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AZORES SAILING ADVENTURE TRIPS & YACHT CHARTERS

Azores sailing adventure trips, feel the freedom of following the wind.

When we leave the port, you will see the different shades of blue between the ocean and the sky. The stars, the moon and the sun with the sails above you. Nothing but time to dive into the wilderness and relax.

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Our priority is to guide you safely around the islands and experience this adventure in a familiar environment. As we remain professionals, we do everything we can to provide you with an enjoyable experience at sea and on land.

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Explore the islands at your own rhythm.

Our crew will guide you safely to achieve your goal, either you are a family with children, a group of friends looking for fun or a group of professionals looking for wildlife photography, marine conservation or scientific projects.

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Multi-cultural sailing adventure.

When you join a shared trip, you are ready to meet other like-minded travelers who enjoy sailing together, adventure , sensitivity to wildlife and respect for nature. Join them alone or with friends.

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Azores sustainable tourism destination.

Our trips are filled with positive energy and a pleasant atmosphere. In a unique harmony with nature, this is an experience that refreshes your soul and “recharges your batteries”. A balance between full adrenaline and pure relaxation surrounded by the ocean , where dolphins, whales, turtles, mantas, sharks and other species live together in a rich ecosystem.

Sail with us in the Azores or Atlantic Tour

Cruises, long passages & atlantic crossing.

Our base is located in the Azores where we spend every summer season. In November 2022 we will leave for an Atlantic Tour and offer multiple-day sailing trips in Madeira, the Canary Islands, Cabo Verde, the Caribbean and Bermuda. You will also have the opportunity to sail with us during the long passages between these destinations.

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You can read more reviews at G oogle Business , Facebook or  T rip Advisor to get to know what our wonderful passengers have shared about their experiences during our trips.

Pure Sail - Yacht Charter Azores

Pure Sail - Yacht Charter Azores , is a charter company of sailing vessels with the possibility to charter one of our vessels with or without skipper . Based in the Eastern group and with a fleet of three sailing boats you can rent our boats for short or long trips .

Sailing charters from one week to 24 hours with or without skipper.

“Full day” or “half day” trips with skipper.

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Dufour 382 grand large (2014).

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Bavaria Cruiser 46 (2016)

Dufour 460 grand large (2016).

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Sailing the Azores: A destination in their own right

• June 16, 2021

The Azores are more than just a mid-ocean respite spot, they’re an appealing cruising destination in their own right. Kila Zamana explains all you need to know about sailing the Azores

“Run, young lady! You shouldn’t be there!” a voice screamed behind me. I didn’t understand; I had no idea why the crowd had gathered in one spot in between jagged streets at the hour of twilight. Suddenly two legions ran in opposite directions, as if escaping from an explosion. I instinctively followed. It was then that I spotted a giant black bull on a loose rope.

I climbed out of harm’s way onto a wall, feeling frankly more intimidated by the concerned looks of the men running with the bull than the bull itself, so distressed were they at seeing a woman tossed into the middle of the action.

This was ‘Tourada a Corda’, a tradition exclusive to the Azores , and particularly practised on Terceira. Bulls are set running down the street, held on a rope by two groups of five strong men each.

It’s an ancient tradition that dates back to the Spanish invasion, when the people of Angra do Heroismo scared the invaders away by setting angry bulls upon them. It’s not a spectacle widely shared with tourists, as the place and time for each bull run is passed by word of mouth between locals.

Bull running on the island of Terceira. Photo: Kila Zamana

Most chose to stay safely behind improvised barricades watching the event with beer and bifana (Portuguese pork sandwiches).

There is one universal rule: the bull cannot be physically harmed (and nor should the men who run with it). Unlike Spanish bullfights, the bull is not killed after the event: rather, it is kept in the best possible physical shape and well rested for future runs.

The Tourada a Corda is an adrenaline-driven sport to test behavioural skills. Whether you consider it humane or not, it is one of the most ancient traditions of this historic island group and was a real introduction to the true Azores.

Sailing the Azores – Island exploration

Even as my partner, Paul, and I made safe landfall at Ponta Delgada on São Miguel Island last summer, after logging some 1,100 miles from southern Portugal – mostly against westerly winds – we knew we wouldn’t be staying there long.

We wanted to explore further into the nine islands that make up the archipelago. Around 90% of visitors to the Azores stop at the main island of São Miguel, while Horta is more convenient for sailors seeking rest en route from the Caribbean or US. Much of the island group is largely unspoilt.

Bluewater Atlantic cruising between the islands of the Azores. Photo: Kila Zamana

Paul had crossed the Atlantic many times before I met him, both the north and south, including co-skippering expedition yachts in Antarctica and taking part in three ARC rallies .

I spent years working with sled dogs in the Arctic wilderness and never imagined I’d become a sailor until I found myself sailing with Paul on his 15m expedition sloop Malaika from Gdansk, in the Baltic Sea , to Cowes on the Isle of Wight.

I fell in love with offshore sailing and we’ve since spent three summers cruising the Azores, and sailed the tricky Atlantic waters between the islands and Europe six times.

Article continues below…

Azores charms

No wonder generations of tired and thirsty sailors have fallen in love with the Azores

Solo sailor Paul Heiney describes battling gale force winds off the Azores

I was 150 miles south-west of the Azores, heading for home, and it was blowing up rough from ahead. I…

Arriving at the islands by sea is like voyaging into Middle Earth. After a long Atlantic passage, which can be rather monotonous, you make landfall on islands that are pulsating with vibrant life. Theirs is a completely different form of beauty, the woods seem full of mysteries, myths and folklore: it’s often believed the islands are the peaks of the mountains of a submerged Atlantis.

Arriving at the islands is like voyaging to Middle Earth. Photo: Kila Zamana

Cruising between the islands is a rewarding experience. Distances are small, the scenery is varied and each island has its own distinct personality. The pilot book Atlantic Islands by Anne Hammick was our best friend, along with routing and meteo application Squid .

Sailing between the islands’ high cliffs and mountains brings very unstable and unpredictable winds, together with fogs, showers and local currents. There are few reliable spots to drop anchor, and the area’s unpredictable weather means you cannot leave a boat at anchor unattended for longer stays. Marinas are, however, very friendly and well organised.

After leaving the capital on São Miguel we sailed the 100 miles north-west to the island of Terceira, home of the bull run. Leaving Malaika in Marina Angra do Heroismo we headed inland to Algar do Carvão, one of only two volcanoes on earth that can be explored inside by foot. This one is thick with lush vegetation and filled with the background sounds of dripping water as rain seeps down the ancient lava tube.

Acidic volcanic soil in the Azores colours wild hydrangeas blue: this is the dramatic landscape on São Jorge. Photo: Kila Zamana

The verdant hues all across the Azores are an intense, oversaturated green. However, the ocean is a deep slate blue by daylight, the shoreline marked by dark volcanic sands.

Those who seek a paradise of pristine beaches under sunny skies will be disappointed. There can be endless days of foggy drizzle – not even rain, but a seeping damp that gets in everywhere. The weather is changeable but, where there’s rain and sun simultaneously, there are many rainbows.

Terceira has two marinas, though it’s often wiser to pick the southern Angra do Heroismo over beautiful Praia da Vittoria half way up the eastern coast. Strong and persistent easterlies have been common over the past few summers, leaving Praia exposed to swell and wind.

Sailing towards Terceira from Ponta Delgada, we were pushed off course by an incredibly strong north-westerly current.

Angra is a beautiful UNESCO-recognised town, but it’s not a perfect marina in anything except winds from the north quarter, as it is quite a tight entrance and approaching can be difficult due to the strong currents and swell inside the harbour.

Coping with swell

Swell is a significant factor of cruising the Azores. Because of their position in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, where an ocean floor rises almost vertically from thousands of metres deep into high cliffs, waves are scattered from all directions after almost any wind.

Kila Zamana and Paul Motawa sailed Malaika from southern Portugal to the Azores last summer. Photo: Kila Zamana

This confused sea often lasts for several days, even in fair weather, after summer lows have passed north of the islands.

From Terceira we sailed to São Jorge, about 74 miles. I got up to take the watch at 0200 as we crossed the narrow 10-mile wide channel between the islands of Pico and São Jorge. I was greeted on deck by an incredible view of the Milky Way. Then, as soon as the stars began fading with the dawn, I heard the eerie squawking of thousands of Cory’s Shearwaters soaring over the sea’s surface under the shadow of Pico mountain.

A pack of dolphins appeared, then two fishing boats floated into view like ghosts out of nowhere, while the brightening dawn began transforming the colours of São Jorge from sinister blues to vibrant pinks and greens as the fields high atop the cliffs slowly revealed themselves.

Shortly after Paul took over the watch we heard the characteristic ‘big splash’ and I jumped out on deck with a camera: a sperm whale. Despite whale symbolism all over these islands, it isn’t common to spot whales in the Azores, especially by yacht. We’ve seen them only once during our three years of cruising here.

After the magical theatre of dawn, we approached Velas, on the southern coast of São Jorge, by daylight. Malaika was warmly welcomed by Jose, the harbour master in Velas’s small marina.

Despite its small size, Velas is quite easy to navigate, never getting busy and, in our experience, probably the best protected against swell. It’s inside the ‘faja’, a term for ravines that’s unique to São Jorge. The water here is crystal blue and there are more seabirds on the jetties than people, including plenty of fearless geese that march up and down the pontoons.

Malaika moored at Horta’s famous quay painted with emblems and messages by visiting yacht crew. Photo: Kila Zamana

Jose gave us helpful tips on travelling around the serpent shaped island, which is just 33 miles long. You don’t come here for churches or architecture; this island has little to offer except time travel to the Jurassic era, with its oversized ferns and hobbit-like villages.

Fearless animals are more common encounters than people, so driving requires caution: the animals don’t run, but rather will look at you with confusion.

After hiking through the bird sanctuary of Sete Fontes, we realised we were really, really hungry. Nothing was open so late in the afternoon, so we drove in hunger and irritation until Paul spotted an old bar by the roadside, built into the edge of a rustic family house near the cliff.

As we went in I was imagining terrible fast food, and the owner, Jorge, apologised, saying: “We have only hamburgers, sir. Oh and don’t mind the loud farmers hanging out there.”

I didn’t want to stay but fortunately Paul insisted. I’d never have imagined this place would become one of our favourites in the entire Azores. Heck, it’s even worth crossing the ocean just to stop at Jorge’s bar, with its view of two islands.

First he brought a snack of ‘fava’ (marinated beans), locally made cheeses, sausages, sauces and bread. And finally burgers from his own pastures, the best I’ve ever tasted. Now we always take our crews to that bar to feel the authentic atmosphere of the Azores. Jorge knows when we’re coming, he sees our yellow hull from his window as we cross the channel between São Jorge and Pico, and always texts us: “I see you guys. Feel welcome to stop, I’ll prepare something special for the crew.”

Problematic pico

We continued on from Velas to Horta on Faial, a short and enjoyable 20-mile passage with Faial’s many iconic whaleboats, which are now used for races, dotting the water ahead.

Approaching Faial you have to be cautious of eddies, waves come from all directions and the winds are constantly shifting in the shadow of Pico Mountain.

Angra Marina on Terceira. Photo: Kila Zamana

It is possible to stop on the south of Pico Island, but the coastline can make for unpleasant sailing with messy seas. The entrance to the marina in Lajes do Pico also requires care, as it is a narrow channel surrounded by rocky pinnacles and often exposed to strong current and swell.

The marina has only four berths that can accommodate 45ft yachts (call ahead to check for space). Though as cruisers we love to sail everywhere, it’s no sin to take the 30-minute ferry from Faial to Pico to visit the mountainous island.

As we approached the Horta entrance the whaleboat crews greeted us with smiles. They train every weekday afternoon to race each Saturday. Horta is always an interesting melting pot of transatlantic sailors. We were allocated a berth next to the famous Pen Duick VI , which Marie Tabarly and her crew are taking on a tour around the world and filming their ‘Elemen’terre’ project.

Together with Tabarly’s crew we greeted French ocean racer Mayeul Rifflet into harbour, as he brought his small trimaran in right before a bad storm after a single-handed Atlantic delivery from the Caribbean. Then we met Sven Yrvind, the 81-year-old sailor who made a landfall after 78 days of single-handed sailing his minuscule self-built boat. On other years we’ve bumped into the Delos crew: it’s a port full of original personalities.

Unpredictable Flores

The westernmost islands group, Flores and Corvo, are the most challenging. These islands are most exposed to passing storms, frequently enduring the worst winds and swell. The tiny harbour of Lajes das Flores is unprotected to easterly or south-easterly winds; they take no reservations, you can barely make contact with the port and the anchorage is known to be very rolly.

Theoretically, sailing to Lajes das Flores from Horta will usually involve banging against prevailing westerlies, but the Azores weather is highly unpredictable and we’ve also experienced long periods of strong easterlies, mixed with every other wind direction.

On our last attempt to reach Flores in 2019 there were near-constant easterlies, and after several dozen attempts at getting in touch with Lajes harbour we eventually found out that it was completely shut down due to terrible 3m easterly swells. Locals say the best time to try for Flores is in June.

The welcoming Peter Café Sport in Horta. Photo: Kila Zamana

That autumn, we made a quick change of plans and dropped our crew off in Ponta Delgada after two days tacking against easterlies. By then it was late September, the final call for a safe passage back to the European mainland.

We were nervous, and keeping a very keen eye on the forecasts; there was gale after storm, storm after gale. One night during an electrical storm lightning struck a boat two pontoons along from us, thankfully only partially damaging our wind instruments. It was starting to feel like the Azores didn’t want us to leave!

Eventually we found a safe window for at least six days and set off. As with every time we leave the Azores, I watched the islands fading into the clouds like a mirage. I always feel emotional watching it, which is a sign that it’s a place worth another visit.

In the end, we had an ideal beam reach in 20-25 knots, with a fair sea state for nearly the entire passage, and after eight days made safe landfall in Portimão.

During our passage Hurricane Lorenzo had passed through Azores with 15m waves ravaging the shores. The port of Flores was completely devastated. Azoreans are used to storms but this one was too much.

We weren’t destined for Flores that year but, as our friend Jose in Velas wisely once said, it is sometimes best to not visit all the places around the world, but to leave unexplored places in our imagination. It gives us a reason to dream. And we will be back.

If you enjoyed this….

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Pure Sail - Yacht Charter Azores - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024)

Flores & Corvo Sailing Adventure Trips

Welcome to Floresail, we organize sailing trips around the Western Group of the Azores! We offer amazing tours that allow you to explore the beauty of the islands and experience nature in a unique way. Sailboat tours that will give you access to beautiful bays, the opportunity to explore marine life and the chance to help the environment. Our tours are designed to provide you with an unforgettable experience and plenty of time to enjoy the sights and sounds of the islands. You will be able to appreciate a variety of marine life. With our tours, you will be able to experience the beauty of the islands in a way that you simply cannot on land. We also have an amazing promotion for those who want to help the environment. join us for a sailboat tour of the Western Group of the Azores. Join us for a sailing tour let us give you an experience you won't regret around the Western Group of the Azores!

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Set sail to your own rhythm with our tailored experiences. Whether you seek a romantic getaway, a family adventure, or a group excursion, we create personalized sailing experiences that cater to your unique preferences and ensure an unforgettable journey. Experience peace of mind with a licensed skipper and dedicated professional crewmate by your side. Our knowledgeable team ensures smooth sailing, expert navigation, and personalized attention throughout your voyage. If you participate in a 1-2 hour coastal cleanup of plastic, you’ll be eligible for a discount on your tour. Our local expertise unlocks a world of natural wonders and cultural treasures, ensuring an unforgettable exploration of this stunning archipelago

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• - Sail around the island
• - Trips to Corvo island
• - Anchorage in beautiful bays
• - Coastal approach with dinghy
• - Day and overnight sailing trips
• - Food and drinks available on board
• - Friendly and relaxing environment
• - Many adaptable options
• - Safety equipment provided
• - Snorkeling
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Sailing in the Azores: Things You Should Know

The first thing to know about sailing in the Azores, is that the Azores are a great sailing destination!

I didn’t expect that to be honest.

As for many other sailors, the Azores were only a stop on our sail from the Caribbean to Europe.

We were planning to stay maybe 2 weeks to rest and fix whatever would break while crossing the Atlantic, and then move on to where we really wanted to go: the Mediterranean.

But, we ended up sailing in the Azores much longer than that and loved every minute of it.

Its stunning volcanic islands, vibrantly green hills, hot springs, waterfalls, whale watching, friendly people, and delicious local cheese and wine only sum up part of what these islands have to offer.

And that’s why in this article I want to share with you both what makes the Azores a great sailing destination, and practical tips for sailing here.

Things to Know About Sailing in the Azores

1. the islands.

There are 9 islands in the Azores, all with their unique charm.

Horta, the main town in Faial, is the go-to destination for sailors coming from the Caribbean or the US.

Ponta Delgada, the capital of the Azores, on the island of Sao Miguel, is the go-to destination for sailors coming from Europe.

The other Azorean islands receive fewer sailors and are beautiful, more unspoiled options to visit.

These unique islands are known as one of the best sailing destinations in Portugal, and I couldn’t agree more!

2. Clearing In & Out

When sailing in the Azores you have to clear in and out at every island.

That may sound annoying, but thankfully the process is quick and the people are generally very friendly.

After you’ve cleared in on the first island you’re in their database which speeds up clearing in and out in subsequent islands even more.

You don’t need a sailing permit in the Azores and there are no costs associated with clearing in or out.

There is a marina on every island but Corvo. And there is one central website where you can find information about each marina: Portosdosacores.pt

Marinas are inexpensive, compared to most of Europe, the Caribbean and the US.

The marinas differ a lot in size. Ponta Delgada is the largest marina and will generally have space available.

The marina in Flores is so small that it’s recommended not to rely on them ever having space.

You can’t normally make reservations in advance which makes it a little tricky, as anchoring isn’t always a great option.

In my opinion, it’s worth contacting the marina you want to go to shortly before arriving, just to check if they have space.

If you’re sailing in the Azores in high season on a catamaran it can be difficult to get a spot in most marinas. Monohulls are generally fine, but you might have to tie up to a wall or raft up.

4. Anchoring

There aren’t a lot of good anchorages in the Azores.

Plus, the unpredictable weather in the Azores means you cannot leave a boat at anchor unattended for long and you might have to move as the weather changes.

The anchorage in Horta is a bit of an exception here. It’s actually very well protected.

Also, anchoring isn’t free everywhere in the Azores.

We paid 50% of the marina rate to anchor in Horta and in Velas (on the island of Sao Jorge).

5. Tides, Currents & Sailing Conditions

If you’re coming from the Caribbean, where there are no tides, then keep in mind that in the Azores there are.

But if you sailed to the Azores from Portugal you’ve most likely experienced higher tides there than you will here.

You’ll notice some current while sailing in the Azores, but it’s generally well below 1 knot.

Due to the position and geography of the Azores ground swells are also common in the Azores.

Sailing along the islands’ cliffs and mountains brings unstable and unpredictable winds, together with fogs, showers, and changing currents.

Flores and Corvo, the westernmost islands, are the most challenging to sail. They are the most exposed to passing storms, often enduring the worst winds and swell.

6. The Weather

If you are looking for sunny, cloudless weather to spend your days on beautiful sandy beaches, the Azores might not be for you.

The main thing you need to know about the weather in the Azores is that it’s unpredictable.

A day might start windy and rainy, then turn hot and sunny, to cool down again in the evening.

You can encounter several days of gray skies while sailing here. And fog and drizzly rain are common.

But, if, like us, you’ve sailed here from the Caribbean, this might be a welcome change.

I loved the cooler temperatures. The weather in summer is generally very pleasant with warm days and cooler nights.

Although the islands are located at similar latitudes as the Mediterranean, the temperatures here are much milder. Temperatures in summer rarely go above 30ºC / 86ºF and in winter it rarely drops below 7ºC / 45ºF.

7. The People

The locals are friendly and generally speak English well.

This makes it easy to get to know locals and has definitely made our time sailing in the Azores a lot more enjoyable!

Marina staff tends to be very helpful and a great starting point to get information about what to see and do on each island.

Learning a few words of Portuguese is of course helpful and very much appreciated by the locals.

The Azores are a very safe destination to visit, with very low crime rates . You can safely walk around on any island day and night.

8. Chandleries & Ordering Online

There are small chandleries on several islands, with the best ones in Ponta Delgada on Sao Miguel island.

But, you’re still on small islands so there is a good chance you won’t be able to find everything you need.

Thankfully, ordering things om Amazon.es and having them delivered in the Azores works well. There is no Portuguese version of Amazon, which is why they use the Spanish one.

We’ve ordered several boat parts on Amazon while we were in Ponta Delgada and had no issues. There are no extra delivery costs for shipping to the Azores versus shipping to mainland Portugal.

Unfortunately, some items won’t ship to the Azores, which you’ll see as soon as you try to place your order with an address in the Azores.

9. The Costs of Sailing in the Azores

The Azores are surprisingly inexpensive.

Being relatively remote islands, I expected sailing in the Azores to be relatively expensive. At least significantly more expensive than mainland Portugal.

But if anything, the Azores are cheaper than many parts of Portugal.

Anything from groceries to eating out, marinas and many boat services you’ll find are less expensive than in large parts of Europe and definitely than in most of the Caribbean.

10. The Best Time to Sail in the Azores

Summer is the best time to sail in the Azores.

Or, more precisely, between the end of April and early October, when the waters are calmer and the chance of sea fog is lower.

The Azores is a very popular sailing destination in summer, but doesn’t see many international sailors the rest of the year.

If you want to sail back to Europe from the Azores, it’s best to leave before the end of September, before the weather deteriorates.

11. Cruising Guide for the Azores

We use Navionics for navigation, and in the Azores that’s generally quite accurate.

But, for additional information, I like to get a cruising guide for every destination I sail to.

For the Azores, Imray Atlantic Islands by Anne Hammick is the best cruising Guide.

Some of the Best Things to Do in the Azores

Apart from sailing from island to island, taking in the sights, and enjoying local food in small restaurants with friendly locals, these are some great things to do in the Azores:

• Climb Pico, the highest mountain in Portugal.
• Go on a whale watching tour from Horta or from Ponta Delgada . Seeing whales up close while sailing around the Azores is less common, which is why these tours are well worth it, even though you’re on a boat yourself!
• Go on a full-day tour of Sao Miguel .
• If you like to get the adrenaline going, go canyoning in Sao Miguel .
• A half-day island tour with cheese tasting in Terceira .

Chartering a Boat to Sail in the Azores

Unlike popular sailing destinations such as Greece in the Mediterranean or the BVI in the Caribbean, you don’t find that many chartered boats in the Azores.

But, that doesn’t mean there aren’t some great options and I think the Azores is a great place to charter a boat. You can explore several islands, even if you’d only charter a boat for a few days.

Sailo has a good selection of privately owned sailboats for rent. It’s a great option both for captained and bareboat charters, and generally cheaper than local charter companies.

Sailing in the Azores – Conclusion

As most sailors I’ve met agree, sailing in the Azores is great!

The islands are beautiful and the people are extremely friendly. Plus, the islands are located relatively close together, making sailing between islands not too time-consuming.

If you love a laid-back atmosphere, great hiking, whale watching, and delicious local cheese and wine, you’ll love the Azores!

Plus, assuming you’ll be sailing in the Azores around the summer months, the more moderate weather here offers a nice change from the Caribbean and Southern European heat.

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‘A strangely singular freedom’: losing and finding myself at sea

After a break-up, disillusioned with work and lonely in London, the writer Susan Smillie found a companion in her small boat, Isean, and together they set off for an adventure of a lifetime

W hat happened? How did I get here, to this wild place? I found myself completely alone and all at sea. It was kind of an accident, somewhat spontaneous. And entirely unavoidable. I jumped off the edge of Britain. Off to follow the birds south. And here I am. Thousands of miles from home. It was an unexpected departure but it had been coming for a while. I’d been caught up in the city for too long. A decade of living and working in London. I’d loved it, my place there, my job – a features editor for the Guardian – friends nearby. It was a life that really suited me… until it no longer did. It wasn’t London that changed, it was me: like trying to squeeze into the wrong-sized shoes – you love them so much, but they don’t fit.

It wasn’t just the city that didn’t fit. My boyfriend and I broke up. After decades of being one half of a couple, at 40, I was suddenly single. Still, I thought, it would be good for me to stand on my own two feet. So I was surprised to find I was lonely. I tried dating apps and quickly despaired of the tick lists and bios, the swiping and empty message exchanges. At best it was a time-consuming chore. Worse than work. Next came a dysfunctional fling that was exciting for about two minutes then miserable for aeons, eroding my self-esteem in the process. That was the loneliest time of all. I tried to fill evenings and weekends, couldn’t bear to be alone without plans. But I went too far, partied too hard, failed to look after myself and unravelled emotionally. I’d wake up feeling anxious or tearful without explanation, there was a prolonged period of sorrow, overwhelming feelings of emptiness. There were many factors at play but I was old enough to recognise my part in this spiral. What do they say about being lonely? Find a hobby. I turned my eyes to the sea; to where my little boat, Isean, was waiting.

We had found her a few years before, my ex and I: a Nicholson 26. A classic sailing yacht, all elegant lines, teased out by boat builders in the 60s. She’s what you’re likely picturing – one mast, two sails. She, like me, was approaching 40. An abandoned shell, her sails stolen, paint flaking. She, too, was empty inside. No matter. Her beauty shone through. She cost a few thousand pounds, and it took thousands more to fit her out. But you don’t grudge spending on family, do you? And now she is kin. After all the work, she was ready to sail. One problem. I wasn’t. It’s not that I couldn’t sail. I was an amateur with a basic qualification, comfortable being crew. But good God, I wasn’t ready to be in charge.

There was a seemingly endless and varied list of things I didn’t know, all crucial for safety. The sails and rigging, lines and knots. Batteries, electrics, gas, solar, plumbing. Tides! The Beaufort scale! I was often apologising to Isean as she got us out of trouble. When a strong gust powered up the sails I was caught between elation and terror. “Oh God, the boat is really tipping!” I imagined her reply. Yes I am meant to heel! How white horses at sea unnerved me. I’d need to get better at gauging how much wind I could handle. Not much, she would observe. How much could Isean handle? Whatever you throw at me. OK, then I’ll catch up.

This seaworthy boat wanted real sailing and so did I. “If you can sail in the Solent,” people said, “you can sail anywhere.” By the summer of 2014, with help, we were there. One of the busiest sailing grounds in the world; good for learning. I grew reasonably competent – avoided crashing into ships or grounding on sandbanks. What gave me confidence was Isean. People would wander over smiling as they took in her lines. “A Nicholson!” they’d exclaim. “She’ll look after you.” I saw it too, in how she cut effortlessly through heavy waves. How this little boat loved big seas. She was so forgiving of all my mistakes. I learned how to handle the helm and trim the sails. The better I got, the better she responded, doing what I expected, going where I hoped. And the better she liked me, the more I liked myself.

Together, we sailed the summer away, meandering and dreaming, heading ever further into the beautiful west. Dorset’s Jurassic skies; the rugged Cornish coast, big blue Atlantic seas crashing white beaches. Off the coast of Devon, friends joined for a sunset sail, and so did a superpod of dolphins. Perhaps thousands, clicking and whistling, breaching and bow riding, beneath the boat, in the air, near and far. I watched, heart swelling, tears falling, as they raced to deep waters in the sinking sun. I was still making my living in the city but the real living – the kind that makes you want to jump out of bed and breathe it all in – was time off with Isean. When I returned to London, the happy part of me was still with her. Just at this point, my employers made a company-wide offer of voluntary redundancy. The realisation hit me at once. This city, this career, this life, no longer held me. I wanted to be with Isean. To be at sea. It was an easy decision to leave my job. Scary, but easy. By late August 2017, Isean and I were perched in Penzance. We’d made it to the very edge of the country. I was planning to round Land’s End, coast hop the UK. But Isean had other ideas. She pointed her bow towards France. Over a couple of stormy weeks, the idea of a bigger journey – a different destiny – formed, quietly at first, then became so irresistible I had no choice but to act. One night at summer’s close, and quite to my own surprise, we sailed away from British shores. We followed the kindly sea, a path lit silver by a waxing crescent moon. Flew south like the migrating swifts. She got her way, and it became my way.

It was easier than I imagined, leaving everything and everyone I knew. It was also a massive leap. Until my 40s I had barely travelled alone. I’d been scared of being lonely, of being unable to communicate or navigate a foreign country. Now I was about to navigate – really navigate – my own way to France, maybe Spain, perhaps even Portugal. I had so recently been frightened to take charge of this little boat. But how adaptable we humans are. It’s about taking the first step, then you find your way. Once I started, my ability – and my trust in it – grew. I found a resourcefulness and resilience I didn’t know I had. If I stopped telling myself I couldn’t do something, I realised, then I could. The decision to go to sea, to choose this life alone, was a measure of how much I’d learned, how much happier I was with my own company. It was a massive vote of confidence in myself.

Just over a day after setting off from Land’s End, there I was, sitting under the sun in the port of Aber Wrac’h, revelling in the matchless pleasure of having travelled to another country under my own steam. I hadn’t gone to an airport, booked a train or exchanged money. I’d simply untied Isean’s lines and set off into the sunset. What a strangely singular freedom. After that, I felt unstoppable. We flew through Brittany’s rites of passage, down the fast-flowing Chenal du Four to Brest, past the rock-encumbered tidal gate that is the Raz de Sein. We crossed the vast Bay of Biscay and made careful progress down Spain’s Costa del Morte – the coast of death – into Portugal. An unexpected winter in the Algarve. In spring, hardly believing it myself, we entered the Mediterranean, sailed along the coast of Africa. Africa!

Friends joined along the way. Some were easier to accommodate than others. One challenge was in collecting them. Most people need certainty before they book a flight and it was hard to predict where I’d be, drifting from country to country. Suzie and Karin visited in Spain, Suzie folding herself origami-style into the damp aft quarter berth (with a lubricating whisky). Karin, meanwhile, turned up with a hairdryer! I had just enough solar power to charge my phone (for communication, navigation and weather), anchor light (for safety) and the luxury of a small speaker (music and podcasts). “What’s all this?” I demanded as she emptied her bag of stuff. “Life!” she replied. Life like I used to know, perhaps, but on an 8m boat there was barely room for the three of us. I had roughly the space of a classic VW campervan. It was camping, really. I didn’t have much comfort. No shower, no fridge. A two-burner stove, sink and toilet. A laptop for watching stuff online, but, instead, I’d fall asleep, book discarded. My attention was held by dreamy panoramas shifting and drifting past my window – ivory beaches, cliffs and castles. A whale spouting in the distance. Insanely clear aquamarine around me.

But even in the most idyllic settings, there were bouts of boredom, periods of loneliness. It sometimes happened if I stopped. I might stare at families splashing in holiday mode and question my purpose. We don’t really want to be on holiday all the time – we’re happier being productive. A day cleaning my engine (with a toothbrush!) or freelance writing restored the balance. I also found balance between company and time alone in quiet bays with the shy creatures that avoid humans in noisy numbers. Mostly, it was just Isean and me, the two of us weathering the extreme conditions that come with life in the wilderness. I liked it that way. Just myself to keep safe from numerous storms and occasional hurricanes.

I’m not usually one of life’s planners. At sea, I changed fast. You’re at the mercy of weather conditions and must be organised. I’d always be thinking ahead, checking forecasts, harbour approaches, predicting tides, observing the waxing and waning of the moon. Extreme storms are an ever-present danger nowadays and they do focus the mind. In 2019, about halfway down Portugal’s coast, we sought shelter from the first category-three hurricane to barrel this side of the Atlantic. Ophelia’s strength reduced over the Azores, but it was wild enough, a sleepless night swerving around in high winds. Soon after, in the Algarve, we clung anxiously to a pier as two tornadoes spun perilously close (thankfully they didn’t veer in our direction). In 2020, in Greece, we rushed from the Ionian islands ahead of cyclone Ianos’s arrival, found safety in Preveza, just outside its orbit. Scores of sunken sailing boats around those islands were less fortunate.

Stressful things, storms. It’s horrible awaiting their arrival: the electricity in the air, the tension, the worry. But humans are adapted for these threats – the fight-or-flight response kicks in. You know what to do in a storm. Seek shelter, batten the hatches, set the anchor… and hope! The stress is alleviated by action. Less harmful, surely, than the pervading anxiety brought by the pressures of modern life – workplace worries that linger in the night. Adrenaline rushing in a meeting where someone belittles you isn’t helpful, is it? But if you must haul 50m of chain to avoid dragging offshore in a gale, it’s quite useful. As scary as they were, I was really living during these storms. Then the weather passes: the calm after the storm. I loved days drifting in a meditative state, practising my own form of mindfulness, staring at the ocean. I made mistakes – so many. It’s great knowing theory but nothing reinforces a lesson like your own error creating a terrifying experience.

Take one sudden squall near Malaga. I sailed on instead of seeking shelter. It overpowered us. In no time Isean was swerving wildly out of control and I was merely clinging on – and screaming. I still shudder at the memory of closely cutting behind a chain ferry, steel cables inches from tearing open our hull. It’s easy to get complacent when you spend every waking and sleeping moment at sea, and that’s when things get dangerous. Sometimes I wonder that I made it all the way to Greece – to Odysseus’s sailing ground, no less – without disaster. But no. Of course I made it. Isean got me here, kept me safe. My trusty little boat. My sanctuary in every storm, my companion in adventure.

I still see our journey, like a film in my mind’s eye, Isean always in the frame. Fairytale pretty, here she is, anchored by snowcapped mountains and castles in Spain. Cruising with big wave surfers in Portugal. Sailing over a lost city in Italy, Roman ruins under the waves. Stromboli! Saffron flames licking an inky sky. Isean and I, infinitesimally small at the foot of the mighty volcano. A silent agreement, made together, to avoid sailing into lava. And here we are. In the land of the gods, on electric-blue seas. Beautiful Greece. I’ve never felt so lucky. I have to keep reminding myself that this is my life now. There will be no phone call to drag me back to an office, no emails or work meetings to take me away from this, the happiest “place” I’ve ever found. I’m no longer thousands of miles from home. My idea of home has changed. Home is not a place, it is a feeling. Wherever Isean is; that is home. My home is with her.

The Half Bird (Penguin Michael Joseph, £16.99) by Susan Smillie is out on 21 March. Preorder it for £14.95 at guardianbookshop.com

An extract from The Half Bird

Ahead, dark cumulonimbus clouds were piling up over the Montes de Málaga, Andalucía’s stunning mountain range. I stared in awe, appreciating the unreal light as tall black clouds bowled dramatically towards us. The first thing I thought to do was take a picture. The second thought, following closely behind – reef! I should reduce my sails. Too late. The storm hit us, a squall as sudden as it was furious.

The noise! Gusts screeched like the getaway car on a bank heist. Thunder rumbled and lightning cracked. The sea was black, reflecting an incandescent sky, and torrential rain swept sideways across the surface of the water. I could no longer see the coast; the whole scene looked and sounded disconcertingly like mid-ocean. You don’t have a lot of time to think in this situation, but you have plenty of time to feel. One feeling dominated. Terror.

Wind powered up the sails and we sped off. The dinghy, trailing behind, flipped and its floor flew into the distance. I was in complete panic and Isean seemed equally frightened, like a wild thing, out of control and swerving crazily. We were tipped on our side, the left gunwale underwater, waves washing over the side. In no time, without a life jacket or safety harness, I was merely clinging on.

When things go badly wrong on a boat, you want to hide but you have to act. No one else can help you. You overcome fear because the alternative is worse, and you find a physical strength fuelled by adrenaline and desperation. Isean powered up to the wind as I fought to steer off and furl in her foresail, inch by inch, desperate to take the power out. But the line jammed. I was aghast. Now I had to get to the bow. Our world was upside down, the starboard deck high in the air. I crawled along it, whipped painfully by a merciless wind that lashed me with stinging wet ropes. It was chaos, sails flapping, ropes flying. Inside, I would discover, was worse: a formless pile of food and oil, equipment and clothes, solids and liquids intermingled, all atoms fighting for space. Eventually, arms aching, hands throbbing in pain, I wrestled both sails away, felt the boat even out and we turned downwind. The gusts screeched from behind, still heart-poundingly strong, but I was back in control. I got the engine on and motored out to sea for space. There was plenty. We were totally alone. No one else was stupid enough to be out there. Heading away from the comfort of land in a storm is without a doubt the loneliest feeling in the world. All you want is a safe harbour, other boats, other people, but what you need is sea space. As quickly as it had come, the squall passed. I apologised to Isean and started to cry.

I felt extremely stupid and utterly alone. I had no right to be out here, putting myself and my boat in such danger. It was completely irresponsible. I’d been lucky. Isean’s substantial weight and stability had kept us safe. But, even in those moments of shock and remorse, I knew I would recover myself. My mistake had been so obvious, the consequences so terrifying, I wouldn’t repeat it. It was another learning experience. I’d be off again first thing in the morning, but now it was time to stop. I sniffed pathetically all the way back to Fuengirola.

An hour later, feeling very sorry for myself, we limped into the little port and dropped anchor in a flat-calm sea. People strolled the promenade with ice-creams and sunbathed on loungers. The sun shone as if nothing had happened, mocking me. Still trembling an hour later, I went to bed with a cup of tea and a massive bar of chocolate. My second day in the Med and a perfect introduction to conditions there.

Extracted from The Half Bird by Susan Smillie

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Coordinates of elektrostal in degrees and decimal minutes, utm coordinates of elektrostal, geographic coordinate systems.

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Latitude varies from −90° to 90°. The latitude of the Equator is 0°; the latitude of the South Pole is −90°; the latitude of the North Pole is 90°. Positive latitude values correspond to the geographic locations north of the Equator (abbrev. N). Negative latitude values correspond to the geographic locations south of the Equator (abbrev. S).

Longitude is counted from the prime meridian ( IERS Reference Meridian for WGS 84) and varies from −180° to 180°. Positive longitude values correspond to the geographic locations east of the prime meridian (abbrev. E). Negative longitude values correspond to the geographic locations west of the prime meridian (abbrev. W).

UTM or Universal Transverse Mercator coordinate system divides the Earth’s surface into 60 longitudinal zones. The coordinates of a location within each zone are defined as a planar coordinate pair related to the intersection of the equator and the zone’s central meridian, and measured in meters.

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Elektrostal , Moscow Oblast, Russia

For the first time Rosatom Fuel Division supplied fresh nuclear fuel to the world’s only floating nuclear cogeneration plant in the Arctic

The fuel was supplied to the northernmost town of Russia along the Northern Sea Route.

The first in the history of the power plant refueling, that is, the replacement of spent nuclear fuel with fresh one, is planned to begin before 2024. The manufacturer of nuclear fuel for all Russian nuclear icebreakers, as well as the Akademik Lomonosov FNPP, is Machinery Manufacturing Plant, Joint-Stock Company (MSZ JSC), a company of Rosatom Fuel Company TVEL that is based in Elektrostal, Moscow Region.

The FNPP includes two KLT-40S reactors of the icebreaking type. Unlike convenient ground-based large reactors (that require partial replacement of fuel rods once every 12-18 months), in the case of these reactors, the refueling takes place once every few years and includes unloading of the entire reactor core and loading of fresh fuel into the reactor.

The cores of KLT-40 reactors of the Akademik Lomonosov floating power unit have a number of advantages compared to the reference ones: a cassette core was used for the first time in the history of the unit, which made it possible to increase the fuel energy resource to 3-3.5 years between refuelings, and also reduce the fuel component of the electricity cost by one and a half times. The FNPP operating experience formed the basis for the designs of reactors for nuclear icebreakers of the newest series 22220. Three such icebreakers have been launched by now.

For the first time the power units of the Akademik Lomonosov floating nuclear power plant were connected to the grid in December 2019, and put into commercial operation in May 2020. The supply of nuclear fuel from Elektrostal to Pevek and its loading into the second reactor is planned for 2024. The total power of the Akademik Lomonosov FNPP, supplied to the coastal grid of Pevek without thermal energy consumption on shore, is about 76 MW, being about 44 MW in the maximum thermal power supply mode. The FNPP generated 194 million kWh according to the results of 2023. The population of Pevek is just a little more than 4 thousand, while the FNPP has a potential for supplying electricity to a city with a population of up to 100 thousand people. After the FNPP commissioning two goals were achieved. These include first of all the replacement of the retiring capacities of the Bilibino NPP, which has been operating since 1974, as well as the Chaunskaya TPP, which has already been operating for more than 70 years. Secondly, energy is supplied to the main mining companies in western Chukotka in the Chaun-Bilibino energy hub a large ore and metal cluster, including gold mining companies and projects related to the development of the Baimsk ore zone. In September 2023, a 110 kilovolt power transmission line with a length of 490 kilometers was put into operation, connecting the towns of Pevek and Bilibino. The line increased the reliability of energy supply from the FNPP to both Bilibino consumers and mining companies, the largest of which is the Baimsky GOK. The comprehensive development of the Russian Arctic is a national strategic priority. To increase the NSR traffic is of paramount importance for accomplishment of the tasks set in the field of cargo shipping. This logistics corridor is being developed due regular freight voyages, construction of new nuclear-powered icebreakers and modernization of the relevant infrastructure. Rosatom companies are actively involved in this work. Rosatom Fuel Company TVEL (Rosatom Fuel Division) includes companies fabricating nuclear fuel, converting and enriching uranium, manufacturing gas centrifuges, conducting researches and producing designs. As the only nuclear fuel supplier to Russian NPPs, TVEL supplies fuel for a total of 75 power reactors in 15 countries, for research reactors in nine countries, as well as for propulsion reactors of the Russian nuclear fleet. Every sixth power reactor in the world runs on TVEL fuel. Rosatom Fuel Division is the world’s largest producer of enriched uranium and the leader on the global stable isotope market. The Fuel Division is actively developing new businesses in chemistry, metallurgy, energy storage technologies, 3D printing, digital products, and decommissioning of nuclear facilities. TVEL also includes Rosatom integrators for additive technologies and electricity storage systems. Rosenergoatom, Joint-Stock Company is part of Rosatom Electric Power Division and one of the largest companies in the industry acting as an operator of nuclear power plants. It includes, as its branches, 11 operating NPPs, including the FNPP, the Scientific and Technical Center for Emergency Operations at NPPs, Design and Engineering as well as Technological companies. In total, 37 power units with a total installed capacity of over 29.5 GW are in operation at 11 nuclear power plants in Russia. Machinery Manufacturing Plant, Joint-Stock Company (MSZ JSC, Elektrostal) is one of the world’s largest manufacturers of fuel for nuclear power plants. The company produces fuel assemblies for VVER-440, VVER-1000, RBMK-1000, BN-600,800, VK-50, EGP-6; powders and fuel pellets intended for supply to foreign customers. It also produces nuclear fuel for research reactors. The plant belongs to the TVEL Fuel Company of Rosatom.

Rosatom obtained a license for the first land-based SMR in Russia

On April 21, Rosenergoatom obtained a license issued by Rostekhnadzor to construct the Yakutsk land-based SMR in the Ust-Yansky District of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia).

ROSATOM and FEDC agree to cooperate in the construction of Russia's first onshore SNPP

ROSATOM and FEDC have signed a cooperation agreement to build Russia's first onshore SNPP in Yakutia.

Rosatom develops nuclear fuel for modernized floating power units

Rosatom has completed the development of nuclear fuel for the RITM-200S small modular reactor designed for the upgraded floating power units.

Strange Glow Over Moscow Skies Triggers Panic as Explosions Reported

B right flashes lit up the night sky in southern Moscow in the early hours of Thursday morning, new footage appears to show, following reports of an explosion at an electrical substation on the outskirts of the city.

Video snippets circulating on Russian-language Telegram channels show a series of flashes on the horizon of a cloudy night sky, momentarily turning the sky a number of different colors. In a clip shared by Russian outlet MSK1.ru, smoke can be seen rising from a building during the flashes lighting up the scene.

Newsweek was unable to independently verify the details of the video clips, including when and where it was filmed. The Russian Ministry of Emergency situations has been contacted via email.

Several Russian Telegram accounts said early on Thursday that residents of southern Moscow reported an explosion and a fire breaking out at an electrical substation in the Leninsky district, southeast of central Moscow.

Local authorities in the Leninsky district told Russian outlet RBC that the explosion had happened in the village of Molokovo. "All vital facilities are operating as normal," Leninsky district officials told the outlet.

The incident at the substation in Molokovo took place just before 2 a.m. local time, MSK1.ru reported.

Messages published by the ASTRA Telegram account, run by independent Russian journalists, appear to show residents close to the substation panicking as they question the bright flashes in the sky. One local resident describes seeing the bright light before losing access to electricity, with another calling the incident a "nightmare."

More than 10 villages and towns in the southeast of Moscow lost access to electricity, the ASTRA Telegram account also reported. The town of Lytkarino to the southeast of Moscow, lost electricity, wrote the eastern European-based independent outlet, Meduza.

Outages were reported in the southern Domodedovo area of the city, according to another Russian outlet, as well as power failures in western Moscow. Electricity was then restored to the areas, the Strana.ua outlet reported.

The cause of the reported explosion is not known. A Telegram account aggregating news for the Lytkarino area described the incident as "an ordinary accident at a substation."

The MSK1.ru outlet quoted a local resident who speculated that a drone may have been responsible for the explosion, but no other Russian source reported this as a possible cause.

Ukraine has repeatedly targeted Moscow with long-range aerial drones in recent months, including a dramatic wave of strikes in late May.

On Sunday, Moscow Mayor Sergei Sobyanin said the region's air defense systems had intercepted an aerial drone over the city of Elektrostal, to the east of Moscow. No damage or casualties were reported, he said.

The previous day, Russian air defenses detected and shot down another drone flying over the Bogorodsky district, northeast of central Moscow, Sobyanin said.

There is currently no evidence that an aerial drone was responsible for the reported overnight explosion at the electrical substation in southern Moscow.

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