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Refastening a Wooden Hull   - Season 4, Episode 1 Now Available!

Planking: An Introduction to Methods & Techniques

The most important skills in boatbuilding. It distinguishes the carpenter from the boatbuilder. It’s one thing to glue two boards together for a table top or to nail siding on a house; it’s quite another to keep water out of a seam. This is not to say that boatbuilding involves superior skill; it’s just that a different set of skills is needed, along with the intention of keeping water out.

I work as a boatbuilding instructor at the Carpenter’s Boat Shop in Pemaquid, Maine, and have the pleasure of teaching apprentices some of the vernacular and many of the techniques that go into wooden boat building. Among them, none is more gratifying than the planking process.

In this article, we’ll explore commonly used planking types and examine the strengths and drawbacks of each one. You’ll also learn the rudiments involved in “getting out” (creating and installing) a boat’s planking. It is my hope that this article will help you grow in knowledge and confidence so that you too can try your hand at planking.

Integral to both carvel and lapstrake planking styles, lining off is dividing the hull surface into appropriately sized planks and locations, and then making sure that they look even and fair. By fair, I mean gradual curves that are “eyesweet”: no sharp bends, knuckles, or hitches. Looks matter, and lining off helps to ensure fair plank lines that are proportional to one another and blend well with the overall hull shape. More important, it gives the crew information on how wide to make the planks and what shape they will be.

Many sets of plans for small and simple boats already include lining-off marks, so these need only to be carried from plan patterns to molds and then checked for fairness with a batten. However, if you hope to take on a more advanced project down the road, lining off planking is a skill that you’ll need to add to your repertoire. You can read more on this in WoodenBoat No. 101.

Carvel planking is a common method found on a great variety of traditional wooden boats, from large schooners to classic racing yachts and tiny dinghies. A carvel hull is less fussy to line off than lapstrake because if plank lines aren’t perfect, paint will cover the discrepancies. While it does present challenges to those with limited experience, we’ve found that our apprentices, most of whom have only a few months of boatbuilding experience under their belts, do a fine job of building carvel-planked Catspaw dinghies. Don’t allow a lack of experience to hold you back. In his book The Boatbuilder’s Apprentice, boatbuilder Greg Rössel draws upon the example of a wooden barrel. Barrel staves, analogous to our planks, are laid tightly alongside one another, and taper at the ends. A wooden boat hull is similar, but with a few extra curves thrown in.

Once the hull setup is lined off (or marks from the plan patterns are transferred and faired), planking can begin. Each plank is individually shaped, or “spiled,” then meticulously fitted for tightness on both edges. We will discuss the process of spiling in greater detail later on. When the planks are tight along their edges, a slight bevel is planed along one outer edge to accept cotton fibers that, when driven to a proper depth, will provide watertight integrity. The hull is then faired (planed and sanded eye-sweet), caulked, and painted.

Carvel planking has a great many benefits that justify its popularity. It is effective at keeping water out, is adaptable to a variety of hull shapes, and it is easily repairable when compared to many other planking types. Because carvel planks can be butted end-to-end, shorter lengths can be used.

Lapstrake, or clinker, planking is what many of us have in mind when we think of a small, classic wooden boat. Each plank is beveled where it overlaps the adjacent plank, somewhat like clapboards on a house, adding longitudinal strength and assisting the ribs in holding the hull shape and reducing flex. What’s more, those planks are then fastened to one another as well as to the frames. This interconnectedness allows fewer frames and thinner planking than in a carvel planked boat of comparable size.

Lapstrake planking is especially appropriate for smaller boats where reduced weight is important. This planking method has some peculiarities to contend with that you won’t find in other planking types, one being the “gains” that have to be fashioned along the ends of each plank as it approaches the bow and sometimes the stern, overlapping the plank below. Without these gains, you’d have a sawtooth appearance where the planks join the stem. We’ll discuss how to cut gains later on.

Once clear of the gains, which run 6″ or so aft of the stem, lapstrake plank edges protrude, so no amount of paint will cover a poor job of lining off. Although the plans often have the lining-off already marked on the station mold patterns, you’ll still need to look at the boat and learn to trust your eye in assuring that the plank lines are fair and in good proportion. Lapstrake repair is also a bit more involved than that of its carvel counterpart.

Honestly, though, all planks are a little tricky to repair. Lapstrake-planked boats are a favorite of first-time builders, and for good reason, I think. First, the building jig can be very simple—some lapstrake boats are even built over a single mold. Second, fitting the planks needn’t be as precise as it is for carvel. In fact, in some cases, a plank lap width can be off by almost a quarter of an inch and still be acceptable. Third, there is no need to fair the hull after planking.

Once the planks are fitted, give them a thorough sanding before fastening them in place, and that’s the last time you’ll have to touch them until it’s time for paint. Finally, when lapstrake boats dry out, their seams don’t stand wide open as they do with carvel. This means they require significantly less time to “make up” (swell up in water), if any. This is good news for us trailer-sailors.

Stitch-And-Glue

Stitch-and-glue has gained in popularity lately, as it is such a straightforward process. Kits are widely available, but if you aren’t interested in a kit it is easy enough to buy the necessary plywood, epoxy, and copper wire, and proceed on your own. Predominantly, stitch-and-glue is used to build small boats like kayaks and lightweight rowboats. It consists of cut-to-shape side and bottom panels that are drilled and then wired at intervals in a sort of stitched style. Epoxy is then used to fillet the joints. The wires can be taken out after the glue is cured. Stitch-and-glue is fast and almost as easy as putting a sandwich together. It’s great for a weekend project when you want to get out on the water fast.

Strip Planking

Strip-planking has become a sweetheart of the do-it-yourself boatbuilding crowd, its chief advantage being that all of the “planks” can be the same dimension (usually about 1″ 1″). Planks are nailed to one another edge-to-edge and the strips are alternately fastened to ribs as building progresses. This makes for a strong hull, but can be difficult to repair.

Strip Building

Strip-building, a variant of strip-planking, is also an excellent choice for the first-time builder, often used to build kayaks, canoes, and other small boats. One by one, strips are glued next to one another on the building jig and then temporarily stapled to the molds. Often, these strips have bead and cove edges for a better fit and a stronger seam. As strip after strip is laid down, the hull grows. Then, the whole thing gets a coat of fiberglass and epoxy, inside and out. While this procedure renders a beautiful, strong, and long lasting boat, some of the disadvantages are that the ’glassing is messy work, and if a repair is needed later on, it can become a major undertaking as there is no single “plank” to replace.

Batten Seam

Cold-Molding

Cold-molding is a process of creating a hull by layering. Epoxied (glued) veneers are generally laid up over a strip-planked, jig supported first layer to create a boat hull. This sandwiching of layers is somewhat related to making plywood but, of course, renders a far more complex shape. It is common to use straight-grained Douglas-fir, red cedar, or mahogany for the veneers—or a combination of these woods, chosen for their tensile strength and resistance to rot. Veneers are generally about 1⁄8″ thick and from 4″ to 10″ wide. For efficiency and best contact between layers, this process requires vacuum-bagging, where a piece of plastic becomes a giant clamp that conforms to the hull’s contours. A large piece of plastic is laid over the wet veneers that have been fitted and stapled into place.

Next, the plastic is sealed along the perimeter of the area to be squeezed. Finally, a vacuum pump removes the air underneath the plastic and atmospheric pressure forces it down tight on the veneers. The pump is left running (there’s always a little leakage) until the epoxy kicks (sets up). While experienced people can “bag” several layers at once, generally it’s done one layer at a time, on each side of the hull, alternating sides, with each layer running diagonally to the previous one.

The process, though lengthy, can employ workers with less skill than some other types of wooden boat construction. To be sure, this is a messy and complex way to create a hull—but the results are worth it. Cold-molded hulls are very strong and easy to maintain.

Getting Out a Plank

Now that we have touched upon the most common types of planking, it’s time to address how to make the planks themselves. Some methods, like carvel and lapstrake, require a builder to learn how to spile a plank. Spiling is translating those three-dimensional curves and tucks of the hull to something that we can cut out of flat plank stock. You will soon discover that all of those sweet lines marked on a nicely lined-off building jig no longer look the same when picked off and placed on the stock on your bench.

When we see planks on the hull, what we perceive as lines running parallel with the sheer are actually shallow Ws, Ss, and other shapes that look like crescent moons or bananas when laid out in two dimensions (see illustrations above). This isn’t true of all hulls, though; depending on the size and type of the boat, you may find that a few of the planks are straight. Spiling entails nailing a batten onto the hull where you want the plank to go and recording on it the information about its shape. For spiling battens, I usually staple a few strips of lauan plywood together, attached with a scab or butt strap. Once the batten is placed, the marking can begin.

Some use a compass, some a joggle stick, while others prefer a length of a carpenter’s folding rule. Whatever means you choose, it is important to be consistent and meticulous. Any slop or movement will result in an inaccurate spiling. To use a compass as shown in our example on the facing page, start with a setting that has the appropriate reach for the entire length of the plank. Once that is established, set the compass and make a “sacred” circle somewhere—on the boat, the bench, or another board—but not on the batten, as this may be confused with spiling marks in that location. If you ruin your setting, you can quickly restore it using the sacred circle.

With one leg of the compass on the reference point, use the other, the pencil end, to draw an arc (a quarter circle or so) on the spiling batten. Continue to make these marks until you have picked up points along the top and bottom edges of the plank space. Next, remove the spiling batten and secure it to your planking stock which is lying flat on the bench. Then, with the compass setting still intact (check it on your sacred circle), transfer the points you picked up from the boat to the planking stock.

Picking Up Points

Note the “smiles” and “frowns” that the arcs make on the batten. The smiles indicate the endpoint, frame areas, and a few extra defining points along the boat’s bottom. The frowns indicate the only three available spots to pick up points from the lined off setup in this area (dotted lines indicate where battens have defined plank lines in the lining off process). The three points are the endmost point on the transom, the aftmost point on the aftmost frame, and the aftmost point on the aftmost mid-frame. Once forward, pick up the forward-most point on each frame and inner stem. These points define the shape of the plank.

Transferring Points to the Planking Stock

Used in lapstrake planking, gains are the areas at the bow, and often the stern, where the plank thickness at the overlap is reduced so that each plank gradually fairs into its adjacent partner by the time it reaches the stem (and the transom, if a smooth outline is desired). This is accomplished by planing a wedge- shaped rabbet at the end(s) of the plank. It sounds more complicated than it is; once you’ve done one, you can do a thousand. I hope this introduction to planking types and techniques will help you to make a more informed choice as you consider building your next boat.

We have only begun to scratch the surface here. The best way to learn more is to get out there and try it. Once you wrap your mind around the planking process, you’ll never look at woodworking the same way. For me, understanding the planking process opened up the world of boatbuilding. I hope it does the same for you.

Darin Carlucci and his wife, Serafina, live in Pemaquid, Maine.

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Marine plywood – a consumers guide, building a butterfly skylight, a sliding tool tray, sheathing a plywood deck, related videos, how to build half models, part 2, the abcs of wooden spar construction, setting up the construction jig, a simple method for spiling planks, related book chapters, the backbone: keel and sternpost, a smooth and fair hull, subscribe for full access.

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Lapstrake/Clinker

Particularly since good clear marine wood (such as planks of mahogany) have become hard to obtain and that most other woods tend to split easily as they dry, there's been a move to replace the solid planks used for clinker-build with strips of plywood that effectively solve both the availability and splitting issues.

It's that method that I now refer to under 'Lapstrake'. Many small boats of the rowing type (like Wherry's and rowable Adirondacks etc) can now be built like this and even larger monohulls of the Folkboat type also.

One can also combine this method with the use of wider sheets for the flat-of-side and lower bottom, as was done very attractively in the design of the UK 17' 6" sailing dinghy 'Osprey'.

I personally liked the way the combination gives clean lines to a boat and stiffens the bilge area without internal framing being required, that I used it for a small series of 13‑footers called the Canadian Beaver, about 20 years back.

And without any need for added hull roll-resistance on a multihull, that benefit would also not be valid in such a case. One interesting development of the original clinker build, was the use of a reversed clinker—where the hull was built starting at the gunwale and the added strakes were overlapped as one built towards the keel. The few designers who used this approach way-back, claimed that the overlapping 'lands' caused less resistance—and in fact it's very likely that planing boats built to this reverse-clinker method actually had less resistance than those with pure round-bilge, as the water could separate away from the bottom surface very cleanly and lower the surface contact, rather in the same fashion as does a racing hull with multiple steps. So I submit that this reverse-clinker concept may still have some future on a multihull after all.

Here are a few additional links also: Boat Building Books

You can also click here to see this process explained in The Philosophy of Shipbuilding .

Although a 24' monohull, here is an example of a lapstrake hull for a fine prize-winning traditional design 'Stir Ven' by Francois Vivier of France. Strakes are laid out and pre-cut on a numerically controlled (NC) machine.

Advantages are enjoyment of construction in small steps; economy of wood; a stiff, rugged hull without need of much internal stiffening; attractive appearance; round bilge design. Laps make boat more resistant to rolling and add a cushioned ride. Also, well made epoxy-glued lapstrake boats rarely leak.

Disadvantages for a multihull are: increased resistance due to plank edges; concentration of narrow strips mostly under the waterline in order to achieve desired shape; slightly heavier overall weight than several other options.

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All Videos » Building the Caledonia Yawl

Short of taking a course in person at a boat building school, there’s nothing like our glued lapstrake plywood boat building videos for learning the ins and outs of this wooden boat building method. In our in-depth series on how to build an Iain Oughtred-designed Caledonia Yawl, pro boat builder Geoff Kerr takes you all the way through the process from setting up shop to rigging and launch.

Get hours of up-close instruction from Geoff and save time and money getting it right the first time. Whether it’s making the building frame, setting the molds, planking, building the centerboard trunk, building the rails or painting, Geoff shares insider tips and tricks so you can keep your build moving forward with confidence.

Plywood Lapstrake Construction is a modern boat building method which involves overlapping and fastening with epoxy the edges of marine-grade plywood planks. These designs are easy to build, unusually light and strong, and free from leaks. Have a look at the full series below.

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Lapstrake Vessels – A History

National boating history conference.

Good morning, ladies and gentlemen and thank you for joining us for this National Boating History Conference.

I love old varnished mahogany speedboats, but I have also had many rewarding experiences with lapstrake boats.

In the year 735 the Vikings began making a name for themselves by trading and plundering along the northern coasts of Europe. Their light, seaworthy vessels made it possible for them to reach coasts as far away as Newfoundland, and establish a community there. In 1904, a ninth century Viking ship was uncovered and later restored. Their activities gradually spread the lapstrake hull design around the world. Each geographical area adapted it to their particular use, which was fishing, cargo, or war. Every available wood was used, rift sawn so that grain was parallel to the surface, reducing splitting. Wooden pegs and iron clinch nails were used to join the laps. Thus, came the term clinker. Boats were built upright, and the ribs, both sawn and steam bent, were installed later.

The Europeans brought lapstrake construction to the New World. Masters taught their skills to their apprentices, nothing was written down. Every craftsman and every area developed varied designs. 2,000 lapstrake Bateaux were used to fight the French and Indian Wars. Adirondack Guide boats were built light so that men and cargo could go west. When rivers ran low boats were carried to the next one.

Lapstrake hulls simplify the joining of the outer planks, the joints are easily made watertight and boats are lighter because fewer parts are needed. Battens are used to cover seams in carvel vessels. The thick lap area of the lapstrake boat stiffens the hull and requires fewer fastenings. The ridges of the laps grip the water on the outside and stabilize the hull, in a seaway. In the bow, these laps provide lift on approaching waves and deflect the spray. Terms like sea kindly and surf kindly were given to these advantages.

Throughout the seventeen and eighteen hundreds, fishermen used skiffs of 15 to 25 ft, to confront the sea and bring home their catch. Names like, Jersey Sea Skiff, Staten Island Skiff, New England Wherry, Pea Pod, Cog, Cutter, Pink and many more became known. In the 1800’s 5 million pounds of fish were brought ashore in these boats, each year.

If a boat was to carry weight, planks went all the way to the keel. Rocks were used as ballast and thrown overboard as the catch came in. If the boat was used on the beach and in the shallows, the bottoms would be flat planks. If it was to be a surf boat more rocker, from front to back was built into the bottom and greater shear for a higher bow. Pea Pods were double ended, others had sterns that raked sharply aft to prevent pooping. Daggerboards and centerboards were used for stability and to provide resistance for a sail rig, which most used.

In the nineteenth and 20th centuries, White cedar was prized for planking and oak for scantlings. When cedar began to run out juniper was used, along with other varieties. To imagine the number and variety of designs, think of the east coast of the United States, at any one time, every village and town had one or more family boat builder producing his own popular variety of skiff. As the population moved west, they took the designs with them, adapting them to the new surroundings and eventually reaching the west coast.

Christian Thompson and his wife immigrated to Peshtego, Wisconsin in 1887 and raised 5 sons, on a farm. They built a flat bottom boat and a canoe for their own use. By 1904, requests for boats from neighbors and friends caused them to start building full time. They offered rowboats, barges, skiffs, canoes, and kayaks. When their town was hit by a devastating fire they built a new factory to help in the recovery. By 1911, they were offering small boats of many shapes and sizes and a 20 page catalog. 1911 was the year that planning hulls began to be built. Up until that time, when a motor was available, it was used on an existing rocker bottomed boat. When pushed hard, this hull shape would squat or ride deeper and resist going fast.

Pioneers like Albert Hickman of sea Sled fame, and John Hacker, discovered that flat bottoms could skim across the water. As word of these fast boats spread, builders provided straight runs aft, on bottoms, so boats could plane. Suddenly, boats could go 20 miles an hour! Today’s popular, Jersey speed skiff, racing boats, were first raced in 1922. The planning hulls brought about a revolution in boatbuilding. People wanted smooth hulled boats. There was a reduction in lapstrake popularity after the 20’s; they were old fashioned, slow, too much wetted surface. Strip plank and carvel hulls became more popular.

The Second World War brought about another boat construction revolution, High quality plywood. The strength, resistance to expansion and uniformity, brought about a resurgence in lapstrake construction. In `51 Chris Craft began offering 18 and 22′ models that were valued for their big water, seaworthy performance. The round chine hull shape would hold the water in turns and in rough weather. Custom builders like the Johnson Brothers of Bay Head, New Jersey, made tough, beautiful, well finished models that are revered today. By `55 Chris Craft offered models up to 40 ft in length for fishing and cruising. In `52 Century offered the Viking and later the Raven, lapstrake models. Hundreds of manufacturers like Pen Yan, Cruisers Inc., Barbour, Dunphy, Hacker, Old Town, Owens, and Wagemaker all offered outboard models with seakindly performance.< Many of the early fiberglass models copied the lapstrake look. Modern fiberglass hulls still include longitudinal steps for stability and smooth ride. All over America, wherever there was water, small family firms like the Thompson Brothers, offered affordable, practical, seaworthy boats. I have built and restored lapstrake vessels. Their unique construction method brings about repair challenges, in older hulls. My friend, Don Dannenburg has coined the term "Mop and Glow, Restorer" I fear that I, along with some of you, fall into this category. I look for things to apply to the thoroughly cleaned hull that will solve the problems, rather than replacing the wood. Loose lap joints must be blown out with compressed air and have their fastenings tightened, replaced or more added. The joints can then be penetrated with Elmers, Pro-Bond Urethane glue. This product has an affinity for cracks and will often come out on the other side. I buy it by the case. Once all the laps are penetrated and cleaned up, I use a garden sprayer to soak the entire hull with Smith's Clear Penetrating Sealer. It hardens and waterproofs the wood and glues everything together; three coats are required. If your hull is prepared for paint, you can apply it as soon as the last coat of epoxy has tacked up and the paint will be glued on. This product was made for us mop and glow restorers. Most lapstrake boats have steam bent ribs. Many need repair. A simple steamer can be built with a new metal fuel can piped to the center of a length of 6 or 8" plastic pipe. Spacer dowels are inserted in the pipe to keep the material off the bottom. After the broken ribs are removed new ones can be bent in place and secured. Only the finest straight grain oak can be used. The prepared stock is steamed for about an hour and forced into place with welding gloves. Replacements must be staggered so that hull shape is maintained. All structural repairs must be done before the Epoxy Penetration. Another easy restoration trick I have discovered is reinforcing creaky, loose decks with construction adhesive. After cleaning and repairs are made, a bead of adhesive is run next to both sides of stringers, with a caulking gun and smoothed out with a gloved finger. The result is suprisingly stronger, solid decks. You may have noticed that I never mentioned Lyman Lapstrake boats, one of my favorites. That is because we have Tom Koroknay a renowned restorer and Lyman Historian here to tell this fascinating story. We will take questions after his presentation. Welcome aboard, Tom.

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Iain Oughtred has long had a reputation for designing beautiful and sea-worthy boats, but amongst the home boatbuilding fraternity, the apparent difficulties and risks of building classic clinker ply boats have put many off attempting a build of one of his masterpieces.

About five years ago, I was already producing kits for the stitch and tape designs of Paul Fisher , when I decided to have a go at building one of Iain’s designs.  After a considerable amount of expensive marine plywood had been consigned to the off-cuts box for use as kindling for the winter fire, I decided to sit down and try to work out a way of using a plate development programme to make up glued lapstrake kits on the CNC router.

We started with the Feather Pram, being the smallest boat in his catalogue, and a few days later after a lot of experimentation on the CAD system, I marked out the planks and molds on some very cheap plywood and MDF, and started putting it together.  As this boat was not intended to go on the water, I used some quick setting glue, and a few hours later, the first Feather Pram was built, proving that the basic method worked.

When I spoke to Iain about this, he was less than impresssed, and did not really seem to believe me.  The next step was to build a real boat with CNC cut planks and moulds.  A few days later, it was wrapped up, strapped to the roof rack, and taken up to the Isle of Skye for Iain to actually see it in the flesh.  Duly impressed, Iain gave me his blessing, and since then we have created kits for more than half of his design catalogue, with several variations along the way.

After an abortive start to having the kits cut in the US in 2005, we are now cutting them in the USA again, and these kits have already made their way to Vermont, Texas, and Washington State.  Had it not been for the recession, they would have gone to Florida and Maryland as well, but that is the price of the bankers folly!

Why Glued Lapstrake?

There are considerable advantages in building in Glued Lapstrake compared to Stitch & Tape.  The first is that you will use a great deal less epoxy than you might with S&T.  Providing that you are careful with your application of epoxy, there will be a LOT less fairing and filling, so the working environment will be more pleasant as well.  Without the tape to fair, it is much easier to obtain a good finish, and when you have finished your boat, most (but not all) people will think it is a more attractive boat.  The downside, especially for newbies, is that there is a higher level of woodworking skill required, but with patience and forethought, a first timer will be able to produce a very good result, as some of the pictures show.

When we first started producing the kits, I had thought that they would be extremely demanding in terms of the initial setup of the building frame, but in fact, we have found that they are a great deal more forgiving than first anticipated.  There are two cases to illustrate that point.  The first was that Feather Pram: I had secured the bow transom at the wrong angle, and found the laps getting smaller and smaller as I planked over the bilges.  As we came up to the sheerstrake however, the laps returned to their correct widths, and we have a usable boat.  The second example is an Auk build, where our customer set up the molds ½” further apart than he should have.  By the time he realised that there was something wrong, two pairs of planks were already glued up on the moulds, and we had to make up a plan quickly.  The scarph joints were shortened, and the boat went together with just the sheerstrake needing a few inches of scrap ply scarphed onto the end.  We changed the kit documentation after that episode!

Other Designers

With the word having spread that we had successfully kitted the Oughtred designs, the phone started ringing with requests to kit other designers boats, so we have now made up glued lapstrake kits for Duck Trap’s Christmas Wherry and Duck Trap Wherry, the Whisstock 074, and Paul Fisher’s 9 & 15ft Northumbrian Cobles.  We are more than happy to make up kits for other designs, but we will only do this with the permission of the copyright holder.  Before you ask, sadly, Phil Bolger said “No”.  I had hoped to get over the Pond see him this summer to try to persuade him otherwise, but his sad passing locks this possibility away for good.

So, what do you get in the kit…

At present, the kits consist only of the plywood planking, and the molds over which the hull is built.  We also supply full size patterns for the Apron and Transom which differ very slightly from Iain’s plans as we re-loft the hull in our CAD system.  There are notes regarding the specific kit, but for planking  the hull, there is a guide on our website.  For all the other detail, we recommend Iain’s Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual ISBN 0-937822-61-2. 

You will need to supply all the other timbers, fixings, epoxy, fittings etc.  The kits are shipped in flat pack 8x4 sheets with the parts being held in place in the plywood sheets by tabs.

The kits are sold by us in the UK, and cut in Maine using Bruynzeel BS1088 Gaboon ply.  We do care strongly about the quality of the kits, and we will happily answer any questions you have about the them, either before you buy, or while you are building.  If necessary, we will call you back if you need to speak to us to clarify some point.

If you are reading this from Australia or New Zealand, the kits are also being cut in Australia by NISBoats.

Visit Alec's website at: https://jordanboats.co.uk  

Boat Profile

A Lapstrake Livery Boat

A Whitehall for quick construction

From Issue   Small Boats Annual 2016 May 2015

W hat was left of the boat rotting in the brambles on the north shore of Clear Lake in Western Washington was once a very fast boat under oars. Back in the 1930s John Thomas “could row it across the lake, fill up two gallon jugs with spring water and row halfway back on one cigarette.” When John Sack, Thomas’s nephew, took over the lakeside family cabin in the 1960s, the boat had been sitting at the base of the largest pine tree on the property, unused for a decade.

In 1983 John asked me to build new boat to replace the one his uncle had thought of so highly. Rot had taken a heavy toll and although most of the sheerstrake was gone there was enough boat there to measure it and to show how it was put together. My search for the origins of the boat led to the lines of a lapstrake Whitehall Livery Boat in Maynard Bray’s Mystic Seaport Museum Watercraft . The shape, dimensions and many of the construction details—shortcuts for an easy, quick build—were a nearly perfect match. Bray writes: “…in spite of the quick and dirty way she is built, there is nothing at all second rate about her shape; she is one of the nicest modeled puling boats in the entire collection.” I ordered the plans and set to work.

“There is nothing second rate about her shape; she is one of the nicest modeled pulling boats in the entire collection.”

The livery boat is 13′6 ⅝″ long with a beam of 3′7 ½″. It has seven strakes and steam-bent oak ribs on 5 ½″ centers, clench-nailed at the plank laps and riveted at the gunwale. The last two frames at either end take very tight turns at the keel, so supple bending stock is a must.

The keel and the keel batten (as they’re labeled on the plans) run nearly straight from stem to sternpost. There is no deadwood forming a skeg as on some Whitehalls, so the garboards, rather than turn upward to the transom, follow the keel and batten and twist to vertical at the sternpost, much they would in a double-ender.

The plans note that the boat has a one-piece stem. I’d be surprised if that were indeed the case. The aft end of the garboard and broad strakes run past the sternpost and are capped with a small triangular false sternpost, fastened after the planks are trimmed flush. The forward end of the garboard in the relic I saw has an odd jog around the outer stem (a detail that isn’t clear in the plans or the photograph in Bray’s book) that suggests the use of a false stem.

Lightly built, the livery boat makes rowing a pleasure.

The plans indicated that the garboards were run past the keel batten and then planed flat to accept the keel in the same manner that a dory’s garboards are planed flush with the bottom and protected by a false bottom. With rabbets and the time they take to shape eliminated from the stern and keel assembly, it seems unlikely that the stem would be of one piece and rabbeted to accept the hood ends of the planks. I built John’s boat with a two-piece stem.

Bray notes: “…what appears to be the keel is in reality only a chafing strip to protect the garboards from damage. Thus built, the garboard seam is hidden and cannot be caulked later.” To avoid problems with the seam between the keel and the garboard, I widened the keel batten, and the garboards overlap it much like any other plank lap for most of their length. With the oak keelson resting mostly on the oak batten for much of its length, it has a more solid footing than it would on the feathered edges of soft cedar planking. The 3M 5200 I used in the seams has kept the laps at the keel and the rest of the hull tight and leak-free for 31 years.

T he boat is, as you might expect of a fast pulling boat, a bit tender. I can stand in it with confidence, but stepping upright from one thwart to another gets a bit twitchy. The stability picks up quite quickly so it doesn’t twitch far, but I prefer getting aboard or moving about with my hands on the gunwales. Seated, of course, the boat is comfortably stable. When I sit at the side of the center thwart, my 200 lbs bring the sheerstrake to the water’s surface.

The frames in very ends of the boat take some very tight turns. Better trim could be achieved with a passenger aboard by making the stern bench longer and adding a backrest to put the additional weight farther forward.

There are two rowing stations but a boat this size doesn’t gain anything by having two people at the oars—more power won’t make it go appreciably faster. One station is for rowing alone and the other for rowing with a passenger in the stern. The volume of the stern sections is carried quite high, so it’s best to have the heavier occupant at the oars. With John in the stern sheets and his daughter Mary at the oars, the boat settled down by the stern. Had they changed positions the boat would have trimmed well. The thwarts are set just 5 ½″ below the sheer, so the oarlocks are set in pads that add another 2″ of height for more clearance for rowing.

The plans call for thwart knees sawn from straight-grained ¾″ stock, certainly the simplest solution to bracing the hull, but I opted for bent knees for a less clunky appearance and adequate strength for the boat’s purpose. Simple blocks of wood secured to the center floorboard provide foot bracing adequate for casual rowing.

The hull’s very fine waterlines aft and ample drag keep it tracking arrow straight. If I were to build the boat again I might move the thwarts 6″ or 8″ to have the stern settle not quite so deep. For now, any cargo, like John Thomas’s gallon jugs of spring water, would serve the trim best when set in the bow.

The short waterline length makes the livery boat easy to maneuver. Changing course while underway takes few strong pulls on side, and at a standstill I could spin the boat through 360 degrees in 10 strokes, pulling one oar and backing the other.

For Mary Sack, John’s daughter, and her two brothers, rowing has been one of the pleasures visiting the family cabin on Clear Lake.

With a lazy pull at the oars I could poke along at a GPS-measured 3.5 knots and go almost as fast backing. A little more effort took me up past 4 knots. I peaked at 4 ¾ knots, about what I’d expect for a waterline length of just under 13′. Not being a smoker I didn’t try to see if I could get across the lake and halfway back on a single cigarette. At speed the wake’s transverse waves are small; there is no gurgling coming from the stern as the boat eases the displaced water back together. The boat carries well between strokes. The hull is light enough that when I swing my upper body aft during the recovery, the boat surges ahead.

At a relaxed pace the livery boat is easily driven. Here, pushed hard, it does around 4¾ knots.

John, a devotee of racing shells, equipped the boat with folding bronze outriggers that increased the span between the locks by 13″. The arrangement worked well enough with his 9′3″ racing sculls, although the boat won’t go any faster; rather than increase the speed, the longer oars just lower the rowing cadence and for some, that’s a more pleasant way to row. The outriggers have sockets for the original rowlocks so the boat could still be rowed as designed, on the gunwales, with the 7′3″ spoon-blade oars I built for the boat. The shorter oars offer the higher cadence I prefer and more clearance over the legs for the stroke’s release and recovery. The clearance for the stroke was good for flat water I’ve had on the lake whenever I’ve rowed John’s boat, but there’s enough freeboard and enough clearance for the oars to take on the kind of chop a small lake is likely to generate when the wind comes up.

This boat is not a workhorse. Only 15½″ deep amidships (13¾″ measured inside), it hasn’t an abundance of freeboard for rough water or carrying heavy loads. Bray surmised that the design was for a boat that “might have been kept by a lakeside summer hotel for use by its guests.” The boat I built for John, like the boat his uncle took such pride in, was ideally suited to his lakeside cabin.

 Christopher Cunningham is the editor of Small Boats Monthly.

Particulars

LOA/13′6⅝″ Beam (inside planking)/3′7½″ Depth/15½″

Plans are available from Mystic Seaport. The accession number is 1973.728 (formerly listed as 73.728).

Is there a boat you’d like to know more about? Have you built one that you think other Small Boats Monthly readers would enjoy? Please email us!

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Comments (2)

The stem, if made from a natural crook or knee, could very well have been of one piece.

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How to Build Glued Lapstrake Wooden Boats

There is something about wooden boats that just captures the imagination. Maybe it’s the way they seem so timeless or the sense of adventure they represent. Undoubtedly, wooden boats are a popular choice for those looking to get out on the water.

And while building a wooden boat from scratch can be daunting, it’s definitely doable with some patience and skill. In this blog post, we’ll walk you through the steps necessary to build your own glued lapstrake wooden boat. So if you’re up for the challenge, read on to learn more about how to build glued lapstrake wooden boats.

Summary: In this tutorial, we will show you how to build glued lapstrake wooden boats. Lapstrake is a type of boat construction where the bottom and sides of the boat are made from separate pieces of wood that are then attached together with thin strips of wood called lapstrakes. This unique construction allows for a great deal of flexibility in how the boat is assembled, making it perfect for a variety of uses.

What Is a Glued Lapstrake Wooden Boat?

A glued lapstrake wooden boat is a type of boat that is built by overlapping planks of wood, known as strakes. The strakes are then fastened together using either nails or screws. This method of construction results in a strong and durable hull. Glued lapstrake boats are typically used for recreational purposes, such as fishing or sailing.

However, they can also be used for work tasks like transporting goods or passengers. Due to their sturdy construction, glued lapstrake boats are often used in rough waters. If you’re looking for a boat that can withstand the elements, a glued lapstrake wooden boat is a great choice.

Why Should You Build Glued Lapstrake Wooden Boats?

There is nothing quite like piloting a wooden boat for anyone who loves being on the water. These boats have a classic beauty that is unmatched by modern vessels, and they are also renowned for their durability and seaworthiness. Building a glued lapstrake wooden boat is a challenging but rewarding project, and the finished product will provide years of enjoyment. Lapstrake construction is considered particularly strong and stable and an excellent choice for larger boats.

The glued lapstrake method uses planks that are overlapping, or “clinched,” at the seams, providing additional strength and rigidity. This type of construction can be more complicated than other methods, but it is well worth the effort for anyone who wants to build a high-quality wooden boat.

8 Steps to Follow on How to Build Glued Lapstrake Wooden Boats

Step 1: pick out the right plans.

The first step is to make sure you have the right plans. Next, you need a set of blueprints that are specific to lapstrake boats. These will include all the dimensions and angles you’ll need to create your boat. Finally, make sure you find a set of plans you’re comfortable working with before starting construction.

Step 2: Cut Out the Pieces

Once you have your plans, use them to cut out all the pieces you’ll need to assemble your boat. Be precise with your cuts and take your time to make sure everything is accurate. The last thing you want is for your boat to fall apart because of a bad cut.

Step 3: Assemble the Frame

The next step is to start assembling the frame of your boat. This is where things can start to get tricky, so it’s important to take your time and make sure everything is lined up correctly. Once the frame is together, you can move on to the next step.

Step 4: Attach the Planking

The next step is to attach the planking to the frame of your boat. This is traditionally done with nails or screws, but you can also use glue if you prefer. Make sure the planking is nice and tight against the frame, so there are no gaps.

Step 5: Caulk the Seams

Once the planking is in place, you need to caulk all the seams to ensure your boat is watertight. This is a critical step, so make sure you do it carefully. You don’t want any leaks in your boat.

Step 6: Attach the Decking

The next step is to attach the decking to the boat. This can be done with screws, nails, or glue. Make sure the decking is nice and tight, so there are no gaps.

Step 7: Finish the Interior

The next step is to finish the interior of your boat. This can include adding seats, storage, or anything else you want in your boat. Once you have everything you want, you can launch your boat.

Step 8: Launch Your Boat

The final step is to launch your boat and enjoy it! You’ve worked hard to build your own boat so make sure you take it out and enjoy it. Building a glued lapstrake wooden boat can be a lot of work, but it’s also a lot of fun. Follow these steps, and you’ll be able to build your own boat in no time.

That’s it! You’ve now learned how to build glued lapstrake wooden boats. These boats are strong and durable and look great out on the water. If you follow these steps, you’ll be able to build your own boat in no time.

How to Choose the Right Wood for Your Boat

If you’re in the market for a new boat, you may be wondering what kind of wood is best suited for the job. There are a few things to consider when making your decision. First, you’ll need to think about the weight of the boat. Heavier boats will need stronger wood that can support the additional weight. Second, you’ll need to take into account the climate in which you’ll be using the boat.

If you plan on sailing in salt water, for example, you’ll need to choose a type of wood that is resistant to salt water damage. Finally, you’ll need to consider your budget. Some types of wood are more expensive than others, so you’ll need to decide what you’re willing to spend. With these factors in mind, you should be able to choose the right wood for your boat.

Tips for Painting or Staining Your Wooden Boat

Painting or staining your wooden boat can be a great way to protect it from the elements and give it a new lease on life. However, there are a few things to keep in mind when undertaking this project. First, choosing the right type of paint or stain for the job is important. Marine-grade products are designed to withstand the harsh conditions of saltwater and sun exposure, so they’re a good choice for boats that spend a lot of time on the water.

Second, be sure to prepare the surface of the boat before painting or staining. This includes sanding down any rough spots and removing any old paint or stain that may be peeling. Finally, take your time when applying the paint or stain. Multiple thin coats are better than one thick coat, and it’s important to allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next.

Painting or staining your boat with a little care and attention can help it look new again. Keep reading for more information about how to build glued lapstrake wooden boats.

Tips for Maintaining and Repairing Your Wooden Boat

Wood is a beautiful and durable material for building boats, but it requires special care to keep it in good condition. Here are a few tips for maintaining and repairing your wooden boat:

To help prevent sun damage , regularly apply a coat of marine-grade varnish or paint. Be sure to sand the surface first to create a smooth finish.

To protect against water damage, regularly seal the wood with a waterproofing agent such as epoxy resin. You may also want to consider installing internal drains and bilge pumps to help remove water from the boat’s interior.

If your boat sustains any kind of damage, be sure to repair it as soon as possible. This will help prevent further damage and deterioration. Depending on the severity of the damage, you may be able to make repairs yourself, or you may need to hire a professional.

By following these tips, you can help ensure that your wooden boat will stay in good condition for many years to come.

Why Glued Lapstrake Construction is the Best Way to Build Boats

If you’re looking for the strongest and most durable way to build a boat, look no further than glued lapstrake construction. This method has been used for centuries, which is why it’s still around today. Glued lapstrake construction involves overlapping planks of wood, which are then fastened together with strong adhesives.

This creates a much stronger hull than one made from a single piece of wood. It also allows for greater flexibility, which is essential for boats used in rough conditions. In addition, glued lapstrake construction is much lighter than other methods, making it easier to transport and maneuver. For all these reasons, glued lapstrake construction is the best way to build boats.

What is the Best Wood for Lapstrake?

Lapstrake construction involves overlapping planks over each other to create a strong, watertight hull. Choosing the right wood for lapstrake construction is crucial to ensure that the vessel is durable and long-lasting. The best wood for making lapstrake boasts an excellent strength-to-weight ratio, high density, and resistance to rot and decay.

Woods such as Douglas fir, cedar, white oak, and mahogany are popular choices for their durability and flexibility. Douglas fir is favored for its strength and resistance to rot, while cedar is a lighter option that offers excellent resistance to moisture. White oak has a high tannin content, which makes it resistant to pests, fungi, and rot.

Meanwhile, mahogany is known for its beautiful grain patterns and natural resistance to water. Ultimately, the choice of wood for lapstrake construction depends on the vessel’s specific needs, including the conditions it will face and the desired finish. Properly selecting and preparing the wood is a crucial step in ensuring the long life of the vessel.

How to Build a Boat Out of Wood?

Building a wooden boat can be a hugely rewarding project for anyone who loves working with their hands and spending time on the water. To get started, you’ll need a good set of plans that outline the specific measurements and materials you’ll need. Once you have your plans, it’s time to gather your materials and tools.

You’ll need a variety of woods, including marine-grade plywood, as well as epoxy resin to seal and waterproof your boat. You’ll also need a range of woodworking tools, including saws, drills, and chisels. Once you have your materials and tools, it’s time to begin constructing your boat. This will involve cutting and shaping the wood according to your plans and then joining the boards together using glue and screws.

As you work, you’ll need to be patient and diligent, ensuring that each joint fits perfectly and that the boat is structurally sound. Once your boat is fully constructed, you’ll need to sand it down and finish it with a coat of marine varnish to help protect it against water damage.

So there you have it – a simple guide on how to build glued lapstrake wooden boats. By following these steps, you should be able to create a beautiful and sturdy vessel that will last for years of enjoyment. Have you tried building one of your own? We’d love to see photos or hear about your experiences in the comments section below.

Adrian Green

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Glued Lapstrake Boat Plans: A Comprehensive Guide to Building Your Own Boat

I have been a fan of wooden boats for as long as I can remember. There is something special about the way they look and feel that sets them apart from other types of boats. One type of wooden boat that has always caught my eye is the lapstrake boat. These boats have a unique look with overlapping planks that create a distinctive pattern on the hull. In this article, I will explore glued lapstrake boat plans and share some insights into designing, building, and maintaining these beautiful boats.

The history of lapstrake boats dates back centuries, and they have been used for a variety of purposes, including fishing, transportation, and recreation. Over time, the design and construction of these boats have evolved, and today, they are a popular choice for wooden boat enthusiasts. Designing a lapstrake boat requires careful consideration of factors such as size, shape, and intended use. Building a lapstrake boat is a labor-intensive process that involves cutting and shaping planks, fitting them together , and securing them with fasteners or glue. Once the boat is built, it requires regular maintenance to keep it in top condition.

Table of Contents

Key Takeaways

• Glued lapstrake boat plans offer a unique and beautiful option for wooden boat enthusiasts.
• Designing and building a lapstrake boat requires careful consideration of factors such as size, shape, and intended use.
• Regular maintenance is essential to keep a lapstrake boat in top condition.

History and Evolution of Lapstrake Boats

As a boat building technique, lapstrake construction has been around for centuries, with its origins dating back to the Vikings in the 8th century. Lapstrake construction involves overlapping planks and fastening them together with screws or nails. This technique was used extensively in the construction of small boats and yachts until the mid-20th century.

Origins of Lapstrake Construction

The Vikings were the first to use lapstrake construction in their boats, which allowed them to build light, seaworthy vessels that could travel long distances. The technique was later adopted by boat builders in Europe and North America. In the United States, Nathanael Herreshoff was one of the most prominent designers of lapstrake boats in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Prominent Lapstrake Boat Designers

In recent years, several designers have gained prominence for their work in lapstrake boat plans. Iain Oughtred is one such designer, known for his elegant and functional small boats. His designs often incorporate traditional lapstrake construction techniques, but with modern materials and methods.

John Brooks is another designer who has made a name for himself in the world of lapstrake boats. He has designed and built numerous boats using glued lapstrake construction, a technique that involves using marine-grade plywood and epoxy to create a lapstrake hull without the need for interior framing.

Harry Bryan is a third designer who has contributed significantly to the evolution of lapstrake boat plans. He has developed a method of building lapstrake boats using a combination of traditional and modern techniques, resulting in boats that are both beautiful and functional.

Evolution of Glued Lapstrake Construction

In the 1980s, small craft designers began experimenting with glued lapstrake construction, which involves using marine-grade plywood and epoxy to create a lapstrake hull without the need for interior framing. This technique has become increasingly popular in recent years, as it allows builders to create strong, lightweight boats with a traditional lapstrake appearance.

Glued lapstrake construction has been used in a variety of boat types, from small rowboats to larger yachts. It has also been used to create boats with unique designs and features, such as the curved transoms and graceful lines of John Brooks’ designs.

In conclusion, lapstrake construction has a long and storied history in the world of boat building, and its evolution continues to this day. With the use of modern materials and techniques, designers and builders are creating boats that are both beautiful and functional, while still retaining the timeless elegance of traditional lapstrake construction.

Designing a Lapstrake Boat

As a boat builder, designing a lapstrake boat can be a rewarding project. There are several key factors to consider when designing a lapstrake boat, such as understanding boat design principles, selecting the right materials, and customizing your lapstrake boat.

Understanding Boat Design Principles

When designing a lapstrake boat, it is important to understand basic boat design principles. This includes understanding the sail plan, hull shape, and overall boat design. The sail plan will determine the size and shape of the sails, which will in turn affect the hull shape. The hull shape will determine the boat’s speed, stability, and handling characteristics.

Selecting the Right Materials

Selecting the right materials is crucial when designing a lapstrake boat. Marine plywood is a popular choice for lapstrake boatbuilding due to its strength, durability, and resistance to water damage. Other materials to consider include epoxy, fiberglass, and marine hardware. It is important to select materials that are appropriate for the boat’s intended use and environment.

Customizing Your Lapstrake Boat

Customizing your lapstrake boat is an important part of the design process. This includes selecting the boat’s size, shape, and layout. It is important to consider the boat’s intended use, such as whether it will be used for sailing or motor boating, and whether it will be used for racing or leisure. Customizing your lapstrake boat also includes selecting the boat’s interior and exterior finishes, such as paint, varnish, and upholstery.

Overall, designing a lapstrake boat requires a combination of knowledge, skill, and creativity. By understanding boat design principles, selecting the right materials, and customizing your lapstrake boat, you can create a boat that is both functional and beautiful.

Building Process and Techniques

As an experienced boat builder, I have found that the glued lapstrake construction method is one of the most efficient and effective ways to build a boat. In this section, I will walk you through the building process and techniques involved in creating a glued lapstrake boat.

Setting Up Molds and Building Jig

The first step in building a glued lapstrake boat is to set up molds and a building jig. The molds are templates that are used to shape the planks, while the building jig holds the molds in place during construction.

To set up the molds, I start by creating a pattern of the boat’s shape on a large piece of plywood. Then, I cut out the pattern and use it to create the molds. The molds are then attached to the building jig, which is a sturdy frame that holds everything in place during construction.

Planking and Gluing Techniques

Once the molds and building jig are in place, it’s time to start planking the boat. I prefer to use marine-grade plywood for the planks, as it is strong and durable. The planks are cut to size and then shaped to fit the contours of the molds.

To glue the planks together, I use epoxy. Epoxy is a strong adhesive that creates a watertight seal between the planks. I apply the epoxy to the edges of the planks and then clamp them together until the glue dries.

Adding the Backbone and Keel

After the planking is complete, it’s time to add the backbone and keel. The backbone is the primary structural element of the boat, and it provides support for the planks. The keel is a long, narrow piece of wood that runs along the bottom of the boat and provides stability.

To attach the backbone and keel, I use the same epoxy and clamping technique that I used for the planks. Once the glue is dry, I sand down any rough edges and apply a coat of varnish to protect the wood.

Overall, the glued lapstrake method is a reliable and efficient way to build a boat. With the right tools and techniques, anyone can successfully build a glued lapstrake boat that is strong, durable, and seaworthy.

Finishing Touches and Fittings

After completing the glued lapstrake boat, it’s time to add the finishing touches and fittings. This will not only make the boat look more appealing but will also add functionality to it. Here are some of the important finishing touches and fittings that you can add to your boat:

Sanding and Painting

After the boat is built, sanding and painting it is one of the most important steps. Sanding will help to smooth out the rough edges and create a uniform surface. Once the sanding is done, painting the boat will provide protection against the elements and give it a beautiful finish.

Installing Oars and Sails

The next step is to install the oars and sails. Installing oars will allow you to row the boat, while installing sails will allow you to sail it. Make sure to choose the right size of oars and sails for your boat.

Deck Fitting and Interior Work

Deck fitting and interior work are the final steps in finishing your glued lapstrake boat. Deck fittings such as cleats, chocks, and bollards will allow you to tie up the boat to a dock or buoy. Interior work such as installing seats, storage compartments, and a steering wheel will make the boat more comfortable and functional.

Overall, finishing touches and fittings are an important part of building a glued lapstrake boat. They not only provide protection and functionality but also add to the overall aesthetics of the boat. Make sure to take your time and do it right to ensure that your boat looks and performs its best.

Maintenance and Care

As with any boat, proper maintenance and care are essential to ensure the longevity and performance of your glued lapstrake boat. Here are some tips on how to keep your boat in top condition.

Routine Maintenance Tips

Regular cleaning is key to maintaining the appearance and condition of your boat. Use a mild soap and water solution to clean the deck and hull, and be sure to rinse thoroughly with fresh water. Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasives that can damage the finish or wood.

Inspect your boat regularly for any signs of wear or damage, such as cracks, rot, or delamination. Address any issues promptly to prevent further damage and maintain the structural integrity of your boat.

Repairing and Restoring Lapstrake Boats

If your boat requires repairs or restoration, it is important to use high-quality materials and techniques to ensure a long-lasting repair. Epoxy resin and marine-grade plywood are recommended for repairs, as they are durable and resistant to water damage.

When restoring a lapstrake boat, it is important to maintain the original design and construction as much as possible. This includes using the same types of wood and fasteners, and preserving any unique features or finishes.

Preservation of Wooden Boats

Preserving the natural beauty of wooden boats requires proper care and attention. Regularly applying a high-quality marine varnish or paint can help protect the wood from the elements and maintain its appearance.

When storing your boat, keep it in a dry, well-ventilated area to prevent moisture buildup and damage. Cover the boat with a breathable cover to protect it from dust and debris.

By following these maintenance and care tips, you can ensure that your glued lapstrake boat remains in top condition for years to come.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the essential materials needed for building a glued lapstrake boat?

Building a glued lapstrake boat requires a few essential materials, including marine-grade plywood , epoxy resin, fiberglass cloth, and fasteners. The plywood should be of high quality and have a thickness of at least 6mm. Epoxy resin is used to bond the plywood together and should be marine-grade. Fiberglass cloth is used to reinforce the joints and should have a weight of at least 6 ounces per square yard. Fasteners such as screws and nails should be made of stainless steel or bronze to prevent corrosion.

Where can I find free downloadable plans for a lapstrake skiff?

There are several websites that offer free downloadable plans for lapstrake skiffs. Some good sources include the WoodenBoat Forum, which has a section dedicated to designs and plans. The Ensign, a magazine for boat enthusiasts, also offers plans for a glued lapstrake boat. Duckworks is another great resource for finding lapstrake boat plans.

What are the steps involved in the construction of a lapstrake boat?

The construction of a lapstrake boat involves several steps. First, the frames and bulkheads are built and installed. Next, the planks are cut and shaped to fit the frames. The planks are then glued and fastened to the frames, starting at the keel and working upward. Once the planking is complete, the boat is sanded and finished with epoxy and varnish.

Can you recommend any resources for learning about lapstrake planking techniques?

There are several resources available for learning about lapstrake planking techniques. The book “The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction” is a comprehensive guide to boatbuilding that includes a section on lapstrake planking. The WoodenBoat Forum is another great resource for learning about lapstrake planking techniques, as there are many experienced boatbuilders who are happy to share their knowledge.

What are the common challenges faced when building a glued lapstrake wooden boat?

One of the most common challenges faced when building a glued lapstrake wooden boat is achieving a tight fit between the planks. This requires careful shaping and fitting of the planks, as well as precise placement of the fasteners. Another challenge is preventing the epoxy from running or dripping during the bonding process. This can be avoided by using a thickened or non-drip epoxy.

Are there any lapstrake boats available for sale that are built using traditional methods?

Yes, there are lapstrake boats available for sale that are built using traditional methods. Many boatbuilders specialize in lapstrake construction and offer custom-built boats for sale. There are also several companies that offer lapstrake boat kits for sale, which can be assembled using traditional methods.

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Building a Boat With Glued Lapstrake Construction

May 17, 2021 March 21, 2019 | How to

By Al Meyer

The beginning

I launched my previous boat, Wee Lass , a Penobscot 14 designed by Arch Davis, in 2004 and had lots of fun with it. In 2008, Hurricane Ike damaged the boat, but I repaired it and got it back in the water.

The boat developed a slow leak where the centerboard case joins the hull. Over time, it became more and more of a nuisance. When I noticed discoloration on some of the hull planks, I decided to start building a replacement.

I settled on the Tammie Norrie design by Scottish boat designer Iain Oughtred. Similar to the Penobscot 14 in style and dimensions, it has a few details such as open gunwales and park bench-type seating that make it a slightly prettier boat.

Tammie Norrie uses glued lapstrake construction. The easiest way to understand lapstrake construction is to think of the shingles on a roof: Each shingle overlaps the previous one a little bit. In the 9th century, Viking ships were built using the lapstrake method.

Traditional lapstrake construction requires using many frames to support the hull planking. When properly built, these boats are beautiful; however, many amateur boat builders steered away from traditional lapstrake construction.

In the 1980s, small craft designers started working with glued lapstrake construction. By making the planks out of marine-grade plywood instead of lumber and gluing them together with epoxy, builders could construct a lapstrake hull while eliminating much of the interior structure.

Tammie Norrie has a backbone consisting of a stem, keel, and transom, but no frames. This type of construction has two key advantages: It’s within reach of amateur boat builders (provided they employ the appropriate amount of patience), and it allows the amateur to construct boats that resemble classics from the late 1800s, such as Whitehalls, Rangeleys and Melonseeds.

Construction

Although you can buy Tammie Norrie kits, I chose to work from plans, which included full-size paper templates for the stem, transom and molds. Paper templates have received a bad reputation over the years; sometimes the printing machine distorts the plans, and paper is subject to changes in temperature and humidity. Fortunately, the plans also included a table of offsets, so the first thing I did was build a lofting table 4 feet wide and 16 feet long and lofted the boat full size. This enabled me to lay out the patterns for the parts I needed, which were then traced onto sheets of Mylar. Next, I disassembled the lofting table and used it to make the molds.

You build the boat upside-down, so I constructed a plywood box as a work platform. The molds were mounted on the box at the intervals specified in the plans, and the boat built over the molds.

With the molds and the backbone set in place, I ripped a bunch of long strips to line off the planks. Lining off serves two purposes: It verifies the molds are correct (the strips will show a bump or a wiggle if they’re out of shape), and it establishes or verifies the position of the planks. Tick marks on the paper templates indicate where the planks should go, so in this case, I transferred the tick marks to the molds, laid the strip along the marks, and adjusted as necessary to ensure a nice smooth curve at each plank.

Once satisfied with the lining off, I hung the strakes. Tammie Norrie has eight strakes per side. Because plywood only comes in 8-foot lengths and the boat is 13 feet 6 inches long, each strake has a forward and aft plank joined by a scarf. Each plank is beveled with a 1:8 slope.

The strakes don’t have a constant width. They tend to be a little wider amidships and narrower at the ends. They’re also not straight but have something of a C-shape, and all are shaped differently.

Ideally, the port side of strake 3 should be the mirror image of starboard strake 3, but strake 3 is shaped differently than strake 4. The process of determining the shape of the strakes is called “spiling.” The spiling methods I found in traditional boat building books all seemed to require a little bit of black magic and voodoo. I found a simpler method online.

I laid the long strips I used for lining off at the top and bottom edge of the strake and connected them using small scraps, in effect building a truss, or pattern, for each strake. I could then lay the pattern on the planking stock and trace an accurate plank.

I continued the process, first hanging a strake on one side, hanging its mirror image on the opposite side, and then hanging the next set of strakes. After hanging all the strakes, I installed the outer stem and keel. Next, I sealed the hull with two coats of thin epoxy before priming and painting. Then it was turnover day!

With the boat turned over, you need to strengthen the hull. This includes adding the floor timbers, breasthook, quarter knees and inwales. In boat building, there are only two kinds of lumber: “not cheap” and “very expensive.” Not cheap lumber is what you buy at the local big-box store. It’s good for making patterns and templates. Very expensive wood comes from specialty lumber dealers.

First, I made a temporary piece out of not cheap wood to ensure I had the dimensions and angles correct; after I was satisfied with the temporary piece, I cut out the final part out of very expensive wood.

Once the hull was strengthened, I started fitting out the interior. Fitting out includes adding the floorboards, centerboard case, thwarts, thwart knees, stern sheet, bow seat, and side benches. I carried the same process of making temporary pieces first through the fitting out stage.

Details, details

As a traditionally styled boat, Tammie Norrie should have traditional fittings where possible. Wee Lass had rope-stropped wooden blocks, and they worked well, so Tammie Norrie got its own set. I made the shells from cherry to match the rest of the boat’s trim, and I made the strops from Hempex, a synthetic faux-hemp.

Tammie Norrie also got a nice set of rope fenders. Wee Lass ’s rope fenders were really too small to be useful, but the fenders on Tammie Norrie are a different style and larger.

When I finally got ready to launch my new boat, I had to wait for a decent weekend. I had started lofting on Feb. 15, 2015, and launched the Sandra Catherine on Oct. 27, 2018. With glass-smooth water and not a puff of wind, the first trip was under oars. Later in the afternoon, a small breeze picked up, so we rigged the boat for sail and ghosted along for a little while.

Al Meyer belongs to Houston Sail & Power Squadron/21. He serves as a Vessel Check Examiner and instructor for America’s Boating Course and Seamanship. He prefers small, traditionally styled sailboats. This is the fourth boat he’s built. A detailed construction blog of building Sandra Catherine can be found at alsboatsdotcom.wordpress.com . This article first appeared in the squadron newsletter, Bay Neigh.

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What the Lapstrake Kit Includes

This is a true lapstrake boat, built on a strong back and not a stitch and glue version of lapstrake

» Computer cut Templates for the planks, bottom, and all station molds that aren’t bulkheads. These are cut from inexpensive 1/4 inch plywood. This means no lofting because the station molds are traced on the material used for molds.

» Bottom, planks, and bulkheads are computer cut from Lloyds Certified BS 1088 okume plywood.

» Each plank and the bottom have a step scarf pre-cut. Also each plank is labeled with a letter (G for garboard, M for mid-plank, S for sheer) and station numbers marked on the plank. Bulkheads are numbered and marked with a center line. This makes assembly simple and fast, with no confusion.

» Lloyds certified BS 1088 Plywood for the Decks

» Solid lumber for the inwales and outwales is pre-cut to dimension and has a 12 to 1 scarf pre-cut. The solid lumber for the cleats and sheer clamps are cut to dimension.

» Screws and hardware for hatches

» Of course, a well-illustrated manual and personal tech support

What is Lloyds Certified BS1088 plywood?

» Lloyds certification means that the plywood is certified by Lloyds of London to meet all BS1088 standards. Because not all BS1088 plywood is created equal using Lloyds certified plywood is your best way to assure the plywood in your boat is the top quality

Please feel free to contact us anytime with questions concerning our boat kits or your order/purchase.

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