how much is a yacht master 2 rolex

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Hands-On The Rolex Yachtmaster II Regatta Timer, Ref. 116680

The rolex yacht-master ii: for those who consider themselves rolex enthusiasts, it's one of the most polarizing watches the crown produces. and yet there is more – much more – to this relative behemoth than meets the eye. we wanted to see what would happen if we met this technically unique, programmable flyback yacht timer chronograph on its own terms – read on to join us in our journey into one of the most idiosyncratically styled and mechanically sophisticated rolexes ever made..

I’m going to be completely honest: I was thoroughly prepared to have a negative reaction to this watch. Let’s face it; it’s a head-scratcher for the average Rolex/Submariner/GMT Master/Day-Date lover. First of all it’s pretty damned big. This is a 44 mm watch; it was born a 44 mm watch and it’ll die a 44 mm watch and that is nothing you or anybody else can do about it. You can have it in four different metals, and therefore, weights, ranging from steel (heavy) to gold/steel (heavier) to solid yellow gold (even heavier) to  platinum and white gold combined (Schwarzeneggerian). It has a Cerachrom bezel in an absolutely screaming shade of blue, and it says YACHT-MASTER in giant letters right across the bottom third or so just to remove any lingering shade of doubt in the minds of any small-craft skipper for leagues around that they are in the presence of, well, the Master of a Yacht; it is not an introverted watch by any stretch of the imagination.

On top of everything else, the Yacht-Master II has a complication that pretty much no watch guy or gal ever can remember what do with, or has a perceived need for: it is a regatta timer, which is about as niche a complication as you can imagine. If you get a bunch of watch nuts together there is an excellent chance that you can get a more lucid explanation out of somebody for the Equation of Time than you can for a regatta timer (which is saying something) and it says something about the relative obscurity of the complication in general, and the relative niche-ness of the Yacht-Master II in particular, that when we got it into the office we had five people who live and breathe watches sitting around scratching our heads because no one could quite remember how the darned thing works. You put all those things together and you should have a watch that a dyed-in-the-wool horological classicist should thoroughly disdain. Right?

Actually, wrong. But let’s back up a bit.

First of all this is technically a very interesting watch and it’s worth your attention just on the level of interesting horological problem solving alone. A regatta timer is used by the skipper of a yacht to determine when their vessel is allowed to cross the starting line. Sailboats can’t just hover at the starting line of a yacht race, so what happens is that the racing committee establishes a countdown period during which the boats have to tack back and forth at the starting line without actually crossing; if you cross early, there is a penalty and if you are too cautious and cross late you will probably cross the finish line behind the boats that made it over the start line ahead of you. The countdown can be anywhere from five to ten minutes depending on the rules and race.

The Yacht-Master II is a programmable, flyback regatta timer that allows you to select a countdown interval of anything from one to ten minutes; in addition if you have started the countdown early or late, you can synchronize your watch “on the fly” when you hear the second of the two audible signals which are usually given at the start of a race (the signal to start the countdown comes first, and is usually followed by a warning signal closer to the start). Here’s how it works.

To set the countdown timer, you turn the bezel (Rolex calls it the "Command Bezel") a quarter turn to the left. This locks the lower chrono pusher and engages the setting mechanism for the triangular red countdown hand. You then unscrew the crown to its first position, and set the countdown hand – setting is one-way only but at 10 minutes, if you continue to turn the crown, the countdown hand will fly back to 1 and you can continue until you reach the desired number of minutes. When you’re done, you screw the crown back down, and turn the bezel back to its starting position, and you’re ready to regatta.

When the first gun (or other audible signal) is heard, you start the countdown . . . and that’s it. Now a really neat trick here is that you may, for some reason, have started your countdown too early, or too late. If that’s the case, all you have to do is wait for the second gun/signal, and hit the re-set button – the seconds hand will fly back to the zero mark and begin running again immediately; and the minute countdown hand will fly back to the nearest minute and likewise start counting down again. It’s the fact that the flyback is to the nearest minute, not to zero, that allows you to re-synch your countdown with the official countdown time, that gives the Yacht-Master II much of its utility, and much of its technical interest.

Okay, sure it’s technically interesting – but what about the aesthetics? All I can tell you is that, much to my very pleasant surprise, it was colossally fun to wear in every sense of the word. The fact that it is so unapologetically extroverted is actually the secret to its appeal.  The weight isn't a problem (at least, not for me, and not in steel) and I found I could wear it all day without discomfort despite the overall size – partly thanks to the downward curvature of the lugs, which ensured a comfortable fit on my 7 inch wrist.  The sharply contrasting deep blued hands, white dial, and red countdown hand – and, yes, that bright blue bezel – give the whole watch a suitably jaunty, nautical feel and make it a pleasure to look at (and at night visibility is very good; the lume on the hands and dial is almost startlingly bright).

Yes, this is an extroverted watch, but the quality of execution is very clean and very high (as is usually the case with Rolex) and it’s so much the opposite of what I’d ordinarily wear that having it on gave a feeling almost like a Walter Mitty fantasy coming to life. I felt like a guy who’s worn a blue suit and rep tie and driven a four door Merc his whole life, who somehow one day finds himself in a pair of ripped jeans and a beat up flight jacket, cruising down some winding secondary road on an old shovelhead Harley, and suddenly catches himself thinking, My god, all the wasted years. Ultimately I started to feel that objecting to the over-the-top-ness  of the Yacht-Master II was silly, even narcissistic – if you go into a Joss Whedon actioner expecting a Lars Von Trier art-house tearjerker to unspool, you probably have only yourself to blame.

It is a rationally appealing uitlitarian tool watch? I'm not the one to ask. There is no way for me to evaluate what someone who actually owns a ’36 Herreshoff classic yacht and takes it on the regatta circuit would actually think of the Yacht-Master II, or whether they would find it useful. But I can tell you that it is actually a ton of fun to wear, and a big part of the reason is the very thing many object to at first – that this is a watch that pulls no punches when it comes to being larger than life.

It has that one most essential element for something to be a successful style exercise: the courage of its convictions, and if you think of yourself resolutely as a smaller-than-forty millimeter, tasteful restraint kinda guy, get one on your wrist for a surprisingly refreshing change of pace, and you can feel larger than life too.

The Rolex Yacht-Master II 116680 as shown, $18,750, 44 mm diameter case in 904L stainless steel. Bidirectional rotatable "Command Bezel" with blue Cerachrom insert; water resistance 100 meters/10 bar.

Movement, Rolex 4161 self-winding programmable flyback regatta timer with mechanical memory and "on-the-fly" synchronization; Parachrom blue antimagnetic balance spring.  

Bracelet, Oyster, flat three piece links with Oysterlock safety clasp.

More info, of course, on Rolex.com .

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Rolex Yacht-Master

• Yacht-Master
• Yacht-Master II
• Rolex 16622
• Rolex 168622
• $7,000 to $10,000
• $10,000 to $15,000
• $15,000 to $20,000
• Stainless Steel
• Yellow Gold
• 2010 to Present

• $ 11,995 Buy
• Get Quote Sell

• $ 23,995 Buy

• $ 22,495 Buy

• $ 14,295 Buy

• $ 14,595 Buy

• $ 8,495 Buy

• $ 12,795 Buy

• $ 24,495 Buy

• $ 29,995 Buy

• $ 9,195 Buy

• $ 32,295 Buy

• $ 7,995 Buy

• $ 8,995 Buy

• $ 14,495 Buy

• $ 31,995 Buy

• $ 8,695 Buy

• $ 9,995 Buy

• $ 14,995 Buy

• $ 13,995 Buy

• $ 26,295 Buy

• $ 25,995 Buy

• $ 12,295 Buy

• $ 23,495 Buy

Cash wire prices shown. Prices may be higher if other payment methods are selected.*

About The Rolex Yacht-Master

The Rolex Yacht-Master made its debut in 1992, designed specifically for sailors and yachting enthusiasts. With its unique features and striking appearance, the Yacht-Master quickly became a symbol of excellence in the sailing world. Over the years, Rolex has continued to refine and improve the Yacht-Master, introducing new materials, sizes, and complications to meet the evolving needs of sailors and watch aficionados alike. To learn more about the fascinating history of this iconic timepiece, explore our in-depth article on the Rolex Yacht-Master history .

Rolex Yacht-Master Features

The Rolex Yacht-Master boasts an impressive array of features that set it apart from other luxury watches. Our Rolex Yacht-Master review dives into the details that make the Yacht-Master a true icon in the world of horology.

At the heart of the Yacht-Master lies a self-winding mechanical movement, ensuring precise and reliable timekeeping. The Rolex Yacht-Master movement is certified as a Superlative Chronometer, undergoing rigorous testing to guarantee its accuracy and performance. With its rigorous testing and certification, the Rolex Yacht-Master movement stands as a pinnacle of horological excellence, meeting the demands of both luxury and performance.

The Yacht-Master features a distinctive bidirectional rotatable bezel, which allows sailors to measure elapsed time and synchronize with regatta starting times. The Rolex Yacht-Master bezel is crafted from precious metals or Cerachrom, Rolex's proprietary ceramic material, offering durability and resistance to scratches and fading. Crafted from premium materials such as precious metals or Rolex's innovative Cerachrom ceramic, the Yacht-Master bezel not only ensures durability but also maintains its pristine appearance over time, making it a hallmark of both function and luxury.

Whether opting for a more understated or commanding presence, there's a Yacht-Master size to complement every individual style and comfort level. The Rolex Yacht-Master size is available in a range to suit different preferences and wrist sizes:

• Diameter: The Rolex Yacht-Master diameter comes in 37mm, 40mm, and 42mm options 
• Dimensions: The Rolex Yacht-Master dimensions vary based on the model 
• Lug to Lug: The Rolex Yacht-Master lug to lug distance is proportional to the case size 
• Lug Width: The Rolex Yacht-Master lug width is compatible with various strap options 

Complementing its sophisticated design, the Yacht-Master presents a selection of Rolex Yacht-Master band options, ranging from classic Oyster bracelets to supple rubber straps, providing both versatility and refinement to match any occasion or personal style preference. The Yacht-Master offers several Rolex Yacht-Master band options to complement its elegant design:

• Bracelet: Oyster and Oysterflex Rolex Yacht-Master bracelet options provide comfort and durability 
• Leather Band: A Rolex Yacht-Master leather band is a sophisticated choice for a more formal look 
• Rubber Strap: A Rolex Yacht-Master rubber strap is ideal for water activities and a sporty aesthetic 
• NATO Strap: A Rolex Yacht-Master NATO strap is a versatile and trendy option for a casual style 

The Rolex Yacht-Master dial is available in various colors, including white, black, champagne, and mother-of-pearl. Embodying both style and functionality, the Rolex Yacht-Master dial ensures effortless readability in any environment. The dial features luminescent hands and hour markers for optimal legibility in any lighting condition.

Water Resistance

With a Rolex Yacht-Master water resistance of 100 meters (330 feet), the watch is suitable for swimming, snorkeling, and other water activities. Yacht-Master's water resistance adds to its allure as a trusted companion for seaside escapades. Whether cruising the waves or lounging by the pool, this timepiece combines elegance with durability, ensuring style and functionality in every aquatic endeavor. However, it is not recommended for deep-sea diving.

Yacht-Master Rolex Price

Investing in Excellence The price range for Yacht-Master models varies depending on factors such as size, materials, and complications. Pre-owned Rolex Yacht-Master watches offer an excellent opportunity to own a piece of horological history at a more accessible price point. When considering a Yacht-Master, it's essential to familiarize yourself with the Rolex Yacht-Master model numbers, as they can provide valuable information about the watch's features and production year.

disc. = discontinued

Rolex Yacht-Master Models

The Rolex Yacht-Master collection offers a range of models to suit different tastes and preferences. Let's explore the main Yacht-Master models:

Yacht-Master 37

The Yacht-Master 37 is the smallest model in the collection, perfect for those with smaller wrists or those who prefer a more understated look. Ideal for those seeking a more petite option without compromising on performance, the Yacht-Master 37 offers a perfect blend of elegance and functionality in a compact design. Despite its smaller size, the Yacht-Master 37 retains all the impressive features and functionality of its larger counterparts.

Yacht-Master 40

The Yacht-Master 40 is the quintessential model in the collection, offering a balance between presence and wearability. This model is available in a variety of materials, including stainless steel, yellow gold, white gold, and Everose gold, allowing you to choose the perfect combination to suit your style. Whether navigating the open seas or enjoying a leisurely day onshore, this timepiece embodies the spirit of adventure with elegance and ease.

Yacht-Master 42

Crafted with precision and attention to detail, the Yacht-Master 42 combines luxurious aesthetics with rugged durability, embodying the spirit of adventure on both land and sea. As the largest model in the Yacht-Master collection, the Yacht-Master 42 makes a bold statement on the wrist. With its increased size, the Yacht-Master 42 offers enhanced legibility and a more substantial presence, ideal for those who prefer a more prominent timepiece.

Popular Rolex Yacht-Master Comparisons

When considering a Rolex Yacht-Master, it's natural to compare it with other popular Rolex models and even watches from other luxury brands. Comparing the Rolex serial numbers can also be a helpful way to understand the differences between various models. Let's look at some common comparisons:

Rolex Yacht-Master vs. Submariner

When comparing the Rolex Yacht-Master vs Submariner , both are nautical-inspired watches, but the Submariner is designed primarily for diving, while the Yacht-Master is tailored to the needs of sailors and yachting enthusiasts. Both the Yacht-Master and Submariner exemplify Rolex's commitment to excellence in both form and function, offering impeccable performance and timeless style.

Rolex Yacht-Master vs. Yacht-Master II

In the comparison of the Rolex Yacht-Master vs Yacht-Master II , the Yacht-Master II is a more complex timepiece, featuring a programmable countdown with a mechanical memory and on-the-fly synchronization. The Yacht-Master, on the other hand, is a more straightforward and versatile watch, suitable for both on and off the water.

Rolex Yacht-Master vs. Sea-Dweller

When looking at the Rolex Yacht-Master vs Sea-Dweller, the Sea-Dweller is a professional diving watch with a water resistance of up to 4,000 feet (1,220 meters), while the Yacht-Master is designed for sailing and water activities with a water resistance of up to 330 feet (100 meters).

Rolex Yacht-Master vs. Omega Seamaster

When comparing luxury watch brands, the Omega vs. Rolex debate often arises. While both brands offer exceptional timepieces, the Rolex Yacht-Master and the Omega Seamaster cater to different preferences and styles. Ultimately, the choice between the Yacht-Master and Seamaster comes down to personal preference, with Rolex appealing to those who value tradition and prestige, while Omega appeals to enthusiasts seeking innovation and versatility.

Expert Opinion

"The Rolex Yacht-Master is a striking maritime watch that combines high style and functionality in a single package. The collection features a resilient waterproof case, a clean and legible dial, and a rotatable bezel with 60-minute graduations. With its innovative design and phenomenal performance, the Rolex Yacht-Master is a prime investment for anyone looking for a top-of-the-line luxury watch."

- Paul Altieri, Founder and CEO of Bob's Watches

Testimonials

Nathaniel g..

"I had wanted a Yacht-Master for as long as I could remember, but could never justify the high price of buying new. Once I realized that buying pre-owned might be a smarter option, I searched around the internet, but only Bob's Watches made me feel comfortable with making such a large purchase online. I understood their business model, and past customers' reviews were very positive. The prices were competitive as well, and rivaled those of less-trustworthy dealers. Once I made my choice, there was a slight hiccup in the process to wire funds, but when I called in, the problem was quickly resolved.

I received my watch a few days later, and it looked stunning. When the site says "mint condition," it means it! Bob's was also able to tell me when the watch was last serviced, which (in combination with the one-year warranty) gives me peace-of-mind. As I look to expand my collection of watches, I'm sure I'll be a repeat customer of Bob's Watches."

Review originally published on Trustpilot

"I have been shopping for the Rolex Yachtmaster for the better part of a year. I visited multiple jewelers & brokers in my area. Either they were of poor condition or over priced. Then I found Bobs Watches. The staff was expeditious and courteous. They sent me new photos of the watch upon request with no hesitation. The service, price, and condition of the watch was without compare. I am now a lifelong customer of Bobs Watches, I cannot imagine buying from any other source."

Review originally published on Google

Sell Your Rolex

Unlock the value of your treasured timepiece by selling your Rolex with Bob's Watches. Our expert team handles each watch with utmost care and professionalism. With our seamless and trusted process, we ensure your experience is top-notch. Parting with your luxury watch becomes as effortless and rewarding as the moments it has tracked for you. Get started today by visiting our Sell Rolex watch page.

Why Choose Us

Bob's Watches is a trusted and established purveyor of pre-owned Rolex watches with decades of experience. We promise a 100% satisfaction guarantee, ensuring that customers are fully satisfied with their purchase or they can return it for a full refund. With a team of specialists who authenticate and examine each watch, and fair pricing on a large inventory of models, Bob's Watches is a reliable option for those looking to buy a pre-owned Rolex watch.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a good rolex yacht-master alternative.

While the Yacht-Master is a unique timepiece, some alternatives include the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra and the Panerai Luminor Yachts Challenge.

How to set date on Rolex Yacht-Master?

To set the date on your Yacht-Master, pull the crown out to the first notch and turn it clockwise until the correct date appears in the window.

How to tell if Rolex Yacht-Master is real?

To ensure the authenticity of your Yacht-Master, it's essential to purchase from a reputable dealer and familiarize yourself with the watch's features. Our guide on how to spot a fake Rolex can help you identify potential red flags.

How to wind a Rolex Yacht-Master?

To wind your Yacht-Master, unscrew the crown and turn it clockwise about 30 times. This will fully wind the mainspring and ensure optimal performance.

Is Rolex Yacht-Master a good investment?

Rolex watches, including the Yacht-Master, have a strong history of holding their value and even appreciating over time, making them a solid investment for watch enthusiasts.

Is Rolex Yacht-Master waterproof?

The Yacht-Master is water-resistant up to 100 meters (330 feet), suitable for swimming and snorkeling but not recommended for deep-sea diving.

Is Rolex Yacht-Master hard to get?

The availability of the Yacht-Master can vary depending on the specific model and demand. Some models may be more readily available than others, but working with a trusted dealer like Bob's Watches can help you find your perfect Yacht-Master.

What is the wait time for a Rolex Yacht-Master?

Wait times for a Yacht-Master can vary depending on the model and availability. However, purchasing a pre-owned Yacht-Master from Bob's Watches can often reduce wait times and provide more immediate access to your desired timepiece.

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• How Rolex Became King: A Brief History of the World’s Most-Renowned Watchmaker

Rolex became the dominant industrial watchmaker through a series of eccentric, and effective, business practices.

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Rolex is the first—and often the only—watch brand people think of when it comes to high-end timepieces. But beyond that instant recognition, Rolex has become a broad cultural touchstone with symbolic meaning and social significance that speaks across cultures.

While such powerful branding may be ineffable on some level, it is possible to pinpoint the visionary strategies that put Rolex on the horological throne. Five of those strategies stand out: Rolex’s technical innovation, marketing é lan, design consistency, financial independence and selective scarcity have generated the company’s global presence in the hearts and minds of billions of people.

Technical Innovations

Demand for Rolex watches rose swiftly, and British taxes on the Swiss movements Rolex used prompted Wilsdorf to relocate the business to Geneva, Switzerland , in 1919. With production costs lowered, Wilsdorf set out to solve the problem of moisture and dust entering the watch case and damaging the movement. The Rolex team came up with a fully sealed watch case, which Wilsdorf dubbed the Oyster , and released it to much fanfare in 1926. During the 1920s this screwed-together device was so innovative that some consumers, who were accustomed to protecting their watches even from rain, were skeptical. It would take some marketing brilliance to convince the general population that the Oyster case was, indeed, waterproof.

Interestingly, the Oyster case structure is the reason for the fluted bezel found on so many Rolex models today. That bezel was fluted to receive an interlocking tool used to screw the bezel on and off of the mid-case. The caseback was similarly fluted for the same reasons, but like any caseback, it never became a dominant aesthetic cue. For decades, Rolex’s fluted bezels have served no function, and the fluting itself has become gently flared (more like waves than ridges) to the point where, even if one tried, no tool could interlock. As with other technical innovations from Rolex, the visual impact has long outlived its functionality to become a signature of the brand. Witness a professional tennis match , an international airport clock or a Rolex ad today and you’re guaranteed to see that gleaming fluted bezel doing nothing more than gleam. It’s an interesting case of form outliving function.

Despite Switzerland’s neutrality, WWII was challenging for the Swiss watch industry, and technological innovations aimed at the civilian market were few. Many watch companies retooled to focus on war contracts, which demanded simple, rugged watches for ground soldiers and pilots. Always the maverick with an eye on the long-game, Rolex only supplied a limited number of watches to the British military and otherwise marched forward with innovations for the civilian market. In 1945, Rolex released the Datejust. The Datejust was the first watch to have the date jump instantaneously at midnight, rather than taking hours to turn over as in most mechanical wristwatches. Legend has it that the name comes from the date jumping just before midnight.

After the war, Rolex was uniquely poised to supply an increasingly affluent civilian market that wanted futuristic products, and the brand found innovations. Rolex secured the patent for the date magnifier, or Cyclops , around 1950, and it appeared for the first time in 1953 on that year’s edition of the Datejust. To this day, no watch is as instantly recognizable as a Rolex with a Cyclops and a fluted bezel, making the Datejust, Day-Date and Sky-Dweller horological icons. By launching the Cyclops on the Datejust, Wilsdorf literally magnified one modernization with the other, a brilliant marketing move that capitalized on his well-honed instinct for titillating his customers with exclusive introductions.

Marketing Innovations

We can’t quite say that Wilsdorf invented the adventurous and athletic brand ambassador. Cartier’s watches adorned the wrists of famous pilots, and Jaeger LeCoultre’s Reverso were hot on the polo circuit. But Wilsdorf would repeatedly make sure his watches were on the wrists of some of the bravest people that accomplished some of the most daring feats of the day. Specifically, Wilsdorf understood that when someone sets a record, they’re going to make the papers, and setting records was a 20th-century obsession. With Rolex’s decidedly rugged, adventure-ready timepieces—which stood in stark contrast to what most watch brands were producing at the time—Wilsdorf could legitimately equip explorers and daredevils with expedition-ready timepieces.

Consumers were still highly skeptical of the Rolex Oyster’s ability to resist water. Wilsdorf put those doubts to rest by submerging Rolex Oysters in aquariums he had set up in the windows of high-traffic department stores such as Harrods , in London, while ads brought images of submerged Oysters to a much broader international customer base.

1933 – A Rolex flies over Mt. Everest at an altitude exceeding 33,000 feet with the first team to do so, as part of the Houston Expedition.

1935 – A Rolex sets the world record for land speed at 276 mph alongside celebrity driver Sir Malcolm Campbell. A few months later, he would break the 300 mph barrier at Bonneville Salt Flats, Utah.

1953 – A Rolex accompanies Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on the first successful summit of Mt. Everest. Rolex releases a version of that watch called the Explorer in the same year.

1955  – Rolex watches accompany the first commercial intercontinental flights. Rolex then equips Pan American pilots with GMT Masters.

1956 – US President Lyndon B. Johnson famously sports a Rolex Day-Date, and Rolex advertises heavily around the ensuing association with world leaders.

1956 – The Milgauss is proven to withstand a magnetic field measuring 1000 gauss at the CERN particle accelerator. Ads announcing this were targeted toward engineers and scientists.

1960 – A Rolex Deep Sea Special descends to the bottom of the Mariana Trench aboard the record-setting submarine Trieste , a feat that made the papers worldwide.

1963 – Rolex launches the Cosmograph Daytona, an automotive-specific chronograph, linking the brand interminably with one of the world’s most famous motorways.

1976 –  Celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Oyster, the Rolex Awards for Enterprise program is launched to award individuals who make significant contributions to improving the world in arenas from conservation to health. Rolex explains, “The awards were designed to fill a void in corporate philanthropy by supporting exceptional individuals around the world, pioneers who had no or little access to traditional funding and were responding to major challenges with original and innovative projects that advance human knowledge and well-being.”

1992 – Rolex launches the Yacht-Master and begins sponsoring yacht races that draw worldwide audiences to this day.

2002 – The Rolex Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative is initiated, which sponsors creative individuals in the arts, linking Rolex to a wide swath of artists, musicians, performers and architects. The cultural capital of these affiliations has, no doubt, some value for Rolex, but, as we shall explore below, may be more about fulfilling Wilsdorf’s vision for Rolex to become a true corporate benefactor.

Financial Independence & Not-For-Profit Status

What truly sets Wilsdorf apart from so many founders—and what sets Rolex apart from so many corporations—is that upon Wilsdorf’s death in 1960, ownership of Rolex S.A. (a conglomerate of interlinked sub-companies) passed to the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation (founded by Wilsdorf in 1945), the mission of which is simply to sustain Rolex S.A. indefinitely. Under Swiss law, Rolex does not pay taxes on its $4 billion annu al revenue, and because the corporate entities are private businesses, Rolex is not required to disclose any financial records. This arrangement makes Rolex’s business practices entirely opaque, yet it seems clear that Rolex’s contributions to its various charitable outlets (the aforementioned Awards for Enterprise and Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative) are significant. Both of those charities are managed by the Rolex Institute, a kind of parent charity that—assuming it is like most other not-for-profits—likely holds a significant endowment into which some portion of that $4 billion in revenue must go. Operational and development expenses would, of course, eat up a significant portion of the annual revenue as well.

Speculation aside, Rolex is uniquely positioned to do nothing more than sustain itself how it sees fit. There is no mandate to grow market share or to increase profits, and certainly, the company’s vision looks far afield of the current financial quarter. By setting up his legacy this way, Wilsdorf’s esoteric entrepreneurial spirit has outlived him, resulting in two business practices that would surely irk quarterly focused investors: ignoring trends and shorting supply.

Design Consistency

Blancpain, which actually issued the first dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms, one year ahead of Rolex, changed up its design according to the trends of the 1970s—a move that eventually shrunk Blancpain’s stature in the dive watch market to the point where the model was dropped from the catalog. In 2007, Blancpain revived the Fifty Fathoms in its original form, and these retro-styled models have now become a catalog staple. Audemars Piguet issued the Royal Oak in the 1970s , setting off a trend for luxurious steel sports watches that saw traditionalists like IWC and Patek Philippe chasing down this emerging market, with the Ingenieur and the Nautilus, respectively. Rolex responded by upping production of the Submariner, GMT Master and Daytona, but adhered to only making incremental mechanical improvements and modest tweaks to the original designs. Trends in dress watches began shifting rapidly in the 1990s, and Rolex did nearly nothing to respond, keeping most models as recognizable as ever.

Selective Scarcity

Perhaps the scarcity of classic Rolex steel professional models on the vintage market has inspired Rolex’s current practice of shorting demand for the modern versions. Or perhaps Rolex, like most luxury brands, is using scarcity to build an aura of exclusivity around their brand. Whatever the thinking, Rolex boutiques are bereft of specific steel versions of their professional models, namely the GMT Master, Submariner, Deep Sea, Explorer II, Sky-Dweller, the Yacht-Master I & II and especially the Daytona—but you’ll have an equally difficult time getting just about any watch from a Rolex dealer without joining a waiting list . The Explorer I and Air-King—often called entry-level Rolexes— are comparatively easy to get, and yet still difficult to find.

In short, Rolex now privileges their most loyal customers (read: those who spend the most), while a newcomer will most likely never get the call. It’s a psychology trick straight out of the Ferrari playbook, and it has only made Rolex that much more desirable among people of all kinds around the world.

It is ironic that Rolex has managed to create the air of exclusivity and luxury around watches that originally had the air of utility; these were tool watches that no well-dressed person in the 1950s and ’60s would wear outside of the job scenario for which these watches were created. It would have been solid-gold Day-Dates and Datejusts that went with a suit or evening gown. The irony mushrooms, as many watch aficionados express boredom with expensive gold Rolexes while heralding anyone who can obtain, say, a recent GMT Master in steel.

Clearly shorting this market has been working for Rolex, who could certainly bump up production of these models and sell them like hotcakes. But anyone who has walked into an authorized Rolex dealer and asked if they could get a steel Sky-Dweller or GMT Master will experience the ineffable aura of exclusivity that this practice wraps around the retail experience. Further, Rolex fans commiserating about the “unobtainium” watches generates a street-level buzz that most brands only dream of.

It’s hard to imagine that Rolex could get away with not meeting market demand if they were solely beholden to quarterly profits. Wilsdorf’s visionary long-game lives on in this practice, which seems to perfectly embody his innovative methods of generating buzz at any cost. Simultaneously, Rolex’s commitment to its original designs seems to have assured that Rolex watches will never go out of style, even as new materials and technologies slowly make their way into new models. Being eternally in vogue, more than anything, has assured that Rolex will remain king for the foreseeable future.

Allen is Robb Report's digital watch editor. His writing and photography have appeared in Fortune, Hodinkee, WatchTime, International Watch and many others. When he's not obsessing over vintage…

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8 Insider Tips for Buying Rolex Watches at Auction

B uying a  Rolex  watch at a Sotheby’s auction is not just an exciting experience – it’s also a reassuring one. Each watch that appears at Sotheby’s has been carefully sourced and inspected by our global network of  Rolex watch specialists . We want to ensure that all Sotheby's bidders, particularly those new to the process, are aware of the many benefits our auction format offers and feel well-informed. In this guide our specialists share their valuable insights into the ever-evolving Rolex market, in eight essential insider tips.

Sotheby’s watch auction s are an excellent way to build a watch collection, with  regular sales  throughout the year. Our specialists regularly curate some of the most exclusive and sought-after used Rolex watches. Highlights include numerous Rolex Daytona, GMT-Master and Submariner examples. Sotheby’s also maintains an excellent selection of classics models like the timeless Rolex Datejust and Day-Date Presidential – ensuring a Rolex for every taste and time.

Shop Rolex Watches

Each year, Sotheby’s watch auctions take place in Hong Kong, New York, Geneva, Paris and London, with most online sales lasting two weeks. You’ll find plenty of relevant facts, historical notes, expert insights and opinions on lot pages and in our Stories & Videos pages. Furthermore if you have any questions, our team of watch specialists can be contacted directly to find more about a specific Rolex watch or request additional images.

For those looking to purchase immediately Sotheby’s also has a wide range of high quality preowned Rolex watches online, curated by our Rolex specialists. Bid on Rolex watches  at auction, or shop  Rolex watches  for immediate shipping.

1. No Waiting Lists

There is no replacement for building a relationship with an authorized Rolex retailer, but because each Rolex model is hand-assembled and goes through rigorous quality control, oftentimes the watch you want may not be readily available. Fortunately, Sotheby’s regularly has iconic Rolex models available at auction. Recent auctions have included revered models like the Rolex Daytona Panda and Rolex GMT-Master Batman. Our Rolex watch specialists are meticulous in ensuring sound provenance, providing peace of mind for buyers. We also have a wide range of “waiting list” Rolex watches available for immediate purchase  online  and through our salons in New York, Geneva and London.

2. Own a Discontinued Model

For many the allure of buying a brand-new current model understandably endures. However many collectors also prize the rarity value of owning a discontinued Rolex watch from the past. For some it's even a specific year that has personal significance. It's perhaps akin to owning a great wine vintage; that feeling no more will be produced.

Collector favourites from the past include the Rolex Zenith Daytona, produced between 1988-2000 with a Zenith El Primero based calibre. Another insider favourite is the Rolex Sea-Dweller Double Red, a specialized tool watch that would serve as the precursor for the Rolex Sea-Dweller model. For those who admire aviation, it may be the Rolex GMT Coke that was favored by Chuck Yaeger.

Sotheby’s auctions allow buyers to choose from a wide range of past models, include rare and unusual examples, all checked by our Rolex vintage watch specialists. Sotheby's also provides a valuable research resource for buyers, listing  previous watch auctions  on our website including detailed descriptions and hammer prices. Potential buyers can also simply search for a particular model on our site to see all previous lots.

3. No Reserve Lots

Sotheby’s watch auctions frequently feature Rolex watches with no reserve. These often include vintage models like Rolex Datejust and characterful vintage models such as the Rolex Air-King. The opportunity to bid on a no-reserve lot means that anything can happen, representing an exceptionally compelling opportunity to own a properly vintage Rolex that has been fully vetted and curated by the Sotheby’s Watches team.

4. Character and Patina

A Rolex watch is built to last, and as many of them have aged over time they take on attractive and unique patination. Collectors prize the ability to have such a unique and distinctive timepiece, reflecting how the previous owner/s used and enjoyed it. One of the most sought after categories of vintage Rolex includes ‘tropical’ dials, where the black dial ages to a deep brown color with age and use. A famous example of this is the Rolex Patrizzi Daytona – where the silvery white sub-dials have faded to a dark brown.

5. Off-Catalogue Models

While Rolex has an incredible selection of watches, not every watch they produce is available in stores, or even in its official catalogue. Theis includes watches with special gem-set dials and bezels, like the Rolex Rainbow Daytona. Buying a Rolex at auction can open your collection up to these exclusive timepieces, securing a watch never officially offered to the public.

6. Historical Provenance

A Rolex advertisement said it best: “It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.” Sotheby’s auctions are known for consistently featuring watches with incredible historical ties, whether it's is a Rolex Submariner Comex that was used to rescue gold from a shipwreck, or Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona which he won at the 24 Hours of Daytona. An auction can sometimes be the only way to acquire such unique and incredible pieces of history.

7. Sotheby's Team of Rolex Specialists

For those who may be looking to purchase their first Rolex, Sotheby’s global team of Watch Specialists are here to help. While every watch featured has undergone curation and vetting by our team, we also supply detailed condition notes on every watch. With offices all around the world, there is always an opportunity to look at something in-person. You can also always contact a member of the Sotheby’s Watches team to answer specific questions you may have on a particular model.

8. Transparency

Rolex prices in the secondary market can be challenging to navigate, particularly for less common pre owned Rolex models. A Sotheby’s watch auction represents a highly transparent channel to buy – or sell. Many first-time auction buyers find the process not only exciting, but it also allows them to gauge interest and demand for their Rolex watch based on bidding patterns. Furthermore we ensure all sale (or “hammer”) prices are  disclosed on our website . The latter feature can be invaluable for first-time buyers researching Rolex price history. First-time buyers can also find the estimate guidance useful, representing the value range assigned by our expert watch specialists.

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LeBron James Sat Courtside in a Preposterously Rare Royal Oak

By Oren Hartov

The Lakers might’ve had a disappointing end to their postseason, but that hasn’t stopped LeBron James from finding big moments to strap on some of the best and rarest watches in the world.

During Game 4 of the Celtics-Cavs’ series, Bron was spotted courtside decked out in a prodigious amount of gold, the pièce de résistance of which was a supremely special version of Gérald Genta’s famed Royal Oak luxury sports watch. Carrying reference number 26521OR, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 41 Tourbillon Extra Thin is the RO you buy after you’ve exhausted all the more typical fare that most mortals still can’t buy—even if they can afford it. Housed in a 41mm 18K rose gold case, its bezel is set with 32 baguette-cut blue sapphires; its dial, meanwhile, ditches the classic Grand Tapisserie pattern found on many Royal Oaks in favor of a mesmerizing Tapisserie Evolutive pattern with baguette-cut ruby hour indices and rose gold hands.

Featuring a tourbillon set above 6 o’clock, the watch is powered by AP’s automatic Calibre 2924 movement with 69 hours of power reserve and 216 components. Beautifully decorated, it measures just 4.5mm tall, making for a total watch case height of only 9mm—and this despite the automatic winding rotor and tourbillon complication. Paired to an integrated rose gold bracelet with an AP-signed folding clasp, the 26521OR isn’t the type of timepiece you can stroll into a boutique and walk out with—even if you have the several hundred thousand dollars needed to secure one.

King James, of course, is no stranger to Audemars Piguet : Previously a brand ambassador, he’s even worked with the maison on a limited-edition model, and he’s worn plenty of notable watches during press conferences and courtside—this diamond-studded Offshore , for example; or this openworked Offshore ; or this yellow-gold Royal Oak . (If we look beyond AP, the array of wild pieces is even more striking: a Richard Mille RM 11-03 ; a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126509 ; a flashy Yacht-Master with an iced-out dial .) Heck, one could conceivably found a museum of high-end horological hits and special-edition watches based solely on the man’s collection.

But back to the Royal Oak for a moment. It’s certainly come a long way since its 1972 debut following a conversation between famed watch designer Gérald Genta and AP’s then-managing director George Golay, who told him that a distribution company required a sports watch that “had never been seen before.” Though it took some time for the public to come to terms with its price tag—it cost CHF 3,300 at launch—the Royal Oak has since become a bona fide icon, inspiring legions of copycats but few (if any) equals. Certainly, it speaks to the enduring quality of Genta’s original design that even when stuffed with rubies and equipped with a tourbillon, one glance at James’s watch will tell you, “Yup—that’s a Royal Oak. That’s one of the coolest watches in the world.”

Chris Hemsworth’s Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 Frozen

At a photocall for Furiosa: A Mad Max Saga , Chris Hemsworth donned a watch we’ve seen making the rounds recently: the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 in its ‘Frozen’ guise (meaning it’s positively dripping in diamonds). Unlike Usher’s version , this one features a bezel set with blue sapphires. It’s still, however, housed in white gold and powered by Chopard’s automatic, ultra-thin L.U.C 96.41-L movement with micro-rotor and a 65-hour power reserve. And it’s officially our new favorite watch to pair with a white dinner jacket.

James Marsden’s Santos de Cartier

Once a brand ambassador for IWC , for many years James Marsden was only spotted in Schaffhausen-approved designs. These days, however, the Jury Duty star has taken a liking to the solid-gold Santos de Cartier , a watch inspired by the Parisian maison’s partnership with Brazilian aviator Alberto-Santos Dumont at the turn of the 20th century. The watch, which Marsden wore to the Disney 2024 Upfront Presentation, is the brand’s medium-sized model, meaning it’s outfitted with the automatic-winding Caliber 1847 MC movement and comes paired to a matching 18K yellow gold bracelet with “SmartLink” adjustment system. Measuring 35mm, it’s even water resistant to 100—should you decide to take a dip in $32,200 worth of horology.

Michael Jordan’s Greubel Forsey GMT SPORT Tourbillon Titanium 45mm Limited Edition

Just a few weeks after stepping out in a $2 million stunner , Michael Jordan unveiled yet another grail-level timepiece in his collection. At an event for his Cincoro tequila label, MJ wore the Greubel Forsey GMT SPORT Tourbillon Titanium 45mm Limited Edition , a wildly complicated piece from two of the masters of haute horlogerie . Featuring an integrated bracelet like the Royal Oak or Nautilus , it boasts an inclined tourbillon; a GMT hand with day/night indicator and a resolving world timer glove; and a power reserve indicator. The price for such a contraption? A cool $600,000. The clout you’d gain by rocking one while sipping your very own tequila? Priceless .

Steve Carrell’s Omega Speedmaster ‘Snoopy’

Carrell is a noted collector with an affinity for tool watches like the Rolex Submariner, Rolex Daytona, and the Omega Speedmaster —stuff no self-respecting watch guy can argue with. But that doesn’t mean The Office star takes this whole tool watch thing too seriously: This week, he was spotted at the premiere of IF wearing the Speedmaster Moonwatch Anniversary Series Silver Snoopy Award , a piece with everyone’s favorite beagle in its running seconds counter. The Award, long given to NASA employees and contractors for special achievements in mission success or safety, has led to a growing collection of special watches .