snipe sailboat weight

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• Sailboat Guide

Snipe is a 15 ′ 5 ″ / 4.7 m monohull sailboat designed by William F. Crosby and built by Lillia (Cantiere Nautico Lillia), Schock W.D., Grampian Marine, Nickels Boat Works, Inc., Helms - Jack A. Helms Co., Jibetech, Aubin, AX Boats, Eichenlaub Boat Co., and Loftland Sail-craft Inc. starting in 1931.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Origins in the US, built, sailed and raced around the world, to this day, and one of the most popular sailing dinghies ever. (In its heyday, the largest sailboat racing class.) See international web site for the many fleets and associations around the world.

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Snipe Class International Racing Association

Class contact information.

Click below

Class Email

Class Website

One-Design Class Type: Dinghy

Was this boat built to be sailed by youth or adults? Both

Approximately how many class members do you have? 500

Photo Credit:Matias Capizzano

Photo Credit: Matias Capizzano

About Snipe Class International Racing Association

Serious Sailing, Serious Fun® is what you can expect from the International Snipe Class. The Snipe’s design allows for a wide variety of two person teams, from couples, to parent/child. Try the Snipe no matter what your sailing abilities and become part of a worldwide family.

*Resources are numerous (below) Please see: Tuning: http://www.snipetoday.org/category/articles/technical-experts/tuning/ Boat Handling & Training: http://www.snipetoday.org/category/articles/technical-experts/boat-handling/ Equipment: http://www.snipetoday.org/category/articles/technical-experts/boats-equipments/ Tactics & Strategy: http://www.snipetoday.org/category/articles/technical-experts/tactics-strategy/

additional websites: Int: https://www.snipe.org/ SnipeToday: http://www.snipetoday.org/

Boats Produced: 31665

Class boat builder(s):

JibeTechnology, RI, USA Diemer – Brazil RioTecna – Argentina DB Marine – Italy J2Snipe – Spain Zeltic – Spain Tsudijo Racing – Japan Persson Marine Japan

Approximately how many boats are in the USA/North America? 18000

Where is your One-Design class typically sailed in the USA? List regions of the country:

All regions with stronger fleets in Southern California, midwest & great lakes, Florida, Atlanta, Annapolis, Boston,

Does this class have a spinnaker or gennaker? No

How many people sail as a crew including the helm?  2

Ideal combined weight of range of crew:  285-320

Portsmouth Yardstick Rating:   91.90

Boat Designed in  1931

Length (feet/inches): 15’6″

Beam: 5′

Weight of rigged boat without sails: 381

Draft: 6″ up, 3’3″ down

Mast Height: 21′ 3″

Class Rules (PDF Doc)

Back to One-Design Central

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Snipe Deck Layout

Whisker Pole Launching System

The Snipe uses a retractable boom-launched whisker pole. The crew deploys the pole with an automatic cleating system led through two 29 mm Carbo stand-up blocks. Two 29 mm T2 Carbo blocks hold up the whisker pole line.

Carbo Ratchamatic Mainsheet®

Use this revolutionary load-sensing ratchet as a secondary mainsheet ratchet to give the skipper extra holding power upwind. As the load decreases around the weather mark, the ratchet automatically turns off for a smooth release.

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Class History

This popular racing dinghy has an active international class association that attracts some of the best sailors in the world. The boat's bendy rig and simple sail plan allows a broad range of crew combinations and weights to make this modern, tactical racer great fun to sail.

Links International Snipe Class McLube™ Harken Canvas

Boat Specifications

LOA: 15 ft 6 in (4.7 m) LWL: 13 ft 6 in (4.1 m) Beam: 5 ft (1.5 m) Sail Area: 128 sq ft (11.8 sq m) Weight: 381 lb (173 kg)

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30 Years of Snipe Sailing

April 28, 2020

Quantum sail consultant, sailmaker, and accomplished Snipe sailor, Xandi Paradeda, reflects on the development of the Snipe class over the last thirty years and gives insight into the sail design and testing process.

I started sailing Snipes in 1988, more than 30 years ago. At that time, there was no standard boat or mast like there is today. Many sailors used handmade wooden hulls from a variety of manufacturers, each hull different from the next.

Thor was the strongest Brazilian boat builder, and their revolutionary closed cockpit design changed the class forever. Thor spent years working to create one of the best boats in the world, both in layout optimization and construction quality. Many boats of this generation are still competing on the national scene and can be just as quick as newer boats.

Standardizing masts was another challenge in this class. Inconsistencies in aluminum alloy from the same supplier and the difficulty of the anodizing process created an immense challenge. Limited spreader adjustments and the lack of stay tension equipment only added to the challenge of standardization. Consequently, it was almost impossible for the sails to follow a pattern, as each mast required a different sail design.

It was difficult to be a beginner at that time because we could not copy the best sailors. Torben Grael, Paulo Santos, Marco Aurélio Paradeda, Boris Ostergren, and Ivan Pimentel−no one had the same equipment, tuning guide, or material guide.

I won my first Brazilian nationals in 1992, at Lake Guarapiranga in São Paulo. I used the BRA 12115 hull, which had already made history through the accomplishments of helmsmen Nelson Piccolo and Marco Aurélio Paradeda, who had won all possible titles in the class. I believe that sailing with BRA 12115 helped me achieve the results I did in the class. The 12,000 series had a very thin bow, which proved to be an advantage with the low wave conditions on Lake Guarapiranga. Old boats also did not measure the “moment of inertia” and had a flat hull, which again were advantageous for the venue.  Although the boat was almost falling apart, it remained fast and competitive until that year. Winning the 1992 nationals was a great result for a wooden hull built for the 1959 World Championship in Porto Alegre, Brazil.

When Snipe standardization began in Brazil, the vast majority of sailors used Thor boats with Lemão masts. At this time, North Sails and Nils Ostergren Sails dominated the national sails market, and it became possible to “copy” the equipment that the fastest sailors were using.

In 1993, the Snipe World Championship was again held in Porto Alegre, Brazil, 34 years after the 1959 World Championship. I was able to see newer fiberglass Persson boats with a thick bow, optimized layout, and Proctor rigging with length and opening adjustment for the spreaders. These boats opened my horizons because my biggest competitors in Brazil did not care much about what hull number your boat was. They were guys who sailed very well and spent many hours training but did not place enough importance on equipment development and regulation.

Over the next few years, I developed tuning guides for spreader adjustments, mast chock, rake, and tension. Back then, rake used to be measured twice: first with an initial slight forward push on the mast and then again as a final rake. The difference in the two rakes was the tension, and the tension was always 12 centimeters. The lateral stay stretched position was very sensitive; usually the same crew member pulled the forestay.

In those days, I had a Chilean-made Persson boat, Proctor standard mast, and North sails. The mast was stiff and uncomfortable in the light wind. We won the Brazilian Championship in 1995, 1996, and 1997. The hours I spent training during that time shaped how I sail Snipes today.

In 1997, the first Lemão-built boats with thick bows appeared–a trend first initiated by Persson hulls that is still followed today. These Brazilian boats, which had a competitive price and were compatible with South American market, helped to make Lemão one of the largest boat builders in the world.

In the 90s, I sailed in the 470 class as well. The 470 is extremely sensitive to rig tune and has many variables that must be adjusted in each small wind variation. My crew was Bernardo Arndt (Baby), who had already participated in the Olympics in Barcelona. He helped me develop my ability to regulate the boat and read the sails. Since we were racing in the Olympic class, we competed often and I was able to add experience and develop my sailing skills quickly.

In 1997, the Snipe World Championship was held in San Diego, California, and it brought together lofts from some of the largest sail brands in the world. San Diego is also a renowned location to race for inshore one-design classes. It was there that I met and was well received by fellow Brazilian Rodrigo Meirelles (Aspirina), a who worked as a sailmaker for North Sails. I already had some sails knowledge and could share my feedback about sail design and development. During this period, we used softer masts, like Sidewinder Junior, and since the stiffness of the mast aggressively modifies the shape of the sails, sail designs had to be changed. San Diego has always been a great place to test light wind sails for both North Sails and Quantum Sails, and our job was to balance sail designs to be fast in light, medium, and strong winds. We had to adapt to the soft mast, and we continued to use this mast until 2000. The soft masts and light stay tension led to a significant decrease in crew weight. In those days it was normal to go sailing with 130 kilos of total crew weight. When it was my period as Vice Champion of Snipe Worlds, Pan Americans, and Western Hemisphere, I decided it could not stay like this.

In 2000, in partnership with my great friend Rique Wanderley, we acquired a Danish-made Persson hull and a stiff Proctor standard mast. Yet another mast change. I called Rodrigo Meirelles and asked him to find a boat for that mast, as we were heading to Midwinters in the USA to develop the sails for the Snipe World Championship taking place the following year in Punta del Este, Uruguay. Chris Snow stayed with us during the three-week event. In each Midwinter event, we made some sail changes. It was my first long-term development work. In December, we won the Snipe World Championship without even sailing the last race.

In 2003, a very well-made sail appeared on the market. It was made in Rio de Janeiro. Ricardo Lobato (Blu) was the sail designer and Bruno Bethlem the main sailor. They were creating sails at Quantum Sails Brazil with a sail design following an emerging new trend. That year there was a big change in snipe regulation, and, in response, we started to use a lot more tension in the stays. But I was late to make this change and did not adapt at the speed I should have. That was a lesson that I have never forgotten. We made some changes to meet the new regulations after the Snipe World Championship in Sweden in 2003, and the tension gauge equipment became an essential part of the Snipe sailor’s life. Stays with a lot of tension and stiffer masts increased the crew weights to 140 kilos or more.

In those days, my brother Roberto Paradeda and I started to work with Olimpic Sails, a respected Italian sail brand in the Optimist, 420, and 470. We started the Snipe sails development process in 2003, and that same year we used the Sidewinder Gold mast for the first time at the Snipe World Championship in Sweden. At the time, many sailors had begun to have access to good sails and equipment in South America. In Brazil, we had access to Quantum Sails Brazil, Olimpic Sails, North Sails, Lemão boats, and Lemão and Sidewinder masts.

With increased access to quality suppliers, the development with Olimpic Sails was promising, and there was a great collaboration in Brazil with us; Renzo, the Olimpic sail designer; and the Olimpic Sails owners, who had a great passion for the Snipe Class. In 2004, we won the Hemisphere, and in 2007 we won the Pan-American games.

With my brothers Roberto and Ricardo, we opened Olimpic Sails Brazil. Finally, we had a sail loft in our hometown of Porto Alegre, Brazil. I now had a factory in my home to speed up the sail development and make them for the market. At that time, Bruno Bethlem had already joined our team, and we collaborated on sail development that became a worldwide standard. With the Sidewinder Gold mast and Olimpic Sails, we won three consecutive Snipe Worlds Championship in 2011, 2013, and 2015, each year with a different crew.

It was at Olimpic Sails that we started the process of deepening the draft of the sails at the top and flattening the lower part, the opposite of what the European and San Diego schools had done for years. Only sails made in Argentina had some deep options in the top, but that was lost because of their huge variety of models and versions.

When our loft started working with Quantum Sails in 2016, we were excited for the collaboration, since existing Quantum Snipe sails had a great reputation in the class. Quantum’s George Szabo and Roberto Paradeda put a lot of time and effort into sail development, promoting changes that would continue to please both North American and South American sailors. After tireless hours of work on the design software, changes in the sail loft, and water tests, we developed competitive sails for the Snipe World Championship in Valencia, Spain. The semi-radial models were fast and perfect for the conditions at that venue, but, unfortunately, our sails did not win the world title as they had been since 2009.

We returned to Brazil and continued working hard on sail development, building a flatter model that would require more open spreaders in the strong wind and more closed spreaders in the light wind. The flatter sail performed better in light winds. The initial P4 mainsail model used the spreaders in a closed position on the Sidewinder Gold mast and performed well in medium and strong winds, but performed poorly in light wind, so we began modifications again.

With great support from Bruno Bethlem, George Szabo, and Roberto Paradeda, the C5 model was built and improved upon the P4. The C5 performed better in light wind because of the closed spreaders allowing the leech to open in. In strong wind, we opened the spreaders and did not lose performance against the “P4” model. After all this work, we tested the model in the Snipe Brazilian Championship in São Paulo, an event with light wind and flat water. The sail for the 2019 Snipe World Championship in Ilhabela, Brazil, was born. Brazilian-made sails won the World title once again! We also won second and fourth places at this event, in addition to the World Junior title.

Sails are a matter of personal taste. When you use a sail, you must feel good with it. I believe that everyone has their individual tastes and characteristics developed over years of training. The sailor’s equipment and adjustments should help the sailor perform better. Respect your individuality as sailors, and we, as sailmakers, will always try to make your job easier by providing information and support.

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Boat Sailor

Snipe sailing boat: a thrilling adventure on the waters.

Ahoy there, fellow sailing enthusiasts! If you’re ready to embark on an exhilarating journey across the waters, look no further than the Snipe sailing boat. In this article, I’ll guide you through the captivating world of Snipe sailing, offering insights, recommendations, and a sprinkle of personal experience to make your sailing ventures unforgettable.

Introduction to Snipe Sailing

Sailing, for many, is not just a hobby but a passion that transcends the mundane. The Snipe sailing boat, born out of this passion, has been capturing the hearts of sailors since its inception. Let’s delve into the basics of what makes Snipe sailing a unique and thrilling experience.

History and Origin

The genesis of snipe sailing: a visionary design.

In the early 20th century, the inception of Snipe sailing can be traced back to the visionary boat designer, William Crosby. With a specific goal in mind, Crosby sought to craft a small, affordable, and competitive racing sailboat that would be easily manageable by a crew of two. This marked the genesis of the Snipe sailboat.

The Birth of the Snipe: Design and Creation

In 1931, after meticulous planning and design work, Crosby completed the blueprint for the Snipe. The first boat was constructed in his boat shop located in San Diego, California. The name “Snipe” was chosen as a nod to the agile and fast-flying game bird, symbolizing the boat’s intended characteristics of speed and agility. The boat’s design aimed to allow for easy trailering and launching, adding a layer of accessibility to its appeal.

Rapid Growth and Competitive Spirit: Snipe Class Emerges

The Snipe quickly gained popularity for its exceptional sailing performance and affordability. In 1932, recognizing its international appeal, the International Snipe Class Association (ISCA) was established. The inaugural Snipe Class National Championship took place in 1934, setting the stage for the class’s growth and competitive spirit.

Global Recognition: The International Snipe Class Association

The global appeal of the Snipe led to the formation of the International Snipe Class Association in 1932. The first World Championship was held in 1947, solidifying the Snipe’s status as a globally recognized and competitive sailing class.

Design Evolution and Enduring Characteristics

While the Snipe class has seen some modifications to enhance performance and durability over the years, the fundamental characteristics of the boat have remained consistent. The strict adherence to a one-design philosophy ensures that all Snipe boats are essentially identical, placing the emphasis on sailors’ skill and tactics rather than equipment.

A Global Phenomenon: Snipe Sailing Around the World

Snipe sailing has transcended borders, with fleets and championships held in numerous countries globally. The class has produced accomplished sailors who have transitioned to compete in prestigious sailing events. The boat’s versatility and accessibility make it a popular choice for sailors of varying skill levels, contributing to its enduring global appeal.

Preserving Tradition: The Thriving Snipe Community

Today, the Snipe class continues to thrive, boasting a vibrant community of sailors dedicated to preserving the traditions and competitive spirit of this historic sailboat. The enduring popularity of the Snipe is a testament to William Crosby’s vision, which successfully created an affordable and exciting racing boat that has withstood the test of time.

Snipe Sailing Boat Design

The devil is in the details, they say. In the case of Snipe sailing, the design of the boat plays a crucial role in its performance. Let’s break down the anatomy of a Snipe sailing boat, exploring its design elements and how they contribute to an unmatched sailing experience.

Choosing the Right Snipe Boat

Not all Snipe boats are created equal. Choosing the right one for your sailing adventures involves considering various factors. From size to material, I’ll navigate through the key aspects that will help you make an informed decision.

Choosing the right Snipe boat is a crucial decision that involves considering various factors to ensure a good fit for your sailing preferences and skill level. Here is a guide on how to select the right Snipe boat:

Determine Your Skill Level:

• Consider your sailing experience and skill level. If you are a beginner, you may want a boat that is forgiving and easy to handle. Experienced sailors may prefer a high-performance option.

New or Used:

• Decide whether you want to purchase a new or used Snipe boat. New boats offer the latest design features, while used boats can be more budget-friendly. Carefully inspect used boats for any signs of damage or wear.

Budget Considerations:

• Establish a budget for your Snipe boat purchase. This should include not only the cost of the boat but also any additional equipment, maintenance, and potential upgrades.

One-Design Class Compliance:

• Ensure that the Snipe boat you are considering complies with the one-design class rules. The strict one-design nature of the Snipe class means that all boats should be essentially identical, focusing on skill rather than boat performance.

Check the Hull and Rigging:

• Inspect the hull for any signs of damage, delamination, or repairs. Check the rigging, including the mast, boom, and standing rigging, for wear and tear. A well-maintained hull and rigging contribute to the boat’s overall performance and safety.

Sails and Equipment:

• Assess the condition of the sails. If the boat comes with multiple sets, evaluate their condition and choose the set that aligns with your sailing needs. Check the boat’s equipment, including the rudder, centerboard, and any additional gear that may be included.

Sail Number and Measurement Certificate:

• Verify that the boat has a valid measurement certificate issued by the International Snipe Class Association (ISCA). The sail number should match the certificate. This ensures that the boat meets class standards.
• Whenever possible, take the boat for a test sail. This allows you to assess how it handles on the water and whether it meets your expectations in terms of performance and comfort.

Research the Boat’s History:

• If purchasing a used boat, inquire about its history. Know how many owners it has had, any significant races or events it has participated in, and if it has undergone any major repairs or modifications.

Consult with Snipe Class Experts:

• Seek advice from experienced Snipe sailors or class experts. They can provide valuable insights into the specific characteristics of different boats and help you make an informed decision.

By carefully considering these factors, you can choose a Snipe boat that aligns with your sailing goals and provides an enjoyable and competitive experience on the water.

Essential Gear and Equipment

Setting sail without the proper gear is like embarking on a quest without a map. We’ll discuss the essential gear and equipment every Snipe sailor should have on board, ensuring a safe and enjoyable journey.

Mainsail and Jib

These are the primary sails for the Snipe. Ensure they are in good condition, without excessive wear or damage. It’s common for sailors to have multiple sets of sails for different wind conditions.

Mast and Rigging:

Check the mast for any signs of damage or corrosion. Ensure the rigging, including shrouds and forestay, is secure and properly tensioned.

Centerboard and Rudder:

Centerboard

Ensure the centerboard is functioning properly and is free of any damage. It should move smoothly within the trunk.

Check the rudder for wear and ensure that it moves freely. Confirm that the tiller and extension are in good condition.

Lines and Sheets:

Halyards and Sheets

Inspect all lines for fraying or wear. Halyards raise and lower the sails, while sheets control sail trim. Make sure they run smoothly through blocks and are properly secured.

Buoyancy Bags:

Buoyancy Bags or Bags

These inflatable bags are placed inside the hull to provide buoyancy in case of a capsize. They contribute to the self-rescue ability of the boat.

PFDs (Personal Flotation Devices):

A Coast Guard-approved life jacket must be worn by each person on board. Ensure they are in good condition and properly sized for all crew members.

Safety Equipment:

Essential for signaling on the water.

A throwable rescue line that can be used in case of emergencies.

Basic medical supplies for addressing minor injuries.

Bailers and Sponge:

Trapeze Harness

Tiller Extension

A longer extension allows the helmsman to steer comfortably while hiking out.

Before each sailing session, conduct a thorough check of all equipment to ensure everything is in working order. Regular maintenance and prompt replacement of worn or damaged items contribute to a safer and more enjoyable Snipe sailing experience.

Snipe Sailing Techniques

Sailing is an art, and mastering the techniques can turn a good sailor into a great one. Learn the ropes (quite literally!) of Snipe sailing techniques, from tacking to jibing , and discover how to harness the wind for an effortless glide.

Maintenance Tips

Like any vessel, Snipe boats require care and attention. I’ll share some practical maintenance tips to keep your Snipe sailing boat in top-notch condition, ensuring longevity and optimal performance.

Popular Snipe Sailing Destinations

The world is your oyster when you’re sailing on a Snipe boat. Explore some of the most breathtaking and popular Snipe sailing destinations worldwide, each offering a unique blend of challenges and scenic beauty.

Snipe sailing is enjoyed by enthusiasts around the world, and there are numerous popular destinations where Snipe sailors gather for competitions and recreational sailing. Some of the most well-known and beloved Snipe sailing destinations include:

San Diego, California, USA

San Diego holds historical significance as the birthplace of the Snipe class. The area boasts a strong Snipe sailing community, and the picturesque waters of San Diego Bay provide an excellent venue for both local and international events.

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Brazil has a thriving Snipe sailing scene, and Rio de Janeiro is a hotspot for Snipe regattas. The challenging conditions of Guanabara Bay make it a favorite destination for competitive sailors.

Riviera Nayarit, Mexico

With its beautiful beaches and favorable sailing conditions, Riviera Nayarit in Mexico is a popular destination for Snipe sailors. The area hosts various regattas that attract participants from Mexico and beyond.

Lagos, Portugal

The Algarve region, particularly around Lagos, is known for its stunning coastline and reliable winds, making it a favorite among Snipe sailors. Portugal has hosted several Snipe World Championships.

Barcelona, Spain

Barcelona, with its rich maritime history, is a popular destination for Snipe sailors. The Mediterranean waters around Barcelona offer diverse conditions for both recreational sailing and competitive events.

Lake Garda, Italy

Lake Garda, located in the Italian Alps, is renowned for its consistent and strong winds. The lake often hosts international Snipe regattas, attracting sailors from all over Europe and beyond.

Cienfuegos, Cuba

Cienfuegos, situated on Cuba’s southern coast, is a rising star in the Snipe sailing world. The warm waters of the Caribbean and the enthusiasm of the local sailing community make it an inviting destination.

Tokyo Bay, Japan

With the inclusion of sailing in the Olympic Games, Tokyo Bay gained prominence as a sailing destination. It has become a hub for various sailing classes, including Snipe events.

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Argentina has a strong tradition in Snipe sailing, and Buenos Aires is a focal point for regattas and championships. The challenging conditions of the Rio de la Plata add excitement to the sailing experience.

Lake Eustis, Florida, USA

Lake Eustis in Florida is a popular destination for Snipe sailors in the United States. The lake hosts regional and national Snipe events, attracting participants from across the country.

These destinations offer a mix of stunning natural surroundings, diverse sailing conditions, and vibrant sailing communities, making them appealing for Snipe sailors seeking both competitive racing and recreational sailing experiences.

Racing in Snipe Class

For the competitive souls out there, Snipe sailing offers a vibrant racing scene. Discover the thrill of racing in Snipe class events, where tactics, skill, and a bit of adrenaline come together for an unforgettable experience.

Challenges and How to Overcome Them

Smooth sailing isn’t always guaranteed. Explore the challenges that Snipe sailors may face and gain valuable insights on overcoming these hurdles, turning them into opportunities for growth and skill enhancement.

Community and Events

Sailing is not just a solitary activity—it’s a community. Discover the vibrant Snipe sailing community and explore the events that bring like-minded sailors together, fostering camaraderie and shared passion.

Snipe Sailing Etiquette

Every community has its own set of unwritten rules. Delve into the etiquette of Snipe sailing, ensuring you navigate the waters with respect for fellow sailors and the environment.

In conclusion, Snipe sailing isn’t just a sport—it’s a way of life. As you embark on your own Snipe sailing journey, may the winds be ever in your favor. Happy sailing!

Is Snipe sailing suitable for beginners?

Absolutely! Snipe sailing is welcoming to beginners, and many sailing schools offer courses to get you started.

How do I choose the right Snipe boat size?

Consider factors like your sailing experience, crew size, and the type of waters you’ll be navigating. Consult with experienced sailors for personalized advice.

Are there Snipe sailing events for families?

Yes, many Snipe sailing events are family-friendly, creating an enjoyable experience for sailors of all ages.

What’s the typical lifespan of a Snipe sailing boat?

With proper maintenance, a Snipe boat can last for many years, providing countless hours of sailing enjoyment.

Can I participate in Snipe sailing races as a solo sailor?

While it’s more common to sail with a crew, some events may allow solo participants. Check the specific rules of the racing event you’re interested in.

Michael Thompson

Embarking on a lifelong love affair with the sea, I found solace and exhilaration in the art of sailing. From navigating treacherous waters to harnessing the wind's untamed power, my passion has evolved into a mission to inspire others. Join me on a voyage of discovery as we explore the vast horizons of sailing's timeless allure.

More to Explore

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Sailing in the Caribbean

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SNIPE TUNING GUIDE

Dear Snipe sailor:

Thank you for choosing North Sails for your Snipe. As Snipe sailors ourselves we truly share your enthusiasm for this great boat and the worldwide camaraderie that Snipe sailors share. We wish you many happy seasons of racing your boat and hope that whenever you have any questions about making your boat go fast that you will give us a call. We are always pushing to make our sails faster, longer lasting and easier to use and we always welcome your comments.

In this tuning guide we have tried to introduce a healthy dose of “why” we do certain things and what we are looking to accomplish with certain settings. You will find that the settings on your particular boat will vary a bit from the numbers given here. The important thing is to keep an open mind and a sensitive touch on the tiller. With a bit of practice and by following the principles outlined on the next few pages you should find yourself going faster and getting the best performance out of your boat.

Good Luck and Good Snipe Sailing!!

Sailing is a very equipment intensive sport. To achieve the best possible results we must optimize our equipment to extent that the Snipe class rules allow. This involves taking a top to bottom look at all our equipment and taking a “no compromise” approach.

THE HULL Make sure that your hull is minimum weight (381 lbs.) and that it is as smooth as possible. Fill and fair all imperfections in the hull. Pay special attention to the area around the bailer.

Most top sailors sharpen the last 4-5’ of the chines and the intersection of the transom and hull in the back of the boat. This allows the water to clear away from the hull more smoothly and promotes planing quicker when the breeze is up.

THE MAST The mast and its tuning are probably the single most important thing, to good consistent boat speed in a Snipe. Presently there are four “popular” masts in use, Sidewinder Gold, Sidewinder, Proctor and Persson. The Sidewinder Gold is the stiffest followed by the Sidewinder, Proctor and Persson.

It is important to know that no two masts are exactly the same and each boat will need a little bit of fine tuning to get it set up right. It is preferable to have adjustable spreaders (both length and angle) as you will generally want to make some adjustments as you get your boat up to speed.

On many masts especially the stiffer models, you may want to file down the forward part of the mast butt. This will help to induce pre-bend in the mast especially for light air.

CENTERBOARD The class rules allow you to taper the edge of the boat to within 1” off the edge of the board. You should make sure your board is tapered on the front, bottom and aft edges. We suggest a “bullet” type shape for the leading edge and more of a “V” shape for the after edge of the board.

Be sure to rinse your board after sailing in saltwater and dry it completely. This will save it from becoming pitted with corrosion. You want to always wet sand the centerboard before sailing unless it is anodized.

You may want to consider cutting out some of the board in the top of the board where it stays inside the boat when down all the way. This makes the board lighter and less work for the crew to lift. Overweight boats can shave off a few pounds here by cutting away some of the top of the board. Check the SCIRA rulebook for limitations on how much board can be cut out.

LAYOUT OF CONTROLS The layout of control lines is wide open on the Snipe. We suggest running most of the controls to the crew with the exception being the traveler. This allows the skipper to concentrate on driving especially at crowded mark roundings.

THE CREW Competitive crew weights range from 275 lbs. to 325lbs. Generally you can sail lighter in flat water than in rough water. Heavier crews will want to set their boats up for more power (see below) where lighter crews can set up with somewhat flatter sails.

Basic Rig Set Up

With the mast down, we want to adjust our spreader length and angle. These two things determine how much the mast will bend and how much power will be in the sails, and how easy the boat will be to power up in light air and depower in heavy air. Before stepping the mast check the following items:

SPREADER LENGTH This dimension, measured from the side of the mast to where the shroud intersects the spreader. For most boats this length is 16 ¾” (42.5 cm). The length of the spreader affects the side-to-side bend of the mast primarily. After stepping the mast and going sailing you will want to sight up the front side of the mast and make sure it is straight side to side from the deck to the hounds. This is very important: if the mast is bending to leeward in the middle, shorten the spreaders until it is straight. If the mast bows to windward in the middle make the spreaders longer until the mast is straight.

SPREADER ANGLE The angle of the spreaders (tip to tip measurement) affects how much the maximum mast bend will be. Heavier crews will want a larger tip-to-tip measurement (stiffer mast) and lighter crews will want a smaller measurement (softer mast). The starting point for the adjustment on this setting is 29 1/4” (74 cm) measured from shroud to shroud with the spreaders pulled all the way back. In heavy air or with a heavier crew we move the spreaders forward so this measurement is 29 3/4” (76 cm). Check to make sure that the sweep aft on each spreader is the same so that the mast bends consistently from side to side.

FORESTAY Check your forestay so that it is maximum allowable length (mast not touching back of partners). You will want to attached a piece of lightweight shockcord 15” up the forestay and tie it to the bow or stem fitting to keep the forestay snug when the jib is up. This will keep the whisker pole from catching during jibes downwind.

MAST BUTT ANGLE Check the bottom of the mast and make sure it is cut off perfectly square. Any deviance from this can cause the mast to not develop pre-bend or develop too much. If you later find the mast does not develop enough pre-bend, file the front of the mast step casting to allow the mast to rock forward and bend more.

SHROUD ATTACHMENT LOCATIONS For most boats position the shrouds at the maximum forward location of 70” aft of the stem. This will help the main go out further downwind and increase projected sail area. If you are having trouble developing enough power, move the shrouds back slightly which will make the mast somewhat stiffer. See figure 1.

JIB TACK LOCATION Position the jib tack at its maximum forward position 11” back from stem. This helps make the sail plan longer and opens up the slot between the main and jib. See figure 2.

To start attach a 25’ tape measure to your main halyard and pull all the way to the top and lock the halyard in position.

Download the PDF for a chart of the three different settings we use. All measure to the top of the transom. This is based on the Persson deck crown.

Note that it is very important to use a Holt Allen staggered hole style shroud adjuster or Sta-Masters to have fine enough increments on your shroud tensions.

Mast Rake Settings

Now sight up the backside of the mast and make sure the mast is perfectly straight side to side. If it is not you will need to remove shims from one side and add to the other to make the mast straight. The mast should be shimmed snugly side to side at the deck (yet still able to move freely fore and aft).

As a last step, we want to mark the “neutral” position of the mast. With the pusher/puller off and the mast taking its natural position make a mark on the side of the mast at the deck and a corresponding mark on the deck of the boat. Mark both sides of the mast so you can see it on both tacks. Now make marks on the deck 3/8”, 3/4” and 1” in front of neutral. If you feel you have an extra bendy mast (Sidewinder Jr.) make the aft mark 3/8” behind the neutral position.

Now you are set up to go sailing in moderate breeze. The first thing to do when you go sailing is to check the mast bend side to side. Sight up the front of the mast on both tacks and make sure the mast is straight from the deck to the hounds. If it sags to leeward shorten the spreaders. If it pops to windward lengthen them. This is critical to good boat speed.

With the boat hiked flat you want to have an absolutely neutral helm in the boat. You should just need finger tip pressure to hold the tiller. If the boat has lee helm rake the mast back. If it has weather helm rake the mast further forward.

Your North Snipe Main comes set up for a tack line to hold it in place at the mast. Using a low stretch small diameter line tie the tack of the sail so the edge of the sail is about 3/8” aft of the backside of the mast. Do not tie the tack right to the mast as this will keep the tack from rotating downwind and make the sail full in the bottom.

MAINSHEET The mainsheet is the throttle on a Snipe and must be adjusted regularly to keep the boat going at top speed. The idea is to keep the top batten on the main parallel to the boom at all time and in under 7 knots of wind have the top telltale flying 70% of the time. If the telltale flies constantly the main is too loose. If it stalls all the time it is too tight. Trimming the main is a constant exercise in easing and trimming as the wind increases and eases.

In above 7-10 knots of wind the top telltale will fly all the time and the top batten should be trimmed parallel to the boom.

CUNNINGHAM The main cunningham controls the fore and aft position of the draft in the sail. Keep it loose until you begin to be overpowered and then tighten it to open the leech of the main by moving the draft forward in the sail.

OUTHAUL In all but the very lightest conditions the outhaul should be tight when sailing upwind. Downwind let it off about 2-3” to make the bottom of the main more powerful and to open up the shelf foot in the bottom of the sail.

BOOM VANG The boom vang is used to hold the boom down when the mainsheet is eased and to bend the mast and depower the main in a breeze. We leave the vang completely slack until we are hiking hard. Then we take the slack out of it so that when a puff hits we can ease the boom slightly without losing leech tension. As the breeze picks up more we will pull the mast back to the aft mark at the deck and trim the vang harder. This bends the mast and flattens the main and lets us play the mainsheet in the puffs without losing main leech or jib luff tension.

Downwind, you want to use the vang to keep the top batten parallel to the boom. Ease the vang substantially before reaching the weather mark to make sure you don’t break your mast in a breeze. In some conditions, mostly light air and flat water, the vang can be quite loose with the top batten outside of parallel, which allows you to sail a bit by the lee. In heavy air this makes the boat unstable and can result in the dreaded “death roll”.

TRAVELER In most conditions, even heavy air, the trend lately is to keep the traveler in the middle of the boat. Make sure your mainsheet bridle is set up so the “y” of it goes slightly inside the boom. This will keep the boom centered in light air without putting too much tension on the leech of the main.

As the breeze builds and the boat gets overpowered you may find it helpful to drop traveler until the helm of the boat is neutral and the boat is flat.

Others will find vang sheeting preferable. With vang sheeting you tighten the vang to keep the boon down and the tension on the leech when the mainsheet is eased. Make sure to have the mast back at the aft mark when vang sheeting to keep the jib’s luff tight.

PUSHER/PULLER

The mast pusher/puller controls the bend in the lower part of the mast and has big effect on rig tension. In light air (crew inside the boat) we push the mast forward to the forward deck mark. This bends the mast and opens the leech of the main. It also sags the jib luff giving you more power for light air.

As soon as the crew and skipper are sitting on the windward side of the boat we move the mast back to the neutral mark to power up the sails. As the breeze builds, we will pull the mast back more at the deck to counteract the forces of the vang.

A note on soft vs. stiff masts: As the breeze really builds (15+ knots) softer mast owners will want to keep the mast back at the aft mark. This is because the forces of the vang cause the softer masts to really bend down low and the mast must be held back at the deck to keep the softer masts from over bending.

Stiffer mast owners will want to let the mast go back forward to the neutral mark when the breeze builds. The stiffer masts do not bend as much down low and need to be let back forward as the breeze builds to help depower the main.

SHEET To help judge the trim of the jib your North Snipe jib has a leech telltale sewn on it 1/3 of the way down the leech. The sail also comes with a trim stripe on the clew. To start set the jib lead so that the sheet is lined up with the trim lime on the clew of the jib. From there you will want to fine-tune the lead so that the telltales on the luff of the jib break evenly (watch through spreader window). Move the lead forward if the top luffs first. Move the lead back if the bottom luffs first.

After getting the lead position correct, we want to trim the jib in so that the telltale on the leech is just on the verge of stalling. You will need to adjust the tension on the jib sheet constantly as the wind builds and eases to keep the telltale just on the edge of stalling.

You may also want to make a mark on each side of the splash rail 15” out from the centerline of the boat. The foot of the jib will fall in this vicinity upwind and this mark can be used as a reference point for jib trim.

JIB CLOTH The jib cloth tension should be tightened just enough so that there are always very slight wrinkles in the luff of the sail. In very heavy wind you will want to add tension and make the luff of the jib smooth to open the leech of the sail.

JIB HALYARD Be sure your jib halyard has at least 10-12” of throw in it. You will also want to make sure that the halyard is clearly marked at the up position so you can easily get the halyard set in the correct position at mark roundings.

Dead downwind let the halyard all the way off to project the jib as far to windward as possible. When reaching with the pole up you will find it fast to tighten the jib halyard 1/3 to 1/2 the way to tighten the luff of the sail and make the sail more powerful and easier to steer to.

Thank you for purchasing North Sails. This tuning guide was compiled with the help many National, North American and World Champion’s assistance and represents the latest thinking on sailing a Snipe fast.

Please give any member of the North Snipe team a call if you have any questions. We look forward to helping you get the most from your boat. Good luck!

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Singlehanding a Snipe?

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I bought a 30 year old used Snipe for $850. It seems to be in decent shape overall. I want to know how difficult will it be to singlehand?Can I simply spill wind because of the reduced crew weight to avoid capsizing.( Recommended crew weight for racing this boat is about 320 lbs.) It will be used mostly in Mission Bay ,San Diego, Oceanside(sometimes I will venture out going south hugging the shore) and Newport Bay. I weigh 205 lbs. and am fit. I owned a Macgregor 26m for a year and singlehanded it once or twice so I have some sailing experience. I got the Snipe because I liked the looks of it, wanted a Main and a jib and read online that it tacks well. Also I wanted to reduce my set up time.Another question : How fast will this boat go either in knots or MPH? What should I expect as a cruising speed when singlehanding in Mission Bay 3-10 Knots of wind ? I have knot been able to find out the speeds this boat is capable of anywhere on the internet Thanks  

My first sailboat was a Snipe. I used to single hand it as a kid.  

Sailed the snipe today in Mission Bay solo. Used only the main.Will try jib on next sail.The boat is very fast. Got it to heel and hiked out a bit in puffs. I am nervous about capsizing it if I use jib too(singlehand).Mission bay is shallow and I am not sure I could right it as I have never done this. I would worry the mast would get stuck in the mud. I spilled wind many times today to ease the heeling. I think this is a great boat for me as I am very interested in going fast and having to hike out a bit is exciting to me. The boat seems to tack very well.  

Good news for me Very happy to read this thread as I recently bought a used Snipe (~ 20 y.o) with the intention of sailing single-handed a fair bit of the time. I am just a novice, but am looking forward to getting some experience asap. Guess I'll also be getting wet too! John  

It'll take practice, but you should be able to single hand it. If you haven't gone dinghy sailing yet, you'll earn a whole new respect for those sailors. Things will happen much faster on it than on the macgregor. You'll probably end up in the water a few times so make sure it's warm enough and/or your dressed appropriately.  

Thanks for the info. I wonder if I run the jib and am solo will the risk of capsize increase a lot? It heeled substantially yesterday but that was the best part because the boat was really moving fast and I hiked out a bit. The Snipe appeared to be quite faster than a lot of the other daysailors that were out there. And I was on main alone ! A few of the other daysailors could tell I was novice with this boat and smirked a bit when they saw me struggling and getting used to the boat but I could see they were surprised later when I screamed past them while hiking out on main alone. And my boat did not come with a boom vang. I managed to pull down hard on the section of boom that the vang would attach to and the boat went even faster! This was once on a beam reach and once downwind. When I add in a vang it should be even faster! My only doubt is if I will be able to handle the power of the boat with the jib up also when singlehanding. You have to temporarily let go of the mainsheet to free or secure the jib sheets when coming about. This could lead to a knockdown if I couldn't spill wind from the main fast enough because my only free hand would b on the jib sheet.  

Just take the boat out and capsize it. Learning to right the boat is a necessary dinghy skill. For more info: United States Snipe Sailing - The best in one design dinghy sailing  

Second puddinlegs advice. The only way to gain confidence for when you do get knocked down is to take the boat out and capsize it. Then right it by getting your weight on the center board. Once you get really good at it you can lay the boat over while climbing onto the C/B, then climb back into the cockpit when it rights without actually getting in the water. You will want to sail with the jib and main as using both sails will make your boat go even faster. When you start trying the jib try to get someone to go with you who can handle the jib sheets for you while you handle the main and tiller.  

Thanks to both. Yes, I think what I'll do is manually capsize the boat in about 8 feet of water near the shore. I'll have a 50 foot line from the boat to the shore. If I can't right it using centerboard I'll swim to shore and pull boat to shallow water. Then I'll keep trying until I get it. Then I'll capsize it farther out gradually over time. I'd like to see in shallow water how easily the boat turtles. Can a 200lb. person right the Snipe solo in deep water if it is completely turtled and with windy conditions?  

Just use a constant pressure rather than brute force to right it. Uncleat the sails before you pull it back over. Have a place your daggerboard is tied to on the boat. I've seen some people use jib sheets to pull on when the center board comes back down into the water to continue to right the boat. There's lots of videos on youtube of people righting dinghies. Wear a life jacket. And make sure you've got something you can grab from the water to help you pull yourself back into the boat...hiking strap, a line, whatever. Until you learn how to keep from getting wet in a capsize, a few times of pulling yourself back up will wear you out. As long as you don't putz around, the sails help keep it from turtling. It can eventually turtle but you have a little bit of time. You'll figure out what you have to do to single hand. I've got a yawl rig dinghy. It's almost 19' and I single hand it most of the time. I tie the two jib sheets together to make it easy to grab. And never, ever, ever cleat the main in a good breeze. Like I said before, things happen fast. A gust will put you in the water fast so the time it takes to uncleat could be the difference between a capsize and not.  

jpmuncey: Let me know how your test sails go. I'll send you any tips I learn as well during my singlehanding. We need two heads to optimize our Snipe sailing.  

Yes, but... The wind is definitely a factor in being able to re-right a dinghy like a Snipe. It gets more difficult to do as wind and waves increase. The first thing you should be doing when you start to feel the boat go over is to free the sheets (jib and main) while heading upwind. If you still capsize: - and there is little or no wind just hop on the C/B and your weight should pull the boat up. You may need to tug a little to help get the sails out of the water. - and there is 10 knots or over you may need to alter the position of the hull in relation to the wind as the wind is the force that will ultimately right the boat. Ideally, if your bow is pointed into the wind (mast perpendicular to wind) all you need to do is get some wind under the main and jib when free will help right the boat. If your mast is pointing into the wind and you try to right it the boat can go all the way over on the other side, or worse, start sailing away from you (if you did not release the sheets). It can actually be a fun exercise to do this. Just try not to break anything on the boat or you while practicing. I volunteer at a Sunfish youth sailing program and the kids love this drill on windless days. Make sure you have a bailer secured on board as you will likely take on water. An empty gallon bleach or beverage bottle with a handle with the bottom cut off or a bucket make functional hand bailing devices. A comfortable life vest is not a bad idea either. Most of all have fun.  

Curtisfromcarlsbad said: I bought a 30 year old used Snipe for $850. It seems to be in decent shape overall. I want to know how difficult will it be to singlehand?Can I simply spill wind because of the reduced crew weight to avoid capsizing. Click to expand...

Wow ! Thanks guys. Quick responses. I kinda thought that I shouldn't cleat the main when at speed. It seemed I was constantly cleating/uncleating but I didn't know if it was ok to stay uncleated. That would definately save at least one valuable second of time. And if I went over at least the main would already be uncleated. Is the cleated jib less of a problem than the main in a sudden heavy gust ? Should I install a mast float if I know I will singlehand 75% of the time ? Great responses , I really thank you !  

Ok Thanks- I'm close to mission Bay Yacht Club- I'll try to get some additional advice.  

Something else I thought of-- although I'm not sure about your spars. On Buccaneers, we stick pool noodles in the mast (the upper 1/2 or so is all that's important). You can slice them in half if it makes stuffing easier, but what this does is prevent water from entering the mast, not so much positive buoyancy with the noodle, but by displacing water that would otherwise fill the mast. It literally prevents turtling a Bucc, assuming you have a solid hull-- then you have bigger problems! Ray  

Response to Irunbird Irunbird : Th mast has internal pulleys and the jib and main metal ropes (cables) running through it so I don't think it can be noodled. Thanks for the advice. I'll try this summer to practice some capsizing ( 30 or 40 minutes each time I sail). It is nice to know that even if turtled I've got a chance. The B ucaneers are nice boats !  

If you hook up with the right folks, learn to sail, then race your snipe, you'll learn far more in a couple of years than most will learn in a decade. The snipe class has some really great sailors involved in their group. Take advantage of it. When you move on to keel boats, you'll have a much more developed feel for sailing, sail trim, balance, boat speed, etc...  

Thanks !  

I am a novice sailor, and a frequent reader, but having just capsized my '78 McLaughlin Snipe sailing singlehanded last weekend, I feel I should chime in. I was beating upwind in moderate breeze, feeling very comfortable, fully hiked out, but could not keep the boat level with my 190 lbs. Suddenly I felt I was going over, I cast off the mainsheet but the boom hit the water and did not spill. I tried to climb backwards over the rail, but it was like climbing out of a catapult. From the time of being aware of a problem to me hitting the cold water was about two seconds. In another three seconds the boat was turtled on top of me, with a lot of lines trying to wrap themselves around me. I was aware of the technique of how to right the boat, but I will tell you it is really, really hard for one person, even using the jib sheet it takes several minutes of full exertion standing on an extremely slippery hull. Finally I got the mast up out of the water. The mast came out of the water broadside to the wind, and the wind helped right the boat, but the mainsheet was fouled, the main caught the wind and it just came over on top of me again. Without another person to stabilize the boat , when my Snipe was righted but full of water, it was impossible to climb in from the side without tipping over. Climbing in over the stern is not possible, without a rope step, try it sometime. This process repeated itself three times until the daggerboard dropped out because it was not properly secured. Once that daggerboard is gone, you are done. In the end, my mast was broken as I was being towed away turtled from the rocks where I was drifting. Final bill: new mast and daggerboard- $900 to $1,500. (I bought the boat for $250.) My conclusions for sailing solo in a Snipe: Don't ever go out without a wetsuit, be fully prepared to spend an hour up to your neck in the water you are sailing. Test your "waterproof" VHF before you capsize. Mine leaked and failed. Secure your daggerboard as if it were hung over your head-it might be. Don't sail your Snipe solo if you have not practiced righting it solo. Without a mast float, if you go over 90º, you will not stop until you turtle. Don't hate jetskiers or houseboaters- they came to my aid and spent over an hour helping me.  

Reply to mocphoto Wow ! Thanks for the detailed info. I am planning to turn the Snipe into a trimaran. I have two 10 foot "hydrobike" hulls made out of rotomolded plastic. They are thick strong plastic, and around 10" wide. I have been using them with the Hydrobike for 6 years now to go to see concerts for free at Humphreys on the Bay in San Diego. They are tough material, track nicely and weigh 30lbs. apiece. I plan to use two aluminum or other suitable metal poles perhaps 12-14' in length as akas to connect to the Hydrobike pontoons. This should allow me to fly the jib with less worry and get even more brazen with tightening the main when upwind. I have been afraid to try the boat solo as is with the jib so far and now am even more concerned .I am glad you posted this as it might have saved me from the same fate. We are about the same body weight and the hull and rigging for our two Snipes are probably very similar in weight. So I would have a hell of a time getting righted solo as I am new to dinghy sailing. The Snipe does feel very tippy to me but is exhilarating as well. I will temporarily rig up the pontoons just to see if the boat works well as far as pointing, turning and tracking are concerned then if all is good I will drill some holes in the deck and use a combination of large washers, bolts and large wingnuts to be able to rapidly assemble the trimaran at the launch ramp prior to launch. How does this idea sound ? I am planning a 9 day sailing/road trip down the 1000 miles of the Baja peninsula in late September or early October so I will need to get moving on this project soon. If it works it could really make one stable ,fun and versatile little boat! I have invested $850 in the boat and trailer but have spent an additional $600 rehabbing the 30 year old trailer. It has been welded heavily near the tongue and all other rusted through areas and has had additional metal added to these areas. It has been painted and looks beautiful. I had new wheel bearings put on and two new rims and tires and a new wiring harness. So I am now $1450 deep and wouldn't want to have to get a new mast. I strill have to either buff and polish the entire boat or paint it myself. I concentrated on the worn trailer first as I will be doing a lot of trailering each year. The boat did come with an extra set of nearly new sails (maybe 95% new) so I think I did OK overall. I will not use them for a few years until the first set is worn out  

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Buying a Used Snipe

So you've decided to sail Snipes. You're not quite sure you're ready for a brand new model (what do you do with all those lines?), but you want something that will help you learn the ropes and be competitive with the rest of the fleet. Other fleet members have suggested you look into a good used boat. But what defines a "good used boat?"

Mike McLaughlin, with 30 years experience building Snipes, including the Chubasco and McLaughlin, and now owner of Eclipse Manufacturing, gives his “tire kicking” advice.

Before shopping for a used Snipe, you should first define your intended level of racing (if any), the maximum amount of money you are willing to invest, and your projected annual budget for regattas and sailing expenses.

If you are looking for a daysailing Snipe which will never be raced, look for a self-rescuing fiberglass hull with an aluminum mast, decent sails and simple rigging. Because you needn’t worry about a minimum weight or complicated sail controls, pre-1980 era Snipes are available for very low prices and are great sailing boats.

If you are new to the Snipe Class and want to race competitively, you must have a competitive boat. You don’t have to have a new boat. I recommend buying a good used boat for your first year during which you can hone your skills, crash into marks and docks, give and receive dings, and drill holes and change fittings. You can quickly scale the learning curve and experiment with this boat and become comfortable with sail and mast controls, hiking straps and sheeting systems. As you get used to Snipe racing in general, you can upgrade your boat with new rigging, sails and blades, or buy a new boat knowing exactly what rigging options work best for you. If after this first year you decide Sniping isn’t for you (does this happen?) you can sell he boat and walk away with most of your investment and many new friends.

Let’s look at the important features of a competitive used Snipe. The first thing is hull shape. Chubasco, Eclipse, Jibetech, McLaughlin, Mueller, Persson, and Phoenix are all good shapes and will win races. The Chubasco and older Phoenix and Mueller hulls, while good shapes, may be over weight or “soft”. The advent of vacuum bonded PVC foams [i.e. Klegecel] in 1980 not only made for long lasting boats, but reduced the chance of hulls absorbing water and becoming overweight.

Weigh the prospective boat: if it is more than five pounds overweight with no visible corrector lead, look at other boats. Don’t worry about the moment of inertia; it is not that important in the big picture and most post-1980 boats will be at or near the allowable minimum.

Check the overall structure of the hull and deck. There should be no soft spots on the hull, deck, or floor liner. Most used boats will have had some rigging changes so there may be some small holes or patches. Check to see that all fittings and hiking straps are well fastened and caulked and check the overall condition of all parts.

An absolute must for a boat to be competitive is a bendy mast. Cobra II, Firestix, Sidewinder, Proctor Miracle or Bryant all will work and only the Firestix is out of production. If the boat has a Cobra I, Mueller, Proctor A, E or EX, shop on or plan to spend approximately $880.00 for a mast upgrade. Most used boats will come with at least one set of sails. If the sails are more than two years old, they might be OK for fleet racing, but plan on spending some of your sailing budget soon for a new set. Remcmber that your mast-sail combination is the key to boat speed and should have top priority!

Of lesser importance are the blades – – your daggerboard and rudder. The daggerboard should be straight and smooth and all edges should be well tapered to the l” tolerance. The leading edge may need to be sharpened but this can be done on a milling machine by parts suppliers or you can do it with a big file and much elbow grease. The rudder should be fair and stiff and should fit tightly into the transom gudgeons. The tiller should have no play with the rudder head and the tiller extension should be at least 36 inches long with a flexible rubber connector. Rudder thicknesses and shapes vary, but generally a fat(l 3/8-1 1/2″) rudder is best for big swells and lumps, and thin (1-1 1/2 “) is best for flat water sailing.

If you plan on traveling, check out the trailer carefully. Obviously inspect the welds, tires and support bunks for proper padding and fit, but always inspect the bearings, lug nuts and lights and carry a spare tire. Many regattas are remembered only for trailer problems and not the good sailing or good friends.

Information

In such short space, all Snipe construction and historical evolution can’t be fully covered. If a used Snipe interests you, find the hull number and manufacturer and call for a background check. SCIRA will only provide research for current members of the Snipe Class.  Use the Boat look-up feature on this website: “Membership/Boat Look-up” tab on the home page.  Then type in the hull number. All boats are recorded by hull number.  Any information on hulls have been entered into the online database.  If a Measurement Data Sheet exists on the boat, it will be listed here as well as the original owner and if the boat has been registered with SCIRA. 

If you are looking for a used boat, you can visit the National Websites or visit the FB Page SnipeToday Group – Snipe Buy / Sell / Charter

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snipe centerboard weight

Discussion in ' Sailboats ' started by fercammo , Oct 13, 2011 .

fercammo New Member

is the weight of the centerboard important on a snipe? i built a very light one from polycarbonate dont know if its going to work correctly. does any body know about this topic? fernando  

CutOnce Previous Member

fercammo said: ↑ is the weight of the centerboard important on a snipe? i built a very light one from polycarbonate dont know if its going to work correctly. does any body know about this topic? fernando Click to expand...

gonzo Senior Member

A Snipe is not a Snipe unless it follows class rules. They are very strict and say that anything not expressly permited by the rules is not allowed. Polycarbonate is very flexible and will make a terrible centerboard.  

snipe center boar CutOnce said: ↑ If you use a daggerboard that is not aluminum (new style) or steel (old style) your boat will not be a Snipe. The original design was with a steel plate (which weighed a lot) and it was amended to an aluminum plate (about half the weight). If you ever race your boat, it will not measure in without one of the two accepted metal blades. Serious racers have all abandoned the steel plates for aluminum. I have a steel plate for mine. The class website has very specific rules regarding shape, weight, materials and allowed edge fairing of the plate metal used. If you aren't racing your boat, your board may work fine. The daggerboard trunk is designed for 1/4 inch plate, therefore unless you have changed the trunk, a polycarbonate blade will not be strong enough in sheer strength at the same dimension. It will also be much easier to fracture and shatter on impact. I think my steel plate weighs between 75 to 85 pounds (around 35 kilos). -- CutOnce Click to expand...

water addict Naval Architect

I crewed on a snipe for a few years as a kid, from about 10-14 year old. That blade was a real bummer to pull up, especially in a breeze. I can understand the motivation to make a lighter one. But as others have said, it won't be one-design. A light blade should help performance as long as it is strong enough. I think the tough part would be making a blade that won't break that is not metal. If I remember right, the slot in the hull is really thin, so getting enough bending strength in a non metal blade could be a challenge.  

The slot in a Snipe is 3/8"  

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messabout Senior Member

You can use a 3/8 aluminum plate which will be about 35% of the weight of the steel plate. The boat will sail just as well if you can hold it flat. The steel plate does add a little to the stability of the boat but not so much as to be a deal breaker. The aluminum plate will cost 3 times that of a steel plate and maybe more. Fortuneately it can be cut to shape with an ordinary band saw.  

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