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Determining Air Draft (Boat height above water level)

Discussion in ' General Yachting Discussion ' started by Zud , Oct 2, 2016 .

Zud Senior Member

Okay you gurus of Yachting, Easiest/accurate method of determining required air draft short of driving under the bridge and measuring the amount torn off of the mast/radar arch. Boat literature makes no sense...20'8" with TV dish removed but the light mast with radar is considerably higher on the boat and would be required/original equipment. How do I get a good measurement from top of radar arch to water level with all electronics removed?? Thanks Zud

olderboater Senior Member

Yes, the literature is useless. Others will have other ideas I'm sure, but here's how we did it. We measured a boathouse height from the water. Pulled the boat in, measured clearance. So our air draft was the height of the boathours opening less the amount we cleared it by. You can do the same under bridges that have accurate markings, note the word "accurate" as some don't, so I'd select more than one to check. We've double checked our boathouse numbers with bridges. Just as you need to know draft at different loads, make sure you take loads into account on air draft. This in addition to knowing it with all different equipment and height permutations.

Capt J Senior Member

Just lay a fishing rod across the hardtop where you can lay the rod verticle with a bobber on it and drop it down till it hits the water, then take it on land and measure it......if something sticks up above the hardtop measure that from the hardtop to the highest point and add to your measurement.

I knew I could count on you guys !!! easiest and as accurate as need be. Will do ASAP

Oscarvan Senior Member

For RV's I use a laser level and large telescoping height pole. (Home Depot or Lowes)

C4ENG Senior Member

Could you use your docking plan or general arrangement drawings to calculate the air draft while using a pair of dividers and the measuring scale on the drawing for the vessel and then add it all up?

Pascal Senior Member

Home Depot sells measuring tapes.... J, Some of us don't fish and may not have fishing gear... You can still measure the boat, first from WL to deck, then the house, then the hard top or whatever. I thin measuring tapes are cheaper than a fishing rod and line, and lead most smart phones come with free calculator app so you can add up the various measurements

Pascal said: ↑ Home Depot sells measuring tapes.... J, Some of us don't fish and may not have fishing gear... You can still measure the boat, first from WL to deck, then the house, then the hard top or whatever. I thin measuring tapes are cheaper than a fishing rod and line, and lead most smart phones come with free calculator app so you can add up the various measurements Click to expand...

not a single fishing rod on this boat ... Hoping to keep it this way

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Calculate Clearance Under Bridges & Cables

• Post author: Noel Hutchinson
• Post published: October 25, 2019
• Post category: Uncategorized
• Post comments: 0 Comments

This article will show you how to calculate clearance under bridges & cables. We often need to do this in order to see if our vessel can fit underneath. Or we may have to work our when our vessel can fit underneath as it may need the tide to fall to a certain level.

When working out this puzzle, the first thing we need to do is find the charted height of the bridge or overhead obstruction. We can either find this on the chart itself or by looking up the information in an almanac or pilot book.

Overhead clearances under bridges & cables are measured above something called HAT or Highest Astronomical Tide. This is the highest a tide can rise due to influence of celestial bodies and weather. For a reminder of the different tide levels take a look at the image below or click through to the video.

So the next step is to find the height of HAT from the tide tables. Once we have done this we know the height of the bridge and the level above which it is measured.

The thing with HAT though is that it’s not that common. HAT is the highest a tide can be expected to rise. However, the tide often falls short of that level. This means that we often have some extra space. This space comes from the difference between the height of tide (HoT) on the day and HAT.

In order to find this extra bit of space we need to use a tidal curve or an App to get the height of tide. We can then take the height of tide off of HAT. This is our extra bit of space.

HAT – HoT = extra space

You can refresh yourself on tidal curves here if you need to:

How To Use Tidal Curves – watch the video

The Final Calculation

To calculate clearance under bridges & cables then, all you need to do is add the charted height and the extra bit of space together. This will then give you the total space available for a given time on a given day.

In order to see if you will fit under the bridge take the air draft of your vessel from the total space available. If the answer is positive then you can make your way underneath safely. The air draft is the height of the vessel from the waterline to the very top.

Here’s a summary of the steps to take:

• Get the charted height from the chart or almanac
• Get the level of HAT from the tide tables
• Calculate the height of tide (HoT) using the tidal curve (or use an App)
• Take the HoT from HAT to work out the extra space
• Add the extra space to the charted height for total clearance
• Take the air draft of the vessel from the total clearance to see if the vessel can fit

Calculate Clearance Under Bridges & Cables Cheat Sheet

As always, we have produced a free cheat sheet for you to use. It will make the steps super simple and help to keep you organised as well. We find the best thing to do is laminate it. Then you can use it again and again with a dry wipe marker pen or china-graph pencil ?

Please don’t forget to like, comment and share.

Our complete set of Knowledge Cards are available from our shop

Noel Hutchinson

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Great Loop FAQs

The majority of the questions we receive are answered here. There are FAQs about the Great Loop route and about what the requirements are for a Great Loop-capable boat.

Questions about the Great Loop Route

What exactly is the great loop, what waterways comprise the great loop route.

Because there are several points on the route where there are choices that may send you to different waterways, we recommend you examine our Public Interactive Map.  However, the primary waterways on the basic route include:  

• The Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway
• The Chesapeake Bay
• The C&D Canal
• The Atlantic Ocean from Cape May to New York Harbor (or sometimes inland waterways through part of New Jersey)
• The Hudson River
• The Erie Canal (or a popular route option on the "Triangle Loop")
• The Oswego Canal (or continue on the Erie Canal to Lake Erie)
• Lake Ontario
• The Trent-Severn Canal
• Georgian Bay
• Lake Michigan
• The Illinois River
• The Mississippi River
• The Ohio River
• The Tennessee River
• The Tenn-Tom Waterway
• The Gulf Intracoastal Waterway
• The Okeechobee Waterway (or continue on the Gulf Intracoastal to the Keys)

How Many Miles Is the Great Loop?

How long does it take to do the great loop, how many states/provinces/countries are along the great loop.

The US. and Canada are usually part of the Great Loop, although one route option keeps you within the U.S. borders.  Some Loopers do a side trip to the Bahamas as well. Depending on route choices, you will go through at least 15 U.S. states and Canadian provinces, which may include:  

•     Florida
•     Georgia
•     South Carolina
•     North Carolina
•     Virginia
•     Maryland
•     Delaware
•     New Jersey
•     New York
•     Vermont
•     Quebec
•     Ontario
•     Michigan
•     Wisconsin
•     Illinois
•     Missouri
•     Kentucky
•     Tennessee
•     Mississippi
•     Alabama

Where on the Loop Is the Starting Point?

Why is the loop usually done counter-clockwise, why do aglca members fly burgees and what do the various colors mean.

The double swallow tail AGLCA burgee is the flag that binds America's Great Loop Cruisers' Association™ members. It's been called the welcome mat for Loopers and is proudly flown by our members whenever they are cruising. Members who fly an AGLCA Burgee receive instant recognition from the boating community and their fellow members.

The White Burgee is an indicator of AGLCA membership and can be flown by any of our members on any type of boat, even if it’s not your Loop boat. 

The Gold Burgee is the "Gold Standard" and is reserved for members who have completed the Great Loop Cruise.

The Platinum Burgee has been specially designed to identify our most experienced Loopers, those who have accomplished multiple Loop completions!

And, our veteran Loopers who display the Gold and Platinum Burgees as their credential of completion(s) are accorded the respect that goes with being someone who has done extensive cruising on America's Waterways.

In addition to members, AGLCA sponsors can also be seen flying burgees.

The Red Burgee represents the highest level of AGLCA sponsorship and is flown by our Admiral sponsors.

The Green Burgee represents the second highest level of AGLCA sponsorship and those sponsors are known as Commanders.

The Blue Burgee represents sponsors at the Lieutenant and Lieutenant Plus sponsorship levels.

Wherever you see one of these colors flying you can be assured that these sponsors will do whatever they can to assist you with your Great Loop journey.

Questions about Great Loop-Capable Boats

What's the best boat for the great loop, what air draft (height) restrictions are there on the great loop route.

The lowest unavoidable fixed bridge on the Great Loop is currently charted at 19.6’ and is located at mile 300.6 on the Illinois River.  The boat you intend to use for the Loop must be able to clear that bridge.  Some members with taller boats are able to get under 19.6’ by lowering antenna, radar arches, etc.  About 8% of our members have sailboats.  Most sailboats will need to unstep the mast to clear the bridges outside of Chicago and upstate New York.   Your choice of waterways through New York State and into Canada will also be dependent on your air draft.  If you can clear a 15' bridge, you have the option to take the Erie Canal to its western terminus into Lake Erie.  If you can clear a 17' bridge, you can do the "triangle loop" that takes you into Lake Champlain and through the St. Lawrence Seaway into Lake Ontario. (As an additional option on the triangle loop, if you can clear many eight foot bridges, you can take the historic, charming and free Lachine Canal through Montreal rather than the Seaway locks.) The final option is to take the Erie Canal to the Oswego canal to Lake Ontario. That route requires you to clear 21' bridges. Your air draft will also dictate which route you take off Lake Michigan.  To cruise the Chicago River through downtown, you must be able to clear 17' bridges.  If you can't clear that, you will take the Cal-Sag Canal which is south of Chicago to the Illinois River.

What Is the Maximum Water Draft (Depth) for a Boat Doing the Great Loop?

What is the maximum length for a boat to do the great loop, what is the maximum beam (width) for a great loop boat, what fuel range does my boat need to have, sign up for our free great loop planning guide.

Sign up for AGLCA’s “Great Loop Planning Guide” email series with tips, suggestions, and a timeline for planning your own Great Loop adventure.

What Do Boat Measurements Mean? 11 Terms Explained!

Boat measurements are more than just numbers; they are the essence of maritime safety, efficiency, and compatibility.

Navigating the intricate world of boat measurements is crucial for anyone in the boating industry, from manufacturers to enthusiasts.

Understanding these measurements ensures proper vessel selection, compliance with marina requirements, and safe navigation in various water conditions.

Below we delve into the key aspects of how boats are measured and the main terms used, providing you with the essential knowledge to engage with the maritime world confidently.

11 Main Boat Measurement Terms

These are 11 main boat measurement terms with expanded descriptions and examples for better understanding:

• Length Overall (LOA) : This is the total length of the boat from the tip of the bow to the end of the stern. It’s the most common way to describe the size of a boat. LOA is important for determining mooring space, marina fees, and navigating in confined waters. For example, a boat with an LOA of 30 feet will need a berth slightly longer than 30 feet. For stability calculations, you should refer to LBP or length between perpendiculars .
• Length on Deck (LOD) : This measures the horizontal length of the boat’s hull excluding any extensions like bow sprits or swim platforms. LOD is used to provide a more accurate measurement of the usable space on the boat. A boat might have an LOA of 35 feet but an LOD of 30 feet if there’s a 5-foot bow sprit.
• Beam : The beam is the width of the boat at its widest point. It’s crucial for stability; wider beams generally provide greater stability. The beam also affects a boat’s capacity and maneuverability. For instance, a boat with a beam of 10 feet might be more stable but less maneuverable than a boat with an 8-foot beam. More about boat beam read here .
• Draft : Draft measures the minimum depth of water a boat requires to float. It’s key for determining where a boat can safely navigate. A sailboat with a draft of 6 feet can’t enter waters less than one fathom or 6 feet deep without risking running aground.
• Displacement : This is the weight of the water displaced by the boat’s hull. It roughly equates to the boat’s weight when fully loaded. Displacement impacts how a boat handles and its fuel efficiency. A boat displacing 5 tons will handle differently than one displacing 2 tons.
• Freeboard : The distance from the waterline to the upper deck level, indicates how much of the boat is above water. A higher freeboard can mean a drier and potentially safer ride in rough conditions. For example, a boat with 4 feet of freeboard will handle choppy water better than one with 2 feet of freeboard.
• Deadrise : This is the angle of the boat’s hull relative to a flat surface. A higher deadrise (sharp angle) helps cut through waves, providing a smoother ride in choppy conditions. A boat with a 20-degree deadrise will generally perform better in rough water than one with a 10-degree deadrise. Learn more about boat deadrise in a detailed article.
• Air Draft : This is the height of the boat from the waterline to its highest fixed point. It’s important to determine if a boat can fit under fixed bridges or other overhead obstructions. A sailboat with a mast height (air draft) of 50 feet needs to consider bridge clearances on its route.
• Gross Tonnage : This volume measurement is used for large vessels and is calculated based on the total internal space of the ship. Ship tonnage is important for regulatory, safety, and commercial purposes. A cargo ship with a gross tonnage of 50,000 indicates its large size and capacity.
• Ballast : This is the weight (often lead or water) added low in the boat to improve stability. Ballast is particularly important in sailboats to counterbalance the force of the wind. A sailboat with 2,000 pounds of ballast will heel (lean) less and be more stable than one with 1,000 pounds.
• Waterline Length (LWL) : The length of the boat at the waterline, can be shorter than the LOA due to overhangs. LWL affects speed and stability; longer waterline lengths generally allow for higher speeds. For instance, a boat with an LWL of 25 feet may be faster than one with an LWL of 20 feet.

Each of these measurements plays a critical role in the design, functionality, and performance of a boat. They are essential for builders, designers, and users to understand the capabilities and limitations of a vessel in various conditions.

How Do You Measure A Boat Hull?

Measuring a boat hull involves determining several key dimensions that are critical for understanding the boat’s design, performance, and suitability for certain conditions. Here are the main measurements taken for a boat hull:

• Length Overall (LOA) : Measure from the furthest point forward ( bow ) to the furthest point aft ( stern ), including any overhangs.
• Length on Deck (LOD) : Measure the length of the deck, excluding overhangs.
• Waterline Length (LWL) : Measure the length of the boat at the waterline, which may be different from the LOA due to the hull shape and overhangs.
• Beam : Measure the widest part of the boat hull, which is usually found at or near the midpoint of the boat’s length. The beam measurement is crucial as it affects stability and interior space.
• Draft : Measure the vertical distance from the waterline to the lowest part of the hull (usually the bottom of the keel ). This tells you how deep the water needs to be for the boat to float without hitting the bottom.
• Freeboard : Measure the distance from the waterline to the upper edge of the hull. This measurement gives an idea of how high the boat sits in the water and can affect how dry the boat stays in rough conditions.
• Deadrise : This is the angle between the hull bottom and a horizontal plane at the boat’s beam. It’s measured in degrees and indicates how the hull will handle different sea conditions. A higher deadrise usually means better performance in rough water.
• Hull Depth : Measure the distance from the deepest point of the hull to the top of the deck. This gives an idea of the overall volume of the hull.

These measurements are typically made using measuring tapes, laser measuring tools, or, in the design phase, through CAD (Computer-Aided Design) software. Accurate hull measurements are essential for boat builders, designers, and owners, as they influence the boat’s capacity, stability , speed, and seaworthiness.

How Does the Coast Guard Measure Boat Length?

The U.S. Coast Guard measures boat length primarily based on the Length Overall (LOA) method. This approach involves measuring the boat from the tip of the bow in its most forward position to the end of the stern in its most aft position.

This includes all structural and integral parts of the boat but does not include removable attachments and fittings such as outboard motors, bow pulpits, rudders , and similar extensions.

It’s important to note that the Coast Guard’s measurement for boat length can differ from how length is defined for registration or documentation purposes, or how it might be described by manufacturers or in boating literature.

For instance, Length on Deck (LOD) or Waterline Length (LWL) might be used in different contexts but are not the standard measurements the Coast Guard uses for defining a boat’s length.

The Coast Guard’s method of measuring boat length is significant for regulatory and safety reasons. For example, certain boating laws, safety requirements, and regulations apply differently to boats depending on their length class. Therefore, accurate measurement is crucial for compliance with federal and state boating laws .

About the author

I worked as an officer in the deck department on various types of vessels, including oil and chemical tankers, LPG carriers, and even reefer and TSHD in the early years. Currently employed as Marine Surveyor carrying cargo, draft, bunker, and warranty survey.

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Air draft and ICW bridges

• Thread starter captron
• Start date Aug 29, 2017
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

In theory would this work (I don't think I would have the nerve to try it ) I have a Legend 40.5 if I see the tide boards reading 64 ft of clearance I will "ding" my vhf antenna on the bridge girders ,at 1800 rpm I'm cruising at 7 knots with a Flex-O-Fold 3 blade prop which at that speed and rpm will cause the stern to squat a good 6 inches at 2000 rpm maybe about 8 inches (can you say over propped) ??? my question in theory.......with the stern squatting 6 to 8 inches would that reduce the air draft???? look forward to your replies Capt. Ron  

Captain Larry-DH

Yes, in theory. It would increase your aft-leaning angle, and assuming your mast is stepped somewhere just forward of amidships, the deck level should not be raised by the bow wave. My question: Do you feel so confident in the accuracy of tide boards and tide tables that you'd risk your mast by making a 7-knot approach with little margin for error? I'd creep up on it if it was close.  

Larry, That's what I do.............."sneak up on it"  

Have not worked out the math but it seems to me that a squat of 6 inches at the stern would only translate perhaps as 2 inches at the mast at best. There are other factors like for how long can the boat hold the squat before its depth starts decreasing. The strength and direction of currents will also influence the depth of the squat. I think at best is a poor gamble; the tried and true methods are to plan arrival and approach at low tide or to heel the vessel.  

We are always checking air draft. With speed we ride up on the bow wave being higher in the water. Yes we've bent antennas and anchor lights. Going slow we clear at our desired height. All U Get  

All U Get said: We are always checking air draft. With speed we ride up on the bow wave being higher in the water. Yes we've bent antennas and anchor lights. Going slow we clear at our desired height. All U Get Click to expand

Please notify us when and where you plan to try this method CR. I'll sail over to watch!  

If I had to cheat on air draft, I'd be more likely to run my main halyard over to my tender that I had a fat boy run along side the boat & try to pull the sailboat over into a little bit of a heal with the weight of the tender. I would need a good reason to try even this trick. Waiting for proper tide would still be my first choice. If you are going to try that other trick, you might want to invest in some nylon bolts to mount your antenna with. Spare nylon bolts are cheaper than antennas.  

Ggrizzard. If you go take pictures. This could be a viral YouTube video in the making. Maybe American Home Video entry. They have a 100,000 grand prize.  

I'm on it!  

I have 64.5 draft, went from NC to FL, made them all but scrap ant. several times and always went thru questionable ones on low tide, (had to wait 3 times, couple hours at most) even pulled up to the fenders and walked to boat thru. It seems to me if the stern is squatting, with the mast forward of the moment it might actually lift a little.  

I went thru the dismal swamp with a reported 64 ft bridge (there is no tide in the canal and the Corp of Engineers keep the level to around 6 ft deep). I have a 63' 4" clearance to the top of the wind instrument, I also have a 3 ft vhf antenna and a 4 ft SSB/DSC antenna. Going under the 64 ft bridge was a nail bitter (remember not tide or wake to worry about - sort off). The metal antennas scrapped the bottom of the bridge. I lost the bird spike on the wind vane because it was hit by one of the antennas. One of the unknowns and my concern is when you are under the bridge and a wave/wake hits your boat you may bounce and hit the bottom of the bridge. I continued all the way to Miami with a couple of nail bitters/scraping the bottom of the bridges with antennas. I did go out from FLL to Government cut because there is a fix bridge in between FLL and Mia. The worse case was a bridge in Fl that had a 6 inch difference between hi and lo tide and no high board.  

Velero49 said: I went thru the dismal swamp with a reported 64 ft bridge (there is no tide in the canal and the Corp of Engineers keep the level to around 6 ft deep). I have a 63' 4" clearance to the top of the wind instrument, I also have a 3 ft vhf antenna and a 4 ft SSB/DSC antenna. Going under the 64 ft bridge was a nail bitter (remember not tide or wake to worry about - sort off). The metal antennas scrapped the bottom of the bridge. I lost the bird spike on the wind vane because it was hit by one of the antennas. One of the unknowns and my concern is when you are under the bridge and a wave/wake hits your boat you may bounce and hit the bottom of the bridge. I continued all the way to Miami with a couple of nail bitters/scraping the bottom of the bridges with antennas. I did go out from FLL to Government cut because there is a fix bridge in between FLL and Mia. The worse case was a bridge in Fl that had a 6 inch difference between hi and lo tide and no high board. Click to expand

jssailem said: Ggrizzard. If you go take pictures. This could be a viral YouTube video in the making. Maybe American Home Video entry. They have a 100,000 grand prize. Click to expand

ggrizzard said: Please notify us when and where you plan to try this method CR. I'll sail over to watch! Click to expand

Ok, I said in theory, I didn't say I was going to try it....... I know some of you will be disappointed to hear that. Regards Capt. Ron  

For us, the boat IS the family pet.  

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Advice Boat under 50' Air Draft

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Looking for boat suggestions. We are retiring in June and will be looking. We have a house at Pickwick Lake, Tennessee. Right at the start of the Tenn-Tom waterway. Wanting to find a couples cruiser between 33 and 38 foot. We would like to be able to go up and down the Tenn-Tom without having to drop the mast. Plan is to seasonally cruise in the gulf and Florida for between 2 to 6+ months and then back up to Pickwick. So will need to find something in with air draft less that 50' and draft less than 5' to go up and down the Teen-Tom.. I couple that I have been seeing that meets this is the Island Packet 32/35/37 and Beneteau 331/361. Also, kinda like the idea of pilothouse like the Beneteau Evasion 34 or NautiCat 33. Seems like a lot I look at don't meet the air draft need or list the air draft in the listing. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Budget 20K to around 90k with 50-60k being sweet spot.  

My second attempt to suggest the Jeanneau 349. Has mast height and was popular in shole draft. The standard keel is over 6’. 2014-15 should be inside your budget. Happy hunting whatever you find  

I'm sorry but this reads like; "are they looking for a trawler?" I have family in Tennessee near Chattanooga Chickamauga Lake area. Too many years went by for me, now I'm old but I still sit here and think how cool would it be to do the icw down across Florida, hit the Gulf, up the Alabama to Tenn Tom.  

Some weed chopping boating in the area it sounds. A trawler might be just the ticket. I’m familiar with the Nonsuch and the Beneteaus mentioned. The boats with swing keel options kinda start just over a 50’ mast height. I think the new 380 and all it’s predecessors were just over like 54’ plus VHF. There are a lot of 349’s coming off fleets all with shallow keel.  

Sounds like my Sabre 34 with a centerboard would fit your criteria. But, so would many similar boats. I'd probably look for a downeast style power boat for that trip but that may be out of your budget. You might find some older trawlers in your price range, Cape Dory, Mainship etc.  

The Saber would be perfect yes.  

The Saber would be perfect yes. Yup Trawlers are big bucks. There is a 50’ Swift in a custom blue here. I think the base price is 700€. It’s stunning. A mainship might come in under 90 but reflect in its condition. I’ve met lots of trawlers doing the loop. They buy the boat for a year and another looper takes ownership. Then there is the new price for common fuels! The Delhi trawler from Poland is electric  

We have gone back and forth on the trawler or sailboat. I have also considered looking at some motorsailers and pilothouse sailboats. One that is high on the maybe list is a Schucker motorsailer or Nauticat 33.  

Those are two extremely different boats. Back in the day, the Schucker had a terrible reputation regarding build quality. A surveyor friend had a standing joke that he would say when he surveyed a disaster of a boat, "At least you can say its better than a Schucker." Nauticat had a reputation of a very high build quality. Jeff  

I would say you would have to go by your actual feelings if you're passionate must have sailing in your life and it's the top of your list of things to do then yes get a sailboat but there are affordable trawlers in the same price range they don't all have twin engines and for a couple it doesn't have to be 50 feet in a trawler "just saying"  

A Bayliner Motoryacht 38 with Diesel engines. Can still be found in very good conditions an their layouts are great. (TRAWLER) year mid 80 to 90,s  

Contact Rooke Sails. He is the premier Pickwick sailboat dealer. Chris Rooke is the owner, he is great. He sold most of us our boats in the Pickwick sailing and cruising association. Look for it on Facebook. Be sure to join the association for the social events and racing (there is a cruising boat fleet) Look forward to meeting you. Even if you don’t buy the boat from Chris, he will transport it to Pickwick at a reasonable cost. He tows your boat with a crane truck, sets up the mast and drops it in the drink. Rooke Sails  

If you’re open to an older boat I would suggest you consider a Hinckley Bermuda 40. The first series of B-40’s ( the “customs”) have a 49 ft bridge clearance. All B-40’s are shoal draft at 4’3“, centerboard up. If you can find one refurbished, you will have a life-time boat that turns heads at every dock. Extremely seaworthy, incredible build, classic of classics- I could go on and on. If refurbished is not important, can sometimes find one for less than $100k  

Morgan 41' OI, leave your mast at a yard every fall and put rig on in the spring when you get back to go sail. Takes a few hours and leaves a clean deck up the Tenn Tom, you can also lay up to the bank under the trees to get out of the sun and any tows that may pass in the night.  

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Morgan out island 41

The morgan out island 41 is a 41.25ft masthead sloop designed by charles morgan and built in fiberglass by morgan yachts since 1971., 1000 units have been built..

The Morgan out island 41 is a heavy sailboat which is under powered. It is reasonably stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a bluewater cruising boat. The fuel capacity is good. There is a good water supply range.

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Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Based on the NICHOLSON 58/60 - BLUEWATER 58 with modifications including a new deck layout better suited to ocean racing and an enlarged rig. Used for the ‘Clipper Round the World’ event until 2003. Replaced with the CLIPPER 68 for the 2005 race.

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