The Kells 23 is a 22.92ft fractional sloop designed by Paul A. Lindh and built in fiberglass by Kells Corp. (USA) between 1971 and 1980.
The Kells 23 is a light sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is reasonably stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat.
![Kells 23 - photo 1/2 Kells 23 sailboat under sail](https://sailboatlab.com/media/photos/kells_23_photo.jpg)
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Main features
Model | Kells 23 | ||
Length | 22.92 ft | ||
Beam | 7.58 ft | ||
Draft | 0.92 ft | ||
Country | United states (North America) | ||
Estimated price | $ 0 | ?? |
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Sail area / displ. | 16.88 | ||
Ballast / displ. | 20.19 % | ||
Displ. / length | 199.03 | ||
Comfort ratio | 13.89 | ||
Capsize | 2.21 |
Hull type | Monohull swing keel | ||
Construction | Fiberglass | ||
Waterline length | 18 ft | ||
Maximum draft | 5 ft | ||
Displacement | 2600 lbs | ||
Ballast | 525 lbs | ||
Hull speed | 5.69 knots |
We help you build your own hydraulic steering system - Lecomble & Schmitt
Rigging | Fractional Sloop | ||
Sail area (100%) | 199 sq.ft | ||
Air draft | 0 ft | ?? | |
Sail area fore | 99.44 sq.ft | ||
Sail area main | 99.75 sq.ft | ||
I | 22.60 ft | ||
J | 8.80 ft | ||
P | 21 ft | ||
E | 9.50 ft |
Nb engines | 1 | ||
Total power | 0 HP | ||
Fuel capacity | 0 gals |
Accommodations
Water capacity | 0 gals | ||
Headroom | 0 ft | ||
Nb of cabins | 0 | ||
Nb of berths | 0 | ||
Nb heads | 0 |
Builder data
Builder | Kells Corp. (USA) | ||
Designer | Paul A. Lindh | ||
First built | 1971 | ||
Last built | 1980 | ||
Number built | 0 | ?? |
Other photos
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- Sailboat Guide
Kells 23 is a 22 ′ 11 ″ / 7 m monohull sailboat designed by Paul A. Lindh and built by Kells Corp. between 1971 and 1980.
![kells 22 sailboat Drawing of Kells 23](https://sailboat.guide/storage/representations/redirect/eyJfcmFpbHMiOnsiZGF0YSI6IjdjNjVmNzZlLTJjMjgtNGNlYy1iMTM5LTg2NmNlMjg3NjZjZSIsInB1ciI6ImJsb2JfaWQifX0=--a20972c6654c78722fef782230488b3ac4707e4b/eyJfcmFpbHMiOnsiZGF0YSI6eyJmb3JtYXQiOiJqcGciLCJzdHJpcCI6dHJ1ZSwiYXBwZW5kIjpbIi1jb250cmFzdC1zdHJldGNoIiwiMC4xJXgwLjElIiwiLWZ1enoiLCI1JSIsIi10cmFuc3BhcmVudCIsIndoaXRlIiwiLXRyaW0iLCIrcmVwYWdlIl0sImNvbnZlcnQiOiJ3ZWJwIiwicXVhbGl0eSI6NzV9LCJwdXIiOiJ2YXJpYXRpb24ifX0=--aeef1b407e617985370ee0768521842d13b94b46/drawing.jpg)
Rig and Sails
Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
Sail Area / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3
- SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
- D : Displacement in pounds.
Ballast / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
Displacement / Length Ratio
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
- D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
- LWL: Waterline length in feet
Comfort Ratio
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )
- D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
- LOA: Length overall in feet
- Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet
Capsize Screening Formula
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
A shallow draft keel version was also available. (also trailable). Kells Corp. was located in Tiverton, RI, USA. Little else is known about the company. A KELLS 22 also exists which is clearly different in appearance but even less is known about it.
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Kells 23 (Coaster 23)
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I need to locate a rigging diagram for a 1979 Kells 23 centerboard sloop. We recently came into possession of the boat but we need help w/the rigging.
to skegger. im restoring the same boat you have a kell 23. im in need of help setting up my regging because this is my first sailboat. the best place is to go to the sailboat show in ac this year you should be able to get info on it there.
Hello from Albert in San Francisco, CA. I have purchased a Kells 23 and also need a rigging guide or owners manual for this boat. Thanks for any information you may have. Albert [email protected]
I bought a Kells 23 and need info or manual also
![kells 22 sailboat](https://www.sailnet.com/d1/avatars/s/121/121440.jpg?1592288368)
Might try contacting the following regarding the Kells 23, as he was listed as the US contact for information about the boat on the GOB forums. Lee Fox 144 Raymond Lane Five Oaks Village Lot 12 Middletown, PA 17057-3064 717-944-7042 That said, you really shouldn't be reviving what is essentially a dead thread, since no one has replied to Alvan or Michael.
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Neglected Kells 23 sailboat... advice sought
Discussion in ' Boatbuilding ' started by retrosub , Jun 10, 2014 .
![kells 22 sailboat retrosub](https://www.boatdesign.net/styles/default/xenforo/avatars/avatar_s.png)
retrosub Junior Member
Kells 23 strawler conversion A friend gave me a Kells 23 sailboat, it's a bit like a Catalina 22, but with a glassed-in 750 lb shoal draft keel. I had the boat checked out at the marina (unfortunately after doing the registration paperwork), and the mechanic said I should throw it away. Some hardware at the bow was removed and water intruded and rotted the balsa core decks. They gave me a break on the storage fees, but wanted it off their lot. I should have known something was wrong when I towed it 40 miles home. Inside the boat there was a couple hundred gallons of water sloshing around. Naturally this rotted most of the wood, especially the wood between the fiberglass layers. Apparently Kells laid plywood down and then glassed over it to create flat surfaces. Well, the fiberglass hull seems sound, but the upper layer is just peeling away from the rotted plywood. I'm not sure how to get a look at all of it, save cutting out the molded in furniture (galley, dinette, etc). I'm not really sure what to do at this point. Throwing away the boat will cost money at the dump, but I should be able to recoup some from recycling or selling the sailing bits. (How would I cut off and salvage a 750 lb glassed-in lead keel?) The trailer is the best part of the boat, it might offset the dump fee. Or... I've seen some neat terminal trawlers, sprawlers, etc, and this looks like it would be a good hull for a project like that. It's fairly flat on the bottom and doesn't look like it'll roll wildly. The keel isn't too deep. And it's sitting on a trailer next to the house, so it's easy to work on in spare moments. What to do?
![kells 22 sailboat upchurchmr](https://www.boatdesign.net/data/avatars/s/41/41465.jpg?1494061673)
upchurchmr Senior Member
Believe those who say get rid of it. Cut off the keel with a masonary saw blade and a little caution. Sell the lead/ sailing bits (good luck, there are a lots around) If you want to avoid dump fees, use the same saw blade to cut up small chunks to put in the trash, for the next year or so.
Here's a pic of the rotten plywood and the fiberglass skin peeling up.
Attached Files:
Img_0909.jpg.
Another pic of where this came from. I wish garbage collection was free, we pay to put a tag on every can, so the dump might actually be cheaper.
IMG_0911.jpg
![kells 22 sailboat PAR](https://www.boatdesign.net/data/avatars/s/36/36616.jpg?1494051336)
PAR Yacht Designer/Builder
The fixed shoal version, which is what I think you have: This could be converted into a harbor launch, a putt putt or a displacement power cruiser, but it's a bit of work. Draft is just 28" and the ballast is about 700 pounds, in the bottom of the fin. Hack out what's bad, make a simple sidedeck to support the sheer, maybe a small cuddy cabin with a helm on the aft bulkhead. A new cockpit sole and a 9.9 HP outboard mounted in the center of the transom.
![kells 22 sailboat SukiSolo](https://www.boatdesign.net/styles/default/xenforo/avatars/avatar_s.png)
SukiSolo Senior Member
Once again a rotten ply core!. This is a common problem on loads of boats and is primarily down to 1. Ply quality, mostly exterior or interior not marine and 2. The ply has not been sealed with resin prior to glassing in and 3. Fasteners put in or through, that allow water into the core ie unsealed holes. It happens in boats 5 or 6 years old, let alone older. In fact those photos show recognisable ply as opposed to the 'dust' I found in the footwell of a 10 year old 2.4 Meter recently!. PAR has it right, chop out the rotten stuff and replan it or jigsaw it into litle bits and dump. If the basic hull is still good and stiff despite minor areas of core repair it maybe worth doing. If the hull is soft in many places, I would be wary ofmaking it seaworthy. Ask someone local (and knowledgeable) who can get a 'hands on' feel of the boat in a non judgemental way ie will tell it as it is. Most likely, not worth any yard touching but as a personal project doable but only if the hull shell is sound.
Par, your design brief is exactly what I had in mind. I would cut the top off at the sheer and install wide side decks over them. A cuddy would be a from-scratch design, there is nothing worth keeping. An outside helm seems necessary on a boat this size to get the most room in the cabin. Although I'm also considering a tiller outboard, leaving the vee berth as a casting deck and a huge and uncluttered self-bailing deck for the rest of the boat. Putt putt workboat of sorts. Suki, thanks for the details. I'll pull out what I can and get someone to inspect the outer hull.
I would recommend you use remote steering and controls, as the boat's balance wouldn't like you standing at it's stern with a tiller steer setup. These are easy to rig as a home made system, or you could spring for a factory made system. Forget about standing headroom, unless it's under a soft dodger of some sort (bimini). Weight things as you cut and remove them, so you know how much weight you can put back.
It begins
It's important to support the boat properly , before you remove too much structure, as the hull can distort and ruin it's shape. This often is simple a set of female station molds, say 3 or 4 along the length of the boat, attached to the trailer or building cradle. This will insure the boat can rest in a set of shapes, similar to what it's suppose to be. Plywood or exterior rated OSB will do, with a few stringers (1x2's, 2x4's, etc.) between them, to help hold up unsupported areas and keep the molds in alignment. The deck cap will require some force to remove, unless you cut the flange. I don't recommend cutting this flange, because it offers a great deal of stiffness to the sheer. Cut the cap, remove the bulk of it, then slice off the cap's flange, leaving the hulls portion intact. This remaining flange will help a lot in attaching new sidedecks. For a powerboat, you'll want two longitudinal stringers (1x6's) from the transom, running as far forward as the hull will permit (likely ending near the aft face of a V berth). They'll sit on edge and be "tabbed" to the hull shell about 12" to either side of the centerline. The hull looks like it had a vertical element in this location anyway, so it'll want this support. Over these stringers, you'll install the plywood sole plates, glued and screwed to the stringers and a perimeter cleat, tabbed to the hull shell along the edges. Of course make some access and permit drainage with weep holes, any place water can collect. Tabbing should be a least a few layers of 45/45 biax, with a 4" overlap as minimum.
I was going to cut the cap and keep both flanges, and install side decks on top. I'm not sure why I would remove the cap flange? My local lumber store has Meranti in 1/2" and 3/4", but other sizes will be a special order and very expensive. So I'm thinking to use 1/2" marine ply doubled up for the stringers. Will I need cross braces perpendicular to the stringers, and if so, at what intervals? There were no stringers or vertical structures here, just a plywood sub-floor that rotted out. Maybe the centerboard model had supports, but the fixed keel version has nothing. All of the molded-in furniture was suspended off the hull and not providing structure to the hull in any way. The hull layup is surprisingly stiff, and I wonder if I'll need molds. The sole I can do out of 3/4" Meranti, I want it solid like walking on a dock. I'm assuming the cleats can be out of 1x1s, but then I wouldn't want to screw through that, right? What about not screwing, just gluing down with epoxy and weighting with sand bags? Will three overlapping layers of 6" 6oz biax be enough, or would you use 12oz on the stringers? Many thanks!
The deck cap flange may be glued in position, though considering the era of the boat, it's probably just screwed together with sheet metal screws over a bed of butyl rubber sealant. On a boat this age, the screws and/or the sealant should be questioned, which is why I recommended removing it. Though the "liner" seems to not have been supporting anything, I'm sure it was, certainly by way of athwart stiffness. Yes, the liner does seem to float in space, but all the curves and angles within it, are attached at the rail, greatly stiffening it up. 3/4" plywood for a sole on this size boat is considerably more then you need. 3/8" to 1/2" is all it takes. A 1x1 doesn't have much contact area, let alone sufficient depth to receive a screw. Use a 1x2, glued on the flat around the perimeter of the sole, beveling the top so it lands flush. Once glued, tab this sole perimeter cleat on with at least 2 layers of 12 ounce biax. If you want solid, use closely spaced supports under the sole (16" is good, but 24" is more common). These can be 1/4" plywood, tabbed to the hull shell. These supports and two longitudinal stringers I mentioned, make a bit of an "egg crate" sort of deal under the sole, which is stiff and light. It's usually necessary to glue a 1x2 along the top edge of these, so you have a wide enough area for gluing the sole. Screws aren't necessary, but can be handy as temporary fasteners as the goo cures. 6 ounce biax is for canoes and kayaks. Use 12 ounce. Also avoid the combo fabrics, like 1208, as they are biax stitched to mat, which just wastes resin and adds little strength.
From looking at the inside and outside, it appears the top cap was epoxied at the flange. Good news, one less thing to remove. I'm going to cut out a good chunk of the cap tomorrow.
That's the classic "shoe box" flange (the weakest, but most common type) and it appears to be polyurethane, not epoxy. The polyurethane will be hard, but you can dent it with a fingernail pushed in firmly. I'd still remove the deck cap portion of the flange, if only to insure it's not going to leak (pretty common on this type of flange). The fastener spacing seems pretty skimpy too, so random leaks would be a reasonably assessment on a boat this old. To remove the old polyurethane, after the screws are pulled, a hot knife or my preferred method, a hot hacksaw blade. I have a hacksaw blade I've attached to a wooden handle and I heat it with a torch, then work it along the seam by hand. This allows me to feel what's getting cut and the glowing hot blade slides right through the cured goo.
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Well it's good that one of us knows what he's doing. I'll make a tool like this and report back.
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New Owner of a Kells 23 Coastal Cruiser
- Thread starter ahostler
- Start date Nov 22, 2019
- Forums for All Owners
- Ask All Sailors
Good afternoon. I just purchased a 73 Kells 23 Coastal Cruiser. It is in pretty good shape, it does have some fiberglass work that needs done, but nothing too crazy. It has the sink and it is intact, but i cant find the fresh water storage tanks. Does anyone know where they were stored in this boat. the drain hose, and the supply hose are both located under the sink, but there are no water tanks. Thanks in advance
![kells 22 sailboat jssailem](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/data/avatars/m/127/127717.jpg?1706471216)
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
ahostler said: the drain hose, ..... located under the sink, Click to expand
Thanks Jssailem. I will post pictures this weekend. I did not see a fill hole on the deck, but there are several places in the cabin that could store water. I was worried about the tank placement, i didn't want to put the weight of the water tanks in the wrong spot. I do have storage under the Vbirth, order the sink itself, or under either of the bench seats in the cabin. again, i will post pictures this weekend to get some good opinions as to where to place them. Thanks again
Are you installing a sink? Sailing in fresh water or salt. Perhaps you do not want a sink. All depends on how you are going to use the boat. On my M15 trailer boat, I used a dish pan avoiding the all the sink issues of water storage and disposal. It was camping like back packing. Drinking water was carried in a 5 gallon thermos (like you see on a contractors rig). There are many ways to keep the boat light and trailerable.
we are going to use it like a camper, but my wife is going to want water. It will be used for long weekends, and some day sailing. I think we are going to slip it at the lake we bought it from, so it will mostly be used in fresh water, but i am sure if my wife has her way, it will make trips to salt water. Salt water kind of makes her relax a bunch.
A relaxed wife makes a sailor happy. So you are going to install water storage and a pressure system. Thinking cold fresh water. I am going to bet you are designing a first of it's kind, for the Kells 23 owner group. In most modern boats Pex is used to design a water system. A pressure pump, available at many on line retailers, provides the water pressure. Any faucet that fits your decor can be used. Unlikely, you want to add a hot water system, as that would entail a 2 tank storage system. Easier to boil water to heat it.
![kells 22 sailboat Justin_NSA](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/data/avatars/m/76/76693.jpg?1524773847)
A pressurized system is going to take some work. My Mac 26S had a jug under the sink that ran to a hand actuated pump faucet. It was simple and worked greata
that was the general idea, but i did kick around the idea of installing a propane tankless hot water system. they are very inexpensive, and look like it would do a nice job. it would not require 2 tanks, and could be hidden pretty easily. the one i found can be mounted inside the cabin, according to the manufacturer, and only requires D batteries to spark the igniter. we will see, i am a long way from that.
![kells 22 sailboat Jeff Miller](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/data/avatars/m/140/140168.jpg?1699659928)
Jeff Miller
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A boat with a BN of 1.6 or greater is a boat that will be reefed often in offshore cruising. Derek Harvey, "Multihulls for Cruising and Racing", International Marine, Camden, Maine, 1991, states that a BN of 1 is generally accepted as the dividing line between so-called slow and fast multihulls.
Just wanted to show this thing off. I have it in NC right now, im gonna be bringing it up to jersey next year, so I can go out on it more.Its a 1978 Kells 22...
On one brochure, Raymond F. Kells is listed as president. Kells was national sales manager for Bristol Yachts before founding his own company. ... Sailboats Built By Kells Corp. (USA) (Dates indicate when boat was first built by any builder) Sort by: ... KELLS 22: 22.17 ft / 6.76 m: 1971: KELLS 23: 22.58 ft / 6.88 m: 1971: KELLS 23 (COASTER 23 ...
Kells preowned sailboats for sale by owner. Kells used sailboats for sale by owner. Home. Register & Post. View All Sailboats. Search. Avoid Fraud. ... 30' Etchells 22 Nautical Donations Crowleys Yacht Yard 3434 E 95th St Chicago Il 60617, Illinois Asking $12,000. 39' Irwin Citation 39 Stonington, Connecticut
New Jersey. $2,000. Description: Beautiful sailboat. Very rare 22' foot Kells Corp cutter rig, swing keel (awesome!) sailing hours on the bay and ocean, and lots of love put into her. She does her job and is tried and true. Not much is documented of the 1978 Kells Corp 22' Sailboat, we could never find a manual or prints although, there was a ...
KELLS CORP preowned sailboats for sale by owner. KELLS CORP used sailboats for sale by owner. Home. Register & Post. View All Sailboats. Search. Avoid Fraud. ... 30' Etchells 22 Nautical Donations Crowleys Yacht Yard 3434 E 95th St Chicago Il 60617, Illinois Asking $12,000. 39' Irwin Citation 39 Stonington, Connecticut
A sailboat company operating through the 1970s, Kells Corporation was a Rhode Island-based business. Creating fiberglass sailing yachts of 22 and 23 feet in length, Kells Corporation disappeared after the 1980 model year.
The Kells 23 is a 22.92ft fractional sloop designed by Paul A. Lindh and built in fiberglass by Kells Corp. (USA) between 1971 and 1980. The Kells 23 is a light sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is reasonably stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat.
Kells 23 is a 22′ 11″ / 7 m monohull sailboat designed by Paul A. Lindh and built by Kells Corp. between 1971 and 1980. ... The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more. Formula. D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³ D: Displacement of the boat in pounds. LWL: Waterline ...
my friend just bought a Kells and put it in the water got a leak how do we find it and fix 1971 Kells 22 ft sailboat previous owner had no problems but may...
250. San Diego. Mar 24, 2017. #5. Hi Tempest. sounds like you are looking for 22-25ft trailerable. This group will give you thousands of boats to consider that are a better bet than a Kells. Think about what you want the boat for, even if not racing a faster boat is more fun to sail than a slow one.
Like. sailingdog. 43281 posts · Joined 2006. #6 · Sep 10, 2007. Might try contacting the following regarding the Kells 23, as he was listed as the US contact for information about the boat on the GOB forums. Lee Fox. 144 Raymond Lane. Five Oaks Village Lot 12. Middletown, PA 17057-3064.
Your search returned 3 matches of 98570 sailboats posted to date. Sort by: Length Year Price Added KELLS CORP KELLS23
A friend gave me a Kells 23 sailboat, it's a bit like a Catalina 22, but with a glassed-in 750 lb shoal draft keel. I had the boat checked out at the marina (unfortunately after doing the registration paperwork), and the mechanic said I should throw it away. Some hardware at the bow was removed and water intruded and rotted the balsa core decks.
This pic is from another Kells 23. If so, then it is a simple hinge and there should be nothing keeping your mast from folding back. But if something slid down the mast and is holding yours up, it is not supposed to be there. You may need to take a flat head screw driver or something and pry it up. Once the mast is down, you may need figure out ...
kells 23 coastal curiser it is a trailerable boat. Nov 22, 2019. #1. Good afternoon. I just purchased a 73 Kells 23 Coastal Cruiser. It is in pretty good shape, it does have some fiberglass work that needs done, but nothing too crazy. It has the sink and it is intact, but i cant find the fresh water storage tanks.
23'4' Edey and Duff Stone Horse 23 East Marion, New York Asking $11,500
For trade or for sale (project restore) 1979 KELLS 22'7" Sailboat with Shoreline tilt bed boat trailer for trade or sale asking 2,200 or best offer Call or text me at 23one580nine460 show contact info Message me for more information or details Serious Inquiries only please and thank you. post id: 7759163924.
TWO RIVERS, Wis. (WBAY) - The Two Rivers Fire Department says everyone is okay after a boat sunk off the city's coast. Just before 10:00 on Sunday morning, fire officials received a report of a ...
22.58 ft / 6.88 m: LWL: ... Sister to the The Kells 23, The Kells 23.5 has 0.5 ft more draft. Kells Corp. was located in Tiverton, RI, USA. ... Like the LWL, it will vary with the weights of fuel, water, stores and equipment. A boat's actual draft is usually somewhat more than the original designed or advertised draft. For boats with ...
CLT, seeking State Pier space, is a commercial marine service provider to the expanding offshore wind industry, and marine industry in the Northeast.
A search will resume this morning after two people were ejected into the water following a boating incident on Sodus Bay in the town of Sodus, according to the Wayne County Sheriff's Office.
A boat with a BN of 1.6 or greater is a boat that will be reefed often in offshore cruising. Derek Harvey, "Multihulls for Cruising and Racing", International Marine, Camden, Maine, 1991, states that a BN of 1 is generally accepted as the dividing line between so-called slow and fast multihulls.
22.58 ft / 6.88 m: LWL: ... Fixed keel variant of the KELLS 23 was actually advertised as the COASTER 23. (also trailerable). ... Like the LWL, it will vary with the weights of fuel, water, stores and equipment. A boat's actual draft is usually somewhat more than the original designed or advertised draft. For boats with adjustable keels ...