady-Datejust and Datejust 31 models. 

Over the years, Rolex made some noteworthy versions of the President bracelet including the Tridor variety where the center links had a mix of three shades of gold. For a short time in the late 1970s and early 1980s, Rolex also manufactured some President bracelets with bark-like accents on the center links.

President Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model

Similar to the Jubilee, the famous President bracelets are always fastened with a concealed folding Crownclasp. Again, this allows for the beautifully curvy bracelet links to wrap around one's wrist without interruption from a bulky clasp.

The Rolex Integrated Bracelets

In 1977, Rolex presented a range of Oysterquartz watches that ran on in-house quartz calibers. In addition to the distinct angular case shapes of the Oysterquartz Datejust and Oysterquartz Day-Date watches, another fundamental design element of these unique Rolex quartz watches were their bracelets.

True to the fashion of the era, Oysterquartz watches have integrated bracelets that taper towards the clasp. A truly unforgettable look, these bracelets are really fantastic. But even more clever is how Rolex took its classic bracelet designs—Oyster, Jubilee, and President - and revamped them into the integrated style.

The stainless steel integrated Oyster bracelet, two-tone integrated Jubilee bracelet, and solid gold integrated President bracelet were designed close enough to the original bands to bear the same names, yet modified enough to give the Oysterquartz watches their singular style. Many Oysterquartz bracelet codes are the same number as the reference of the watch.

Oysterquartz Bracelet Codes, Style, and Watch Model

Interesting editions of the President integrated bracelet for the Oysterquartz Day-Date watches are those with the intricate pyramid patterns.

The Pearlmaster Bracelet

Rolex launched the Pearlmaster bracelet in 1992 for the Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster watches. The Pearlmaster is Rolex's collection of lavish jewelry watches where diamonds and other gems adorn the dial, bezel, bracelet, or all of the above.

Distinguished by their rounded five-piece links, all Pearlmaster bracelets are exclusively in 18k gold, whether in yellow, white, or Everose. Diamond versions range from a pair of diamond-set links to full diamond pavé styles. 

While the Pearlmaster's home is the Pearlmaster watch collection, in the 2000s, Rolex did make some special edition Day-Date "Masterpiece" watches fitted with Pearlmaster bracelets and 39mm cases. This explains why in some circles, the Pearlmaster bracelet is called the Masterpiece bracelet. However, in the official brand catalog, these Masterpiece/Pearlmaster bracelets for the Day-Date were labeled "Oyster Special Edition."

Pearlmaster Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model

Securing the Pearlmaster bracelet in place is also the concealed folding Crownclasp.

The Rolex Leather Strap

Though Rolex is most famous for its metal bracelets, the Swiss watchmaking giant certainly has made its fair share of leather straps too. In fact, early Rolex models came with leather straps including vintage Oyster watches. The advent of Rolex tool watches — Explorer, Submariner, Milgauss, and GMT-Master — brought about the dominance of metal bracelets in the Rolex Oyster catalog. On the other hand, as the brand’s more traditional dress watch, Rolex Cellini watches have often had leather straps. All current Cellini watches are fitted with leather straps equipped with tang buckles. 

In the early 2000s, Rolex revealed some special white gold Daytona models with colorful dials and even more colorful leather straps. Dubbed the "Daytona Beach" collection, these vibrant chronographs donned pink, turquoise, green, and yellow exotic leather straps.

There is an assortment of modern Rolex watches with leather straps such as the Sky-Dweller, Daytona, Day-Date, and Datejust. The Day-Date 36 with leather is yet another collection of colorful dial and leather combinations, including green, blue, Bordeaux, and chocolate. Completing these leather straps are matching gold folding Crownclasp buckles for easy adjusting and optimal security.

Rolex recently replaced all leather Daytona watches with another style of bracelet, the Oysterflex.

The Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet

The newest Rolex bracelet to join the catalog, the Oysterflex is the brand’s version of a rubber strap. Making its debut on the Everose Yacht-Master in 2015, the Oysterflex may look like an ordinary black rubber strap. But of course, it isn't.

First, Rolex insists on calling it a bracelet rather than a strap. This is because of its unique construction. The proprietary Oysterflex actually begins as a titanium and nickel metal alloy blade. That metal blade is then coated in black elastomer. This clever combination means the Oysterflex is both robust like metal yet flexible like rubber.

Flip the Oysterflex bracelet over and you'll find a patented cushion system that resembles fins. This detail allows for much-needed air circulation to keep the sweatiness typically associated with rubber straps at bay.

When the Oysterflex first launched, it was only available on the Everose Yacht-Master 40 and Everose Yacht-Master 37. The white gold Yacht-Master 42 later followed with an Oysterflex bracelet. The Oysterflex bracelet is now also an option on yellow, white, and Everose gold Daytona models. As previously mentioned, the Oysterflex Daytona watches have replaced the leather Daytona models.

There are three widths for the Oysterflex bracelets and each side of the bracelet comes in six different lengths, which are categorized from letters C to H. Rolex currently only pairs the Oysterflex bracelet with gold versions of the Yacht-Master and Daytona.

Oysterflex Bracelet Codes, Bracelet Wide, and Watch Model

Finishing off the Oysterflex bracelets are matching gold Oysterlock safety clasps along with the 5mm Easylink extension system. However, the newer Yacht-Master 42 includes the Glidelock on its clasp.

The Iconic Rolex Bracelets

As we've illustrated, the bracelet style is such a significant part of the look and feel of a Rolex watch. It's one thing to have certain watch models that are so famous that they are recognizable just by their model names without the need to mention the brand name. Rolex took it further by applying this same icon-making approach to its collection of bracelets.

Rolex bracelets have their own names, distinct design language, histories, and marketing campaigns. No other luxury brand celebrates the watch bracelet as intensely as Rolex does. Drop the names Oyster, Jubilee, and President, and people who know watches immediately know what these Rolex bracelets look like. Similar to cases and movements, Rolex dedicates an enormous amount of research and development to their bracelets too. And it clearly shows when you put one of them on.

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Halloween in Moscow

History of Halloween dates back to the ancient traditions of the Celts. For the first time the name of the holyday is mentioned in the 16th century as a Scottish shortening of the English «All-Hallows-Even», which translates as «The evening of All Saints».

Halloween has gained a lot of popularity in Russia for the past years. This year the celebration takes place on holidays, therefore, you have 3 days to party – from October 31 to November 2! We Heart Moscow has chosen the brightest and crowded with ghosts Halloween parties in Moscow.

FUNNY HALLOWEEN PARTY AT THE «16 TONS»

While different places compete with each other to do the holiday as scary as possible, «16 tons» Club will make the audience feel scary funny.

This celebration is for those who are tired of the ubiquitous zombies and witches that fill all the clubs in the night of October 31. This is not necessarily come in scary costumes – just dress up to have as much fun as possible!

A team of DJs: Miloslav Chemodanov, duo Hollo and Vastashin, DJ Emtsev, Sophie Tronza and their friends will spin your favorite hits and create exceptionally friendly atmosphere until the dawn. Those who cannot prepare to a masquerade at home, can to use the services of two make-up artists directly in the club absolutely free.

The party will start at 23.59 on October 31. Entrance will cost from 500 rubles (€10).

Club “16 Tons” – Presnensky Val St., 6, build. 1.

HALLOWEEN PARTY FROM «ARMA 17S»

The founders of the legendary club «Arma 17» have announced first of five global parties, to be held this year. Halloween Party will last 24 hours and will take place at the territory Trekhgornaya manufactory.

The creative team of «Arma» keep their visitors in total ignorance about the new site for the club. However, the first party will take place on November 1 in the space on the fourth floor of the building on the Rochdelskaya street, and apparently, Halloween from «Arma 17» promises to be quite impressive.

Lineup of «Manufacture» is going to very worthy – Rhadoo and Petre Inspirescu, Resident Club der Visionaere Vera, which is known to work with Ricardo Villalobos, DJ Sleeparchive, Tin Man and the Dutchman Orgue Electronique. Three dance floors are promised – two main and one secret.

Celebrate Haloween with «Arma 17» on November 1, at 23:00 Entrance costs from 1000 rub.

Trekhgorny manufactory – Rochdelskaya St., 15.

HALLOWEEN MASQUERADE RAVE

There will perform outstanding legends of the world electronic scene. The event will be held at one of the largest and comfortable event-site of capital «RAY JUST ARENA».

For total immersion in the atmosphere of the sacraments and illusions, organizers have prepared for you 100 kW of clear powerful sound, laser and light show, psychedelic performance to world stars music.

Headliners of the performance are: The long-awaited, retro LIVE set, Skazi, Avalon Live, Sesto Sento Live, Laughing Buddha Live, Gataka Live], TLN DJ’s team.

Visitors are invited to come in mascaraed costumes. The party starts at 23.55 on October 31. Entrance costs from 750 rubles.

Club Ray Just Arena – Leningradsky Prospect 31, build. 4.

TIM BURTON STYLE HALLOWEEN

Edward Scissorhands or dead bride – only you can decide how to look this night! Frightening makeup, lurid stories and best pictures from the most mysterious director of our time await you in art cafe «The Sea Inside» (More Vnutry). The party will be held in an atmosphere of fear, horror and hell fun. It offers a rich program with watching the best films by Tim Burton, a variety of mystical competitions and tricks.

Professional make-up artists will cast over your unique horror make-ap. After the transformation, you can make a photo of yourself in the real coffin.

Participants of the holiday will remember all the horror stories that scared them in childhood, and Playback Theatre «Paraphrase» will turn these stories into the most sinister tale performed on stage! Playback is a custom theater; its foundation is improvisation and diving into the psychology of the narrator. Actors of «Paraphrase» do not show rehearsed performance, but seek to convey the feelings and emotions of the audience – here and now.

The party will be held on October 31, at 19.00. Entrance costs from 3000 RUB.

Cafe «The Sea Inside» – Peschannaya Alley, 7 (Sokolniki park)

BLACK & BLOODY FRIDAY

Lawson’s Bar decided to combine two holidays – Halloween and Night of sales – Black Friday. The original costume party offers not only monsters, but also the crazy prices for the bar menu!

The Scottish Lawson’s Bar is simply obliged to arrange a truly terrible holiday. the most unusual party Black & Bloody Friday in Lawson’s Bar offers guests unprecedented sale on the bar menu – all the drinks (except single malt whiskey) can be purchased at 199 rubles!

In addition, from October 31 to November 1, staff will turn into horrible monsters, charming Go-go girls will show their performance, the best DJs will play music and professional photographers will shoot the Sabbath. All guests are strongly encouraged to come in costumes to remember this night for a long time.

The party starts on October 31, at 22.00. The entrance is free.

Black & Bloody Friday, Lawson’s Bar – Blagoveshchensky lane, 1A.

ROCK OF AGES. HALLOWEEN PARTY

The most rock ‘n’ roll party in Moscow in honor of All Saints’ Day will be held in «China town cafe» club. Each year the place offers a special theme for Halloween. This year’s party is called the «Rock of Ages», as the famous Broadway musical, and later the famous movie with Tom Cruise in the lead role. The festive atmosphere and the sounds of rock will shake you like a hurricane.

The party will be held on October 31, at 23.00.

Club «China Town Cafe» – Lubyanka driveway, 25/12

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Yacht-Master II

THE SKIPPERS’ WATCH

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II is a unique regatta chronograph dedicated to both experienced sailors and yachting enthusiasts.

A PROFESSIONAL REGATTA CHRONOGRAPH

As in any contest of speed, precision and synchronization are of the essence in a regatta. The Yacht-Master II is equipped with a countdown that can be programmed from 10 to 1 minutes, allowing the wearer to precisely time and follow each race’s specific official starting procedure, which generally unfolds in three stages, marked by sound and visual signals. This flexibility is one of the major assets of the Yacht-Master II; its development was a considerable mechanical challenge. Furthermore, the programming can be mechanically memorized, which makes it possible to start a new countdown without having to reprogramme the watch, for example in the next leg or a subsequent regatta with identical countdown duration.

Once launched, the countdown can be synchronized on the fly to match the official countdown via the ‘fly-back’ reset function of the seconds hand and adjustment of the countdown minute hand to the nearest minute.

RING COMMAND SYSTEM

The countdown’s sophisticated functions were designed to be easily set and operated. The preliminary programming of up to 10 minutes is accessed, and then locked, via the rotatable bezel thanks to Ring Command, a system of interaction between the bezel, the winding crown and the movement, developed by Rolex. Its development, a feat of technical prowess, was made possible by the brand’s complete in-house mastery over the design and manufacturing processes, from the case and bracelet to the movement with its many components.

BEZEL WITH CERACHROM INSERT

The bidirectional rotatable bezel on the Yacht-Master II is equipped with a monobloc Cerachrom insert in blue ceramic. This patented insert is made of an extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramic whose colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. In addition, thanks to its chemical composition, the high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode. The numerals and inscriptions are moulded in the ceramic and coloured with gold or platinum using a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) process.

CHROMALIGHT DISPLAY

The Yacht-Master II is an extremely legible watch in all circumstances and even in the dark thanks to the Chromalight display; the hour markers and hands are filled or coated with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting blue glow – for up to two times longer than traditional phosphorescent materials.

THE YACHT-MASTER II, SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED

Like all Rolex watches, the Yacht-Master II is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This exclusive designation attests that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories and according to its own criteria. These certification tests are carried out on the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

The precision of every movement – officially certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) – is tested a second time by Rolex after being cased, to ensure that it meets criteria for precision that are far stricter than those of the official certification. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2/+2 seconds per day – the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone.

The Superlative Chronometer certification testing is carried out after casing using state-of-the-art equipment specially developed by Rolex and according to an exclusive protocol that simulates the conditions in which a watch is actually worn and more closely represents real-life experience. The entirely automated series of tests also checks the waterproofness, the self-winding capacity and the power reserve of 100 per cent of Rolex watches. These tests systematically complement the qualification testing upstream during development and production, in order to ensure the watches’ reliability, robustness, and resistance to strong magnetic fields and to shocks.

THE OYSTER CASE, SYMBOL OF WATERPROOFNESS

The Yacht-Master II’s Oyster case, 44 mm in diameter and guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness and reliability. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel or 18 ct gold. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only certified Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. It is protected by a crown guard that is an integral part of the middle case. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses .

PERPETUAL CALIBRE 4161

The Yacht-Master II is equipped with calibre 4161, a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. A consummate demonstration of technology, this movement offers outstanding performance, particularly in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.

Calibre 4161 is based on the 4130 chronograph movement, which equipped the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona until 2022. It is fitted with a traversing column wheel and vertical clutch for an instantaneous and extremely precise chronograph start.

The movement incorporates the blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. In addition to resisting strong magnetic fields, this hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position.

The oscillator of calibre 4161 has a large balance wheel with variable inertia regulated extremely precisely via gold Microstella nuts. It is held firmly in place by a height-adjustable traversing bridge enabling very stable positioning to increase shock resistance.

Calibre 4161 is fitted with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor, which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide constant energy. It offers a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

The Yacht-Master II’s movement will be seen only by certified Rolex watchmakers, yet it is beautifully finished and decorated in keeping with the brand’s uncompromising quality standards.

BRACELET AND CLASP, SECURE AND COMFORTABLE

The Yacht-Master II is available on a three-piece link Oyster bracelet that is equipped with a Rolex-designed, patented Oysterlock safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. The bracelet is additionally fitted with the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by the brand. This system allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, for additional comfort in any circumstance.

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Yacht-Master

Sea-Dweller

Yacht-Master

Made for sailing

The waterproof and robust qualities of this model make it the ideal watch for water sports and sailing in particular.

Exceptional legibility

Like all Rolex Professional watches, the Yacht-Master offers exceptional legibility in all circumstances, even in the dark thanks to its Chromalight display. The broad hands and hour markers in simple shapes – triangle, circle, rectangle – are filled with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting glow.

The Yacht-Master 37 and Yacht-Master 40 are the only two models in the Rolex catalogue offered in Rolesium versions: the bezel is fashioned from platinum while the rest of the watch is in Oystersteel. These versions also harbour a turquoise- or red-lacquer seconds hand echoing the colour of the Yacht-Master inscription on the dial.

18 ct Everose gold

This exclusive 18 ct pink gold alloy – created and cast by Rolex – features a slightly stronger colour than traditional pink gold and exhibits subtle cool tones. Its sophisticated and contemporary colour resonates particularly well on watches that combine gold and Oystersteel, known as Rolesor versions (a combination of Oystersteel and gold).

Cerachrom bezel insert

The matt black monobloc Cerachrom bezel insert of the Yacht-Master is made of an extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramic whose colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays, seawater or water that is chlorinated. In addition, thanks to its chemical composition, the high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode. The numerals and inscriptions are moulded in the ceramic and coloured with gold or platinum using a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) process.

Bracelets and clasps

The Yacht-Master’s 60-minute graduated bezel is made entirely from precious metals or fitted with a Cerachrom insert in high-tech ceramic.

Calibres 3235 and 2236 Superlative movements