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Stern Rail Seats

"The finest improvement to my boat, for the least amount of money. I recommend Stern Perch seats to everybody." - Judy Farrington, Newport, RI 1990 Hunter 30

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How to Make Your Own Stern Pulpit Rail Seat

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Build Your Own Stern Rail Seat From Starboard

Stern rail seats have become so popular over the last decade or so that most new sailboats large enough to support a stern pulpit now have them built in. Rail seats are perfect for a crew or guest who wants a clearer view ahead than you can get from the cockpit benches or for someone who simply wants to keep out of the way of winches, sheets and lines, and the crews' sailing or racing activities. Plus it's just plain fun to sit high up on the stern.

Several companies make stock or custom-sized rail seats that can be retrofitted to older boats. You can expect to pay $200 or more for a commercial seat, or you can build your own for a fraction of that. It's probably easier than you think.

Starboard is the best material for crafting your own seat. Starboard is a plastic with many marine uses, available in planks or sheets of different sizes and colors. The half-inch size, used in the seat shown here, is plenty strong for a rail seat. Starboard is strong and waterproof and will last practically forever. You can saw, drill, and sand it just like wood. The only disadvantage is that it cannot be glued, which doesn't matter for this project. Starboard can be ordered online and from the big marine chandleries.

The most important step in this project is the first: designing the size and shape of the seat itself to fit on your boat's railing. You could go with a straightforward boxy design that fits the space, or you can go for a more artistic or finished look that simulates the commercial seats. Be sure to consider where the sitting person's feet will go, and arrange the seat's position so that the sitter can lean against the upper rail. For the design of the seat shown in this photo, I simply walked around the docks looking at different seats until I found one I liked and that would fit my rail well. I asked the boat owner for permission to trace the seat, which he freely granted, admitting what he'd paid for the seat (about five times what the materials for my own cost). I liked the shape of this seat in part because of the space for the built-in cup holder, always a handy thing near the cockpit.

I then transferred the pattern to a sheet of starboard, cut out the shape with a jigsaw, and rounded and smoothed the edges with a belt sander. Then it was time to mount it.

Mounting the Stern Rail Seat

Typically a stern rail seat needs three points of attachment to be stable and feel solid. If the corner bend in the rail is close enough to 90 degrees, it may work to attach the seat on the rail only, but with a wider angle, as on the boat shown here, a leg is likely needed along with two or more rail mounts.

As you can see in this photo, the mounting hardware is very simple, and you can fashion your own design or use fittings like those shown here. For a little more money you can use stainless steel to match your rails, but these under-seat fixtures are seldom seen anyway, so there's nothing wrong with galvanized steel for the leg (hardware plumbing department) and nylon rail clamps. Cup holders are cheap; simply cut out the right size hole and fit it in, held in place with an epoxy intended for plastics.

The entire construction and installation process takes only about an hour, and your new stern seat will likely become one of the most often used parts of your boat.

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• Choosing a Centerboard or Fixed Keel Sailboat
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The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

Add More Cockpit Seating With DIY Stern Perch Seats

Small sailboats don’t offer a lot of seating options in the cockpit. Four adults are about the maximum that will leave room for the skipper to work the helm. For casual cruising, that means everyone is in the cockpit, not hiking out on the coamings or side decks. Most sailboats will accommodate six in the cockpit while moored with the tiller out of the way but that can be crowded. You can give your guests more room or yourself more seating options with seats mounted on the stern pushpit.

Before I continue, a bit of legal housekeeping. This post contains affiliate links. That means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase using those links. Those commissions help to pay the costs associated with running this site so that it stays free for everyone to enjoy. For a complete explanation of why I’m telling you this and how you can support this blog without paying more, please read my full disclosure .

Stern perch seats make sitting on the pushpit railing more comfortable. Back when I used to do all my docking maneuvers with the outboard tiller, I often sat on the railing for better forward visibility and for room to steer the outboard. Now I leave the outboard motor locked in the centered position and steer with the rudder exclusively. But I still like to sit on the pushpit occasionally for a change of view or to see over the bimini.

You can spend hundreds of dollars for factory-built seats like those from Zarcor shown below or you can make your own with simple tools and materials and a little imagination. You can make them out of any material that you want, for example, Starboard by King Plastics or teak plywood—in my case, recycled old crib boards.

Custom Stern Perch Seats Step-by-Step

To make your own custom stern perch seats:

• Use cardboard to make a template that fits the shape of the corners of your pushpit. Overlap the railing enough for three clamps underneath the seat. The shape and size of the seat should be comfortable but compact. Avoid shapes that get in the way of the main sheet when on a reach, bimini attachments, or the lazarette lids. Make the size easy to stow when you’re not using the seats.
• Transfer the shape to your seat material and cut out the seat with a jigsaw or bandsaw.
• Smooth the edges until the curves are fair.
• Round over the edges with a router and/or sandpaper.
• If you are using wood for the seat material, apply your favorite finish. Mine is teak oil and a clear varnish to let the beauty of the wood shine through.
• Temporarily attach three pole clips to your pushpit similar to the picture below. You want the clips to form a triangle to support the weight of a person sitting on the seat without the seat folding down.
• Position the seat board on the clips and mark the locations of the mounting holes on the bottom of the seat.
• Remove the seat and drill pilot holes for the mounting screws. Remember to not drill all the way through the seat!
• Remove the clips from the railing and screw them to the seat with stainless steel pan head sheet metal screws that are shorter than the seat board is thick.
• Snap the seat onto the pushpit whenever you want to sit high and dry. Unsnap it whenever you want to stow it or so that it doesn’t become a perch for messy birds.

Attachment and Other Options

I used three  1″ Sea-Dog Line Pole Storage Clips  for each seat to make them easy to remove.

If you would prefer a more permanent mounting, use something like these  Ancor Marine Grade Electrical Stainless Steel Cushion Clamps .

Most small sailboat pushpits are made with a single rail so a stern perch seat works more like a stool than a chair. Larger sailboats have taller pushpits with two rails, which makes a more comfortable seat. The seat attaches to the lower rail (possibly with a center support leg) and the upper rail serves as a backrest, especially if it’s cushioned.

Depending on how you attach your seats to the pushpit (permanent vs. removable), you might be able to make your seats more comfortable by shaping them more like an ellipse. I found that an elliptical shape didn’t work well with the rubber pole clips that I used. Weight on the front of the seat board unsnapped the middle clip at the rear of the seat. That’s why I made them shaped like a fat boomerang. They’re not as comfy as on a bigger boat but they’re not bad. Permanent clamps can hold more weight on the front edge of the seat.If you want to start with my design to make your own, there is

If you want to base your design off mine, there is a free, dimensioned drawing on the Downloads  page that’s available to subscribers.

Experiment with different shapes to find what works best for you. Make prototypes out of wood scraps. Also, consider making your seats multi-purpose with built-in cup holders, fishing rod holders, a flag staff, or as a grilling prep table.

Would you like to be notified when I publish more posts like this? Enter your email address below to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. You will also receive occasional newsletters with exclusive info and deals only for followers and the password to the Downloads page. It’s free and you can unsubscribe at any time but almost nobody does!

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5 thoughts on “ add more cockpit seating with diy stern perch seats ”.

Stingy Sailor:

At last…An article that addresses a topic that actually interests me!

Seriously, I was beginning to consider unsubscribing.

Jim Roberts

Whoa, we can’t have that! I’m always open to what folks are most interested in. Use the Contact page to send me your suggestions. You’re opinion counts!

I was having trouble finding the starboard or teak locally, and the quantities online were more than we needed (and expensive). Solution? I went to Walmart and bought a large cutting board! Cut it according to plan, and it worked perfectly. Additional advantage, it’s made to get wet. Total cost of stern perch seat: $35 🙂

Great article. Love your site. 2 Questions regarding a Catalina 22:

Have you ever seen a good design of a DIY Stern rail?

Have you ever seen a good design of a solar panel mounted on the stern rail?

I have not seen an entirely DIY stern rail before but I have seen a few modified ones. If you have something unique in mind and access to the right tools or a good stainless steel fabricator, it shouldn’t be too hard.

I’ve seen two basic designs for stern rail mounted solar panels. The first is simple clamps like shown in the pictures in Installing a Solar Panel by the Numbers . The other design is basically two triangular brackets that raise the panel a little and move it aft outside the stern rail, which is a little more convenient.

If I were going to add a solar panel, I wouldn’t put it on the stern rail, though, because it would be constantly in the way of operating the outboard, the rudder/tiller, the backstay adjuster, fishing poles, swim ladder, and so on. I would probably get a flexible, roll-up panel that I could keep below while under sail and unroll on the cabin roof or foredeck while at anchor or docked. But honestly, I truly prefer recharging with the outboard motor like I describe in Upgrade Your Outboard Motor to Charge Your Battery . I don’t even have to think about my battery, it’s just always fully charged and ready to go with no extra gear in the way.

Hope that helps, $tingy

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Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)

When you first get into sailing, there are a lot of sailboat parts to learn. Scouting for a good guide to all the parts, I couldn't find any, so I wrote one myself.

Below, I'll go over each different sailboat part. And I mean each and every one of them. I'll walk you through them one by one, and explain each part's function. I've also made sure to add good illustrations and clear diagrams.

This article is a great reference for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It's a great starting point, but also a great reference manual. Let's kick off with a quick general overview of the different sailboat parts.

General Overview

The different segments

You can divide up a sailboat in four general segments. These segments are arbitrary (I made them up) but it will help us to understand the parts more quickly. Some are super straightforward and some have a bit more ninja names.

Something like that. You can see the different segments highlighted in this diagram below:

The hull is what most people would consider 'the boat'. It's the part that provides buoyancy and carries everything else: sails, masts, rigging, and so on. Without the hull, there would be no boat. The hull can be divided into different parts: deck, keel, cabin, waterline, bilge, bow, stern, rudder, and many more.

I'll show you those specific parts later on. First, let's move on to the mast.

Sailboats Explained

The mast is the long, standing pole holding the sails. It is typically placed just off-center of a sailboat (a little bit to the front) and gives the sailboat its characteristic shape. The mast is crucial for any sailboat: without a mast, any sailboat would become just a regular boat.

I think this segment speaks mostly for itself. Most modern sailboats you see will have two sails up, but they can carry a variety of other specialty sails. And there are all kinds of sail plans out there, which determine the amount and shape of sails that are used.

The Rigging

This is probably the most complex category of all of them.

Rigging is the means with which the sails are attached to the mast. The rigging consists of all kinds of lines, cables, spars, and hardware. It's the segment with the most different parts.

The most important parts

If you learn anything from this article, here are the most important parts of any sailboat. You will find all of these parts in some shape or form on almost any sailboat.

Okay, we now have a good starting point and a good basic understanding of the different sailboat parts. It's time for the good stuff. We're going to dive into each segment in detail.

Below, I'll go over them one by one, pointing out its different parts on a diagram, listing them with a brief explanation, and showing you examples as well.

After reading this article, you'll recognize every single sailboat part and know them by name. And if you forget one, you're free to look it up in this guide.

On this page:

The hull is the heart of the boat. It's what carries everything: the mast, the sails, the rigging, the passengers. The hull is what provides the sailboat with its buoyancy, allowing it to stay afloat.

Sailboats mostly use displacement hulls, which is a shape that displaces water when moving through it. They are generally very round and use buoyancy to support its own weight. These two characteristics make sure it is a smooth ride.

There are different hull shapes that work and handle differently. If you want to learn more about them, here's the Illustrated Guide to Boat Hull Types (with 11 Examples ). But for now, all we need to know is that the hull is the rounded, floating part of any sailboat.

Instead of simply calling the different sides of a hull front, back, left and right , we use different names in sailing. Let's take a look at them.

The bow is the front part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'front'. It's the pointy bit that cuts through the water. The shape of the bow determines partially how the boat handles.

The stern is the back part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'back'. The shape of the stern partially determines the stability and speed of the boat. With motorboats, the stern lies deep inside the water, and the hull is flatter aft. Aft also means back. This allows it to plane, increasing the hull speed. For sailboats, stability is much more important, so the hull is rounded throughout, increasing its buoyancy and hydrodynamic properties.

The transom is the backplate of the boat's hull. It's the most aft (rear) part of the boat.

Port is the left side of a sailboat.

Starboard is the right side of a sailboat

The bilges are the part where the bottom and the sides of the hull meet. On sailboats, these are typically very round, which helps with hydrodynamics. On powerboats, they tend to have an angle.

The waterline is the point where the boat's hull meets the water. Generally, boat owners paint the waterline and use antifouling paint below it, to protect it from marine growth.

The deck is the top part of the boat's hull. In a way, it's the cap of the boat, and it holds the deck hardware and rigging.

Displacement hulls are very round and smooth, which makes them very efficient and comfortable. But it also makes them very easy to capsize: think of a canoe, for example.

The keel is a large fin that offsets the tendency to capsize by providing counterbalance. Typically, the keel carries ballast in the tip, creating a counterweight to the wind's force on the sails.

The rudder is the horizontal plate at the back of the boat that is used to steer by setting a course and maintaining it. It is connected to the helm or tiller.

Tiller or Helm

• The helm is simply the nautical term for the wheel.
• The tiller is simply the nautical term for the steering stick.

The tiller or helm is attached to the rudder and is used to steer the boat. Most smaller sailboats (below 30') have a tiller, most larger sailboats use a helm. Large ocean-going vessels tend to have two helms.

The cockpit is the recessed part in the deck where the helmsman sits or stands. It tends to have some benches. It houses the outside navigation and systems interfaces, like the compass, chartplotter, and so on. It also houses the mainsheet traveler and winches for the jib. Most boats are set up so that the entire vessel can be operated from the cockpit (hence the name). More on those different parts later.

Most larger boats have some sort of roofed part, which is called the cabin. The cabin is used as a shelter, and on cruising sailboats you'll find the galley for cooking, a bed, bath room, and so on.

The mast is the pole on a sailboat that holds the sails. Sailboats can have one or multiple masts, depending on the mast configuration. Most sailboats have only one or two masts. Three masts or more is less common.

The boom is the horizontal pole on the mast, that holds the mainsail in place.

The sails seem simple, but actually consist of many moving parts. The parts I list below work for most modern sailboats - I mean 90% of them. However, there are all sorts of specialty sails that are not included here, to keep things concise.

The mainsail is the largest sail on the largest mast. Most sailboats use a sloop rigging (just one mast with one bermuda mainsail). In that case, the main is easy to recognize. With other rig types, it gets more difficult, since there can be multiple tall masts and large sails.

If you want to take a look at the different sail plans and rig types that are out there, I suggest reading my previous guide on how to recognize any sailboat here (opens in new tab).

Sail sides:

• Leech - Leech is the name for the back side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Luff - Luff is the name for the front side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Foot - Foot is the name for the lower side of the sail, where it meets the boom.

Sail corners:

• Clew - The clew is the lower aft (back) corner of the mainsail, where the leech is connected to the foot. The clew is attached to the boom.
• Tack - The tack is the lower front corner of the mainsail
• Head - The head is the top corner of the mainsail

Battens are horizontal sail reinforcers that flatten and stiffen the sail.

Telltales are small strings that show you whether your sail trim is correct. You'll find telltales on both your jib and mainsail.

The jib is the standard sized headsail on a Bermuda Sloop rig (which is the sail plan most modern sailboats use).

As I mentioned: there are all kinds, types, and shapes of sails. For an overview of the most common sail types, check out my Guide on Sail Types here (with photos).

The rigging is what is used to attach your sails and mast to your boat. Rigging, in other words, mostly consists of all kinds of lines. Lines are just another word for ropes. Come to think of it, sailors really find all kinds of ways to complicate the word rope ...

Two types of rigging

There are two types of rigging: running and standing rigging. The difference between the two is very simple.

• The running rigging is the rigging on a sailboat that's used to operate the sails. For example, the halyard, which is used to lower and heave the mainsail.
• The standing rigging is the rigging that is used to support the mast and sail plan.

Standing Rigging

Here are the different parts that belong to the standing rigging:

• Forestay or Headstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the bow of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Backstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the stern of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Sidestay or Shroud - Line or cable that supports the mast from the sides of the boat. Most sailboats use at least two sidestays (one on each side).
• Spreader - The sidestays are spaced to steer clear from the mast using spreaders.

Running Rigging: different words for rope

Ropes play a big part in sailing, and especially in control over the sails. In sailboat jargon, we call ropes 'lines'. But there are some lines with a specific function that have a different name. I think this makes it easier to communicate with your crew: you don't have to define which line you mean. Instead, you simply shout 'mainsheet!'. Yeah, that works.

Running rigging consists of the lines, sheets, and hardware that are used to control, raise, lower, shape and manipulate the sails on a sailboat. Rigging varies for different rig types, but since most sailboats are use a sloop rig, nearly all sailboats use the following running rigging:

• Halyards -'Halyard' is simply the nautical name for lines or ropes that are used to raise and lower the mainsail. The halyard is attached to the top of the mainsail sheet, or the gaffer, which is a top spar that attaches to the mainsail. You'll find halyards on both the mainsail and jib.
• Sheets - 'Sheet' is simply the nautical term for lines or ropes that are used to set the angle of the sail.
• Mainsheet - The line, or sheet, that is used to set the angle of the mainsail. The mainsheet is attached to the Mainsheet traveler. More on that under hardware.
• Jib Sheet - The jib mostly comes with two sheets: one on each side of the mast. This prevents you from having to loosen your sheet, throwing it around the other side of the mast, and tightening it. The jib sheets are often controlled using winches (more on that under hardware).
• Cleats are small on-deck hooks that can be used to tie down sheets and lines after trimming them.
• Reefing lines - Lines that run through the mainsail, used to put a reef in the main.
• The Boom Topping Lift is a line that is attached to the aft (back) end of the boom and runs to the top of the mast. It supports the boom whenever you take down the mainsail.
• The Boom Vang is a line that places downward tension on the boom.

There are some more tensioning lines, but I'll leave them for now. I could probably do an entire guide on the different sheets on a sailboat. Who knows, perhaps I'll write it.

This is a new segment, that I didn't mention before. It's a bit of an odd duck, so I threw all sorts of stuff into this category. But they are just as important as all the other parts. Your hardware consists of cleats, winches, traveler and so on. If you don't know what all of this means, no worries: neither did I. Below, you'll find a complete overview of the different parts.

Deck Hardware

Just a brief mention of the different deck hardware parts:

• Pulpits are fenced platforms on the sailboat's stern and bow, which is why they are called the bow pulpit and stern pulpit here. They typically have a solid steel framing for safety.
• Stanchons are the standing poles supporting the lifeline , which combined for a sort of fencing around the sailboat's deck. On most sailboats, steel and steel cables are used for the stanchons and lifelines.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a rail in the cockpit that is used to control the mainsheet. It helps to lock the mainsheet in place, fixing the mainsails angle to the wind.

If you're interested in learning more about how to use the mainsheet traveler, Matej has written a great list of tips for using your mainsheet traveler the right way . It's a good starting point for beginners.

Winches are mechanical or electronic spools that are used to easily trim lines and sheets. Most sailboats use winches to control the jib sheets. Modern large sailing yachts use electronic winches for nearly all lines. This makes it incredibly easy to trim your lines.

You'll find the compass typically in the cockpit. It's the most old-skool navigation tool out there, but I'm convinced it's also one of the most reliable. In any way, it definitely is the most solid backup navigator you can get for the money.

Want to learn how to use a compass quickly and reliably? It's easy. Just read my step-by-step beginner guide on How To Use a Compass (opens in new tab .

Chartplotter

Most sailboats nowadays use, besides a compass and a map, a chartplotter. Chartplotters are GPS devices that show a map and a course. It's very similar to your normal car navigation.

Outboard motor

Most sailboats have some sort of motor to help out when there's just the slightest breeze. These engines aren't very big or powerful, and most sailboats up to 32' use an outboard motor. You'll find these at the back of the boat.

Most sailboats carry 1 - 3 anchors: one bow anchor (the main one) and two stern anchors. The last two are optional and are mostly used by bluewater cruisers.

I hope this was helpful, and that you've gained a good understanding of the different parts involved in sailing. I wanted to write a good walk-through instead of overwhelming you with lists and lists of nautical terms. I hope I've succeeded. If so, I appreciate any comments and tips below.

I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, without getting into the real nitty gritty. That would make for a gigantic article. However, if you feel I've left something out that really should be in here, please let me know in the comments below, so I can update the article.

I own a small 20 foot yacht called a Red witch made locally back in the 70s here in Western Australia i found your article great and enjoyed reading it i know it will be a great help for me in my future leaning to sail regards John.

David Gardner

İ think this is a good explanation of the difference between a ”rope” and a ”line”:

Rope is unemployed cordage. In other words, when it is in a coil and has not been assigned a job, it is just a rope.

On the other hand, when you prepare a rope for a specific task, it becomes employed and is a line. The line is labeled by the job it performs; for example, anchor line, dock line, fender line, etc.

Hey Mr. Buckles

I am taking on new crew to race with me on my Flying Scot (19ft dingy). I find your Sailboat Parts Explained to be clear and concise. I believe it will help my new crew learn the language that we use on the boat quickly without being overwhelmed.

PS: my grandparents were from Friesland and emigrated to America.

Thank you Shawn for the well written, clear and easy to digest introductory article. Just after reading this first article I feel excited and ready to set sails and go!! LOL!! Cheers! Daniel.

steve Balog

well done, chap

Great intro. However, the overview diagram misidentifies the cockpit location. The cockpit is located aft of the helm. Your diagram points to a location to the fore of the helm.

William Thompson-Ambrose

An excellent introduction to the basic anatomy and function of the sailboat. Anyone who wants to start sailing should consider the above article before stepping aboard! Thank-you

James Huskisson

Thanks for you efforts mate. We’ve all got to start somewhere. Thanks for sharing. Hoping to my first yacht. 25ft Holland. Would love to cross the Bass Strait one day to Tasmania. 👌 Cheers mate

Alan Alexander Percy

thankyou ijust aquired my first sailboat at 66yrs of age its down at pelican point a beautifull place in virginia usa my sailboat is a redwing 30 if you are ever in the area i wouldnt mind your guidance and superior knowledge of how to sail but iam sure your fantastic article will help my sailboat is wings 30 ft

Thanks for quick refresher course. Having sailed in California for 20+ years I now live in Spain where I have to take a spanish exam for a sailboat license. Problem is, it’s only in spanish. So a lot to learn for an old guy like me.

Very comprehensive, thank you

Your article really brought all the pieces together for me today. I have been adventuring my first sailing voyage for 2 months from the Carolinas and am now in Eleuthera waiting on weather to make the Exumas!!! Great job and thanks

Helen Ballard

I’ve at last found something of an adventure to have in sailing, so I’m starting at the basics, I have done a little sailing but need more despite being over 60 life in the old dog etc, thanks for your information 😊

Barbara Scott

I don’t have a sailboat, neither do l plan to literally take to the waters. But for mental exercise, l have decided to take to sailing in my Bermuda sloop, learning what it takes to become a good sailor and run a tight ship, even if it’s just imaginary. Thank you for helping me on my journey to countless adventures and misadventures, just to keep it out of the doldrums! (I’m a 69 year old African American female who have rediscovered why l enjoyed reading The Adventures of Robert Louis Stevenson as well as his captivating description of sea, wind, sailboat,and sailor).

Great article and very good information source for a beginner like me. But I didn’t find out what I had hoped to, which is, what are all those noisy bits of kit on top of the mast? I know the one with the arrow is a weather vane, but the rest? Many thanks, Jay.

Louis Cohen

The main halyard is attached to the head of the mainsail, not the to the mainsheet. In the USA, we say gaff, not gaffer. The gaff often has its own halyard separate from the main halyard.

Other than that it’s a nice article with good diagrams.

A Girl Who Has an Open Sail Dream

Wow! That was a lot of great detail! Thank you, this is going to help me a lot on my project!

Hi, good info, do u know a book that explains all the systems on a candc 27,

Emma Delaney

As a hobbyist, I was hesitant to invest in expensive CAD software, but CADHOBBY IntelliCAD has proven to be a cost-effective alternative that delivers the same quality and performance.

https://www.cadhobby.com/

Leave a comment

You may also like, guide to understanding sail rig types (with pictures).

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

The Illustrated Guide To Boat Hull Types (11 Examples)

How To Live On a Boat For Free: How I'd Do It

How To Live on a Sailboat: Consider These 5 Things

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Pushpit Seats: Comfort in the Cockpit

Posted by Bill Dimmit | Projects

Common on many newer stock boats, pushpit or stern pulpit seating is a great addition to any good old boat as well. The pushpit is the stainless steel framework aft of the cockpit. It’s an important safety feature on any cruiser and, therefore, generally well constructed. This makes it a perfect location for the addition of seating areas that are not only great sailing thrones, but also provide out-of-the-action perches for non-sailors as well.

This is a reasonably simple project. Materials are readily available and fabrication is easily accomplished using tools found in most household workshops. These instructions will loosely guide you toward results similar to what you see in the photos, but every boat is as different as its owners’ personal tastes.

It is essential that your pushpit frame have a center horizontal rail. You really can’t consider the project without it. It supports the seats and gives you something to fasten them to. You’ll need some stiff corrugated cardboard for patterns. The sides of a cereal or tissue carton will do. Most frames will have one or two vertical supports near the bends in the corners. In our situation, these supports neatly defined the location of the seats. Your frame may be different. Lay the cardboard on the corner of the center rail. Doing so may require you to notch around a support or two. This is a trial-and-error challenge and may take a bit of time. Also make sure the pattern covers the entire area being considered for the seat. Then simply trace the outside contour of the rail onto the pattern. Also mark where you want the seats to end up on the frame. Don’t make the mistake of assuming that both sides of the frame are the same. Port and starboard seldom mirror each other, and you will need to make a pattern for each.

With the outline of your frame in hand, lay out the seats. Keep in mind that what you are doing will have some impact on the appearance of your boat. Your seats should be well proportioned in respect to the rest of the cockpit. Older cruiser/racers often have narrow transoms, so keep the seats fairly small – just enough to give support, with enough room left over for a beverage holder, if you want one. Another tip: there are very few truly straight lines on a boat. Use smooth flowing curves when laying out the inboard edge. Your final design should be pleasing to the eye and look like it belongs on the boat. Set both patterns on the frame to satisfy your eye before plugging in the saw. Then label them port/top and starboard/top.

We used 3/4 inch polyethylene stock for our seats because it was readily available. This may not be the case in your area. A better choice would be Starboard, a material made specifically for marine environments. Starboard comes in several sizes and colors. It can be ordered from most mail-order distributors. (I got mine from Elastomer Engineering Inc., 801 Steuben St., Sioux City, IA 51102. Phone: 712-252-1067.) Be sure to use material thick enough to give good support. I recommend 3/4 inch.

Transfer the patterns onto the material and simply cut them out with whatever you have on hand. A band saw is best, but a handheld sabre saw will do nearly as well. Take your time and try to cut right to the outside edge of the line. The holes for the beverage holders are best made with an adjustable circle-cutting bit mounted in a drill press, but the sabre saw will work here as well. Whatever tools you use, you are going to end up with edges that need some additional work.

Sand or file them smooth and fair. After they match the pattern and look good to the eye, you can contour them for comfort. This is easily done with a router, and if you don’t have one, a friend probably will. All that is necessary is to round over the top. But we chose to bullnose ours. The router should leave you with a nearly finished edge. Use a Scotch-brite pad to do any final smoothing.

With the seats shaped and edges smoothed, it’s time to mount them on the frame. Ours are held in place with custom clamps made from the same material as the seats. But making similar clamps would be difficult without a drill press. Stainless steel straps are an easier and better choice. Whatever you use, they should be through-bolted like hardware subject to stress. Countersink the heads and plug the holes just as you would if doing traditional woodwork. The beverage holders are held in place with marine-grade silicone.

Unless your seats are very small, they will probably require additional support. Our Ericson 32 has a split cockpit with an athwartships bench behind the helm. This made it easy to extend struts down to the original seat level. Most conventional cockpit arrangements should work. The struts are short sections of stainless or aluminum tubing with the same kinds of ends and mounting brackets used in Bimini frames. These items can be found in any boating area and also ordered from marine catalogs. Position the struts for good support. Ours run from near the center of the inboard edge, down to the back of the original cockpit seat. This retains some useful space on the bench below.

Our seats have endured two Midwest sailing seasons and we immediately found them to be one of the best improvements we’ve made on our good old boat.

Article from Good Old Boat magazine, November/December 1999.

About The Author

Bill Dimmit

Bill Dimmit, shown with grandson, Isaiah, and the new pushpit seats, has had a lifetime fascination with sailing, primarily sailing dinghies until a charter in the Virgin Islands convinced him and wife, Laurie, of the pleasures of the cruising life. They now sail a 1974 Ericson on Lewis and Clark Lake near Yankton, S.D.

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Bow Pulpit: The Essential Guide

Welcome to our guide on bow pulpits! A bow pulpit is a platform at the front of a boat that provides a safe spot for crew members to stand while underway. It’s an essential piece of equipment for any craft and can be customized to meet your needs.

We’ll talk about the differences between bow pulpits and bowsprits, the advanced features you may want to include, and how best to maintain them. So let’s dive in!

What is a Bow Pulpit?

A bow pulpit serves several vital functions on a boat or ship. Made from stainless steel, aluminum, or wood, it protects the crew from falling overboard and is a secure place to handle lines and anchor gear.

It can also mount navigation lights and other accessories on the vessel. Bow pulpits come in different designs, such as open, closed, raised, or low, which are tailored to fit the specific shape and style of the vessel, with options for custom finishes or paint colors.

Stainless steel is robust, durable, and corrosion-resistant, making it a popular choice for bow pulpits. Aluminum is lightweight, corrosion-resistant, and relatively easy to work with; it can also be painted or coated in various colors. Wood provides a classic and elegant look but requires regular maintenance to prevent rot and decay.

Open bow pulpits have a recessed front that allows for better access and visibility, while closed bow pulpits provide additional protection from the elements. Raised bow pulpits elevate the anchor roller and bow rail above deck level, providing increased visibility. In contrast, low bow pulpits are designed to be sleek and minimalistic without compromising safety features.

Features and Components

Some standard features and components of bow pulpits include rails and stanchions to prevent people from falling overboard, toe rail and anchor rollers for secure handling of lines and anchors, navigation lights required by law, additional accessories such as flag poles or horns, bow seats for comfort while manning the bow. A windlass mount to make anchoring more efficient.

Difference Between Bow Pulpit and Bowsprit

There is a difference between a bow pulpit and a bowsprit. A bowsprit is a long pole or spar that extends forward from the bow and serves as the point of attachment for the forestay.

Meanwhile, a bow pulpit is a railing or structure installed at the front of the boat to protect crew members and equipment. To determine which resides on the vessel, look for a long pole extending from the bow!

Maintenance

It is essential to keep bow pulpits in good condition for long-term use. Typical maintenance tasks such as cleaning, polishing, and inspection should be regularly carried out.

To further ensure the longevity of bow pulpits, corrosion prevention methods should also be employed due to their exposure to saltwater and harsh weather conditions.

In conclusion, bow pulpits are essential safety and comfort equipment for any boat or ship. They come in various designs, such as open, closed, raised, or low.

Bow pulpits typically include features such as rails and stanchions, anchor rollers, navigation lights, and more accessories depending on the vessel’s needs.

Maintaining bow pulpits through regular cleaning and inspection and employing corrosion prevention methods to ensure their longevity is essential.

Ultimately, understanding the basics of a bow pulpit and how to use it properly can go a long way in increasing safety and comfort on board.

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Made my own Stern Rail Seats

• Thread starter McIntoshUSA
• Start date Dec 19, 2014
• Forums for All Owners
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McIntoshUSA

Our boat did not have stern rail seats so I decided to make my own. The actual seat is small, for only 1 person. I also added 2 cup holders. One for large drink and one with a plastic can holder. I used a piece of cardboard to make a pattern that fit in the section. (You can see the cardboard in one of the photos). I also picked up a piece of stainless steel 1" tubing at a Mariners trading post and deck mount cheap. I used the tubing for support. I used pine, stained it and applied 7 coats of marine spar varnish. I had debated if I should use the star board (like fiberglass board) or pine. I decided with pine since the only wood our boat has in the cockpit is the folding table. I guess only time will tell if I made the correct choice.  

Attachments

Well done! Thanks for sharing. Ken  

nice job.  

Very nice job indeed. My H28.5 has a similar transom with the split backstays also. I was curious how the stern seats would work so post back and let us know how you like them.  

Nice McIntosh. Do you leave them out when not sailing? I so I would make covers for them or throw a towel over them to protect them from the weather. One of the nice things about using wood is that it floats and they are much lighter than starboard. I notice that you have the split backstays. I took mine out to make room for the seats. I like to use mine when I solo sail. I have a remote control to the autopilot so I can just kick back and enjoy the view.  

Very nice seats. They appear to slant outward a bit.....that should be comfortable while motoring and will keep your butt in the seat when you are sitting on the high side when the boat heels. Charlotte Harbor was very calm most of yesterday, but we had a nice sail near Bokeelia from 3:30 to 4:45.  

31seahorse said: Very nice seats. They appear to slant outward a bit.....that should be comfortable while motoring and will keep your butt in the seat when you are sitting on the high side when the boat heels. Charlotte Harbor was very calm most of yesterday, but we had a nice sail near Bokeelia from 3:30 to 4:45. Click to expand

caguy said: Nice McIntosh. Do you leave them out when not sailing? I so I would make covers for them or throw a towel over them to protect them from the weather. One of the nice things about using wood is that it floats and they are much lighter than starboard. I notice that you have the split backstays. I took mine out to make room for the seats. I like to use mine when I solo sail. I have a remote control to the autopilot so I can just kick back and enjoy the view. Click to expand

Bad Obsession

I would agree with covering it. On my last boat I fabricated a cover for every ounce of wood, except for the eyebrow strips. I hate doing wood so I cover it and only let it out when I want it to look nice!  

well done. How did you clamp them to the stern rails?  

njlarry said: well done. How did you clamp them to the stern rails? Click to expand

I really like your seats, but I am a little confused as to the brackets at the ends of the seat. PS I also sail in Charlotte Harbor.  

algee said: I really like your seats, but I am a little confused as to the brackets at the ends of the seat. PS I also sail in Charlotte Harbor. Click to expand

I like that a lot! I was contemplating how I would go about doing this after seeing a pair of factory seats on a friend's Precision. Well done!  

McIntoshUSA said: Here are some pictures of the brackets underneath the seats. Hopefully this helps. Click to expand

Does anyone know where I can get a hinged bracket that the support pole would fit into that would attach to the bottom of a stern rail seat so that when the seat is raised vertical I can fold the support pole down parallel to the vertical seat.  

It might be cheaper and easier to simply get a hinge and screw a wooden support to it instead of using metal tubing for support in this instance. Teak would not need maintenance.  

i FOUND IT AS EASY TO GET A 90 degree socket for a SS tube. Bolt it to the bottom of the seat, install or remove the tube support as needed. Maybe even put a clevis pin through it to hold the leg. Put a rubber cap on the bottom of the leg to protect the deck.  

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