cl 16 sailboat rigging manual

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CL 16 is a 16 ′ 0 ″ / 4.9 m monohull sailboat designed by Ian Proctor/Graham Dodd / George Blanchard and built by C&L Boatworks starting in 1967.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Based on the Ian Proctor designed WAYFARER. CL = Croce & Lighthouse.

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Engineering:CL 16

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The CL 16 , or CL16 , is a Canadian sailing dinghy that was designed by Ian Proctor, Graham Dodd and George Blanchard, as a cruiser and daysailer, and first built in 1968. [1] [2] [3]

The CL 16 is a development of Proctor's 1957 Wayfarer design and is identical in dimensions and shape, with differences only in interior details. Proctor considers it an unauthorized copy. [1] [4] [5]

• 1 Production
• 3 Operational history
• 5 References
• 6 External links

The design has been built by C&L Boatworks since 1968 in Belleville, Ontario and more recently in Fort Erie, Ontario, Canada . It remains in production. [1] [6] [3] [7]

Henry Croce and Ken Lofthouse of Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia started as importers of the wooden Wayfarer, until a labour strike in the UK cut off the supply. They had the boat adapted for fibreglass construction and started their own production line as C&L. Ian Proctor considered it an unauthorized copy of the Wayfarer. [5] [8]

The CL 16 is a recreational sailboat , built predominantly of fibreglass, with mahogany wood trim. It has double-chined ; planing hull; a fractional sloop rig; a raked stem; a plumb transom ; a transom-hung, kick-up, fibreglass rudder with an aluminum head, controlled by a tiller and a retractable centreboard . Unusually for a dinghy the mainsail is equipped with one set of reefing points. The boat displaces 365 lb (166 kg). [1] [3]

The boat has a draft of 3.83 ft (1.17 m) with the centreboard extended and 0.67 ft (0.20 m) with it retracted, allowing beaching or ground transportation on a trailer . [1]

A motor bracket is a factory option, to allow the boat to be fitted with a small outboard motor for docking and manoeuvring. [1] [3]

The boat is designed to be sailed by a crew of two, but can accommodate up to six people. [3]

For sailing the design may be equipped with a spinnaker and a trapeze. [3]

Operational history

In a review the Outer Harbour Centreboard Club wrote:

[T]he 16 has proven itself to be a remarkable dinghy that is able to perform as well as it can last. Every 16 was built to last for the long haul; hand laid up using the best materials, outfitted with high quality durable rigging and fittings and backed by the builder ... This unchanged design is the 16's greatest selling point – a product that has lasted more than 40 years relatively unchanged obviously is the right design and allows for all CL16s no matter what year to compete and its sailors are able to talk about every boat with out worrying. The continuity of the 16 assures resale value should that time come. The present day 16 is an attractive well mannered proper little sailboat. [9]

• List of sailing boat types
• ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.5 McArthur, Bruce (2020). "CL 16 sailboat" . sailboatdata.com . https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cl-16 .  
• ↑ McArthur, Bruce (2021). "Ian Proctor 1918 - 1992" . sailboatdata.com . https://sailboatdata.com/designer/proctor-ian .  
• ↑ 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 C&L Boatworks (2018). "CL 16" . clboatworks.com . http://www.clboatworks.com/cl16.htm .  
• ↑ McArthur, Bruce (2021). "Wayfarer" . sailboatdata.com . https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/wayfarer .  
• ↑ 5.0 5.1 Proctor, Ian (June 1968). "Letter to the Canadian Wayfarer Association" . wayfarer-canada.org . http://wayfarer-canada.org/Wayfarer.history/old.newsletters/6806.html .  
• ↑ McArthur, Bruce (2021). "C&L Boatworks" . sailboatdata.com . https://sailboatdata.com/builder/cl-boatworks .  
• ↑ C&L Boatworks (2018). "Boatyard Information" . clboatworks.com . http://www.clboatworks.com/store_information.htm .  
• ↑ Adams, Andy. "C & L Boatworks - Everything That’s Old Is New Again!" . Boating Industry Canada . https://boatingindustry.ca/current-news/3335-cal-boatworks-everything-thats-old-is-new-again .  
• ↑ Outer Harbour Centreboard Club. "CL 14/16 – built to last for the long haul" . sailohcc.ca . http://www.sailohcc.ca/sailboats/cl-1416/ .  

External links

• Video: CL-16 sailing on Lake Ontario 2016
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Not sure how to rig your boat or looking to brush up on a certain part of your rigging? Check out these Rigging Guides with photos and tips for rigging a variety of small sailboats. Available as PDF downloads for ease of use.

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Owners Manual search

• Thread starter RBand
• Start date Aug 14, 2023
• Forums for All Owners
• Parts Search

Where can I find an owners manual for a Cl 14? Need rigging instructions, etc. Looks to be the same set up as the Cl 16, but not sure.  

Are you sure it is not the 15? I found this one https://sailseas.com/Bergen/docs/Coronado%2015%20Owners%20Manual.pdf Also I did an image search on Coronado 14 sailboats and found a bunch of pics. that show the rigging rather clearly.  

rgranger said: Are you sure it is not the 15? I found this one https://sailseas.com/Bergen/docs/Coronado%2015%20Owners%20Manual.pdf Also I did an image search on Coronado 14 sailboats and found a bunch of pics. that show the rigging rather clearly. Click to expand

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• RS SAILING Manuals
• Owner's manual

RS SAILING RS Cat 16 Owner's Manual

• Owner's manual (362 pages)
• page of 57 Go / 57

Table of Contents

1 introduction, 2 commissioning.

• Preparation

3 Components

• Additional Components - S and XL

5 Sailing Hints

• Introduction
• Leaving the Beach
• Sailing Close-Hauled and Tacking 3
• Sailing Downwind and Gybing
• Using the Gennaker

6 Maintenance

• Fixtures and Fittings
• Three Essential Knots
• Knot-On-Knot
• Figure of Eight
• How to Rig a Mast-Head Float

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Summary of Contents for RS SAILING RS Cat 16

• Page 1 Owner’s Manual...

Page 2: Table Of Contents

Page 3: introduction, page 4: commissioning.

• Page 5 3.1 COMPONENTS LIST Hulls x 2 Rear beam x 1 Front beam x 1 Bolt x 2 Bolt x 2 Bolt x 2 Bolt x 2 Large metal washers x 8 Large nylon washers x 4 Small nylon washers x 8 Tramp set x 1 Side tramp ties x 1 Long 6mm batten x 1...
• Page 6 3.1 COMPONENTS LIST Mast x 1 Toestrap ties x1 Forestay line x 1 Rear tramp ties x 1 Downhaul line x 1 Downhaul blocks x 2 Mainsheet blocks x 2 Mainsheet hook x 1 Mainsheet x 1 Com bar x 1 Tiller extension x 1 Foil set x 1 Instruction manual x 1...

Page 7: Additional Components - S And Xl

• Page 8 3.3 ADDITIONAL COMPONENTS - XL ONLY Spinnaker halyard x 1 Block ties x 2 Spinnaker sheet turning block x 2 Spinnaker halyard turning block x 3 Ratchet block x 2 Striker wires for XL Spinnaker chute bar x 1 Spinnaker sheet x 1 Tack line x 1 Chute x 1 Front chute tie x 1...

Page 9: Hull

• Page 10 ASSEMBLY - HULLS • Using screwdriver, remove all 4 screws. • Remove all 4 end caps from beams. • Use mm spanner. • Add bolt into outboard hole with two nylon washers and one metal washer. • Add bolt into outboard hole with metal and nylon washer. DON’T TIGHTEN BOLTS UNTIL ALL BEAMS ARE CONNECTED MAKE SURE TRAVELLER TRACK FACES FORWARDS large washer...
• Page 11 ASSEMBLY - HULLS DON’T TIGHTEN BOLTS UNTIL ALL BEAMS ARE CONNECTED MAKE SURE IB EYELETS ARE FACING AFT • Add bolt into outboard hole with nylon washer. • Add bolt into outboard hole with metal and nylon washer. • Lift racks up and place second hull under beams. •...
• Page 12 4.1 ASSEMBLY - HULLS 8mm battens 6mm battens • Insert tramp into lower sail track • Insert batten (you might need to use an 8mm batten to push batten through) MAKE SURE THE BATTEN IS FULLY INSERTED THROUGH THE TRAMP POCKET. •...
• Page 13 4.1 ASSEMBLY - HULLS • Pass the tramp tie through the tramp cringle. • Pass the tramp tie through the eyelet. • Tie with a bowline through the cringle. • Repeat on other side. • Pass rope through cringle. • Pass rope through eyelet. •...
• Page 14 4.1 ASSEMBLY - HULLS Use one of the rear tramp ties. Start from cleat A. • Through cringle 1 • Around 2 • Around 1 • Around 2 • Around 3 - 12 • Through cleat C. MAKE SURE BOTH TAILS ARE EQUAL.
• Page 15 4.1 ASSEMBLY - HULLS Use one of the rear tramp ties. Start from cleat D. • Through cringle 1 • Around 2 • Around 1 • Around 2 • Around 3 - 12 • Through cleat B. MAKE SURE BOTH TAILS ARE EQUAL. •...
• Page 16 4.1 ASSEMBLY - HULLS • Tidy up the tails by passing them through the cringle and into the velcro pocket. • Tie the righting line around the mast step with a bowline. • The other end goes into the righting line pocket under the tramp. YOU MUST HAVE A RIGHTING LINE BEFORE GOING SAILING.
• Page 17 4.1 ASSEMBLY - HULLS • Tie toestrap ropes through toestraps and knot through eyelet. • Repeat on other side BEFORE ADDING END CAPS • Push elastic through rear hole of end cap on front beam. • Feed elastic through front beam and out through rear hole of other end cap.
• Page 18 ASSEMBLY - HULLS • Add striker bar. Club S AND XL SPEC ONLY • Add jib blocks to front beam.
• Page 19 4.1 ASSEMBLY - HULLS XL SPEC ONLY • remove plastic inserts from front beam. • Undo spinlock from base. • Screw spinlock cleat to front beam.

Page 20: Mast

• Page 21 4.2 ASSEMBLY - MAST • Lay mast on boat • Follow all these steps before erecting the mast XL MODEL ONLY • Tie the spinnaker halyard strop. • Add the swivel block to the halyard strop • Rig spinnaker halyard •...
• Page 22 4.2 ASSEMBLY - MAST • Connect shroud verniers to eye bolt. • On XL add shackle and ratchet block to eye bolt as you connect the vernier. • Tighten with pliers. • Add jib halyard (S and XL only). • Add forestay tie. TAPE ALL SPLIT RINGS.
• Page 23 4.2 ASSEMBLY - MAST • Insert pin through mast step • Use forestay, spinnaker halyard, or trapeze wires to pull mast up. DON’T DO THIS NEAR OVERHEAD POWER LINES. DON’T DO THIS IN WINDY CONDITIONS. • Attach forestay PULL FORESTAY TENSION TIGHT Club...
• Page 24 4.2 ASSEMBLY - MAST S AND XL ONLY • Add furler line.

Page 25: Sails 2

• Page 26 4.3 ASSEMBLY - SAILS • Hoist the mainsail • Attach the downhaul. • Tidy the tails of ropes into the velcro pocket. • Attach mainsheet. • Tie tail of mainsheet to traveller line.
• Page 27 4.3 ASSEMBLY - SAILS S AND XL ONLY • Attach the jib halyard. • Attach the hanks onto the forestay and hoist jib by pulling on halyard. S AND XL ONLY • Add tack line through furler and back through cleat. •...

Page 28: Spinnaker

• Page 29 4.4 ASSEMBLY - SPINNAKER • Tie turning blocks to tramp. • Shackle downhaul block to inboard tang. • Use elastic takeaway from rear starboard toe strap. • Tie end of bag with rear bag tie using a hitch and stopper knot.
• Page 30 4.4 ASSEMBLY - SPINNAKER Tight around eye • Attach spinnaker chute using rope bobbles. Goes inside velcro flap • Pull tight so bottom of chute is against the pole. • All rope tails to be cut off. Goes inside velcro flap Through eyelet •...
• Page 31 4.4 ASSEMBLY - SPINNAKER • Add spinnaker sheet. • Tidy slack into pocket.

Page 32: Foils

• Page 33 4.5 ASSEMBLY - FOILS...

Page 34: Sailing Hints

Page 35: leaving the beach, page 36: sailing close-hauled and tacking 3, page 37: sailing downwind and gybing.

• Page 38 with the gennaker hoisted. For the best effect, the gennaker sheet should always be eased as far as possible, so that the luff is just on the point of curling. Gybing with the gennaker is fairly straightforward. Like the jib, it should be pulled across at the same time as the mainsail comes across.

Page 39: Reefing

Page 40: maintenance.

• Page 41 The joy of owning an RS Cat 16 is that it is very hard wearing, and any dents and scratches it receives will not affect the structural integrity of the hull.

Page 42: Foil Care

Page 43: sail care, page 44: warranty, page 45: bowline, page 46: knot-on-knot, page 47: how to rig a mast-head float, page 48: glossary.

• Page 49 Buoy Floating object attached to the bottom of sea – used variously for navigation,mooring, and to mark out a race course Buoyancy Aid Helps you to stay afloat if you fall in the water Buoyancy Compartment Water-tight compartment in the hull that maintains buoyancy Burgee Small flag at the top of the mast to show wind direction Capsize...
• Page 50 Draught The depth of the vessel below the surface Ease To ‘ease sheets’ means to let the sail out gently Fairlead A pulley block used to guide a rope to avoid chafing Foils The daggerboard and the rudder Foot The bottom edge of a sail Fore Towards the front of the boat Forestay...
• Page 51 ‘Head to Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from, causing the sails to flap ‘Heave to’ To stop the boat by easing the main sheet and backing the jib Heel A boat ‘heels’ when it leans over due to the sideways force of the wind Helm/Helmsman The person who steers the boat, or another name for the tiller...
• Page 52 Latitude Imaginary lines running parallel round the globe from east to west. They help you measure position and distance on a chart. Leech The back edge of the sail Leeward The part of the boat furthest away from the direction in which the wind is blowing Leeway The amount of sideways drift caused by the wind...
• Page 53 Mast Lower Section The bottom section of a two-piece mast Mast Step The fitting on the deck that the mast fits into Mast Top Section The top section of a two-piece mast Meteorology The study of weather forecasting Moor To tie the boat to a fixed object Mylar A brand of strong, thin, polyester film used to make racing sails National Sailing Federation Body that governs sailing in a nation.
• Page 54 Reef To make the sails smaller in strong winds Retaining Pin On a trolley, to hold the launching trolley to the road base Road Base A trolley that you place your boat and launching trolley upon to trail behind a vehicle Rowlocks U shaped fittings th at fix onto the gunwale and holds your oars in position while rowing...
• Page 55 Slider Sliding fitting on the boom to which the gnav bar is attached Soundings The numbers on a chart showing depth Spars The poles, usually carbon or aluminium, to which the sail is attached Spreaders Metal fittings attached to the mast which hold the shrouds out Spring Tide The tides with the biggest range and strongest currents Starboard.
• Page 56 ‘Under Weigh’ A term derived from the act of ‘weighing’ anchor, meaning to be in motion Upwind To sail against the direction in which the wind is blowing Wetsuit Neoprene sailing suit designed to keep you warm when wet Windward The part of the boat closest to the direction in which the wind is blowing...

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Setting up my precision 16

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Fix the forestay ASAP! The broken strands not only weaken the forestay, but they are called "meathooks" for a reason. The clip is probably meant to secure the boom to the backstay, possibly with another line. Yes, you may need to cleat that line to hold the centerboard down. Many center (and rudder) boards are buoyant, and require the line to keep them in the water. Get a chart, or chart plotter app, and avoid the shallows, so that you don't endanger the centerboard. Because the business that produced the Precision line of boats is still in business, you can contact them for model specific support.  

Thanks for the reply Ya I use navionics on my phone when I take the Jon boat out gigging, will do the same on the sailboat. There is no back stay and doesn't appear there was ever a place for one. The shrouds are aft of the mast and seem to make the triangle plenty strong to hold the mast with just 3 cables. I guess I should contact precision n see what kind of info I can get on the boat setup from them.  

On my Stuart Mariner (19ft), the CB pennant and cam cleat holds the centerboard up, not down. Most centerboards are weighted to drop on their own, and the pennant is used to raise it. The cleat allows you to tie it off in the up position or any partially down position. The CB will still kick up on striking an obstacle. Tying off the CB in the up position is needed for trailering or beaching, and the partially up position for sailing in shallow water. Swing keels, which are very heavy centerboards (hundreds of pounds) generally made of cast iron, sometimes need to fixed in the down position to prevent damage to the boat when sailing. Fred W Stuart Mariner #4133 Sweet P Yeopim Creek on the north shore of Albemarle Sound  

I agree that the cleat is more likely to hold the CB UP . There is frequently a cleat on the rudder, to hold it down.  

There's actually 2 ropes and 2 holes. There's one with a guide that goes further down the centerboard. That obviously holds it up. This other one is on the top of the centerboard above the deck so there's no way it could hold the centerboard up, it seems it could only hold it down. Will take a pic tomorrow.  

Hi Dalobstah. You actually have a furling headsail. Congrats on that. The damage to the foresail is from he way the stay has been lowered or stowed for trailering. It is worth keeping that is mind in the future. More photos of your centerboard and rudder will help us understand how they are held in place. However, one of the benefits of having the boat out in the yard is that you can fiddle with stuff till you get it working just right. For a bit of inspiration, here are some vids of how boats like yours are used in Australia and by the famous Roger in France. Lots a fun. gary  

Attachments

View attachment 145941 So we sailed a local little lake today for our maiden voyage… it went great! My son was amazed by how fast we sailed in light winds compared to his optimists! Love the boat and absolutely ready to go bigger after we replace that forestay  

suggest you to check out the precisionboatworks.com website. Look at the Precision 15 owners manual there. Not sure of the differences, but probably they are similar. I owned a P-15 some years ago and had great fun with it. Enjoy yours!  

Also, happy to answer any questions you might have.  

You can clip the main halyard on the boom end to support the boom.  

Awesome thanks man. Ya I still haven’t figured out supporting the boom but it doesn’t seem to mind just being suspended by the sail. The center board stays down just fine. the only issues we’ve still been having is once we get over about 5kn the rudder will kick up a bit. I don’t see anyway to lock it down but maybe just tightening the bolt would help? then stepping and lowering the mast hasn’t been as easy as I’d like either. There’s gotta be a better trick to that that I haven’t figured out.  

A trick with some dinghies when stepping the mast is to lay them on their side. Fitting the mast and stays on a horizontal plane is easier. Not All dinghies though.  

"then stepping and lowering the mast hasn’t been as easy as I’d like either. There’s gotta be a better trick to that that I haven’t figured out." On the Mariners (25ft mast on a 19ft boat), stepping (or lowering) the mast single handed is challenging. For my initial launch (boat new to me last March), I attached the jib halyard to the trailer winch strap. That worked, but there's a scary point where the mast can sway sideways before the shrouds tighten up. To raise/lower the mast with the boat in the water, several people add a gin pole on the forward side of the mast, mounting a trailer winch on the gin pole. Again, preventing side sway while the mast is part way up is the challenge. To prevent the side sway, some have added electrical conduit A-frame which sits on the jib sheet blocks and slides in the mainsail luff slot. I am going to try some baby stays first using 5/16" line rigged to mast tangs and flush padeyes on deck in line with the mast step. By being in line with the mast step, I'm hoping the baby stays will be tight enough to check any sway until the shrouds take over. On the Mariner, the shroud chain plates are aft of the mast a decent amount, the backstay is almost an unnecessary afterthought except for depowering the 3/4 rig. But this means the shrouds are pretty slack until the mast is well above the crutch. Hopefully this provides some ideas. Fred W Stuart Mariner #4133 Sweet P Yeopim Creek, NC north side of Albemarle Sound between Edenton and Hertford  

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